Introduced in 2010 the testo 550 is still a great product. It smoothed the transition from the analog to the digital world of manifolds. I'm proud to have been part of the project back then.
After a little thought...I suppose you'd need to open up the valves to get the pressure readings for low and high. Charge would come through the refrigerant line opening and would only need to be opened once you began the actual charging step. Can anyone confirm this?
@@mercurynfoThe hoses are cracked open from instrument before you connect to compressor to loose any pressure in lines or open knobs, but pressure still needs somewhere to release . As far as getting a reading , close knobs and as soon as hoses are connected to unit, pressures are indicated.
I have a few comments followed by questions: If you're short of refrigerant was this due to a leak- If yes did you repair leak? If 410A leaks it fractionates therefore you don't know what part of the chemical composition left- Putting in more refrigerant makes no sense. You need to remove entire charge and then weigh in the new charge. I'm also aware this is setup for demonstration purposes and not reflective of real life scenario. You’re charging liquid refrigerant into the suction line which has been done many times before. I find newbies open the suction valve way too much to speed things up. Charging liquid may damage the compressor due to liquid slugging. You should be going through a restrictor which will change the liquid to a vapour state and not harm the compressor. Not sure if you have a restrictor? Subcooling - I find 10F to be the minimum required and I shoot for 15-20F depending on the system. Superheat is a tricky deal since some compressor manufacturers want a different number than 8-12 degrees going into the compressor. Personally I would check the following while charging: Superheat, sub cool, delta T (return-supply air) and compressor amperage. If you have a TXV then check subcooling ... How many batteries does this electronic manifold require? This may have re-charging capabilities which is time consuming. Does this manifold have altitude compensation adjustments? Maybe I'm just an old dinosaur! What are the reasons to move from a compound gauge to an electronic manifold? I appreciate the post and look forward to all comments. One other is this a school or testing lab because your T- Stat are located too close to condensers and your condensers appear to be indoors. If they are inside you won't get the ideal temperatures.
It doesn't "fractionate" to that much of a microbe to reclaim then recharge. Unless you charge an insane amount of money for service then you just lost money doing that job
The beginning of the Charging method you said 134 PSI suction side it was running at 126 on the suction side? With 43° saturation temperature when you were finished charging at the suction side was 118 psi 40° saturation how was it under charged???
Great video. Considering digital gauges are not capable of giving you the target SH and SC, i don't see how they help that much compared to analogs. The digitals "do the math for you" people say, the only math they do is a simple subtraction. Finding the target Superheat is where the real math is. With my old yellow jackets and a clamp thermo. i determine current SH/SC in a matter of seconds. Either way, you've gotta get your WB temp inside and with a little more math you can determine what the SH should be.
I am doubting this system is low. A low system should also have a classical low sub-cooling, but this one has a high sub-cooling. This is indicative of a restriction backing up the refrigerant into the condenser increasing the condensing pressure to 363 and 109F on a measly 75 degree day... that thing is working MUCH too hard to condense refrigerant... or the condenser coil is badly plugged... Anyway, a restriction would also yield lower suction pressures, resulting in lower saturation temperatures as well as warmer suction line... higher super-heat. He probably has the wrong metering device in it, lol.
Can you cover the case where there is a TXV valve instead? I tried contacting manufacturer (Mr. Cool) and they say I have to pull all the refrigerant out and weigh it. Seems ridiculous to me. They won't provide me a target subcool range.
For some reason when I connect testo 550 high pressure to high pressure low pressure to low pressure connector with all valves open before I turn guages on just like it's on instructions, I turn on all indoor & outdoor Mitsubishi units my Testo 550 shows me same pressure on low size and high side((( Pls help
قبل 23 ساعة Thanks a lot for your job. I have a small question. When i need to charge the ac car from cylinder. Do i need to keep cylinder in neutral potion or return down. The feron does inter the ac system as gas or as liquid. Best regards
Something definitely not right with the discharge pressure. When you added freon the suction pressure dropped to 117psig before you stated it should be at 134 psif. What gives??
