Your repair videos are more like mystery novels the way you present them. They entice me to watch to the end to see who done it. Great videos that have shown me how complicated modern cars are.
Eric, those "big fat guesses" are much more educated than you make it look! Love the logic flow and reasoning. Now I have to get one of those sweet circuit breakers :)
It's actually called a fuse saver not buddy. There is another device called a fuse buddy but it does something different. www.mactools.com/en-us/Diagnostics-and-Testing/Circuit-Fuse-Testers/32e70820-d02d-49fe-8055-a60a00f06c4d/Fuse-Savers-/ET8005-10A/Fuse-Saver-10-Amp
Possible Solution. Hope I can help Eric, I love your videos and I’d be delighted to think I could help. Looks like Haldex4 which as others have said is used on VW/Audi group, Ford, Volvo, Land Rover and a few more European marques. There’s a filter element under an aluminium cover with two 4mm Allen screws and also a gauze pre filter on the back of the pump. I bet the gauze and filter element are choked with crud and causing mechanical / hydraulic restriction of the pump. Pull the pump out and clean the gauze, see if that lowers the current draw. It’s a pain to get the filter cartridge out but I’ve discovered that if you remove the two screws on the filter cover and run the pump (normally bi directional control on scan tool will allow that but I guess you could jumper the pump if required) the hydraulic pressure will push the filter out of the housing so that you can replace that (don’t dig or gouge the white plastic spacer between the alloy cover and the filter cartridge, it may not be the same as the Volvo one which comes with the new filter but the filter element will be correct). On earlier VWs the filter was a service part but it’s not now! You can get one from Volvo here in the UK though. I prefer to have the pump and filter out at the same time and flush through the oil passages between filter and pump with compressed air then replace the Haldex oil. Good luck, looking forward to Part 2, regards Russie (Russell’s Garage, Inverness)
Volvo tells you that the fluid and in the Haldex never needs replacement. I'm old school so I can't believe that so I serviced the Haldex unit at 160,000 km. We had to pull out the drive shaft on my 2005 XC70 to remove the filter. There is no drain plug so we had to crack open the case. Upon inspection, the fluid was filthy and the filter was almost plugged up. After replacing the filter and fluid and sealing up the case, the AWD system started working like new. 35,000 km later, the performance is still good. Always use the original Volvo supplied fluid as substitutions can lead to clutches failing in the unit.
160k km is probably past the expected lifetime Volvo had in mind. I'm pretty sure most manufacturers make cars to last around 150k km or 10 years whichever comes first.
Without giving away the fix, the video displays the importance of research. Your experience, logic and skill got us to the issue and it was an educational path. Thanks for bringing us along on this one, I enjoyed it very much.
I’m amazed with your work ethic. You can really tell you truly love your job! I wish all mechanics would put this much effort forth on dissecting problems, instead of assuming problems and throwing parts at it. Thank you for the videos. Keep them coming!
Difference between being good and lucky is experience. My take on the diagnosis to this point was all based on experience, which you have said. You my friend are just that good!
Here I was all mad because my garage queen '07 Silverado is just starting to blister paint over the rear wheel wells ... and then I see the undercarriage of THIS! I feel a little better now. :D Geesh ... barely over 100k, and a $430 driveline component takes a dump. Gotta love 21st Century manufacturing! I like the look of Identifix's wiring diagrams. Once I get rolling here, I think I'm going to get a subscription there. Thanks for showing all of that! Just got in from 7 hours of plowing, shoveling, and snowplowing a foot to 3 feet of snow (drifting like crazy). Of course, nothing is ever that easy around here. '94 s10 plow truck croaks on me way in the back yard (undercarriage on this loaf is 20x worse than that Freestyle!!). Luckily it was just the crappy "emergency" terminals my buddy threw on there when he owned it - gave 'em a tweak, and she fired right back up. THANK GOD!! I got stuck about 10x ... I'd get mad and hold the thing at 5 grand until it burned itself out of the hole I dug, lol - neighbors must love that, since my cat rotted right off the Y pipe - sounds like a 2-stroke Detroit with pipes, HAHAHA. Then, I had to get the Silverado out of the barn to get to my snowblower, which was buried under a mountain of junk ... then I see I had some parts taped to the engine that I was supposed to install this summer ... so had to throw those little bushings in the shift mechanism ... which then threw the shifter out of adjustment since they didn't have 1/2" of slop. Snowblower is an '88, and spent 8 years outside, uncovered before I got it, so that shift linkage was all rusted. Great! After that debacle, I finished the yard & driveway, went and shoveled & plowed my neighbors driveway, then FINALLY threw my winter wheels/tires on the Silverado, lol - better late than never, I say! :D
Gotta admire the work flow, you make it look very easy. There's nothing wrong with educated guessing, that's what makes the experienced techs so much more efficient. I made a circuit tester with circuit breakers and a buzzer/light to help with this kind of testing, though low amp breakers are a little hard to come by. The theme of simplifying the problem by dividing the circuit is a lesson that keeps coming back.
