Thank you Scotty and the SM team for maintaining our sanity for some of us that might be doing it tough… the original goal for the ute might be a distant memory but the education and entertainment is still worth it. I’m almost inspired to go out to the shed and do a bit!
Scotty the test you needed to do wasn't head to piston at TDC. The test you needed to do was valve to piston at TDC with the cam rocking (both intake and exhaust valves open. opposite cylinder on TDC compression), which means you needed one set of pushrods and rockers on and lash set (if solid). I prefer to do the test without a head gasket on and use that as the safety margin. Generally you would use a couple of light springs to better feel for any contact between the valve and the piston, but it isn't absolutely necessary if you are careful. Did you measure how far down the piston was from the deck? Rod stretch can leave piston witness marks on the quench area if it's not enough.
Don't bother wasting your time trying to get him to listen, it only falls on deaf ears. He has no respect for the opinions of internet experts, even if they know more than him.
@@wetsox278 I don't know if I would consider myself an "internet expert", just someone with significant engine building experience on engines from stock to race engines, and years working in a performance workshop. You can only offer advice based on your own personal experience, it is ultimately up to the content maker whether the choose to listen. I don't think Scotty is any different to many TH-camrs I have come across, they generally praise the stupid comments and totally ignore the ones offering sound advice. It's not just this channel it is all over TH-cam. You just have to accept that not every TH-camr is open minded enough to listen because they already know it all. Nothing you will say will ever change that. I offer advice hoping it will be listened to, but ultimately half expect it to be ignored because of the reason listed above. If you want to be heard, then probably TH-cam isn't the place for you.
Hay Scotty, I like to put a nut on any bolt I am cutting shorter. When I'm done cutting I can just spin the nut off and that cleans up the thread, saves any cross-threading grief when you go to use the bolt.
About to pick up a 1974 Mercedes 450SEL with a carby Holden 304 as a project car and watching you gives me so much motivation to get it and get started! Thanks Scotty!
I've been wrenching on Mopar since 1964. The standard oil pump on Chrysler V8 is already a high-volume oil pump. And you never need more than about 45 pounds of oil pressure. And you can get that just by adjusting the relief spring with shims. If you're going to go with a high RPM Motor 55 lb would be about your max.
High / standard volume oil pump. This is basically a hydraulic design problem with the real question being " How much oil pressure do we need at idle and max RPM ? " then working backwards from there. In short, high volume oil pumps are for worn engines that have low oil pressure at idle or engines that are purposely built with large bearing clearances / turbos that need lots of oil volume. If an engine needs a max of 5 units of oil volume per minute to achieve your target oil pressure at a given RPM, a pump that moves say 5.5 units at that RPM is enough. Any pump that moves more oil volume than the engine can accept is just burning HP , heating the oil and risking chewing off the drive gear. RE: Excess oil volume is bled back into the pan / pump inlet rather than going through the engine. Some newer engines use a variable volume oil pump that is computer controlled. This gives high volume at idle / low RPM and just enough volume at high RPM saving HP / fuel. I don't know for sure but this type of system leaves the possibility of increasing volume ( and as a result pressure ) when the engine sees high load. Esslinger ( big on Ford 4 cyl Lima engines in the US ) made / makes an external oil pressure regulator that gets " T " ed into the oil line between the pump and oil filter. The other end gets plumbed into the pan. The pressure regulator in the pump gets blocked as well. Some day I'll plumb this into the circuit and see how much oil gets bypassed. Here is an example of just enough oil volume. I've raced Formula Ford ( 1.6 4 cyl " Kent " engine that makes about 110 HP / 6,800 RPM max ) this uses a single stage scavenge and one pressure section. On the track it has 20 PSI and coming in after run at idle it has zero. Bearings come out looking just fine so adding a high volume pump in this case would only burn HP. While we are on the subject, it is critical to have an oil filter bypass otherwise cold oil can collapse the filter element. Chrysler / Ford old school V8's usually have this in the filter , Chevy in the filter adapter.
I run a high-volume pump with high bleed lifters even with a high-volume pump in my 73 340 using comp cams high tech lifters which sadly they no longer offer I still reach zero psi at an idle once the engine reaches operating temperature. They are collapsed under 3500 rpm and pump up at 3500 rpm and weren't recommended for street uses, but 32 years later she still runs just fine.
