Hand Planing Wood - Flat, Smooth, and Polished (2020)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this Hand Planing Wood video Rob teaches you how to properly plane the face of a board with your hand plane. He goes over setting up the board, body mechanics, planing technique, blade control, and preventing plane tracks.
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In the past six months I have watched A LOT of youtube about hand planes, and I think this is the first time I've ever seen one that actually explained not just how buy *why* every step is taken when planing a board flat and smooth, and the relationship between the method and the result. Thank you so much!
When I watch other videos, they make it look so fast and easy. Then when I do it, never fast. Your video is excellent as it shows the reality of it takes time to do it right. Very reassuring. Also, I learned you start with a technique but you are constantly adjusting to what the wood is telling you. Great teaching and advice. Thanks
Thanks for your feedback, glad to help!
Sharp tools make quick work
I want to update my last comment by saying this is probably the best video I have ever seen on flattening and smoothing a board. Rob goes into the depth and takes the time to ensure that whoever watches this knows what he is doing and why. No other TH-cam presenter comes even close to this.
I could never be disciplined enough to stop and pull out the shavings after each stroke! My plane is lucky if I even bother to stop when there's a chunk stuck in the blade..
I was always tought by a master carpenter , that if you plane the surface to the piont that it's polished... its then becomes difficult to apply any sort of finish.? ie .. stains or varnishes.? Any thoughts on this?
Im someone who prefers to learn by doing, and I wanted to give a huge thank you for these videos. Many of these basic skills can be quite intimidating. Ive had projects that i was nervous to finish at a certain point out of fear of ruining the whole thing. Your videos and expert guidance have helped me tremendously, and im glad to be a part of the age where we can share this knowledge freely with others. Id never be able to afford actual classes, so thanks for helping me in my journey!
I know this is at least a year old or late comment, but how much thickness of the plank did you lose to planing?
Do you have any video’s on flattening bench tops
I took your advice, Rob, and recently bought a 5 1/2. Wow. So glad. The weight and length make planing a joy now. Accuracy has improved dramatically, too.
Share that, someone you know could benefit.
Cool to watch, but I'll stick with my jointer, planer and sander and be done in 5 min. We still don't know if the faces are parallel.
Absolutely amazing, this was a 30 minutes educational video… how long would it take you working un interrupted?
Great info and video. Always watching from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. Thank you for all you do. Cheers
These are excellent tutorials Rob, I'm getting a lot from them , thank you :)
all that planing went from 3/4 board to 1/2" board...lol
Amazing video, and can't wait for the next one on winding sticks! I've been working on my hand plane technique after watching some of your previous videos and it's really helped improve my results.
If you have any tips: I have been struggling with getting the outer side of my board flat. I've been trying to use the skew technique you mentioned at 14:19 but have had a hard time with the outer edge because the majority of the plane is off the board and I think that's been causing me to lose full contact with the board. I've tried various things like flipping the board in the vice (a bit annoying but it works), or changing the skew to be in the other direction (really awkward). I've been planing relatively wide boards so it's even harder to get my hands all the way to the outside. I noticed that you reduce the skew when you get to the outside edge and are almost parallel: is that the technique you would suggest?
You are doing all the right things. My recommendation is either to reverse the skew which can be awkward or just reduce the skew angle. If you reduce the angle ( like I do) just make sure you put a lot of pressure on you hand hold the knob to keep the plan flat and registered on the face.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks, that's super helpful! I'll try this out.
In
I went through this last night and it seemed to take forever and reduced the thickness of the board more than I wanted or needed. I have another board to do but watched this first. Hopefully, I will do better. Thanks for the very informative post.
I'm exhausted just watching! Great vid thanks.
your videos are amazing. thank you so much. i am basically a novice woodworker. my question is. if you start out with a 3/4 board. after all the planing it is probably only 5/8 or 11 /16 so if i am using boards for a project how to i make them all the same thickness thanks
I'm a total newbie to woodworking and I am trying to make sense of the whole process. To me it appears, at times, he is going against the grain. If you want to true up the face first then surely you must plane against the grain at times yes? Or am I thinking about this wrong?
Now I understand why there is so much focus on having a perfectly flat workbench. It is used to gauge just how perfectly flat boards are when planing. It is not all about having a flat surface for assembly.
Rob, I have never used a plane and I would like to start. I am concerned how much it would take physically to do it. It sure looks like hard work. I will be 70 soon and am not sure I could do it successfully. Your thoughts please. Thank you Rob.
