This wasn't a "stupid" video. As you said further into the video, this is what comes in. This is also what the people need to see. A cheap undersized battery just won't cut it. Great diagnosis and great customer service by you for sorting it out with the supplier.
The third, possibly the fourth time is the charm. You don't need to fluid film the hold down threads if you keep putting junk batteries in, they won't have time to rust. Modern problems require modern solutions!
I had a tech up sell plugs and wires on a truck. Customer said to me I don’t think the tech opened the hood and I said why would you say that? He said I did the plugs and wires last week! The following week I got rid of the bonuses on up selling parts and verified all request repairs were actually needed.
Funny you say that. I applied to a local dealership years ago. I wasn't hired because I was over qualified. Then a few years ago they called trying to recruit me. Needless to say I'm enjoying me retirement from wrenching.
Very thorough and conclusive diagnosis. Anecdotally, those 26 and 26R batteries were always problems. They might meet the minimum numbers but in real life they just don’t cut the mustard. Great job taking care of the customer, and earning a customer for life.
I used to be a service writer at Canadian tire. For those who aren't familiar, think of a harbour freight mixed with a jiffy lube but with actual licensed mechanics . I had a customer come in with a 2018 ford f-150, in 2019, with a bad alternator Their truck was 35 kilometres over its warranty. The local ford dealer refused to replace it. Bill came out to be $600 ish if we were to do it through us IIRC, and the customer was not thrilled. We would have had to get the alternator from them because it was so new. Call them up, call them out on their BS, so on and so forth. Basically, played poor me on behalf of the customer. After a bit, I convinced them to honour the warranty on good faith, and though that man wasn't my customer that day, he still returned after that for routine oil changes and gave our management great feed back. Though thats not the reason why I did it. Eric, you are the prime example of recognizing that not all shops are alike, and though they might have had a screw up, be it by lack of experience, or lack of care given, you still make it right and go above and beyond for your customers. Many of us, be it technicians or otherwise do take something from your videos and some of us do apply it in industry, in effort to break the generalization that all repairs shops are only there to make the dough and not care about their customers in the process.
Such a relatable video. Been in the trade for nearly 7 years and this really is the type of work that we see fairly regularly. I work in the Montreal area (Canada) and, after watching your stuff for the last 5-6 years, it seems like we have similar clients with similar issues. I know I can hop onto SMA and you've probably already logged a job that I might be struggling with. I truly appreciate your wealth of knowledge and your will to share with all of us. Thanks, Renato Testa
I dealt with this years ago with an 02 Saturn SL2. I bought a battery at Walmart (A NeverStart Maxx). Would last about two to 3 weeks, and then one day the battery would be dead, and you'd have to keep jumping it to get the car running. Had alternator and parasitic draw tests several times, and was told nothing was wrong with the car continuously; but batteries were testing bad every time failing to take a charge any longer. Went through 4 batteries in 6 months. Finally told Walmart to give me my money back for the Neverstart, and I went to Costco and bought an interstate battery. That battery lasted 6 years and I never had another problem. I would have sworn there was an issue with the car that was killing the batteries, but there wasn't.
Group 21 is a Japan thing. You also find them on Kubota RTVs and wheelchairs made in Japan. They have a bit higher CCA top end than group 35 and more than 3x the reserve capacity even though they are slightly smaller. The downside is that they are heavier than group 35 cells, but in capacity per weight, 21 is better which is why they are used for wheelchairs and such.
Never a stupid video! I love the parasitic draw videos. I’m fighting one now on a 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK and your videos are great to get ideas on how to track it down. Keep up the good work!
"what do you mean it's the wrong battery, it fits perfectly"....that was my life in the mid 80s when battery companies made a 40 month battery for 29.97 that had about 250 cold cranking amps...."It's just a winter rat" or "I am selling it in the spring" was their favorite line....you need the correct battery for your car no matter what, that is the lesson
I have been at 2 battery plants. These batteries come down the line, the same battery! They go to different labeling stations, one will get “premium “, another line will get “base”, another line will get “premium plus”, etc. The same battery as manufactured, but different labels. When you buy the premium you are pre paying for the warranty for them. But having said that “size does matter “, the correct size must be used. Info, for whatever it is worth. Good videos, thanks.
Holy smokes! I never thought about higher costs just being 'pre-payment' for the warranty and not necessarily for a 'better/best' battery. And obviously returning to the same brand if taking advantage of that warranty. I had always wondered about how manufacturing facilities managed purchasing raw materials and scheduled the mfg of different quality batteries...simple answer is 'warranty prepayment' for the same battery...but this might not be 100% true in all cases, because I noticed a huge difference in weight from an el cheapo battery to the 'golden' batteries that I have lifted.
@@cmans79tr7 Yes, the battery will be different depending on it's capacity. But when they come down the line they become Company A - Premium , Company B - Base, etc, They all are the same sometimes between company a and b is only a sticker.
So years ago, my little brother got his first second hand car. He kept on calling me to go and give him a jump start as his battery was always flat after being left for a few hours. I eventually got fed up and did what any decent big brother would do and locked him in the boot of his car ! I then asked him if the courtesy lamp was still on and when he said that it was I just pulled out the bulb, problem solved. . . . I am still a hero to this day, ha ha.
Great video. I used to have a VW Jetta diesel where if I parked it for a day during our mild winter it would not likely turn over. Everything checked out as fine with the exception of the battery not having a full charge when I would have it tested (a couple of times). I had purchased the battery during the summer, and it had worked fine until the temps dropped. I finally had an epiphany when I thought about how inexpensive the battery that I had fairly recently purchased was when compared to what I had bought in the past. I had bought a battery for a gasoline Jetta rather than a diesel Jetta. Lesson learned.
My Accord had a lawnmower sized battery that died. I looked up replacements and found a variety of options. I saw that the battery tray was much bigger than the original battery, and the bracket just had a couple tabs to hold the smaller battery in position, so I just bought the most powerful battery I could find that would fit the tray and had the correct pole orientation, bent the bracket's retaining tabs out of the way, and voila, plenty of CCAs for those frozen MN mornings.
