Wray , as you mention those front panels where placed on a proper factory jig , tig welded from the back for strenght ,then planished on a accurate mandrell in order to have little filing on the top side penetration , also as you mention the picking marks on the inside are where the lows where brought up and filed . I have seen that been done in England at a spare parts reproduction factory using old jigs ,it was very interesting
Wray you remind me of Maximum Max from the Princess Bride to paraphrase “your part is only partly dead”. You are The metal wizard, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
It's nice to see that some brute force (albeit strategically placed) is occasionally needed! I really like your videos Wray - the way you think things through and then talk us through it is greatly appreciated :)
Very nostalgic. I did a "BIG" Healy in the mid '80's. At the time, there was some stuff called CELLOSEEL which was used between the aluminum inner panels and the outer steel panels to eliminate, or at least reduce, the galvanic corrosion between the two metals. I still have most of a tube left and it felt like it's still good. Nice job on keeping those knots from closing over. There are a million approaches to unbending a panel like that one and I'm sure you have forgotten more than I've ever known. In light of that, one approach is to envision the sequence in which the damage occurred and start unbending from the point that was bent last and work along to the point that occurred first. Any comment on that approach for a mangled mess like the one you are working on? Thanks for all the effort you are putting into these videos. They are very informative and I know they take a lot of time.
I can’t stress enough about how much I love your videos. They’re so informative it’s awesome. I work in a body shop and obviously we can’t spend too much time on metal finishing. So watching you restore a part like that to as if it came directly from the factory new is entertaining to say the least. I have been introducing your videos to my friends at work and they’re blown away. Most of the guys have never seen a shrinking wheel before. Keep on rockin on! 🤘🏻
I have owned 3 bj8 and my first i owner from 65 till 2020. They are a blast to own and of course work on because they were simple mechanically. Beautiful car both shape and interior with the burl walnut.
Hi Wray, Hi Mark, I always feel like I am back there when I see these videos. You said that you got some cool stuff from that old car restoration place. Why not make a video showing us that stuff. Also maybe a video of you giving a tour of your whole shop. I always was amazed at how much great stuff is in that building. Pete
Truly enjoy your work and i am looking forward to coming to one of your 4 day classes.i have been in the body shop industry and i love what i do and i am a second generation body man.thank you for the gifts you give here!!!👊
Hi I only do aircraft shaping, in regards to anneals the temperature you gave as 750F is correct, for 3003 and 3005 in any of the "H" designation. European vehicles,,, I know Aston Martin used 5052 in door skins .5052 was used in alot of British ww2 aircraft it was called Birmabright 5052,5083 and 5086 anneals at 650F. Quench with water or air. Do not torch anneal 2024 in any "T" or "O" designation ( it can be done but it's very involved) 6061 is similar to 2024 as far as annealing. Wray you videos are excellent.
What you demonstrate in this video is why I really like working with aluminum instead of steel. I've found it much easier to shape aluminum over steel any day.
Nice to see repairs and forming using tools learners have access to. Oddly enough I had almost the identical repair about 25-27 years ago on a 100-6. Seem to recall bending a piece of 1/2" bar stock to fit the drip channel for the hood opening, bending some 1"x 1/4" and sandwich bolting the fender flange, I could tack some 1/2" flat to each side and used a porta-power to help open the reverse curve back up using some ready rod as a tie across the tops of my push tabs, and a few dozen Vice grips holding both support bars in place. If my memory isn't failing me, some 1" and 2" pipe welded to some flat plate will make perfect T dollies for planishing out that reverse........ Anyways Thanks Wray and Thanks Mark and Eric for your time and effort. And if you don't post another vid beforehand have a great Christmas!
Great movie. Thanks to all Wray's Team. It seems we have noather "P" to remember. It will be interesting to see how many "P"s will be in the end ;-). Thanks for this series. Greetings from Poland!
In one of the comments Prayer was suggested. We"ll call it the Five Ps and make it a T-shirt. Success = Passion! Patience! Precision! Persistance! Prayer!
This is the project I’ve been waiting for ! I’m working on the dings, many if which I’m responsible for, on a Mark I I bought for $500 in 1970. I’m taking notes.
Awesome work on the Healey surround. I’ve straightened some irreplaceable parts with patience, persistence and passion. What a feeling of accomplishment when the customer is happy when they pick it up.
