Wray - Those steel formers worked to perfection! Much better than wood for that application. Great job so far - I'll be eager to see the next segments.
There are so many good tidbits in this series even for experienced fabricators. I think it's popular especially because you are posting regularly and its easier to engage with longform like this when the info keeps coming and building upon itself.
It's great watching the shroud come back into shape! Thanks for showing how to do this with simple tools...I know it takes longer, but it proves that having all the P's is more important than having fancy equipment.
Greetings i found this channel by a chance...not a metal fabricator as such but i love watching repairs being done from a write off to better than new...it's the basics and attention to detail that intrigues me...lovely work guess im here to stay...im also Make It Kustom follower too 👍👍👍
Perfect persistence presented prior to performed period-proper precision. Wray. We need to pray for your patience with this part! Great job for all the Team!
This is such a master class in metal forming. I started watching because I knew I’d learn a LOT. I also want to give a big shout out to Mark for his excellent camera work and editing! You can’t have a static camera to see all the details. Great team work.
Wray, Great videos. I've always wondered how you coachbuilders worked your magic. I believe that shroud is from a '63, judging from the location of the defroster vents and the turn signal lights. I had a 63 3000 that got hit in '71, requiring a new front shroud. New OEM part was about $400.
Old files welded together and bent and then shaped and polished, make an excellent slapper. Wray! After watching all of your videos and applying the knowledge to various projects, I feel that I have taken your class. No?
You have given me the confidence to repair the rear valence on my Mustang. I thought it was too mangled, but nothing like the Healey fender you’re doing. I’m beginning to think you could restore a crushed beer can. Thanks.
Hi Wray, Great work. To re-shape the headlamp surrounds on my shroud. (only pushed back slightly, not mashed). I cut out a circle from 19mm resin bonded ply which fitted behind. Then cut out an oversised half section from the same material Worked around the radia with g clamps between the two pieces of ply which pressed it back perfectly. Keep up the good work. Regards, U.K.
Wray, you are an innovator, fabricator, millwright, machinist, welder, blacksmith, (I've run out of hats!). Again, incredible work. I always learn something from your videos. Hope to make it to a class in the near future. Can't thank you enough.
Nailed the "P"s and forgot metal is clay lol ! You could do a video on a circle cutting guide and cut one out with a torch for those who lack a plasma cutter Wray. If a headlamp bucket came with the E-type bonnet they are pretty much all the same also, Midget/Sprite, MGB, TR-3 and 4, E-type. all would give you a pattern for that headlamp opening. If you need a pattern for the front fender I should have a spare or two I could trace, scan and email to you as well, just let me know in the comments, I'd gladly send it. Happy New Year to you both!
Given that the defimation (crash) was from the front. The bar/plate should have been located at the rear hole first and worked from the rear heading towards to the front as the bolt hole locations at the rear would have been less likely to be deformed. The problem I could see was you were trying to move the metal from the front to the rear and that would be correct. However while tring to get the holes the line up the metal movement was to wards the clamp that was just after the holeand was trapping the free movement. If the clamp that was close to hole was moved further down stream and a clamp placed back behind (up stream) the holes would move to the desired locationd . Going back to the front and working to the rear placing clamps behind as you work the panel, Iwould have thought the over lap and hole placement would work out.
@@Pedroisanickname Ok it is from side frontal. If you look at the early video the corner of the grill opening it is pushed back on it self while the very back of the panel is untouched with the back corner of the hood opening showing signs of twist.
I was puzzled at first about how the steel former was made. Was it by shaping and marking the holes to match on the other (good) side? Could that stubborn overlap by the headlamp be the result of the metal being stretched before tearing in the crash? If it's thinner there, then it might shrink bank to butt.
Great progress Wray, fantastic series. That overlap on the flange had me wondering - as it lines up with the weld line, perhaps they got slack at factory and just rolled the open seam over knowing it would be hidden by the fender? No doubt you could see better in person if it were a fatigue crack but even in my *very* short experience i’ve seen some pretty hideous 60s factory stuff that’s hidden away😂 Looking forward to the next vids!
