Hi. Tim suggested I look at Mike Presling's channel where he makes a fixture for parting off from the rear. That might be even better. Good luck. Andrew
Hi Andrew, good to see you progressing well with this build. A suggestion for setting up the line boring for next time would be to initialy clamp either end of the blank between centres. You may need to make a couple of caps if you don't have centres large enough. With it located, you can zero a clock over the top of the blank, place a vee block underneath it and shim it in height until the clock still shows zero with the clamp tight. With a vee block, there's no chance of one of the packers moving, the job dropping and all hell breaking loose. You got there but I was holding my breath whilst you were machining the bore.
I really like the line bore tool that you made, it’s really ingenious. I may have to try my hand at making one, but I think I might have to watch your video making the tool. I know Hemingway sells a kit but I’m going to make mine using the materials that I have on hand.
I highly recommend it if you need to bore long cylinders. It gives a consistent diameter throughout its length. Definitely worth having a go at making one. Good luck 🤞
As ever I always enjoy watching your rapid improvement as a model engineer. We all learn from your mistakes., as well as our own ones. My number one comment this time is about the manner of your support using the tailstock. The concept is correct. But having the connection point between the centre & the work piece beyond the end of the work piece is where I would politely suggest that getting that connection tight to or better inside the end of that hole is a lot better from a bending point of view. The lesson here in the long term is to think in terms of a "top hat". The rim is the thrust interface & the location of the lathe tool centre needs to be on the inside of the "top hat". This way your forces are working with you, not against. Mervyn Price
Thank you Andrew,enjoyed the video very much. I do not think the video was to long at all. The engine is coming along very nicely. Looking forward for the next update. Cheers
Hi John - many thanks for the feedback. Yeah - it's slowly starting to look like an engine. I just hope it's not another 11 videos away from completion! Cheers Andrew
Gday Andrew, the cylinders turned out great and the engine is really taking shape now, the adjustment tool for the boring bar is a good design and makes setting the tool accurately a breeze, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
That was some great model engineering content Andrew, gotta love line boring on the lathe. Thanks for taking us along! With the cylinder heads attached that engine is really starting to take shape.
Coming along beautifully! I found when using a parting tool to never get too comfortable. Just when you get comfortable is when things go wrong. More than one time I’ve had cylinders just about completed only to have the parting tool grab and rip the piece out of the chuck and just tear everything up. When things are going along ‘Swimmingly’ is usually it bites you lol looking forward to the next video Andrew.~Paul
Hi Andrew, you might want to heat your test piston to above what you think the operating temperature is without the o-ring and check your fit for expansion Rich
Hi Rich - you got me thinking! My Hoglet v-twin has aluminium pistons. Also my hit-n-miss engines. However those will never get really hot - unlike possibly the Howell which should be capable of reasonably high revs. I've looked into thermal expansion, and aluminium expands 4 times more than cast iron. From my calculations the aluminium piston will expand by 0.005" at just 200 degrees C. On the other hand the cylinder will only expand by 0.001". This engine won't be used for long periods but I bet it could get hotter than 200 degrees C. So that would mean a gap of a minimum of 0.004". The drawback with cast iron pistons is the weight and the Howell instructions say you need to remove as much material as possible from the inside. So it looks like I will have to try to make the cast iron pistons with home made cast iron rings. That should be interesting! Cheers Andrew
Impressive work, great filming, editing and presentation. Great rigging for the line boring but it looks close to hazardous for an ignorant eye.. Time 21:00, testing the bore with the dummy piston shows the great bore. More then well done! Time 27:00. As I remember air cooled cylinders from the mopeds and motorcycles the air width was 3 - 4 times the the thickness of the cylinder cast iron. Strange design proportions. Too little of air circulation as I think. Increasing the RPM when getting deeper having a continus lathe speed control feels natural but not practised so often. Recently a 25 mm hard rolled steel was parted off practising increased RPM and it worked like a charm. Standar motor oil was used, not the toxic WD40. Looking at the presentation, 35 minutes looked like a lot but once watching the video, it was worth every minute.
@@learningturningmetal Inspecting the parting off tool now I got a surprise. The insert is 1.5 mm wide but is was pushed back into the holder and it looks like the tool holder did the cutting! It was a well centred insert of that gold coloured type. The last 2-3 mm I hacksawed.