Hands down the best trouble shooting videos on TH-cam. The logic you use before you even start is outstanding. I would get salt in my eye in the first 2 minutes.
37:00 Ford used it's subsidiary Volvo Haldex AWD unit. The best! It has best fuel economy as it only comes on when needed, rendering the freestyle 500 and Montego mostly fwd. There was a Ford or Volvo tuneup kit the owner needed to keep up at 60,000 miles. (Change Haldex filter & fine oil)
That’s what your load pro buddy said years ago, I guess he’s on top of it after all! (80/20) or something close to that! Thanks again for the time spent with us
Hey Eric, Thank you for all of your thoughts behind interacting with the customer. I'm not a mechanic, but I do my very best to be an educated customer. I bring all my vehicles to my auto mechanic for oil changes and filters, because I always offer to pay him for the time to look them over, stem to stern, looking for any potential 'show stoppers' (or car stoppers, more to the point.) I have had him say "your transmission cooling lines are rusting out... if they go, you won't." Worth every penny of $150. Thanks again!
Great troubleshooting Eric. Love the way you showed how you followed the wiring schematic and went for the weather exposed component. Enjoy all your videos for various reasons from laughts to technique to tools used. I store them all in my noodle but sometimes they get lost up there. Great direction though thanks
Looks like the customer is kinda stuck at this point, car wont shift so undrivable, You cant go any further until a expensive part is installed to continue troubleshooting. Love to hear that conversation. Great troubleshooting by the way. Hope there's a follow up.
Outstanding job Eric. Fully understand the need to touch base with the customer of the traction control light illumination whether or not there was a problem before the speedometer operation. Hope we can see the final repair
In modern cars it is more common that the ABS/ESC controller is the source of vehicle speed data. The ABS/ESC is reading all 4 wheel speeds already and the cluster is on the CAN so it allows OEMs to delete the trans output shaft sensor.
Hi Eric and the cast (Mrs O & Sheiba) Glad to see 2018 will bring more real videos. You showed us the connector lock tab issue. I have broken more of thoes than I would like to admit to, but as you say sometmes virtually impossoble not to with aged plastic. As a repair I use a small zip tie in the figure 8 form both wire ends of the connector seems to work well. Great video please keep us in the loop regarding further repair.
never fails they break after a few years, zap straps(zip ties) are the quickest fix, just careful you don't smash the wires, leave it pinched and chaffing. it can cause green crusties if it's breaks insulation or pulls the wire too hard and allows the seal to leak
There's a big problem with the differential electronic modules on Volvo's with water intrusion. The modules can be rebuilt and they recommend a new Haldax pump (or at least checking amp draw) and filter along with the module. The other problem that's pretty common is the pump seizing and taking the drivers in the DEM with it.
I love how my first initial thought on Ford Freestyle wasn't that Freestyle was the model, but rather what the owner was doing because there was no speedometer lol. Just freestyle it and go whatever speed seems right.
I think I would pull the servo motor out catching any unicorn fluid that came out to verify if the motor is sized or what ever. If servo sized great you got it. I bet it is in the rear diff itself with a 100k miles on it I bet it never got looked at got hot no lub etc in that event.... Wrecker special. I liked your process we use a very similar approach in our place. I guess at this point I would leave it un plugged to see if three are any further problems. Cool video.
It's the pump. Had a similar problem. And yes it's Volvo. I got mine for $220.00 for the pump from an online Ford parts dealer. To change the pump you have to drop the exhaust and drive shaft. This happens on Volvos and Volvo dealer ships know about this. Also there is a filter for the AWD rear diff Ford doesn't sell it but Volvo does. It is a Volvo rear end on these cars. Freestyle. Five hundred and Mercury Montigo. Great video
At the wire diagram I was total lost. And I was going to turn your video off. But I stayed and I'm glad I did. Thanks for posting Eric. You're the man.
Ford used the same Haldex unit as Volvo. The AOC pump is super commmon. You can buy the kit from Volvo, pump filter and fluid. Have to pull the exhaust, propshaft, and the coupler for the differential. FCP Euro will have the kit. Went through this with my daily driver. The DEM is common to fail as well and the company Xemodex can repair them if needed.
Good job proving and showing the fault. Thank you for hitting on the point of the additional repairs.. speed sensor. I could see that bitting in the but.
Hey Eric when you were under the car looking at the salt covered connector you can use rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and it will instantly clean the whole thing. Works on oily greasey wires too
Morning Eric O'. I had a similar issue once where the part was made by another MFG. The part was available but had to be ordered due to out-of-stocks. So, I thought myself let me try and find the OE part number and see if I can get it faster and cheaper so I could nock this out. After a long cross-reference session, I found it. It was available 24/7 but for the toon of like X3 the price, Wow! Who'd of thunk it that the original MFG direct cost was more then after selling it to another manufacturer. Thank god for Markdown pricing. Take Care now...
