Good video, Ashley. I have a few extra suggestions: 1.. First check parking brake is set plus P (auto) or 1st gear (manual). 2.. Check car handbook for exact position of jacking point rather than just looking for what you think is the correct spot. If you pick the wrong spot you could injure yourself and damage your car. 3.. I wouldn't use my foot to help locate the wheel on the studs. If the jack fails you're in trouble. 4.. If your car has a spare wheel check the tyre pressure occasionally. Over time it can lose pressure. 5.. Using a long bar and as much force as you can could overtighten the nuts and damage alloy wheels. Long bar is handy to loosen the nuts, but the wheel brace supplied with the car is sufficient to tighten them. 6.. Carry a flat piece of wood (e.g. a chopping board) to place under the jack in case you're stopped on soft ground. 7.. Drive for a while (half an hour?) then stop and re-check tightness of nuts.
Certainly agree with the foot, I wouldn't either for the reason you state. Nor should you EVER put any part of your body under the car, when it's on a jack. I had the same design of jack fail on me (stripped thread), luckily only had jacked the car halfway. Gave me a scare!
Definitely agree with Point 3. You could trap your foot under the wheel, and if this happens in the middle of nowhere and you're on your own, you're in big trouble.
nastyevilninja everyone else seems to have managed with all of these things in the past... Can you imagine having a weekly lesson in school where you learn how to fix car parts or something? It wouldn't really work. Besides, if you're interested in car maintenance then surely you'd just seek an apprenticeship at a car workshop or look at a degree in engineering?
@@saching2753 Thanks for proving my point. So by your reasoning, after 11 years of study, I should be a mathematician, right? Or, to put it another way, is 'everyone' more likely to need to know the Fibonacci Sequence or how to get a mortgage? Or change a car tyre? And why did I study 4 years of French?? The stuff taught at schools is useless for 99% of people, other than to benchmark some bullshit grade that means nothing in life other than to get you into a university. It's out of date, out of touch with reality, and has very little value in life to most people.
nastyevilninja I really haven't proven your point though. First off, you don't learn the Fibonacci sequence stuff in school. In maths, you learn about compound interest, which is way more valuable. my point is that there are just some things which someone shouldn't have to be spoon-fed (like how to change a car tyre!). These are just things you learn as you go through life. Part of school is helping the student discover and make a solid idea of what kind of things they are interested in. That's why you get more choices with the subjects you do as you progress through secondary. As for learning French, it may seem pointless, but it (allegedly) is something that employers look for - that's preparing them for life isn't it? And besides, if you feel that the whole grade system isn't for you, then you can just as easily look for a job or some form of work experience after GCSEs, nobody is forcing you to go to uni. Don't be salty about the school system just because you may not have been as academically inclined, there are many students that find some aspects of school fun and enjoyable.
I agree. You want the hub to have no wheel on it for as little time as reasonably possible just in case the jack fails. You also do not want to be faffing about jacking the car up further whilst the wheel is off. And I wouldn't put my foot under the wheel of a car that is on a jack.
Love driving instructors going the extra mile for their students (and really anybody on TH-cam) even though not necessary for the test, its essential in day to day driving
Great video Ash. Seems you got your daily exercise from that too! Several note on all this: 1. Garages are notorious for overtightning the lug nuts with their electric wrenches when changing or rotating tires. Make sure to ask them to only tighten to the correct torque and it doesn't hurt to lubricate the lug nuts with grease. 2. As others have said, try to drive somewhere safe before changing a wheel. The worst nightmare would be attempting an offside wheel change on the hard shoulder of a motorway...at night in the rain. 3. Someone sensibly mentioned hi viz vest. I would add some sort of illuminating / flashing warning device to place some distance behind the car 4. There are two products one can buy to put in the tires to supposedly make life much easier: One is the so called tire goo that you put in each tyre in advance, so that if you do get a nail in the tread, the goo and centrifugal force fills any holes right away, even if you pull the nail out. The other product is the emergency tire inflator that inflates and fills a flat tyre long enough for you to drive on and get it repaired later, without having to change the wheel right away. Anyone have any experience with ether one of those two products. 5. Check tyre pressures regularly. In particular, as alloy wheels age, they can develop hairline cracks that can allow air to escape from the tyre. 6. Always carry some sort of tyre pump and tyre gauge 7. Carry a puncture repair kit so that as you can often plug up holes as a result of a nail in the tread. 8. Inspect your tyres for not only tread depth but for any nails and stones too. 10. Unless you have the aforementioned tyre repair kit, tyre goo or emergency inflator, do not remove an embedded nail as that is what's keeping the air in. 11. If ever you are driving with the window open and you hear a tell tale "tak tak tak" coming from one of the wheels, it will almost certainly be either a stone or nail in a tyre, so well worth inspecting. 12. Well worth reading your car manual and familiarizing yiruself with the tyre changing process in advance, as well as familiarizing yourself with your cars tyre changing equipment. Have I missed anything? 🙂
Point 4 - not sure that the goo stuff actually works 🤔. Point 9 - hey where is point 9? You wrote that with invisible ink rofl. OK - joking aside you made some valid points. Reprimand me later for taking the p#$$. Cabin fever is really getting to me here.
I've heard that goo is quite effective but that's the product you put into the tyres in advance in case you get a puncture. They actually had a stand at Blenheim Palace last year during the super car and Bentley Sunday. Over 1300 Bentleys of all ages there btw, it was incredible. Re the missing number 9, I must have been using the Canadian numbering system there Graham! Have to admit, I wrote that novel in a bit of a hurry but thank you for pointing it out.
Point 1 - you don’t need to worry about over tightening the lug nuts on a normal car, my dad and I use a air wrench instead of the inferior electric one to get the centre lock nut off our classic rally car but then use a proper torque wrench to put them on so we don’t mess the thread up
@@grahamnutt8958 In the UK sidewalls cannot now be legally repaired. My father was a 'Tyre Technician' and when I spent a summer working in his Dunlop owned tyre depot we refused to repair any tyre that had 'goo' in it. That may have changed since 1967 :-)
@@TheAlanSaunders That is worth knowing and appreciated. To be fair I would only ever consider a repair if within the area of tread - never the sidewall - even if a replacement costs £150. As for remoulds....... an absolute no-no! Small price to pay compared to your life. Thanks & stay safe pal 👍.
