Just did mine yesterday. Using the syringe. If I had a shop and all my tools set properly in place, I would’ve had it done much sooner. Love y’all’s videos.
Another great video and very informative. I'm always learning something new about my "old" XB9R (first year) and I've never known anyone to do the air gap measurement which makes all the sense in the world now that you've shown it to us. Thank you as always and good health and a great weekend to all! :)
It is. To adjust the cap (find the right height) just turn it down by hand till you feel the resistance of the adjuster pushrod. Now you lock it with the counter nut.
Thanks for Posting. I just purchased a 2008 Buell Ulyssess. Then I had to purchase a used owners manual . 2006 is the closest I could find. I did purchase the correct Shop Manual in PDF. Lot's of info in there but all it says is use Genuine Harley Davidson Fork Oil. It would not tell what weight fork oil to use. I think I will go with 7.5 wt I installed Ohlin Cartridges in my Yamaha FZ-07 forks. Ohlins instructions are terrible as are their illustrations. Manual said use only Ohlin Fork Oil. I spent considerable time to figure out that Ohlin normally uses 5 WT Stock Yamaha was 10 wt. Ohlin Fork Oil was $30.00 per Liter and Bel-Ray was $15.00 per Liter .. I used Bel-Ray fork oil. It looks like I am better off to order the proper tools before I attempt this and today I have to change the front wheel so it would have been a perfect time to do it .
@@NCCRSweden Is this a Stupid question? Can I change the shock oil with out replacing the fork seals that don't leak? I would prefer to take all the parts out of the fork tube and wash all the parts in solvent.. Non rubber parts that is. I also have a Yamaha FZ-07 in 2019 I hit a Deere at 90 kph .. It bent my fork tubes quite badly. A whole complete new fork didn't cost a lot more than a new fork tube. Thus I bought two new Forks for $208.00 each then I bought the Ohlin Cartridge Kit for $650.00 .. I got charged twice for springs .. the price is for a pair not for one spring. On a non inverted fork .. I don't think I had to replace the new fork seals in the new forks but I really can't remember that long ago.
@@NCCRSweden My Front tire is worn much more on the left side. It's harder it initiate a turn one way than the other. At first I thought the Forks are bent a bit. Then I decided that maybe you have to fight the inertia of one large rotor on one side of the front wheel. The rear tire is worn more on the right side. When I install a new tire today .. I will loose the fork pinch bolts and try to see if anything is bent or there is a load or pressure on the triple clamps. I just bought the bike. A Previous owner may have ran the bike into the back bumper of a car and bent something. When I bought the bike with old badly worn tires the air pressure was way too high in the tires and handling was very sketchy. Lower the air pressure to maybe 34 PSI in the front tires seems to help the handling on uneven pavement ect a lot . Today I will install a Micheline Road Pilot VI GT tire.
@@mikeskidmore6754 you can of course replace the oil without changing the seals. You can even remove the inner parts without separating the the inner from the outer tube. Just make sure that the movement between the tubes is not more than the usual stroke.
@@mikeskidmore6754 more wear on the left can be the result of the road profile. Front left, rear right might be a sign for a mid alignment. Hard to say from the distance.
Hello from Canada! Well done! You are now in my top learning video. Question for you: I’m planning to maintenance my forks on my XB12SS 2009 and How I can find out if my forks spring need to be replace? Thanks in advance! Pat.
Thanks and hello from Sweden. A fork spring is a very long lasting component, usually 100.000 km at least before they getting a fatigue problem. Another question would be, if the spring match your weight / riding style. To find out if the spring is right for you, you measure the Sag. We will do as one of the next videos a tutorial how to set up and measure the suspension.
@@NCCRSweden Thanks for that quick reply! Good point! I’m 6 feet 200 pounds. My suspension was set by a pro 2 years ago. When I do aggressive cornering and tail braking, my front end deep dive to quickly! The bike have 25 000km and I’m the 3rd owner. That’s why I will do a forks maintenance to make sur I have the right oil qty. By experience, do you know if the original Buell spring should work for my size? And if I need to get proper size spring, Hyperpro or Wilber? Thanks, Pat.
It’s of course always best to check on a used bike the fork regarding the oil level. We would recommend to start with an oil Level with a 120mm air chamber. Regarding the fork springs, we recommend the Wilbers Zero Friction. For your weight and sport riding style in country roads, we would recommend a 9,5 or 10 N/mm spring. Make sure when you order to get the right spring rate. Set it up with a /10 grade oil. Stock spring is somewhere under 8 N/mm.