I would use same guess as that fuse feeds dem module and at the same time had a pump performance code which controlled by dem module that kept blowing a fuse. So you did very good!
Here's a video of TH-camr "volvosweden" doing a maintenance to the Volvo Haldex rear axle. He removes and opens the pump. Pump motor is a standard permanent magnet motor, with wired rotor and brushes. "volvosweden" found a lot of residue from the brushes inside the motor casing. Could that be one of the reason for a short circuit? He cleaned the motor with a brake clean. Oil gets dirty and drains out if you remove the pump altogether, not just the motor housing. Is is a very good idea to change it, if it has not been changed. You can also check if the pump is stuck by turning the rotor. If there is some crap stuck into the pump, it might dislodge by turning the pump to reverse direction. If the short is just brush residue, the it is easy to fix. If it is a burnt out and shorted out rotor, then no luck. Pump running current should be around 1,5. Event with stuck pump it should not go to 18A unless there is a short by burnt rotor or by brush residue. Ps. With older Haldex models (1-2) you need to take out the prop shaft to get the motor out. th-cam.com/video/uZNC06Z7imQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Eric! Just like your Breaker, fuses also take time to blow, and on a minor overload that time can be several minutes or more, so dont be too worried that your breaker of an equivalent rating is dangerous, its not, just make sure that if you do have an event where it trips quickly, give a few minutes for the wiring to cool off before going for round 2 and you will be fine. Wiring can handle a decent overload for a short time without issue usually.
This video was great. Over time, the work teaches you how to think. Especially loved it at the end where you said the customer blah blah would try to blame you for the 'other' problem you found. One thing I've learned in over 30 years of customer service: "Buyers are liars". I've all but stopped buying parts, instead tell customers to buy their own, when they come in, call me and I'll put the parts in. The liability for the parts is on THEM now. The shit you have to deal with in that climate is insane. Salt/Ice plus a cold garage? I'm surprised you still work in this environment! Wow. Good job though man. So, do you have a follow up video to this diagnosis?
It would be nice to see a follow up video. Was it just the pump motor? Did it need a wheel speed sensor also? It's like you tore the last page out of a who-done-it novel.
Great video as always Eric. Given your years of experience, knowledge and the “swag” method, that was a great diagnosis. I hope you get the job for the repair and look forward to watching that video. Stay warm
On a whim I checked on the Volvo Haldex unit that I believe matches the Freestyle rear diff. Apparently there is a filter above the pump housing that will clog over time causing the pump itself to draw too much voltage. Pump probably gummed up with debris. Commonly forgotten service item to change the filter and oil.. You are correct also that the diff only takes Volvo fluid and nothing else. The aftermarket site I was on had the whole module, filter and pump for $844.00. Yikes..
You have to remember back in the mid 2000's Volvo was owned by Ford and in turn Ford used the Haldex all wheel drive system that Volvo used in some of the S60, S80, and XC70 Volvo models. The Freestyle is based on the Ford 500(later called Taurus)platform and that 500(Taurus) is based on the Volvo S80 platform. My best guess is that the part would be roughly the same price whether you go through Ford or Volvo as the parts would come from Haldex. Might be best to see if you could get them from Haldex instead?
Volvo says that these Haldex units never need service. I changed the fluid and filter in my Volvo XC70 at 100,000 miles. The fluid was black and the filter was almost full of clutch material. Replaced the fluid and filter and the unit is working great 3 years later. The AWD system is functioning well, 13 years old and 140,000 miles.
Here i was taking an educated guess that it was the rear sway bar links causing all the prob!!. Just an educated guess on my part. lol. Nice find Eric narrowing down the culprit! Did the customer go with a used part or elect to keep the harness unplugged forever?
Its possible the motor is good and there is a bind in the differential. That will also cause a current spike and a new motor will do the same thing. Please post an update to this adventure. Thanks for a great video.
never torn one down, but considering it says oil pump in schematics and it being a differential, I'd assume the motor directly drives an "gerotor" style oil pump
I know this is an older vid and you may already been told this but here goes. Fuses are meant for short circuit protection (they can be time delayed for loads like solenoids) and breakers are meant for overload protection. Technically not much of a difference since both are high current but the difference is the time before protection is occurs.
Hey eric these are by far my favorite types of vids man. Love the detective work and your thought process. I learn so much from watching u work. Well stay warm im in utica and tonight and tomorrow is suppose to be 25 below even worse with windchill. Get ready to burn so fuel oil. Lol. Have good weekend
Have to love Fords thinking of putting all those electronics right where the snow and stuff collects. They had the same line of thinking on the fuel pump control modules on the trucks by the spare tire!
Process of elimination. Can't be done without schematic diagrams. Amp clamp was I nice add-on, but not needed. Just the circuit breaker or handful of 10A fuses. Nice one Eric.