That was a lot of work but I’m sure you are satisfied with the results, they came out very nice. Parting tools seem to be the nemesis for most hobby machinists, but I think Mark Pressing has came up with a good solution as long as you don’t have a threaded chuck, you might want to take a look. Take care, looking forward to the next one .
Lovely work again - I suspect that you weren't getting proper support from the live centre during the grooving operation because of the length of the overhang from your piece of aluminium. Unless the tailstock was clamped up pretty tight, the aluminium can hinge slightly where it sits on the end of the cylinder, negating any support. If the aluminium were cut shorter, so that the centre was close to the cylinder, then this effect would be much less, and the support would be more solid. Anyway, the job is done now! The engine will be quite a lump when it's completed.
That is a big stride forward. Heavy engineering compared to anything I have built. The cylinders look great on the crankcase, really taking shape. Good to see you getting value out of your boring bar. I dont envy you all that work with the parting tool. Maybe a rear toolpost parting tool would be a useful project for the future. I know Hemmingway do kits for them.
@@learningturningmetal before plunging in have a look at Mark Preslings channel. He recently made a back post tool holder and explains in detail the benefits of mounting your parting tool this way. He also shows how to make one from scratch in a short series. Well worth a look. He does some excellent projects. Channel is just called Mark Presling. He is in Australia.
@@timjoinson7232 Thanks for the info. His channel is really interesting and he makes parting off look a breeze! I must have a go at making one. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, I have found when using a parting tool, it really does matter how far away from the chuck you are and the speed you are cutting at as chatter can be amplified by resonance within the setup. Rigidity is your friend, I have a rear parting tool on a dedicated fixture on the cross side and that makes a tremendous difference as that setup is far more rigid. Keep up the good work, I am looking forward to seeing the final outcome.
Interesting work again. At the end where you show the cylinders fitted in the crankcase it looks as though the square base of one cylinder is not lining up accurately with the crankcase: is that so ? Regards, George.
Hi George - well spotted. The cylinders should slot onto studs and be bolted down. At the time I only had one stud and one cylinder was just plonked on top of the crankcase. Yesterday was my stud making day - all sorted now! All the best. Andrew
lookng good ! btw, the spindel bearings from those small chinese lathe,s making cutting off realy difficult. maybe a little more preload on the bearrings wil help ?
By using aluminium instead of the recommended cast iron for the pistons will throw the balance out ,cast iron being somewhat heavier than aluminium. check it out because it could shake its self to bits.
Hi Glenn - thanks for the advice - you got me thinking! From reading the instructions, the main factor for using cast iron pistons is due to thermal expansion. From my calculations aluminium pistons would expand by 0.005" at just 200 degrees C, as opposed to 0.001" for the cast iron. As the engine should be capable of pretty high revs (and high temperatures) I think my idea of using aluminium pistons has literally crashed and burned. Jerry Howell does comment on the weight of the cast iron pistons as being the real drawback, and the drawings show the removal of as much material as possible. So I think I will revert back to the plans, and possibly make my own cast iron rings too. Cheers Andrew
That engine is like a fine watch more than an engine. Beautiful work.🎉
Hey, thanks mate!
Ohh ! Cutting fins with a cut off tool is always difficult for me. Going to have to try inverting the tool. Those cylinders look really nice.
Hi. Tim suggested I look at Mike Presling's channel where he makes a fixture for parting off from the rear. That might be even better.
Good luck.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, good to see you progressing well with this build. A suggestion for setting up the line boring for next time would be to initialy clamp either end of the blank between centres. You may need to make a couple of caps if you don't have centres large enough. With it located, you can zero a clock over the top of the blank, place a vee block underneath it and shim it in height until the clock still shows zero with the clamp tight. With a vee block, there's no chance of one of the packers moving, the job dropping and all hell breaking loose. You got there but I was holding my breath whilst you were machining the bore.
Hi Andy - brilliant advice. I MUST try to remember that for next time.
Cheers
Andrew
I really like the line bore tool that you made, it’s really ingenious. I may have to try my hand at making one, but I think I might have to watch your video making the tool. I know Hemingway sells a kit but I’m going to make mine using the materials that I have on hand.