A Great advice video most people need to watch .This is an Essential skill to motoring and can be deadly if done badly .. Mistakes I commonly witness are : Not knowing where the spare wheel or tool kit is housed / not parking in a safe off road place if possible ( get off that fast road even if driving very slowly on flat ) / leaving passangers in car ( think weight distribution and rocking ) and letting people crowd around the car ( Willi Betz just got one with the mirrors ) / only jacking car up high enough to remove flat wheel - new one needs more ground clearance and any fiddling a out with a scissor jack is best done while wheel is still in place .. Like yourself I always push my spare under incase of jack slip or failure ( yes this happens ) . People also need to realise that punctures will happen at the worst times ( 2 am on sunday or bank holiday ) in the worst places and in all weathers night or day . Practice like here at home to not be left stranded . My wheel kit always has work gloves / lightweight over trousers ( no fun kneeling about in the dirt on a suit ) a small but sturdy jack base wooden block in case of puncture in field or track and a long steel bar to make grunting obsolete . I really don’t know why some car manufacturers don’t offer a true spare wheel ( maybe to have more boot space ) but those little 80 km / h things or spray canisters are useless .
"not parking in a safe off road place if possible ( get off that fast road even if driving very slowly on flat" Someone on a Melbourne freeway, tried to get under a car to see what was wrong. Trouble is he was in the middle of 5 lanes at the time. Fortunately the emergency breakdown vehicle turned up before someone killed him and no doubt gave him a serve!
Kevin Martin : when I drove trucks , you wouldn’t believe some of what I saw ... I really don’t know how some people were not struck by passing traffic ..I saw people leave the kids in the broken down car thinking that kept them safe ... not from that 40 tonne truck it won’t ( either being hit or just the wind vortex blowing the car off the jack )
@@afitzsimons That’s newer cars for you. Both my cars have full size spares, 1998 Toyota Celica and 2003 Toyota Celica. I also still have the original took kits and jacks that came with them.
Hi Ashley I’m glad it’s not just me that huffs and puffs when changing a wheel ( as I did just the other day ) great video as always on a subject many of us take for granted 👍🏼
Being such an old bloke I totally overlooked the "run flat" option lol. Thanks for the refresher course. Like yourself it has been many years since I had to change a wheel. Locking wheel nut last is excellent advice; likewise tightening opposite lugs - not quite sure how to get around that with 5 lugs though 🤔. Health and Safety add on though if people will indulge me here: Instead of using your foot I strongly recommend a suitable size tapered block of wood - if the jack fails then you are in big trouble!! If your boot is big enough (and you don't mind the extra weight being carried) then the Trolley jack is less likely to fail than the Scissor type. That is absolutely not a criticism of Ashley - just Mr Asperger's here taking safety one step further. First thing though is get to the safest spot possible before the wheel change. To those with whom I have had some dialogue with on Community post today - thanks folks. Stay safe everyone and let us all get through this lockdown period with our sanity intact! Peace 👍.
Those run flat tyres are a mystery .. i once had a client in a BMW blow one out at the side wall .. coat him a night in hotel and two brand new tyres because of equal wear issues mixing old with new ... but this is a very good advice to those with little or no knowledge of how its done .
@@lordlucan7655 Having thought a bit further since my original post I'm aware that many manufacturers do one of two things; run flat tyres that mean no spare wheel or supply a super skinny spare. Both options are "allegedly" for weight reduction and/or penny pinching reasons. I prefer the good old fashioned route of one (possibly two) spare wheels. Extra weight in my car isn't an issue as it's an old tanklike Rover P5B with huge fuel consumption to match 😆. Thanks for the reply bud. Take care out there 👍.
Graham Nutt : i would never buy a car that didn’t come with a real spare ( not from chrysler though - you need a fork lift to lift the bloody car , just even see where they have hidden the spare between exhaust and gearbox ) that or a guaranteed service 24 / 7 / 365 anywhere in under an hour
@@lordlucan7655 Assume you're on about the 300C (looks a bit like a Bentley)? After sales service from that company (from what I hear) is pretty poor to say the least. I take your word for it as to where the spare wheel is located 😆. Breakdown service within an hour? Hahaha - that's a good one mate. Not sure such a thing exists rofl. Thanks for the giggles 😃.
Graham Nutt : 300 c and Grande Voyager both have the spare wheel in the worst place ever imagined ... Talking of Bentley , I had one guy in one get a flat and ask me to kindly change it and find nearest dealer ... ha ha .. he was half way through eastern France on way to Italy , and now had a little 80 km/h toy car wheel on his Bentley that had only two tyres his size in the whole country .. two hours away ...
This was a brilliant video for knowing how to change wheel. I must say Ashley, each time I've parked at a shopping centre a VW SUV has always been parked there with one front wheel and a spare green tyre. I don't know why but it does look silly leaving it on a car for so long
Hi Ashley, perhaps you could extend this to a whole series on buying and running a car? Maybe you could borrow an older vehicle from one of your previous pupils. I would loan my 2007 Renault Clio DcI 86 (78,000 miles) but I am much too far away. It would be hilarious watching you trying to use the 'hoist' to get the spare wheel back in place and fitting the scissor jack back into it's compartment! A 1920 Ford Model 'T' would be even more interesting as would any pre-synchromesh gearbox vehicle. I cannot believe how difficult youths today find it to drive the safest most simplified vehicles. They do not believe they need to understand how a vehicle works. In my Gliding Club we have young people who are 'air minded', they can solo at fourteen years old and are better, safer and more responsible for that.They may also get the opportunity to drive manual and automatic cars, even a nine ton bus, on the airfield but insurance policies vary. My OCD engineering background requires that I read and understand the owner's manual; when you are picking up a 'new-to-you' vehicle the manual is available online. It has extensive, accurate, safe procedures including wheel changing and jump-starting as well as much other good advice. My s/h '07 Clio came with locking wheel nuts but their hexagonal key did not fit the standard wheel brace :-( There is a commonly available extendable ½" drive wheel brace that comes with a reversible 17mm/19mm socket. My girlfriend was over-the-moon (not) when I gift wrapped one for her birthday present! I taught her how to check tyre pressures, coolant levels, oil levels (and where to add it) but, despite a biannual occurrence of punctures (due to flints and nails in previously tipped builders waste on our unmade road) she never did change a wheel - a male stranger, postman, neighbour always insisted on helping the damsel in distress. The incompetent male neighbour wrecked the jack! My particular annoyance is the lack of skid avoidance and skid training. Much as our glider pilots learn to avoid stalls and spins but are also required to recover when the correct action is counterintuitive, all drivers should learn how to deal with slippery surfaces on a 'skid-pan'. HTH, Alan.
Just a quick one to add with run flat tyres, they are designed not to come off the rim whilst running flat but once ran flat the tyre will have to be replaced as the tyre wouldn't be able to be repaired.