Is the center chamber on the testo 550 a metering device that’s vaporizing the liquid? I always use a gas vaporizer attachment on my analog gauges just curious if I still need that on this manifold or is it already vaporizing with this setup
I watched your video very nice, but I have 2 questions. 1- why did the psi drop after adding refrigerant? 2- why did the sub cooling drop after adding refrigerant? Isn't it supposed to do the opposite?
Your suction pressure dropped while your head pressure rises. This is because it's a fixed orfice and only allows for so much refrigerant to go through. Try seeing some more basic refrigeration videos and you'll see what I'm talking about. It's confusing at times because if you overcharge it will do something similar as well. Or they both rise. Been doing this for several years and I always have to review the basics when I haven't played with the refrigerant for a while.
it had a fixed orifice, so he used the designated superheat to accurately charge the unit . if it had a txv instead , what would he have done differently to accurately charge the unit?
Do not buy fieldpiece. Seriously. Do the research. The Testos are so much better. I have the 557 and love them. I researched for months before choosing my 557. For the love of God do not buy the SMANS. My buddy has them. We have compared and Testos are better.
Justin Mikola I have the Testo 557, but actually wanted Sman 4, It tells you the target superheat. No, so around about 9 or 10 or whatever, you know because it give you what your superheat should be. We live and regret!
This was a fixed-orifice metering device (not a TXV which would be charged by sub-cooling), so this unit is charged based on Super Heat. Adding refrigerant decreases the super-heat and increases the sub-cooling. He determined his target super-heat by looking at the chart he showed you... To do this he took an indoor-web-bulb of air entering the indoor "evaporator" coil. Basically a cotton covering over a thermometer dipped in water with air flowing over it is the wet-bulb temperature. This web bulb temperature was presumably 58 F, and he took an outdoor dry-bulb of air entering the condenser unit (from the sides not the top)... This was 75F. Using the chart, he determined the target or "desired" super-heat was 9 F. That said, his operating or "actual" super-heat was too high at 16F, so he added a little bit of refrigerant and let the unit run for a while and stabilize. To do this with an analog gauge, you would get a pressure reading such as 127 PSI and using a pressure-temperature chart looking look up that pressure for R-410A would be around 44 F saturated temperature... That is the temperature the refrigerant boils at and is actually boiling at within the evaporator coil. The Testo has this PT chart built in. On an analog gauge, you would just read the pink Saturated Temperature Ring and where the needle crosses is the saturated temperature. Anyway, the actual temperature of the suction (bigger line, low-side) would be warmer than that. For example in this video the suction line is about 60 F... the difference between these is 16 degrees of super-heat. That is to say the evaporator coil boiled off ALL the refrigerant then picked up a bit more heat before returning to the compressor. You MUST have some super-heat or else you will be trying to compress liquid refrigerant which will ruin a compressor. If you have too much super-heat, the compressor can overheat. When he adds refrigerant, the low and high side pressures will go up... as such the saturated temperature should go up. If the line temp stayed the same, the super-heat would decrease because it is the difference. That said in reality the suction line gets colder, too... so both of these are moving targets. Ironically, when a system is low on refrigerant, the pressures are low. The saturation temperature of the evaporator coil (indoor coil) gets too low (below freezing) and in high-humidity locations freezes up with water plugging up. that is to say the coil is actually colder when the unit has less refrigerant within it. That said if it gets too low not only does it freeze up, but the coil is not properly filled for thermal heat transfer either. The high-side pressure of 362 PSI shown corresponds to the refrigerant condensing at a saturated temperature of 79 F shown. That is to say by compressing the refrigerant as it enters the condenser coil it gets HOTTER than the outside air (remember air temp is 75 F)... then that giant fan blows air over it rejecting heat out the top of the condenser.. At any rate the refrigerant becomes a high-pressure liquid as it exits the condensing coil and gets delivered to the air handler in