Thank you very much! The old oil paint is actually also a compromise. But unfortunately it could no longer be determined what color the original had. For sure it was neither acrylic paint nor nitrocellulose lacquer. The machine is too old for that. So oil paint was obvious, even if the 1913 catalog said 'enamel paint'. But what was meant by 'enamel paint' at that time, no one can understand today. I can live well with the compromise. I also always shudder when I see someone plastic-coating old machines.
Ja, sieht gut aus und passt zum Alter der Maschine. Welche Farben im Original benutzt wurden, ließ sich nicht mehr herausfinden. Es war ja nichts mehr übrig. Das Firmenarchiv konnte auch nichts herausfinden. Im Werbekatalog stand 'Emailfarben'. Aber woraus die damals bestanden, kann heute niemand mehr sagen. Daher eben Ölfarben, die um 1900 für die meisten Maschinen benutzt wurden. Die Verarbeitung war aber schwierig. Wirklich seehr lange Trocknungszeiten, selbst mit Sikkativzusatz. Und wenn die erste Schicht nicht wirklich komplett durchgetrocknet ist, kann es bei den weiteren Schichten zu Ablösungen kommen. Für die Werkzeugbauer muss es eine große Erleichterung gewesen sein, als in den 1920ern die Nitrozelluloselacke aufkamen. Viel schneller aufzutragen und nach einer Stunde trocken.
Imagine leaning in close for small precision drilling and taking a flyball to the head. I love this device though, I just wish the chuck could center a drill more accurately. I'd break with tradition on that and get a better chuck. Nice video!!
What a beautiful and unique drill press?! I have to wonder though...how many poor sods got themselves knocked out when they leaned in for a closer look🤨🤕 Beautiful restoration and metal fabrication..thank you for taking the time to record the very loving restoration of this item👍👍
What a great find and your restoration work is outstanding good job very interesting post never seen a drill press like this hats off to you thanks for posting Columbus Michigan
With out a doubt I would try and get a closer look at what I was drilling and get knocked out. Nice job on a very cool piece of tool history. Thanks for sharing 👍.
Remarkable work! I am far from an expert, but could the chuck possibly be saved by using it as the sacrificial anode while copper plating another object? As I understand it, the anode gives up copper to the plating solution which deposits the copper onto the desired object. Seems like a *short* stint as the anode would perhaps pull enough copper plating off the chuck to get it moving enough to disassemble for repair. It might not work, but all you would loose by trying is a little time, as the chuck is considered lost as is.
I always enjoy watching your videos, the methods and procedures are outstanding. I believe that whatever you work on ends up better than the day the item was made. Keep up the great interesting work.
A very effective tool for its time, and it’s name represents it well it is ahead if it’s time as far as both speed to pressure compared to others with adjustable pulleys to regulate.
I think the original creators would be proud of the small improvements you've made to the machine. Well done! Not a machine I would like to use as those big balls probably give me head aches, ahah.
Tolles Video und schöne Restauration! Habe letzte Woche exakt dieses Modell bei Kleinanzeigen gekauft. Leider ist bei mir das Bohrfutter auch kaputt - weißt Du welche Bohrfutteraufnahme ich brauche um ein neues zu bestellen? Kenne mich da leider nicht gut aus und finde auch im Netz keine Antworten. Ein netter Mitarbeiter von Flott hat mir exakt den gleichen Katalog geschickt, da steht aber leider zum Bohrfutter auch nichts drin. Beste Grüße Alex
Das müsste ich noch einmal abschrauben und nachmessen. Ich erinnere mich jedoch, dass es ein Din-Gewinde war, entweder Normgewinde oder Feingewinde. Das an der Spindel war noch in Ordnung. Bei dem alten Bohrfutter, das ich als Ersatz besorgt hatte, habe ich die Aufnahme ausgedreht, einen passenden Gewindeeinsatz mit etwas Übermaß gedreht und nach Erhitzen eingepresst. Hält bombenfest. Hilft aber vermutlich nicht viel, wenn ich Dir die Daten durchgebe. Ich würde nicht drauf wetten, dass da an allen Spindeln über alle Modelle und die gesamte Bauzeit immer die exakt identische Aufnahme dran war. Die haben eben auch genommen, was gerade auf Lager war und entsprechend angepasst.