Wray Really enjoy this series as I’m fixing the same piece. I have a question about how to make a flexible form if both sides of the shroud are damaged?
As you said, perhaps the holes are not exactly in the same spot on both sides. I was wondering if it might be better not to drill holes into the heavy backer bar before it is in place. Maybe use a black or white marker to put a dot where the hole is. Then shape the headlight sheet metal to the correct radius, then drill the holes in the backer steel where they line up with the holes in the sheet metal. Another enjoyable video. I have found that I like this project more than making a whole new part, as in the Jaguar series. I seem to be able to see where this is going maybe. I wonder, could Mark somehow make a video of all the video entries? Pete
If this were steel, would you go about doing this technique? Would you have been able to pull out that fold, or would you have to fabricate all new pieces to be welded in?
Hi Ray I just got back and have seen this excellent videos and have to ask a question regarding the torch settings Are you using a oxidizing flame "white colored flame" or is it the video content? Also I want to say you keep it simple . Dan R.
I don’t do any bodywork but I’m fascinated by your work, especially the Healey. I love the precision and patience. Ps. Could someone please send Wray a 7” Lucas headlamp bucket that was standard fitting in most cars of that age!! I’m in the UK and the postage is prohibitive.
Wray , What's your take (value) on the Green Everlast tig machines. You have the big blue and I have an old blue transformer with a separate touch hi freq system(no foot pedal). I appreciate your opinion, love the videos, opinions and even purchased a shrinking disc years ago. (063 aluminum).I respect the opinion of a guy that welds every day of the week! Thanks Joe
The Everlast 210 EXT tig welders are real fine machines. I just bought a Harbor Freight Vulcan too. I am impressed with it except for the rubber tig torch. I'm looking for a replacement torch that is more flexible.
I will burn in hell for it. I bought it years ago for something like $25.00 from a local scrapyard. I made the special jaws which bolt in so it really hasn't seen any abuse, it just looks that way.
You'll have to come by and make a video with me and show me how it's done. Apparently my 58 years of experience working on collector cars is failing me.
The day is not long enough. For me it runs from 9:00AM to 11:30PM lately- everyday including weekends, and I still get pissed I didn't get enough done.
Shroud of Turin restoration? Thank you for posting. This video shows hands on how to straighten and smooth metal with basic tools. I dont believe the shroud will be saved in the end but it is not important since good reproductions are available . I view this attempt more like an attention grabber and a very interesting array of hammering techniques and simple templates. I dont understand why you beat on that flat bar for 20 minutes while you could easily draw a template and duplicate on a 3/8 plate and cut with either a torch if so inclined, or a plasma cutter. Plus if you wanted to duplicate a forge you should use a rosebud instead. that is teaching bad habits to newcomers.
@@proshaper Hello Wray you are the one asking us to subscribe and comment, this should include criticism providing it is courteous and constructive. This shroud will NEVER go on a car and that is ok with me, it does not invalidate your approach to metal forming. I learned quit a bit looking at you channel, mainly because I am working on my 3000 alum panels. If you dont like criticism dont ask people to comment.
You don't believe the shroud will be saved? Something tells me your comment won't age well! Did you see what he started with? I'd say the shroud has already been saved and it's well on its way to being a part that someone can use on their car.
"Lazarus, Come Forth!" This is one resurrection I hadn't expected Wray.
Wray - Those steel formers worked to perfection! Much better than wood for that application. Great job so far - I'll be eager to see the next segments.
Thanks Ron!
Way to go Wray 👍😁 nice job !
Two of my favorite metal guys on the same page!
Any free anvil is a good anvil. I had an uncle who used to collect and trade anvils in the early 70’s. I wish I had one of those from back then.
There are so many good tidbits in this series even for experienced fabricators. I think it's popular especially because you are posting regularly and its easier to engage with longform like this when the info keeps coming and building upon itself.