There great if you get a puncture on motorway, avoids tyre coming off rim whilst slowing down and getting onto hard shoulder but then also let's you get off the hard shoulder. For a town car I'm in agreement with you but I would always carry a compressor to blow it back up as many times as needed if possible to get to a garage instead of running it flat
Good video, nothing skipped, all real life, one tip for all is to have a knee mat in the boot or knee pads, they really help when you are in a pinch and need to do this, most of your energy is sapped by standing over and bending over the job
before i saw in the vid, I was going to suggest folk buy a 1/2" breaker bar and socket of the right size, but see you're already ahead of me. I tend to get rid of the locking wheel nuts on whatever car I have, as tend to find they can cause more problems than they solve. I may consider using them on something with higher value wheels tho.
Find people don't tend to get torque especially if they more familiar with it as a performance number for their car engine (still the same thing) Simply idea is if you have a 1 foot (Foot) wrench you need to apply 105Lbs (pounds) of force or a 2 foot wrench 52.5lbs force / 6inch wrench 210lbs Im 200lbs so if i had a 1 foot wrench i could put it horizontal and put about half my body weight on it would be around right Not what id call an accurate gauge but gives you a good idea of how much force you need I do still tend to just gorilla everything as tight as I can get it
Very good....some key points: 1. When putting the bolts in by hand, make sure they are all finger loose at first, then wiggle the wheel to make sure it is seated properly. You don't know how many times I have had rooky mechanics bolt down a tire crooked and then as soon as they pull the car out BANG, then the bolt sheers. You do not have to do opposing sides at this time. 2. Later model BMW has an 90-ish torque to it....you shouldn't need to strain as hard as you did. To do this without a torque wrench, you can use your hand as a guide similar to how you want your steak cooked (rare/medium/well).....60 to 80 torque specs, you use only your first finger palm joint on the very end of the wrench (the one you have), when you feel it start to slip off, you're there. For 80 to 100, you use your second finger palm joint....and for higher, just a single quick pump action with pretty much your entire weight. You can stop by majority of mechanic shops to have your tires torqued for safety if you are feeling unsure, and usually free of charge (at least to the shop, just tip them a few bucks and they'll do it for you). HOWEVER....many spare tires torque specs are set at 60....do not go far beyond this. These wheels are differently designed and high torque can make it very difficult for a mechanic (the bevel can pinch the threads on the bolts if tightened too much and will require a torch). I do like the idea of using the tire as a backup for the jack, excellent sense there! Lastly....if you think the tire can be "saved," do not use fix-a-flat or any "quick fix" solutions on flat tires. Plugs are a great tool to have in your car in emergencies as well, they are very simple to use. I know I say some stupid stuff on this channel from time to time, all in fun, but the above is my experience as a mechanic serious mode.
@@StaleNinja ...yes, the measurements I use were in lb, not nm. I was less caring about the measurement type but rather how to figure it out by hand because most people don't have a torque bar. Sorry
Had to hit a kerb recently coming into a roundabout in my 2016 Astra, it was one of those with jutting out kerb. A boyracer flew over the roundabout (just off a hill), with his nose aiming at me, I swerved (only doing 5-7mph), hit the kerb, and put a big gash in the sidewall. I have TPMS, but wasn't sure if they were run flat tyres, so ended up paying £175 to RAC to come take me home. My new Astra has no spare wheel, only a puncture repair kit, which is useless for a gash!
You go for the same method as me, get them as tight as you possibly can. I’d much rather struggle to get the wheel off further down the road than it coming loose at speed and falling off.
There are women drivers too that would end up having a really difficult job getting them off though, you get a very obvious banging noise if nuts are loose, the thread on the nuts is running the same direction as the wheels move going forwards so they shouldn't be in any hurry to become loose.
I was once called out by my mother who was stuck out on a roadside with a puncture. I couldn't pull the wheel off the axle, however hard I tried. Fortunately I was able to flag down a passing AA van who leant me a rubber (or soft plastic?) - headed hammer which soon did the job with a few taps around the inside of the wheel. The AA man said stuck wheels were a very common problem and he suggested carrying such a hammer with your toolkit, especially if you have an older car if the wheels haven't been removed for a long time.
The spare wheel can often be used to persuade a stuck wheel. A _thin_ coat of copper paste on the mating surfaces of the rim and hub will help for the next time.
Happened to me too but outside my house luckily, took ages to get the wheel off even with a hammer. It's worth removing the wheels once a year and giving everything a clean I think.
Two things everyone with a spare wheel assembly in their car should carry: a pair of wheel chocks, and a 2ft ½inch breaker bar with suitable socket(s). Instead of putting your foot under the wheel whilst it's jacked up, chock the wheel. Or wedge on the brake pedal with the jack handle behind the clutch and accelerator pedals.
Two items I recommend. 1. Leather gardening gloves. They protect your hands from scrapes and dirt. 2. An X shaped wheel brace. If the nuts are tight you can 'pull and push', hands one side and foot the other. Also, you can spin them to remove/install the nuts quickly.
Do not undo wheel bolts the way Ashley shows. If that wheel brace slips off with you fingers wrapped around the brace you may well slam down onto the ground knuckles first. Palms open! For those that do not have the strength in their hands and arms to undo the wheel bolts, stand on the wheel brace. Putting one foot and pressing down should do it but not always. Do not remove the wheel in the order Ashley shows you, what will happen if the jack collapses? Put the spare wheel under the body of the car near the jack as soon as you can. Once you have removed the wheel swap with the spare under the car as soon as possible. Ashley has his foot under the wheel when he puts it back on and only the jack supporting the car, that goodness it did not collapse. Do not leave the jacking handle connected to the jack as it is a trip hazard and the jack could be dislodged if someone catches the jacking handle when doing up wheel bolts, do one miss one if there is an odd number, do diagonally if 4 bolts I would make sure the handbrake is on and the car is in park if an auto or in gear if a manual and use the engine to help make sure the car does not roll when a wheel is lifted off the ground. Good idea to chock other wheels to help prevent rolling. Don't forget to take a manual out of gear before start it :) Did not hear any advice about having wheel bolts torqued to the correct setting once wheel fitted No one should remain in the car when it is being jacked up
Front wheel can leave handbrake on, but if changing rear wheel release handbrake after loosing nuts before lifting wheels of ground. Leave in gear, chock wheels if possible Wheel won’t come off if handbrake applied .
hey! just an idea for an indoor - style video . you could cover the hazard perception test using videos from your own driving this could help new drivers pass their theory test and be better drivers when they pass, my friend failed his and he doesn't really understand it but you'd do a great job at explaining !
