I actually got mentioned by name in a TH-cam video for the very first time! Thanks, and do I get a cut of your residuals now? LOLOLOL! So glad to hear you got the JIS screwdrivers. It's so much like night and day compared to Phillips. Next - think about getting one of those little magnet things to increase or demagnetize immediately, at will. I have one to the left of my bench (stuck on my fuel oil barrel) and I grab it all the time to change the magnetism on screwdrivers (and other tools once in a while). Works great and really increases the usefulness of screwdrivers in varying situations. Since it's a magnet it's easy to hang up just about anywhere. No applause please - just throw your nickels up on the stage. :)
A great video on the Husqvarna blower the machine was asking for help i am learning to get them running still they need some TLC work and maintenance hopefully everything is good and customer is happy with results
Enjoy the channel. I believe a two stroke has everything it needs to start, minus more air, if it pops on choke. I never use recommended start procedures because they’re only a guideline. I do always stop pulling the starter on choke when it pops off. If flooding, I pull the trigger full throttle while starting and it fires up eventually.
Here I am again, Mr. Critical! ;-) I came to very different diagnostic conclusions throughout your video, Ray, and I'll detail them so you can see where I'm coming from and how I got there. 1:00 Test Start #1 - Fired several times on FIRST PULL, but you pulled again twice more per instructions. I'll explain why I think that was wrong. Since it fired first pull, that indicates the engine has Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing and Spark (FACTS!!!). Those second and third pulls while still on full choke flooded it and is what kept it from firing again despite multiple pulls at half choke. My thinking is as follows - despite what the mfr says about number of pulls on and off choke, metering diaphragms, unless brand new, usually have some stiffness to them and will continue to work until they get really stiff. That slight stiffness in this specific case may have been pressing very lightly on the needle lever, causing extra fuel to flow right from the start, so further pulls only flooded the carb, causing a too rich mixture condition, soaking the plug and cylinder and preventing starting. All further next tests (compression, spark plug, coils, air gap) were unnecessary as the engine had all that it needed but wouldn't start for the above mentioned reason. Any findings during those tests were either very good (compression) and expected, or minor enough not to make a real difference, at least in this case. 13:09 Test Start #2 - Duplicated exactly the same 3 full choke pulls despite the engine once again firing well on the very first pull - same explanation as above for failure. 14:24 "Might be flooding out". Yup - you were on the right track there! ;-) Further tests (changing out perfectly good fuel, messing with L & H adjustments) and swapping out new parts supplied - all again unnecessary per my original explanation. 26:55 Test Start #3 - Same flawed start method - plug wet again! New plug but this time DIDN'T choke, which by this time WAS needed because you emptied the cylinder by tipping over and repeated pulls without the plug in. Engine did try to start with the tiny bit of residual fuel in the cylinder, but it was only very brief single fires which burned up that fuel until there wasn't any available and it wouldn't fire at all. 30:23 Spark Arrestor - this was a good call, but still would probably have not caused the engine not to run for at least a few seconds until the back pressure from the blockage caused the engine to either bog on throttle or die completely. This was a good catch, but I really don't think it was the actual reason for the engine not to run for at least a short while during all three initial start attempts. 36:18 Test Start #4 - Finally started and ran first pull, without choke, but on almost full throttle, probably due to a minute amount of fuel in the carb already and also because the increased airflow through the Venturi was pulling fuel more readily. What I take away from this is something I pretty much already knew - mfr instructions are based on original new equipment with novice owners who need complete guidance at first (but probably aren't knowledgeable enough to understand the nuances discussed here). Once you realize an engine will run if you can get it to fire strongly, then immediately going partial or off choke and increased throttle will usually do the trick. One other thing I've recently modified in my explanations to people about "FACTS" - Air is critical, but not only through the intake. AirFLOW is a better word to use because both intake AND exhaust air are necessary for an engine to run correctly. Ray, if you have any wisdom or criticism of my input, I'm all ears! For me it's all about learning and diagnostics. Thanks for a great video - it got me to really clarify some concepts I've not given full thought to previously, so it certainly was worth watching for me. I'm also very happy to have input from any viewers, of course!
Those are all very good points and well thought out. I might try to get it back to test the pull number theory. The audio issue I had made it difficult for viewers to see accurately too unfortunately. I really thought I had it with the coil test….. hard lesson to learn and lots of wasted time. Should have used my stihl starting methods
What should carb settings need to be for start up. H-1 full turn open and L- 1 full turn open ? Someone has change the settings on me and the screws are way off. Thanks
I actually got mentioned by name in a TH-cam video for the very first time! Thanks, and do I get a cut of your residuals now? LOLOLOL!
So glad to hear you got the JIS screwdrivers. It's so much like night and day compared to Phillips.