@@chipsdust7534 Danke fürs schnelle Antworten! Deine Lösung hört sich ziemlich gut und professionell an - fällt bei mir allerdings leider raus, hab überhaupt keine Ahnung von Metallbearbeitung 😅 Wollte mich im Netz mal schlaumachen, aber es gibt ja unzählige verschiedene Gewinde - und dann auch noch alles in zölligen Angaben. Falls Du bei Gelegenheit bei Dir nachschauen könntest, würde ich mich ziemlich freuen! Danke Dir & viele Grüße!
@@alex_makes. Eben nachgemessen: Metrisches Feingewinde M12x1. Aber keine Gewähr, dass bei Dir dasselbe dran ist. Viel Spaß mit dem Regulateur. Wenn alles glatt und spielfrei läuft, sind Bohrleistung und Bedienung wirklich beeindruckend. Aber Vorsicht: Die Kugeln können einem den Schädel einschlagen. Kein Wunder, dass Arnz/Flott nach ein paar Jahren wieder auf konventionellen Spindelvortrieb zurückgekommen sind.
@@chipsdust7534 Servus! Vielen Dank fürs Messen! Habe gefühlt das komplette Netz durchforstet und das einzige passende Bohrfutter kommt von Röhm und nimmt maximal 8er Bohrer auf 😅 Vielleicht muss ich mir von einem Metaller ein Adapterstück drehen lassen. Und dass die beiden Fliehkraft-Gewichte sicherlich ordentliche Dellen im Schädel hinterlassen macht Sinn; könnte man sicher ein Lehrvideo a la „Staplerfahrer Klaus“ drüber drehen :) In jedem Fall vielen Dank fürs Antworten und Messen, deine Maschine sieht super aus, hoffe ich komme mit meiner demnächst weiter. Beste Grüße Alex
excellent work .!!.would have been nice to. have a needle bearing thrust bearing top and bottom of that rotation point (if dimensions allowed)or at least an oil impregnated bronze washer
A sliding disk made of bronze would have been the alternative if there had not been enough space. However, the small axial bearing is very discreet and hardly visible. And it can also be replaced with a bronze washer at a later date. I think, one bearing at the bottom is sufficient. When drilling, there is only pressure from below that has to be absorbed. Friction from above ist only when starting, before the drill hits the workpiece.
Brilliant job to a beautiful drill, but there's something nice about the drill in it's rusty state, i dont think I would ever use it, i would probably put it on display in a glass cabinet, really lovely job.
Super Video! Welche Kaltbrünierung hast du denn verwendet? Suche schon länger nach einer guten :) Und dann das Bauteil vorher noch entfetten? Vielen Dank!
Vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar! Ich nehme die Schnellbrünierung von Walhalla Chemie. Ich glaube aber nicht, dass es da große Qualitätsunterschiede zu anderen Herstellern gibt. Entfetten (mit Aceton) ist sehr wichtig, und unbedingt nach Entrosten/Schleifen sofort brünieren. Wenn das Ergebnis nicht auf Anhieb passt, mit Wasser spülen, trocknen und gleich noch einmal wiederholen. Danach etwas Leinöl drauf und es gibt eine schöne, tief schwarze und leicht glänzende Oberfläche. Viel Erfolg!
Great job saving this tool, but can see why they were phased out. Who knows how many people got knocked out or a broken hand from the centrifugal balls.
Thanks for Your comment! Of course i'd like to show the whole process with all details. But that takes time and Analytics also show: the longer I take, the more viewers brake. I always try to bring the video to an end in 15 minutes - but I always fail and need around 20 minutes. You think, this is still acceptable?
Saubere Arbeit, ich freue mich schon auf das nächste Video!😊 Aber die alte Drehbank ist die Krönung. Möchtest du darüber auch ein Video machen? Auch wenn du keine alten Aufnahmen hast, kannst du sie doch jetzt mal beschreiben! Wenn es ein kurzes Video ist auch nicht schlimm. Mach weiter so und bleib gesund!
Vielen Dank! Vielleicht mache ich beim nächsten Projekt einmal ein Kurzvideo zur Drehbank zwischendurch. Jedenfalls ein schönes Stück, klein, aber solide und präzise.
