Hyundai Air Conditioning Repair, Time to Fix the Line * PART 1 of 2 *
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2021
- This is Part 1 of 2 fixing a no a/c complaint on a Hyundai Santa Fe. Sometimes it takes just a quick visual inspection to find the problem. Thanks for checking out the video. -Glen (Ozz)
**Part 2 Hyundai No A/C Complaint: • Get Your Hyundai Air C...
Automotive Air Conditioning Kit Manifold Set and Vacuum Pump
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Automotive Air Conditioning Kit Manifold Set and Vacuum Pump
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Ozz,
I have a 2014 Santa Fe. I have been chasing my tail for a couple days with a AC issue. Long story short I’ve replaced the compressor and filter drier and have the same issues as before the replace.
With the car running and AC on my pressures are the same. I’ve added a full can of 134a from -30 vaccum and I’m at 90psi.
My question is why is my compressor not pumping?
The compressor came with 3oz of oil and from the chart that came with the compressor it needed a total of 4.4 so I added 1.4 to the compressor.
Could to much oil causes this issue?
Again why is my compressor not pumping?
Thanks in advance
Nice job Glen finding the leak. Like you said, I have gone to hydraulic shops for hose repair too. Thanks and take care
Nice work and I enjoyed the information you shared about the system.
I've had issues with hoses before. Good work.
Awesome video man. Thanks and keep up the good work. I appreciate the troubleshooting steps.
Thanks Frank!
Great work Glen! Just a few tips I picked up over the years. I always use blue Nylog on o’rings as it seals and lubricates although the refrigerant oil is fine too. Fill the system with nitrogen at 200 psi and use ultrasonics as it’s a great way to find even very small leaks. And I always hate leaks especially the one where the entire system is empty. It’s a guessing game of how much oil to put back into the system. Have a great evening! 😀👍
Never heard of Nylog. You have all the pro stuff Terry!
Good video! My car is 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS, currently at 125k. About a month ago it wasn’t blowing cold air so I decided to use one of this refrigerant cans and accidentally put to much in the system. Had to take it to a shop so they evacuated the whole system, changed the expansion valve and refilled it. It didn’t seem to work cause a/c was working but not getting cold air as it should. Now I’m having this issue with my RPM at idle when the A/C is on. It also have this little noise coming from the blower motor, but it only seems to happen when idling. Car runs smooth, but at red lights or stop signs RPM goes down and it becomes shaky and then this noise from the blower motor comes out (it only happens when a/c is on).
Also replaced the throttle body, coils, spark plugs, MAP sensor, PCV valve because of this rough idle, and right now IDK what else to do with this. Dealer was asking for $550 for just a diagnosis and I don’t trust them anymore, so I’m running out of ideas
Very well explained with lots of detail Enjoyed the video Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
The bottom 10mm nut sometimes seizes up if it has never been removed. I suggest soaking the nut a few times with WD40, letting it sit awhile and getting a firm grip with a 10mm ratchet wrench so you don't round off the nut with an open ended 10mm like I did 🎉
Also I'd like the see if this guys had the same problem I did.
@glendickens1013 it's a tough nut to bust.
@@ozzstars_cars it sure was but I managed to break it loose. I was getting a little worried about rounding the flats. I said a little prayer and turned the wrench and I finally saw the nut break loose. Gods good 👍
I'm glad I'm not the only one who talks to hardware. Nice when it works (like the 10mm hex that didn't fall) because you seem less bonkers that way ;)
And when the hardware is dropped the conversation tends to get much more "interesting". 😄
Great summary and good find! It always surprises me how often one can fix problems, with a little common sense. There are many videos here on TH-cam, some by professionals, explaining how to do AC repairs wrong. The most common errors are to put compressed air into the system, and inadequate vacuum after the system is cleared. Both allow water into the system, which slowly messes things up by freezing and thawing water in the wrong place, caused by the normal huge swings of pressure.
So true. When I was editing the footage I realized that I should have mentioned one of the benefits of evacuating the system of moisture is a big deal. Compressed air isn't the best to test but it does beat wasting the refrigerant. Dave do you use nitrogen?
@@ozzstars_cars Good point, few of us have nitrogen on hand. The last time I did this I used 100% argon (it is on my welder) for an AC flush. As you point out there are lots of other options, including UV dye mixed with refrigerant to find a leak. I am surprised how inexpensive Chinese knockoff refrigerant leak testers are now. Better yet, do as you did by looking for the oil leak!
This video was exactly what I was looking for. My 2013 Santa Fe had the same issue. I have worked on my own cars for 45 years and this is the first time that I have had an air conditioner issue on one of my cars. The oil leak on the hose was not obvious and I thought it was just road grime. Even with fluorescent dye, it wasn't really obvious. However, the oil/dirt was on the hose and I replaced it.
Mine has the 2.0 Turbo, so the hose is a little different. It was not very hard to start the nut back.
I would strongly suggest, since it was something that I didn't do, is to spray the connection at the compressor with cleaner or compressed air. Dumb move on my part, but I was thinking about the rest of the job. When I pulled the hose out of the compressor, mine had a some "gunky" stuff fall on the floor. Took me a bit longer to ensure that none had fallen into the port. CLEAN THE CONNECTION before removing the hose.