Next - think about getting one of those little magnet things to increase or demagnetize immediately, at will. I have one to the left of my bench (stuck on my fuel oil barrel) and I grab it all the time to change the magnetism on screwdrivers (and other tools once in a while). Works great and really increases the usefulness of screwdrivers in varying situations. Since it's a magnet it's easy to hang up just about anywhere. No applause please - just throw your nickels up on the stage. :)
I appreciate you Rein! And thanks for the tip. Pretty sure I have one
A great video on the Husqvarna blower the machine was asking for help i am learning to get them running still they need some TLC work and maintenance hopefully everything is good and customer is happy with results
Yes he was. Crazy I missed the simple solution
Enjoy the channel.
I believe a two stroke has everything it needs to start, minus more air, if it pops on choke.
I never use recommended start procedures because they’re only a guideline. I do always stop pulling the starter on choke when it pops off. If flooding, I pull the trigger full throttle while starting and it fires up eventually.
I did try that as well. Might have been edited out though.
Thank you so much!
Here I am again, Mr. Critical! ;-) I came to very different diagnostic conclusions throughout your video, Ray, and I'll detail them so you can see where I'm coming from and how I got there.
1:00 Test Start #1 - Fired several times on FIRST PULL, but you pulled again twice more per instructions. I'll explain why I think that was wrong. Since it fired first pull, that indicates the engine has Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing and Spark (FACTS!!!). Those second and third pulls while still on full choke flooded it and is what kept it from firing again despite multiple pulls at half choke. My thinking is as follows - despite what the mfr says about number of pulls on and off choke, metering diaphragms, unless brand new, usually have some stiffness to them and will continue to work until they get really stiff. That slight stiffness in this specific case may have been pressing very lightly on the needle lever, causing extra fuel to flow right from the start, so further pulls only flooded the carb, causing a too rich mixture condition, soaking the plug and cylinder and preventing starting.
All further next tests (compression, spark plug, coils, air gap) were unnecessary as the engine had all that it needed but wouldn't start for the above mentioned reason. Any findings during those tests were either very good (compression) and expected, or minor enough not to make a real difference, at least in this case.
13:09 Test Start #2 - Duplicated exactly the same 3 full choke pulls despite the engine once again firing well on the very first pull - same explanation as above for failure.
14:24 "Might be flooding out". Yup - you were on the right track there! ;-)
Further tests (changing out perfectly good fuel, messing with L & H adjustments) and swapping out new parts supplied - all again unnecessary per my original explanation.
26:55 Test Start #3 - Same flawed start method - plug wet again! New plug but this time DIDN'T choke, which by this time WAS needed because you emptied the cylinder by tipping over and repeated pulls without the plug in. Engine did try to start with the tiny bit of residual fuel in the cylinder, but it was only very brief single fires which burned up that fuel until there wasn't any available and it wouldn't fire at all.
30:23 Spark Arrestor - this was a good call, but still would probably have not caused the engine not to run for at least a few seconds until the back pressure from the blockage caused the engine to either bog on throttle or die completely. This was a good catch, but I really don't think it was the actual reason for the engine not to run for at least a short while during all three initial start attempts.
36:18 Test Start #4 - Finally started and ran first pull, without choke, but on almost full throttle, probably due to a minute amount of fuel in the carb already and also because the increased airflow through the Venturi was pulling fuel more readily.
What I take away from this is something I pretty much already knew - mfr instructions are based on original new equipment with novice owners who need complete guidance at first (but probably aren't knowledgeable enough to understand the nuances discussed here). Once you realize an engine will run if you can get it to fire strongly, then immediately going partial or off choke and increased throttle will usually do the trick.
One other thing I've recently modified in my explanations to people about "FACTS" - Air is critical, but not only through the intake. AirFLOW is a better word to use because both intake AND exhaust air are necessary for an engine to run correctly.
Ray, if you have any wisdom or criticism of my input, I'm all ears! For me it's all about learning and diagnostics. Thanks for a great video - it got me to really clarify some concepts I've not given full thought to previously, so it certainly was worth watching for me.
I'm also very happy to have input from any viewers, of course!
Those are all very good points and well thought out. I might try to get it back to test the pull number theory. The audio issue I had made it difficult for viewers to see accurately too unfortunately. I really thought I had it with the coil test….. hard lesson to learn and lots of wasted time. Should have used my stihl starting methods
@@RayofallTrades
If you do ever get it back it would be great to see your testing! An idea for another video! 😉🔧👍
@@Rein_CiarfellaI did talk to him and he has been using the 3 pull method and it fires up every time now. I know that would not work on a stihl
What should carb settings need to be for start up. H-1 full turn open and L- 1 full turn open ? Someone has change the settings on me and the screws are way off. Thanks
That would be a good start. 3/4-1 each
That would be a good start. 3/4 to 1 turn each from bottom