I highly recommend it if you need to bore long cylinders. It gives a consistent diameter throughout its length. Definitely worth having a go at making one. Good luck 🤞
As ever I always enjoy watching your rapid improvement as a model engineer. We all learn from your mistakes., as well as our own ones. My number one comment this time is about the manner of your support using the tailstock. The concept is correct. But having the connection point between the centre & the work piece beyond the end of the work piece is where I would politely suggest that getting that connection tight to or better inside the end of that hole is a lot better from a bending point of view. The lesson here in the long term is to think in terms of a "top hat". The rim is the thrust interface & the location of the lathe tool centre needs to be on the inside of the "top hat". This way your forces are working with you, not against. Mervyn Price
Hi Mervyn. That is great advice and well explained. I must try to remember that for future operations.
All the best.
Andrew
Thank you Andrew,enjoyed the video very much. I do not think the video was to long at all. The engine is coming along very nicely. Looking forward for the next update. Cheers
Hi John - many thanks for the feedback. Yeah - it's slowly starting to look like an engine. I just hope it's not another 11 videos away from completion!
Cheers
Andrew
Great work, really enjoyed the video 👍🏴
Thanks mate! 👍
Looking good!
Thanks mate!
Gday Andrew, the cylinders turned out great and the engine is really taking shape now, the adjustment tool for the boring bar is a good design and makes setting the tool accurately a breeze, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Thanks Matty!
That was some great model engineering content Andrew, gotta love line boring on the lathe. Thanks for taking us along! With the cylinder heads attached that engine is really starting to take shape.
Thanks Douglas - line boring is fun (when it works!).
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew The little engine is coming very nicely.
Thanks R!
Beautiful workmanship great job Thank you for sharing Andrew
Thanks Kimberzelik!
Coming along beautifully!
I found when using a parting tool to never get too comfortable. Just when you get comfortable is when things go wrong. More than one time I’ve had cylinders just about completed only to have the parting tool grab and rip the piece out of the chuck and just tear everything up. When things are going along ‘Swimmingly’ is usually it bites you lol looking forward to the next video Andrew.~Paul
Thanks Paul - yeah things can get a little traumatic! I'm glad I got those cylinders out of the way.
Cheers
Andrew
Very nice work
Thanks Rusty! 👍👍👍
Hi Andrew, you might want to heat your test piston to above what you think the operating temperature is without the o-ring and check your fit for expansion
Rich
Hi Rich - you got me thinking! My Hoglet v-twin has aluminium pistons. Also my hit-n-miss engines. However those will never get really hot - unlike possibly the Howell which should be capable of reasonably high revs. I've looked into thermal expansion, and aluminium expands 4 times more than cast iron. From my calculations the aluminium piston will expand by 0.005" at just 200 degrees C. On the other hand the cylinder will only expand by 0.001". This engine won't be used for long periods but I bet it could get hotter than 200 degrees C. So that would mean a gap of a minimum of 0.004". The drawback with cast iron pistons is the weight and the Howell instructions say you need to remove as much material as possible from the inside. So it looks like I will have to try to make the cast iron pistons with home made cast iron rings. That should be interesting!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal hi Andrew, it looks like you have already thought this out, looking forward to those videos!
Rich
Great video
Thanks Rick!
nice job 👍😎👍
Thanks Joel 👍
Impressive work, great filming, editing and presentation.
Great rigging for the line boring but it looks close to hazardous for an ignorant eye..
Time 21:00, testing the bore with the dummy piston shows the great bore. More then well done!
Time 27:00. As I remember air cooled cylinders from the mopeds and motorcycles the air width was 3 - 4 times the the thickness of the cylinder cast iron. Strange design proportions. Too little of air circulation as I think.
Increasing the RPM when getting deeper having a continus lathe speed control feels natural but not practised so often. Recently a 25 mm hard rolled steel was parted off practising increased RPM and it worked like a charm. Standar motor oil was used, not the toxic WD40.
Looking at the presentation, 35 minutes looked like a lot but once watching the video, it was worth every minute.
Thanks Stefan! You are very brave parting off hard rolles steel! 😧
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Inspecting the parting off tool now I got a surprise. The insert is 1.5 mm wide but is was pushed back into the holder and it looks like the tool holder did the cutting! It was a well centred insert of that gold coloured type. The last 2-3 mm I hacksawed.