May I just add one little tip: if you are changing a wheel at home it's wise to use the longest bar possible to get extra leverage... but make sure to carry that same bar in the car as the weedy little one you get in the toolkit won't be able to undo the nuts if you need to change it at the roadside.
I reckon in Year 11 at High Schools in the UK they should replace P.E with a Motoring class, discussing the theory of driving and cars etc and lessons such as this.
Also don't forget that you have different bolts for alloy wheels and steel wheels. Bolts for alloys having a rotating collar to prevent damage to wheels
I'd say be wary of using your foot to give some extra support when putting the wheel on as if the jack fails, your foot is stuck (although if you're putting a spare on then you'll have the normal wheel under the car as he said).
Just note that doing it too tight can be just as bad as not doing them tight enough guys. I'm sure you might have seen videos of someones entire wheel coming off their car while in motion. My rule of thumb for doing it without a torque bar is just sort of knowing by feel. It just 'feels' tight enough.
Always loosen the locking wheel nut first and tighten it last. Also I do not know why most manufacturers have gone to bolts rather than studs and nuts. It used to be so much easier to hang the wheel on the studs and then fit the nuts. And something always worth remembering. Lefty loosy, righty tighty.
Beware that some wheels have a plastic lug protecting the wheel bolts (like mine). Usually you will have a lug clip with your spare wheel which allows you to pull them out.
At 8:50 the marks down the side of the car are holograms and are as a result of poor polishing technique, give the Car Cleaning Guru a shout to get em sorted
JonTheComputerDoctor or just keep wipes in your car for whenever you need to clean your hands or any spillage, wipe the wheel or dashboard etc. Atm I have anti bac hand wipes and some dashboard wipes in mine. And hand sanitiser.
It's not good advice to say tighten them as much as you can, and then a little more. That's definitely over-tightening them. With alloy wheels it can crack the metal and in extreme circumstances can cause the wheel to shatter under stress and in effect come off the car while it is moving
I've had too many punctures for my lifetime. In the boot: spare jacket, hi viz, gloves, spider wrench or extending handle breaker bar, spare 19mm socket, warning triangle, hand wipes.... and I won't buy a car that doesn't have some form of spare
I can relate! Had to hit a kerb recently coming into a roundabout in my 2016 Astra, it was one of those with jutting out kerb. A boyracer flew over the roundabout (just off a hill), with his nose aiming at me, I swerved (only doing 5-7mph), hit the kerb, and put a big gash in the sidewall. I have TPMS, but wasn't sure if they were run flat tyres, so ended up paying £175 to RAC to come take me home. My new Astra has no spare wheel, only a puncture repair kit, which is useless for a gash!
Not watched the video yet as I know how to change a wheel. I take it that you are going as stir crazy as the rest of the country (as I was saying to hans this morning) BTW Hans is our dishwasher, we call it hans because it was made in Germany and "Hands that do dishes..."
Ask your local tyre fitter to replace the bolts by hand, and not with an airgun, otherwise, you'll have a tough job getting them off at the side of the road. Avoid those franchise repair garages too, monkeys in boiler suits. They are worse than USELESS. And carry a torch as part of your emergency kit.
Every air gun I have used (in 1966) had a torque limiter. Every tyre depot I have used in the UK for the last fifty years tightened the wheel nuts with a torque wrench to the manufacturers specification.
New cars dont come with a spare wheel or jack for some (money grabbing) reason. When I got mine a while back I stuck a trolley jack and a new spare I bought for it in the boot. P.s. scissor Jacks are a bit shite imo but they do the job in an emergency
Good video, Ashley.
I have a few extra suggestions:
1.. First check parking brake is set plus P (auto) or 1st gear (manual).
2.. Check car handbook for exact position of jacking point rather than just looking for what you think is the correct spot. If you pick the wrong spot you could injure yourself and damage your car.
3.. I wouldn't use my foot to help locate the wheel on the studs. If the jack fails you're in trouble.
4.. If your car has a spare wheel check the tyre pressure occasionally. Over time it can lose pressure.
5.. Using a long bar and as much force as you can could overtighten the nuts and damage alloy wheels. Long bar is handy to loosen the nuts, but the wheel brace supplied with the car is sufficient to tighten them.
6.. Carry a flat piece of wood (e.g. a chopping board) to place under the jack in case you're stopped on soft ground.
7.. Drive for a while (half an hour?) then stop and re-check tightness of nuts.
Certainly agree with the foot, I wouldn't either for the reason you state.
Nor should you EVER put any part of your body under the car, when it's on a jack. I had the same design of jack fail on me (stripped thread), luckily only had jacked the car halfway. Gave me a scare!
Definitely agree with Point 3. You could trap your foot under the wheel, and if this happens in the middle of nowhere and you're on your own, you're in big trouble.
This is the kind of thing they SHOULD teach kids at school!
Is it though???
@@saching2753 Yes. Useful life skills, like getting a mortgage, house repairs and basic vehicle maintenance. Not Pythagoras' fucking Theorum.
nastyevilninja everyone else seems to have managed with all of these things in the past... Can you imagine having a weekly lesson in school where you learn how to fix car parts or something? It wouldn't really work. Besides, if you're interested in car maintenance then surely you'd just seek an apprenticeship at a car workshop or look at a degree in engineering?
@@saching2753 Thanks for proving my point. So by your reasoning, after 11 years of study, I should be a mathematician, right?
Or, to put it another way, is 'everyone' more likely to need to know the Fibonacci Sequence or how to get a mortgage? Or change a car tyre? And why did I study 4 years of French?? The stuff taught at schools is useless for 99% of people, other than to benchmark some bullshit grade that means nothing in life other than to get you into a university. It's out of date, out of touch with reality, and has very little value in life to most people.
nastyevilninja I really haven't proven your point though. First off, you don't learn the Fibonacci sequence stuff in school. In maths, you learn about compound interest, which is way more valuable. my point is that there are just some things which someone shouldn't have to be spoon-fed (like how to change a car tyre!). These are just things you learn as you go through life. Part of school is helping the student discover and make a solid idea of what kind of things they are interested in. That's why you get more choices with the subjects you do as you progress through secondary. As for learning French, it may seem pointless, but it (allegedly) is something that employers look for - that's preparing them for life isn't it? And besides, if you feel that the whole grade system isn't for you, then you can just as easily look for a job or some form of work experience after GCSEs, nobody is forcing you to go to uni. Don't be salty about the school system just because you may not have been as academically inclined, there are many students that find some aspects of school fun and enjoyable.