I know it's getting to you a little bit mate, just remember you are not just slapping a Chevy or Ford together here. You are crafting a Mopar! Dad is itching to hear it and so are we!
Been around a bit done a few 318s and a couple of 340s in my day, great engine but lets face it they’re just another American V8, all the tension specs, lifter adjustments and clearance’s are virtually the same as SB & BBC, Ford big and small blocks, so it’s just a matter of choice, because they’re all the same just a V8 with a different brand name, what makes a good V8 of any brand is the person who builds that motor if you get a bad engine builder you’ll have a bad engine. This is the first time I’ve watched carnage and this bloke obviously knows his way around a 318, I bet if you gave him a Ford or a Chev V8 he would build it with the same meticulous care because I doubt very much that he would slap anything together so to say he’s crafting a mopar like it was sent by God to save the world you will have to come to the realisation that it’s just another American V8
Great video Scotty, That engine is going to be mighty fine once it's finally in the engine bay. I'm really enjoying the build as it brings back a ton of memories.
Hey mate I thought some one would have commented. The reason the head came with the extra stud and told you to put it in that place is because the factory cast ones only have the one long one and that one is a short one on a factory head. Hope that makes sence of it. Cheers
Ever closer to turning the key Scotty, As an old bloke who had to learn the hard way a lot of what you show here I 'get' the frustration and yet I still learn stuff every episode. Sooooo Lockdown Wagooon next week huh...... Keeping her the VG Stud pattern or doing the later Stud pattern? Subframe extensions? Rack conversion? Chassis rail? Dart/VE front end conversion? And you just HAVE to paint it Mustard/Bahama Gold with an amusing take on the Pacer stripes AND add dingle ballz or Fuzzy Dice.....
Hey Scotty, great video. Just curious, those LA chrysler engines originally oil the rockers through the rocker shafts. The pushrods are solid and don't allow oil to run up them onto the rocker itself. I noticed the pushrods you used have oil holes up the center. Is there a chance that this engine will suffer low oil pressure because the pump is trying to oil the rockers up the pushrods as well as the rocker shaft?
Scotty mate, Keep up the great work, cant wait till she fires up and on the dyno, Plus when measuring the rocker arm bolts shaft lengths, ( instead of the tape measure) why not use the vernier, that's why it has the pole and not just the clamp to use for measuring. :)
That is going to be a great little engine Scotty... You did a bloody good job mate... Great to see you measure your pushrods not like old mate Corn Fed Boost when he built that V6 engine for Kevin the Commodore on Nugget Garage.
You need to grind your stud thread, holding stud at like a 70 degree angle from vertical , it wont burr over the threads and a nut will screw right on .
Really enjoying this, love the "this is not plug & play" so damn true, if you’re a mechanic in a dealership sure but when you’re building shit it’s never the case. Nice build the only thing I would have done different is gone with a roller cam instead but it’s Carnage 🤣
Pressure and volume of two separate issues one does not have anything to do with the other high pressure will blow up a filter high-volume just drives more oil but it does take more horsepower to drive high volume
Mopar Performance makes a cool stick-on timing tape that you apply to the balancer with high visibility markings right where they need to be. Part #P4529070AB. And a valve lash chart sticker for the 8-position method. Part #P4452989. Mancini has them both. Very handy at those 3AM trouble moments. Don't ask me how I know. Looking forward to seeing it come together and fire up.
Oil pressure is the oil that is not getting into the bearing and circulating around. It is better to have a larger amount of oil circulating around then it is to have heavy oil our high oil pressure. Large amounts of thin oil will lubricate better at high RPMs and less drag better horsepower 2. Full synthetic oil works best but it has to be changed a little more often than what they say because it gets saturated with its detergent a little sooner than what they claim. Hydrocarbons work their way into the oil in a high-performance situation quicker.
A high volume pump might be required if you run twin turbos and an external oil cooler as the drain off for the turbos and the cooler might reduce pressure too much especially if you’re running hydraulic lifters.
Any way i can get the cam part number, and the Edelbrock part number for the whole assembly. I live in Florida and I am trying to replicate what you're building
measured pushrods wrongly,because lifters didnt have any oill in them and they werent pumped up it would be totally collapsing the plunger in hydraulic lifter before the pushrod would be moving giving a false reading on length of pushrod.thats why you use very light checker springs.
