I know you're calling this a "beginner" instructional because you're just making a case, but this video is packed full of master class details. All of the little idiosyncrasies along the way make such a huge difference. The trouble is in remembering all of them when I'm in the shop and I don't have Rob reminding me over my shoulder.
Rob, you should employ more 2 1/2" screws to those stubborn sloppy corners. Framer to the rescue🤣. Thanks for all your hands on wisdom and the help your providing for veterans. Stay well. A vet in so cal
Just buy a metric tape and a metric rule and measure with these, problem solved. One metre is 1000mm which is 3 feet and 3 and ¾ inches. Now I am going to divide 1000mm by 2 to get half, and you are going to divide 3' 3,3/4" in half-Go!
Amazing...I was just thinking about needing more cases... shelving...in my workshop that I am putting together. I am a newbie and this is perfect. Thank you! Great timing!
First instructional video in the new shop and new subtitles text too. Very good vocational instructional video. Really well structured, delivered and very informative.
There is no doubt the metric system is the more straightforward when making calculations. The reality for people of our vintage, who learned metric at school, then found their place of employment was still largely imperial, is we use an amalgam of the two. I remember, as an apprentice being instructed to "bore for two metric 1/2" bolts, 1m 4 1/2" inches apart"....
It's like Rob says, the quality of the piece is the sum of the parts. A few years ago I would have thought that in order to square up the inside rabbet for the back of the case, making 50 cross grain chisel chops, a few dozen paring cuts, and then going back over the whole rabbet with a router plane to clean everything up would be too tedious and unnecessary. I might not have even bothered to sharpen my chisel first. Putting that A-tier energy into every little task makes a big difference.
Rob, you glued 2 pin boards and a tail board and then let them tack up before you glued on the last tail board. My uneducated natural instinct when trying to glue up a square case would be to glue up all 4 boards and then try to square up the case after the fact. Does your approach offer benefits or avoid pitfalls? Can you elaborate a little on this approach?
Normally I would have glued up the last Tailboard right after the two pin boards however in this case I noticed open areas that I needed to close so I had to apply the clamps which stopped the process. So had everything fit correctly I would’ve done it just the way you said however I check for square after putting together every corner otherwise the glue has a chance to set up and then you will not be able to pull it into square effectively.
Learn fractions? I did that 50 + years ago. Now my eyes get crossed trying to read fractions and whether its sixteenths, thirty seconds or sixty fourths and as my eyesight gets worse, well, you'll find out. Whereas metric is based on the rule of ten. If it's 7 tick marks over how many what's is it in Imperial as opposed to metric which tells me it's 7 mm. We learned both in 1st grade (we also learned French as Canada was 26 miles across Lake Erie.)
I have very little uses of my right arm and no uses of my right hand. Could you do a video show ing things being done with 1 hand as I am sure that some of your students have had my problem.
Great video and I enjoy all your work. Just a quick question. Why put the tails on the side pieces for this cabinet but not the little one with the drawers? Just curious
I’ve been asked to build 2 chest of drawers for somebody in new york(I’m in Wisconsin), I’m very hesitant to build these and have them shipped across the country…can I be sure the drawers will fit when they get there?
Can you be sure ? No. But you can do a lot to try and make sure they fit;1) build the drawer in the most humid time of year for where you live. 2) if using traditional building methods all you have to worry about is movement in the vertical plane. So leave a bit more gap between your drawer and opening top to bottom. 3) You could consider using a man-made material such as plywood for the drawer sides and front and band them so they look nice, the man-made material will not move.
Rob, watching for years and I’m still in awe of your attention to detail. Chiseling out the grooves for the back was therapeutic to watch! Question: would you ever insert the back (not glue) during glue up as a way to enforce squareness?
5:04 You should have 'learned' Metric?! Can you count from 1-1000? ;) Also us Imperial folk don't talk in cm 5:34 we build everything (including skyscrapers all over the planet) in mm. All good - we just add a 0 🤙 Anyway thanks Rob - great stuff and FYI i wouldn't have a clue how tall i am in mm, but i do know i'm 6'1"
This project reminded me of Woody Hyezmar's Bible somehow…, although you can currently get it at no cost, the projects are worth a good look. Maybe try go’ogling his latest.