If you only jack the car up enough to take the flat off, there won't be enough clearance to the road to put a fully inflated spare on
Unless you've got a space saver which is closer in diameter to the castors you get on furniture!
I agree. You want the hub to have no wheel on it for as little time as reasonably possible just in case the jack fails.
You also do not want to be faffing about jacking the car up further whilst the wheel is off.
And I wouldn't put my foot under the wheel of a car that is on a jack.
Love driving instructors going the extra mile for their students (and really anybody on TH-cam) even though not necessary for the test, its essential in day to day driving
Especially when driving around glass riddled streets on estates that have gone to the dogs !
It’s also good practice to loosen the bolts by going with the opposite bolts, not only when tightening though it’s more important in the latter case.
Great video Ash. Seems you got your daily exercise from that too!
Several note on all this:
1. Garages are notorious for overtightning the lug nuts with their electric wrenches when changing or rotating tires. Make sure to ask them to only tighten to the correct torque and it doesn't hurt to lubricate the lug nuts with grease.
2. As others have said, try to drive somewhere safe before changing a wheel. The worst nightmare would be attempting an offside wheel change on the hard shoulder of a motorway...at night in the rain.
3. Someone sensibly mentioned hi viz vest. I would add some sort of illuminating / flashing warning device to place some distance behind the car
4. There are two products one can buy to put in the tires to supposedly make life much easier: One is the so called tire goo that you put in each tyre in advance, so that if you do get a nail in the tread, the goo and centrifugal force fills any holes right away, even if you pull the nail out. The other product is the emergency tire inflator that inflates and fills a flat tyre long enough for you to drive on and get it repaired later, without having to change the wheel right away. Anyone have any experience with ether one of those two products.
5. Check tyre pressures regularly. In particular, as alloy wheels age, they can develop hairline cracks that can allow air to escape from the tyre.
6. Always carry some sort of tyre pump and tyre gauge
7. Carry a puncture repair kit so that as you can often plug up holes as a result of a nail in the tread.
8. Inspect your tyres for not only tread depth but for any nails and stones too.
10. Unless you have the aforementioned tyre repair kit, tyre goo or emergency inflator, do not remove an embedded nail as that is what's keeping the air in.
11. If ever you are driving with the window open and you hear a tell tale "tak tak tak" coming from one of the wheels, it will almost certainly be either a stone or nail in a tyre, so well worth inspecting.
12. Well worth reading your car manual and familiarizing yiruself with the tyre changing process in advance, as well as familiarizing yourself with your cars tyre changing equipment.
Have I missed anything? 🙂
Point 4 - not sure that the goo stuff actually works 🤔.
Point 9 - hey where is point 9? You wrote that with invisible ink rofl.
OK - joking aside you made some valid points. Reprimand me later for taking the p#$$. Cabin fever is really getting to me here.
I've heard that goo is quite effective but that's the product you put into the tyres in advance in case you get a puncture. They actually had a stand at Blenheim Palace last year during the super car and Bentley Sunday. Over 1300 Bentleys of all ages there btw, it was incredible.
Re the missing number 9, I must have been using the Canadian numbering system there Graham! Have to admit, I wrote that novel in a bit of a hurry but thank you for pointing it out.
Point 1 - you don’t need to worry about over tightening the lug nuts on a normal car, my dad and I use a air wrench instead of the inferior electric one to get the centre lock nut off our classic rally car but then use a proper torque wrench to put them on so we don’t mess the thread up
@@grahamnutt8958 In the UK sidewalls cannot now be legally repaired. My father was a 'Tyre Technician' and when I spent a summer working in his Dunlop owned tyre depot we refused to repair any tyre that had 'goo' in it. That may have changed since 1967 :-)
@@TheAlanSaunders That is worth knowing and appreciated. To be fair I would only ever consider a repair if within the area of tread - never the sidewall - even if a replacement costs £150. As for remoulds....... an absolute no-no!
Small price to pay compared to your life. Thanks & stay safe pal 👍.
A Great advice video most people need to watch .This is an Essential skill to motoring and can be deadly if done badly ..
Mistakes I commonly witness are : Not knowing where the spare wheel or tool kit is housed / not parking in a safe off road place if possible ( get off that fast road even if driving very slowly on flat ) / leaving passangers in car ( think weight distribution and rocking ) and letting people crowd around the car ( Willi Betz just got one with the mirrors ) / only jacking car up high enough to remove flat wheel - new one needs more ground clearance and any fiddling a out with a scissor jack is best done while wheel is still in place ..
Like yourself I always push my spare under incase of jack slip or failure ( yes this happens ) .
People also need to realise that punctures will happen at the worst times ( 2 am on sunday or bank holiday ) in the worst places and in all weathers night or day . Practice like here at home to not be left stranded .
My wheel kit always has work gloves / lightweight over trousers ( no fun kneeling about in the dirt on a suit ) a small but sturdy jack base wooden block in case of puncture in field or track and a long steel bar to make grunting obsolete .
I really don’t know why some car manufacturers don’t offer a true spare wheel ( maybe to have more boot space ) but those little 80 km / h things or spray canisters are useless .
"not parking in a safe off road place if possible ( get off that fast road even if driving very slowly on flat"
Someone on a Melbourne freeway, tried to get under a car to see what was wrong.
Trouble is he was in the middle of 5 lanes at the time.
Fortunately the emergency breakdown vehicle turned up before someone killed him and no doubt gave him a serve!
Kevin Martin : when I drove trucks , you wouldn’t believe some of what I saw ... I really don’t know how some people were not struck by passing traffic ..I saw people leave the kids in the broken down car thinking that kept them safe ... not from that 40 tonne truck it won’t ( either being hit or just the wind vortex blowing the car off the jack )
Always worth checking the spare tyre pressure when routinely checking road wheels. I've been caught out on a dark wet night with a flat spare!
Spare tyre? how many cars have them. My car doesn't even have a jack and only has a can of gunk.
@@afitzsimons That’s newer cars for you. Both my cars have full size spares, 1998 Toyota Celica and 2003 Toyota Celica. I also still have the original took kits and jacks that came with them.
Thank you! I got stranded and had to wait for a stranger to help me with changing the wheel when I was first driving. Great help!
Great video, thanks Ashley. Drivers of all levels would benefit from your tutorial.
Really great video for people that might not've been exposed to having to change a wheel before. Great job!
I would add that the wheels should also be chocked where possible to help prevent the car potentially rolling off the jack.
I think that you've covered every tip and trick.
