Victorian Radial Drilling Machine Restoration PART 3 - Extracting Seized Screws & Removing the Arm
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- More progress on the radial! I wanted to get the arm off and lie it down so it could be filled with a derusting solution. The first step towards trying to get it to swivel about its column. Before that I had to carefully remove the head traversing rack so it can be cleaned up with the other loose parts.
Cheers!
I love how these random videos pop up, yet I keep watching, because extracting stuck bolts is so satisfying .
weld or heat then immediately spray with penetrant oil and then turn bolt ...i work on very old machines and tractors ...and farming implements that are 100 years old . the combo of heat and oil will make them move alot better and not sheer off as much. dont let it cool down turn it right away with penetrant oil .....
That thing is going to be so cool when you are done with it , I really like how you clean up the machines and get them running .👍
Looked the old girl can't wait to get in side the work shop and join its friends
Amaizes to see the gig bolts come out relatively easterly.
Look forward to the next instalment . Great stuff Mr Jones..
On your frozen screws, us a heavy flat washer first- lay it over the screw head and weld it in place, then lay a nut over the washer and weld it- that gives you a much larget area of weld to hold.
Exactly what I was going to say! Thats how I've always done it!
I know there's so many people giving you so much helpful advice. I'm sorry to be yet another. Once you feel that bolt start to move, back and forth. Work it easy back and forth, lots of penetrant. Also smacking bolt heads with a hammer will help you a lot if you can. Some just aren't meant to come out but you'll have better luck going back and forth. Just a hair more each time.You're doing pretty damn well with that stick welder!
Thanks, all good tips. Im just happy the rack came out in one piece. The three sheared screws are all protruding from the surface, luckily. They should come with a welded nut and plenty more heat, oil, as you say. Cheers!
@@iron_jonesy Yea if something happened to the rack you'd be in a bad way! Heat, oil, impact if you can, back and forth, patience. I keep a small jar of broken fasteners that I removed. It's my good luck/victory jar. Another thing you might try, weld a washer to your broken stud if it protrudes at all. It's an easier target. Then weld a nut to the washer. Again an easier target. It seems to work out moderately for me. You're one hell of a Smithy. Have you ever thought about doing casting?
Nice to see progress on the mill, looking forward to seeing the next thrilling instalment
really enjoyable vid!! can't wait for the next one.👍👍👍👍👍
I like to weld nuts on , even on old cast the arc weld will always stick when you don’t want it to, welding on nuts keeps the pool away from the parts you wish to save. Great channel, keep warm.
Yeah, I always forget about the washer/nut trick when dealing with countersunk screws. Cheers!
What do you get when immovable objects, the seized screws, meet an irresistible force, Iron Jonesy? Another entertaining film. Can't wait for part 4.
It's a beast, but also a beautiful work of art. 👍
Nicely done, good progress
Dear Sir, this procedure requires nuts. Nice welds on the bolts though.
I really enjoy the channel. 🙂👍
I bet that column and arm weighs a ton easy. You did well laying it down being top heavy.
Great video - thank you! I must admit that I was on tenterhooks when you tackled getting the screws out of the rack - liked the solution; congratulations on achieving your goal.
@@dfishpool7052 Thank you!
This stuff totally floats my boat!
"That's not a bolt Mate, Now THIS is a bolt!" Good job sir.
They’re actually screws.
@@melgross Wasn't talking about the track but how the head was attached. God Bless you and have a better day!
Persistent! I love doing this stuff!
im glad to see you working this drill again . Thanks
Great project looks like your having fun
Well done Sir.
Nice. Just a quick and easy little job... well... :)
There's always something!
That was brilliant mate. I might have been tempted to try and enerpac wedge jack behind the rack to push it off the remnants of the bolt. But then given the rarity and delicate nature of those racks, maybe not. Great work.
You know I thought to myself while doing it, I could do with a spreader! Luckily they popped out without too much trouble!
Thanks!
Thank you!
First thing I would have tried would have been my 1/4” impact driver with the proper sized flat tip. That’s worked well for me over the years with very rusted in screws. It’s good as the impacts are small and shake up,the parts, but don’t have the large turning motion that wrench does, so it’s much less likely to,break the screw. I find that after a few seconds, or as much as ten, it suddenly becomes loose enough to come out. If that didn’t work and it did damage the slots, which there are deep enough, you could then try your method. But it’s certainly the last attempt, not the first.
I love this series. My kind of work.
You sound like you are very close to a motorway.
Well done on getting those setscrews out of the racks. Things like that I tend to do repeat heat/cool cycles, over a day or two before attempting removal.
Definitely, this has been an ongoing process, with many attempts over the last couple of years!
Try using white vinagar to bust rust. What will you do about the corosion on the gears and rack ?
and the pitting in the ways ?
The rack and gears will be de rusted in a similar solution, any pitting won't be a problem on those. I may machine the sided of the rack just for cosmetic reasons. As for the pitting on the ways, I'm unsure. The arm and bed will probably get a bath in something. There isn't much I can do about the pitting other than getting it ground or planed. Th
That drill looks like it is big enough to mill/bore steam engines!
Looks like a nice Frederick Town & Sons radial drill made in Halifax UK, We picked up a slightly later model with reverse and not needing quite as much restoration as yours but converted to electric & missing the flat belt cone & back gear.