Rob, do you pretty much always use a 1/6 for your dovetail angle? If so, how wide a panel would you suggest changing to a 1/7 or 1/8? I understand that some folks change the angle based on the hardness of the wood and/or aesthetics. Just wondering about your preference. Thanks!
WOW! That is a video meant for me! What a perfect explanation of using a chisel bevel up versus bevel down. I still consider myself a beginner, even though I've watched how to videos for at least 2 years ... especially yours, Rob. Thank you for making every woodworking task seem like it is attainable. I haven't really had too much actual success yet, but you are such an inspiration, great teacher and humanitarian, that I know one day, woodworking will all come together for me. So thank you so much for this video. Be well ...
Thanks for the nice informative video! Can you please do a extensive video similar to this on fixing dovetails and common mistakes. if you have one already please let me know.
Brilliant video as always Rob, what tight bond glue did you use and is it any benefit to use a slower setting one for this type of work? The lighting in the new shop is perfect,
Tight bond 3 is my go to glue. On this cabinet, its perfect. If this was a large case with a lot of dovetails (50+). I would consider using tight bond extended open time glue which is slower setting. Thank you for your comment
Your video and your tool display case are inspiring me to build a similar one for my own tools. As soon as I finish up my current project I'm definitely going to join your online subscription-based classes and learn how you made that thing. It's beautiful and wonderfully efficient at the same time. I want one
Hello Rob et al, Viewing this video I came up with two questions: @13:55 did I see graduations marks on the marking gauge you used? If so, what gauge is that and do you ever use those marks? Then towards the end, you check the squareness of your cabinet by comparing the diagonals, which are bang on... (I am not surprised) but you don't say what one would have to do if there were not. Sincerely, Paul from Pierrefonds (Montréal, Qc)
Love the video, very clear step-through of the process -- but I wish you editor wouldn't cut you off mid-sentence like at 31:25 or the end of the video -- it sounds like you're about to give an explanation that we want to hear! TH-cam ain't charging by the megabyte, we want to see/hear as much of the process as possible.
This is an excellent video for anyone building a box with dovetails. An excellent guide to save as a reminder. thanks for the easy to understand video Rob. 🇨🇦👍👨🦳
Hi Rob, Thank you for sharing what you know, I've applied many of your techniques in my work and they've been very helpful in getting more accurate results. I noticed you have a bunch of plane blades in the tool well on your bench, given you mainly use bevel up planes, is there any specific reason why you have all the spares? Thank you anf have a nice day!
Lots of good stuff. But if this is aimed at beginners, I would question how many of then have a table saw and dado blades. Mention of the alternative of a router table method would be of value to many.
Hi Rob! I'm not a beginner. No expert either. Somewhere in the middle. BUT...I will watch these videos all day and learn something every time.. So, when did you start using the router plane? I also love Paul Sellers channel!!! I think that's my next purchase. Keep up the great content. You are critical to spreading fine woodworking to everyone.
Hello Mr. Cosman. I am retired and now looking at a woodworking hobbie. Thank you so much for all the information and the way you present it. I do not have many tools, but I do have a router and a couple of dovetail bits. Any suggestions on how to make dovetail joints with a router. The only handsaw I have is a miter box saw and all the teeth are the same. It is very hot here in Tucson AZ now looking at 100 + degrees for awhile. Have a great day and God bless you and yours.
Thanks Rob for another excellent practical tutorial. Wondering if there's any downside impact if I glue up 4 corners at once by using parallel clamp to pull the 2 tail boards together instead of doing one corner at a time? I fear that pounding may break the outside pins and also if one of the square measure is off just by 1-2 degree then the last tail board will be difficult to go in or it may force the previous glue joint to move.
I really appreciate this video too but I think that beginners don't own a table saw to cut rabbet this way and squaring and edging is an important phase with hand tools...
There are multiple ways to cut rabbits.In this video I chose tablesaw and most beginners that I’ve encountered do have tablesaws. However if you do not have a tablesaw using a plow plane or a router or even just your chisel will do fine. So there are multiple ways to cut rabbits
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you for your answer. Cutting the rabbit it's ok but I was thinking that having a table saw for a beginner is a bit like "mettre la charrue avant les bœufs"...( putting the cart before the horse). The beginners you encountered have jointers and thicknesser to?
