Rebuilt plenty of motors, but transmissions always offered a challenge so i never messed with them. Thanks for the series. I might just try one sometime. You have added a lot of knowledge to my base.
thanks a lot for posting this, i was scared to death to tear apart my hydrostatic to make a locker for my off-road tractor. but now i see all i have to do is take off the side cover, weld the spiders up, and throw it back together. thanks.
"When the pupil is ready, the master appears." About to strip down the hydro tranny for my mower, and I feel infinitely more confident about it after watching your series. Thanks very much for sharing your time and expertise Moe, much appreciated.
This is a brilliant video series, I am so grateful for the your time and effort, and your skills and experience. BIG thanks. now I am so much better informed about these type of transmissions. if I ever need one built I feel like calling you!!! Big Thanks again, from me, and on behalf over everyone you watched them and never said thx cos they should have.
Excellent work. I have overhauled a boatload of auto transmissions as a dealer tech. Had to laugh, your work bench looks like mine. Thanks for posting this.
I rebuilt the G-52 5 speed in my '86 Toyota 4X4 truck. Talk about oil. For about 4 days I looked like I was swimming in the stuff. I always wondered how a hydrostatic worked. I understand a lot more now. Great videos.
Over a year ago I told you that my transaxle was frozen even though the interior was pristine. There were no broken parts. You asked me to tell you what was broken if I ever figured it out. Well, the transaxle people told me that the aluminum bearing surfaces where the pumps spin get microscopic slivers that burr. These tiny burrs prevent the pumps from spinning, thus locking the axle, even when the release is pulled. They told me to get a 2000 grit metal sand paper and polish those surfaces. I was incredulous, but did it. It worked. I was shocked that tiny little aluminum slivers could completely stop those pumps from rotating. Unfortunately, the mower sat for so long that many other parts froze. But it's almost rebuilt. Thanks for your great videos. Now Im going to go watch you build a glass pack muffler.
Hydro-Gear. But I expect this will solve a slew of sudden lock ups. I was surprised to discover how hard the pump cylinders were. Mine uses the same size cylinder for both the pump and the driver. But the driver is buried and extremely difficult to reinstall. I tried a number of methods. Once I forced it a bit too much and discovered that one piston was cockeyed in the cylinder. I honed off the burred edge a bit and neither the piston nor the cylinder were out of spec. I suspect that the cylinders are so hard, that just a sliver of anything could stop them from rotating. There are a lot of folks around me that have these big zero turn mowers and one, or both lock up simultaneously. They will not even free roll. The bad part is, one has to tear the entire axle down to the very most inside part to accomplish this task.
This is just excellent!! I am just about to buy a garden tractor like this but wondered a lot about the hydrostatic transmission and how it worked, and what if it breaks down on me. Now I can buy it and repair it if it breaks. Thanks a lot for 4 great videos! /Kim -from the middle of Sweden.
Way excellent videos. Great job with the editing too. I would never have attempted a repair like that before but now I am fairly confident I could do it. Screw paying someone else! Thanks bro.
The blue stuff is RTV gasket maker. I am by no means an expert but I appreciate the comment. Yes, the more the transmission is in use the more the tolerances are enlarged, causing fluid to leak past internally and reduces effective power output. I would at least recommend fluid changes. You can also use thicker oils to help a worn out transmission. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Nice Job, Now I can strip and clean mine, as the forward / reverse lever is very stiff. ( from a tractor i bought that had been standing) just like to say that usually a little less joint compound is better, overdoing it can lead to internal oilways getting blocked with sealant where it comes off inside.. remember as much sealent will squidge out on the inside of the casing as does on the outside..when all is tightened down.. silicone sealent is great as its very good at filling gaps, better than a gasket when the tolerances are close. I usually wipe the sealent around the edge with my finger , removing any excess, a 1mm bead that gets squashed out is fine and wont drip off inside the casing...any more is too much... Thanks again for showing us how it works and what wears out inside..Colin
Nice work :) ...I discovered your channel a few days ago and glad I did...you're clearly a clever fella and all round nice guy too...keep up the great work mate.
Well my neighbor just told me he has a john deere, one of the hydro home depot models about 7 years old, and the hydro is done. He is going to give it to me. I guess I will look into how much the parts cost and if they are available once I get the tractor. I will keep you updated and probably have a few questions for you along the way. I will film some of it as well.