How do you figure? If the cam was on the base circle, it wouldn't make any difference. Scotty was applying the smallest amount of load to the point where he was just feeling resistance on the pushrod. A typical hydraulic lifter even when completely empty has more spring resistive force in the lifter than that he was applying to the nut (solid is another story). Not a heck of a lot more, but more. So there was nothing wrong with what he did. Different story if he was trying to set them all that way, but why would he that would be a great way to damage everything from the cam to the rocker. Even then he mention priming the engine before running it, so as long as it gets a really lengthy oil pressurization before anything moves it should be fine. But nothing beats a few hours soaking in oil to fill them properly.
Very interesting video Scotty! There is more to building an engine than people think. Now they should know why it cost so much to have one built. Sorry to hear you guys are back in lockdown yet again!! Cheers from stalag Sydney 🇦🇺🦘🐨🍺🍺🍺🍺🐨🦘🇦🇺
Crumbs! Till you got to those studs I thought there wasn't going to be any trauma. That would have been disappointing, we expect entertainment on this channel Scotty!
No matter what has been done at a machine shop you should always thoroughly clean the block, heads & all parts than check everything done before assembly to make sure clearences are correct you are doing everything correctly
@@STREETMACHINETV Fair enough, what the specss,lease or what episode to watch. Bought back memories. Do you need to use the shims the alian the rockercsto the valve stem. I thought i had it sorted and using lass caps, getting the valves machined 0.080 shorter. no hard facing left and then had to hand grind; eveery collet and lash cap. Worst thing was, a few years latter, seen Comp Cams had all the parts, the smaller bits, need ed to do the job! A lot of love on me engine and I still have trouble. . i got some 1976 318 castings and they need attention, with the value tip placing.! All good, thanks for getting back to me, Cheers' adam.
Hey Scotty, you think every time your dads ute fights you and you take one step forward and two steps back that his sitting up there watching you saying that’s for every time you wouldn’t clean your room or walk the dog son? Great work as always mate I guess next episode might be a video on the the ******** wagon?
Good job Scotty what are the cam specs on this little terror ? Don’t want to put the mozz on ya I would have gone roller expensive yes but so is going through a fresh rebuild a second time ,too many horror stories with cam and lifters eating them selfs lately. While you had those lifters out I would have checked the bases just as a piece of mind there not flat from poor machining practices. Keep up the great work.!
Personal choice, but would've painted the heads, timing cover and water pump Hemi orange as well... + the intake. It would look "factory" (somewhat) ;)
Scotty your mate Scotty M. introduced a further lockdown so you could finish the 318 project)) you will need a pretty accurate centre for the front oil seal
Thx Scotty, awesome stuff appreciate the extra content as a budding valiant Charger restorer I look forward to this and the “ “ wagon, have a question regarding the brakes which model did they come off as they appear to be superior to the single pot caliper on the charger keep up the good work Kia kaha
Well done buddy you make it always look so easy lol 😂. Dad's Ute is coming on . Just wanted to know who's your camera man /woman 🤷 And this lockdown is creating so much time Loss and delays It's a pain in the ass 🙈 Can't wait for the next episode keep up the good work
Thank you Scotty and the SM team for maintaining our sanity for some of us that might be doing it tough… the original goal for the ute might be a distant memory but the education and entertainment is still worth it. I’m almost inspired to go out to the shed and do a bit!
I was about to write the same thing. These bloody lockdowns are a strain to say the least. Good to sit and zone out on these vids. Great work guys.
Well said.
And for everyone doing it tough, I hope you can draw some strength from the saying “hot rodding is not a plug n play business!”
Uncle Tony and Dulcich will be frothing, while they watch this. Awesome stuff
"Lockdown is Over!"
And....all of a sudden #6 lockdown starts. 🤦
Came to the comments just to post that
it's fine,
we might even let you Mexicans in to watch the grand final at optus
This Val is going to be a beast...
It's coming along nicely mate.
Hey Scotty can't wait to hear that sweet noise from that 318 love your work Mate
Scotty the test you needed to do wasn't head to piston at TDC. The test you needed to do was valve to piston at TDC with the cam rocking (both intake and exhaust valves open. opposite cylinder on TDC compression), which means you needed one set of pushrods and rockers on and lash set (if solid). I prefer to do the test without a head gasket on and use that as the safety margin. Generally you would use a couple of light springs to better feel for any contact between the valve and the piston, but it isn't absolutely necessary if you are careful. Did you measure how far down the piston was from the deck? Rod stretch can leave piston witness marks on the quench area if it's not enough.
this.