When you mention learning the metric system, was that intended as a joke or if you could start all over would you have went with metric instead of imperial? As a new woodworker without a ton of measuring tools, I'm still debating what to invest in.
Hi Rob, I have about 14 years experience.....do you think beginners would like to know how long they should roughly expect to spend building the carcass and the next four videos too? It may give them a little additional perspective. Great video as always!
Sure, but thats really variable depending on a lot of factors. My goal with these videos is to demo technique in a short video. Hopefully they will get inspired to take further lessons
Thanks for watching. Your suggestion is an option but i dont prefer it because the router will not cut a nice flat rabbit. Its almost impossible to clean up the rabbit left by the router once the case is assembled
@@RobCosmanWoodworking oh trust me when I say that I can't wait for the video to come out. I have watched most of your videos especially your dovetail tutorials because I want to start cutting dovetails myself. You are an excellent teacher and an amazing craftsman!
I’m super new to woodworking and I’m going to be doing allot of practice before starting whatever project I decide to do. Any suggestions on what to do first to get some practice? You sir are a woodworking wizard, you make it look so way.
sharpening and then using your plane to square edges. Flattening or planing smooth wide boards, no plane tracks. Sharpening chisels, sawing, in particular, become proficient at starting the saw exactly where you want it to start.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking fwiw, my first purchase from y’all was your sharpening system. I watched the multi-episode drawer building series last year and realized very early on that my tools needed to be much sharper than I had ever sharpened before if I was going to attain Cosman-worthy joinery. I’m not there yet, but I’m getting there, and boy howdy, are my planes and chisels ever sharp! It makes a world of difference!
I’m sharpening my chiles and I can’t seem to get a burr on my 32 degree angle. 25 is the main bevel and 28 is the second bevel and third is 32 or 34 degrees. What am I doing wrong? What is the purpose of the second bevel ?. Please let me know what I’m doing wrong.
Hi Rob, I see quite a few people dry fit their dovetails. I've noticed you never do, but have not heard you explain why. Would you please explain why you prefer not to dry fit?
The way I teach and the way I work, is that you perform each task so as to know what the outcome will be ahead of time. Also, It only fits the best on the first assembly, every assembly afterward is more loose.
Awesome video. On your block plane, did you polish the back to 16k and use the ruler trick? Curious how you prep your low-angle plane blades since there's a lot more steel there vs chisels.
Great demo, Rob~! It's amazing to see that chisel slicing thru the "miniature slices pieces of bread" so easily. Almost looks like you're cutting balsa wood. Fantastic instruction~! Thank you, sir~!
A superb demonstration detailing all the fundamental skills and techniques involved to produce a dovetailed case for a cabinet. Ingenious use of extremely sharp chisel to perfect a rebate for the back of the case - pure class and skill- shown so well with great close up camera shots. The assembly process was great to witness too accompanied by numerous useful tips to create a perfectly fitting case. Continued thanks to ALL at Cosman HQ for providing ongoing wonderful educational wood content!!!
Excellent timing Rob, i was just thinking about building some cabinets. Somewhat of a side question: what's your go-to straightedge for flattening large surfaces, like an 8ft board or dining table or similar? The longest one i have that is trustworthy at the moment is my #7 jointer, and i was wondering if i should invest in something longer and more dedicated
I don't know how I can thank you and honor the quality of the content you share. I will put love and respect for the work that comes to my hands. I think that's the only way. Muchísimas gracias.
Rob, you don't need to learn decimal you already know it! Work in millimetres and divide by 1000 when ordering lengths in metres. Divide by 10 and you have it in centimetres. If your mill/depot only work in inches, get an app on your phone for metric/imperial conversion.
Another great tutorial, Rob. I hope to have my hands in the work soon to begin practicing your techniques, as I'm getting nearer to having a functional space. Thanks so much!
One more time an amazing woodworking class video.Each detail is so very well explained and we can feel inside the shop with you.Thank you for so nice classes.
Beginner 😢..... uh. I built a 4x4x5' chicken coop.... it's ok. I have a miter saw, circular saw and compression drill, Brad nailer and orbital sander, oh oh a grinder! I think it may not need this precision or experience cause I'm a box building beginner.