As always great video, at a shop I worked in many years ago a guy brought in the front and rear aluminum panels off a 100-6 that looked like a bag of walnuts and the paint stripped off with 36 grit. A terrible job with gallons of filler. Picked up a Milwaukee 7/9”grinder and I’m going use the shrinking disc on my E coupe tomorrow.
Great to see some aluminium accidental repair, there’s very little out there on it. How do you spot weld aluminium Wray? I’d love to learn how to do that for my work.
As far as I know aluminum spot welder machines are very expensive. I have never spot welded aluminum with a standard spot welder. You can plug weld it using a tig or a mig. Maye someone will comment with a inexpensive method. I have tried the sandwich method- didn't work.
@@proshaper thanks Wray I’d been told about the sandwich method, although like you was skeptical! Thanks for getting back to me, really enjoy your videos and have learnt a lot from them 🙂
OK, just starting to watch but if the question is - can we save the big Healey, the answer is "yes" whatever it takes. This is the Ducati 916 of cars for me! The dream. Now, on with the show! EDIT - watching the old school skills - love it - bringing this lady back!
You sure could see that moving doing a great job. I would love to come out and do your classes but I think it should go to someone that could put it to good . For me it would be just to see if I have what it takes to do it right and good
What I find interesting is the process starts in a way I (not knowing what I'm doing) might guess to start with. I think it's knowing where to go from there which comes from experience. Also video was worth a watch just for the tidbit about annealing at 700F vs crystalization at 900F. I didn't know you could overheat it when trying to anneal. I fixed a heater core with a crushed copper pipe end by annealing it and hammering it using a steel pin for a mandrel. Probably lucky I didn't crystalize it instead of annealing it.
Copper you anneal by watching the color. A dull red does it. Aluminum is different you have to get the temperature just right. Too little heat and there is no softening, too much heat and it turns whiter and crystallizes, which causes it to lose all of it's strength.
@@proshaper I'm starting to think you just like hitting things with a big hammer ... and the rest of us just like to watch ... you keep hitting things and we will keep watching ... t
When you are working on aluminum like this, is it a good idea to smoke it then burn the smoke off type of annealing to the metal or will it become too soft? Do you have problems with work hardening of the metal in some of the more bent areas?
Wray at this point would working your way across the panel with a hammer and dolly taking out the creases one by one be an efficient method? Or too time consuming?
You can also use a 2 to 4 of ratchet straps anchored to different points and work then with varying force and direction while applying a bit of heat. A poor man's hydraulic alternative.
Great video your techniques are very helpful in my restoration. I purchased one of your shrinking dick kits and found it turn my minimum skills up a step or two. Thank you Wray and Mark for providing these video I look forward to them every week. Take care
@@toolmike100 it is 1221 to melt aluminum . I just want to see if anyone would read and comment. Yes different alloys melt at different temps. The they all get a bit jelly at 1221deg f. Thanks for your comment, it made me smile.😉
@@williambasinger5859 Many years ago I ran a die cast machine and I remember when the temperature was up to 1200 the furnace just glowed. Lots of memories.
Wray , as you mention those front panels where placed on a proper factory jig , tig welded from the back for strenght ,then planished on a accurate mandrell in order to have little filing on the top side penetration , also as you mention the picking marks on the inside are where the lows where brought up and filed . I have seen that been done in England at a spare parts reproduction factory using old jigs ,it was very interesting
Wray you remind me of Maximum Max from the Princess Bride to paraphrase “your part is only partly dead”.
You are The metal wizard, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
It's nice to see that some brute force (albeit strategically placed) is occasionally needed! I really like your videos Wray - the way you think things through and then talk us through it is greatly appreciated :)
Very nostalgic. I did a "BIG" Healy in the mid '80's. At the time, there was some stuff called CELLOSEEL which was used between the aluminum inner panels and the outer steel panels to eliminate, or at least reduce, the galvanic corrosion between the two metals. I still have most of a tube left and it felt like it's still good. Nice job on keeping those knots from closing over. There are a million approaches to unbending a panel like that one and I'm sure you have forgotten more than I've ever known. In light of that, one approach is to envision the sequence in which the damage occurred and start unbending from the point that was bent last and work along to the point that occurred first. Any comment on that approach for a mangled mess like the one you are working on? Thanks for all the effort you are putting into these videos. They are very informative and I know they take a lot of time.