@@NCCRSweden Thanks you so much to take time to guide me. Here in Canada, you are on your own when you have a Buell! HD dealer don’t want to see you (is not I want to see them to😜) and Buell is way less popular then Europe. So, almost no bike shop take the time for Buell! Thanks again and waiting for your next video on suspension adjusting. Take care! Pat.
Yeah the manual says always use Harley Davidson engine oil, fork oil, primary and transmission oil. It even tells you that you can use other oils with a minumum temperature viscosity graph to follow, but only temporerally, and that you should immidiately drain and refill it with HD oils as soon as possible. How is that for that world famous Harley Davidson marketing prowess. I like Mobil 1 synthestic 20w50 cause its always on sale at WalMart, Redline MTL 75W80 primary transmission gear oil cause it seems to shift nicer, and some Lucas 10 weight fork oil. But thats just me...
Oh and I almost forgot, be sure that its the V-Twin Mobil-1 20w50 variant... Not the regular Mobil 1 synthetic. Yes, there is a difference, ball bearings.
As more you tighten the cap down (in relation to the fork) as less turns your adjuster is able to fulfill. If you go too low, the valve already get pre pressure and you might have just 2 turns allover at the adjuster before it blocks. Other way around, if the cap it too high in relation to the valve, your adjuster can turn now more rounds like intended. Like 4 or 5 turn, what is of course wrong. Correct is what the fork manufacturer had set the fork and that’s usually between 2.5 to 3.5 turns between full Ofen and full closed.
the early design of the belt protection was very closed, but stones still found their way in. Unfortunately bnever found the way out again. That’s why you usually remove it.
Just did mine yesterday. Using the syringe. If I had a shop and all my tools set properly in place, I would’ve had it done much sooner. Love y’all’s videos.
Thanks for the informative video, I will be using this to fix my 2006 SCG.
Thanks for the video, I have the SCG model of XB12 and will be doing the forks at some point.
The best tutorial on line. Thankyou.
Terrific video. Thanks for going to the trouble to make it. Well done!
Thanks, glad you like it 🙂
Another great video and very informative. I'm always learning something new about my "old" XB9R (first year) and I've never known anyone to do the air gap measurement which makes all the sense in the world now that you've shown it to us. Thank you as always and good health and a great weekend to all! :)
Very good. Thank you.
I love your workshop videos! :) 🤝🏻
But I really need to point out the need of a new sound capture device/ microphone setup :) 👍🏻
Great job guys 😃🇸🇪
Thanks Christian, we already use an external Mike, but it seems we maybe need to get some head sets.
Makes it all look quite straightforward but I’m not quite clear on how you set the adjusters/fork caps?
It is. To adjust the cap (find the right height) just turn it down by hand till you feel the resistance of the adjuster pushrod. Now you lock it with the counter nut.
Good Work! I would be interested in how too lower my 03 xb9r Firebolt.
Drop us an email and we can discuss that. info@nccr.se
Thanks for Posting. I just purchased a 2008 Buell Ulyssess. Then I had to purchase a used owners manual . 2006 is the closest I could find.
I did purchase the correct Shop Manual in PDF. Lot's of info in there but all it says is use Genuine Harley Davidson Fork Oil. It would not tell what weight fork oil to use. I think I will go with 7.5 wt
I installed Ohlin Cartridges in my Yamaha FZ-07 forks. Ohlins instructions are terrible as are their illustrations. Manual said use only Ohlin Fork Oil. I spent considerable time to figure out that Ohlin normally uses 5 WT Stock Yamaha was 10 wt. Ohlin Fork Oil was $30.00 per Liter and Bel-Ray was $15.00 per Liter .. I used Bel-Ray fork oil.
It looks like I am better off to order the proper tools before I attempt this and today I have to change the front wheel so it would have been a perfect time to do it .
We use 7.5 on the Showa. Yes Öhlins are mostly set up with 5.
@@NCCRSweden Is this a Stupid question? Can I change the shock oil with out replacing the fork seals that don't leak?
I would prefer to take all the parts out of the fork tube and wash all the parts in solvent.. Non rubber parts that is.
I also have a Yamaha FZ-07 in 2019 I hit a Deere at 90 kph .. It bent my fork tubes quite badly. A whole complete new fork didn't cost a lot more than a new fork tube.
Thus I bought two new Forks for $208.00 each then I bought the Ohlin Cartridge Kit for $650.00 .. I got charged twice for springs .. the price is for a pair not for one spring.