Very cool tool! And a very nice restoration. I wonder what possessed someone to copper plate this. I had never seen anyone use a lathe as a milling machine but use what you have, I reckon. Earned a new subscriber.
Thank you for the comment! Using a lathe as a milling machine is not difficult. You just need another top slide that is adjustable in height. Then you can move the workpiece in all three axes. Especially for smaller lathes, such an additional tool was often used. Because real milling machines were usually more expensive than lathes. But of course you can only use it for simple milling work on small workpieces. But it's perfectly just right for my small hobby workshop.
Perhaps I make a short video about my lathe during the next restoration project. It was built by 'Lorch', but I don't know the exakt model or year. To identify your lathe www.lathes.co.uk/page21.html might be helpful.
Legal. Os dois pesos em forma de bola é para dar o avanço de corte da broca, muito interessante. Como os tempos de hoje estamos encaminhando para uma crise energética este tipo de máquina soluciona um pouco na economia da energia. Veja que é uma ferramenta antiga superada pelas novas tecnologias, porém como já disse ela traz um benefício na redução do consumo de energia elétrica.
That restore with the copper everyone must have been a pain. I'd rather deal with the rust I guess. I thought it was clever how you did some repairs. And nice outcome. Seems kinda sketchy haveing those jawbreakers swinging by your face but I guess that was 1800s. Good job.
There is no special video about the lathe. At 16:44 most parts of the lathe are visible. It's a relative simple, small an old belt driven lathe made by Lorch around the year 1940. Small enough for my very tiny workshop! And precise enough me. If you like old lathes, I have two other really beautiful lathes (much older, before 1900) that can bee seen in some scenes in previous videos (th-cam.com/video/5f5ehxk1VoU/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/BP0NbmN1MUo/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/O3Jge_Bm9iw/w-d-xo.html).
@@chipsdust7534 citric acid is sometimes used to remove rust, and the peroxide should be fine. as long as you stick to something like 30%, and also cover it up so the peroxide stays in there longer. acid will eventually eat away at steel, but it takes a very long time in weak solution, much longer than the copper
An impact driver (either manual or electric) with a modified screwdriver bit would have probably removed the screws holding the balls on without the damage to the screw slots.
I don't think that would have worked. The screws were extremely tight. I suspect that with an impact driver and a modified bit (very thin, but two inches wide), the bit would have bent before the screw moved even a hair's breadth.
I forgot to mention you might try a muriatic acid bath to remove the plating on the other chuck just rinse and inspect it during the process to get the desired result without causing over etching the steel, if you want to keep it this might work, I have used it to remove other platings but not copper it might be worth a try you really have nothing to loose.
Thank you for this suggestion! Yes, for a moment I thought about using muriatic/hydrochloric acid. But two reasons spoke against it. First, I would need quite a large amount of acid and would also have to dispose of it properly afterwards. And second, hydrochloric acid attacks the base metal first. So in the worst case, the acid would attack the substance of the drill before it dissolved the copper. So all in all, I was quite satisfied with the copper coating. True, it caked everything together. But it is also a perfect rust protection. As for the drill chuck, I'll just keep the original along with the machine. Maybe a later owner will have an idea how to disassemble and restore the drill chuck despite the copper bath.
Indeed! That's possibly why Arnz some years later switched to less dangerous flywheels. They were safer, but didn't offer the possibility of automatic pressure control. And I understand why some users oft the Regulateur painted the balls signal red ...
In English, there is an expression, "go balls out." It basically means "go to the max." For example, "he drove his car balls out" means that he drove his car very fast. People think that it is an expression based on human anatomy. It is actually an expression based on machinery, like the one in this video.
Un verdadero restaurador hubiese conservado la patina he intervenido solo en los elementos dañados muy puntualmente esta antigüedad ha perdido su valor esto es una reparación
Gracias por su comentario. En principio, estoy de acuerdo con usted. Tampoco me gustan las restauraciones que se llevan toda la historia, toda la dignidad que una herramienta se ha ganado durante décadas de duro trabajo. Y me gusta conservar la pátina que habla de ella. Pero no en este caso. La pátina no era antigua. Era artificial. Precisamente esta pátina artificial de cobre había destruido toda la pátina antigua y honesta. Es decir, se me permitió quitarlo. Mientras tanto conseguí otro taladro del mismo tipo. Todavía parece que fue desmantelado hace 50 años. Todavía tiene muchos restos de la pintura original. Así que intentaré conservar todo lo que aún es original en la medida de lo posible. Tal vez haga un vídeo al respecto que te guste más.