This was a fantastic video, Rob! You answered a bunch of questions I’ve been pondering before attempting my first hand-tool cabinet, and I have several cabinet projects in mind for the coming year or two. I am really looking forward to the remainder of the videos on this project! Many thanks!
But the more important reason is that the router plane will make the surface of the rabbet parallel to the face of the board, shoulder plane wont do that
If you liked this video check out Cabinet Doors 101: th-cam.com/video/om50AtwPd44/w-d-xo.html
I know you're calling this a "beginner" instructional because you're just making a case, but this video is packed full of master class details. All of the little idiosyncrasies along the way make such a huge difference. The trouble is in remembering all of them when I'm in the shop and I don't have Rob reminding me over my shoulder.
Thank you for watching and the comment. I agree- go slow and practice a lot - and play the video so you hear me talking over your shoulder
That mirror like finish on the chisel is a beautiful and gentle reminder of how sharp it is. Love watching a master at work!
Thank you for including Metric,
Rob, you should employ more 2 1/2" screws to those stubborn sloppy corners. Framer to the rescue🤣. Thanks for all your hands on wisdom and the help your providing for veterans. Stay well. A vet in so cal
I always learn a lot when you post these videos. Thanks so much, Rob.
As an Aussie, I smiled at your musing over learning metric! Each system can be tricky navigating when it’s not yet second nature. 😅
Just buy a metric tape and a metric rule and measure with these, problem solved. One metre is 1000mm which is 3 feet and 3 and ¾ inches. Now I am going to divide 1000mm by 2 to get half, and you are going to divide 3' 3,3/4" in half-Go!
Amazing...I was just thinking about needing more cases... shelving...in my workshop that I am putting together. I am a newbie and this is perfect. Thank you! Great timing!
Stay tuned as we build out this case in about 5 videos
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking really looking forward to the rest of the series!
Nice reminder of basics, thanks Rob.
You bet
First instructional video in the new shop and new subtitles text too. Very good vocational instructional video. Really well structured, delivered and very informative.
Thanks. This one will be a 5 part series
There is no doubt the metric system is the more straightforward when making calculations. The reality for people of our vintage, who learned metric at school, then found their place of employment was still largely imperial, is we use an amalgam of the two. I remember, as an apprentice being instructed to "bore for two metric 1/2" bolts, 1m 4 1/2" inches apart"....
I love that - a metric 1/2 inch bolt
Nicely done, great job.
Fabulous
great instruction, thanks
Thanks for watching snd commenting
I'm currently building a dovetail bedside cabinet at college and this is the standard I aspire to be. Maybe one day.
You can do it
It's like Rob says, the quality of the piece is the sum of the parts. A few years ago I would have thought that in order to square up the inside rabbet for the back of the case, making 50 cross grain chisel chops, a few dozen paring cuts, and then going back over the whole rabbet with a router plane to clean everything up would be too tedious and unnecessary. I might not have even bothered to sharpen my chisel first. Putting that A-tier energy into every little task makes a big difference.
@@Exodus5K You're absolutely right and this is what I'm aiming for. I'll keep watching and taking the advice.
@@Exodus5K agreed... and what’s more, I truly enjoy the process of doing this with hand tools now!
I love " IT CLOSES ON A CUSHION OF AIR" I will be borrowing that phrase.
Keep watching this series and I will show you how to build that door
Rob, you glued 2 pin boards and a tail board and then let them tack up before you glued on the last tail board. My uneducated natural instinct when trying to glue up a square case would be to glue up all 4 boards and then try to square up the case after the fact. Does your approach offer benefits or avoid pitfalls? Can you elaborate a little on this approach?
Normally I would have glued up the last Tailboard right after the two pin boards however in this case I noticed open areas that I needed to close so I had to apply the clamps which stopped the process. So had everything fit correctly I would’ve done it just the way you said however I check for square after putting together every corner otherwise the glue has a chance to set up and then you will not be able to pull it into square effectively.