Nice video informative. When I first started watching my thoughts were man I would have to clear that work table off first lol. But you made it happen anyway. Whatever works is ok..
I've got a Craftsman that starts slipping after it gets warm. Did a search and found this series you did. Thanks for a great look into how these hydo-pump systems work. Mine is also whining (suspect cavitation) and pulls like a mule at first, but does slip going up hills after a while.
You can try putting in thicker oil like SAE 60w motor oil. It will sometimes give you a few seasons more of use. Don't use gear oil like 80-90w 85w140 etc as its viscosity is measured differently than motor oil and is actually thinner than sae 60w motor oil.
Nice Video, I actually just tore apart my ariens yt15h hydrostatic transmission, This video should help me pin piont the definite problem. What ive notice so far is the where the motor (inside the hydro) is sitting against the piece that transfers the fluid from the pump to the motor is worn out, looks like it would force out oil (not a smooth surface anymore). Another thing ive notice is that the springs from the motor are slightly more compressed than that of another hydro I have torn apart.
Thanks for posting this video. I am currently rebuilding the trans on my Kubota 1860G and it is nearly identical to the one you rebuilt. I found that just like your trans, mine needed a new motor but the pump was fine. I am replacing both since I bought them before I took the trans apart. I didn't take the right side cover off like you did and I dumped the gears on the floor when I separated the two halves of the trans. Live and learn, lol!
sixtyfiveford The tractor itself is pretty good, the trans, not so much. Do you think synthetic oil would extend the trans lifetime? I had to do this rebuild at less than 500 hours! One more question, what liquid gasket stuff did you use? Is that the blue, sensor safe stuff from Permatex?
Yeah, I just use the Permatex I had laying around. Any form a gasket will work for a hydro trans. The tractor in the video only had around 500hrs if I recall. The motors in these will run 3000hrs or more if maintained. Synthetic: There's a lot of hype here and you "may" get 10% more life. So instead of 500hrs maybe 550hrs. You would be better to use cheap conventional oil and change it on a 100-200hr schedule. Doing this would give you 1000hr life more than likely.
Excellent video series (1 - 4) ! I'm thinking of applying a drain hole in rear & pump housing on bottom. Easier draining / flushing both systems. If I can locate low point that I can J.B. build up & drill / tap & plug. Should be standard on these models !
Prob dont monitor you channel anymore but for anybody going to tear one of these apart spend the extra money and buy the seal kit . @When you put in old seals back in there is a good chance they will leak internally and you will lose hyd pressure and the trans will fail , I just check on a complete seal kit on Ebarf $65.00 and I would highly recommend replacing the filter . If there is chunks in the filter it will cut down hyd pressure for the system and the metallic will go back into the system and tear up the pumps . If you are going to tear it down do it right . Other than that great job I love it
@askthekoipondbuilder. Never changing the oil will make this happen along with constant heavy towing. The garden tractor in the video was a $3000.00 dollar heavy duty unit when new.
Great job. Made it look easy! I'm a little surprised that it would not be advisable to put in new o-rings, seals, etc. - a rebuild kit- when putting that much labor in something? Just a thought. GB
I wont usually replace a good seal unless it was leaking to begin with. I know it sounds counter intuitive but I have had amazing luck putting the few seal back together as long as I take careful care removing them. Seals and orings either leak or they dont leak so it figure if it aint broke dont fix it:-) If they do start leaking they are easy to get to without removing the transmission. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.
about 10 yrs ago, I had the car in mechanics for general maintenance, new clutch, and some checks (clutch was unknown ago, just wanted it done, no issues, no leaks no problems). The mechanic told me, best always do the rear main seal at the same time, might as well, engine it tilted, box is out, tailshaft out, exhaust off, etc, etc (90% of the work already, done), I told him what's not broken, but he insisted. 3 weeks later I have oil under the car, take it back in, and find the NEW rear-main is leaking oil. the new seal had a slight grove in it from poor manufacturing, so guess who footed the bill for the car being back in the shop for another 8 hours of work to replace the bloody seal... Generally you can tell if there is wear on a seal and it's going to fail, or going to last, if it's not broken, it doesnt need fixing...