Why so "file happy"? restoring isn't always taking away so much material, and certainly not filing away into ovlibion details such as the slots shape in the centrifugal mechanism and machining marks on the faces of the gears. Totally unnecessary.
The slots in the centrifugal mechanism had to be straightened. With all the copper, bent and worn out surfaces, the mechanism would no longer run smoothly and evenly, but only jerkily and irregular.
![1870s Circular Sock Knitting Machine [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rAFlLEoFilM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thumbs up for using the right "old" colors and no fancy ones .. this means restoration. Great job.
Thank you very much! The old oil paint is actually also a compromise. But unfortunately it could no longer be determined what color the original had. For sure it was neither acrylic paint nor nitrocellulose lacquer. The machine is too old for that. So oil paint was obvious, even if the 1913 catalog said 'enamel paint'. But what was meant by 'enamel paint' at that time, no one can understand today. I can live well with the compromise. I also always shudder when I see someone plastic-coating old machines.
also das mit den Leinölfarben find ich schon so genial ... vielen Dank!
Ja, sieht gut aus und passt zum Alter der Maschine. Welche Farben im Original benutzt wurden, ließ sich nicht mehr herausfinden. Es war ja nichts mehr übrig. Das Firmenarchiv konnte auch nichts herausfinden. Im Werbekatalog stand 'Emailfarben'. Aber woraus die damals bestanden, kann heute niemand mehr sagen. Daher eben Ölfarben, die um 1900 für die meisten Maschinen benutzt wurden. Die Verarbeitung war aber schwierig. Wirklich seehr lange Trocknungszeiten, selbst mit Sikkativzusatz. Und wenn die erste Schicht nicht wirklich komplett durchgetrocknet ist, kann es bei den weiteren Schichten zu Ablösungen kommen. Für die Werkzeugbauer muss es eine große Erleichterung gewesen sein, als in den 1920ern die Nitrozelluloselacke aufkamen. Viel schneller aufzutragen und nach einer Stunde trocken.
Imagine leaning in close for small precision drilling and taking a flyball to the head.
I love this device though, I just wish the chuck could center a drill more accurately. I'd break with tradition on that and get a better chuck. Nice video!!
I found onde this tool here in São Paulo -Brazil and now i know what to restore that. Thanks for your job.
Wow! Would like to know the way it tool to You. Good luck with the restoration!
What a beautiful and unique drill press?! I have to wonder though...how many poor sods got themselves knocked out when they leaned in for a closer look🤨🤕
Beautiful restoration and metal fabrication..thank you for taking the time to record the very loving restoration of this item👍👍
What a great find and your restoration work is outstanding good job very interesting post never seen a drill press like this hats off to you thanks for posting Columbus Michigan
Excellent friend great work, pity we can't do the same with people, but we are getting there, have a nice day !!!.
Absolutely excellent job , it looks amazing now .👏 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
With out a doubt I would try and get a closer look at what I was drilling and get knocked out. Nice job on a very cool piece of tool history. Thanks for sharing 👍.
Maybe there was an optional helmet that came with it. Like a leather football helmet.
@@someotherdude😂🤣😅👍🏻 it still however remains a " Knock-out Beaut "..⁉️🤔❤🙇♂️
Nice job
*leaning forward to see if the chips are clearing* *WHACK*
Your Camera work is really nice and proffesional👍🏼
Great job I also restored one very old drill and another newer one
Thanks! I will have a look for Your videos!
Awesome job you did restoring that vintage centrifugal press. It looks much better and works like a charm too. Great work.
Thanks!
From 1899!! That’s so cool
Great restoration. I have a similar one with a hand feed and no weighted balls. It will drill into metal surprisingly well.
Well done 👍
Very cool tool. Nice video
Very cool
Nice work
Amazing tool. Thank you for sharing the video. 👍
Remarkable work!