UK here. I've always gone for the Diesel version of the battery if it would fit as the extra cost wasn't that much more than the smaller petrol version.
Honda should be ashamed of themselves I have the same problem with these little tiny batteries. They tend to have a 3-year life span. The group 24 fits in perfectly well as long as you just bend down the tab and the hold down. Honda figured they could save 20 bucks a car times 400,000 units and it would be enough to last the warranty. They operate just like GM that's a shame
I buy the 5 year warranty batteries as in my part of the world -40 isn't uncommon. I've had full replacement every time and so end up getting two batteries for the price of one over its lifetime. In my case it's better to pay the extra $40 for the longer warranty.
This is a great video because this is real. I’ve got customers who will put the cheapest crap in their cars and then when it doesn’t work they come to me.
I would rate this one "electrifying" but not "shocking" :) Was still good to see how you reached your 'replace the battery' conclusion. Keep 'em coming, Eric. Thank you.
Ah! The Old Install The Wrong Group Battery Trick. That'll bite you on the butt, most times. Great Diag Work! You didn't let the car have you "hopping down bunny trails".
I used to just disconnect one battery cable from the battery, hook up a set of jumper cables to the battery and loose cable, and run the other end to the driver door with a test light between the clamps. Make sure the "door open" switch was disabled, and pull fuses one by one until the test light goes out. Easy peasy!
There are so many electronic components on these vehicles that I’m Amazed you can hunt these things down. A Lot of Repair Shop aren’t as Advanced as your Shop. 👍
Always good to watch your videos Eric. Customer should be very happy with you that you went above and beyond with the parts store to sort out the battery issue. Nice work.
For most battery warranties, you should get the warranty second from the best. Assuming your vehicle is in good operating condition, these batteries will have a good service life. Most batteries are made the same so you can be a price shopper here but don't go below second best if you don't have to. If money is an issue, go to a junkyard. Sometimes you can get a deal there. If your old battery died, get your alternator tested. If your alternator goes bad and your battery is more than a year old you should replace it if possible. Weak alternators and batteries put a drain on the lives of each other. Have your battery tested in the fall and when the weather starts to warm up. Heat and cold don't make batteries die, it's the change of temperature that makes them short out on the inside. Be sure you get the right battery for your vehicle, it makes a difference.
Eric, you should be an Interstate Battery dealer . When I was in business I sold a lot of them because of their name and reputation . There is a good profit margin in that battery line !
Eric, I had a similar situation with my dad's Volvo. 3 new batteries from the NAPA. Legend batteries. First one dead in 2 months. 2nd one was dead in 3 months. 3rd one has been in there 4 years. Local NAPA owner took good care of me. Both bad ones would not even take a full charge on his charger. He said sometimes they get a few lemons.
Hi, Mr. O. sometimes the customer isn't telling the whole story. Luckily for them, you can usually figure it out anyway. Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
@@dustintunis9347 Regardless of the field of work, we always listen to the customer, but rarely trust them. Back when I had my computer shop, I had a customer complain her new PC built by us didn't turn on. She brought it back, and of course it worked fine. She took it home, and annoyed called back and said it wouldn't turn on. I said I'd be glad to come by and look, and if need be, I'd give her a new one. I did ask if she was experiencing any electrical problems, and she said no. I asked it it was plugged into the wall outlet, or a surge protector, she said the wall. When I got there, sure enough, the PC did not turn on. I then asked to borrow a lamp to test the outlet. Sure enough, the outlet was dead. Turns out it blew a breaker. As to why I don't know, I told her to call an electrician, and never plug a PC into it again without a surge protector.
I bought a used car a few years ago from a private party, had the wrong battery in it. Similar situation, put the correct battery in it, new cables and issues went away. Well I'll be dipped, Daughter is still driving it. Love the logic Eric, and the happy customer.
A little bit of leg work, you are knowing it's not the right size battery, and about an hour's worth of your time and advance picking up the difference in the cost of the right battery, put a few bucks in your pocket. That's how it's done. Not to mention your customer is happy! I've watched hundreds of your videos as I no longer work. Not by choice either. I like them all.
You had it easy..so did ivan at pine hollow.. these are still good vids. Some people out there are new to this driving hobby, maybe they needed to see where the engine resides..
So I take my taxi into the shop. "The alternator has blown again" I say. "I've only just had a new one" I say. Mechanic checks his records. My alternator is 7 years old! I feel foolish.
My 2004 Toyota Corolla is still on its original alternator at 240000 miles. I had to put brushes in the starter a couple years ago. It has had 3 batteries replaced and the one in it now is at least 7 years old. It was totaled in 2014 and still drives as good as it ever did. We have never had a major repair on it and very few minor repairs.
I have a friend that anytime he needs parts goes to the store tells them what he needs then asks if they have anything cheaper they always have something like 1/2 or less the price of the first part quoted, yes those parts are total trash and if you buy it you will need to replace it in a few months but he doesn’t care he is just flipping a car and it will be someone else’s problem. You do get what you pay for although sometimes I think the more expensive part is the same as the cheaper one just in a different box.
Probably they left the lights on once or didnt drive for a while when it was cold, since a drained battery has weak acid it probably froze and got damaged internally. People bring this kinda thing to me so often and swear up and down that their battery is new etc... Good work Eric!
I enjoy your videos. Here’s a tip, when you have a nut/bolt in a tight place and don’t want to lose it, you can use 3/8 magnet in your socket to hold the nut/bolt. Let me know how that works for you.
When people ask me for advice about cranking problems the first thing I always point to is the battery. If they tell me "but it's a brand new battery" I'll tell them "brand new batteries can be bad" and then tell them to get the battery load tested. In a close second place are the cable connections to the battery.
I am also from the "Rust Belt", where it gets COLD. If you want your car to start in winter, then you MUST have a new and powerful battery. At 10° F your car battery has half the power it does at 80° F, _and_ the cold oil flows like molasses. An engine that cold takes _twice_ as much force to crank it over. A huge number of old batteries do not have the power to start cars on cold mornings. When I worked at the General Motors Final Assembly plant in Detroit, everyone _knew_ that you bought only the most powerful batteries, and changed to winter oil December 1st.