Hi Ashley I’m glad it’s not just me that huffs and puffs when changing a wheel ( as I did just the other day ) great video as always on a subject many of us take for granted 👍🏼
Being such an old bloke I totally overlooked the "run flat" option lol.
Thanks for the refresher course. Like yourself it has been many years since I had to change a wheel.
Locking wheel nut last is excellent advice; likewise tightening opposite lugs - not quite sure how to get around that with 5 lugs though 🤔.
Health and Safety add on though if people will indulge me here:
Instead of using your foot I strongly recommend a suitable size tapered block of wood - if the jack fails then you are in big trouble!! If your boot is big enough (and you don't mind the extra weight being carried) then the Trolley jack is less likely to fail than the Scissor type.
That is absolutely not a criticism of Ashley - just Mr Asperger's here taking safety one step further. First thing though is get to the safest spot possible before the wheel change.
To those with whom I have had some dialogue with on Community post today - thanks folks.
Stay safe everyone and let us all get through this lockdown period with our sanity intact! Peace 👍.
Those run flat tyres are a mystery .. i once had a client in a BMW blow one out at the side wall ..
coat him a night in hotel and two brand new tyres because of equal wear issues mixing old with new ...
but this is a very good advice to those with little or no knowledge of how its done .
@@lordlucan7655 Having thought a bit further since my original post I'm aware that many manufacturers do one of two things; run flat tyres that mean no spare wheel or supply a super skinny spare. Both options are "allegedly" for weight reduction and/or penny pinching reasons. I prefer the good old fashioned route of one (possibly two) spare wheels. Extra weight in my car isn't an issue as it's an old tanklike Rover P5B with huge fuel consumption to match 😆.
Thanks for the reply bud. Take care out there 👍.
Graham Nutt : i would never buy a car that didn’t come with a real spare ( not from chrysler though - you need a fork lift to lift the bloody car , just even see where they have hidden the spare between exhaust and gearbox )
that or a guaranteed service 24 / 7 / 365 anywhere in under an hour
@@lordlucan7655 Assume you're on about the 300C (looks a bit like a Bentley)? After sales service from that company (from what I hear) is pretty poor to say the least. I take your word for it as to where the spare wheel is located 😆.
Breakdown service within an hour? Hahaha - that's a good one mate. Not sure such a thing exists rofl.
Thanks for the giggles 😃.
Graham Nutt : 300 c and Grande Voyager both have the spare wheel in the worst place ever imagined ... Talking of Bentley , I had one guy in one get a flat and ask me to kindly change it and find nearest dealer ... ha ha .. he was half way through eastern France on way to Italy , and now had a little 80 km/h toy car wheel on his Bentley that had only two tyres his size in the whole country .. two hours away ...
This was a brilliant video for knowing how to change wheel. I must say Ashley, each time I've parked at a shopping centre a VW SUV has always been parked there with one front wheel and a spare green tyre. I don't know why but it does look silly leaving it on a car for so long
Cheers Ash, appreciate you making the video. Its been a while since I've had to change a wheel so its good to have a refresher on how to do it.
I know all of that but cheers for showing here for those that might have forgotten or didn't know at all.
Thanks Ashley, really helps
Hi Ashley, perhaps you could extend this to a whole series on buying and running a car? Maybe you could borrow an older vehicle from one of your previous pupils. I would loan my 2007 Renault Clio DcI 86 (78,000 miles) but I am much too far away. It would be hilarious watching you trying to use the 'hoist' to get the spare wheel back in place and fitting the scissor jack back into it's compartment!
A 1920 Ford Model 'T' would be even more interesting as would any pre-synchromesh gearbox vehicle. I cannot believe how difficult youths today find it to drive the safest most simplified vehicles. They do not believe they need to understand how a vehicle works. In my Gliding Club we have young people who are 'air minded', they can solo at fourteen years old and are better, safer and more responsible for that.They may also get the opportunity to drive manual and automatic cars, even a nine ton bus, on the airfield but insurance policies vary.
My OCD engineering background requires that I read and understand the owner's manual; when you are picking up a 'new-to-you' vehicle the manual is available online. It has extensive, accurate, safe procedures including wheel changing and jump-starting as well as much other good advice.
My s/h '07 Clio came with locking wheel nuts but their hexagonal key did not fit the standard wheel brace :-(
There is a commonly available extendable ½" drive wheel brace that comes with a reversible 17mm/19mm socket. My girlfriend was over-the-moon (not) when I gift wrapped one for her birthday present! I taught her how to check tyre pressures, coolant levels, oil levels (and where to add it) but, despite a biannual occurrence of punctures (due to flints and nails in previously tipped builders waste on our unmade road) she never did change a wheel - a male stranger, postman, neighbour always insisted on helping the damsel in distress. The incompetent male neighbour wrecked the jack!
My particular annoyance is the lack of skid avoidance and skid training. Much as our glider pilots learn to avoid stalls and spins but are also required to recover when the correct action is counterintuitive, all drivers should learn how to deal with slippery surfaces on a 'skid-pan'.
HTH, Alan.
also a good idea to retighten after 50 km or whatever it is in miles.
Just a quick one to add with run flat tyres, they are designed not to come off the rim whilst running flat but once ran flat the tyre will have to be replaced as the tyre wouldn't be able to be repaired.
I never could see the point of those silly things.
There great if you get a puncture on motorway, avoids tyre coming off rim whilst slowing down and getting onto hard shoulder but then also let's you get off the hard shoulder. For a town car I'm in agreement with you but I would always carry a compressor to blow it back up as many times as needed if possible to get to a garage instead of running it flat
Good video, nothing skipped, all real life, one tip for all is to have a knee mat in the boot or knee pads, they really help when you are in a pinch and need to do this, most of your energy is sapped by standing over and bending over the job
before i saw in the vid, I was going to suggest folk buy a 1/2" breaker bar and socket of the right size, but see you're already ahead of me. I tend to get rid of the locking wheel nuts on whatever car I have, as tend to find they can cause more problems than they solve. I may consider using them on something with higher value wheels tho.
Find people don't tend to get torque especially if they more familiar with it as a performance number for their car engine (still the same thing)
Simply idea is if you have a 1 foot (Foot) wrench you need to apply 105Lbs (pounds) of force
or a 2 foot wrench 52.5lbs force / 6inch wrench 210lbs
Im 200lbs so if i had a 1 foot wrench i could put it horizontal and put about half my body weight on it would be around right
Not what id call an accurate gauge but gives you a good idea of how much force you need
I do still tend to just gorilla everything as tight as I can get it
Very good....some key points:
1. When putting the bolts in by hand, make sure they are all finger loose at first, then wiggle the wheel to make sure it is seated properly. You don't know how many times I have had rooky mechanics bolt down a tire crooked and then as soon as they pull the car out BANG, then the bolt sheers. You do not have to do opposing sides at this time.