I am far from an expert, but could the chuck possibly be saved by using it as the sacrificial anode while copper plating another object? As I understand it, the anode gives up copper to the plating solution which deposits the copper onto the desired object. Seems like a *short* stint as the anode would perhaps pull enough copper plating off the chuck to get it moving enough to disassemble for repair.
It might not work, but all you would loose by trying is a little time, as the chuck is considered lost as is.
Degrease and ammonia in an ultrasonic bath might do the trick.
Una pieza muy bonita y un excelente trabajo
Beautiful job well done 👏 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Beatyfull work; but why didn't you give it an acid bath to get rid of the copper?
Because an acid bath normally attacks first the iron and alt last the copper - this might have ruined the machine instead of removing the copper.
Awesome!
I always enjoy watching your videos, the methods and procedures are outstanding. I believe that whatever you work on ends up better than the day the item was made. Keep up the great interesting work.
You could also remove the copper with electrolysis. Make it easier to save the mandrel.
Very well done. I am now a subscriber and will be supporting your channel . Thanks, Ed
Fantastic job and video and an amazing tool thanks for sharing your time and skill 🍺👍🇬🇧
Great job💫💫💫
excelllent and great angles 👌🏻 subscribed
Fantastic job! Ignore any negative comments. Those people make zero videos and are jealous
Stunning restoration hope its a keeper beautiful talent beyond perfection
That was very well done! HUZZAH!
Excellent job love the technology
good job 👍
A very effective tool for its time, and it’s name represents it well it is ahead if it’s time as far as both speed to pressure compared to others with adjustable pulleys to regulate.
I was thinking the same thing
Sehr sehr cooles video!!
Хорошее видео!! Очень необычная дрель!!👍
Да нет, это уже сверлильный станок.
I think the original creators would be proud of the small improvements you've made to the machine. Well done!
Not a machine I would like to use as those big balls probably give me head aches, ahah.
Keeps one wide awake on the job..⁉️🤔❤🙇♂️😅🤣😂
Looks like a hand smasher if you slipped with the handle 😊
Perfekt work!
Интересно увидеть в натуре то, что давно только в эскизе учебника "Физика" перевод Л Эллиот и У. Уилокс 1967
Nice work! New subscriber
So relaxing to watch
Do you think electrolysis would draw the copper away from the parts and make restoring easier?
Well done! The cobber colour was so much more pretty thou!
Tolles Video und schöne Restauration!
Habe letzte Woche exakt dieses Modell bei Kleinanzeigen gekauft. Leider ist bei mir das Bohrfutter auch kaputt - weißt Du welche Bohrfutteraufnahme ich brauche um ein neues zu bestellen? Kenne mich da leider nicht gut aus und finde auch im Netz keine Antworten.
Ein netter Mitarbeiter von Flott hat mir exakt den gleichen Katalog geschickt, da steht aber leider zum Bohrfutter auch nichts drin.
Beste Grüße
Alex
Das müsste ich noch einmal abschrauben und nachmessen. Ich erinnere mich jedoch, dass es ein Din-Gewinde war, entweder Normgewinde oder Feingewinde. Das an der Spindel war noch in Ordnung. Bei dem alten Bohrfutter, das ich als Ersatz besorgt hatte, habe ich die Aufnahme ausgedreht, einen passenden Gewindeeinsatz mit etwas Übermaß gedreht und nach Erhitzen eingepresst. Hält bombenfest. Hilft aber vermutlich nicht viel, wenn ich Dir die Daten durchgebe. Ich würde nicht drauf wetten, dass da an allen Spindeln über alle Modelle und die gesamte Bauzeit immer die exakt identische Aufnahme dran war. Die haben eben auch genommen, was gerade auf Lager war und entsprechend angepasst.
@@chipsdust7534 Danke fürs schnelle Antworten! Deine Lösung hört sich ziemlich gut und professionell an - fällt bei mir allerdings leider raus, hab überhaupt keine Ahnung von Metallbearbeitung 😅 Wollte mich im Netz mal schlaumachen, aber es gibt ja unzählige verschiedene Gewinde - und dann auch noch alles in zölligen Angaben. Falls Du bei Gelegenheit bei Dir nachschauen könntest, würde ich mich ziemlich freuen! Danke Dir & viele Grüße!