that smaller liquid (high-pressure) line. Sub-Cooling is then the number of degrees below the saturation temperature it is cooled. If the saturation temp is 109F (boiling point) as shown when compressed to 363 PSI but the outdoor temperature is 75 F it is pretty easy for the condenser to blow out very hot air! His line temperature is shown at around 79 F. That is to say there is around 30 F of subcooling. That is that the refrigerant was cooled 30 F below its boiling point. We use this to ensure we are delivering a solid column of liquid refrigerant to the metering device of the air-handler directly before the evaporator coil. Once it hits the metering device (a restriction) there is a sudden pressure drop and temperature drop where the refrigerant becomes a low-pressure liquid and pretty quickly flashes to vapor... The blower motor blows room temperature air that is undesirably too warm over this cold coil where it picks up heat warming the refrigerant... It just keeps circulating and blowing air. To me that Sub-Colling number is a bit high, but irrelevant for charging this type of system, but it probably indicates there is a problem. Usually machines that are low on refrigerant have abnormally low SubCooling numbers, too. This one likely has a restriction somewhere causing the refrigerant to back-up... causing high-side pressures too be too high, and the low-side to bee too low. The machine seems to be working too hard to condense refrigerant (at 363 PSI and 109 F on a measly 75 degree day). My system, a cheap Goodman on a 75 degree day will condense at maybe 320 PSI (probably 300 PSI if I ever get around to cleaning the condenser coil). At any rate normal SubCool values I see are around 10 very rarely over 15. He might have a plugged receiver/drier or perhaps the wrong sized metering device (too small a hole in the piston). This is why you Want to print the technical notes for your system and for various environmental conditions ensure you are within range.
Why are you adding liquid refrigerant to the suction line? That's supposed to be done when when you iopen up the system to atmospheric pressure and pulled a vacuum under 500 microns, that when charge a system with liquid. Liquid to the suction line is bad for the compressor..
As long as it's added slowly your not going to mess it up. Better yet you can add a flash adapter to your hose so it flashes the liquid into a gas and you'll never slug a compressor
All my test tools are digital except for my guages. That is the one tool left that I am just not sold on. They are too expensive and I just don't see it being necessary. Not to mention you can't rebuild and repair them the way you can rebuild analog guages.
@@cplg2111usmc I just can't get on board with digital guages when the regular guages have worked fine for me for decades. Maybe if they lowered the price I could be swayed.
Jahmal R. Standley Sman 4 has a target superheat button. I've gotten stuck with Testo 557 as far as I can tell the don't give you a target superheat. I'm angry as all he.., stuck with something I'm not pleased with!
clay125 Testo's don't give you your target superheat. Manufacturer's spec. have a design tem. condition. Telling you what the superheat is, is nothing, it should tell you your target superheat. Where you are and where it should be.
You didn't ADD you removed freon... look at the pressures when he starts and when he is done "adding" ... lol it was 126psi low side and then 117psi after you "added" lol Plus the noise it made when you " added freon" was wrong.
I cringe every time I go through the comment section on a video like this. Every body has a different way they would have gotten the job done and the guy doing the video is always wrong. Lol being an hvac tech isn’t as important of a job as you think it is. Get over yourself. It’s a fucking demonstration
Introduced in 2010 the testo 550 is still a great product. It smoothed the transition from the analog to the digital world of manifolds. I'm proud to have been part of the project back then.
As a brand new tech into the Hvac/R trade i just got this ones and i love them...
im in the market for new sets of digital gauges ,. any recommendations? thanks!!!
Is it safe to use a Quick Charge Adapter on the Testo 550 low side when charging a unit with R410A
When you first set up the Testo 550, why do you ensure both valves are open? I thought you open them only when you need to add charge.
After a little thought...I suppose you'd need to open up the valves to get the pressure readings for low and high. Charge would come through the refrigerant line opening and would only need to be opened once you began the actual charging step. Can anyone confirm this?