What an interesting video - I like your systematic, calm approach to complex problems. Other multi-part video posters, please take note of the way he puts the part number of the video at the start of the title. It's so frustrating to see four or five vids entitled, 'rebuild of xyz part....' and have to keep clicking through to find the next one.
I called about a Riding Lawnmower that a Man has for-sale on CL, its an Ariens Tractor that has the Hydrostatic Transaxle,,and it is slipping when it gets hot,must be due to the Pump Rotor or Motor Rotor's bore or Bearings or both having wear and losing pressure when it gets hot due the Oil thinning and Metal expanding from heat, then it shows up from the wear , it has the Spring Loaded Ball/Bearing Pistons,so the problem is probably very similar to your problem its losing pressure due to the wear I thank you for making this Video I think you did a great job Thanks again
Awesome video! One point, When you pointed out at about 5:09, in, I believe the second video, about the spider gear, that was a planetary gear. You obviously know what you are doing though. Hope it runs great for a long time. My trans is also slipping. It is a Poulan Pro 26 hp 54" garden tractor, with only 180 hours on it! Seems a little premature failure to me. I loved your video and hope to see more from you! Thanks for the post!
Your a great help thanks for putting this on here mower shops here in Australia just want you to fit a whole new transmission for $1600 or get you to buy a new mower
Thanks for the video. I am about to tear into a cub cadet that goes forward just fine but is having trouble moving backwards. Not sure what it is but i guess i need to take it apart and look.
It seems like it's always the pumps losing the tolerances in those hydro-trans.I try to steer people away from those tractors if they are using it for ground engagement or anything other than mowing grass.Thanks for another great vid.
I just found and subbed to your channel,and see the rust removal preview on what looks like a '65 F series.Then I see a 6th gen(my favorite) F series 4x4 in front of your house and your Expy in the driveway.Do I detect a pattern here?
Yep, lots of Fords around here. 59 F100, 65 F100, 66 F100, 78 F150 4x4 and the Expy. Reluctantly sold my Full size 78 Bronco a few years ago due to lack of time to use.
Thanks!! I'll have to drain some and look at it. Mine doesn't like hills once it's warmed up. Rolling the dice on an oil change. Even though it's supposed to be a sealed unit.
54coupekid Yeah, they claim they're all sealed and lifetime lubricated. Put some thicker oil in it and it will seal and work. You can enter the model number online and find out what they put in there from the factory.
Nice job! Where did you figure out what the specs should be for the tolerance on the pump pistons? How many hydro transmissions have you repaired, and is it usually the same problem?
Specs are impossible to find on most of these. The manufacturer makes these to be not serviceable and to be thrown away. They offer no support. Generally the hydraulic pump is the #1 cause of no/slow movement, jerking or slipping going up hills.If the pump is worn you will be able to feel the slop in the pistons. It is an easy enough fix but some pumps are obsolete or they want $300-400 just for the part. I got lucky and parts for this one were under $100.
I really enjoy your videos. Very informative, no fluf. Straight forward to the point information. Keep them coming. If somebody had to pay for a service like that what would what would be a rough estimate?
***** It would be very hard to find any shop that would do this. Most would tell you to buy a new machine. The second option, is they would want to just replace the transmission for $800-1200.
Fantastic videos. Liked how you kept rolling through the times when you were figuring out how to replace the motor; good to know that even the experts have to take some extra time to figure it out. What was the blue stuff that you placed on the casing edge? When you mentioned the increase in power after the overhaul, is it because of fluid lost due to the motor casing out of tolerance? I have a '92 Deere and wonder at what point is it worth cracking open the trans to replace these.
@askthekoipondbuilder. Nope. The d170 does not have a heavy duty trans. Your comment is 6 years old but now you can find many horror stories of the d 170 hydro trans failing early. I made the mistake of buying a d 170 on sale last year and its showing signs of giving up at only 40 hours running time. It cant pull an aerator for more than 15 mins before coming to a stop . My 14 hp mtd was better. So to counter the D170 reputation Home depot has rebadged it as the D165 . Same junk. To get a John deer with a heavy duty trans you need to go to a 300 series and it will cost you around 4000 $ more
Just had the hydrostatic transmission go out on my 2002 Murray and this really helped me realize the scope of the job. Looks like this unit is a Tecumseh but no numbers that I could find. Jacks Small engines has this transaxle unavailable. Any suggestions where I can find the parts? Thanks again.
hey man done a great job made it look real easy. i have 2 mtd riding mowers that the trans had froze up on them both do you know where i could download a diagram for them both . thanks man and happy new year !!!!