It's great watching the shroud come back into shape! Thanks for showing how to do this with simple tools...I know it takes longer, but it proves that having all the P's is more important than having fancy equipment.
Wray as a former student 2006 please don't skip the small boring details it really makes a difference in the final product thanks Danny.
I'm not a Healey owner and never wanted one, but I love following through the thought process on this repair.
That’s an interesting flat slapper hammer you have there Sir. You must also have a crap load of patience too. Nice work!!
We’re getting closer Wray we’re loving on our end Marks camera work really makes the videos thanks so much for your time
Fast forwarding your videos would be tantamount to sacrilege.
Happy new year.
Greetings i found this channel by a chance...not a metal fabricator as such but i love watching repairs being done from a write off to better than new...it's the basics and attention to detail that intrigues me...lovely work guess im here to stay...im also Make It Kustom follower too 👍👍👍
Perfect persistence presented prior to performed period-proper precision. Wray. We need to pray for your patience with this part! Great job for all the Team!
Ray.
Nice to see your viewership is way up!
This is such a master class in metal forming. I started watching because I knew I’d learn a LOT. I also want to give a big shout out to Mark for his excellent camera work and editing! You can’t have a static camera to see all the details. Great team work.
Wray, Great videos. I've always wondered how you coachbuilders worked your magic. I believe that shroud is from a '63, judging from the location of the defroster vents and the turn signal lights. I had a 63 3000 that got hit in '71, requiring a new front shroud. New OEM part was about $400.
please dont ever stop showing all the details
Old files welded together and bent and then shaped and polished, make an excellent slapper. Wray! After watching all of your videos and applying the knowledge to various projects, I feel that I have taken your class. No?
Shout out to Marc, you do an excellent job on the camera. You make it look like we are right in the mix of the work.
Keeping it simple for all of us Wray, panel is looking PROfoundly better. Great video. 😉
You have given me the confidence to repair the rear valence on my Mustang. I thought it was too mangled, but nothing like the Healey fender you’re doing. I’m beginning to think you could restore a crushed beer can. Thanks.
It's amazing to see what the state of these piece at the beginning and what you done with it.... Great job and thanks for all the tips
Great video 👍 planishing with a hammer and dolly will be a good learning curve for many TH-cam's thanks Mark for the dedication.
It's amazing to see the metal move in real time! I think that really helps to give viewers the confidence to try for themselves. Great job!
Good to see simple tools used for complex repairs. Great video!
The tools are simple, it's YEARS of accumulated knowledge that is complicated.
Thanks Wray. Really enjoying watching the progress.
Hi Wray, Great work. To re-shape the headlamp surrounds on my shroud. (only pushed back slightly, not mashed). I cut out a circle from 19mm resin bonded ply which fitted behind. Then cut out an oversised half section from the same material Worked around the radia with g clamps between the two pieces of ply which pressed it back perfectly. Keep up the good work. Regards, U.K.
Brilliant work and its good how you show that you don't need expensive tools to get the job done, Thanks Wray
Thanks, Wray. You open the door and show the way to guys like me, who haven't worked with metal. I get the 5Ps . . . but you're a master.
Wray, you are an innovator, fabricator, millwright, machinist, welder, blacksmith, (I've run out of hats!). Again, incredible work. I always learn something from your videos. Hope to make it to a class in the near future. Can't thank you enough.
Excellent video Wray....nothing I'v seen is boring...keep them comming
Thanks! I spent my time with benefit and pleasure.
Love your content Wray. Very entertaining watching you straighten out such a crumpled piece of bodywork.
Very satisfying to see everything come back to shape. Like a slow motion game of Tetris... I enjoy every minut. Thanks Wray.
This has been a blast to watch!
Love the work on the Healey, just awesome watching you do your magic!