Don't bother wasting your time trying to get him to listen, it only falls on deaf ears. He has no respect for the opinions of internet experts, even if they know more than him.
@@wetsox278 I don't know if I would consider myself an "internet expert", just someone with significant engine building experience on engines from stock to race engines, and years working in a performance workshop. You can only offer advice based on your own personal experience, it is ultimately up to the content maker whether the choose to listen. I don't think Scotty is any different to many TH-camrs I have come across, they generally praise the stupid comments and totally ignore the ones offering sound advice. It's not just this channel it is all over TH-cam. You just have to accept that not every TH-camr is open minded enough to listen because they already know it all. Nothing you will say will ever change that. I offer advice hoping it will be listened to, but ultimately half expect it to be ignored because of the reason listed above. If you want to be heard, then probably TH-cam isn't the place for you.
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering I said something very similar a few videos ago. It would seem I am not the only one to notice it.
Hay Scotty, I like to put a nut on any bolt I am cutting shorter. When I'm done cutting I can just spin the nut off and that cleans up the thread, saves any cross-threading grief when you go to use the bolt.
318 mopar, one of the most underrated small blocks… Great little engine
Keep on doing your stuff, love it
OMG ! for easy little build scotty having a mare !!! hope your part of the world is sorting its self out soon !!!! love and hugs Jen xxxx
The engine is starting to look good - it’ll likely outshine the entire Ute 👌
Nice work, Scotty 👍
About to pick up a 1974 Mercedes 450SEL with a carby Holden 304 as a project car and watching you gives me so much motivation to get it and get started! Thanks Scotty!
Looking great mate. Thanks for showing us again, a ground up rebuild. Very informative. Cheers
I've been wrenching on Mopar since 1964. The standard oil pump on Chrysler V8 is already a high-volume oil pump. And you never need more than about 45 pounds of oil pressure. And you can get that just by adjusting the relief spring with shims. If you're going to go with a high RPM Motor 55 lb would be about your max.
It's a year later, and the standard volume pump has proven to be plenty
Scotty broke his contract condition, there was no shifter used in this episode!
Yeah......surely ya could of used the big gun shifter to at least turn the crank bolt just once!
Thanks Scotty and SM team. Great to get our mind off lockdown 6.0 here in Melbourne. 😁🍻
Scotty I think you dad would proud of this build. You have really. Taken your time and patience. And built this right. Looks good mate 👍😉
Nice to see how it come together i learn alot as I normaly make 4 bangers. I look forward to hear it start. Thanks Scotty.
High / standard volume oil pump. This is basically a hydraulic design problem with the real question being " How much oil pressure do we need at idle and max RPM ? " then working backwards from there.
In short, high volume oil pumps are for worn engines that have low oil pressure at idle or engines that are purposely built with large bearing clearances / turbos that need lots of oil volume.
If an engine needs a max of 5 units of oil volume per minute to achieve your target oil pressure at a given RPM, a pump that moves say 5.5 units at that RPM is enough. Any pump that moves more oil volume than the engine can accept is just burning HP , heating the oil and risking chewing off the drive gear. RE: Excess oil volume is bled back into the pan / pump inlet rather than going through the engine.
Some newer engines use a variable volume oil pump that is computer controlled. This gives high volume at idle / low RPM and just enough volume at high RPM saving HP / fuel. I don't know for sure but this type of system leaves the possibility of increasing volume ( and as a result pressure ) when the engine sees high load.
Esslinger ( big on Ford 4 cyl Lima engines in the US ) made / makes an external oil pressure regulator that gets " T " ed into the oil line between the pump and oil filter. The other end gets plumbed into the pan. The pressure regulator in the pump gets blocked as well. Some day I'll plumb this into the circuit and see how much oil gets bypassed.
Here is an example of just enough oil volume. I've raced Formula Ford ( 1.6 4 cyl " Kent " engine that makes about 110 HP / 6,800 RPM max ) this uses a single stage scavenge and one pressure section. On the track it has 20 PSI and coming in after run at idle it has zero. Bearings come out looking just fine so adding a high volume pump in this case would only burn HP.