I know I'm late to the party here, good video, thanks. After seeing you use a big tube of gasket material, how do you keep the remainer fresh? I loose the balance of any tube once it's opened.
The large calk gun size tubes hold off drying better than the tiny tooth paste size. The nozzle on the large one will begin to harden but can generally be squeezed out and I generally get 1+ years out of a tube once it's opened. I jamb a bolt in the opening.
I've got a Murray that's got a hydrostatic transmission. The mower simply stopped going either forwards or backwards, so I may end up doing this same thing to it if lesser methods prove inadequate.
You made that look easy. I have a question hope you can help. My trans slips in forward gear when you push the lever more than half way forward. It seems to have no real slipping reverse. Have any suggestions? Thanks.
Another question. How would you be able to determine the actual speed of a ride on tractor mower. My Husqvarna YTH 2548XP states in the User manual that forward speed is 5.8 mph and reverse is 2.1 mph. I feel that the reverse is pretty slow compared to a lesser John Deer 17.542HS I own and I would love to be able to quantify it.
I get to looking at zero turn and the workings of hydrostatic stuff just because I never have. And wouldn't ya know it, after going through a slew of crappy videos, youtube finally, the next day, recommends one from one of my favorite youtubers... btw, if nothing else, you certainly have improved on your production skills there. Not that this was bad or anything. Just less professional than your vids over the past 2 or 3 years...
When I started watching this series I was thinking that you would never be able to put it back together again. What a great job. I wouldn't be brave enough to take that thing apart. What kind of oil did you use to fill it with when you were finished?
Rebuilt plenty of motors, but transmissions always offered a challenge so i never messed with them. Thanks for the series. I might just try one sometime. You have added a lot of knowledge to my base.
thanks a lot for posting this, i was scared to death to tear apart my hydrostatic to make a locker for my off-road tractor. but now i see all i have to do is take off the side cover, weld the spiders up, and throw it back together. thanks.
"When the pupil is ready, the master appears."
About to strip down the hydro tranny for my mower, and I feel infinitely more confident about it after watching your series. Thanks very much for sharing your time and expertise Moe, much appreciated.
Thanks for watching.
This is a brilliant video series, I am so grateful for the your time and effort, and your skills and experience. BIG thanks. now I am so much better informed about these type of transmissions. if I ever need one built I feel like calling you!!! Big Thanks again, from me, and on behalf over everyone you watched them and never said thx cos they should have.
Excellent work. I have overhauled a boatload of auto transmissions as a dealer tech. Had to laugh, your work bench looks like mine. Thanks for posting this.
I guess I have too many projects and not enough space.
I rebuilt the G-52 5 speed in my '86 Toyota 4X4 truck. Talk about oil. For about 4 days I looked like I was swimming in the stuff.
I always wondered how a hydrostatic worked. I understand a lot more now. Great videos.
Thanks for watching.
Over a year ago I told you that my transaxle was frozen even though the interior was pristine. There were no broken parts. You asked me to tell you what was broken if I ever figured it out. Well, the transaxle people told me that the aluminum bearing surfaces where the pumps spin get microscopic slivers that burr. These tiny burrs prevent the pumps from spinning, thus locking the axle, even when the release is pulled. They told me to get a 2000 grit metal sand paper and polish those surfaces. I was incredulous, but did it. It worked. I was shocked that tiny little aluminum slivers could completely stop those pumps from rotating. Unfortunately, the mower sat for so long that many other parts froze. But it's almost rebuilt. Thanks for your great videos. Now Im going to go watch you build a glass pack muffler.
I recall. Good info! What brand of transaxle was it?
Hydro-Gear. But I expect this will solve a slew of sudden lock ups. I was surprised to discover how hard the pump cylinders were. Mine uses the same size cylinder for both the pump and the driver. But the driver is buried and extremely difficult to reinstall. I tried a number of methods. Once I forced it a bit too much and discovered that one piston was cockeyed in the cylinder. I honed off the burred edge a bit and neither the piston nor the cylinder were out of spec. I suspect that the cylinders are so hard, that just a sliver of anything could stop them from rotating. There are a lot of folks around me that have these big zero turn mowers and one, or both lock up simultaneously. They will not even free roll. The bad part is, one has to tear the entire axle down to the very most inside part to accomplish this task.