Great video as always Dr. O! You putting the terminals on the battery reminds me of a pet peeve of mine, when you get a car in to work on and terminals are barely around the terminals and yet, they cranked the hardware down all the way. The male side of the terminals are tapered, and either most folks don't know that, don't care or are simply too lazy. I always appreciate it that you do things right, even when it seems to be insignificant.
I Can't agree with you more, Eric. As a retired mechanic, I've seen countless times when a customer has had battery problems only to hit up the local "Wally-World for the cheapest battery they have then a couple years later they are stranded somewhere right in the middle of winter. That 2015 Sentra requires a battery with a 'minimum' of 640 CCA and I doubt that little DieHard is even close. Keep these wonderful videos coming. I must say, it is really great to know there are mechanics out there whom make the extra effort to do fair and honest work and take care of their customers as you always do. May God bless you and your family always. Have a great day.
I agree with Rob none of your videos are ''stupid''.Them cheap Advance Auto Parts battery's are like the Valuecraft or Econocraft battery's are at Autozone JUNK.Again great video Eric O. as always.
Advanced Auto many years ago did have a "Gold" series battery under their name, then they bought the Die Hard name for several Billion dollars from Sears. The battery manufacturer has always been the same. The highest level battery that can be purchased is the AGM version, it has the most cold cranking amps and primarily for vehicles with all the electronic premium features. Then it steps down to Platinum, Gold and Silver. I recommend the AGM especially for the colder climate areas like where I'm located.
We have a 1998 Nissan Frontier, purchased in 2004 for daughters to drive and learn 5-speed. A few years in, we started have issues with the battery suddenly dying, happened every few months, and battery would not take charge/pass test at parts store so we got free replacement. Then one day daughter remarked that sometimes when turning the key that the dash warning lights would come on before the key reached the "start" or "run" position, then go out until the appropriate position was reached. I wasn't able to locate a replacement electrical part of ignition switch available that day, so I installed a 30-amp toggle switch to interrupt the voltage flow before the ignition switch, and that solved the immediate problem. A few months later we were installing new speakers and the key was on the floor but we hadn't flipped the toggle switch over to "open" the circuit, and suddenly electrical stuff came on by itself (key on the floor), confirming nutty electrical part of ignition switch. Replacement of the electrical part of ignition switch was straightforward, and OK to this day.....
I had a parasitic draw on an 05 expedition. Happened once every few weeks. Turned out to be the rear wiper not returning to the stop after use. Stayed on even with the key off.
Mr. O, the best part of this video, was watching you drop the front battery hold down. I was like a pro, like Mr. O does that, I am an amateur, and I am not even in the same ballpark, in auto mechanical work as you are. Now, I can hold my own with a lot of the electrical you do. Although, I am a big guy, and wouldn't fit in most of the places you crawl into. I am an electrician by trade, but did 4 years in vo-tect in component wiring, and then Penn state, 1st semester motors and low voltage circuit. Fun things, like looking at voltage across an oscilloscope, It's cool if you never scene it, you have to be a little nerdy about voltage though I guess. But Great video as always Mr. O.
Not a strange video at all sir. It's a great example of customer miscommunication, general lack of automotive mechanical operation and sometimes how that might translate into unfounded accusations of fraud against a repair shop. SMAC is the best educational site for the general public vehicle owner EVER.
I had a similar issue once and I spray painted the battery gold and stenciled the word 'professional' on it and that fixed the problem. Works great now.
Also, Mr. O., Great point, abut hooking up you amp meter, in line to get your amp reading. If you don't know what your doing with a multi-meter don't do it.. You can literally catch 1 on fire. I seen a kid do it in votech. Now, it may have been on purpose, I don't judge. But a voltmeter, is a different animal, within your meter, it has a few million ohms (resistance) going through it. You can put it right on the circuit and most of the time nothing will happen. But if you try to check amps like that you will fry your meter at the very least. Just use the clamp if your trying to get a quick yes or no if there is power there. But once again great points and great video.
Nice to see a pro like you struggle with those danged hold downs. My eldest's Vibe fights me tooth and nail anytime I have to move/remove the battery. I think next time I'll just start with the cussing since that's where I eventually get.
I have similar in a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 wagonlet (love the thing), fortunately do not live in the rust belt so cars this old are still safe to drive thankfully but it uses a similar type of hold down as seen here, but fortunately also, one end bolts to a stud that's on the inner fender so it's not difficult to deal with as I've had to remove it a time or two.
Another Vibe owner here...I gave up and hooked the hook thingy to the bottom of the battery. Does nothing but I figure the other parts will keep the battery from falling out
I have always gone for the highest CCA battery for both my cars when replacing them also I run a solar panel that puts a trickle charge on the car that I don't drive all the time as new cars need a small draw to keep all the electronics alive & that if not attended to will give you a dead battery .(the panel sits inside the vehicle & plugs into what was called the cigarette lighter outlet.) This is a good video as most people go for the cheapest battery & like this customer end up paying more over time than if they had bought the best battery it is probably more critical where yyou are in that really cold weather . Great community service Cheers Eric.
Friends car had similar symptoms - was not the battery or draw. Car would usually restart shortly after driving, while hot etc. After being parked might or might not start. Turned out alternator belt had been replaced with 1 slightly to long. Fully adjusted was almost right - but not tight enough. Depending on (electrical) load while driving the battery would actually be discharging (no belt noise). Car kept going, no charging error. Figured it out when we realized issue always showed up after night driving - when head lights were being used. Changed belt and correct adjustment solved the problem.
That battery had been a battery for tp long , 6 months , the supplier should be embarrassed at selling such junk , over the pond we dont have many batteries held by those style of clamps , most just held down by a clamp on the centre of the base of the battery , only some Japanese type vehicles with rod style clamps , great video showing your professional approach to diagnostic faults , great approach with the suppliers to pay the difference to get the upgrade on the battery 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I've got a 2 year Walmart battery on my Toyota matrix that has been on for 4 years and 3 months. Been dead as a doornail several times. Even used the lawnmower to charge it up enough to get it started once.