@andrewmartin9313 Would you send me some photos, Andrew? I'd love to see the likeness
the general method there is to get the bolt to move a smidge in one direction and then go back the other working it back and forth so you don't shear it. If you can get penetrating oil down in there so much the better. We also weld nuts on with or without a washer between. I can't say what is right but I've never seen someone turn a crescent wrench with the force on the movable jaw. I think there are some vids out there talking about the whys and wherefores. Hopefully you can get the broken off stubs out with a welded nut or similar now that they are exposed. Also hopefully those are some standard thread that you can have made or purchase.
Yeah, I've heard of the wrench thing. Personally, I prefer to make use of the extra options given by the angled head regardless of where the fixed jaw is. It's very limiting in tight places otherwise.
Luckily, the screws are BSW and cheaply available. I had a hunch they would be before I sentenced them to death, based on fixings elsewhere on the machine.
may I suggest using an impact gun on the bolts during removal. I usually use a punch around the edge of the screw to reverse them finding the impact shock works well. I may copy your straight to welding technique in the future :)
Agreed, an impact probably would have been better. Never had one as part of my arsenal, maybe it's time to buy one!
@@iron_jonesy They are quite handy, my most recent one is a Milwaukee M12 1/2" gun. Had enough torque for tire nuts etc but is weak enough that it rarely breaks anything
Plenty of Never-Seize please ….on reassembly.
Great work great machine
Merry Christmas
Nah, neverseize is decent, but thread sealer is better, you could also use weak thread locker compound, but the thread sealant is just goo that prevents rust and fluid bypass, as well as offering some vibration mitigation to keep the threads in place but easily undone for service... Thread locker does the same thing if applied properly, but it cures into solid state binding and sealing agent... Axle grease(high moly grease) also does very well... Neverseize is just a bit of tacky grease with copper or similar crap in it... It`s not bad, but there are better options for all situations... But sure, plenty of any decent goop in the threads and on the threads upon final assembly! Also, yeah, damn nice machine...
Best regards!
Steuss
@RutherfordRyan1 Definitely plenty of grease on re assembly! But I'm also hoping it doesn't spend another half century out in the rain.
@
I was shittin myself when you had it slung….
So much weight to handle by yourself …be careful won’t you…!
I know you respect the mass ….! Love the cast Iron Age….
I live in the past….
HI, good video! you might be able to build a charcoal fire under the rack and let it heat up well. looks like you need a forklift when you can afford it before you drop one of those large casting on yourself.
Rich
Thanks! A fire under that rack area is definitely on the cards! I'm sure with some heat and leverage in the correct place it will move fine.
“Right. So, the problem, because there’s always a problem,…” This is one of the immutable laws of the Universe. 🤔
An impact wrench at a light setting will be far less likely to shear the rusty bolts.
First time whatching you ever
I wonder if the Titanic had a monster drill like that.
Imagine if you will, a belt driven line shaft powered impact driver.
Try a better grade of bolt and use an impact wrench, with low power and high impact speed.
JIM 🥰
Cheese headed bolts? I've never heard that name before. What exactly makes a bolt cheese headed, and when and where is the term from?
It refers to the head shape. Also known as Cap heads. Although I'd call an Allen one a cap head and a slotted one a cheesehead. Could be an old British term.
@ thanks, it does sound British...
buy an impact screwdriver for the next time you get stucked bolt, sometimes it can help you for this task.
When i restore heavily rusted tools, my first instinct is to either soak them in evaporust or similar stuff, or if not, to spray anything that could be possibly stuck in ungodly amounts of WD40. Is there a specific reason, you don´t take any chemical or tribological measures to take things apart?
Agreed, I use all those things. I just haven't shown it on camera for a while. I had this drill for nearly 2 years with constant oiling, cleaning and occasional heating before it started coming apart.
Make it glow before trying to take the bolts out it cant be stuck if its almost liquid
Are those Withworth, American or some other screw thread on those ?
Definitely whitworth, the big ones are 1 1/8" 7 and the cheeseheads are 3/8" 16
@ neat! I worked on an MGA that was an annoying mix of Whitworth and UNC/UNF
Why do you need that rack out of there anyway?
Just to clean it and the main casting properly
Problem is you are welding high tensile steel screws and the amount of heat sink around them simply chills the steel and embrittles it.
Great point, a quick normalise after welding probably wouldn't go amiss next time. Cheers
Have you thought about electrolysis?
@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc I've thought about it, but never tried it. I'd like to. Could be an option for large parts like the bed.
At least if you get one you know what your dealing with.
Get a jack in there and put a bit of weight on.......then come back in a few days...see if its moved...
If not then a warm up with bottles, heat more solution in a pan then launch it in whilst still hot.....
😐🇬🇧
Onko tää säteisporakone vanhakin?
It's from the 1880s or there abouts!
I think I would have filled the cavity with diesel oil or old brake fluid
That will be next. I want to chemically dissolve as much rust out of the joint as I can first!
Do the lead paint chips on that thing taste as good as they look >:)
Argh pls. Wd is just a water repellant as peoplr telling u. Get mix plus gas diesel graphite paraffin anything. When loosen bolts, just gentky back and forth whilst apply. Don't just wind out, i was wincing waiting for shear. Bloody brilliant else.
Use a cheater pipe over the monkey wrench, your back will thank you in 10 years😏
After having them sheared, I see little need for all other methods you were trying. Easiest thing to do (and safer for the maching) is to drill and tap those bolts 🫣