This is just excellent!!
I am just about to buy a garden tractor like this but wondered a lot about the hydrostatic transmission and how it worked, and what if it breaks down on me. Now I can buy it and repair it if it breaks. Thanks a lot for 4 great videos! /Kim -from the middle of Sweden.
That was good. I have a dead Vickers from a Homelite T-12 I may pull apart. After watching you I think I can do it!
Way excellent videos. Great job with the editing too. I would never have attempted a repair like that before but now I am fairly confident I could do it. Screw paying someone else! Thanks bro.
Thank you very much for taking the time to produce this video. Very informative and very helpful.
DoingItCheap Thanks. I'm glad it was helpful.
Never seen anybody measure the pistons and bores. Good bit of information knowing what s new one measures for clearance when checking a used one.
Very professional and excellent presentation, you obviously know what you're doing and you do it very well.
Great job Sir!
Brian Radcliffe Thank You for the compliment and for watching.
You did a excellent job on explaining how it all goes together. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
this was about as nice of a repair job video I've ever seen. very precise in every step taken. thanks a lot now the funs about to start for me.
Thanks. Good luck on yours.
The blue stuff is RTV gasket maker. I am by no means an expert but I appreciate the comment. Yes, the more the transmission is in use the more the tolerances are enlarged, causing fluid to leak past internally and reduces effective power output. I would at least recommend fluid changes. You can also use thicker oils to help a worn out transmission. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Thanks a ton for watching and the compliments. It is great to meet you.
Yeah, your gear drive will go forever. I'm glad you enjoyed the series. -Moe
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Nice Job, Now I can strip and clean mine, as the forward / reverse lever is very stiff. ( from a tractor i bought that had been standing) just like to say that usually a little less joint compound is better, overdoing it can lead to internal oilways getting blocked with sealant where it comes off inside.. remember as much sealent will squidge out on the inside of the casing as does on the outside..when all is tightened down.. silicone sealent is great as its very good at filling gaps, better than a gasket when the tolerances are close. I usually wipe the sealent around the edge with my finger , removing any excess, a 1mm bead that gets squashed out is fine and wont drip off inside the casing...any more is too much...
Thanks again for showing us how it works and what wears out inside..Colin
Nice work :) ...I discovered your channel a few days ago and glad I did...you're clearly a clever fella and all round nice guy too...keep up the great work mate.
chr11sf Thanks Mate. I'm glad you found some enjoyable videos. -Moe
Well my neighbor just told me he has a john deere, one of the hydro home depot models about 7 years old, and the hydro is done. He is going to give it to me. I guess I will look into how much the parts cost and if they are available once I get the tractor. I will keep you updated and probably have a few questions for you along the way. I will film some of it as well.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Glad they helped. I hope you got your issue resolved.
Nice video informative. When I first started watching my thoughts were man I would have to clear that work table off first lol. But you made it happen anyway. Whatever works is ok..
I've got a Craftsman that starts slipping after it gets warm. Did a search and found this series you did. Thanks for a great look into how these hydo-pump systems work. Mine is also whining (suspect cavitation) and pulls like a mule at first, but does slip going up hills after a while.
You can try putting in thicker oil like SAE 60w motor oil. It will sometimes give you a few seasons more of use. Don't use gear oil like 80-90w 85w140 etc as its viscosity is measured differently than motor oil and is actually thinner than sae 60w motor oil.
Thanks. Will give it a go. Interesting.
Thanks for watching.
Nice Video, I actually just tore apart my ariens yt15h hydrostatic transmission, This video should help me pin piont the definite problem. What ive notice so far is the where the motor (inside the hydro) is sitting against the piece that transfers the fluid from the pump to the motor is worn out, looks like it would force out oil (not a smooth surface anymore). Another thing ive notice is that the springs from the motor are slightly more compressed than that of another hydro I have torn apart.
