Trick I learned years ago for cutting vinal siding with a circular saw. To prevent chipping flip the blade over to the "wrong side" . Worked like a charm.
I was just looking for reviews of arrow saws for something that works but doesn’t break the bank. I didn’t know they are in the $180 range. You just saved me a bunch of money. Your presentation made making and using it look easy too. I’m off to HF tomorrow:)
Apologies for the late reply. I too was in the same boat, not spending that much to cut down arrows. I use mine a good and it hasn't failed me yet. Best of luck with yours my friend. Have a great day. Best regards
Hey Scott, great idea! Your solution is much more comfortable than mine .... i'm using a pipe cutter :-D but it works nicely too. However, I need to smooth the cut edges. Have a nice evening and an even better week my friend.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I've used a pipe cutter many times as well. With the aluminum arrows I always had open the ends up to be able to add the inserts. I hope you have a great week as well my friend!
I have been using my 1" belt sander with the disc on the side of it, (from Harbor Freight as well). The disc sands down the carbon arrows nicely. Woks great for bare shaft tuning. I have been looking at arrow saws too. I like your idea.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I might need to look into the belt sander you mentioned. I do some leather work on the side and that might help with those projects. Have a great day my friend!
Like your DYI arrow saw would of never thought of that and now I may just go do that so I can cut arrows to the length I need as well as the tuning process thanks
To get a nearly perfect straight cut, I coated the vise with Teflon. I fashioned a stop for the saw so it can be lowered to a predetermined point. Close the vise on the shaft untill the arrow can just move, then, with the nock captive, rotate the shaft. It's a square cut each time. Like you, the lengthy is guaranteed by a fixed measuring tape.
Thank you for the insight my friend. I’ll take your advice on this. getting ready to up my arrow collection and tuning will be a part of that. I appreciate your time. Have a great day! Best regards
Brilliant. I have the larger size and it cuts okay, but requires lots of squaring which is really time consuming. I can see where the smaller blade would make a better cut. I didn't know they sold a smaller saw. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely my friend. I like the compact design. Makes for easier setup and takedown with a small footprint. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Have a great day!
Wow, that does work nice for a $40 saw. Putting that stop on it was very smart 🤓! I'm not at the point of tuning my arrows like that yet, but hopefully soon. I sometimes change my anchor point ... So not yet ready for this yet, but I may got to Harbor freight and pick it up anyway in anticipation for the day I may need to do that. God bless, and thanks for this great video!
I would suggest mounting a block to stop the blade, only cutting 1/4 of the way through the shaft and then rolling the shaft to complete the cut. This will give a cleaner outside edge on the shaft. more like what the pro shaft cutters do. probably more important on carbon then alloy or wood.
I thought about trying it that way. I think I would have fabricate a tray to hold the arrow straight to be able to roll it. That is a great point. Maybe I will revisit the design at some point. I appreciate the view and taking the time to comment! Have a great day my friend.
Lol, those pesky safety parts. I've been meaning to try the abrasive disk, but never get around to purchasing them. Notice any difference in how it cuts with them? Appreciate your comment my friend. Have a great day
@@ScottWinters saw tooth vs disk. I can't tellthe difference. I just went abrasive because all the commercial saw products use abrasive and I'm cheap, but not trying to re-invent the wheel. One thing 7 learned about doing my own arrows, well actually 2 things. One is , it is fun. Second tight accuracy tolerances are not needed. A arrow cut to my 28" is just as accurate as 28.25", same for feathers; 2,3,4, length, parabolic, etc etc. makes no difference except to make it your personal style. Blessed be the day to shoot!
Seems effective, but how are you able to ensure a square cut? It seems to me that the squarness of your cut will depend entirely on your ability to 'eyeball' it and make sure the arrow is level and perpendicular to the blade.
Valid question my friend. There are groves inside the clamp jaws. These keep the arrow level and perpendicular to the blade. The other end of the mounting board has the rest for the arrow shaft. I took small amounts of material out until it allowed the arrow to sit near level. In the time I’ve been using it I have had one or two bad cuts. Even then it was off just a fraction and cleaned up easily. Thank you for your time and your question. Have a great evening.
Damn you spent $40 (I'm guessing that's not Australian dollars) I spent $239.95 AUD for a Decut arrow saw (watched videos from Jake Kaminski and thought I should go with a more legit option) but your idea is brilliant
Thank you my friend. I really appreciate the comment! I really like it. Actually used it to tune a few arrows and it worked like a charm. Thanks again my friend. Have a great evening. Best regards!
Wow this setup couldn't be more wrong. first and foremost, you never set up a stop like this. As you cut the piece, the scrap generated can twist and bind between your stop and your vice creating a dangerous pinch. Second, this is completely wrong if you are trying to hold an overall length across multiple arrows. You have to set up your datum face and repeat the same datum face for every arrow. This means your stop should be at the other end and it should be set up to the length in which you're looking for. Positive the saw is great. I own one as well and I have nothing but good things to say about it, Cutting carbon arrows.