Learn fractions? I did that 50 + years ago. Now my eyes get crossed trying to read fractions and whether its sixteenths, thirty seconds or sixty fourths and as my eyesight gets worse, well, you'll find out. Whereas metric is based on the rule of ten. If it's 7 tick marks over how many what's is it in Imperial as opposed to metric which tells me it's 7 mm. We learned both in 1st grade (we also learned French as Canada was 26 miles across Lake Erie.)
Bonjour….I learned imperial and that what I am comfortable with. My kids are metric, why we had 10!
I have very little uses of my right arm and no uses of my right hand. Could you do a video show ing things being done with 1 hand as I am sure that some of your students have had my problem.
Great idea. Not sure what i can do but let me think what we can put together
Great video and I enjoy all your work. Just a quick question. Why put the tails on the side pieces for this cabinet but not the little one with the drawers? Just curious
Well that one does not hang. If you Look closely I glued and screwed a frame on the back of it and then attach the frame to the wall.
I figured it was a simple answer. Thanks
I’ve been asked to build 2 chest of drawers for somebody in new york(I’m in Wisconsin), I’m very hesitant to build these and have them shipped across the country…can I be sure the drawers will fit when they get there?
Can you be sure ? No. But you can do a lot to try and make sure they fit;1) build the drawer in the most humid time of year for where you live. 2) if using traditional building methods all you have to worry about is movement in the vertical plane. So leave a bit more gap between your drawer and opening top to bottom. 3) You could consider using a man-made material such as plywood for the drawer sides and front and band them so they look nice, the man-made material will not move.
I do have a question. Why do you turn the corner like that with the block plane?
done correctly, it prevents you from planing across the grain of the "other" piece.
Rob, watching for years and I’m still in awe of your attention to detail. Chiseling out the grooves for the back was therapeutic to watch! Question: would you ever insert the back (not glue) during glue up as a way to enforce squareness?
I never have
5:04 You should have 'learned' Metric?! Can you count from 1-1000? ;) Also us Imperial folk don't talk in cm 5:34 we build everything (including skyscrapers all over the planet) in mm. All good - we just add a 0 🤙 Anyway thanks Rob - great stuff and FYI i wouldn't have a clue how tall i am in mm, but i do know i'm 6'1"
This project reminded me of Woody Hyezmar's Bible somehow…, although you can currently get it at no cost, the projects are worth a good look. Maybe try go’ogling his latest.
Those cabinets may be “ shop furniture” but they’re built with lots of TLC and skill. Very inspiring.
Dude! You make me a nervous wreck cutting those thin pieces. Nice job though I am curious how many broke during filming that we never saw.
Rob, get yourself a fraction calculator app on your phone. Lots of time saved, especially when subtracting
Yeah, that gap he pointed out was horriffic. Surprised he didn't just throw the whole thing away! [Sarcasm]
Rob, do you pretty much always use a 1/6 for your dovetail angle? If so, how wide a panel would you suggest changing to a 1/7 or 1/8? I understand that some folks change the angle based on the hardness of the wood and/or aesthetics. Just wondering about your preference. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. I keep 1/6 angle for all my dovetails regardless of wood type or size of project
Great video, filming was sweet, workmanship was great and explanations were excellent.
Glad you enjoyed it! Hope you will watch all 5 videos as we build this cabinet
Hey Rob, thanks for this wonderful video👍 I've signed up on your ONLINE WORKSHOP for the real hardcore learning and I'm loving it. Thanks budd :)
Thanks for signing up. Let me know if there is a project you want me to tackle
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I will do thanks :) Learning how to make the Plywood bench at the mo and I'm loving 😉 Thanks Rob
👍
Hi Rob how would you make the shoulder cut if the shelf was much longer?
Watching this while I look at my pocket hole cabinet with a little pride and a little disgust.
I love fractions. Just saying... :)
WOW! That is a video meant for me! What a perfect explanation of using a chisel bevel up versus bevel down. I still consider myself a beginner, even though I've watched how to videos for at least 2 years ... especially yours, Rob. Thank you for making every woodworking task seem like it is attainable. I haven't really had too much actual success yet, but you are such an inspiration, great teacher and humanitarian, that I know one day, woodworking will all come together for me. So thank you so much for this video. Be well ...
thanks for watching...keep trying and make sure you watch the videos as we build this case
What are the specifications of sawcopy blade?
Thanks for this episode.