While we are on the subject, it is critical to have an oil filter bypass otherwise cold oil can collapse the filter element. Chrysler / Ford old school V8's usually have this in the filter , Chevy in the filter adapter.
Great Friday evening viewing here in London: Thanks Scotty!
I run a high-volume pump with high bleed lifters even with a high-volume pump in my 73 340 using comp cams high tech lifters which sadly they no longer offer I still reach zero psi at an idle once the engine reaches operating temperature. They are collapsed under 3500 rpm and pump up at 3500 rpm and weren't recommended for street uses, but 32 years later she still runs just fine.
I know it's getting to you a little bit mate, just remember you are not just slapping a Chevy or Ford together here.
You are crafting a Mopar!
Dad is itching to hear it and so are we!
Been around a bit done a few 318s and a couple of 340s in my day, great engine but lets face it they’re just another American V8, all the tension specs, lifter adjustments and clearance’s are virtually the same as SB & BBC, Ford big and small blocks, so it’s just a matter of choice, because they’re all the same just a V8 with a different brand name, what makes a good V8 of any brand is the person who builds that motor if you get a bad engine builder you’ll have a bad engine. This is the first time I’ve watched carnage and this bloke obviously knows his way around a 318, I bet if you gave him a Ford or a Chev V8 he would build it with the same meticulous care because I doubt very much that he would slap anything together so to say he’s crafting a mopar like it was sent by God to save the world you will have to come to the realisation that it’s just another American V8
Great video Scotty,
That engine is going to be mighty fine once it's finally in the engine bay. I'm really enjoying the build as it brings back a ton of memories.
Wicked! The end is in sight. It’s good that you’re showing warts n all. I can’t wait to see this thing finished mate.
Hey mate I thought some one would have commented. The reason the head came with the extra stud and told you to put it in that place is because the factory cast ones only have the one long one and that one is a short one on a factory head. Hope that makes sence of it. Cheers
Hey Scotty what colour are you giving Mr dodgy because I think candy apple red with white stripes look good on Mr dodgy
Hey Scotty,
Glad to see you have required all them bolts and nuts for this engine. Right before the next lockdown 😅
Very informative and entertaining, cheers mate!
After all the boosted 6 stuff it is lovely to see you assembling a good old fashioned cast iron V8 👍
A good trick when taking of bolt material is to put a nut on first, then when done cutting spin the nut off to clean the threads up
Take one step forward if lockdown is over.....Hold it right there Scottie.
Scotty at start of video We’re out of lockdown!! Nek minnit Dan Andrew’s “Time to get on the beers again Victoria” 🍻
Good stuff Scotty. It's all easy stuff from here on.....Oh hang on, that can't happen, this is Carnage!
This is the best channel, bar none!
I always put a nut on before cutting bolt/studs. Removing the nut clears thread easier then trying to put a nut on and no chance of cross threading
I love this build
I've learned a lot from your videos, Scotty. Thank you
That damn thing looks beautiful. As usual, great work explaining as you go.
Man i cant wait for the next one coming along sweet Scotty thanks mate
Tomorrow morning
Great stuff, Scotty! To quote Kim on Kath & Kim... "it's over, O V A H, over"!!! Cheers. Leigh.
Great episode, love these engine build videos
Ever closer to turning the key Scotty, As an old bloke who had to learn the hard way a lot of what you show here I 'get' the frustration and yet I still learn stuff every episode.
Sooooo Lockdown Wagooon next week huh......
Keeping her the VG Stud pattern or doing the later Stud pattern? Subframe extensions? Rack conversion? Chassis rail? Dart/VE front end conversion?
And you just HAVE to paint it Mustard/Bahama Gold with an amusing take on the Pacer stripes AND add dingle ballz or Fuzzy Dice.....
Hey Scotty, great video. Just curious, those LA chrysler engines originally oil the rockers through the rocker shafts. The pushrods are solid and don't allow oil to run up them onto the rocker itself. I noticed the pushrods you used have oil holes up the center. Is there a chance that this engine will suffer low oil pressure because the pump is trying to oil the rockers up the pushrods as well as the rocker shaft?