Thanks for the comment my friend and info my friend. The setup is not to get the same arrow length, but more for consistently removing the same amount of material with each cut. More for the tuning process than anything else. I could see your point on creating a pinch. I haven’t experienced this yet in the time I have been using the saw. Basically you are stating making a movable stop on the opposite end that could be moved in increments, correct? Thanks again for the insight and looking at it differently. Have a great day. Regards
@@ScottWinters absolutely correct. A movable stop would be ideal. I currently just clamp the mini chop saw using the provided c-clamp to a table and I use a second c clamp and hold down a block of wood at the other end (the datum) I'm a big believer in best practices. You never know when an accident can happen so your best option is to mitigate the accident that could happen. I would hate for somebody to take your method, create a pinch point and that little saw blows up in their face. Sending the blade at worst in the scrap piece of arrow at best flying into your face. I do agree that this is a great little saw for cutting your own arrows
Don´t inhale any carbon dust! lung cancer awaits. Wear at least a filtering mask and work outside to keep the micro dust out of your workspace. Better rethink your setup and add a vacuum sucker wth hepa filter e.g.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm in Canada and could only find crappy chinese knockoff saws on Amazon. So I ordered cross-border from Harbour Freight. I'm excited!
Awesome my friend. I think you will enjoy it. Inappreciate your time. Have a great day. Best regards
Trick I learned years ago for cutting vinal siding with a circular saw. To prevent chipping flip the blade over to the "wrong side" . Worked like a charm.
James, thanks for the comment and the tip. I appreciate your time my friend. Have a great day
Great little cutter Scott! Have mine for a few years. Nice touch with the stop you added too. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you my friend for the comment. Adding the stop definitely makes it quicker to work with. Have a great day. Best regards
I was just looking for reviews of arrow saws for something that works but doesn’t break the bank. I didn’t know they are in the $180 range. You just saved me a bunch of money. Your presentation made making and using it look easy too. I’m off to HF tomorrow:)
Apologies for the late reply. I too was in the same boat, not spending that much to cut down arrows.
I use mine a good and it hasn't failed me yet. Best of luck with yours my friend. Have a great day. Best regards
Some of them are like $500! Last chance makes an expensive one. It’s awesome, but at the end of the day, we’re just cutting arrows here lol,
This saw works quite well, just don’t try to rush it and you’ll be pretty happy with it.
Thanks for commenting. I appreciate your time my friend. Best regards
There have been videos using this saw going back 7-8 years with I think YankeeCowboy being the first.
Hey Scott, great idea! Your solution is much more comfortable than mine .... i'm using a pipe cutter :-D but it works nicely too. However, I need to smooth the cut edges.
Have a nice evening and an even better week my friend.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I've used a pipe cutter many times as well. With the aluminum arrows I always had open the ends up to be able to add the inserts.
I hope you have a great week as well my friend!
I have been using my 1" belt sander with the disc on the side of it, (from Harbor Freight as well). The disc sands down the carbon arrows nicely. Woks great for bare shaft tuning. I have been looking at arrow saws too. I like your idea.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I might need to look into the belt sander you mentioned. I do some leather work on the side and that might help with those projects. Have a great day my friend!
Great idea seems to work well. 👍🏼. God bless sir.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. It works well for my needs. Have a great evening
Like your DYI arrow saw would of never thought of that and now I may just go do that so I can cut arrows to the length I need as well as the tuning process thanks
Awesome brother. Glad it helped. Let me know how it goes if you do build one. Have a great day my friend!
@@ScottWinters I differently do that thanks for all your videos and please keep them coming
To get a nearly perfect straight cut, I coated the vise with Teflon. I fashioned a stop for the saw so it can be lowered to a predetermined point. Close the vise on the shaft untill the arrow can just move, then, with the nock captive, rotate the shaft. It's a square cut each time. Like you, the lengthy is guaranteed by a fixed measuring tape.
Thank you for the insight my friend. I’ll take your advice on this. getting ready to up my arrow collection and tuning will be a part of that. I appreciate your time. Have a great day! Best regards
Brilliant. I have the larger size and it cuts okay, but requires lots of squaring which is really time consuming. I can see where the smaller blade would make a better cut. I didn't know they sold a smaller saw. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely my friend. I like the compact design. Makes for easier setup and takedown with a small footprint. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Have a great day!
Wow, that does work nice for a $40 saw. Putting that stop on it was very smart 🤓! I'm not at the point of tuning my arrows like that yet, but hopefully soon. I sometimes change my anchor point ... So not yet ready for this yet, but I may got to Harbor freight and pick it up anyway in anticipation for the day I may need to do that. God bless, and thanks for this great video!
