Valentín Giró - K2 Magic Line Expedition (English version)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- In June 2004 a small team of five climbers - Óscar Cadiach, Manel de la Matta, Jordi Tosas, Jordi Corominas and Valentín Giró - travelled to Pakistan with a challenging dream in their minds: to climb K2, the "Mountain of Mountains" by the Magic Line route. With an altitude of 8.611 meters, K2 it's not only the second highest peak on Earth. It's shape and vertical drop make K2 the only eight-thousander where somebody who is placed at its Base Camp (5.100 m) can reach visually a climber on the summit! Climbers say about K2 that its a mountain that really begins when many other eight-thousanders end. With this film and also through my Blog (www.valentingir...) I want to share now this story that has marked my life forever, not only for what I experienced and learned there with my team mates but particularly for what we lost in this mountain. The film of the K2 Magic Line EXpedition shows how five passioned climbers worked hard and feel good to make real an ambitious dream. This film is also in Spanish and Catalan version:
• Valentín Giró - Expedi... (ESP)
• Valentín Giró - Expedi... (CAT)
Take a minute to consider Jordi Corominas’ summit day. Leaving Camp 4 at 4am, climbing largely alone through waist high snow on a route not climbed for 20yrs, at an elevation of over 8000m WITHOUT supplemental oxygen, summiting in the middle of the night, and descending through the Bottleneck with the overhanging serac on an unfamiliar route. Truly phenomenal.
Amazing .... and how the hell he found the bottleneck on a route he didn`t know is quite extraordinary.
Many lost themself while the descent... how he found the way in the night it's beyond me
@@T0n189 he's super humble, professional mountain guide and he never enjoyed being famous. That's possibly greatest climb in history of man kind. He's outliar of death zone as not only entered there 4am also climbing day before afternoon at 8100-8280m and sleeping overnight at 8100m before 20hour summit push then descending with headlamp via Bottleneck, meeting Japanese team after 5am at C4 of Cesen-Abruzzi 8000m. That's over 36hours timeline.
amazing, :0
@@19Kamau79 Nahhhh not quite ..... Ueli Steck climbing Annapurna by the South Face solo in 25 hours is just beyond imagination.
Jordi Corominas’ was a truly great climb too ..... no disrespect from me.
R.I.P. Manel. One of the most beautiful, pure ascents I have ever seen. Their attitude, their thoughts, their positivity and appreciation for the beauty of the mountains, their humility, their warm fraternity with each other and with the porters, and their courage in the face of death, are to me what mountaineering should be about. I think in some ways climbing mountains is really a way to explore the human spirit and find out who we are. This was not just a technical accomplishment, but a beautiful adventure. Well done Jordi Corominas, Manel de la Matta, Óscar Cadiach, Valentín Giró, and Jordi Tosas.
“If climbers who reach the summit of Mt. Everest touch the sky, those who reach K2’s summit, touch the sky. And win it.” Hell yeah.
Hell Yea :)
@@TheMaddi001 Heaven yeah too.
One of the best climbing docs I've seen, and I've seen a lot. They shot all the footage themselves, and it's the great MAGIC LINE! K2 was still pretty much a true alpine climb at this time. No bunch of local "slaves" carrying coffee makers, Os, or dragging climbers. These guys laid the lines and broke trail themselves! 20 days of straight climbing WITHOUT SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN. In a time when Everest has been little more than an expensive climbing Club Med, this doc is completely refreshing. They tour us on all the famous surrounding peaks and many great views down the majestic glaciers, with good attention to the routes. Routes and mtns I have traced on Google Earth and climbing sites dozens of times (armchair climber, so as close as I'll get!). The resolution is better than many Nat Geo YT transfers. I cried when they opened their tent at their 7,300m bivouac and captured the stunning view. The immediacy of the "home' movies really gave everything a great reality. Even an avalanche was endured from the climber's POV. RIP Manel, and cheers to the rest for their achievement and this great doc.
why dont you marry it then
@@MKxpl She never said it was Everest. Read it again. She was comparing K2 to the "Club Med" Everest of today.
That is an amazingly cutting post from someone who has no experience or right to criticise in such a demeaning manner. Unless you do a lot of jogging and push ups on that couch of yours, you would never make the trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp let alone climb that or any other mountain.