On a non inverted fork .. I don't think I had to replace the new fork seals in the new forks but I really can't remember that long ago.
@@NCCRSweden My Front tire is worn much more on the left side. It's harder it initiate a turn one way than the other.
At first I thought the Forks are bent a bit. Then I decided that maybe you have to fight the inertia of one large rotor on one side of the front wheel. The rear tire is worn more on the right side.
When I install a new tire today .. I will loose the fork pinch bolts and try to see if anything is bent or there is a load or pressure on the triple clamps.
I just bought the bike. A Previous owner may have ran the bike into the back bumper of a car and bent something.
When I bought the bike with old badly worn tires the air pressure was way too high in the tires and handling was very sketchy. Lower the air pressure to maybe 34 PSI in the front tires seems to help the handling on uneven pavement ect a lot .
Today I will install a Micheline Road Pilot VI GT tire.
@@mikeskidmore6754 you can of course replace the oil without changing the seals. You can even remove the inner parts without separating the the inner from the outer tube. Just make sure that the movement between the tubes is not more than the usual stroke.
@@mikeskidmore6754 more wear on the left can be the result of the road profile. Front left, rear right might be a sign for a mid alignment. Hard to say from the distance.
Hello from Canada! Well done! You are now in my top learning video. Question for you: I’m planning to maintenance my forks on my XB12SS 2009 and How I can find out if my forks spring need to be replace?
Thanks in advance!
Pat.
Thanks and hello from Sweden.
A fork spring is a very long lasting component, usually 100.000 km at least before they getting a fatigue problem.
Another question would be, if the spring match your weight / riding style.
To find out if the spring is right for you, you measure the Sag. We will do as one of the next videos a tutorial how to set up and measure the suspension.
@@NCCRSweden Thanks for that quick reply! Good point! I’m 6 feet 200 pounds. My suspension was set by a pro 2 years ago. When I do aggressive cornering and tail braking, my front end deep dive to quickly! The bike have 25 000km and I’m the 3rd owner. That’s why I will do a forks maintenance to make sur I have the right oil qty. By experience, do you know if the original Buell spring should work for my size? And if I need to get proper size spring, Hyperpro or Wilber? Thanks,
Pat.
It’s of course always best to check on a used bike the fork regarding the oil level. We would recommend to start with an oil
Level with a 120mm air chamber.
Regarding the fork springs, we recommend the Wilbers Zero Friction. For your weight and sport riding style in country roads, we would recommend a 9,5 or 10 N/mm spring.
Make sure when you order to get the right spring rate. Set it up with a /10 grade oil.
Stock spring is somewhere under 8 N/mm.
@@NCCRSweden Thanks you so much to take time to guide me. Here in Canada, you are on your own when you have a Buell! HD dealer don’t want to see you (is not I want to see them to😜) and Buell is way less popular then Europe. So, almost no bike shop take the time for Buell! Thanks again and waiting for your next video on suspension adjusting.
Take care!
Pat.
Yeah the manual says always use Harley Davidson engine oil, fork oil, primary and transmission oil. It even tells you that you can use other oils with a minumum temperature viscosity graph to follow, but only temporerally, and that you should immidiately drain and refill it with HD oils as soon as possible. How is that for that world famous Harley Davidson marketing prowess. I like Mobil 1 synthestic 20w50 cause its always on sale at WalMart, Redline MTL 75W80 primary transmission gear oil cause it seems to shift nicer, and some Lucas 10 weight fork oil. But thats just me...
Oh and I almost forgot, be sure that its the V-Twin Mobil-1 20w50 variant... Not the regular Mobil 1 synthetic. Yes, there is a difference, ball bearings.
We use Redline ATF in all race primary
@ 37:52 is not very clearly explained.
As more you tighten the cap down (in relation to the fork) as less turns your adjuster is able to fulfill. If you go too low, the valve already get pre pressure and you might have just 2 turns allover at the adjuster before it blocks.
Other way around, if the cap it too high in relation to the valve, your adjuster can turn now more rounds like intended. Like 4 or 5 turn, what is of course wrong. Correct is what the fork manufacturer had set the fork and that’s usually between 2.5 to 3.5 turns between full Ofen and full closed.
@NCCRSweden Thank you for the clarification.
@NCCRSweden Why is it that everybody takes the belt guards off of these bikes.
the early design of the belt protection was very closed, but stones still found their way in. Unfortunately bnever found the way out again. That’s why you usually remove it.
@NCCRSweden ✅️ thank you!