Nailed the "P"s and forgot metal is clay lol ! You could do a video on a circle cutting guide and cut one out with a torch for those who lack a plasma cutter Wray. If a headlamp bucket came with the E-type bonnet they are pretty much all the same also, Midget/Sprite, MGB, TR-3 and 4, E-type. all would give you a pattern for that headlamp opening. If you need a pattern for the front fender I should have a spare or two I could trace, scan and email to you as well, just let me know in the comments, I'd gladly send it. Happy New Year to you both!
Glad the channel is growing. It's one of the best on You Tube.
Thanks Angus!
Great job as always and Mark does a great job. Thanks
Excellent video very helpful thanks Wray.
Awesome content, thanks for sharing, these vids are so informative, learning so much about metal work on cars in general 😊👍
Thanks Mark for ducking the audio during the hammer blows.
Given that the defimation (crash) was from the front. The bar/plate should have been located at the rear hole first and worked from the rear heading towards to the front as the bolt hole locations at the rear would have been less likely to be deformed.
The problem I could see was you were trying to move the metal from the front to the rear and that would be correct. However while tring to get the holes the line up the metal movement was to wards the clamp that was just after the holeand was trapping the free movement. If the clamp that was close to hole was moved further down stream and a clamp placed back behind (up stream) the holes would move to the desired locationd . Going back to the front and working to the rear placing clamps behind as you work the panel, Iwould have thought the over lap and hole placement would work out.
I tried it both ways( I tried it off camera earlier), I do believe it was off from day one. It will be as good as new when I finish.
If my memory serves the impact came in from the side not the front.
@@Pedroisanickname Ok it is from side frontal. If you look at the early video the corner of the grill opening it is pushed back on it self while the very back of the panel is untouched with the back corner of the hood opening showing signs of twist.
Awesome as always
I was puzzled at first about how the steel former was made. Was it by shaping and marking the holes to match on the other (good) side?
Could that stubborn overlap by the headlamp be the result of the metal being stretched before tearing in the crash? If it's thinner there, then it might shrink bank to butt.
Great progress Wray, fantastic series. That overlap on the flange had me wondering - as it lines up with the weld line, perhaps they got slack at factory and just rolled the open seam over knowing it would be hidden by the fender? No doubt you could see better in person if it were a fatigue crack but even in my *very* short experience i’ve seen some pretty hideous 60s factory stuff that’s hidden away😂 Looking forward to the next vids!
Happy New Year Wray.....
Wray Really enjoy this series as I’m fixing the same piece. I have a question about how to make a flexible form if both sides of the shroud are damaged?
You will need a friend with your same car to help out.
Who's to say the Healy fender mounting holes are symmetric side to side?? Doesn't someone have a hood they could loan you ??
Wray, a word for resourceful starting with P --- Prudently????
May be?????
The front is straightening perfectly!!!!
As you said, perhaps the holes are not exactly in the same spot on both sides. I was wondering if it might be better not to drill holes into the heavy backer bar before it is in place. Maybe use a black or white marker to put a dot where the hole is. Then shape the headlight sheet metal to the correct radius, then drill the holes in the backer steel where they line up with the holes in the sheet metal. Another enjoyable video. I have found that I like this project more than making a whole new part, as in the Jaguar series. I seem to be able to see where this is going maybe. I wonder, could Mark somehow make a video of all the video entries? Pete
The fender mounting holes will be very close to perfect when done. They were off maybe .050", less than a sixteenth of an inch.
Wood is also clay. If you screw it up, you can usually glue it back together.
I have never had any luck butt gluing end grain to make a longer board....
If this were steel, would you go about doing this technique? Would you have been able to pull out that fold, or would you have to fabricate all new pieces to be welded in?
Steel would have to be moved with hydraulics and heat other than that it would be the same.
perfect, the metal strip is a sort of ,,, inflexible shape pattern .
Hi Ray I just got back and have seen this excellent videos and have to ask a question regarding the torch settings Are you using a oxidizing flame "white colored flame" or is it the video content? Also I want to say you keep it simple . Dan R.