My next door neighbour has a 2012 Chevy Captiva (UK spec) with a similar issue. It wouldn't accept a jump start. He got a new battery and asked me to fit it. The old battery was not the correct one and was smaller so no wonder it had gone bad. The moral of this story is to always fit the correct (or higher) spec battery.
Excellent advice, I go with bigger than calls for. Can't go wrong with a battery that's bigger than necessary. Unless you have to cut a hole in the hood.
Ain't it sad that good mechanics are so hard to come by they had to go through all that bullshit before they got to ya. That's why I keep watching, that and bc you got a magnetic personality, make watching the technicals easy and not boring at all. I'd drive 1000 miles through the rust belt to come see ya but fortunately I got a work friend that's willing to bail me out. Mechanics here in NOLA burned me bad man. $3500 to screw up the timing and ultimately engine in my Nissan. $2200 and some elbow grease to replace it entirely. Guys like you are a blessing when we can find them. In a sea of Neanderthals with scan tools, you wear the fkn badge of honor
If the stated problem isn't acting up at the time, there isn't much that can be done to find it. The videos you post are as far from stupid as they can be. Each one is filled with information whether the problem is found. Keep up the good work.
Your best tool tip ever. That Weller heat gun is really useful. Especially when some thief cut the harness with 50 wires in it when stealing a ECU. That and the wire crimp/stripper are really handy. Thanks for the tips.
Car batteries, in the USA, are made by three companies. Johnson Controls(50%), East Penn and Stryten. Most are the same, with different brands on the label. You pay for the warranty.
Eric O’…Great job sorting it out. Did you see the one where customer says, “Passenger door will not latch”? Sunglasses in arm rest under Door handle! LOL
Been there, done that! Hope a lot of normal drivers watch this video to clear up misconceptions! Sometimes IT REALLY is that easy a fix! Abattery in today's vehicles is the main ingredient for all electronic to work correctly and should always be checked first when diagnosing.
If I replace my battery I never put the group size that came in it back in. Measure the battery tray check for clearance and put a larger higher capacity one in AGM of course. Most battery trays will accommodate a much larger battery. My Jeep Patriot calls for a group 56 but put a 31 in it.
Hi Eric. Once again you’re right on target . Your focus was on the battery from the start . All though you got all the story’s from the customer. And the scanner. A other great lesson for us all . Get the right battery designed for the car . 👍🛠⚒🔧
My 7 year old Motorcraft battery finally went down. I replaced it with the oem battery from the dealer. I was waiting to see if you were going to use Fluid Film! Thanks to this channel I bought Fluid Film and use it on everything. Thank you for that tip!
I often wish that you could be THE GUY that works on my cars. When you make a mistake I get the feeling you'd tell me!!! Maybe that's why Mrs. O hangs in there with you!!! ♥
Couple of yrs ago the Napa person told me not to buy their batteries because I'd just come back and yell at them like everyone else. They said all new batteries are junk. Used to buy Wallymart batteries but they started crapping out early so switched to Costco which has the best warranty in Canada and haven't had any problems since.
I was a nissan master tech and with 15 years at nissan i can count on one hand the times i had a legitimate battery draw issue with a nissan. Ive seen more battery draw issues in the 3 years ive been with gm than i ever saw at nissan
I look forward to every video you make. This is truth of the real world problems. This video likely helped someone. I've been guilty of using the wrong size battery before in my tractor cause I didn't want to pay the price for one that was made for it.
This wasn't a "stupid" video. As you said further into the video, this is what comes in. This is also what the people need to see. A cheap undersized battery just won't cut it. Great diagnosis and great customer service by you for sorting it out with the supplier.
El cheapo customer.
@@vblic or a customer that mistakenly believed "... a battery is a battery is a battery..."
Or a counter guy making his sales quota by selling the battery he has in stock.
@@budc2578 More likely.
Couldnt have said it better.
Wow! It's awesome that you took the initiative to deal with the parts store and get the correct battery. Very nice Mr. O!
david if you add an I we might be related Larry Zielkowski
The third, possibly the fourth time is the charm. You don't need to fluid film the hold down threads if you keep putting junk batteries in, they won't have time to rust. Modern problems require modern solutions!
They wouldn’t let you work at a dealership… Your lack of upselling would make them cry in their latte🤣
LMAO so true. Nobody gets paid unless the customer gets laid! 😂😂😂😂
I had a tech up sell plugs and wires on a truck. Customer said to me I don’t think the tech opened the hood and I said why would you say that? He said I did the plugs and wires last week! The following week I got rid of the bonuses on up selling parts and verified all request repairs were actually needed.
@@mikemaccracken3112 did you fire the tech?
Funny you say that. I applied to a local dealership years ago. I wasn't hired because I was over qualified. Then a few years ago they called trying to recruit me. Needless to say I'm enjoying me retirement from wrenching.
@@mikemaccracken3112 I think you spelt "tech" incorrectly, in this case it should have been spelt "THIEF"
Don’t apologize for a weird video. These are the best kind because they teach us a lot about the simple things in auto repair. Great job.
Day to day in an honest, competent shop. That's the difference.
Very thorough and conclusive diagnosis.
Anecdotally, those 26 and 26R batteries were always problems. They might meet the minimum numbers but in real life they just don’t cut the mustard.
Great job taking care of the customer, and earning a customer for life.
Wish every mechanic was as honest and good as you.
Dude you're killing it lately! Lots of different and interesting content, even the "stupid" ones. Keep up the great work.
I used to be a service writer at Canadian tire. For those who aren't familiar, think of a harbour freight mixed with a jiffy lube but with actual licensed mechanics . I had a customer come in with a 2018 ford f-150, in 2019, with a bad alternator Their truck was 35 kilometres over its warranty. The local ford dealer refused to replace it. Bill came out to be $600 ish if we were to do it through us IIRC, and the customer was not thrilled. We would have had to get the alternator from them because it was so new.
Call them up, call them out on their BS, so on and so forth. Basically, played poor me on behalf of the customer. After a bit, I convinced them to honour the warranty on good faith, and though that man wasn't my customer that day, he still returned after that for routine oil changes and gave our management great feed back. Though thats not the reason why I did it.