You can find an aftermarket replacement pump for $200. Your favorite brand Dorman. I found a supposedly genuine Volvo part on Amazon for $280. but as others have suggested in the comments I would probably try to figure out why the pump failed, my guess would be that the filter or oil is bad and it's causing excessive drain on the pump. the super cheap option might be to just leave the pump unplugged and drive the car as it is if they didn't want to put the money in it.
Wow! you nailed that fault in no time at all, 19 amps bloody hell lol. in the past i've connected 2 x 60 watt car bulbs on wires to the fuse position, they go bright when the short is present. But your breaker button i really like :-D
Hope there is a Part II. I'm mighty curious about how you fill that puppy w oil as well! A couple yrs ago, I had a customer w kind of a similar problem, no blown fuses but just a light w a U code, and rear diff inop. Turned out to be the module. ( Kinda obvious. It had green water running out of it.) He lived with that and ran around with the light on and FWD, and I never saw it again.
Eric O that is a pre charge pump with a filter, the filter most likely clogged up and burnt the pump up, "This pump pre-charges the oil inside the AWD system assembly to allow the coupling to engage faster. This part is prone to failure on higher mileage cars or if regular maintenance in not performed."
I work at a Volvo dealership and those diffs are the same as the previous gen xc90s. The aoc pumps are super common. Dont usually see a short. More commonly the motors goes open but still they are gravy to do(expensive little buggers tho )
I kind of panicked when you were tapping the pump. I was like "oh no!" you're going to fix the problem by tapping it. haha. love your videos. your videos are always interesting and i'm always learning something new. =)
Hello Eric So I have the same problem with my 2006 Ford freestyle AWD. Were you able to get this vehicle fixed at the dealer if so what was wrong with it? Great Video.
I own a 2007 Freestyle with the CVT, great car but the transmissions are known to go, mine lost the variator seals so it was a rip and replace but with a rebuilt from Level10. The rear diff assembly is used when you need it for awd typically winter driving, the fluid should be changed at the maintenance schedule not sure of how many miles, but that was a great find and you might be better off getting a used one as they usually end up on the junk yard with the transmission blown and that pump is just waiting for you to pick it up much cheaper than the dealer. Plus the freestyle had 185k or so on it so it likely only worth in good condition retail 3k. They only made the cvt transmission for 3 years because of the all the issues with them. 2005 -2007 great vehicle otherwise.
I have had a fuse that looked open but tested OK with a multimeter. Still, it didn't look good so I stuck in a good fuse and fixed the problem. It must have had enough of a connection for the meter but could not carry the circuit current.
Your repair videos are more like mystery novels the way you present them. They entice me to watch to the end to see who done it. Great videos that have shown me how complicated modern cars are.
I have never seen anyone get excited over a blown fuse before. Nice repair. Keep it up.
it's always great to find a blown fuse, better yet one that keeps blowing fairly quick. it makes finding the issue like buttering corn :)
Eric, those "big fat guesses" are much more educated than you make it look! Love the logic flow and reasoning. Now I have to get one of those sweet circuit breakers :)
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah up those guesses come with experience.
Scientific Method, baby...even though Dr. O says he's no rocket surgeon
I love how methodical Dr. O’s troubleshooting is.
It's actually called a fuse saver not buddy. There is another device called a fuse buddy but it does something different. www.mactools.com/en-us/Diagnostics-and-Testing/Circuit-Fuse-Testers/32e70820-d02d-49fe-8055-a60a00f06c4d/Fuse-Savers-/ET8005-10A/Fuse-Saver-10-Amp
Possible Solution. Hope I can help Eric, I love your videos and I’d be delighted to think I could help. Looks like Haldex4 which as others have said is used on VW/Audi group, Ford, Volvo, Land Rover and a few more European marques. There’s a filter element under an aluminium cover with two 4mm Allen screws and also a gauze pre filter on the back of the pump. I bet the gauze and filter element are choked with crud and causing mechanical / hydraulic restriction of the pump. Pull the pump out and clean the gauze, see if that lowers the current draw. It’s a pain to get the filter cartridge out but I’ve discovered that if you remove the two screws on the filter cover and run the pump (normally bi directional control on scan tool will allow that but I guess you could jumper the pump if required) the hydraulic pressure will push the filter out of the housing so that you can replace that (don’t dig or gouge the white plastic spacer between the alloy cover and the filter cartridge, it may not be the same as the Volvo one which comes with the new filter but the filter element will be correct). On earlier VWs the filter was a service part but it’s not now! You can get one from Volvo here in the UK though. I prefer to have the pump and filter out at the same time and flush through the oil passages between filter and pump with compressed air then replace the Haldex oil. Good luck, looking forward to Part 2, regards Russie (Russell’s Garage, Inverness)
@Breaghasdad, Great advice, thumbs up, Nowadays they call it "lifetime"filling, but you have to maintain all equipment filled with oil.