You are right, Everest is a peanut compared to Mighty K2, lazy laidback people have no idea what K2 is, the magic line even makes it more difficult on the top of it if you consider it from North Side "North Ridge" that is almost impossible. They say "summiting K2 once is more difficult than winning 10 Olympics Gold medals.
How dare you @rudelady to call the locals as slaves.
one of the best climbing documentaries I've ever seen
Wich ons is the best
This is by far the most impressive expedition I have ever seen! A team of 4 men from base camp to summit, doing EVERYTHING by themselves.
Building their own routes, safety lines, camps.
They went up & down the mountain a dozen times in order to bring up enough equipment to camps.
None of them used oxygen. Corominas summitted by himself & descended down the other side of the mountain! He was there for the 1st time, alone, at night, without existing safety lines and no oxygen! How did he make it?!
All other expeditions I have seen on video pale in comparison to this!!!
The view out of the tent at camp 3 is amazing and terrifying at the same time.
Tears came to my eyes. That was so beautiful and so crazy. One of the best shots of mountaineering docs, ever.
Walking without being tied in at 7,500m 30:12 & 31:53
I fall asleep to K2 documentaries on a nightly basis. The dreams I have consist of me climbing K2 and they're freaking awesome :-)!! K2 is a mountain of mountains and I applaud anybody that has been a part of climbing that mountain!!
Have you tried climbing mountains?
RIP Manel... great adventure and splendid scenery, there's no other place on earth that can compare to the beauty of the Karakoram range in Pakistan, but also its fraught with danger... its raw nature at its best, Salam!
+N1CY thanks buddy
That Magic Line is like an ultra marathon! It takes a certain kinda rare person to even want to face something that tough.
This proves that K2 is scary as hell. Those men got up to camp 4, spent the night and said Helll no! With all that experience up to that point to turn away had to be frightening.
with no oxygen!!!
They were just shattered.
It’s too hard in the death zone. Not everyone’s body adjusts.
Really Incredible story ! imagine to climb the hardest route on the hardest mountain in the world, reach the summit at night alone! and then descend the other route alone in night through the most dangerous part on K2- bottleneck ! absolutely amazing, bravo Jordi Corominas !
Would you like adventure of k2?
Seems almost fictional
Did he have on a GPS tracker to verify this? Insane feat if he did🙏
I'd say the hardest route is the east side in winter. In that no one's tried the former, and no one has succeeded at the latter.
@@choubala He went down the Abruzzi line, meeting with the Japanese camp at 8000m. There's only one way he could have gotten there from the Magic Line, and that's via the summit of K2...
@@jolly_roger2 Amazing, thanks for that insight!!! This must be one of the greatest all time feats on K2. Right along with the recent winter summit by Sherpa group
I loved the positive attitudes of all the climbers here more than anything else. But the footage was unparalleled as far as K2 videos goes. Thanks.
Yes its a totally different view from the Magic Line where you get to see peaks you rarely see on Abruzzi Spur.
Amazing I am Pakistani and I would never dare to climb K2 big hats off to these people of steel, lots of respect ✊
Just getting to the base of K2 would be a great a great adventure!
“If you don’t leave home, you’ll never climb the K2” ~ Jordi Corominas best quote ever!
Agreed buddy
That's why I don't leave home. If I wake up one morning to find myself on the Magic Line and it's summit day I'm just gonna quietly grab one of those ropes and hang myself. Fun to watch though, that's for certain. Close as I plan on getting.
Best quote hu?! Weirdo
respect, true
Yes it’s true but only hero’s claim k2 ❤️ timo
Climb on, Manel, climb on!
We are coming behind you.
Your goodness has touched us all.
11:50 respect to this guy.
In relation to what Bonington said, I guess for most people, it doesn't really matter if the route is 100% unclimbed. Unless you have actually done it before, to you, the experience is new and fresh. Even the feeling that comes with climbing and accomplishing a new route, the majority of the joy is transitory.
2:44, RIP Manel, still the 16 seconds of euphony that accompanied the obituary was very, very touching. Sad yet elegant.
Rest in peace, Manel de la Matta. You and your teammates have been immortalized by your accomplishments documented in this film, so that you will not be forgotten.