Sir, i am 50, started recently and find it therapeutic. I have tried many and may i suggest you give a try to a no 4 (smaller and lighter, therefore easier on upper body) or better still try the old wooden planes, they glide on wood ( no wood to metal resistance- although a bit fussy at times) and are lot easier to use. If you want please look up paul sellers who has excellent videos on planing as well. I hope you enjoy it as much as i do, all the best and kind regards from pakistan.
If your project needs 3/4 inch parts, what rough thickness do you start with before thickness planing and then hand planing? Thanks,
Would borrowing an idea form the router guys make un-winding and flattening easier? The plane is stiff enough and long enough to bridge across the board maybe. If tapered shims were used for stabilization and leveling of a pair of clamped fences. would a "plane sled" work?
Problem is, you spend half an hour getting a little tiny board like this dead flat with a $200 hand plane, but the SECOND the weather changes it warps and twists again. Its an exercise in futility.
29:35] "You only wipe one way." You only wipe the wrong way once.
Great tutorial. Finishing a great dinning table in Holm Oak at the moment. Hand planing not really an option, irrespective of throat width. Would you sand or scrape??
glass panel,damp the board, lay it on the glass, the moisture will be visible where its touching and dry where its not. frosted glass will give a more pronounced effect.
This chap is brilliant both in his skills and the clarity of presentation. Thank you Rob for what you are doing and the way you are helping so many. Woodwork has kept we sane during this virus lock down.
Good video. While it is important to have this skill. Using a jointer and planer would be quicker and easier.
Did you act in a movie when you were small you like like the kid in sharkboy and lava girl that like bullying Max. Im just asking lol
The video links you mention in this video are missing. I'm guessing youtube changed something in the year since it was posted?
Great vid Rob. I remember you doing one similar to this topic some time back which was also good. But this is fantastic. Slowing down a little and taking time to explain some of the details to us less experienced gives me the "ahaa" moment I was looking for. Thanks
Glad it clicked. Now go plane some wood!
Hello, I have the following question: I just can’t get a flat surface lengthwise, there always is a bump and the stat and end of the board are thinner. I do pay attention to the pressure when starting and ending t7he stroke but always end up with the bump. Sometime the plane only catches at the beginning and at the end of the stroke, even when I already have a bump, leaving an even bigger one. What can be the reason? This lets me currently think it is just not reasonable to try to dimension a board by hand, but when I see this video it seems to be possible to get a fly surface. Please help! thank you
I recently discovered the hand plane way. My Kana leaves me a beautiful finish. Great video turn everyone onto hand planes...brings you "closer" to the wood anyway
Dont you just love the sound and feel of planing?
Last time I was this early, sandpaper hasn't been invented yet
Lets see that was how long ago??????
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I believe sandpaper was invented in 13th century China
I need this 14" planner with 6 extra blades how can I purchase
Question: when does the wood finally stops twisting?
The thing I always have to remind myself is that a low spot requires everything else be lowered to match it, while a high spot needs to be reduced to match the surrounding levels.
I also have to discipline myself to slack off at the end of the stroke to avoid introducing a taper. This is a matter of practice and attentiveness as I work through the process.
Very well said, good tips for all to use.
I had a 400 dollar budget for hand planes. I bought the WR Low-Angle Block w adjustable throat and the No. 6.
I already had a vintage Fulton No. 4, and a Fulton waffle handle combination plane. These will just have to do for a while yet.
I couldn't get a LN or Veritas in an acceptable time frame. I'll use the router to flatten anything way out of shape.
If you are doing a combination planer - plane work (and you have a jointer), my question is if you want to end up with (say) 1/2" thickness, how close to that do you go with the planer but leave room to plane off the board to be smooth. 0.510? 0.530? What?
False, there is always a need for sandpaper. Small parts, angles, around dowels, and the list goes on and on. Refinishing. Unless your entire existence revolves around long flat boards you will always need sandpaper.
Of course! The statement on the thumbnail, along with the picture of planning a board face is meant to imply that you do not need sandpaper to flatten and smooth a board face, instead you can use a plane.
it depends on sharp tools ,time and skill ,sandpaper isn't a necessity. There is always a way to finish without sandpaper if you desire
Personally, I plane sidewards, across the grain, until the board is grossly flat. Depends on the wood, I guess. Most hardwoods, going sideways will give much faster material removal (can extend the blade out farther without jamming/chatter) with less effort and less chance to tear out the surface of the wood if the grain isn't all the same direction. You get lines, but no bad tearout. Of course you have to avoid blowing out the back edge, but if the edge/s are high, you can plane them from edge-in, so no tearout. When grossly flat, then I change directions to go with the grain, and also readjust the plane. And the lines disappear with 2-3 passes, maybe?