@@mercurynfoThe hoses are cracked open from instrument before you connect to compressor to loose any pressure in lines or open knobs, but pressure still needs somewhere to release . As far as getting a reading , close knobs and as soon as hoses are connected to unit, pressures are indicated.
My brand new testo 557 shows delta toh instead of super heat !
Please help
Loving your videos on point will also like to see more on how wiring is done on these systems.
I have a few comments followed by questions:
If you're short of refrigerant was this due to a leak- If yes did you repair leak? If 410A leaks it fractionates therefore you don't know what part of the chemical composition left- Putting in more refrigerant makes no sense. You need to remove entire charge and then weigh in the new charge. I'm also aware this is setup for demonstration purposes and not reflective of real life scenario.
You’re charging liquid refrigerant into the suction line which has been done many times before. I find newbies open the suction valve way too much to speed things up. Charging liquid may damage the compressor due to liquid slugging. You should be going through a restrictor which will change the liquid to a vapour state and not harm the compressor. Not sure if you have a restrictor? Subcooling - I find 10F to be the minimum required and I shoot for 15-20F depending on the system. Superheat is a tricky deal since some compressor manufacturers want a different number than 8-12 degrees going into the compressor.
Personally I would check the following while charging: Superheat, sub cool, delta T (return-supply air) and compressor amperage. If you have a TXV then check subcooling ... How many batteries does this electronic manifold require? This may have re-charging capabilities which is time consuming. Does this manifold have altitude compensation adjustments? Maybe I'm just an old dinosaur! What are the reasons to move from a compound gauge to an electronic manifold? I appreciate the post and look forward to all comments. One other is this a school or testing lab because your T- Stat are located too close to condensers and your condensers appear to be indoors. If they are inside you won't get the ideal temperatures.
TCB EPFAN the video shows user interface of the manifold. Its up to you to determine everything else. lol. You dont sleep at night do you?
It doesn't "fractionate" to that much of a microbe to reclaim then recharge. Unless you charge an insane amount of money for service then you just lost money doing that job
I have one of these but the pressures jump all over the place all the time no matter what system I'm on.. I can't keep using these things.
Can you do 1 for r22 and 1 for vacuum.. please
The video was great the only thing I would add to your video is to confirm that the Fixed orifice is correct , if not your super heat will be off
The beginning of the Charging method you said 134 PSI suction side it was running at 126 on the suction side? With 43° saturation temperature when you were finished charging at the suction side was 118 psi 40° saturation how was it under charged???
Yeah, this video confused me because of this as well...
Great video.
Considering digital gauges are not capable of giving you the target SH and SC, i don't see how they help that much compared to analogs.
The digitals "do the math for you" people say, the only math they do is a simple subtraction. Finding the target Superheat is where the real math is.
With my old yellow jackets and a clamp thermo. i determine current SH/SC in a matter of seconds.
Either way, you've gotta get your WB temp inside and with a little more math you can determine what the SH should be.
target Sub Cooling on condenser for TXV
No target super heat? Can I put the wet bulb on the gauge?? Or I use the chart??
Testo says to “close the manifold valves” and loosen hoses, you say to open valves to zero out.
Mack wouldnt that be a problem opening both lines at the same time?I was confused when he said that
@@doublewide420 this is before connecting to unit, you must loosen hoses on gauge to loose pressure
How did the suction pressure go down from 124 to 117 PSIG after adding refrigerant?
Cliff Lind
I am doubting this system is low. A low system should also have a classical low sub-cooling, but this one has a high sub-cooling. This is indicative of a restriction backing up the refrigerant into the condenser increasing the condensing pressure to 363 and 109F on a measly 75 degree day... that thing is working MUCH too hard to condense refrigerant... or the condenser coil is badly plugged... Anyway, a restriction would also yield lower suction pressures, resulting in lower saturation temperatures as well as warmer suction line... higher super-heat.
He probably has the wrong metering device in it, lol.
Was wondering the same thing.