Great video series!!! All four videos were very enjoyable and informative. Glad it’s all is back like new again. Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching. -Moe
Thanks for posting this video. I am currently rebuilding the trans on my Kubota 1860G and it is nearly identical to the one you rebuilt. I found that just like your trans, mine needed a new motor but the pump was fine. I am replacing both since I bought them before I took the trans apart. I didn't take the right side cover off like you did and I dumped the gears on the floor when I separated the two halves of the trans. Live and learn, lol!
kufman01 Those Kubota's are good machines. Gotta love the parts that seam to explode into a million pieces when you take them apart.
sixtyfiveford The tractor itself is pretty good, the trans, not so much. Do you think synthetic oil would extend the trans lifetime? I had to do this rebuild at less than 500 hours!
One more question, what liquid gasket stuff did you use? Is that the blue, sensor safe stuff from Permatex?
Yeah, I just use the Permatex I had laying around. Any form a gasket will work for a hydro trans. The tractor in the video only had around 500hrs if I recall. The motors in these will run 3000hrs or more if maintained.
Synthetic: There's a lot of hype here and you "may" get 10% more life. So instead of 500hrs maybe 550hrs. You would be better to use cheap conventional oil and change it on a 100-200hr schedule. Doing this would give you 1000hr life more than likely.
Excellent video series (1 - 4) ! I'm thinking of applying a drain hole in rear & pump housing on bottom. Easier draining / flushing both systems. If I can locate low point that I can J.B. build up & drill / tap & plug. Should be standard on these models !
Prob dont monitor you channel anymore but for anybody going to tear one of these apart spend the extra money and buy the seal kit . @When you put in old seals back in there is a good chance they will leak internally and you will lose hyd pressure and the trans will fail , I just check on a complete seal kit on Ebarf $65.00 and I would highly recommend replacing the filter . If there is chunks in the filter it will cut down hyd pressure for the system and the metallic will go back into the system and tear up the pumps . If you are going to tear it down do it right . Other than that great job I love it
Thanks and thanks. If you need help let know or just let me know how it goes. -Moe.
I hope you do. Thanks for watching.
@askthekoipondbuilder. Never changing the oil will make this happen along with constant heavy towing. The garden tractor in the video was a $3000.00 dollar heavy duty unit when new.
great vid!!!!! thank you for filming the rebuild i always wondered what was going on ,on the inside of a hydro
Great job. Made it look easy! I'm a little surprised that it would not be advisable to put in new o-rings, seals, etc. - a rebuild kit- when putting that much labor in something? Just a thought. GB
Great video very professional you look like a good wrench
I wont usually replace a good seal unless it was leaking to begin with. I know it sounds counter intuitive but I have had amazing luck putting the few seal back together as long as I take careful care removing them. Seals and orings either leak or they dont leak so it figure if it aint broke dont fix it:-) If they do start leaking they are easy to get to without removing the transmission. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.
about 10 yrs ago, I had the car in mechanics for general maintenance, new clutch, and some checks (clutch was unknown ago, just wanted it done, no issues, no leaks no problems).
The mechanic told me, best always do the rear main seal at the same time, might as well, engine it tilted, box is out, tailshaft out, exhaust off, etc, etc (90% of the work already, done), I told him what's not broken, but he insisted.
3 weeks later I have oil under the car, take it back in, and find the NEW rear-main is leaking oil.
the new seal had a slight grove in it from poor manufacturing, so guess who footed the bill for the car being back in the shop for another 8 hours of work to replace the bloody seal...
Generally you can tell if there is wear on a seal and it's going to fail, or going to last, if it's not broken, it doesnt need fixing...
Yes. Some also have a plug as well.
Thanks... Glad you enjoyed them.
What an interesting video - I like your systematic, calm approach to complex problems. Other multi-part video posters, please take note of the way he puts the part number of the video at the start of the title. It's so frustrating to see four or five vids entitled, 'rebuild of xyz part....' and have to keep clicking through to find the next one.
I called about a Riding Lawnmower that a Man has for-sale on CL, its an Ariens Tractor that has the Hydrostatic Transaxle,,and it is slipping when it gets hot,must be due to the Pump Rotor or Motor Rotor's bore or Bearings or both having wear and losing pressure when it gets hot due the Oil thinning and Metal expanding from heat, then it shows up from the wear , it has the Spring Loaded Ball/Bearing Pistons,so the problem is probably very similar to your problem its losing pressure due to the wear I thank you for making this Video I think you did a great job Thanks again
Yep, the hydraulic motor is more than likely worn. Before you buy it find out how much the pump and motor is to determine a repair cost.