I can’t stress enough about how much I love your videos. They’re so informative it’s awesome. I work in a body shop and obviously we can’t spend too much time on metal finishing. So watching you restore a part like that to as if it came directly from the factory new is entertaining to say the least. I have been introducing your videos to my friends at work and they’re blown away. Most of the guys have never seen a shrinking wheel before. Keep on rockin on! 🤘🏻
I have owned 3 bj8 and my first i owner from 65 till 2020. They are a blast to own and of course work on because they were simple mechanically. Beautiful car both shape and interior with the burl walnut.
Hi Wray, Hi Mark, I always feel like I am back there when I see these videos. You said that you got some cool stuff from that old car restoration place. Why not make a video showing us that stuff. Also maybe a video of you giving a tour of your whole shop. I always was amazed at how much great stuff is in that building. Pete
Truly enjoy your work and i am looking forward to coming to one of your 4 day classes.i have been in the body shop industry and i love what i do and i am a second generation body man.thank you for the gifts you give here!!!👊
Always rewarding to watch your presentations and experience in action!
Hi I only do aircraft shaping, in regards to anneals the temperature you gave as 750F is correct, for 3003 and 3005 in any of the "H" designation. European vehicles,,, I know Aston Martin used 5052 in door skins .5052 was used in alot of British ww2 aircraft it was called Birmabright 5052,5083 and 5086 anneals at 650F. Quench with water or air. Do not torch anneal 2024 in any "T" or "O" designation ( it can be done but it's very involved) 6061 is similar to 2024 as far as annealing.
Wray you videos are excellent.
Passion Patience Precision and Persistence. Well said!
What you demonstrate in this video is why I really like working with aluminum instead of steel. I've found it much easier to shape aluminum over steel any day.
Nice to see repairs and forming using tools learners have access to. Oddly enough I had almost the identical repair about 25-27 years ago on a 100-6. Seem to recall bending a piece of 1/2" bar stock to fit the drip channel for the hood opening, bending some 1"x 1/4" and sandwich bolting the fender flange, I could tack some 1/2" flat to each side and used a porta-power to help open the reverse curve back up using some ready rod as a tie across the tops of my push tabs, and a few dozen Vice grips holding both support bars in place. If my memory isn't failing me, some 1" and 2" pipe welded to some flat plate will make perfect T dollies for planishing out that reverse........ Anyways Thanks Wray and Thanks Mark and Eric for your time and effort. And if you don't post another vid beforehand have a great Christmas!
A master of his craft at work
I enjoyed that...picked up lot of hints..have 56 MGA and 58 Cameo and thank you
I'm a New subscriber fascinating love to see true craftsman at work I'm gonna catch up with the other episodes as I can thank you so much guys ♥️
Great movie. Thanks to all Wray's Team. It seems we have noather "P" to remember. It will be interesting to see how many "P"s will be in the end ;-). Thanks for this series. Greetings from Poland!
In one of the comments Prayer was suggested. We"ll call it the Five Ps and make it a T-shirt.
Success = Passion! Patience! Precision! Persistance! Prayer!
@@proshaper What can I say. Just 'P'erfect
This is the project I’ve been waiting for ! I’m working on the dings, many if which I’m responsible for, on a Mark I I bought for $500 in 1970. I’m taking notes.
Excelente !!!!!! No puedo esperar ver la segunda parte.
Gracias maestro.
Awesome work on the Healey surround. I’ve straightened some irreplaceable parts with patience, persistence and passion. What a feeling of accomplishment when the customer is happy when they pick it up.
This is fascinating to watch can’t wait to see the rest of these videos
As always great video, at a shop I worked in many years ago a guy brought in the front and rear aluminum panels off a 100-6 that looked like a bag of walnuts and the paint stripped off with 36 grit. A terrible job with gallons of filler.
Picked up a Milwaukee 7/9”grinder and I’m going use the shrinking disc on my E coupe tomorrow.
Great explanations! I'm looking forward to seeing the repairs progress! Thanks for sharing.
Great to see some aluminium accidental repair, there’s very little out there on it. How do you spot weld aluminium Wray? I’d love to learn how to do that for my work.
As far as I know aluminum spot welder machines are very expensive. I have never spot welded aluminum with a standard spot welder. You can plug weld it using a tig or a mig. Maye someone will comment with a inexpensive method. I have tried the sandwich method- didn't work.
