Great video,Does anyone know if a 1000 belts fit an 1100? Also my 81 right cam has 2sets of timing marks on it but it has an arrow too,since left cam has arrow and notch in same spot I assume i should use arrow on right side,any comment's would be appreciated,thanks for posting.
Just got my 2000 Valkyrie GL1500 last Sat. April 28th 2018. It has 52,800 miles on it. I noticed that you are putting new tension springs on. Is this necessary any time you change the belts? And thank you so much excellent tutorial!! Now I can get the belts and do this with confidence! Also I went to the Gates site and they list the belt as a Gates T275. Is this correct? And is it the same on the GL1500? This tutorial came up on a search for GL1500. Thanks again.
Good afternoon! I just changed the timing belts on my 1977 Honda GL1000 thanks to your video, very helpful! I do have a question related to being off a tooth. When I first removed the covers, I noticed that the timing marks on the wheel for the cylinders 1 & 3 was right on, but the wheel for cylinders 2 & 4 was off a tooth (timing mark on wheel was just slightly above (+/- 3/16") the timing mark on the case). I tried to adjust the position as I installed the new belt, but it kept reverted back to the initial setting. The bike runs fine now with the new timing belts, so I'm wondering if I need to open it up again and somehow adjust the 2 & 4 wheel. What do you suggest? Thanks!
I have heard tale of them running fine being off a tooth. It seems like perhaps its the valve pressure that's throwing it off. You have to make sure you eliminate that "wonder" which I point out in one of the 3 videos in this series. If you think you have everything set up correct, and it runs seemingly perfect; then I think your good bud.
@@btrapp37 Great, thanks! I'm thinking that if the timing mark on the left wheel or gear is just slightly above the timing mark on the case it would just mean that cylinders 2 & 4 would just fire slightly late, somewhere after the F mark and before TDC, everything else being correct.
Thanks, but something as important as this am going to have a mechanic do it, my luck I would trash my bike, I'll gladly pay 200 or 300 hundred bucks for the peace of mind. Lol.
David k There’s nothing wrong with having someone do it for you as well. It’s easy enough, and you do not need to remove the motor from the frame. The only issue you may have is finding someone to work on it. Don’t wait until spring! You’ll likely never get it into a dealer if you wait. Good luck!
Well done. I used this information to change my own timing belts today. It runs.
Awesome!
I watched lot of tutorials but this is most logical and helpful thank you!
Thank you. I tried to make them cohesive and logical so I am glad that shined through.
Thank you! And thank you for not putting any music with it. :)
This is amazing. Answers so many questions for me. Thanks so much
Great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Great videos. Thanks for sharing
Great Vid. Helped me a lot!!! Thx
Your welcome Andy! Glad it helped you out and I had a lot of fun making the videos and learning about these old bikes.
very clear thank you
thanks for showing it,
Good job
Daughter's account -- Sorry! I can't figure out to get my own account BUT! Thanks for this video. Great info for me.
Thanks for watching!
Hello, great video. What if the pulley are not aligned. The Right pulley UP is down and the Left pulley UP is correct. Any suggestions ?
Great video,Does anyone know if a 1000 belts fit an 1100? Also my 81 right cam has 2sets of timing marks on it but it has an arrow too,since left cam has arrow and notch in same spot I assume i should use arrow on right side,any comment's would be appreciated,thanks for posting.
i will do the timing belts soon, does one bad tooth make the mess? thanks
Just got my 2000 Valkyrie GL1500 last Sat. April 28th 2018. It has 52,800 miles on it. I noticed that you are putting new tension springs on. Is this necessary any time you change the belts? And thank you so much excellent tutorial!! Now I can get the belts and do this with confidence! Also I went to the Gates site and they list the belt as a Gates T275. Is this correct? And is it the same on the GL1500? This tutorial came up on a search for GL1500. Thanks again.
Marty Mac should be the same deal. You do not need new springs every time.
Good stuff thanks. A little more light on what you're doing would be appreciated thanks!
Good afternoon! I just changed the timing belts on my 1977 Honda GL1000 thanks to your video, very helpful! I do have a question related to being off a tooth. When I first removed the covers, I noticed that the timing marks on the wheel for the cylinders 1 & 3 was right on, but the wheel for cylinders 2 & 4 was off a tooth (timing mark on wheel was just slightly above (+/- 3/16") the timing mark on the case). I tried to adjust the position as I installed the new belt, but it kept reverted back to the initial setting. The bike runs fine now with the new timing belts, so I'm wondering if I need to open it up again and somehow adjust the 2 & 4 wheel. What do you suggest? Thanks!
I have heard tale of them running fine being off a tooth. It seems like perhaps its the valve pressure that's throwing it off. You have to make sure you eliminate that "wonder" which I point out in one of the 3 videos in this series. If you think you have everything set up correct, and it runs seemingly perfect; then I think your good bud.
@@btrapp37 Great, thanks! I'm thinking that if the timing mark on the left wheel or gear is just slightly above the timing mark on the case it would just mean that cylinders 2 & 4 would just fire slightly late, somewhere after the F mark and before TDC, everything else being correct.
I wish napa had the oil seals ,,I don't know I haven't checked though.
is this the same for the gl1200
Yes Joshua Marshall, same for the 1200
You have a service manual?
If you join the forum ClassicGoldWings.com they have all the service manuals available in PDF for free! Plus a wealth of information.
Thanks, but something as important as this am going to have a mechanic do it, my luck I would trash my bike, I'll gladly pay 200 or 300 hundred bucks for the peace of mind. Lol.
David k There’s nothing wrong with having someone do it for you as well. It’s easy enough, and you do not need to remove the motor from the frame. The only issue you may have is finding someone to work on it. Don’t wait until spring! You’ll likely never get it into a dealer if you wait.
Good luck!