I'm sure the wood moved, here, making the job way bigger than first anticipated. As he removed the hump, it released some tension, and the wood curled more. Ad infinitum. Making the wood thinner is like removing some of the laminations from a bent-lamination. That area would move, as a result. The kind of wood probably makes a difference, too. A thoroughly dry hardwood might not move so much?
If he had anticipated this much material removal, he probably would have done it a different way. Or more likely chosen a different board?
But the result? Seeing that plane all waxed up and gliding off layers of wood silk, I think the video was spot on. Wood River, eh?
Rob, it is SO nice for someone to show how it REALLY works! 3-7 strokes. Check it. 3-7 strokes. Check it. 3-7, check, 3-7 check. I always felt like I was missing something when other videos are getting flat square parallel boards in 2 minutes. Pencil the pivot points (or lows or highs - I use squiggles for lows, lightning bolts for highs, and darker lines for magnitude). The other part you talk about is not making it worse! In the beginning, I'd take too much and then just like golf on the green, wiff the ball back and forth. I feel so validated watching you. Thanks for making it real.
The difference in appearance of sanded vs. hand planed blows my mind. I'm just starting woodworking with just hand tools, and flattening surfaces is my first concern so thank you for the information.
What kind of pine is this board?
Gotta love the way these demo's are always done with straight grained knot free timber and it's nearly always a softwood.
If only that were possible in the real world.
Before surface joiners took the brutal sweat out of dimensioning lumber surfacing and thicknessing was done by scrubbing the timber flat diagonally. Curved blades hold up longer and leave a surface with lot's of reference points for the finishing cabinet maker to work from. There really is no point in finish planing generally until the work is assembled.
Wooden soled planes, waxed, polished and subtly hollowed could be driven fast with far less friction than metal plane's.
The wax rubs off metal plane within a minute or two and it won't be long, trust me on this, before you get blistered hand's using one.
Thanks for all your tutorials, Rob.
Your Videos are very interesting. Being a Spanish speaker I use the google translator, but this is not very good, so it is difficult for me to understand your excellent instructions. It would be interesting if you could subtitle your videos in Spanish to understand better. Thank you very much friend..
This may be a dumb question but do you have to water pop wood to raise the grain when you use the handplane over sanding? Or is that eliminated because of the handplane?
eliminated, no raised grain at all.
Tus Vídeos son muy interesantes. Siendo yo hispano parlante utilizo el traductor de google, pero, este no es muy bueno, de manera que me cuesta entender tus excelentes instrucciones. Seria interesante que puedas subtitular tus vídeos en español para poder comprender mejor. Muchas Gracias amigo..
Do some finishes or stains require a rougher (less polished blade) or sanded surface to work well? Perhaps to have a uniform stain or help in avoiding blotches, especially modern finishes?
Curious if one would get equally good results planing end grain, like an end grain cutting board. Or is it better to just stick with sanding that kinda thing?
After using several hand planes. I finish off , with the L/V scraper plane on very hard woods e.g. ebony, rosewood, locust, white oak etc
The instructions Rob uses are the best. I have been wood working since a kid in my grandfathers shop. I am blessed with a well equipped shop and the one thing i have been reenforced with Rob is tool sharpness . When I watched his top wood selections I guessed pine as his favorite because it is mine. I do work with cherry and walnut a lot.
Thanks Rob, nice way to end the day. Greatly Appreciate the tutorials ! On the job wearing the tee shirt every day, aching for someone to ask about it so far no bites but I’m sure someone will ask sooner or later ...
Thanks for helping with PHP....keep wearing it...they will ask.
RobCosman.com will do !
The first step that you're doing, taking the high spots out. Can this also be done with winding sticks? Because My bench isn't flat enough to use as a reference face. So I thought winding sticks would work too?
since you do pull every shaving from the plane if you kept a trash can right there you wouldn't need to sweep up at the end of the day.
Where do you get your plane wax
This is one of my favorite videos you've done! Thank you!!!
Thanks Scott!
Is planning generally the first step in a project or can this be done later in the project? Say once i've glued or joined other pieces together?
Good to see someone else chasing different areas flat on a board. Pleased it's not just me that goes though this.
Very nice level of detail and thoroughness. Could you sometime comment on the rationale and particulars of the collection of plane blades you have in the tool tray on the back of your bench?