Eric, you are the prime example of recognizing that not all shops are alike, and though they might have had a screw up, be it by lack of experience, or lack of care given, you still make it right and go above and beyond for your customers. Many of us, be it technicians or otherwise do take something from your videos and some of us do apply it in industry, in effort to break the generalization that all repairs shops are only there to make the dough and not care about their customers in the process.
Such a relatable video. Been in the trade for nearly 7 years and this really is the type of work that we see fairly regularly. I work in the Montreal area (Canada) and, after watching your stuff for the last 5-6 years, it seems like we have similar clients with similar issues. I know I can hop onto SMA and you've probably already logged a job that I might be struggling with. I truly appreciate your wealth of knowledge and your will to share with all of us.
Thanks,
Renato Testa
I always put in a better level of battery, those amps are important on real cold days!
Appreciate you, brother.
I dealt with this years ago with an 02 Saturn SL2. I bought a battery at Walmart (A NeverStart Maxx). Would last about two to 3 weeks, and then one day the battery would be dead, and you'd have to keep jumping it to get the car running. Had alternator and parasitic draw tests several times, and was told nothing was wrong with the car continuously; but batteries were testing bad every time failing to take a charge any longer. Went through 4 batteries in 6 months. Finally told Walmart to give me my money back for the Neverstart, and I went to Costco and bought an interstate battery. That battery lasted 6 years and I never had another problem. I would have sworn there was an issue with the car that was killing the batteries, but there wasn't.
Battery is no good in its "current" condition..... Haha........... Nice one Eric......
Knowing the real story is a big help too ! ! ! 👍👍👍👍😊😊👍👍👍👍
Group 21 is a Japan thing. You also find them on Kubota RTVs and wheelchairs made in Japan. They have a bit higher CCA top end than group 35 and more than 3x the reserve capacity even though they are slightly smaller. The downside is that they are heavier than group 35 cells, but in capacity per weight, 21 is better which is why they are used for wheelchairs and such.
Never a stupid video! I love the parasitic draw videos. I’m fighting one now on a 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK and your videos are great to get ideas on how to track it down. Keep up the good work!
Eric
you are the Cardiologist of car repair
"what do you mean it's the wrong battery, it fits perfectly"....that was my life in the mid 80s when battery companies made a 40 month battery for 29.97 that had about 250 cold cranking amps...."It's just a winter rat" or "I am selling it in the spring" was their favorite line....you need the correct battery for your car no matter what, that is the lesson
I have been at 2 battery plants. These batteries come down the line, the same battery! They go to different labeling stations, one will get “premium “, another line will get “base”, another line will get “premium plus”, etc. The same battery as manufactured, but different labels. When you buy the premium you are pre paying for the warranty for them. But having said that “size does matter “, the correct size must be used. Info, for whatever it is worth. Good videos, thanks.
Holy smokes! I never thought about higher costs just being 'pre-payment' for the warranty and not necessarily for a 'better/best' battery. And obviously returning to the same brand if taking advantage of that warranty. I had always wondered about how manufacturing facilities managed purchasing raw materials and scheduled the mfg of different quality batteries...simple answer is 'warranty prepayment' for the same battery...but this
might not be 100% true in all cases, because I noticed a huge difference in weight from an el cheapo battery to the 'golden' batteries that I have lifted.
@@cmans79tr7 Yes, the battery will be different depending on it's capacity. But when they come down the line they become Company A - Premium , Company B - Base, etc, They all are the same sometimes between company a and b is only a sticker.
We like seeing videos like this Eric / It's real life
So years ago, my little brother got his first second hand car. He kept on calling me to go and give him a jump start as his battery was always flat after being left for a few hours. I eventually got fed up and did what any decent big brother would do and locked him in the boot of his car ! I then asked him if the courtesy lamp was still on and when he said that it was I just pulled out the bulb, problem solved. . . . I am still a hero to this day, ha ha.
Great video. I used to have a VW Jetta diesel where if I parked it for a day during our mild winter it would not likely turn over. Everything checked out as fine with the exception of the battery not having a full charge when I would have it tested (a couple of times). I had purchased the battery during the summer, and it had worked fine until the temps dropped. I finally had an epiphany when I thought about how inexpensive the battery that I had fairly recently purchased was when compared to what I had bought in the past. I had bought a battery for a gasoline Jetta rather than a diesel Jetta. Lesson learned.
I always buy the big diesel batteries whenever I can get them to fit. 800CCA is no joke!
My Accord had a lawnmower sized battery that died. I looked up replacements and found a variety of options. I saw that the battery tray was much bigger than the original battery, and the bracket just had a couple tabs to hold the smaller battery in position, so I just bought the most powerful battery I could find that would fit the tray and had the correct pole orientation, bent the bracket's retaining tabs out of the way, and voila, plenty of CCAs for those frozen MN mornings.
UK here. I've always gone for the Diesel version of the battery if it would fit as the extra cost wasn't that much more than the smaller petrol version.
Any Honda call for. Small 51R but most can fit a 24F with a larger hold down
@@Graham_Langley I didn't go for a particular type, just the base measurements and pole orientation, and got a 3 year warranty 750 CCA unit that fit.
Honda should be ashamed of themselves I have the same problem with these little tiny batteries. They tend to have a 3-year life span. The group 24 fits in perfectly well as long as you just bend down the tab and the hold down. Honda figured they could save 20 bucks a car times 400,000 units and it would be enough to last the warranty. They operate just like GM that's a shame
I buy the 5 year warranty batteries as in my part of the world -40 isn't uncommon. I've had full replacement every time and so end up getting two batteries for the price of one over its lifetime. In my case it's better to pay the extra $40 for the longer warranty.
This is a great video because this is real. I’ve got customers who will put the cheapest crap in their cars and then when it doesn’t work they come to me.
I would rate this one "electrifying" but not "shocking" :) Was still good to see how you reached your 'replace the battery' conclusion. Keep 'em coming, Eric. Thank you.
