Good work rescuing that drill. WD isn't always the best for ancient rust. It's a water displacement but it doesn't always penetrate well. The best thing I came across was Wurth rost off penetrating fluid with graphite if you can get hold of it. I've rebuilt a lot of vintage engines and it was about the best thing.
how about you take the 4 bolts out holding the column onto the base and then see if you can get at it where the rack is. that is from the inside. Get videos keep them coming
Unfortunately, the rack is sandwiched between the main column casting and the arm casting that's slid over it, so no access from inside. I would have to lift the whole arm up off the column, which has to happen at some point so could be a good option! Thanks
Something I always enjoy about this kind of age machinery is that if you get a little one a big one is the same ....just bigger, they seem to just scale everything up 3 or 4 to 1 and it works ...its a bit like using a photocopier to make writing bigger, so simple and effective Did you save the moss for later? Ooh helpful tip on the blue and yellow juice..if you buy a sealey solvent proof pressure sprayer and a 5 litre jug of the stuff, it works out a lot cheaper than spray cans in the long run... they actually pay for themselves in the first 5litres of wd40. Definitely feel your frustration on that gear...could you put a copper sleeve in the shaft and lever it out from the inside
My only suggestion to release your gear is a lot of heat, get the gas axe on it. As to the head gear you could buy a children's paddling pool and fill it with oxalic acid, and some washing powder, de grease and and jet wash it then drop it in the paddling pool and leave it for a few days. Or a week . it will get a lot of the rust off and help fee it off .If you do it in the summer the warm weather will also help make the chemical reaction work much better. It's a grate machine and will be perfect for your shop.
I hadn't seen PlusGas for years until about 30 years ago when I started work at Cooper Bussmann in Frome where it was used to clean the solder flux residue off the machines. Wurth brake cleaner was effective at dissolving the flux but after the Wurth had evaporated it stuck like the proverbial to a blanket!
I wonder if it goes into the casting instead of out of the casting ? I have a bunch of stuck machines from a resent fire burned up my whole shop . So if you can get this old machine apart I think I will do the same .
That is definitely an option, I'll give it some gentle pressure outwards, and if that doesn't work, look at getting the column lifted! So sorry to hear about your shop, the good thing about old iron is it is resurectable. Cheers.
Can you fish a few pieces of 3mm steel braided cable around the back of the gear? (Or maybe steel crate banding) If you can then you can make a loop and pull on it with the forklift .
The rack and pinion are binding due to some sort of broken tooth and then due to gravity? I'd try to lift the casting that slides on the column (easy job with the forklift). This could free up the suspected broken thing between the pinion and the rack.
@@iron_jonesy These thing do happen from time to time, but your just the man to save it and put it to good use. It;s lucky to get such a good home , My only question is wear are you going to put it shop looks prity full.. But don't let me put you off. gait project for You Tube .
Alex... The weight of the arm is preventing the gear from coming out... Look at the shape of the gear teeth and the relationship between those and the rack... There doesn't appear to be what you'd consider a pressure angle on those teeth... Lift the arm with the telehandler then try prying that gear out from both sides (2 pry bars).... Happen you'll be successful... All's you're doing at the moment is fighting against the weight of that column... ☹️🇬🇧
I'm fairly certain the arm is all the way down and sat on the base of the column, but the arm definitely needs to lift off soon, In theory the rack should pull up with it. If the gear wont pull out sideways first then it should definitely pop out once its over the column
Maybe a large two legged gear/pulley puller with legs engaging with the upper and lower teeth of the gear; and a strong fabricated bridge or frame, resting on the casting on either side, would then allow the gear to be pulled out, horizontally.
You will have better luck if you sand blast or such ,remove as much rust at first ,you will get better heat and penatration the rust acts like an insulator to heat and just soaks up the juice before it can get to where it needs to be!
It could be just a really good fit , rusted up and cantankerous , Who are you to remove me after all these years , You could refit the shaft and key , and have a big nut welded onto the end of the shaft exposed , then try continuous clockwise and anti clockwise force , you may have to weld the nut on a few times . Dont get angry and start hammering the pinion being cast it will break .
11:29 I love your inventiveness in solving problems, and also that you show that you had problems :)
Lovely old drill. That tee slot table is just awesome.
This is delightful. Also, you may want to invest in a swimming pool full of Evapo-Rust.
Yep! Parts will definitely be taking a bath soon
Enjoyed video,thanks.
Good work rescuing that drill. WD isn't always the best for ancient rust. It's a water displacement but it doesn't always penetrate well. The best thing I came across was Wurth rost off penetrating fluid with graphite if you can get hold of it. I've rebuilt a lot of vintage engines and it was about the best thing.
how about you take the 4 bolts out holding the column onto the base and then see if you can get at it where the rack is. that is from the inside. Get videos keep them coming
Unfortunately, the rack is sandwiched between the main column casting and the arm casting that's slid over it, so no access from inside. I would have to lift the whole arm up off the column, which has to happen at some point so could be a good option! Thanks
That would be a lovely bedside table, hang a bulb from the chuck
Great video, thanks
Heat!
Something I always enjoy about this kind of age machinery is that if you get a little one a big one is the same ....just bigger, they seem to just scale everything up 3 or 4 to 1 and it works ...its a bit like using a photocopier to make writing bigger, so simple and effective
Did you save the moss for later?