Law of physics
because the Compressor can not discharge high pressure anymore. Therefore, lower suction pressure.
Can you cover the case where there is a TXV valve instead? I tried contacting manufacturer (Mr. Cool) and they say I have to pull all the refrigerant out and weigh it. Seems ridiculous to me. They won't provide me a target subcool range.
Txv general rule is 10° if not stated
What part # is the ball valves on the end of the hoses?
For some reason when I connect testo 550 high pressure to high pressure low pressure to low pressure connector with all valves open before I turn guages on just like it's on instructions, I turn on all indoor & outdoor Mitsubishi units my Testo 550 shows me same pressure on low size and high side((( Pls help
قبل 23 ساعة
Thanks a lot for your job. I have a small question. When i need to charge the ac car from cylinder. Do i need to keep cylinder in neutral potion or return down. The feron does inter the ac system as gas or as liquid. Best regards
Something definitely not right with the discharge pressure. When you added freon the suction pressure dropped to 117psig before you stated it should be at 134 psif. What gives??
I'm here wondering the same! 🤔
This cat is full of 💩 😂
Awesome Video, very clear and I learned alot
Is the center chamber on the testo 550 a metering device that’s vaporizing the liquid? I always use a gas vaporizer attachment on my analog gauges just curious if I still need that on this manifold or is it already vaporizing with this setup
You would still need it
Where can I get the hoses shown?
I watched your video very nice, but I have 2 questions.
1- why did the psi drop after adding refrigerant?
2- why did the sub cooling drop after adding refrigerant?
Isn't it supposed to do the opposite?
That's exactly WTF I was wondering too, makes absolutely no sense to me I would've thought it was overcharged to begin with lol
Your suction pressure dropped while your head pressure rises. This is because it's a fixed orfice and only allows for so much refrigerant to go through.
Try seeing some more basic refrigeration videos and you'll see what I'm talking about. It's confusing at times because if you overcharge it will do something similar as well. Or they both rise. Been doing this for several years and I always have to review the basics when I haven't played with the refrigerant for a while.
Just to ask, how much Testo 550 in dollar..please me reply..
The superheat was good enough 10.3F. But subcooling was too high 27F. There must be something wrong in the high side, don't you think???
I like them both, would like to see a wireless feature like the sman4 ... were all using standard analog... its a toss up between the 2 for me...
it can be connected by bluetooth to android
If you have to zero gauges an you use the manifold for pumping down to below 500 microns. Do you zero before you vacum pump
Gauges will not measure that low, I think only 50. Need another instrument,
Doesn't the Testo Manuel state to make sure the knobs are closed? And he states make sure the knobs are open.
close knobs before attaching to unit
Lo puedes hacer en español porque no hay nadie que lo explique como tu con ese testo 550
Good Vid. thanks for making it.
Where can i buy it in the united states ?
how can i have one on testo 550
it had a fixed orifice, so he used the designated superheat to accurately charge the unit . if it had a txv instead , what would he have done differently to accurately charge the unit?
Tighe Philbin subcooling
j'ai acheté la 570, c'est un excellent outil...
How much testo prise
30* of subcooling? Looks restricted.
or over charged
Shouldn't the SuperHeat be balanced against the amount of SubCooling ?
or testo 570 hiw much the price of that one.
Looks nice but I'm still thinking about the sman4 with the sdp2 and hg3, jmo...
Do not buy fieldpiece. Seriously. Do the research. The Testos are so much better. I have the 557 and love them. I researched for months before choosing my 557. For the love of God do not buy the SMANS. My buddy has them. We have compared and Testos are better.
Justin Mikola I have the Testo 557, but actually wanted Sman 4, It tells you the target superheat. No, so around about 9 or 10 or whatever, you know because it give you what your superheat should be. We live and regret!
Jerry Washington buy the iconnect for those features. :)
Thank you for trying to explain it in a very nice way
#TTES
You said "the refrigerant is a little low". What tells you that, please...?