@@Stefan_Boerjesson ha ha the joys of home engineering!
@@learningturningmetal Yes. Why buy inserts?..... Joking!
Awesome work Andrew. That is going to be a beast once finished. I s it going to be around 40cc in total.
Steve.
Thanks Steve. It should be around 32cc. I just hope I can get it to run!
Cheers
Andrew
Loved the vid Andrew, very nice job as usual!
Thanks mate!
That was a lot of work but I’m sure you are satisfied with the results, they came out very nice. Parting tools seem to be the nemesis for most hobby machinists, but I think Mark Pressing has came up with a good solution as long as you don’t have a threaded chuck, you might want to take a look. Take care, looking forward to the next one .
Thanks for the info. Tim also mentioned Mark Pressling. A very interesting TH-cam channel.
Cheers
Andrew
Lovely work again - I suspect that you weren't getting proper support from the live centre during the grooving operation because of the length of the overhang from your piece of aluminium. Unless the tailstock was clamped up pretty tight, the aluminium can hinge slightly where it sits on the end of the cylinder, negating any support. If the aluminium were cut shorter, so that the centre was close to the cylinder, then this effect would be much less, and the support would be more solid. Anyway, the job is done now! The engine will be quite a lump when it's completed.
Many thanks for the advice - I will try to remember that one!
Cheers
Andrew
That is a big stride forward. Heavy engineering compared to anything I have built. The cylinders look great on the crankcase, really taking shape. Good to see you getting value out of your boring bar. I dont envy you all that work with the parting tool. Maybe a rear toolpost parting tool would be a useful project for the future. I know Hemmingway do kits for them.
Thanks Tim - I'll check out the Hemmingway kit.
@@learningturningmetal before plunging in have a look at Mark Preslings channel. He recently made a back post tool holder and explains in detail the benefits of mounting your parting tool this way. He also shows how to make one from scratch in a short series. Well worth a look. He does some excellent projects. Channel is just called Mark Presling. He is in Australia.
@@timjoinson7232 Thanks for the info. His channel is really interesting and he makes parting off look a breeze! I must have a go at making one.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, I have found when using a parting tool, it really does matter how far away from the chuck you are and the speed you are cutting at as chatter can be amplified by resonance within the setup. Rigidity is your friend, I have a rear parting tool on a dedicated fixture on the cross side and that makes a tremendous difference as that setup is far more rigid. Keep up the good work, I am looking forward to seeing the final outcome.
Hi Terry - thanks for the suggestion. I really must explore your method further.
All the best.
Andrew
Great job as usual 👍
Thanks Derek! 👍
Machining cast iron can be a lot of fun. I did get a little lost, though, why the line boring setup and not just continue using the boring bar?
Hi - line boring is far more accurate and consistant than using a boring bar. I highly recommend!
Cheers
Andrew
Interesting work again. At the end where you show the cylinders fitted in the crankcase it looks as though the square base of one cylinder is not lining up accurately with the crankcase: is that so ? Regards, George.
Hi George - well spotted. The cylinders should slot onto studs and be bolted down. At the time I only had one stud and one cylinder was just plonked on top of the crankcase. Yesterday was my stud making day - all sorted now!
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Glad that it was only that. Onwards and upwards.
lookng good !
btw, the spindel bearings from those small chinese lathe,s making cutting off realy difficult.
maybe a little more preload on the bearrings wil help ?
Thanks Ben - in this instance I think the problem was at the tailstock end.
Cheers
Andrew
By using aluminium instead of the recommended cast iron for the pistons will throw the balance out ,cast iron being somewhat heavier than aluminium. check it out because it could shake its self to bits.
Hi Glenn - thanks for the advice - you got me thinking! From reading the instructions, the main factor for using cast iron pistons is due to thermal expansion. From my calculations aluminium pistons would expand by 0.005" at just 200 degrees C, as opposed to 0.001" for the cast iron. As the engine should be capable of pretty high revs (and high temperatures) I think my idea of using aluminium pistons has literally crashed and burned. Jerry Howell does comment on the weight of the cast iron pistons as being the real drawback, and the drawings show the removal of as much material as possible. So I think I will revert back to the plans, and possibly make my own cast iron rings too.
Cheers
Andrew
👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers O 👍👍👍👍👍