Holy shit I literally just learned a lot I always mess with twisted boards and never knew how to get that out thanks rob
Why doesn't he use two hands
Is that Jack a 5-1/2? I’m waiting until this weekend to go to WoodCraft and get my new 5-1/2! Time goes SOOO slowly when your not doing woodworking! Awesome video as always and I’m learning so much from you!
Yes 5-1/2, my favorite size plane
I see you wax....where do I find that and what is it called.
Patience, patience!
Great video Rob. Looking forward to the next one.
To the 5 numbskulls who gave this a thumb down, I would suggest you do a youtube search for "Cat Videos". They may be more to your liking.🤪
Thanks Steve. We are working on the next video now
you wanna hold this wood
I primarily use machines for dimensioning and am thinking about getting a 4 1/2 for smoothing instead of sanding. I basically like planing better than sanding. For this situation would you still recommend a 5 1/2?
Yes I think you will find the %-1/2 mush more versatile. With today's modern planes the concept of fore plane, then jack, then smoother really no longer applies. You can do the jack and smoother job all in one. Go with a 5-1/2
Great video and just in time while I'm working on the new top for my new bench. So you used the jack plane, will you still use a smoother as well after ? or some sandpaper before applying the finish?
No on the smoother. With today's modern planes and sharpening gear you can get the face dead smooth and flat with just a jack. 85% of my planing is done with just a jack. No on the sandpaper. That is the beauty of a plane it leaves the surfaced polished and beautiful. If I hit that with sandpaper I would be degrading the great surface I just put on the wood.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Got it thanks. I just got the same jack plane yesterday, it's on sale now. but still getting plane marks. I sharpened it as you showed on that last video and with the shapton 16k, but it doesn't seem to work as smoothly as yours yet.
Yan I did a little experiment the other day, you can do it yourself. Take a piece of scrap wood (I used red oak) and plane one half and sandpaper the other half. By hand both halves will feel just as smooth but the sandpapered side looks bleached and washed out, the planed side the grain POPs.
Don’t forget to feather the edges. Once your board is flat, start taking thinner and thinner shavings, feeling the surface of the wood as you go. Once you get down to those wispy shavings your tracks will disappear
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I get that sanding is not optimal when dimensioning the piece, but what about finishing? While applying most finishes aren't you supposed to sand between coats? Doesn't that ruin the "planed look?"
In a future video could you show how you plane a long piece of wood, say maybe 6 feet long? I have learned to use my legs and then extend my arms for a 3 foot piece but dealing with something big is something I have not figured out.
I will put it on the to do list. What furniture are you making that you need a 6 foot piece?
A video on how to correctly use a block plane? All possible uses? Often I happen to plane a box on the main face running into different grain directions and possible tear out... thanks!
Its in the works
Any chance of doing a video on hand planing a board with cathedrals.
Hey guys. Love the videos and have been watching a long time. Just to give some feedback, I find the new title blocks distracting and they don't add anything to the content. Perhaps others could give an opinion as well.
Thanks for the feedback. Our views and watch time have significantly increased with the new style. But we are still experimenting. Really appreciate the feedback
I’m so confused right now.
ignore me I watch all your vids
Question (hand)planing instead of sanding: On what surface will the paint stick best and why? If planing makes the wood flatter, will paint still get good adhesion? The roughness of the wood after sanding is good for paint. Some say don't sand above 220 grid because if the surface is to flat the paint won't stick to the wood. ~So this is somewhat confusing~. I will buy a plainer for sure. I won't buy the WoodRiver because where I live the delivery costs will be to high. What about the Axminster brand, any idea? (Looking at the Axminster Rider No 5 1/2 Jack Plane, €132,50 (euro))
Adrian. Why would you paint over a piece of nice wood you just planed? The whole idea is to prepare the surface to show off the wood? If by “paint” you mean finish then absolutely its no problem. I am not familiar with those planes so i looked them up. There is not enough info on their site to know if those planes are bailey or bedrock style, which is my first question. Next i would want to see the machining on them. Finally i want to know the hardness and type of metal used in the blade, which all they say is “quality”. The lack of details makes me skeptical. Sorry i cant give you an opinion. I see that they also carry Lie Nielsen planes which I highly recommend.
RobCosman.com Thanks for these fine added detailed questions and remarks. This helps me finding the right plane(s) and I understand the difference between finishing and painting. I was thinking of an outside sofa and other indoor furniture. Big difference of course. Oiling, lacquer or painting. Not sure if there is a difference between lacquer or paint from your standpoint?
