Log Splitter Control Valve - Auto Kickback to Manual Conversion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Step by Step!
Do you have a seized auto-kickback detent? Log splitter control lever not moving and seized in the forwards or reverse position? Log splitter engine hard to start? This video may help!
Follow the steps in this video to convert your log splitter from auto kick back to completely manual valve control.
We had to do this modification on this particular log splitter because the auto kick back assembly (detent) was completely seized up and would therefor not allow the valve lever to move the plunger/valve inside the valve control body.
OEM Part: M1V24A-00001 Valve Control with Auto Kick Back
Valve Specs: 25GPM 3500psi (with adjustable auto kick back)
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What I failed to mention is my customer heats his house with a wood stove, so this log splitter had to be returned in working condition so he could split wood to burn. I've gotten a couple comments saying I shouldn't have done this, but if you watch the video you'll also hear me say we did order the replacement part, but that won't be in for 2 weeks. In the meantime, my customer will just have to be careful using this equipment, as there is essentially no safeties anymore. In my opinion, this log splitter isn't any more dangerous than it was before, as long as you pay attention while using it, and don't max out the piston in either direction.
Additionally, this unit had the forward return spring to automatically return the valve to neutral if the operator let go of the lever when the wedge was moving forwards to split a log. I most likely could've used a washer at the bolt head end, reused the spring and put the bolt through them, so that when the lever was pressed forwards, the spring would compress enough to bring the valve back to neutral when the lever was released. It would take a bit more time to figure out the correct length of bolt needed to do this, but it's something that could be set-up to give additional safety.
The last time I used an inherited splitter back in the ‘80’s I’d never heard of that auto kickback feature. Seems like a great idea.
“Forced disassembly”! I think I’ll add that to my terminology glossary, Jake!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the identification details. The whole time you were showing the part I was going to ask for a link to the IPL. 👍🔧
Thanks for watching Rein
Good video to get someone out of trouble that only heats their home with wood and is almost out, especially with the cold temperatures we have been getting. Also good that you got the customer to sign the liability waiver. One happy and warm family right now just waiting on the replacement valve.
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance you guys.......too funny 🤣😅🤣🤣
I knew a guy who was working with a log splitter and got his thumb took off because of not paying attention to it glad you are doing a video on the auto return to manual return
Yes that's why it had the forward return spring to automatically return it to neutral. Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance okay thanks for the video on this matter Jake
Good modification Jake. Another happy customer 🔧👍
Thanks GM!
Nice video. My splitter auto kickback wasn't working when i started it this spring. Now I should be able to easily fix it. Thanks!
Excellent explanation on how the valve works
Great modification. I see "can't be done" is not in your vocabulary. Good for you. By the way, after watching your last two videos, I went out and checked my snow blower to make sure that the auger was installed correctly and that my bushings were not too worn.
Good job it never hurts to check things out periodically. Presently we are firing up our lawn mowers we have in stock and reviewing which ones may need some service.
Thanks for watching!
What a great video explaining what you had to modify on the log splitter until the part needed came in to repair it the right way but a good way to use it in a pinch if you need it straight way as the customer did. 🔧
Great walk through of a log splitter, good idea to Have the oil tank in the RHS beam
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Brought back memories. Split lots of wood with my dad. He split the wood I piled it. I got my pilots license.
Good memories, thanks for watching Jimmy!
Great job showing and explaining, in detail, the mechanics... 👍
Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial. NO WASTE OF TIME.
Nice video, very informative, having the same problem with mine,, thank you..
Very Clever and great job! I was impressed with your ingenuity and creativity! The video may have seemed a little long to you, but it was good getting the history and background and explanations.
Thanks Joe, just got to be careful with this modification as there's essentially no safeties anymore to protect the operator. We only did this to get my customer back up and running since he heats his house with a wood stove.
@@EliminatorPerformance That makes perfect sense, and you mentioned in the video that the value body was on order. With the sometimes delays with the supply chain, its nice that you can get a customer up and running quickly while waiting on parts.
@@joehorecny7835 we just got the email, thanks for the support Joe!
@@EliminatorPerformance Glad to assist!
Another great video..
I rebuilt a very heavy homemade log splitter detent valve and was able to use it for about 5 or 5 cord of wood.
I hate these manual valves. I would rather have a Automatic Return Valve for splitting alot of wood. For just a little bit of wood the manual is fine e but if you are splitting alot.of cords then you need an automatic return valve.
You can split so much more wood
Yes it would definitely make for quicker work, but to get my customer up and running or use it for a 2 man operation where 1 person is loading and the other is operating the lever this would work fine. New valve is on order probably 2 week delivery ETA
@@EliminatorPerformance yep..as a small engine repair mechanic and owner of my own business you have o do what's best for the customer to get them back in service
Good day Jake >Yea they are nice those automatic returns. My does not have it.
I knew someone who built home made splitter, no relief valve & it spun splitter onit side, this was tractor splitter.
That look like a Ford .behind, I wonder who's that was? Thanks Good learning video.
That's the old man's with my business name and number on it! Only Ford's here Don, thanks for watching!
Very good video thanks Jake
Thanks Henry!
My auto kickback problem was a stuck shuttle valve at the valve end of the threaded piece. Knocked out a roll pin at the end of the threads, tapped out a small plug (1/8" approx) and was able to push the valve back and forth from each end after inserting air tool lube in both sides. Got it to move freely enough after a few minutes and reassembled. Works good now!
Had the detent sleeve on backwards the first time and it would lock in forward but not reverse. Oops.