I think you can, it's just a matter of parts availability. Let me know how it goes.
Great series of videos! Just watched them all and you did a very good job. Thanks keep up the good work.
Thank You very much.
Awesome video! One point, When you pointed out at about 5:09, in, I believe the second video, about the spider gear, that was a planetary gear. You obviously know what you are doing though. Hope it runs great for a long time. My trans is also slipping. It is a Poulan Pro 26 hp 54" garden tractor, with only 180 hours on it! Seems a little premature failure to me. I loved your video and hope to see more from you! Thanks for the post!
Your a great help thanks for putting this on here mower shops here in Australia just want you to fit a whole new transmission for $1600 or get you to buy a new mower
Hopefully the video helps. Yeah, here in the States shops want to do the same thing.
I just usually google the trans number and find a parts breakdown. Thanks for watching a Happy New Year to you as well.
Thanks for subscribing and taking the time to watch.
Yes.
Thanks for the video. I am about to tear into a cub cadet that goes forward just fine but is having trouble moving backwards. Not sure what it is but i guess i need to take it apart and look.
Excellent set of videos. Thanks.
Thanks. I hope it was helpful.
Wow only 7 and the hydro is out. Yeah it will interesting to see how much parts are.
Thanks
Very nice video series, my good man! Cheers!
Thanks.
Sounds like your deep into it. The springs sound like they could be worn. Let me know how you make out.
Great series. Very good job.
Thanks.. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
ty for posting, was a great series
It seems like it's always the pumps losing the tolerances in those hydro-trans.I try to steer people away from those tractors if they are using it for ground engagement or anything other than mowing grass.Thanks for another great vid.
+Mr Frog They're nice to drive but have a horrible lifespan.
Yes sir! How do i find vids about your '65 Ford?
That's a great question. You would think I would have videos on it... But I don't. Go figure.
I just found and subbed to your channel,and see the rust removal preview on what looks like a '65 F series.Then I see a 6th gen(my favorite) F series 4x4 in front of your house and your Expy in the driveway.Do I detect a pattern here?
Yep, lots of Fords around here. 59 F100, 65 F100, 66 F100, 78 F150 4x4 and the Expy. Reluctantly sold my Full size 78 Bronco a few years ago due to lack of time to use.
Thanks!! I'll have to drain some and look at it. Mine doesn't like hills once it's warmed up. Rolling the dice on an oil change. Even though it's supposed to be a sealed unit.
54coupekid Yeah, they claim they're all sealed and lifetime lubricated. Put some thicker oil in it and it will seal and work. You can enter the model number online and find out what they put in there from the factory.
The first thing I would look at is the external adjustable linkage. Make sure it is moving properly to shift into reverse.
Nice job! Where did you figure out what the specs should be for the tolerance on the pump pistons? How many hydro transmissions have you repaired, and is it usually the same problem?
Different ones use different fluid. This particular one uses 20w 50 engine oil
Good tutorial those are pretty simple inside.
Eric Corse Thanks. Yeah, it can be intimidating but can easily broken down into several key parts.
@drspooks79 Thanks for watching.
Great video series!
thank u for ur video.i learn something about hydrostatic transmission
Thanks.. I'm glad you watched them.
Now that's a useful bit of info! Great job!
Thanks. Glad you like it.
I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish? Are you trying to push it?
Specs are impossible to find on most of these. The manufacturer makes these to be not serviceable and to be thrown away. They offer no support. Generally the hydraulic pump is the #1 cause of no/slow movement, jerking or slipping going up hills.If the pump is worn you will be able to feel the slop in the pistons. It is an easy enough fix but some pumps are obsolete or they want $300-400 just for the part. I got lucky and parts for this one were under $100.
very well explained and well shot! thanks
Thanks...
The hose on the top of the transaxle is this also a filler hose
THIS IS REALLY INTERESTING , THANKS FOR POSTING !
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Sounds like you know what your doing.
Really nice job! Very helpful.
Michael Waller Thanks, I'm glad it helped.
Great series!!!!
What brand and model # is your transmission?
I really enjoy your videos. Very informative, no fluf. Straight forward to the point information. Keep them coming. If somebody had to pay for a service like that what would what would be a rough estimate?