You applied what you called magic wax to the soul of a hand plane. Is that wax available to purchase?
Hi Gary you can purchase that at our online store. Here is the link: robcosman.com/collections/miscellaneous/products/rob-cosmans-plane-magic-wax
Hey Rob, did you do a Shop tour video? I am fixed on that wall behind you and looking to build one myself.
Not yet. COL Lither has it on the list, but i waived it off for now as out teaching room is full of junk and we have a lot of construction going on. Once all that is fixed we will shoot the shop tour video
When you transitioned from getting the board to not rock then to making it smooth-which face were you working on?The opposite face to the "non-rocking " side or was it the same side that you started on?
The face opposite if the non-rocking side
This is such an interesting video. Thank you so much for explaining so clearly.
Thank you for your videos I watch them all the time. I am new to planing and I know the 5.5 is your fav. I will be joining 2 11" wide cherry slabs 2" thick 10 feet long. What plane would you choose for this job as my first plane to purchase? I would like it to be versatile so it can do other jobs as well and not just for this type of tough job. Would you stick with the 5.5? low angle jack? 6? Your advice is appreciated :) (I know.... I have a tough job for never using a plane before but I can do it )
To joint that long of a board its no question you should use a #7. My favorite bench plane is a 5-1/2, next is a #7. The #7 will do you well for jointing the edge of that long of a board and you can also flatten with it. Its one of the more pricey planes though. I prefer Bedrock style bevel down (Traditional) planes to bevel up planes. I find them much easier to adjust especially tiny adjustments.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Do you think I can get away with a #6? The price difference is significant. I forgot to mention that I will do an initial planing with a router sled shimmed on the bottom so it is flat.
I have two problems I can’t seem to overcome. One is my board will be thicker on one side or the other. I assume because I’m not paying attention to how much I take off. The bigger problem is the board will be thicker where I start planing and thinner where I end. In other words front to back. This happens even when I take full shavings. Any tips?
You have a common issue. Its all related to your planing technique. Without watching you plane I will bet you are taking too thick a shaving. You other issue is uneven pressure on the plane. Focus on these corrections: 1) Sharp blade, take a thinner shaving 2) when planing in general pay close attention to how you apply pressure to your plane, especially when starting, finishing, and near the edge. Keep your pressure such that the plane stays flat on the board's face and does not tip near any edge. 3) stop and check your work more often to see whats happening. 4) practice
RobCosman.com Thanks!
After reading a book on the owner of Bridge city tools . I was wondering if you’ve ever tried on of his hand planes? He focuses a lot on the chip breaker. And thinks about how a plane blade chatters. Just curious.?
No i never have. I do know he recently sold the company and production has been moved offshore. Chatter is bad. I think the # 1 chatter preventer is a thick blade. I would say next most important is the cap iron tha holds the assembly tight to the plane. I should read his book!
RobCosman.com I just did. It was very impressive. I bought Kerfmaker and the order got messed up . As a gift I was given his book upon request. The photos in the book are outstanding. The stories behind each tool was inspiring . The planes he made had me thinking of you. It’s a shame you two never met as of late any way. He has such an eye for detail and an understanding in the tools I think the plane you two would have one up with would a revolutionize the plane world. Lol he thinks why shouldn’t a plane have two functions. One is it to be used. Two why can’t it be beautiful as well. Hell iI am crying over wood rivers price I can imagine paying 4x but... I think the plane you could create would be like none other. I’m just getting starting using planes after the past 3 months.
Just curious, I love the planed look with the wood. Suppose you have a dead flat board and your finished size is 3/4inch thick. What thickness do we legitimately lose with this planning? 10 to 12thou? Or is it too small in the situation I described to even worry about? Love you instructions.
Really good question. So once you are proficient at planing, and if you are starting from a board fresh off the joiner and planer, a couple of thou, not enough to worry about. If you are starting with an S4S board that has been sitting around for a while, depending on how badly it has cupped and wrapped 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch?? If its really badly out of shape up to 1/4. Starting from rough lumber even more. This goes to good board selection in the first place. In furniture building you are typically more worried about flat and square verses every piece of lumber being exactly the same thickness
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Gotcha! Thank you sir.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Rob, I thought I once heard that when working with rough stock you should count on 35% of the material to be lost during flattening and squaring. Sounds about right for stock straight from the sawmill.