I also wanted to say that I have "store bought lumber" envy after seeing that flat, clear pine board you had.
My "store" doesn't ever have lumber that clear and flat.
@@JackMoskowitz especially not that size!!!
Guess I am just lucky....
Thanks for the nice informative video! Can you please do a extensive video similar to this on fixing dovetails and common mistakes. if you have one already please let me know.
I do have one called, “dovetails by hand - invisible gap repair”
Hello from Texas!
Howdy pard’ner
Brilliant video as always Rob, what tight bond glue did you use and is it any benefit to use a slower setting one for this type of work?
The lighting in the new shop is perfect,
Tight bond 3 is my go to glue. On this cabinet, its perfect. If this was a large case with a lot of dovetails (50+). I would consider using tight bond extended open time glue which is slower setting. Thank you for your comment
Your video and your tool display case are inspiring me to build a similar one for my own tools. As soon as I finish up my current project I'm definitely going to join your online subscription-based classes and learn how you made that thing. It's beautiful and wonderfully efficient at the same time. I want one
Great! The entire build is on the online workshop. See you there! Thanks for watching and for the comment
Hello Rob et al,
Viewing this video I came up with two questions:
@13:55 did I see graduations marks on the marking gauge you used? If so, what gauge is that and do you ever use those marks? Then towards the end, you check the squareness of your cabinet by comparing the diagonals, which are bang on... (I am not surprised) but you don't say what one would have to do if there were not.
Sincerely,
Paul
from Pierrefonds (Montréal, Qc)
Love the video, very clear step-through of the process -- but I wish you editor wouldn't cut you off mid-sentence like at 31:25 or the end of the video -- it sounds like you're about to give an explanation that we want to hear! TH-cam ain't charging by the megabyte, we want to see/hear as much of the process as possible.
This is an excellent video for anyone building a box with dovetails. An excellent guide to save as a reminder. thanks for the easy to understand video Rob. 🇨🇦👍👨🦳
Hi Rob,
Thank you for sharing what you know, I've applied many of your techniques in my work and they've been very helpful in getting more accurate results. I noticed you have a bunch of plane blades in the tool well on your bench, given you mainly use bevel up planes, is there any specific reason why you have all the spares?
Thank you anf have a nice day!
Lots of good stuff. But if this is aimed at beginners, I would question how many of then have a table saw and dado blades. Mention of the alternative of a router table method would be of value to many.
Most start off with a table saw and dado blades are a next thing to buy as an accessory.
Hi Rob! I'm not a beginner. No expert either. Somewhere in the middle. BUT...I will watch these videos all day and learn something every time.. So, when did you start using the router plane? I also love Paul Sellers channel!!! I think that's my next purchase. Keep up the great content. You are critical to spreading fine woodworking to everyone.
Great teaching video! Thanks! This one goes into the favorites file for constant referral when building cases!
Thank you! This is the first of a five video series. Hope you enjoy all 5
Hello Mr. Cosman. I am retired and now looking at a woodworking hobbie. Thank you so much for all the information and the way you present it. I do not have many tools, but I do have a router and a couple of dovetail bits. Any suggestions on how to make dovetail joints with a router. The only handsaw I have is a miter box saw and all the teeth are the same. It is very hot here in Tucson AZ now looking at 100 + degrees for awhile. Have a great day and God bless you and yours.
If this project was "keeping it simple" than I have to be WAY more careful than I have been. Nice job.
Thanks Rob for another excellent practical tutorial. Wondering if there's any downside impact if I glue up 4 corners at once by using parallel clamp to pull the 2 tail boards together instead of doing one corner at a time? I fear that pounding may break the outside pins and also if one of the square measure is off just by 1-2 degree then the last tail board will be difficult to go in or it may force the previous glue joint to move.
I really appreciate this video too but I think that beginners don't own a table saw to cut rabbet this way and squaring and edging is an important phase with hand tools...
There are multiple ways to cut rabbits.In this video I chose tablesaw and most beginners that I’ve encountered do have tablesaws. However if you do not have a tablesaw using a plow plane or a router or even just your chisel will do fine. So there are multiple ways to cut rabbits
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you for your answer. Cutting the rabbit it's ok but I was thinking that having a table saw for a beginner is a bit like "mettre la charrue avant les bœufs"...( putting the cart before the horse). The beginners you encountered have jointers and thicknesser to?