They can oil through both, we have plenty of oil pressure
@@STREETMACHINETV glad to hear it.... because I just did the same thing and haven't been able to sleep since lol. Great video guys👍
Great info Scotty coming along nicely. And we are back in LOCK DOWN 6
Scotty mate, Keep up the great work, cant wait till she fires up and on the dyno, Plus when measuring the rocker arm bolts shaft lengths, ( instead of the tape measure) why not use the vernier, that's why it has the pole and not just the clamp to use for measuring. :)
Thanks for the tip
That is going to be a great little engine Scotty... You did a bloody good job mate... Great to see you measure your pushrods not like old mate Corn Fed Boost when he built that V6 engine for Kevin the Commodore on Nugget Garage.
bloody Kevin the savage
Love your liberal use of the schmoo on the fasteners etc 😊
You need to grind your stud thread, holding stud at like a 70 degree angle from vertical , it wont burr over the threads and a nut will screw right on .
Really enjoying this, love the "this is not plug & play" so damn true, if you’re a mechanic in a dealership sure but when you’re building shit it’s never the case.
Nice build the only thing I would have done different is gone with a roller cam instead but it’s Carnage 🤣
I wish I had the $2000 to go roller
@@STREETMACHINETV yeah there’s that 🤣
WHAAAAT a hassel free episode things are lookin up for ya finally , great content cheers
That was cool. Your really gettin me interested in building an engine.
Pressure and volume of two separate issues one does not have anything to do with the other high pressure will blow up a filter high-volume just drives more oil but it does take more horsepower to drive high volume
Make sure you roll it around another 360 deg before you drop the dizzy in or you may have issues
Mopar Performance makes a cool stick-on timing tape that you apply to the balancer with high visibility markings right where they need to be. Part #P4529070AB. And a valve lash chart sticker for the 8-position method. Part #P4452989. Mancini has them both. Very handy at those 3AM trouble moments. Don't ask me how I know. Looking forward to seeing it come together and fire up.
Yep, just didnt want to wait a week
Oil pressure is the oil that is not getting into the bearing and circulating around. It is better to have a larger amount of oil circulating around then it is to have heavy oil our high oil pressure. Large amounts of thin oil will lubricate better at high RPMs and less drag better horsepower 2. Full synthetic oil works best but it has to be changed a little more often than what they say because it gets saturated with its detergent a little sooner than what they claim. Hydrocarbons work their way into the oil in a high-performance situation quicker.
A high volume pump might be required if you run twin turbos and an external oil cooler as the drain off for the turbos and the cooler might reduce pressure too much especially if you’re running hydraulic lifters.
I have always used GM Sealer on head bolts that go into the water jacket.
Any way i can get the cam part number, and the Edelbrock part number for the whole assembly. I live in Florida and I am trying to replicate what you're building
What ratio roller rockers did you use
Good work Scotty ! No pressure having a camera watch you work lol! 😁😁
measured pushrods wrongly,because lifters didnt have any oill in them and they werent pumped up it would be totally collapsing the plunger in hydraulic lifter before the pushrod would be moving giving a false reading on length of pushrod.thats why you use very light checker springs.
Not perfect I agree, but in the ball park
How do you figure? If the cam was on the base circle, it wouldn't make any difference. Scotty was applying the smallest amount of load to the point where he was just feeling resistance on the pushrod. A typical hydraulic lifter even when completely empty has more spring resistive force in the lifter than that he was applying to the nut (solid is another story). Not a heck of a lot more, but more. So there was nothing wrong with what he did. Different story if he was trying to set them all that way, but why would he that would be a great way to damage everything from the cam to the rocker. Even then he mention priming the engine before running it, so as long as it gets a really lengthy oil pressurization before anything moves it should be fine. But nothing beats a few hours soaking in oil to fill them properly.
Another awesome video, keep it up
Very interesting video Scotty!
There is more to building an engine than people think. Now they should know why it cost so much to have one built.
Sorry to hear you guys are back in lockdown yet again!!
Cheers from stalag Sydney
🇦🇺🦘🐨🍺🍺🍺🍺🐨🦘🇦🇺
Good job Scotty!
When you use a high volume pump you want to use the thinner 5w 20 or 0w 20.
We just make the threads longer on the stud side.
what fred sealer did you use
I'm calling BS on the play-doh you just wanted an excuse to play with it again🤣🤣
Totally get you showing it keep the keyboard mechanics happy🙃
You do know that the 273 and possibly the 340 had factory adjustable shaft rockers you could have used as a budget alternative right ?