***** It would be very hard to find any shop that would do this. Most would tell you to buy a new machine. The second option, is they would want to just replace the transmission for $800-1200.
Great job you are a good mechanic. But clean your work bench up, That would drive me to drinkin. Again great video and good skills.
Walleye Willy Thanks. When you go non stop working on items, there's no time to clean.
Fantastic videos. Liked how you kept rolling through the times when you were figuring out how to replace the motor; good to know that even the experts have to take some extra time to figure it out. What was the blue stuff that you placed on the casing edge? When you mentioned the increase in power after the overhaul, is it because of fluid lost due to the motor casing out of tolerance? I have a '92 Deere and wonder at what point is it worth cracking open the trans to replace these.
Thanks man..
For some of us, $3,000.+ is alot to spend for a 4 to 8 yr seasonal piece of equipment.
whare did you look that they wanted to sell you the whole transmission? im looking for one used or new
How does this happen? Does this happen to a expensive john deere d 170 like I have I think it has a heavy duty transmission.
@askthekoipondbuilder. Nope. The d170 does not have a heavy duty trans. Your comment is 6 years old but now you can find many horror stories of the d 170 hydro trans failing early.
I made the mistake of buying a d 170 on sale last year and its showing signs of giving up at only 40 hours running time. It cant pull an aerator for more than 15 mins before coming to a stop .
My 14 hp mtd was better.
So to counter the D170 reputation Home depot has rebadged it as the D165 .
Same junk.
To get a John deer with a heavy duty trans you need to go to a 300 series and it will cost you around 4000 $ more
Yeah, the more you tow the faster they wear.
Good video. Just wondering why you didn’t replace the filter, O-rings and seals while you had it all apart. Cost or just can’t get the parts anymore?
excellent series thanks
Glad you enjoy it!
Just had the hydrostatic transmission go out on my 2002 Murray and this really helped me realize the scope of the job. Looks like this unit is a Tecumseh but no numbers that I could find. Jacks Small engines has this transaxle unavailable. Any suggestions where I can find the parts? Thanks again.
You need to identify the hydro unit with a model and then the main parts should be available through a Google search.
Found it! Its a Peerless 2000002A SilentTrac.
hey man done a great job made it look real easy. i have 2 mtd riding mowers that the trans had froze up on them both do you know where i could download a diagram for them both . thanks man and happy new year !!!!
I know I'm late to the party here, good video, thanks. After seeing you use a big tube of gasket material, how do you keep the remainer fresh? I loose the balance of any tube once it's opened.
The large calk gun size tubes hold off drying better than the tiny tooth paste size. The nozzle on the large one will begin to harden but can generally be squeezed out and I generally get 1+ years out of a tube once it's opened. I jamb a bolt in the opening.
Awesome video, as usual Thanks
Thanks.
Nice job and thanks.
I've got a Murray that's got a hydrostatic transmission. The mower simply stopped going either forwards or backwards, so I may end up doing this same thing to it if lesser methods prove inadequate.
You made that look easy. I have a question hope you can help. My trans slips in forward gear when you push the lever more than half way forward. It seems to have no real slipping reverse. Have any suggestions? Thanks.
+Mark Jones Sounds like your trans is worn just like in the video. It will either be you pump block or motor block.
Ok thanks.
Another question. How would you be able to determine the actual speed of a ride on tractor mower.
My Husqvarna YTH 2548XP states in the User manual that forward speed is 5.8 mph and reverse is 2.1 mph.
I feel that the reverse is pretty slow compared to a lesser John Deer 17.542HS I own and I would love to be able to quantify it.
Whenever I test speed on something like this I use phone GPS speed apps.
@@sixtyfiveford Ah ! very clever. Thank you Sir.
what weight oil did you put back in it ??? lol never mind thanks
I get to looking at zero turn and the workings of hydrostatic stuff just because I never have. And wouldn't ya know it, after going through a slew of crappy videos, youtube finally, the next day, recommends one from one of my favorite youtubers... btw, if nothing else, you certainly have improved on your production skills there. Not that this was bad or anything. Just less professional than your vids over the past 2 or 3 years...
Thanks.
When I started watching this series I was thinking that you would never be able to put it back together again. What a great job. I wouldn't be brave enough to take that thing apart. What kind of oil did you use to fill it with when you were finished?
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! awesome videos !