@@proshaper thanks Wray I’d been told about the sandwich method, although like you was skeptical! Thanks for getting back to me, really enjoy your videos and have learnt a lot from them 🙂
love these videos Wray I find them very informative and you explain the process so well
thankyou
My dad had a 100-4 back in the 60s
OK, just starting to watch but if the question is - can we save the big Healey, the answer is "yes" whatever it takes. This is the Ducati 916 of cars for me! The dream. Now, on with the show! EDIT - watching the old school skills - love it - bringing this lady back!
Love it, keep it coming please.
You sure could see that moving doing a great job. I would love to come out and do your classes but I think it should go to someone that could put it to good . For me it would be just to see if I have what it takes to do it right and good
Very interesting thanks Wray
What I find interesting is the process starts in a way I (not knowing what I'm doing) might guess to start with. I think it's knowing where to go from there which comes from experience. Also video was worth a watch just for the tidbit about annealing at 700F vs crystalization at 900F. I didn't know you could overheat it when trying to anneal. I fixed a heater core with a crushed copper pipe end by annealing it and hammering it using a steel pin for a mandrel. Probably lucky I didn't crystalize it instead of annealing it.
Copper you anneal by watching the color. A dull red does it. Aluminum is different you have to get the temperature just right. Too little heat and there is no softening, too much heat and it turns whiter and crystallizes, which causes it to lose all of it's strength.
Wray can save it for sure.!!!
Epic undertaking. I love watching the process. How would a planishing bit on an air chisel work on this piece?
A planishing hammer will tend to increase the area
( stretching). It is too localized
About 44,000 Austin-Healey 3000 cars were produced in 8 years, 17,700 of which were 3rd generation models.
I like the new hd panel hammer at 23.00ish
Some gret projects on the go , how on earth do you keep track of them all.
I'm guided by my fun meter.
@@proshaper I'm starting to think you just like hitting things with a big hammer ... and the rest of us just like to watch ... you keep hitting things and we will keep watching ... t
@@tomthompson7400 it's probably a primal urge deep in our DNA, to survive you had to hit things.
@@proshaper your sort of a petrol heads version of Charlie Watts ..
Still learning in every episode.
When you are working on aluminum like this, is it a good idea to smoke it then burn the smoke off type of annealing to the metal or will it become too soft? Do you have problems with work hardening of the metal in some of the more bent areas?
With the warming technique I'm using the metal is moving. If it wasn't moving then I would fully anneal.
Wray at this point would working your way across the panel with a hammer and dolly taking out the creases one by one be an efficient method? Or too time consuming?
You have to move the major creases first, later finish the smaller stuff.
I need to borrow mark to video the jaguar mk2 restoration how would he like a trip from new england to old england
I like this kind of video.
Some ratchet straps would work well, use them and massage it with the rubber mallet
You can also use a 2 to 4 of ratchet straps anchored to different points and work then with varying force and direction while applying a bit of heat. A poor man's hydraulic alternative.
I would have resorted to some type of pulling if nothing moved. I still might need pulling and constant pressure to square up the hood opening.
Makes me wish I had saved some of the cars I scrapped over the years. Who knew they were repairable after all…
I thought that a hydraulic frame tool set came with that.
Hi Wray this place may give you some information, its where I get my bits from...... Austin Healey and Sprite parts specialists | A H Spares Ltd
Great video your techniques are very helpful in my restoration. I purchased one of your shrinking dick kits and found it turn my minimum skills up a step or two. Thank you Wray and Mark for providing these video I look forward to them every week. Take care
👏👏👏👏👏
28:42
the bondo is burning lol, that panel has never even heard of bondo.
Yes, it was paint burning.
When I went to school aluminum melted at 1640f
I think it depends on the alloy.
@@toolmike100 it is 1221 to melt aluminum . I just want to see if anyone would read and comment. Yes different alloys melt at different temps. The they all get a bit jelly at 1221deg f. Thanks for your comment, it made me smile.😉
@@williambasinger5859 Many years ago I ran a die cast machine and I remember when the temperature was up to 1200 the furnace just glowed. Lots of memories.
If anyone can wray it is you
Given a door handle and the key you can repair the car
Fifth “P” = Prayer 😁
Good One!!!
Back in yester year in LONG BEACH CA. Roger Bloxhelms body shop he had 2 me5talsmiths from England Gas welded panels beautiful welding .