I also used orange thread locker on the upper and lower nuts when I put them back on.
Ran a vacuum for 1 hour and then closed up the system and still had -28 psi on the closed system 45 minutes later.
Charged it up and system was putting out 44.5 degree air with outside air @ 92 degrees.
Thank you for the time that you spent making the video. Saved me a lot of time!
Glad the video was helpful Bobby, keep staying cool!
Great job Glen
I do a lot of Auto A/C work myself. Great video.
Thanks Rich
Nicely done Glen ✔
👍
Thank you for clarifying that it didn’t even need a single dugga
Thanks for the vids. I need to recharge my 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, so I went looking for the connectors. The H connector was right where the video showed it, but the L connector was back on the firewall, not down below the alternator-I was lucky to spot it
I only mention this because it suggests a tube of a different shape-people may have to specify that to their jobber
Any comment?
@@jimpetersMontreal because the Santa Fe you worked on is a 4 banger, not the 3.3L V6.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks!
That suction line off the compressor was so common on these, along with the Santa fee sport and sonata. I lost count of how many of them I’ve done
Gravy diag when you see the oil on the hose. Definitely a defect!
The AC swith and Air blower in and out is working fine but the problems all the small lights related to these boutms are not lighted and Ac working with out it when I press it.also the passenger window lift side is not working . (SANTAFE 4WD 2015
Good job, my friend I have problem on air condition it’s coming high I can’t to make slow. I checked for fuses and still no change for that. I go to many mechanical air they didn’t finde the problem. My car is azera 2016
Has the blower motor module been tested? Prbably duty cycled. The modern version of an old school blower motor resistor.
Now comes the the fun part of how much oil to put back in.
All lubed up
Very helpful.. I have the same car and I got the same problem and just ordered a new discharge line..
Did you add oil to the system after changed the line?
No I did not add any additional oil. Evacuated and refilled with R134A. Thr system has been working perfect since. This happens to be my wife's car.
First-time viewer. A few diagnostic steps and info I would have given in the video, you did not seem to raise the idle while sitting in the cabin to see if vent temps would change. When seeing 5 PSI you did not mention what PSI you are expecting at the current ambient temperature. Thanks for the diagnosis and repair on the line. Have you thought to make playlists based on the Manufacturer of the vehicles?
Valid points Duane. Unfortunetly the videos can't be too long and some things needed to be edited out. Thanks for stopping by the channel!
Thank you for your detailed videos Glen. I am in the middle of doing the same repair and had a quick question. For the lower 10mm bolt, did you remove it while under the car or use a ratchet extension and get it from the top? I'm having a little trouble getting in there and every video I come across skips the actual removal of the line haha
Removed from underneath the car. It is to tight of an area to film and a bitch to get a grip on.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you! I was finally able to get the bottom end off. Now moving on to evacuating the system
damn good video! thank you sir
You got it!
Thank you for sharing. I have problem with 3rd row AC doesn't work. Can you share idea how to fix it?
That is nearly impossible to diagnose over the internet.
Buddy I have a 2009 Elantra with the same fitting by the high pressure port that I can not get apart like it is seized. Any tips? Heat maybe?
Did you try tapping lightly with a soft faced hammer?
❤❤❤thanks
Why don’t people trust aftermarket? My thinking is that if OEM part fails then we know it’s trash, so we definitely don’t want that one again, so why not try a different brand? As their ones could be better… excellent video anyway helped me a lot!
Sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn't.
Are all r134a low pressure nipples the same size for all makes? Is ford r234a nipple same as Hyundai?
Yes they are standard high and low pressure ports.
My 2005 hyundai accent does not have a A/C the garage said A/c was not put in 2005,s car,is that true?
Sorry but I don't believe what they are telling you.
Hi, i have a 2010 santa fe. The charge is ok and compressor is spinning. But the air coming out of vent is not cold. I touched the suction line under the hood heading into the evaporator and it's not cold. Can it be a bad expansion valve? Thanks
Did you hook up the manifold gauges to do a proper diagnosis?
Thanks for your reply. I bought one of those refrigerant bottle kit with a gauge. When hooked up with power car off it shows that the charge was ok.
@mark.r you need to check the low and high side pressures in order to get the necessary data. On newer vehicles a bidirectional scan tool can also help with data.
Hi I'm your new subscriber, I would like to ask if it is normal to experience the Lower Pressure line sweating during A/C operating?
Yes it can with certain temperature and humidity conditions. Thanks for the sub!
My AC sometimes blows cold, sometimes blows hot. Any suggestions?
This video I posted might help th-cam.com/video/SQfH19-xKFk/w-d-xo.html
Greetings for u from Iraq
Another method is check the Hyundai part number with Kia. Many of the parts are the same and slightly cheaper.
True. Good advice!
Its crazy this newer car would have ac issues..
Of course when the warranty is over.
Was this a 2.0 or 2.4 engine?
Neither. 3.3L
@@ozzstars_cars I see now, you clearly said in the video Santa Fe, not Santa Fe Sport as I thought! haha Thanks! Trying to find a correct part number for my 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.4.
It blows for 2 hours and then it stops blowing
I think I know who she is.
that's my buddy's wife
@@ozzstars_cars😂