@@alex_makes. Eben nachgemessen: Metrisches Feingewinde M12x1. Aber keine Gewähr, dass bei Dir dasselbe dran ist. Viel Spaß mit dem Regulateur. Wenn alles glatt und spielfrei läuft, sind Bohrleistung und Bedienung wirklich beeindruckend. Aber Vorsicht: Die Kugeln können einem den Schädel einschlagen. Kein Wunder, dass Arnz/Flott nach ein paar Jahren wieder auf konventionellen Spindelvortrieb zurückgekommen sind.
@@chipsdust7534 Servus! Vielen Dank fürs Messen! Habe gefühlt das komplette Netz durchforstet und das einzige passende Bohrfutter kommt von Röhm und nimmt maximal 8er Bohrer auf 😅 Vielleicht muss ich mir von einem Metaller ein Adapterstück drehen lassen. Und dass die beiden Fliehkraft-Gewichte sicherlich ordentliche Dellen im Schädel hinterlassen macht Sinn; könnte man sicher ein Lehrvideo a la „Staplerfahrer Klaus“ drüber drehen :) In jedem Fall vielen Dank fürs Antworten und Messen, deine Maschine sieht super aus, hoffe ich komme mit meiner demnächst weiter.
Beste Grüße
Alex
@@alex_makes. In welcher Ecke wohnst du? Evtl kannst du auch mal bei mir aufschlagen und wir drehen was passendes.
По мне так идея использовать регулятор оборотов (он же своего рода маховик) гениальна!
Schöne Arbeit 👍🏻
excellent work .!!.would have been nice to. have a needle bearing thrust bearing top and bottom of that rotation point (if dimensions allowed)or at least an oil impregnated bronze washer
A sliding disk made of bronze would have been the alternative if there had not been enough space. However, the small axial bearing is very discreet and hardly visible. And it can also be replaced with a bronze washer at a later date. I think, one bearing at the bottom is sufficient. When drilling, there is only pressure from below that has to be absorbed. Friction from above ist only when starting, before the drill hits the workpiece.
Brilliant job to a beautiful drill, but there's something nice about the drill in it's rusty state, i dont think I would ever use it, i would probably put it on display in a glass cabinet, really lovely job.
Super Video! Welche Kaltbrünierung hast du denn verwendet? Suche schon länger nach einer guten :) Und dann das Bauteil vorher noch entfetten? Vielen Dank!
Vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar! Ich nehme die Schnellbrünierung von Walhalla Chemie. Ich glaube aber nicht, dass es da große Qualitätsunterschiede zu anderen Herstellern gibt. Entfetten (mit Aceton) ist sehr wichtig, und unbedingt nach Entrosten/Schleifen sofort brünieren. Wenn das Ergebnis nicht auf Anhieb passt, mit Wasser spülen, trocknen und gleich noch einmal wiederholen. Danach etwas Leinöl drauf und es gibt eine schöne, tief schwarze und leicht glänzende Oberfläche. Viel Erfolg!
Great job saving this tool, but can see why they were phased out. Who knows how many people got knocked out or a broken hand from the centrifugal balls.
Very nice!!! Please don't ever speed up your videos, I'm sure I speak for most of your viewers when I say we enjoy the whole journey.
Thanks for Your comment! Of course i'd like to show the whole process with all details. But that takes time and Analytics also show: the longer I take, the more viewers brake. I always try to bring the video to an end in 15 minutes - but I always fail and need around 20 minutes. You think, this is still acceptable?
This is where the saying balls out comes from
Maybe a MAP torch could soften the copper in the stuck parts. I have used it with very good results in extremely rusted parts.
Saubere Arbeit, ich freue mich schon auf das nächste Video!😊
Aber die alte Drehbank ist die Krönung. Möchtest du darüber auch ein Video machen?
Auch wenn du keine alten Aufnahmen hast, kannst du sie doch jetzt mal beschreiben!
Wenn es ein kurzes Video ist auch nicht schlimm.
Mach weiter so und bleib gesund!
Vielen Dank! Vielleicht mache ich beim nächsten Projekt einmal ein Kurzvideo zur Drehbank zwischendurch. Jedenfalls ein schönes Stück, klein, aber solide und präzise.