2. Later model BMW has an 90-ish torque to it....you shouldn't need to strain as hard as you did. To do this without a torque wrench, you can use your hand as a guide similar to how you want your steak cooked (rare/medium/well).....60 to 80 torque specs, you use only your first finger palm joint on the very end of the wrench (the one you have), when you feel it start to slip off, you're there. For 80 to 100, you use your second finger palm joint....and for higher, just a single quick pump action with pretty much your entire weight. You can stop by majority of mechanic shops to have your tires torqued for safety if you are feeling unsure, and usually free of charge (at least to the shop, just tip them a few bucks and they'll do it for you).
HOWEVER....many spare tires torque specs are set at 60....do not go far beyond this. These wheels are differently designed and high torque can make it very difficult for a mechanic (the bevel can pinch the threads on the bolts if tightened too much and will require a torch).
I do like the idea of using the tire as a backup for the jack, excellent sense there!
Lastly....if you think the tire can be "saved," do not use fix-a-flat or any "quick fix" solutions on flat tires. Plugs are a great tool to have in your car in emergencies as well, they are very simple to use.
I know I say some stupid stuff on this channel from time to time, all in fun, but the above is my experience as a mechanic serious mode.
Robert Caldwell that would be 90lb ft and not 90nm?
@@StaleNinja ...yes, the measurements I use were in lb, not nm. I was less caring about the measurement type but rather how to figure it out by hand because most people don't have a torque bar. Sorry
Im a new driver and i only understood the first point you made :(
Had to hit a kerb recently coming into a roundabout in my 2016 Astra, it was one of those with jutting out kerb. A boyracer flew over the roundabout (just off a hill), with his nose aiming at me, I swerved (only doing 5-7mph), hit the kerb, and put a big gash in the sidewall. I have TPMS, but wasn't sure if they were run flat tyres, so ended up paying £175 to RAC to come take me home. My new Astra has no spare wheel, only a puncture repair kit, which is useless for a gash!
Do you have a solution to knee pain as a result of using the pedals and driving for an extended period of time?
Automatic
Its great when the wheel brace in the car actually fits the nuts 😅😄😃😂😁
You go for the same method as me, get them as tight as you possibly can. I’d much rather struggle to get the wheel off further down the road than it coming loose at speed and falling off.
There are women drivers too that would end up having a really difficult job getting them off though, you get a very obvious banging noise if nuts are loose, the thread on the nuts is running the same direction as the wheels move going forwards so they shouldn't be in any hurry to become loose.
@@marklittler784 Not necessarily. That tends to happen on Transit sized vehicles but most cars have standard clockwise threads.
@@BrightonandHoveActually Yes that's true, I have experienced loose wheel nuts but it was obvious by the noise.
I was once called out by my mother who was stuck out on a roadside with a puncture. I couldn't pull the wheel off the axle, however hard I tried. Fortunately I was able to flag down a passing AA van who leant me a rubber (or soft plastic?) - headed hammer which soon did the job with a few taps around the inside of the wheel. The AA man said stuck wheels were a very common problem and he suggested carrying such a hammer with your toolkit, especially if you have an older car if the wheels haven't been removed for a long time.
The spare wheel can often be used to persuade a stuck wheel. A _thin_ coat of copper paste on the mating surfaces of the rim and hub will help for the next time.
Happened to me too but outside my house luckily, took ages to get the wheel off even with a hammer. It's worth removing the wheels once a year and giving everything a clean I think.
Two things everyone with a spare wheel assembly in their car should carry: a pair of wheel chocks, and a 2ft ½inch breaker bar with suitable socket(s).
Instead of putting your foot under the wheel whilst it's jacked up, chock the wheel. Or wedge on the brake pedal with the jack handle behind the clutch and accelerator pedals.
Two items I recommend.
1. Leather gardening gloves. They protect your hands from scrapes and dirt.
2. An X shaped wheel brace. If the nuts are tight you can 'pull and push', hands one side and foot the other. Also, you can spin them to remove/install the nuts quickly.
This is great, wish I got taught how to do this. 😀 think this needs to be something everyone needs to do to pass the car.😀 Btw, love your channel
Do not undo wheel bolts the way Ashley shows. If that wheel brace slips off with you fingers wrapped around the brace you may well slam down onto the ground knuckles first.
Palms open! For those that do not have the strength in their hands and arms to undo the wheel bolts, stand on the wheel brace. Putting one foot and pressing down should do it but not always.
Do not remove the wheel in the order Ashley shows you, what will happen if the jack collapses? Put the spare wheel under the body of the car near the jack as soon as you can.
Once you have removed the wheel swap with the spare under the car as soon as possible.
Ashley has his foot under the wheel when he puts it back on and only the jack supporting the car, that goodness it did not collapse.
Do not leave the jacking handle connected to the jack as it is a trip hazard and the jack could be dislodged if someone catches the jacking handle
when doing up wheel bolts, do one miss one if there is an odd number, do diagonally if 4 bolts
I would make sure the handbrake is on and the car is in park if an auto or in gear if a manual and use the engine to help make sure the car does not roll when a wheel is lifted off the ground. Good idea to chock other wheels to help prevent rolling. Don't forget to take a manual out of gear before start it :)
Did not hear any advice about having wheel bolts torqued to the correct setting once wheel fitted
No one should remain in the car when it is being jacked up
Front wheel can leave handbrake on, but if changing rear wheel release handbrake after loosing nuts before lifting wheels of ground. Leave in gear, chock wheels if possible Wheel won’t come off if handbrake applied .
Eh? Rear brake drums may not come off if handbrake on, but the wheel will still come off the hub
might want to rethink that.
Great content Ash 🙌😊
top vid!! would you ever make technical driving videos - such as heal toe downshifting??
Handbrake on or off if changing a rear tyre?
Handbrake on and in gear for manual of P for auto
hey! just an idea for an indoor - style video . you could cover the hazard perception test using videos from your own driving this could help new drivers pass their theory test and be better drivers when they pass, my friend failed his and he doesn't really understand it but you'd do a great job at explaining !
May I just add one little tip: if you are changing a wheel at home it's wise to use the longest bar possible to get extra leverage... but make sure to carry that same bar in the car as the weedy little one you get in the toolkit won't be able to undo the nuts if you need to change it at the roadside.