Ah! The Old Install The Wrong Group Battery Trick. That'll bite you on the butt, most times.
Great Diag Work! You didn't let the car have you "hopping down bunny trails".
I used to just disconnect one battery cable from the battery, hook up a set of jumper cables to the battery and loose cable, and run the other end to the driver door with a test light between the clamps. Make sure the "door open" switch was disabled, and pull fuses one by one until the test light goes out. Easy peasy!
There are so many electronic components on these vehicles that I’m Amazed you can hunt these things down. A Lot of Repair Shop aren’t as Advanced as your Shop. 👍
Always good to watch your videos Eric. Customer should be very happy with you that you went above and beyond with the parts store to sort out the battery issue. Nice work.
Here I am cold smoking some 10 pounds of dry salt cured bacon and watching SMA on the phone...good day so far
That kinda early morning for ya fella? Smoke morning!
Is that all you're smoking?
@@edwardmyers1746 13:17 in my neck of the woods
@@user-wj9wq7mk4h and Pall Mall
For most battery warranties, you should get the warranty second from the best. Assuming your vehicle is in good operating condition, these batteries will have a good service life. Most batteries are made the same so you can be a price shopper here but don't go below second best if you don't have to. If money is an issue, go to a junkyard. Sometimes you can get a deal there. If your old battery died, get your alternator tested. If your alternator goes bad and your battery is more than a year old you should replace it if possible. Weak alternators and batteries put a drain on the lives of each other. Have your battery tested in the fall and when the weather starts to warm up. Heat and cold don't make batteries die, it's the change of temperature that makes them short out on the inside. Be sure you get the right battery for your vehicle, it makes a difference.
I ran across that more than once! Thanks!
Eric, you should be an Interstate Battery dealer . When I was in business I sold a lot of them because of their name and reputation . There is a good profit margin in that battery line !
Eric, I had a similar situation with my dad's Volvo. 3 new batteries from the NAPA. Legend batteries. First one dead in 2 months. 2nd one was dead in 3 months. 3rd one has been in there 4 years. Local NAPA owner took good care of me. Both bad ones would not even take a full charge on his charger. He said sometimes they get a few lemons.
Total junk batteries for sure. Probably had been sitting around too long.
Lots of short trips with lots of power use (stereo, ac) and a small (wrong) battery. Nice work Watson
...no s#*t Sherlock 🕵️♂️😏
Hi, Mr. O. sometimes the customer isn't telling the whole story. Luckily for them, you can usually figure it out anyway. Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
Best channel on TH-cam! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
It's about time you got an easy one Eric.
Happy New Year!
It would have been an easy one if the customer didn't initially insist it wasn't the battery.
@@dustintunis9347 Regardless of the field of work, we always listen to the customer, but rarely trust them. Back when I had my computer shop, I had a customer complain her new PC built by us didn't turn on. She brought it back, and of course it worked fine. She took it home, and annoyed called back and said it wouldn't turn on. I said I'd be glad to come by and look, and if need be, I'd give her a new one. I did ask if she was experiencing any electrical problems, and she said no. I asked it it was plugged into the wall outlet, or a surge protector, she said the wall. When I got there, sure enough, the PC did not turn on. I then asked to borrow a lamp to test the outlet. Sure enough, the outlet was dead. Turns out it blew a breaker. As to why I don't know, I told her to call an electrician, and never plug a PC into it again without a surge protector.
@@Joseph1NJ ID10T
I bought a used car a few years ago from a private party, had the wrong battery in it. Similar situation, put the correct battery in it, new cables and issues went away. Well I'll be dipped, Daughter is still driving it. Love the logic Eric, and the happy customer.
A little bit of leg work, you are knowing it's not the right size battery, and about an hour's worth of your time and advance picking up the difference in the cost of the right battery, put a few bucks in your pocket. That's how it's done. Not to mention your customer is happy! I've watched hundreds of your videos as I no longer work. Not by choice either. I like them all.
You had it easy..so did ivan at pine hollow.. these are still good vids. Some people out there are new to this driving hobby, maybe they needed to see where the engine resides..
So I take my taxi into the shop. "The alternator has blown again" I say. "I've only just had a new one" I say. Mechanic checks his records. My alternator is 7 years old! I feel foolish.
Only 7 years? The one in my old pickup is 25 years old
My 78 caprice is original. Only runs summertime.
My 2004 Toyota Corolla is still on its original alternator at 240000 miles. I had to put brushes in the starter a couple years ago. It has had 3 batteries replaced and the one in it now is at least 7 years old. It was totaled in 2014 and still drives as good as it ever did. We have never had a major repair on it and very few minor repairs.
I have a friend that anytime he needs parts goes to the store tells them what he needs then asks if they have anything cheaper they always have something like 1/2 or less the price of the first part quoted, yes those parts are total trash and if you buy it you will need to replace it in a few months but he doesn’t care he is just flipping a car and it will be someone else’s problem. You do get what you pay for although sometimes I think the more expensive part is the same as the cheaper one just in a different box.
Probably they left the lights on once or didnt drive for a while when it was cold, since a drained battery has weak acid it probably froze and got damaged internally. People bring this kinda thing to me so often and swear up and down that their battery is new etc... Good work Eric!
Had my glove box light on ,I could not see it until it was dark . I shut the box and it solved the problem .
You also need detective skills as well as mechanical skills to provide great service, thanks for sharing
I enjoy your videos. Here’s a tip, when you have a nut/bolt in a tight place and don’t want to lose it, you can use 3/8 magnet in your socket to hold the nut/bolt. Let me know how that works for you.
When people ask me for advice about cranking problems the first thing I always point to is the battery. If they tell me "but it's a brand new battery" I'll tell them "brand new batteries can be bad" and then tell them to get the battery load tested. In a close second place are the cable connections to the battery.
I am also from the "Rust Belt", where it gets COLD. If you want your car to start in winter, then you MUST have a new and powerful battery. At 10° F your car battery has half the power it does at 80° F, _and_ the cold oil flows like molasses. An engine that cold takes _twice_ as much force to crank it over. A huge number of old batteries do not have the power to start cars on cold mornings. When I worked at the General Motors Final Assembly plant in Detroit, everyone _knew_ that you bought only the most powerful batteries, and changed to winter oil December 1st.