I’m trying to imagine getting smacked in the face by those weights holy hell
Boa tarde, você fez fotos das partes desmontadas dessa máquina? É possível ver as fotos? Muito bonita a máquina.
Muito obrigado! Infelizmente não tirei nenhuma fotografia, apenas imagens de vídeo.
Very cool tool! And a very nice restoration. I wonder what possessed someone to copper plate this. I had never seen anyone use a lathe as a milling machine but use what you have, I reckon. Earned a new subscriber.
Thank you for the comment! Using a lathe as a milling machine is not difficult. You just need another top slide that is adjustable in height. Then you can move the workpiece in all three axes. Especially for smaller lathes, such an additional tool was often used. Because real milling machines were usually more expensive than lathes. But of course you can only use it for simple milling work on small workpieces. But it's perfectly just right for my small hobby workshop.
Coppered probably purely for ornamental value..⁉️🤔🙇♂️
hello, can you make a short video about your lathe, I have a similar one, and I can’t determine what brand of machine it is. thank you.
Perhaps I make a short video about my lathe during the next restoration project. It was built by 'Lorch', but I don't know the exakt model or year. To identify your lathe www.lathes.co.uk/page21.html might be helpful.
@@chipsdust7534 thank you very much 👍👍👍
Why did you disassemble Chewbacca's bowcaster?
Legal. Os dois pesos em forma de bola é para dar o avanço de corte da broca, muito interessante. Como os tempos de hoje estamos encaminhando para uma crise energética este tipo de máquina soluciona um pouco na economia da energia. Veja que é uma ferramenta antiga superada pelas novas tecnologias, porém como já disse ela traz um benefício na redução do consumo de energia elétrica.
Инжиниринг высшего уровня 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hermosa restauración!!!. Yo, lo hubiera pintado en color verde inglés, el negro me parece muy triste.
Perfeita ferramenta , Pena não ter mantido a cor original 🇧🇷🙏
Lo arruino
A cor ficou boa.
That restore with the copper everyone must have been a pain. I'd rather deal with the rust I guess. I thought it was clever how you did some repairs. And nice outcome. Seems kinda sketchy haveing those jawbreakers swinging by your face but I guess that was 1800s. Good job.
It can be used as tapping machine?
I don't think so. Too fast and too little torque.
23:09 некоторые впадины и вмятины на шарах от удара по голове во время сверления)))
Una herramienta muuuuy rara 🤔
Do you have a video of your lathe?
There is no special video about the lathe. At 16:44 most parts of the lathe are visible. It's a relative simple, small an old belt driven lathe made by Lorch around the year 1940. Small enough for my very tiny workshop! And precise enough me. If you like old lathes, I have two other really beautiful lathes (much older, before 1900) that can bee seen in some scenes in previous videos (th-cam.com/video/5f5ehxk1VoU/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/BP0NbmN1MUo/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/O3Jge_Bm9iw/w-d-xo.html).
@@chipsdust7534 really beautiful!
If you have not tossed out the old chuck, a long vinegar bath probably will take off all of the old copper.
you could soak it in a mixture of weak acid and peroxide for a couple days and that will dissolve some (maybe most) of the copper
Thanks! And this will work without corroding the iron?
@@chipsdust7534 citric acid is sometimes used to remove rust, and the peroxide should be fine. as long as you stick to something like 30%, and also cover it up so the peroxide stays in there longer. acid will eventually eat away at steel, but it takes a very long time in weak solution, much longer than the copper
@@briangoldberg4439 That sounds logical. Could be worth a try and not too dangerous für metal I want to keep. Thanks!
An impact driver (either manual or electric) with a modified screwdriver bit would have probably removed the screws holding the balls on without the damage to the screw slots.
I don't think that would have worked. The screws were extremely tight. I suspect that with an impact driver and a modified bit (very thin, but two inches wide), the bit would have bent before the screw moved even a hair's breadth.
I forgot to mention you might try a muriatic acid bath to remove the plating on the other chuck just rinse and inspect it during the process to get the desired result without causing over etching the steel, if you want to keep it this might work, I have used it to remove other platings but not copper it might be worth a try you really have nothing to loose.