The best documentary of mounatineering i had ever seen..RIP to Manel..wht a sheer team work..jordi manel, antonio, pakistani porters nd others in d team hs truly showed wht tht team spirit is..may God bless u all..
Masha Allah
I am from Baltistan.my home town is 3 hours far to k2 mountain.. Very lovely place.. It is a great blessing of Allah to the peoples of Baltistan
When will someone climb masherbrum again such an incredible and difficult mountain
Thanks for sharing english version!
Real and touching story about K2...
i hve been to base camp of k2 and believe me what i saw around was unbelievable i couldn't believe it there was always a smile on face wish i could go to top of k2
I believe the polish like (Kukuczka - Piotrowski) is the most difficult road on K2. It was never repeated for a reason. The Poles did great things on K2, but the price was too high.
he died on Lhotse
@@gtr5860 I know, but other polish climbers I meant died on K2. Piotrowski, Wróż, Mrówka.
The polish were crazy in those days 😮 are there any young polish climbers or is that spirit of alpinism finished in Poland?
Indeed a great documentary. I wished there was one on Jerzy Kukuczka's ascent on the Polish Line. Due to it being the most dangerous route, it will never be repeated nor will anyone try to achieve this for a very long time.
Surely someone will attempt it or is this spirit of alpinism dead?
one of the hardest climbs in the world no doubt .. salute sir ...
+David F The East and North Faces of K2 are unclimbed. Oh not forgetting east face of Kanch. Enough said.
Agreed David there are a hell of a lot of unclimbed routes all around. It was Messner who said the Polish line on K2 was suicidal and Jerzy did it and it's never been tried again.
@@shaundevlin4902where does masherbrum NE face rank?
That is a good question. After spending a couple of days looking at internet pictures of it WOW! Well I guess it is up there with
K2's unclimbed East Face. @@JL-nk1pc
One of the best mountaineering docos I've seen. So authentic. It's rare to have great narration too (both content and delivery). Thank you.
Manel's words in the end is just so poetic and wise...
love uu 03165366757 i m local k2 climber contect me
watched so many climbing videos Jordi's climb and summit really is one of the worlds most outstanding climbs ive seen
such a beautiful documentary. really moved me
ellin dear i love you
Very nicely documented.... Salute to Manel .. He is resting in piece on his dream for forever ❤
The king of mountain the bride of mountaineers always waiting for brave hearts unexpected where weathers can be worse any second always respect heroes like these just speechless voice from Pakistan
salute to the whole team
What is amazing, is that nowadays everyone has better technical gear and equipment and would still struggle to do this..... but these guys did this in 2004 with inferior gear and sheer determination, skill and ability. It was really neat seeing the equipment they were using versus modern mountaineers.
Which begs the question where are the talented hungry climbers attempting new routes? Alpinism has become more about business than explorations.
These men and women who attempt such a challenge as climbing K2, they inspire me with my smaller challenges. As we all live going "from tragedy to tragedy" in an optimistic climb of the steep slope of life. Always toward the summit.
Great video. It takes great courage to climb such mountains.
Absolutely amazing documentary i can’t imagine jordi corominas’ feeling on his summit day. This route seems to have a perfect name.
2:00 in 1986 two Poles and one Slovak(!) passed Magic Line;
Filmmakers also forgot to mention even more difficult way, between Magic Line and Abruzzi, known as Polish Line, demarcated in 1986 by Poles too (Kukuczka & Piotrowski) and NEVER repeated. I am the representative of the most awesome nation climbing the Himalayas! :)
#K2ForPoles #K2DlaPolaków
That's great...
Is it the same Cessen route?
Too bad k2 isn’t in the Himalayas!
@@TheRiijk No problem for the Poles - they showed their class also in Karakoram.
@@TheRiijk Karakoram is one part of Himalayas and not separate
@@khalidyzai9476 No. The Polish Line is west of the Cessan Route. It's also known as The South Face. It'a a truly insane route that nobody else has ever attempted!
Thank you so much for the English version w/ subtitles. I've this about fifty times, but today was the best viewing yet!
Fantastic film and a great achievment. Thanks for posting this English version. So much more impressive than Everest, even the walk in to base-camp is hardcore! On Everest if you're at BC you can always take a half hour walk to Gorak-shep and buy a beer (I know I did when I was climbing Pumori and we were on a rest day!). And you don't get the "Ice-fall doctors" on K2 to help you over the dangerous part.