An old friend always said check the simple shit 1st. Good advice!
Jay the Florida pool pump motor repair guy. When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info 2 see& know👨🔧good job !!SMAR
I can relate to this and they always buy the cheapest battery why so when it’s 19 below it won’t start great video as always Eric
If I can fit a larger battery in I do.
Same thing with cheap battery jumper cables that melt the insulation when you try to jump a car
SMA is top of the line! Best auto repair channel on the internet. Thanks for the videos!
Great video as always Dr. O! You putting the terminals on the battery reminds me of a pet peeve of mine, when you get a car in to work on and terminals are barely around the terminals and yet, they cranked the hardware down all the way. The male side of the terminals are tapered, and either most folks don't know that, don't care or are simply too lazy. I always appreciate it that you do things right, even when it seems to be insignificant.
Mine as well, I wish Optima made a battery to fit all cars and trucks
Yes, tapered.
Happy 2923 to you and mrs. O, Love your videos. Thanks for all you do.
I Can't agree with you more, Eric. As a retired mechanic, I've seen countless times when a customer has had battery problems only to hit up the local "Wally-World for the cheapest battery they have then a couple years later they are stranded somewhere right in the middle of winter. That 2015 Sentra requires a battery with a 'minimum' of 640 CCA and I doubt that little DieHard is even close. Keep these wonderful videos coming. I must say, it is really great to know there are mechanics out there whom make the extra effort to do fair and honest work and take care of their customers as you always do. May God bless you and your family always. Have a great day.
I agree with Rob none of your videos are ''stupid''.Them cheap Advance Auto Parts battery's are like the Valuecraft or Econocraft battery's are at Autozone JUNK.Again great video Eric O. as always.
Putting the battery hold down bracket on was the most difficult part of that job!
Putting 4 hooks in a HMMWV with 2 batteries and aligning the top bracket good stuff
Advanced Auto many years ago did have a "Gold" series battery under their name, then they bought the Die Hard name for several Billion dollars from Sears. The battery manufacturer has always been the same. The highest level battery that can be purchased is the AGM version, it has the most cold cranking amps and primarily for vehicles with all the electronic premium features. Then it steps down to Platinum, Gold and Silver. I recommend the AGM especially for the colder climate areas like where I'm located.
We have a 1998 Nissan Frontier, purchased in 2004 for daughters to drive and learn 5-speed. A few years in, we started have issues with the battery suddenly dying, happened every few months, and battery would not take charge/pass test at parts store so we got free replacement. Then one day daughter remarked that sometimes when turning the key that the dash warning lights would come on before the key reached the "start" or "run" position, then go out until the appropriate position was reached. I wasn't able to locate a replacement electrical part of ignition switch available that day, so I installed a 30-amp toggle switch to interrupt the voltage flow before the ignition switch, and that solved the immediate problem. A few months later we were installing new speakers and the key was on the floor but we hadn't flipped the toggle switch over to "open" the circuit, and suddenly electrical stuff came on by itself (key on the floor), confirming nutty electrical part of ignition switch. Replacement of the electrical part of ignition switch was straightforward, and OK to this day.....
I had a parasitic draw on an 05 expedition. Happened once every few weeks. Turned out to be the rear wiper not returning to the stop after use. Stayed on even with the key off.
Interesting. Never thought about that.
I swear SMA had a video on this exact issue, don't think it was an expedition though.
@@CheezeCracker he did one on a Ford Escape with that problem and so did Fordtechmakuloko
I think Ivan at pine hollow auto diagnostics had a similar case a good while back.
How much was that draw...or were you able to measure it??
Mr. O, the best part of this video, was watching you drop the front battery hold down. I was like a pro, like Mr. O does that, I am an amateur, and I am not even in the same ballpark, in auto mechanical work as you are. Now, I can hold my own with a lot of the electrical you do. Although, I am a big guy, and wouldn't fit in most of the places you crawl into. I am an electrician by trade, but did 4 years in vo-tect in component wiring, and then Penn state, 1st semester motors and low voltage circuit. Fun things, like looking at voltage across an oscilloscope, It's cool if you never scene it, you have to be a little nerdy about voltage though I guess. But Great video as always Mr. O.
Not a strange video at all sir. It's a great example of customer miscommunication, general lack of automotive mechanical operation and sometimes how that might translate into unfounded accusations of fraud against a repair shop. SMAC is the best educational site for the general public vehicle owner EVER.
I had a similar issue once and I spray painted the battery gold and stenciled the word 'professional' on it and that fixed the problem. Works great now.
Also, Mr. O., Great point, abut hooking up you amp meter, in line to get your amp reading. If you don't know what your doing with a multi-meter don't do it.. You can literally catch 1 on fire. I seen a kid do it in votech. Now, it may have been on purpose, I don't judge. But a voltmeter, is a different animal, within your meter, it has a few million ohms (resistance) going through it. You can put it right on the circuit and most of the time nothing will happen. But if you try to check amps like that you will fry your meter at the very least. Just use the clamp if your trying to get a quick yes or no if there is power there. But once again great points and great video.
Nice to see a pro like you struggle with those danged hold downs. My eldest's Vibe fights me tooth and nail anytime I have to move/remove the battery. I think next time I'll just start with the cussing since that's where I eventually get.
I have similar in a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 wagonlet (love the thing), fortunately do not live in the rust belt so cars this old are still safe to drive thankfully but it uses a similar type of hold down as seen here, but fortunately also, one end bolts to a stud that's on the inner fender so it's not difficult to deal with as I've had to remove it a time or two.
I had a Corolla (same engine bay as a Vibe) and the amount of cursing that damn battery tie down elicited out of me would boggle the mind.
