Wiring and modifying Peco Electrofrog turnouts for dcc
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ธ.ค. 2020
- This is my method for modifying and wiring a Peco Electrofrog turnout for use with dcc. Here I am separating the frog and adding jumper wires. I am doing this on n scale code 55 streamline Peco electrofrogs.
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You are concise, clear and precise. Love this video!
That's exactly what the new unifrog points look like now. I did this same thing to all my electrofrog points 15 years ago. The unifrog now saves me the bother. 👍
You did a great job explaining this. I’ve watched other videos about this but you explained and showed it in some detail. I now feel comfortable doing the same thing to my HO peco switches. Thanks!!!
Great work with the Dremel, I don't know if I'm just bad at using my Dremel but my results are often a fairly mangled turnout rather than a nice clean cut like that.
Thank you for putting this together...you did well so don’t put yourself down about the level of production value. What counts is the information. I too was perplexed because most resources and video naturally show HO scale turnouts for this topic and my Peco turnout looks exactly like yours. Thanks for confirming I am not losing my mind or the only one looking at a different model from what the other videos show.
thanks for the video...you have to really love N scale as the size is so much smaller than HO scale, I did the same with my Peco code 55 turnouts...found a smaller sized diameter cutting disk to use in my dremel
Great video @Schmocan Jo. Made it very clear which many are not. My points are similar to yours and I’m doing almost the same except (a) I will use isolated joiners on the outbound frog which saves cutting the track on that side. For the frog (I use tortoise also) rather than trying to bond the tracks I am dropping feeders - so 4 power feeders and a frog feeder. Great presentation so no need for your up front comments :-) keep them coming.
Thank you very much. Yes there is no need to cut the frog on the outward side if you use insulators. I may do it that way next time. Your method of more feeders world well also. I appreciate your kind words. These comments will motivate me to do more videos and set them up better
Thanks Schmo for confirming what I am doing. I'm using Code 80 at the moment for my first try at a layout but looking at a larger with code 55 eventually. I wasn't brave enough to try cutting the track with my Dremel as I'd most likely cut thorough the stock rails and have opted to go with using a jewelers saw. I managed to get quite a fine gap of less than 0.15mm (6 thou). I've shied away from cutting the heel section of the frog as the code 80 points do not look like there will be enough support for the rail.
Good wee vid. I'm basically doing the same thing with older OO Peco electrofrogs which are of similar design to your point there, I was fortunate enough to be gifted a load and got a few others cheaply on eBay saving me a small fortune rather than buying all new examples of the latest versions which tbh still need most of the same work done to them they just have the cuts already done but you still need to solder everything up. I'm just using insulated fishplates off the frog V though as that small distance won't make much odds.
Hello from the U.K. I have n gauge Peco Code 55 points and I need to modify them for DCC. However I watched another tutorial video that said you don’t need to cut the rails on n gauge points? Just wondered what the logic would be behind that as I think if I didn’t cut the rails I would still get potential bridging by large loco wheels which I have suffered with insulfrog points causing shorts since switching to DCC. Thanks!
Not into H-O but info is interesting just the same
Good vid and explanation, Jo. Here's my question: I've got Peco code 83 HO turnouts and my track is laid and ready. But I get a short when applying power to the layout with my MRC Advance Prodigy2 and NOTHING is on the tracks. Cleaned and inspected. So I found out that these Electrofrog turnouts have a built in short and need to modified as you did.
I will NOT be adding switch machines to the turnouts, only will use manual when switching.
Here's the thing: my tracks are glued down and I don't want to tear out the turnouts (I know, I should have tested first.). A guy on the MRR forum said all I need are insulated rail joiners. So, it looks like I can leave the turnouts in place and cut gaps on the point rails which is what it looked like you did? The Wiki DCC site mentions to fill in the gaps with epoxy or styrene to be sure no current is going through. As I'm not powering the turnouts it looks like that's all I need. I hope.
I run digital What then ?
If you run dc then you do not need to do anything. Although this can help with the short trains. If you run dcc then isolating the frog is required
As far as I'm aware the same modifications work in the same way regardless of whether you're running DC or DCC, this is purely about the frog and better conductivity across the whole point rather than whether it's analogue or digital.