I would suggest mounting a block to stop the blade, only cutting 1/4 of the way through the shaft and then rolling the shaft to complete the cut. This will give a cleaner outside edge on the shaft. more like what the pro shaft cutters do. probably more important on carbon then alloy or wood.
I thought about trying it that way. I think I would have fabricate a tray to hold the arrow straight to be able to roll it. That is a great point. Maybe I will revisit the design at some point. I appreciate the view and taking the time to comment! Have a great day my friend.
The other cut off wheels are way better then the metal ones that come with it for carbon. I did it to mine and works perfectly.
Awesome. Thanks for the input. I keep meaning to pick some up. I appreciate your time! Best regards
cool, useful project !
Safety release? Gee I have it and amazing how the Safety release 'accidently' broke off. 😉.
I use abrasive disk, still have to sand a tad.
Lol, those pesky safety parts. I've been meaning to try the abrasive disk, but never get around to purchasing them. Notice any difference in how it cuts with them? Appreciate your comment my friend. Have a great day
@@ScottWinters saw tooth vs disk. I can't tellthe difference. I just went abrasive because all the commercial saw products use abrasive and I'm cheap, but not trying to re-invent the wheel. One thing 7 learned about doing my own arrows, well actually 2 things. One is , it is fun. Second tight accuracy tolerances are not needed. A arrow cut to my 28" is just as accurate as 28.25", same for feathers; 2,3,4, length, parabolic, etc etc. makes no difference except to make it your personal style. Blessed be the day to shoot!
Fine tooth wood saws cut alumininininum perfectly
It may not have enough rpm to do it effectively with this saw. It does cut it but you have to be slow with it.
@@ScottWinters you've got the rippems, not enough torquems.
No matter how square you think those shafts are , they need to be squared on both ends with an arrow square
I appreciate the comment and the advice. Thank you for your time. Have a great evening. Best regards
Seems effective, but how are you able to ensure a square cut? It seems to me that the squarness of your cut will depend entirely on your ability to 'eyeball' it and make sure the arrow is level and perpendicular to the blade.
Valid question my friend. There are groves inside the clamp jaws. These keep the arrow level and perpendicular to the blade. The other end of the mounting board has the rest for the arrow shaft. I took small amounts of material out until it allowed the arrow to sit near level. In the time I’ve been using it I have had one or two bad cuts. Even then it was off just a fraction and cleaned up easily. Thank you for your time and your question. Have a great evening.
Damn you spent $40 (I'm guessing that's not Australian dollars) I spent $239.95 AUD for a Decut arrow saw (watched videos from Jake Kaminski and thought I should go with a more legit option) but your idea is brilliant
Thank you my friend. I really appreciate the comment! I really like it. Actually used it to tune a few arrows and it worked like a charm. Thanks again my friend. Have a great evening. Best regards!
@@ScottWinters your welcome mate, I'm currently still watching your videos at the moment 😅 you are very informative, keep up the great work 👍
Tom Langbein
Scott what are the rpm’s on your cut off saw?
The specs show the max rpm at 10,600.
Wow this setup couldn't be more wrong. first and foremost, you never set up a stop like this. As you cut the piece, the scrap generated can twist and bind between your stop and your vice creating a dangerous pinch.
Second, this is completely wrong if you are trying to hold an overall length across multiple arrows. You have to set up your datum face and repeat the same datum face for every arrow. This means your stop should be at the other end and it should be set up to the length in which you're looking for.
Positive the saw is great. I own one as well and I have nothing but good things to say about it, Cutting carbon arrows.
Thanks for the comment my friend and info my friend. The setup is not to get the same arrow length, but more for consistently removing the same amount of material with each cut. More for the tuning process than anything else.
I could see your point on creating a pinch. I haven’t experienced this yet in the time I have been using the saw.
Basically you are stating making a movable stop on the opposite end that could be moved in increments, correct?
Thanks again for the insight and looking at it differently.
Have a great day. Regards
@@ScottWinters absolutely correct. A movable stop would be ideal. I currently just clamp the mini chop saw using the provided c-clamp to a table and I use a second c clamp and hold down a block of wood at the other end (the datum)
I'm a big believer in best practices. You never know when an accident can happen so your best option is to mitigate the accident that could happen. I would hate for somebody to take your method, create a pinch point and that little saw blows up in their face. Sending the blade at worst in the scrap piece of arrow at best flying into your face.
I do agree that this is a great little saw for cutting your own arrows
Thank you for the insight. I will definitely revisit the build and document it. I really appreciate your time. Have a great evening. Best regards.
😢
Don´t inhale any carbon dust! lung cancer awaits. Wear at least a filtering mask and work outside to keep the micro dust out of your workspace. Better rethink your setup and add a vacuum sucker wth hepa filter e.g.
Thanks for the comment and insight. I will definitely keep that in mind. I appreciate your time. Have a great evening. Best regards
It took you 4mins. to getting down to business & then thumping around. Nope, not for me!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Have a good day