Volvo tells you that the fluid and in the Haldex never needs replacement. I'm old school so I can't believe that so I serviced the Haldex unit at 160,000 km. We had to pull out the drive shaft on my 2005 XC70 to remove the filter. There is no drain plug so we had to crack open the case. Upon inspection, the fluid was filthy and the filter was almost plugged up. After replacing the filter and fluid and sealing up the case, the AWD system started working like new. 35,000 km later, the performance is still good. Always use the original Volvo supplied fluid as substitutions can lead to clutches failing in the unit.
160k km is probably past the expected lifetime Volvo had in mind. I'm pretty sure most manufacturers make cars to last around 150k km or 10 years whichever comes first.
Mines is a 2002 Ford Falcon (17 years with 460,000 km on the clock).
Gee it's like a Volvo Flame Trap for the rear end. With the same outcome. Blowing rear engine seals everywhere as I type.
Without giving away the fix, the video displays the importance of research. Your experience, logic and skill got us to the issue and it was an educational path. Thanks for bringing us along on this one, I enjoyed it very much.
I’m amazed with your work ethic. You can really tell you truly love your job! I wish all mechanics would put this much effort forth on dissecting problems, instead of assuming problems and throwing parts at it. Thank you for the videos. Keep them coming!
Difference between being good and lucky is experience. My take on the diagnosis to this point was all based on experience, which you have said. You my friend are just that good!
Eric i like the you way explain things and the way you keep your channel clean
Here I was all mad because my garage queen '07 Silverado is just starting to blister paint over the rear wheel wells ... and then I see the undercarriage of THIS! I feel a little better now. :D
Geesh ... barely over 100k, and a $430 driveline component takes a dump. Gotta love 21st Century manufacturing!
I like the look of Identifix's wiring diagrams. Once I get rolling here, I think I'm going to get a subscription there. Thanks for showing all of that!
Just got in from 7 hours of plowing, shoveling, and snowplowing a foot to 3 feet of snow (drifting like crazy). Of course, nothing is ever that easy around here. '94 s10 plow truck croaks on me way in the back yard (undercarriage on this loaf is 20x worse than that Freestyle!!). Luckily it was just the crappy "emergency" terminals my buddy threw on there when he owned it - gave 'em a tweak, and she fired right back up. THANK GOD!! I got stuck about 10x ... I'd get mad and hold the thing at 5 grand until it burned itself out of the hole I dug, lol - neighbors must love that, since my cat rotted right off the Y pipe - sounds like a 2-stroke Detroit with pipes, HAHAHA. Then, I had to get the Silverado out of the barn to get to my snowblower, which was buried under a mountain of junk ... then I see I had some parts taped to the engine that I was supposed to install this summer ... so had to throw those little bushings in the shift mechanism ... which then threw the shifter out of adjustment since they didn't have 1/2" of slop. Snowblower is an '88, and spent 8 years outside, uncovered before I got it, so that shift linkage was all rusted. Great! After that debacle, I finished the yard & driveway, went and shoveled & plowed my neighbors driveway, then FINALLY threw my winter wheels/tires on the Silverado, lol - better late than never, I say! :D
Excellent deductive skills, logic and experience working together.
Sometimes logical thinking is the best diagnostic tool. Nice job, Eric.
Gotta admire the work flow, you make it look very easy. There's nothing wrong with educated guessing, that's what makes the experienced techs so much more efficient. I made a circuit tester with circuit breakers and a buzzer/light to help with this kind of testing, though low amp breakers are a little hard to come by. The theme of simplifying the problem by dividing the circuit is a lesson that keeps coming back.
Hands down the best trouble shooting videos on TH-cam.
The logic you use before you even start is outstanding. I would get salt in my eye in the first 2 minutes.
37:00 Ford used it's subsidiary Volvo Haldex AWD unit. The best! It has best fuel economy as it only comes on when needed, rendering the freestyle 500 and Montego mostly fwd. There was a Ford or Volvo tuneup kit the owner needed to keep up at 60,000 miles. (Change Haldex filter & fine oil)
That’s what your load pro buddy said years ago, I guess he’s on top of it after all! (80/20) or something close to that! Thanks again for the time spent with us
Hey Eric, Thank you for all of your thoughts behind interacting with the customer. I'm not a mechanic, but I do my very best to be an educated customer. I bring all my vehicles to my auto mechanic for oil changes and filters, because I always offer to pay him for the time to look them over, stem to stern, looking for any potential 'show stoppers' (or car stoppers, more to the point.) I have had him say "your transmission cooling lines are rusting out... if they go, you won't." Worth every penny of $150. Thanks again!
Thanks for your knowledge. You saved me so much time. Had same issues today.
You can tell that vehicle has been WELL MAINTAINED!
You made an EDUCATED guess and were correct. You're good Eric! Excellent troubleshooting.
Great troubleshooting Eric. Love the way you showed how you followed the wiring schematic and went for the weather exposed component. Enjoy all your videos for various reasons from laughts to technique to tools used. I store them all in my noodle but sometimes they get lost up there. Great direction though thanks
Looks like the customer is kinda stuck at this point, car wont shift so undrivable, You cant go any further until a expensive part is installed to continue troubleshooting. Love to hear that conversation. Great troubleshooting by the way. Hope there's a follow up.