Good stuff Rob! I hated the hand plane. Then I found you and your videos. I am still a beginner with my Bailey BUT I am getting better results each project. Thanks again, and if you ever get smocks in for us polar bear sized guys, I would love to buy one.
We are in the process of getting new updated ones. COVID-19 shut down our manufacturer but they will be back up soon.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Understandable.
Thank you! Thank you! Great video. It gets to the heart of my problem. I do have a question. If you only have to get 1 plane, what would it be? I have a bevel up plane. Its LN 6 1/2 low angle. I cant seem to get a consistent shaving because each time you adjust the blade, you have to loosen the blade and adjust, test and adjust to make sure you are planing square on both size. I'm so ready to try a bevel down plane. What would you recommend? Thanks.
Now you know the primary reason i don’t like bevel up planes. Get a 5-1/2. The good news is Lie Nielsen planes hold their value really well on the secondary market. Lie Nielsen makes a great 5-1/2, as does WoodRiver,. WoodRiver is less expensive. Your choice.
I love these tutorials, these are helpful.
Since it was a oak in his yard, I suspect it is our most common oak, live oak, Quercus virginiana. Red oak is Quercus rubra and white oak is Quercus alba. So related but different.
Live oak is very hard. It was the wood that “Old Ironsides” was laminated with
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yeah. I'm not sure it was my finest purchase but my son made a beautiful tortilla press out of it and some other wood.
Useful, helpful and enjoyable. I was amused when you mentioned you had to get this finished before you ran out of wood. Now, of course, I'll have to give this a try but I'm going to start with an even smallest board.
Yes, the video show the importance of picking the best board you can from the store. I did not inspect mine good enough and it was twisted and had a hump in the middle and two low sides. Its all good as you saw the techniques to solve that. Its actually easier to practice on a thick board (I recommend near 1 inch thick) that way the board doesn't flex on you. If you get it too short its hard too. 18 Inches long is the minimum I would start with.
Thanks
Can someone comment on the video transitions ? 11:24 and whatnot
What do you mean? You want to know why we did a transition there?
Do you use card scrapers? Didn’t see any videos about it on your channel
Yes I do and yes I need to make a video on those. Thanks for reminding me I will put it one the to do list
Great lesson. Thanks. Removing that hump in the board would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, and not nearly as efficient and precise using a random orbit or belt sander.
I agree. That's were hand planes really shine
Hey Rob, i really like your humor.
I hold the high corners and rub the wood on my tablesaw. This leave burnished spots which I plane off. Doesn't take long to get it flat.
Yup that is a great technique. I teach that to students. Typically I only use it on rough sawn boards when its hard to figure out where the pivot point is. For the S4S board I used all but the last pivot point was easy to ID. I should have demonstrated it though. Were you screaming at the screen for me to burnish it?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm not about to think I know better than you. I'm doing this very thing currently. I'm preparing some poplar for a cabinet. After resawing, I need to flatten it. The table saw technique works for me. I'm not experienced enough to do it by eye yet, though I to try to predict where the high spots will be.
And once again, a thorough and detailed video. You are teaching whole generations of woodworkers not only proper techniques but how to think through the problems.
On another note, did I miss your explanation of what the fuzzy is on your apron?
Well done Rob, thank you!!
Thanks for watching. Its my duty to pass on the knowledge.
wireless mic, the rabbit tail prevents the scratchy noise if I brush the mic
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingOk. Thanks for the reply.
Fantastic demonstration Rob, thanks for posting it for us. It was almost as therapeutic listening to those shavings coming off your plane as it is when I'm doing the work.
Shhhhhhoooose
I have learned more about hand planning watching your video's than any other medium I have looked at for the use, set up, tuning and sharpening of hand planes. I was almost at the point of giving up on hand planes until I starting watching your demonstration and teaching. Now I look for every opportunity I can to use my hand planes, which are Wood River I might add, again because of you. And I can say the same about chisels. Thank you so much. One more thing, your PHP has to be ranked right up there with the best in helping our vets. I have contributed when I can and hope to do more in the future. What a fantastic program.
Thanks for support PHP. You deserve the credit for supporting us. So how is your sharpening and planing now?
It has improved 150%. I still have a way to go but I keep practicing your techniques and it gets better each time. I never thought I could make hand cut dovetails until I watched your videos and now I use dovetails as much as I can. Not anywhere near perfect but getting better all the time. Hand plane and chisel work much improved because of you and my great wife bought me your dovetail saw, which I have wanted for sometime, for
Christmas. Love that saw.