Hard to find these days
Getting there well done
So, would the hold down bolts have been ok as is if short thread was into the head and long thread having the nut?
Basically
27:45 I believe they make straws like these for hens nights
i have a 92 318 how can i get 400 hp out of it it's fule injection now all stock
Crumbs! Till you got to those studs I thought there wasn't going to be any trauma. That would have been disappointing, we expect entertainment on this channel Scotty!
Lockdowns over... that aged well.
No matter what has been done at a machine shop you should always thoroughly clean the block, heads & all parts than check everything done before assembly to make sure clearences are correct you are doing everything correctly
Nice work. Have not seen your other vids. Why no solid at 238" at 0.050?
I'm not a big fan of solid cams for street cars, just a personal thing.
@@STREETMACHINETV Fair enough, what the specss,lease or what episode to watch. Bought back memories. Do you need to use the shims the alian the rockercsto the valve stem. I thought i had it sorted and using lass caps, getting the valves machined 0.080 shorter. no hard facing left and then had to hand grind; eveery collet and lash cap. Worst thing was, a few years latter, seen Comp Cams had all the parts, the smaller bits, need ed to do the job! A lot of love on me engine and I still have trouble. . i got some 1976 318 castings and they need attention, with the value tip placing.! All good, thanks for getting back to me,
Cheers'
adam.
I dont think Felpro recommends those gaskets for aluminum heads
Where was the shifter!
Doing a great job Scotty. Got a 340 here u can screw together for me when you are finished 😁👍
Hey Scotty, you think every time your dads ute fights you and you take one step forward and two steps back that his sitting up there watching you saying that’s for every time you wouldn’t clean your room or walk the dog son?
Great work as always mate I guess next episode might be a video on the the ******** wagon?
Good job Scotty what are the cam specs on this little terror ? Don’t want to put the mozz on ya I would have gone roller expensive yes but so is going through a fresh rebuild a second time ,too many horror stories with cam and lifters eating them selfs lately. While you had those lifters out I would have checked the bases just as a piece of mind there not flat from poor machining practices. Keep up the great work.!
Personal choice, but would've painted the heads, timing cover and water pump Hemi orange as well... + the intake. It would look "factory" (somewhat) ;)
I have done similar in the past but decided to leave the shiny stuff shiny
Al Gore has got the Lockdown Rhythms bloody Melbourne ah well beers beers beers the 318 its coming together nicely Scotty👍🍻
I wish that I still had my 85 Ram with the 318 that I wanted to rebuild before someone stole it 😢😢😢😢😢
What's with the intake ports? They look terrible
Some people like to port them for that reason but hey will work fine at my level.
Can the 318 take some boost
God bless!
HI Scotty
i was just about to say keep it stock they built them to handal a lot more than it needs and yes plenty of lube lol
Episode 18 of carnage unnumbered
Scotty your mate Scotty M. introduced a further lockdown so you could finish the 318 project)) you will need a pretty accurate centre for the front oil seal
That's why I used the balancer to centre it
Thx Scotty, awesome stuff appreciate the extra content as a budding valiant Charger restorer I look forward to this and the “ “ wagon, have a question regarding the brakes which model did they come off as they appear to be superior to the single pot caliper on the charger keep up the good work Kia kaha
Charger calipers are better. Much bigger pads
Interesting again Scotty, mucking around like that isn't what your after, when's it every straight forward though..does look good though.
You don't Lube underneath the washer on those head bolts
Well done buddy you make it always look so easy lol 😂.
Dad's Ute is coming on .
Just wanted to know who's your camera man /woman 🤷
And this lockdown is creating so much time Loss and delays
It's a pain in the ass 🙈
Can't wait for the next episode keep up the good work
Fram HP1 filter is large capacity high burst strength .
Did you have to check for valve to bore clearance
Not with this bore size
What was the bore size
@@dproudveteran7001 318+0.060, so 3.97in bore
I believe mine is .030 over so 3.940
Scotty uncle Tony's garage has a warning on lifters that come with new cams and references another video that evidence the reasons ( remanufactured)
Thanks Scotty ,for keeping our insanity through this covid bullshit , keep up the good work mate .
I seal up my oil pan last as well. Just becouse I know how clumsy my fingers can be.