I made it with Woodglut plans!
Occasionally you see early 19th or 18th furniture where the interior of a drawer was planed. The maker shimmed the pin ends to recover a good fit.
When you mention learning the metric system, was that intended as a joke or if you could start all over would you have went with metric instead of imperial? As a new woodworker without a ton of measuring tools, I'm still debating what to invest in.
I like when you do the precise calculation
It took me long enough to learn how to do them!
Hi Rob, I have about 14 years experience.....do you think beginners would like to know how long they should roughly expect to spend building the carcass and the next four videos too? It may give them a little additional perspective. Great video as always!
Sure, but thats really variable depending on a lot of factors. My goal with these videos is to demo technique in a short video. Hopefully they will get inspired to take further lessons
There’s no learning with metric!
Can drug dogs smell nicotine?
Glad I found this video, like seeing information on carcass work and case design. Thanks for the info 😊
I used metric coz fractions drives me crazy😂...im really bad at fractions even in school.
Who needs fractions!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking You do if you're using imperial measurements!
Thanks for your teaching!! Love hearing your insights!
Thank you for watching and your comment
Would it be easier to assemble the case then cut the back rabbit on a router table?
Thanks for watching. Your suggestion is an option but i dont prefer it because the router will not cut a nice flat rabbit. Its almost impossible to clean up the rabbit left by the router once the case is assembled
How you cleaned up that rabbit on the pin board was amazing
Thank you! Really appreciate the comment!
Shouldn’t you have measured to the plug since the cabinet will be next to instead of the trim?
Thanks for watching. I plan to position the case above the plug
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ahh gotcha. I love your videos!
Using your body weight to control the cut...Genius!!!
hey yall what tool did he bust out at 28:50?
Unbelievable how sharp your chisel is. Amazing
Thank you very much! please keep watching as we build this entire cabinet
@@RobCosmanWoodworking oh trust me when I say that I can't wait for the video to come out. I have watched most of your videos especially your dovetail tutorials because I want to start cutting dovetails myself. You are an excellent teacher and an amazing craftsman!
Yeah it's next level sharp
@@andrewford80 yeah, I'm always having a hard time when chiseling with the grain. I'll try changing the bevel like Rob said
I’m super new to woodworking and I’m going to be doing allot of practice before starting whatever project I decide to do. Any suggestions on what to do first to get some practice? You sir are a woodworking wizard, you make it look so way.
sharpening and then using your plane to square edges. Flattening or planing smooth wide boards, no plane tracks. Sharpening chisels, sawing, in particular, become proficient at starting the saw exactly where you want it to start.
where can I see the rest of the video?
Ok, i just realized something. You are in Canada, correct? Why are you not using metric?😁
Yes I am in Canada, but I grew up imperial and I am not changing now
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you for your teaching!
Man, I gotta work on sharpening my chisels and planes... that wood is cutting like butter!
Sharpening is the most important skill for a hand tool woodworker
@@RobCosmanWoodworking fwiw, my first purchase from y’all was your sharpening system. I watched the multi-episode drawer building series last year and realized very early on that my tools needed to be much sharper than I had ever sharpened before if I was going to attain Cosman-worthy joinery. I’m not there yet, but I’m getting there, and boy howdy, are my planes and chisels ever sharp! It makes a world of difference!
I’m sharpening my chiles and I can’t seem to get a burr on my 32 degree angle. 25 is the main bevel and 28 is the second bevel and third is 32 or 34 degrees. What am I doing wrong?
What is the purpose of the second bevel ?.
Please let me know what I’m doing wrong.
Was that the small dovetail saw?
Hi Rob, I see quite a few people dry fit their dovetails. I've noticed you never do, but have not heard you explain why. Would you please explain why you prefer not to dry fit?
The way I teach and the way I work, is that you perform each task so as to know what the outcome will be ahead of time. Also, It only fits the best on the first assembly, every assembly afterward is more loose.
Awesome video. On your block plane, did you polish the back to 16k and use the ruler trick? Curious how you prep your low-angle plane blades since there's a lot more steel there vs chisels.