Hmm what is in the back of my car... Firewood. Crowbar. Boltcutters. I might need another video :)
I reckon in Year 11 at High Schools in the UK they should replace P.E with a Motoring class, discussing the theory of driving and cars etc and lessons such as this.
One of the easiest and most important skills to know when driving
Also don't forget that you have different bolts for alloy wheels and steel wheels. Bolts for alloys having a rotating collar to prevent damage to wheels
You should ideally torque the bolts with a torque wrench as per the manual.
I'd say be wary of using your foot to give some extra support when putting the wheel on as if the jack fails, your foot is stuck (although if you're putting a spare on then you'll have the normal wheel under the car as he said).
Agreed, especially to steady the wheel when tightening. If the car moved that would not be good.
Agreed
Just note that doing it too tight can be just as bad as not doing them tight enough guys.
I'm sure you might have seen videos of someones entire wheel coming off their car while in motion. My rule of thumb for doing it without a torque bar is just sort of knowing by feel. It just 'feels' tight enough.
They’re not stock BMW wheels are they? What made you change the alloys Ashley?
Remember to torque bolts to the correct TAF rating.
With the torque wrench we all keep in the boot
_Woosh_
Mustang not many people carry a torque wrench, do it as tight as possible then if you want ask a garage to check.
To ease the confusion; TAF = Tight as fuck
No torque wrench necessary.
@@AKAMustang damn it.
Always loosen the locking wheel nut first and tighten it last.
Also I do not know why most manufacturers have gone to bolts rather than studs and nuts. It used to be so much easier to hang the wheel on the studs and then fit the nuts.
And something always worth remembering. Lefty loosy, righty tighty.
Breathing quite heavy there ash
lol
Shortness of breath and he coughed in the video as well
@@Plexipal its corona time
That's your one bit of exercise for the day.
I got my first flat tyre 8 days after my driving test lol.
Never put any body part under the wheel! Jacks fail!
Beware that some wheels have a plastic lug protecting the wheel bolts (like mine). Usually you will have a lug clip with your spare wheel which allows you to pull them out.
I don’t think I’d put my foot under the wheel. Like you said earlier in the video if the jack fails...🤬
Agreed 👍👏
I keep a breaker bar (long metal bar with a socket) in the boot to help get the nuts off much easier
Can't go wrong with a good jack
Sorry to be that guy but is it me or does your brand new bmw have swirl marks all over it, or is it just dirty finger prints?
At 8:50 the marks down the side of the car are holograms and are as a result of poor polishing technique, give the Car Cleaning Guru a shout to get em sorted
@@mcbombadier car cleaning guru and autoshine cars are great 😁
Always a good idea to have some disposable gloves for changing wheels.
JonTheComputerDoctor or just keep wipes in your car for whenever you need to clean your hands or any spillage, wipe the wheel or dashboard etc. Atm I have anti bac hand wipes and some dashboard wipes in mine. And hand sanitiser.
As others have suggested, some thick gardening or industrial gloves will protect you from grazes, bruises and blisters.
My last 2 new cars didn't come with a spare....This must be a dying art lol!
Do not put you foot behind a wheel as inevitably your foot will be a bit under the wheel, and if car drops you are in for a world of hurt.
Totally agree 👍
Good idea to keep some crutches in the boot and get some mug to do it for you.
It's not good advice to say tighten them as much as you can, and then a little more. That's definitely over-tightening them. With alloy wheels it can crack the metal and in extreme circumstances can cause the wheel to shatter under stress and in effect come off the car while it is moving
Isn't a problem if the correct torque (and/or wrench) is used but I do see your point 👍.
I've had too many punctures for my lifetime. In the boot: spare jacket, hi viz, gloves, spider wrench or extending handle breaker bar, spare 19mm socket, warning triangle, hand wipes.... and I won't buy a car that doesn't have some form of spare
I just carry a few £3:50 tins of Holts Tyre Weld that pumps up the tyre and gets the foam to seal the puncture..
Put the spare under the car in case the car drops off the jack.
My car has bolt covers that look like bolts themselves. There's a tool to hook them off.
This is all well and good if your car comes with a spare wheel and jack instead of some crappy puncture repair kit glue that doesn't work...
I can relate! Had to hit a kerb recently coming into a roundabout in my 2016 Astra, it was one of those with jutting out kerb. A boyracer flew over the roundabout (just off a hill), with his nose aiming at me, I swerved (only doing 5-7mph), hit the kerb, and put a big gash in the sidewall. I have TPMS, but wasn't sure if they were run flat tyres, so ended up paying £175 to RAC to come take me home. My new Astra has no spare wheel, only a puncture repair kit, which is useless for a gash!
Not watched the video yet as I know how to change a wheel. I take it that you are going as stir crazy as the rest of the country (as I was saying to hans this morning)
BTW Hans is our dishwasher, we call it hans because it was made in Germany and "Hands that do dishes..."
Definitely try not to let the locking wheel nut key slip out while you're loosening it too. Or you might punch the wheel arch like me. 🤣
I normally use my nees to prop the wheel up to the hub like hoy you resting it on your foot
Of course it helps if the spare isnt flat 😅😄😃😁😀
Should have finished with a song. It would have been perfect
Next week how to empty the ash tray....
They look like merv wheels
That's really bad squirl marks on the side of the car. You need to stop taking to a dodgy car wash
I wish my car didn't have bloody locking wheel nuts
Don’t put your foot behind the wheel!! If your hack fails your toes will be crushed
Ask your local tyre fitter to replace the bolts by hand, and not with an airgun, otherwise, you'll have a tough job getting them off at the side of the road. Avoid those franchise repair garages too, monkeys in boiler suits. They are worse than USELESS. And carry a torch as part of your emergency kit.
Every air gun I have used (in 1966) had a torque limiter. Every tyre depot I have used in the UK for the last fifty years tightened the wheel nuts with a torque wrench to the manufacturers specification.
@@TheAlanSaunders You've never been to Kwik Fit. lol
looks like hard work... lol
Hey Guys Chris Fix here...whoops, sorry wrong You Tube channel!
You should wear gloves 🧤 mate. Your car is quite dirty. It’s got finger prints all over its body. Your car may have coronavirus.
ure joking right
New cars dont come with a spare wheel or jack for some (money grabbing) reason. When I got mine a while back I stuck a trolley jack and a new spare I bought for it in the boot.
P.s. scissor Jacks are a bit shite imo but they do the job in an emergency
Try that with an MX5!!!
@@nastyevilninja that's what the passenger seat is for
@@yodaslovetoy Then where will I keep my hair straighteners???