This was a fixed-orifice metering device (not a TXV which would be charged by sub-cooling), so this unit is charged based on Super Heat. Adding refrigerant decreases the super-heat and increases the sub-cooling. He determined his target super-heat by looking at the chart he showed you... To do this he took an indoor-web-bulb of air entering the indoor "evaporator" coil. Basically a cotton covering over a thermometer dipped in water with air flowing over it is the wet-bulb temperature. This web bulb temperature was presumably 58 F, and he took an outdoor dry-bulb of air entering the condenser unit (from the sides not the top)... This was 75F. Using the chart, he determined the target or "desired" super-heat was 9 F. That said, his operating or "actual" super-heat was too high at 16F, so he added a little bit of refrigerant and let the unit run for a while and stabilize.
To do this with an analog gauge, you would get a pressure reading such as 127 PSI and using a pressure-temperature chart looking look up that pressure for R-410A would be around 44 F saturated temperature... That is the temperature the refrigerant boils at and is actually boiling at within the evaporator coil. The Testo has this PT chart built in. On an analog gauge, you would just read the pink Saturated Temperature Ring and where the needle crosses is the saturated temperature. Anyway, the actual temperature of the suction (bigger line, low-side) would be warmer than that. For example in this video the suction line is about 60 F... the difference between these is 16 degrees of super-heat. That is to say the evaporator coil boiled off ALL the refrigerant then picked up a bit more heat before returning to the compressor. You MUST have some super-heat or else you will be trying to compress liquid refrigerant which will ruin a compressor. If you have too much super-heat, the compressor can overheat.
When he adds refrigerant, the low and high side pressures will go up... as such the saturated temperature should go up. If the line temp stayed the same, the super-heat would decrease because it is the difference. That said in reality the suction line gets colder, too... so both of these are moving targets.
Ironically, when a system is low on refrigerant, the pressures are low. The saturation temperature of the evaporator coil (indoor coil) gets too low (below freezing) and in high-humidity locations freezes up with water plugging up. that is to say the coil is actually colder when the unit has less refrigerant within it. That said if it gets too low not only does it freeze up, but the coil is not properly filled for thermal heat transfer either. The high-side pressure of 362 PSI shown corresponds to the refrigerant condensing at a saturated temperature of 79 F shown. That is to say by compressing the refrigerant as it enters the condenser coil it gets HOTTER than the outside air (remember air temp is 75 F)... then that giant fan blows air over it rejecting heat out the top of the condenser.. At any rate the refrigerant becomes a high-pressure liquid as it exits the condensing coil and gets delivered to the air handler in that smaller liquid (high-pressure) line. Sub-Cooling is then the number of degrees below the saturation temperature it is cooled. If the saturation temp is 109F (boiling point) as shown when compressed to 363 PSI but the outdoor temperature is 75 F it is pretty easy for the condenser to blow out very hot air! His line temperature is shown at around 79 F. That is to say there is around 30 F of subcooling. That is that the refrigerant was cooled 30 F below its boiling point. We use this to ensure we are delivering a solid column of liquid refrigerant to the metering device of the air-handler directly before the evaporator coil. Once it hits the metering device (a restriction) there is a sudden pressure drop and temperature drop where the refrigerant becomes a low-pressure liquid and pretty quickly flashes to vapor... The blower motor blows room temperature air that is undesirably too warm over this cold coil where it picks up heat warming the refrigerant...
It just keeps circulating and blowing air. To me that Sub-Colling number is a bit high, but irrelevant for charging this type of system, but it probably indicates there is a problem. Usually machines that are low on refrigerant have abnormally low SubCooling numbers, too. This one likely has a restriction somewhere causing the refrigerant to back-up... causing high-side pressures too be too high, and the low-side to bee too low. The machine seems to be working too hard to condense refrigerant (at 363 PSI and 109 F on a measly 75 degree day). My system, a cheap Goodman on a 75 degree day will condense at maybe 320 PSI (probably 300 PSI if I ever get around to cleaning the condenser coil). At any rate normal SubCool values I see are around 10 very rarely over 15. He might have a plugged receiver/drier or perhaps the wrong sized metering device (too small a hole in the piston). This is why you Want to print the technical notes for your system and for various environmental conditions ensure you are within range.