Good to hear this from a climber who has been there. I am only an avid armchair climber and I was blown away by this film, one of the best climbing docs I've seen, including IMAX and all the fancy camera docs and dramas of poor over-used Everest. Amazing how so few docs bother to show all the routes, or point out the other Ks!
Amazing video ... I was upset to hear Manel died on the way down. I was worrying for the guy who went over the top alone at night! Sad!
One of the best documentaries.
Amazing video... thanks for sharing this
Excellent video with stunning views of majestic mountains and the toughest and best trekking in the world.
Bless all who have lost their lives on mountains and bless those who gave lost loved ones on the mountains,great documentary, bless manel ur sadly missed
Thank you so much for the English subtitles. There's so many great mountain climbing videos that I can't watch because I don't understand the language! Thanks for taking me with you on your great adventures!
One of the best Himalaya documentaries ever made. I have many on DVD and this one truly captures what climbing there is all about.
Can't believe anyone would feel the need to make k2 MORE difficult.
Good point!
Steart Fires kukuczka line
Poles have found the way to make k2 the MOST difficult: they climb in the winter.
They did not
It is explained very well in the film. If people only do climbed routes, there is no future in mountaineering and alpine adventure dies. Look at what Everest has sadly become, and some other Himalayan peaks. And K2 is now getting crowded. But she will keep her secrets better than Everest! No one will enjoy espresso on the Magic Line. Hopefully.
one the the rawest, purest forms of documentaries I have seen. Just goes to show that it takes a team for even one man to summit K2.
I am from Gilgit, good to see this old yet fascinating video. In 2004 we used to play football and cricket in our fields while legends played K2 K2.
R.I.P. Manel
Another very rare great video which is not drowned with stupid music but the roar facts of the journey. Bitersweet with achievment and loss but that seems to be the equation with great endeavours. Those that lived to tell the tale, but include with great humbleness those who did not. (English commentary greatly appreciated)
a story worth telling of very tough men but men who care RIP Manel
RIP Manel. Jordi is a legend of mountaineering.
Incredible bravery and strength ..huge respect Jordi 👏
RIP fellow climber ! Great effort by the whole team .. brilliantly captured.
145 people summited K2 in one day last month. Absolute madness.
This is an absolute treasure for alpine mountaineers & laymen alike! Thank you for sharing🙏🏼
Awesome, awesome views, a must watch!👍
Great video and thanks for posting. Always been fascinated with some of these lesser climbed routes and its great to get a documentary on one. Appalling some of the comments on here but thats the internet i guess. RIP Manel
Beautiful, pure ascent. This was world class
Great video. A great adventure, a harrowing story. Thank you very much for sharing such an amazing experience!
Great documentary nice work....RIP Manel
The death of Manel really made me sad. RIP.
Shaun D You’re a charmer
Kudos to these Mountaineers who have the drive and courage to climb these Mountains more power to them.
Most incredible achievement!
Great job. As a climber myself this is amazing. If only I had the time and money to get to that part of the world for some real alpine climbing.
Fantastic documentary
A great video...great photography which makes you feel you are on K2....For all the wankers with the negative comments...get a life !
Great video, thanks for sharing!
good film...i love real life adventure stories
wow beautiful documentary rip manel
Very well done. Thank you
I wonder if having oxygen would have helped manel survive. What a trully sad ending for such a great success. RIP dude
How do the climbers get the ropes up there in the first place? How is that even possible I don’t understand because it’s so steep and just a sheet of ice. Do they dig their ice axes in and pull themselves up?
Thankful I found this gem, brilliantly told
I've never climbed but these mountaineering adventures really fascinate me. What would worry me If I were a cimber, even if I'd possessed a very high degree of climbing skills is the fact that there is so much that can go wrong.
One error, one avalanche, one rock fall, one turn for the worse of weather. So to accomplish such feats takes an enormous amount of courage and determination. Sorry walking up the miners track of Snowdon is about my limit!
As one climber put it ...Everest is for wine and cheese party's. .K2 is for real climbers☺☺
I see the fun banter.. but.. Everest is still deadly and difficult.. and one does not have the right to disrespect those that attempt it and those that lose their lives in doing so.. including Ueli Steck.