Hi mate this is not about this tool it's about the plastic welder 6 months ago when you run out of clips get a roll of 1mm stainless Steel cut and bend how you want save money 💰 can't see them clips you got with it being stainless and you can cut the wire to any Length so you have seamless weld hope this helps 👍
Thanks but these are very inexpensive to purchase but thanks for the information. Prior to the purchase of this welder we would use cut wire and our soldering iron with zip ties as a plastic filler.
Good job !
Nice looking hydraulic set up and a little trash in system will cause valve to stick
The mechanism on this splitter that seized, should have been able to unseize. Or was it completely impossible for to unseize the mechanism???? Inquiring minds want to know. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤷🏿♂️ Keep up the good work. 😊👍🏿
We tried! We put it through the ultrasonic cleaner, then soaked it in oil. Even used the venom HP induction heat tool to heat it up. Thing was seized solid.
@@EliminatorPerformance Wow, what caused it to seize so badly?????🤔🤷🏿♂️
@@patrickpoulard24 we believe he stored it in the upright position and the hydraulic fluid drained out and some moisture got in because of that plastic cap.
@@patrickpoulard24 Totally rusted heavily inside the cover with shaft and springs etc totally corroded with rust. Basicaly the internal relief ball that allows the dent section to operate could not even be freed up with lots of rust preventative lubrication sprays nor 3 times in the ultrasonic cleaner then flushed with WD40 until clear fluid ran out of it.
@@waynestefinashen239
I was thinking the same procedures minus the Venom, which I don’t have, but using my heat gun and propane torch, except since we’ve got an abundance of snow these days I would have shocked it with copious amounts of snow/ice/slush. That and also the only tool you couldn’t have used in this case - time. I’ve soaked things in penetrant for days or weeks of applications to get them loose eventually.
👍👍👍Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I just don’t like the filter on return, preferably on pressure side but it’s a tad dangerous with out a relief line
Why not use a dremel or nut splitter to take the nut off and then pull the piece forward ?
It was easier to just remove the whole thing and then cut it lol trust me, we even put the venom HP induction heater to it and the nut wouldn't budge, the whole thing was seized solid.
The dent system removed very easily once the nut section was split with the grinder. We did not use the nut splitter since we may have damaged the housing which needed re-installation for manual use and the dremel would have taken too long. Once is was cut off we were able to move the nut but the system was still seized up due to rust and corrosion.
I have an L110 John Deere rider when running it wants reg and back off so it's running fast then slow then fast then slow almost like it's cammed up. What to do to fix it
Do they make a valve that locks forward than releases and backwards and releases?
swap the hoses, but will kick out with pressure
Thanks bud ..Building my Upright splitter from scratch...so this was great info...Love your channel
Why did water get in the valve , is there water in the hydraulic oil ? Did you change the hydraulic oil or filter ? It looks like it was left outside uncovered . Does the engine stall when the cylinder hits the end of its travel on both ends ? Scary to let these modes go out , Because if a line or fitting lets go at high pressure a serious injury can occur . Making these or this mod is not a good idea if you do not know what could happen to you or anybody close by . This is a can of worms , I WOULD NOT OPEN .
Customer stored this outside, and I believe also in the upright position which is not recommended. We believe some moisture got in, and pair that with it being upright and gravity pulls the oil down, away from the kickback assembly. As for water, the oil is clear and not milky so he didn't want the hydraulic filter changed. All I did was remove the kickback and install a bolt to make the control valve operate manually, and changed the engine oil to 5w30. The valve works fine, and if the piston is allowed to max out, the engine simply shuts down because it can't turn the pump. Basically a hydrolock situation as I mentioned. My customer was ok with the modification, he actually requested it. He just wanted it up and running until the new part arrives (2 weeks out) and I figured this would make a good video for anyone who had the same issue. Thanks for watching!
Your correct Chris but because the customer heats his home with wood only and is almost out of split wood (also being elderly can not swing an axe to split) they requested the modification waving any liability against EP and when the new part arrives it will immediately be installed. PS sad the dent section is not available it would likely have cost around $50 for it but if they continue to store this outdoors without some sort of protection from the elements it will happen again. Possible that covering this valve with a plastic bag and WD40 spraying periodically will improve longevity is possible.
Really need a lock nut on bolt and grade 8
That is a terrible fix and will destroy the spitter if you do not manually take it out of the power stroke and return stroke instantly. Instead pull the pin on the lever and rotate the hydarulic rod 180 degrees and it will be fixed. I have a 37 ton performance built the design is the same my handle did the same crap started sticking and not kicking off on power stroke or return stroke there is springs and balls the contact the the detent groove along the control rod that runs threw the body, if you rotate it 180 degress its a instant fix . What happened is the grooves called the detents ground flat from sliding side to side over time when you pull the lever if you pull the pin on the handle and rotate it it is like new. The new unworn detents on the other half of the rod work great. Id call him back and fix it correctly. You will risk blowing the puppy out if hes not johnny on the spot to stop the stroke. Thats why not one log splitter in the world is manual as you say or want to make it.
I would agree, and as I mentioned this was only to get my customer up and running until the replacement valve body came in. He was able to get wood split in the meantime to heat his house, and the replacement part has been swapped over. It's working as intended again.
@@EliminatorPerformance right , i fixed some typos let me know if this helps you buddy.
@@RICHIE_RICH89Thanks, if I get another one in I'll try flipping the rod around 180°. In this case, it was just given back to him to use for a few days, about a week later we installed the new assembly and the auto kickback works perfectly.