Thank you for this suggestion! Yes, for a moment I thought about using muriatic/hydrochloric acid. But two reasons spoke against it. First, I would need quite a large amount of acid and would also have to dispose of it properly afterwards. And second, hydrochloric acid attacks the base metal first. So in the worst case, the acid would attack the substance of the drill before it dissolved the copper. So all in all, I was quite satisfied with the copper coating. True, it caked everything together. But it is also a perfect rust protection. As for the drill chuck, I'll just keep the original along with the machine. Maybe a later owner will have an idea how to disassemble and restore the drill chuck despite the copper bath.
@@chipsdust7534 What about an etchant like Ferric Chloride or Cupric Chloride? Asking for a friend who makes printed circuit boards.
@@SameAsAnyOtherStranger Thanks, good idea! This might indeed remove the copper without damaguig the iron!
Прекрасный аппарат, сделанный на века. Таким приборам свет не нужен. Что актуально в наше военное время.
Тебе нэт
@@СанёкНН чего Нэт?
I wonder how many aprentices have been whacked on the side of the head by those balls?
Indeed! That's possibly why Arnz some years later switched to less dangerous flywheels. They were safer, but didn't offer the possibility of automatic pressure control. And I understand why some users oft the Regulateur painted the balls signal red ...
🫢⚠️
In English, there is an expression, "go balls out." It basically means "go to the max." For example, "he drove his car balls out" means that he drove his car very fast. People think that it is an expression based on human anatomy. It is actually an expression based on machinery, like the one in this video.
Great job! Just be sure not to lean into your work without wearing a hard hat for this one!
👍👍👍 Но покраска деталей краскопультом дало бы изделию более "благородный" вид (хоть это и не соответствует тому времени). Спасибо....
I can feel the antique aficionados cringing. Me, I'm about do what it take to get it in original or better working order.
не ясно к чему здесь нужен центробежный регулятор уатта?
Aren't the centrifugal balls rather dangerous? I'd hate to get hit in the head with those.
Да хрен с ней с дрелью, где купить сверла что не ломаются при таком изгибе.
Danger! Only work with a safety helmet! ⚠️
Обалдеть
Any guesses why this ridiculous design wasn't popular?? 🤣🤣 Skull cracking fun........
фильм киндза дза в россии снимали а запчасти для пепелаца за рубежом делали.
Nice job, but taking a file to the cogs was a very poor decision, all you did was increase the slop.
I did the best I could to remove only the copper. With the copper, the tooth flanks were too tight and operation was very heavy and rough.
Un verdadero restaurador hubiese conservado la patina he intervenido solo en los elementos dañados muy puntualmente esta antigüedad ha perdido su valor esto es una reparación
Gracias por su comentario. En principio, estoy de acuerdo con usted. Tampoco me gustan las restauraciones que se llevan toda la historia, toda la dignidad que una herramienta se ha ganado durante décadas de duro trabajo. Y me gusta conservar la pátina que habla de ella. Pero no en este caso. La pátina no era antigua. Era artificial. Precisamente esta pátina artificial de cobre había destruido toda la pátina antigua y honesta. Es decir, se me permitió quitarlo. Mientras tanto conseguí otro taladro del mismo tipo. Todavía parece que fue desmantelado hace 50 años. Todavía tiene muchos restos de la pintura original. Así que intentaré conservar todo lo que aún es original en la medida de lo posible. Tal vez haga un vídeo al respecto que te guste más.
It's not difficult to see why this design fell out of favor.
It's an accident about to happen every time you use this tool.
@@frankstrawnation😢😢😢😢😢
The I don't need all these teeth model.
Protective sheet would have done the job tho...
meteor hammer......................................???😆😆😆
um its called a bowcaster and its from starwars
Wonder how many teeth they’ve knocked out
А если по зубам надаёт,наверно больно будет...
Зачем ты покрасил её?! Благородная медь была намного круче!!!
Why so "file happy"? restoring isn't always taking away so much material, and certainly not filing away into ovlibion details such as the slots shape in the centrifugal mechanism and machining marks on the faces of the gears. Totally unnecessary.
The slots in the centrifugal mechanism had to be straightened. With all the copper, bent and worn out surfaces, the mechanism would no longer run smoothly and evenly, but only jerkily and irregular.
you have completely damaged the teeth