Ooh helpful tip on the blue and yellow juice..if you buy a sealey solvent proof pressure sprayer and a 5 litre jug of the stuff, it works out a lot cheaper than spray cans in the long run... they actually pay for themselves in the first 5litres of wd40.
Definitely feel your frustration on that gear...could you put a copper sleeve in the shaft and lever it out from the inside
Ooh good tip thanks, I gave up on the 5l tubs because the sprayers they come with are useless. Ill try the sealey one. Cheers!
that looks like a amazing machine !
Awesome table on that machine
keep up the good work.
Cheers!
My only suggestion to release your gear is a lot of heat, get the gas axe on it. As to the head gear you could buy a children's paddling pool and fill it with oxalic acid, and some washing powder, de grease and and jet wash it then drop it in the paddling pool and leave it for a few days. Or a week . it will get a lot of the rust off and help fee it off .If you do it in the summer the warm weather will also help make the chemical reaction work much better. It's a grate machine and will be perfect for your shop.
I've used that recipe before, works great, but don't leave parts in it for more than 2 or 3 days, carbon migration will absoutely destroy them
Good Idea, The head will definitely be taking a bath soon
Would it be possible the gear was fitted from inside before the colunm was assembled ,good luck😮
That's possible for sure! Would certainly make things awkward 🤣
How about running a thin grinder cut off disc down the sides
I didn't know they still made plusgaz, never see it in London
I hadn't seen PlusGas for years until about 30 years ago when I started work at Cooper Bussmann in Frome where it was used to clean the solder flux residue off the machines. Wurth brake cleaner was effective at dissolving the flux but after the Wurth had evaporated it stuck like the proverbial to a blanket!
I wonder if it goes into the casting instead of out of the casting ? I have a bunch of stuck machines from a resent fire burned up my whole shop . So if you can get this old machine apart I think I will do the same .
That is definitely an option, I'll give it some gentle pressure outwards, and if that doesn't work, look at getting the column lifted! So sorry to hear about your shop, the good thing about old iron is it is resurectable. Cheers.
blackstrap molasses, hands down the most effective and cheap rust remover...
and afterwards, you can make some rum!
Yes, Ive heard this before, never tried it but want to. Definitely a contender for bathing the head in
@@iron_jonesy didnt believe it when a friend did it a while back...
yeah, im a convert. bloody amazing!
Heat in the casting or dry ice on the gear
Can you fish a few pieces of 3mm steel braided cable around the back of the gear? (Or maybe steel crate banding) If you can then you can make a loop and pull on it with the forklift .
Hadn't thought of that, interesting idea
The rack and pinion are binding due to some sort of broken tooth and then due to gravity? I'd try to lift the casting that slides on the column (easy job with the forklift). This could free up the suspected broken thing between the pinion and the rack.
Could well be, getting the arm to slide up and off is high on this list of jobs to tackle
Love the fraise, and then it followed me home.
I didn't really have a choice did I!
@@iron_jonesy These thing do happen from time to time, but your just the man to save it and put it to good use. It;s lucky to get such a good home , My only question is wear are you going to put it shop looks prity full.. But don't let me put you off. gait project for You Tube .
@russellnixon9981 I have a couple tricks up my sleeve!
Turn drill body to have pinion face out , get ye olde ratchet strap around Ye olde telehandler.great project
Alex...
The weight of the arm is preventing the gear from coming out...
Look at the shape of the gear teeth and the relationship between those and the rack...
There doesn't appear to be what you'd consider a pressure angle on those teeth...
Lift the arm with the telehandler then try prying that gear out from both sides (2 pry bars)....
Happen you'll be successful...
All's you're doing at the moment is fighting against the weight of that column...
☹️🇬🇧
I'm fairly certain the arm is all the way down and sat on the base of the column, but the arm definitely needs to lift off soon, In theory the rack should pull up with it. If the gear wont pull out sideways first then it should definitely pop out once its over the column
Maybe a large two legged gear/pulley puller with legs engaging with the upper and lower teeth of the gear; and a strong fabricated bridge or frame, resting on the casting on either side, would then allow the gear to be pulled out, horizontally.
My thoughts too, Ill be trying this first I think. Cheers!
@@iron_jonesy i was thinking two crowbars simultaneously, one on top & one on bottom, but this is a much better idea
You will have better luck if you sand blast or such ,remove as much rust at first ,you will get better heat and penatration the rust acts like an insulator to heat and just soaks up the juice before it can get to where it needs to be!
De-grease, Wrap it in plastic and fill it full of molassas for a week. Then pressure wash and disassemble.
You should have hosed that hole thing down with penetrating oil weeks ago. It would have saved you tons of time. Deep creep is the best
@@mattlow2584 I've been oiling it for 2 years!
Hydrochloric acid, pool acid. Pour some over it and give it an hour
It could be just a really good fit , rusted up and cantankerous , Who are you to remove me after all these years , You could refit the shaft and key , and have a big nut welded onto the end of the shaft exposed , then try continuous clockwise and anti clockwise force , you may have to weld the nut on a few times . Dont get angry and start hammering the pinion being cast it will break .
I think that's exactly how its stuck, nice idea. Thanks