What’s the best clean up for a crusty salt connector...would power washing under the vehicle be a good idea?
Outstanding job Eric. Fully understand the need to touch base with the customer of the traction control light illumination whether or not there was a problem before the speedometer operation. Hope we can see the final repair
In modern cars it is more common that the ABS/ESC controller is the source of vehicle speed data. The ABS/ESC is reading all 4 wheel speeds already and the cluster is on the CAN so it allows OEMs to delete the trans output shaft sensor.
Hi Eric and the cast (Mrs O & Sheiba)
Glad to see 2018 will bring more real videos. You showed us the connector lock tab issue. I have broken more of thoes than I would like to admit to, but as you say sometmes virtually impossoble not to with aged plastic. As a repair I use a small zip tie in the figure 8 form both wire ends of the connector seems to work well. Great video please keep us in the loop regarding further repair.
never fails they break after a few years, zap straps(zip ties) are the quickest fix, just careful you don't smash the wires, leave it pinched and chaffing.
it can cause green crusties if it's breaks insulation or pulls the wire too hard and allows the seal to leak
There's a big problem with the differential electronic modules on Volvo's with water intrusion. The modules can be rebuilt and they recommend a new Haldax pump (or at least checking amp draw) and filter along with the module. The other problem that's pretty common is the pump seizing and taking the drivers in the DEM with it.
Nice job troubleshooting, I did it myself for years and its great to see someone else with the ability.
I love how my first initial thought on Ford Freestyle wasn't that Freestyle was the model, but rather what the owner was doing because there was no speedometer lol. Just freestyle it and go whatever speed seems right.
I think I would pull the servo motor out catching any unicorn fluid that came out to verify if the motor is sized or what ever. If servo sized great you got it. I bet it is in the rear diff itself with a 100k miles on it I bet it never got looked at got hot no lub etc in that event.... Wrecker special. I liked your process we use a very similar approach in our place. I guess at this point I would leave it un plugged to see if three are any further problems. Cool video.
It's the pump. Had a similar problem. And yes it's Volvo. I got mine for $220.00 for the pump from an online Ford parts dealer. To change the pump you have to drop the exhaust and drive shaft. This happens on Volvos and Volvo dealer ships know about this. Also there is a filter for the AWD rear diff Ford doesn't sell it but Volvo does. It is a Volvo rear end on these cars. Freestyle. Five hundred and Mercury Montigo. Great video
At the wire diagram I was total lost. And I was going to turn your video off. But I stayed and I'm glad I did. Thanks for posting Eric. You're the man.
Ford used the same Haldex unit as Volvo. The AOC pump is super commmon. You can buy the kit from Volvo, pump filter and fluid. Have to pull the exhaust, propshaft, and the coupler for the differential. FCP Euro will have the kit. Went through this with my daily driver. The DEM is common to fail as well and the company Xemodex can repair them if needed.
Appreciate your patient presentations. Will look in on your q n a on Wednesday 445 CST. Thanks. Gus from Wisc
Good job proving and showing the fault.
Thank you for hitting on the point of the additional repairs.. speed sensor. I could see that bitting in the but.
Nice explanation of wiring diagram and your diagnosis pathway.
I love these diagnostic videos!
Hey Eric when you were under the car looking at the salt covered connector you can use rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and it will instantly clean the whole thing. Works on oily greasey wires too
Morning Eric O'.
I had a similar issue once where the part was made by another MFG. The part was available but had to be ordered due to out-of-stocks. So, I thought myself let me try and find the OE part number and see if I can get it faster and cheaper so I could nock this out.
After a long cross-reference session, I found it.
It was available 24/7 but for the toon of like X3 the price, Wow!
Who'd of thunk it that the original MFG direct cost was more then after selling it to another manufacturer.
Thank god for Markdown pricing.
Take Care now...
Awesome diagnostic. When in doubt, follow the rust! Thumbs up.
Fantastic diagnosis
Standing ovation to you sir. *Clap Clap Clap.
I would use same guess as that fuse feeds dem module and at the same time had a pump performance code which controlled by dem module that kept blowing a fuse. So you did very good!
Seeing the problems you work through doesn't make me miss working on cars too much. The dripping salt water down your back, etc.
cold salt water isn't so bad, try getting under dripping sewage ;)
Great video. Happy that u mentioned afterwards, what u would've done if that wasn't the problem. Got to get myself a current clamp.
You're a beast! That fancy schmancy new camera is the bees knees. Workflow genius. Lookin' forward to part 2. As always, Thanks!
Here's a video of TH-camr "volvosweden" doing a maintenance to the Volvo Haldex rear axle. He removes and opens the pump. Pump motor is a standard permanent magnet motor, with wired rotor and brushes. "volvosweden" found a lot of residue from the brushes inside the motor casing. Could that be one of the reason for a short circuit? He cleaned the motor with a brake clean.