Another Vibe owner here...I gave up and hooked the hook thingy to the bottom of the battery. Does nothing but I figure the other parts will keep the battery from falling out
I have always gone for the highest CCA battery for both my cars when replacing them also I run a solar panel that puts a trickle charge on the car that I don't drive all the time as new cars need a small draw to keep all the electronics alive & that if not attended to will give you a dead battery .(the panel sits inside the vehicle & plugs into what was called the cigarette lighter outlet.) This is a good video as most people go for the cheapest battery & like this customer end up paying more over time than if they had bought the best battery it is probably more critical where yyou are in that really cold weather . Great community service Cheers Eric.
Friends car had similar symptoms - was not the battery or draw. Car would usually restart shortly after driving, while hot etc. After being parked might or might not start. Turned out alternator belt had been replaced with 1 slightly to long. Fully adjusted was almost right - but not tight enough. Depending on (electrical) load while driving the battery would actually be discharging (no belt noise). Car kept going, no charging error. Figured it out when we realized issue always showed up after night driving - when head lights were being used. Changed belt and correct adjustment solved the problem.
NEVER A BAD VIDEO! Love them all and I thank you!
That battery had been a battery for tp long , 6 months , the supplier should be embarrassed at selling such junk , over the pond we dont have many batteries held by those style of clamps , most just held down by a clamp on the centre of the base of the battery , only some Japanese type vehicles with rod style clamps , great video showing your professional approach to diagnostic faults , great approach with the suppliers to pay the difference to get the upgrade on the battery 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I've got a 2 year Walmart battery on my Toyota matrix that has been on for 4 years and 3 months. Been dead as a doornail several times. Even used the lawnmower to charge it up enough to get it started once.
My next door neighbour has a 2012 Chevy Captiva (UK spec) with a similar issue. It wouldn't accept a jump start. He got a new battery and asked me to fit it. The old battery was not the correct one and was smaller so no wonder it had gone bad. The moral of this story is to always fit the correct (or higher) spec battery.
Excellent advice, I go with bigger than calls for. Can't go wrong with a battery that's bigger than necessary. Unless you have to cut a hole in the hood.
I love how he didn’t even flinch when the horn started blowing as he hooked the neg cable 😮 nerves of steel lol
Ain't it sad that good mechanics are so hard to come by they had to go through all that bullshit before they got to ya. That's why I keep watching, that and bc you got a magnetic personality, make watching the technicals easy and not boring at all. I'd drive 1000 miles through the rust belt to come see ya but fortunately I got a work friend that's willing to bail me out. Mechanics here in NOLA burned me bad man. $3500 to screw up the timing and ultimately engine in my Nissan. $2200 and some elbow grease to replace it entirely. Guys like you are a blessing when we can find them. In a sea of Neanderthals with scan tools, you wear the fkn badge of honor
@Garrettgifts it's also so fucking sad the only people that see my shadow banned comments these days are walking pieces of human shit.
If the stated problem isn't acting up at the time, there isn't much that can be done to find it.
The videos you post are as far from stupid as they can be. Each one is filled with information whether the problem is found.
Keep up the good work.
Your best tool tip ever. That Weller heat gun is really useful. Especially when some thief cut the harness with 50 wires in it when stealing a ECU. That and the wire crimp/stripper are really handy. Thanks for the tips.
Car batteries, in the USA, are made by three companies. Johnson Controls(50%), East Penn and Stryten. Most are the same, with different brands on the label. You pay for the warranty.
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
Eric O’…Great job sorting it out. Did you see the one where customer says, “Passenger door will not latch”? Sunglasses in arm rest under Door handle! LOL
Been there, done that! Hope a lot of normal drivers watch this video to clear up misconceptions! Sometimes IT REALLY is that easy a fix! Abattery in today's vehicles is the main ingredient for all electronic to work correctly and should always be checked first when diagnosing.
Eric O, with the upsell, FTW! SCORES!
This video made me laugh when the negative was connected, and your commentary lol!
If it comes back check the drivers door pin switch. Give the door frame a gentle push from the inside and watch the dome light. Notorious on Nissan’s
If I replace my battery I never put the group size that came in it back in. Measure the battery tray check for clearance and put a larger higher capacity one in AGM of course. Most battery trays will accommodate a much larger battery. My Jeep Patriot calls for a group 56 but put a 31 in it.
I always did the same thing, especially when I lived up north.
Hi Eric. Once again you’re right on target . Your focus was on the battery from the start . All though you got all the story’s from the customer. And the scanner. A other great lesson for us all . Get the right battery designed for the car . 👍🛠⚒🔧
Eric, this is an excellent video on checking the basics, thank you for sharing.
My 7 year old Motorcraft battery finally went down. I replaced it with the oem battery from the dealer. I was waiting to see if you were going to use Fluid Film! Thanks to this channel I bought Fluid Film and use it on everything. Thank you for that tip!
.
This was great. Routine is always interesting. Great work Eric. Keep warm!
Good video. Ran into this issue a few yrs. ago with a used car purchase! Easy is ok sometimes!
I often wish that you could be THE GUY that works on my cars.
When you make a mistake I get the feeling you'd tell me!!!
Maybe that's why Mrs. O hangs in there with you!!! ♥
Master does it again. Its nice to get the real facts from the customer isn't it. well done.
Couple of yrs ago the Napa person told me not to buy their batteries because I'd just come back and yell at them like everyone else. They said all new batteries are junk. Used to buy Wallymart batteries but they started crapping out early so switched to Costco which has the best warranty in Canada and haven't had any problems since.
Costco near me sells Interstate batteries.
I'd rather have quality than warranty myself. Warranty doesn't do you a bit of good at 2 AM, -12, in the rain.
@@stevewhite3424 if its raining at -12, you got bigger worries than your battery!! LOL
This is a really good video. Be honest with your mechanic and give him as much info as possible! It will save you money by saving the mechanic time.
I was a nissan master tech and with 15 years at nissan i can count on one hand the times i had a legitimate battery draw issue with a nissan. Ive seen more battery draw issues in the 3 years ive been with gm than i ever saw at nissan
Knowledge, experience and honesty are priceless, as are your videos. Thank you for sharing... 😊
I look forward to every video you make. This is truth of the real world problems. This video likely helped someone. I've been guilty of using the wrong size battery before in my tractor cause I didn't want to pay the price for one that was made for it.