Only pussies die on everest
@@lovefist208 have you ever climbed Everest? Or any mountain?
@@mohamedAli-kj6fb omfg! Do you even sarcasm
@@lovefist208 my bad, put in some emoji so we know how you feel 👍
How I enjoy the narrator's voice
And the video
A tale of immense courage and perseverance
Amazing documentary great background music too thanks
Amazing video, brilliant. Enjoyed every minute
"A very easy name for the very hardest mountain.
K2"
Superb, thank you
Great film, thank you..! Here you can see we are not more then ants on our planet...
Excellent documentary on the world's most fabled mountain. Was a book published on the 'Magic Line' ascent?
I would recommend two books Kukuczka "My Vertical World" and "At the summits of the world". There are described ascent even more difficult road to K2.
Magic line had been climbed only once before these men; about 20 years earlier. No commercial expedition uses the Magic line, because it involves heavy duty alpine climbing, with near vertical climbs for days!
Magic line is the most difficult way to K2 summit, but it does not have nearly as many avalanches.
Abruzzi ridge line is the easiest to climb, but has many avalanches & ice falls.
@@tropickman Thanks for the info.
The hardest route has to be the Russian ascent via. the west face. For a substantial portion, it WAS vertical, even overhanging
Turning on auto translation helps, although at times, the translation is poor
th-cam.com/video/u-b9cAuP8fc/w-d-xo.html
Deep respect for these heroes. Rest In Peace Manel
Truly amazing Journey
A Russian team did the *Magic line* in 2007 and summited on August 21. However they lost two members of their 15 member team due to altitude related issues. Eleven of them made it to the summit.
tht was direct west not the magic line. Direct West is the most difficult of all
Wow that's a really late time to be making an attempt.
Most teams I believe won't even try even in the first couple of days in August.
I'm sure that's the cut off,the last days of July.
But I'm no expert.
G'day from Australia ✋ mate
well maybe that's why they lost 2 of their team members.
+Jay B Yeah true I believe most K2 deaths have been in August, very sad.
There is also the Polish Line, most difficult way to summit K2 , never reppeted again!
Then there's the Polish man who SKIIED down K2 in 2018 😂😂
Andrzej Bargiel, proper MAD MAN! 😅😂
Great movie, touching story...
Masha Gr8 video and amazing gr8 adventure...
Božik, Piasecki, Wróż...
The "Polish Line" of Kukuczka & Piotrowski is similary great. And never repeated!!!
on K2 at night on my own and than u have to find the way back l mean new way back how crazy u have to get ?????
He climbed OVER K2 at night, alone. Crazy bastard!
It's Catholic Strength. He was stepping to the death zone day before afternoon started his climb 4am from last camp and pushed 20 hours to the summit then descending and meeting Japanese team around 6am at 7900m on the Abruzzi route. He spent around 40 hours above 8000m and pushing himself thru the most difficult terrain without use of supplemental oxygen. He wasn't alone he was dealing with the God.
19Kamau79 Keep religion out of this you freak. It was definitely not Catholicism that carried him through the mountains, it was hard training. You can say God, but not Catholicism, might as well say Islamism/Buddhism/Christianity
@@19Kamau79 fuck off with your pathetic god.
@@19Kamau79 If young boys lived on top of high mountains I'm sure catholic priests would be the best mountaineers =D
Lol I'm not Catholic just climber himself is and it's source of all his strength. If any Muslim repeats his feat then will be Allah on his side.
JEEZ !!!!! I get Vertigo ..just watching the Vids ....these blokes are ROCK Solid ....Sad that Manel lost his life ...Jordi going up alone ??? How much courage does that take ? Coming down is MUCH more difficult
Those who even go through Abruzzi are crazy enough
But going to magic line is insane should consult a psychiatrist
Lol it's all about the quest. Once it's in you you cant let it go untill the mission is complete. I totally understand the psychology and drive of mountaineers.
Great Achievement, Congratulations
wow its amazing route magic line
I Love Icefalls and crevases....they are like a wonder world where the time seams to be loocked in that Ice.
Pure magic .
I never treck....but i start to love this shit....im in love