I was using a standard neutral flame, the intend is only to heat to 300 to 400 degrees F.
Have a Happy Birthday
Thanks but that is in April, I'll be 71.
What model Everlast welder do you use?
Want to buy a multi process high frequency continuous Tig but want a spool gun for Aluminum too.
I have two Everlast 210 EXT tig welders. Very happy with them.
Wray, whatever happened to the Studebaker “Bullet nose” car project?
Back burnered to after the Covid Madness.
Seems like that headlight ring could be better done out of flat sheet either plasma or laser cut.
Agreed, I have a CNC plasma cutter, most people don't hence the method I used.
hi ray have you found a hotrod to build tet?
I have a design and it is featured in some of my early videos.
@27:44 metal is clay, but titanium is bloody expensive clay...
I don’t do any bodywork but I’m fascinated by your work, especially the Healey. I love the precision and patience.
Ps. Could someone please send Wray a 7” Lucas headlamp bucket that was standard fitting in most cars of that age!! I’m in the UK and the postage is prohibitive.
How much?
I'm guessing you must be creating some micro fractures doing this, how do you regain the original strength afterwards?
Metal is Clay no micro fractures.
Wray , What's your take (value) on the Green Everlast tig machines. You have the big blue and I have an old blue transformer with a separate touch hi freq system(no foot pedal). I appreciate your opinion, love the videos, opinions and even purchased a shrinking disc years ago. (063 aluminum).I respect the opinion of a guy that welds every day of the week! Thanks Joe
The Everlast 210 EXT tig welders are real fine machines. I just bought a Harbor Freight Vulcan too. I am impressed with it except for the rubber tig torch. I'm looking for a replacement torch that is more flexible.
Chasing the wrinkles is like playing “whack-a-mole”.
33:10, Man hammering on a Wilton vise with a three pound sledge:: "why would they do something like that?"
I will burn in hell for it. I bought it years ago for something like $25.00 from a local scrapyard. I made the special jaws which bolt in so it really hasn't seen any abuse, it just looks that way.
Отличный мастер класс
👍👍👍
Take the clamps off and it will slide
You'll have to come by and make a video with me and show me how it's done. Apparently my 58 years of experience working on collector cars is failing me.
👍👏👏
I could see in the first video in the middle of the hood hole needs to come up a mile
It will keep watching.
Better to plan Early
The day is not long enough. For me it runs from 9:00AM to 11:30PM lately- everyday including weekends, and I still get pissed I didn't get enough done.
Opening looks egg shaped. Wide on right side pointed on left
That hasn't been addressed yet.
.2 milli seconds to destroy ,omg hours to fix ..
Wray the six P’s in my world go proper planning prevents piss poor performance !
P words are powerful- see.
P for pertinent
Shroud of Turin restoration?
Thank you for posting. This video shows hands on how to straighten and smooth metal with basic tools. I dont believe the shroud will be saved in the end but it is not important since good reproductions are available . I view this attempt more like an attention grabber and a very interesting array of hammering techniques and simple templates. I dont understand why you beat on that flat bar for 20 minutes while you could easily draw a template and duplicate on a 3/8 plate and cut with either a torch if so inclined, or a plasma cutter. Plus if you wanted to duplicate a forge you should use a rosebud instead. that is teaching bad habits to newcomers.
Please unsubscribe, you don't get it. I'll watch your channel someday.....
@@proshaper Hello Wray you are the one asking us to subscribe and comment, this should include criticism providing it is courteous and constructive. This shroud will NEVER go on a car and that is ok with me, it does not invalidate your approach to metal forming. I learned quit a bit looking at you channel, mainly because I am working on my 3000 alum panels. If you dont like criticism dont ask people to comment.
You don't believe the shroud will be saved? Something tells me your comment won't age well! Did you see what he started with? I'd say the shroud has already been saved and it's well on its way to being a part that someone can use on their car.
@@CarterAutoRestyling I think he is just a jealous hater. I will delete him in the future if he makes more hater comments.