Oil gets dirty and drains out if you remove the pump altogether, not just the motor housing. Is is a very good idea to change it, if it has not been changed. You can also check if the pump is stuck by turning the rotor. If there is some crap stuck into the pump, it might dislodge by turning the pump to reverse direction. If the short is just brush residue, the it is easy to fix.
If it is a burnt out and shorted out rotor, then no luck. Pump running current should be around 1,5. Event with stuck pump it should not go to 18A unless there is a short by burnt rotor or by brush residue.
Ps. With older Haldex models (1-2) you need to take out the prop shaft to get the motor out.
th-cam.com/video/uZNC06Z7imQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Eric! Just like your Breaker, fuses also take time to blow, and on a minor overload that time can be several minutes or more, so dont be too worried that your breaker of an equivalent rating is dangerous, its not, just make sure that if you do have an event where it trips quickly, give a few minutes for the wiring to cool off before going for round 2 and you will be fine. Wiring can handle a decent overload for a short time without issue usually.
This video was great. Over time, the work teaches you how to think. Especially loved it at the end where you said the customer blah blah would try to blame you for the 'other' problem you found. One thing I've learned in over 30 years of customer service: "Buyers are liars". I've all but stopped buying parts, instead tell customers to buy their own, when they come in, call me and I'll put the parts in. The liability for the parts is on THEM now. The shit you have to deal with in that climate is insane. Salt/Ice plus a cold garage? I'm surprised you still work in this environment! Wow. Good job though man. So, do you have a follow up video to this diagnosis?
Nice diagnosis Eric and great explanation of dealing with customers & explaining repairs to them.
Wow that's crazy it sure looked like that fuse was blown. Great Job as always Eric.
Good logic on where to start! That saved a lot of time troubleshooting!
It would be nice to see a follow up video. Was it just the pump motor? Did it need a wheel speed sensor also? It's like you tore the last page out of a who-done-it novel.
Great Job. Like I've said before, I like the way you trouble shoot. You Sir are the best. You understand electricity and how to repair mechanic.
I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to explain things so well!
Love how you work. Each job you approach is like working on your own car, great job.
Great video as always Eric. Given your years of experience, knowledge and the “swag” method, that was a great diagnosis. I hope you get the job for the repair and look forward to watching that video. Stay warm
On a whim I checked on the Volvo Haldex unit that I believe matches the Freestyle rear diff. Apparently there is a filter above the pump housing that will clog over time causing the pump itself to draw too much voltage. Pump probably gummed up with debris. Commonly forgotten service item to change the filter and oil.. You are correct also that the diff only takes Volvo fluid and nothing else. The aftermarket site I was on had the whole module, filter and pump for $844.00. Yikes..
You have to remember back in the mid 2000's Volvo was owned by Ford and in turn Ford used the Haldex all wheel drive system that Volvo used in some of the S60, S80, and XC70 Volvo models. The Freestyle is based on the Ford 500(later called Taurus)platform and that 500(Taurus) is based on the Volvo S80 platform. My best guess is that the part would be roughly the same price whether you go through Ford or Volvo as the parts would come from Haldex. Might be best to see if you could get them from Haldex instead?
Can't remember the model sedan, but I was at my mechanics and he had a Volvo on the hoist.
In the rear cross member was stamped FoMoCo...
Ya know Eric, I would have done the same thing as it's the most "logical" root to take. You felt the "force" my young Jeteye! Happy New Year.
Volvo says that these Haldex units never need service. I changed the fluid and filter in my Volvo XC70 at 100,000 miles. The fluid was black and the filter was almost full of clutch material. Replaced the fluid and filter and the unit is working great 3 years later. The AWD system is functioning well, 13 years old and 140,000 miles.
needed a break from my headaches,thx god for another sma video,thx mr o.
Diagnosing like a champ good stuff eric.
To many devices on one fuse!
Anyway, good diagnostic procedure! Another great video, including Mrs. O and of course, the dogs.
We used to replace a lot of those oil pumps when they were under warranty.
Here i was taking an educated guess that it was the rear sway bar links causing all the prob!!. Just an educated guess on my part. lol. Nice find Eric narrowing down the culprit! Did the customer go with a used part or elect to keep the harness unplugged forever?
Its possible the motor is good and there is a bind in the differential. That will also cause a current spike and a new motor will do the same thing. Please post an update to this adventure. Thanks for a great video.
never torn one down, but considering it says oil pump in schematics and it being a differential, I'd assume the motor directly drives an "gerotor" style oil pump
I know this is an older vid and you may already been told this but here goes. Fuses are meant for short circuit protection (they can be time delayed for loads like solenoids) and breakers are meant for overload protection. Technically not much of a difference since both are high current but the difference is the time before protection is occurs.
Hey eric these are by far my favorite types of vids man. Love the detective work and your thought process. I learn so much from watching u work. Well stay warm im in utica and tonight and tomorrow is suppose to be 25 below even worse with windchill. Get ready to burn so fuel oil. Lol. Have good weekend
It’s been fun watching the kids and puppies getting bigger
Eric, I realize this is over a year old, but I'd love to know what happened with this car. Any update?