Prepared the same way as my hand plane blades, except for the feathering on the edge, I don’t do that to the block plane.
Great demo, Rob~! It's amazing to see that chisel slicing thru the "miniature slices pieces of bread" so easily. Almost looks like you're cutting balsa wood. Fantastic instruction~! Thank you, sir~!
Thanks for watching and commenting
A superb demonstration detailing all the fundamental skills and techniques involved to produce a dovetailed case for a cabinet. Ingenious use of extremely sharp chisel to perfect a rebate for the back of the case - pure class and skill- shown so well with great close up camera shots. The assembly process was great to witness too accompanied by numerous useful tips to create a perfectly fitting case. Continued thanks to ALL at Cosman HQ for providing ongoing wonderful educational wood content!!!
Thanks for watching, 4 more videos in this series
Excellent timing Rob, i was just thinking about building some cabinets. Somewhat of a side question: what's your go-to straightedge for flattening large surfaces, like an 8ft board or dining table or similar? The longest one i have that is trustworthy at the moment is my #7 jointer, and i was wondering if i should invest in something longer and more dedicated
Nope a #7 will do a fine job
Morning Rob,
While discussing your cabinetry do consider the "Golden Rectangle"?
Do you have any videos on this?
Not anymore....I just let my eye tell me whats pleasing, it generally comes very close to the golden rectangul
Amazing to see.... Great skills! Thanks
Love the mirror finish on the back of that chisel!
Flatten your chisel back to 16k
The ship lap boards look to be 1/2” thick. I suppose you milled them from 5/4 stock?
You got it
Thanks to Mr Rob Cosman from Chile. You really give us everything about any given subject. Kudos for you and your team.
Thanks for watching
I don't know how I can thank you and honor the quality of the content you share. I will put love and respect for the work that comes to my hands. I think that's the only way. Muchísimas gracias.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Exactly what I needed to watch right now.
Great stuff Rob. I would love to see a video on how you make a shooting board for cutting miters for boxes if you get around to it
Its already on the to do list
Its on the list to do already
Rob, you don't need to learn decimal you already know it! Work in millimetres and divide by 1000 when ordering lengths in metres. Divide by 10 and you have it in centimetres. If your mill/depot only work in inches, get an app on your phone for metric/imperial conversion.
Nope i am not switching, staying with imperial
Another great tutorial, Rob. I hope to have my hands in the work soon to begin practicing your techniques, as I'm getting nearer to having a functional space. Thanks so much!
You need to make some shavings!
I was hoping you would show how you how you mounted the ship lap to the back so it could move. Great video.
that is the topic of one of the four related videos.
One more time an amazing woodworking class video.Each detail is so very well explained and we can feel inside the shop with you.Thank you for so nice classes.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Hey Rob, what type of plane where you using to make the rabbets on the back of that box?
A Lie-Nielsen Large Router Plane with an added wood base.
Beginner 😢..... uh. I built a 4x4x5' chicken coop.... it's ok. I have a miter saw, circular saw and compression drill, Brad nailer and orbital sander, oh oh a grinder! I think it may not need this precision or experience cause I'm a box building beginner.
This was a fantastic video, Rob! You answered a bunch of questions I’ve been pondering before attempting my first hand-tool cabinet, and I have several cabinet projects in mind for the coming year or two. I am really looking forward to the remainder of the videos on this project! Many thanks!
Great. This will be a 5 part seties
rob, do you have a video that shows how you would apply the cosman dovetail method to proud dovetails?
Not yet but thats on our video to do list
Instead of the router plane, would a stepped rabbet plane work better for the rabbets?
That would work too. Not sure I would say ‘better’
Why would you use a router plane? You use it in these situations a lot. Isn't a shoulder plane easier?
I just realized the end of the rabbit would stop you. Dumb me.
But the more important reason is that the router plane will make the surface of the rabbet parallel to the face of the board, shoulder plane wont do that
Wow, you're good!! I thought those outside pins were toast. Loved the video.
Thanks for watching and commenting. The only toast here is ones with maple butter on them!!!
What do you mean when you say holding gains with the clamp?
Sometimes when you tap a joint together it bounces back. The clamp offers enough resistance to prevent that. Tap it tight and it stays put!