+NETWizzJbirk
Great comment. Read/studied every sentence.
@@hg2. Ditto on that. I reread Netbizzjbirks comments several times. He should be teaching if he is not already.
it does give you SH SC,
Why are you adding liquid refrigerant to the suction line?
That's supposed to be done when when you iopen up the system to atmospheric pressure and pulled a vacuum under 500 microns, that when charge a system with liquid.
Liquid to the suction line is bad for the compressor..
As long as it's added slowly your not going to mess it up. Better yet you can add a flash adapter to your hose so it flashes the liquid into a gas and you'll never slug a compressor
I don't understand why open the valves
To release any refrigerant trapped in the gauge manifold or hoses... then to zero the readout
All my test tools are digital except for my guages. That is the one tool left that I am just not sold on. They are too expensive and I just don't see it being necessary. Not to mention you can't rebuild and repair them the way you can rebuild analog guages.
You can only rebuild the valves. The rest has to get sent in
@@cplg2111usmc I just can't get on board with digital guages when the regular guages have worked fine for me for decades. Maybe if they lowered the price I could be swayed.
I'm new in industry. How did you know how much you weighed in? I know you said you were about 9 ounces short. Is that just experience. No scale:)
Jahmal R. Standley from what he did, he guessed. I was wondering the same thing. you can guess and see what the systems goes to within 10 mins.
True
Hey! He ain't pay for the 410 anyway:))) only the company cares...lol
Jahmal R. Standley Sman 4 has a target superheat button. I've gotten stuck with Testo 557 as far as I can tell the don't give you a target superheat. I'm angry as all he.., stuck with something I'm not pleased with!
Jerry Washington man.don't get lazy...LOL.get you a fieldpiece srh3.nice tool. Iove my testos!
some body help me
Is that the HVACRAT!? Where you been? Apparently with Test! Good move!
You started @126psi and ended @117psi and you said @the start the system is low on gas...like wtf?
U shouldn't add liquid to the suction line, u should add vapor not liquid.
You have to charge r410 in liquid form
@@soloryderrr nope, not in the suction line( cold vapor) , youll over heat the pump
Oh? So how do you do it then? Add to the high side? Lol
www.hunker.com/12001960/how-to-add-r-410-refrigerant
@@soloryderrr you need to learn more and harder. So you understand how this system works.
Dont make sense to me, high pres. 362psi. Add 8 oz. And the high pres. goes down to 347psi. with a fixed orifice. I'm flabbergasted!
Compressor system has more refrigerant - it does not have much power to compress to high pressure.
I plan on the 557's when I buy my 410 gauges...
clay125 Testo's don't give you your target superheat. Manufacturer's spec. have a design tem. condition. Telling you what the superheat is, is nothing, it should tell you your target superheat. Where you are and where it should be.
How's it going to give you target superheat when its different for every unit and situation....
You didn't ADD you removed freon... look at the pressures when he starts and when he is done "adding" ... lol it was 126psi low side and then 117psi after you "added" lol Plus the noise it made when you " added freon" was wrong.
You didn't get it up to 130 psi like you said it should be
It was close enough
Sir iam hvac technician. Iam indian. So can help for usa visa.for work hvac
I cringe every time I go through the comment section on a video like this. Every body has a different way they would have gotten the job done and the guy doing the video is always wrong. Lol being an hvac tech isn’t as important of a job as you think it is. Get over yourself. It’s a fucking demonstration
Sold
This video is off testo
10mins
In spanish please
I like them both, would like to see a wireless feature like the sman4 ... were all using standard analog... its a toss up between the 2 for me...
Just to ask, how much Testo 550 in dollar..please send me reply..
It's about 350 to 375
Where can i buy it in the united states ?