Have to love Fords thinking of putting all those electronics right where the snow and stuff collects. They had the same line of thinking on the fuel pump control modules on the trucks by the spare tire!
Process of elimination. Can't be done without schematic diagrams. Amp clamp was I nice add-on, but not needed. Just the circuit breaker or handful of 10A fuses. Nice one Eric.
Great video! A per the pump it is the same as Volvo, you can even find it on amazon and save some $.
You make it look so easy. This may take me a whole day. Bravo.
Love the video as I have a Freestyle with ABS and TC light on. You do a great job and are very informative. Thank You !!
You can find an aftermarket replacement pump for $200.
Your favorite brand Dorman.
I found a supposedly genuine Volvo part on Amazon for $280.
but as others have suggested in the comments I would probably try to figure out why the pump failed, my guess would be that the filter or oil is bad and it's causing excessive drain on the pump.
the super cheap option might be to just leave the pump unplugged and drive the car as it is if they didn't want to put the money in it.
A set of muffler bearings and 3 quarts of Quaker state antifreeze and Bob's ur uncle...fixes everything, thanks for the video.
Excellent work. Loved to watch you flow.
Great video, I’ve seen a bunch of rear diff pumps cause very similar symptoms on Audi’s with haldex clutches
Wow! you nailed that fault in no time at all, 19 amps bloody hell lol.
in the past i've connected 2 x 60 watt car bulbs on wires to the fuse position, they go bright when the short is present.
But your breaker button i really like :-D
looking for ward to part 2 learned so much from that video ! thanks again Eric 5 stars
Love the detailed explicitness
Excellent diagnosis!
cause abs codes on the freestyle are stored in the cluster, along with traction control codes, and the DEM module
Hope there is a Part II. I'm mighty curious about how you fill that puppy w oil as well! A couple yrs ago, I had a customer w kind of a similar problem, no blown fuses but just a light w a U code, and rear diff inop. Turned out to be the module. ( Kinda obvious. It had green water running out of it.) He lived with that and ran around with the light on and FWD, and I never saw it again.
Eric O that is a pre charge pump with a filter, the filter most likely clogged up and burnt the pump up, "This pump pre-charges the oil inside the AWD system assembly to allow the coupling to engage faster. This part is prone to failure on higher mileage cars or if regular maintenance in not performed."
Eric! Do you prefer the Astro 30SL or the 40SL? They both look fantastic and I would love your opinion! Love the videos!
I work at a Volvo dealership and those diffs are the same as the previous gen xc90s. The aoc pumps are super common. Dont usually see a short. More commonly the motors goes open but still they are gravy to do(expensive little buggers tho )
Iv noticed Eric your friend Ivan has got to you , I see you with a clip board now I even seen you write things down ,way to go Eric, oh good fix too
He even has a whiteboard like Jason from EngineeringExplained but he never uses it. ;-)
Not a bad idea - I need to carry a clip board everywhere I go. My brain is smoked, lol. Can't remember s**t! :D
bah, no fun writing things down when you can forget everything and redo the testing 10 times in a row
I make lists. They refer to other lists! LOL
@ blocki, Well he did use the whiteboard, you might be "new" here ?
I kind of panicked when you were tapping the pump. I was like "oh no!" you're going to fix the problem by tapping it. haha. love your videos. your videos are always interesting and i'm always learning something new. =)
Awesome diagnosis gives you a good startimg point. Just out of curiosity what do charge for your diagnostic services up there where you're at?
Hello Eric
So I have the same problem with my 2006 Ford freestyle AWD. Were you able to get this vehicle fixed at the dealer if so what was wrong with it?
Great Video.
Way to think through it! Nice job!
You know how to use the tools to troubleshoot! Great job. Watched the whole darn thing
Drove one of those a few years back.they are actutally kind of nice
Eric O., in the know!
I own a 2007 Freestyle with the CVT, great car but the transmissions are known to go, mine lost the variator seals so it was a rip and replace but with a rebuilt from Level10. The rear diff assembly is used when you need it for awd typically winter driving, the fluid should be changed at the maintenance schedule not sure of how many miles, but that was a great find and you might be better off getting a used one as they usually end up on the junk yard with the transmission blown and that pump is just waiting for you to pick it up much cheaper than the dealer. Plus the freestyle had 185k or so on it so it likely only worth in good condition retail 3k. They only made the cvt transmission for 3 years because of the all the issues with them. 2005 -2007 great vehicle otherwise.
I have had a fuse that looked open but tested OK with a multimeter. Still, it didn't look good so I stuck in a good fuse and fixed the problem. It must have had enough of a connection for the meter but could not carry the circuit current.
It takes a lot of knowledge to make it look it so easy.
I think they are not guesses, but experience, which has great worth in any industry.
You make it seem like a walk in the park. Great thinking on which module to check first