Audi A6/A7 (C7 & C7.5) 3.0t Supercharger Belt & Serpentine Belt Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- This was done on my 2012 Audi A6 3.0t. It has 150,000 miles, and I have had it since 90,000 miles. This is the first time I have done these belt replacements on this car, and I’m not sure if the previous owner had them changed. Either way it was time to change them. I feel like a good interval to change them is every 75,000 miles.
Links to the belts used: (plug in your specific car on FCP euro to ensure you get the right ones.)
Supercharger Belt - www.fcpeuro.co...
Serpentine Belt - www.fcpeuro.co...
Tools used:
A couple different 5/8 wrenches
Low profile m10 triple square (3/8)
Serpentine belt tool
Torx bits to remove intake pieces
Serpentine belt tool rental: (most auto parts stores have similar programs)
www.oreillyaut...
Fourm links:
www.audiworld....
www.audiworld....
Belt diagram in this link:
www.audiworld....
Great video and thanks, it saved me a ton of work. Per the factory manual, I chose to use pins to hold the 2 tensioners while doing the work. I used (2) 5/32" (I believe) drill bits, instead of the factory tool. A mirror will assist with locating the pin holes for the task. Put the drill bit in the front hole, press on the wrench to release the tension on the belt and push the drill bit the rest of the way in to keep tensioner at bay while you remove and re-install the new belts.
I have performed this task many times. Quick call out for the supercharger belt.... with exception of idler, route the belt on all pulleys, use wrench to pull back on tensioner then the belt easily slips on the idler pulley, relax the tensioner and done. This way you don't have to fight the rib on supercharger pulley.
This process becomes essential if you install supercharger and/or crank pulley upgrades as the those belts are very limited on installation clearance.
So grateful for your video....my alternator belt shredded into spaghetti strings and took out and binded my other belt.... thought I had to rip the front end down like when I had to change my thermostat.....this is a job I can tackle for sure....thanks dude I rock......🙌🙌🙌👏👏👏
💯💯💯💯💪💪🦾🦾
In your video you mention linking a diagram. I can’t find it. Searching others I can’t get the right one. Your video is the same as my engine. My serpentine belt was shredded so I can find how to put it back. Thx.
Super helpful took me longer than expected but definitely worked out on my audi prestige 2012
Video was helpful. 2014 A6- other tips. 1) remove shroud and from underneath and top 2) it’s takes 2 people to get the belts back on 3) serpentine belt - it is easiest to make the last pulley the alternator and be underneath while someone else is on top on tensioner 5) you can remove top shroud and pins for radiator to tilt radiator forward for more working area or move entire radiator forward for lots of space 6) there another guy who has a video on removing the lower shroud if you need that 7) I posted a diagram called 2014 Audi A6 Serpentine belt routing diagram if you need it
gonna be doing this on my s4 soon. great video!
Generally the belts aren't the issue, it's the pulleys that can potentially lock up and cause the belts to fail. That issue is kinda gone now with 2014+ models using the 3.0T
Going to be doing this on my S4 later on this year.. this video will help out hopefully It’s not as difficult as it seems
how did it go mine just broke ?
Great video guide. On the S4, there is barely enough room to get your arms and hands in there. I guess the engine bay on your car gives you another inch or 2 of clearance.
If your having a hard time with the pulley removal try to wiggle the belt as you release the tension off the tensioner
Think that i can remove the upper pulley with out removing the bumper on A7
Thanks for all the links
Great Video, thanks for putting it together. Did you notice that the OEM belt that was on the accessories was labelled 2334 vs 2330mm (The conti belt)? I have the same conti belt and its seems like its 4mm shorter than the OEM. Should not be an issue. I checked the belt tension and it seems fine with the 2330mm belt on. Also other question, putting the supercharger belt on is a PAIN! Did you try sliding it on the idler or the crankshaft pulley instead of the supercharger?
How did the old belts look after replacing them??. I also have a 2012 A6 3.0t with 120k miles and I don't think they have been replaced before, they look old but don't see any cracks or anything wrong..
My supercharger belt recently snapped on me and prior to that there was lots of belt debris around the engine bay. Do you think this might have happened due to a bad tensioner and idler?
When is the time there to replace the tensioners and the other pully's..??
So whats the right part number for the serpentine belt? 6pK2330 or 2334. I would assume thet the 2334 would be easier to install since is longer.
Does this apply for 11 a6 c6?
nice! saved me a couple busted knuckles!
did yours break ? my b8.5 s4 2013 I think both crapped out 126K miles looking to make a follow up video.
Hey, I've been watching your video to replace my serpentine belt. Thank you for uploading. But I am having an issue getting the belt to reach over the last pulley, how did you do it? I loosened the SC idler to get behind it, loosened the tension pulleys but it still feels too tight to pull around the last pulley. Anything I might be doing wrong? I have a 2013 A7
if its still relevant i had to push tensioner way further than i thought, two people helped
Excellent video. I used this to replace the supercharger belt. Now I'm thinking I want to do the serpentine as well. Do you know if you have to take of the SuperCharger belt before you get to the serpentine belt?
Sorry for the late response, but yes you need to take the supercharger belt off to get to it. It only take 2 minutes to take it off
Do you have a routing diagram from this. I’m having troubles with the routing of my belt. Thanks
Hey I followed everything through but my belts keep moving foward like a quarter inch , it won’t stay on track . Any ideas ?
ever end up resolving this issue?
@@sergiomendesvt yea thanks harmonic balancer was messed up all good now , thanks for the belt guide great video!!!
Can't even get the serpentine belt off, nevermind trying to get a new one on. I'm just going to give up and pay a mechanic to do it. The bolt on the tensioner is just about stripped because there's not enough space to get the 5/8" wrench on there properly and so the wrench kept slipping. It requires so much force to push down my hand is in pain. Even pushed down there's no good spot or space to get a 2nd hand down there to help get the belt off. I don't want to spend 8 hours doing this. If I spend the 8 hours at work doing something I'm actually good at, I could pay for it and then some.
Mechanic was going to take 2 weeks to get it in, so I finished it myself. As can be guessed by the time gap, it took about 6 hours, but most of that was because of going out to buy a box wrench to be able to get to the tensioner pulley properly. The job is also SOOO much easier if you get the pins to pop in and hold the tensioners in position. And remove the belly pan from under the car so you can get underneath it, you can remove 2 torx bolts for the coolant lines blocking access to the tensioner pulley and it will be much much easier as well.
How is that belt compared to the OEM
Can you tell us what brand low profile M10 triple square you used? I'm having a hard time finding one. From my measurement, it appears we need something that's only 1 inch tall. The stubby ones I see on Amazon are 1.2" = 1 3/16" which will not give enough space for the serpentine tool. What height is yours?
I used this stubby M10 and it was slightly under 1 inch tall! www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQQ2QL1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I also want to add for other folks that you need to do yourself a favor and LOOK for the pin holes to hold both the accessory and supercharger tensioners. The SC tensioner hole is very easy to see from under the car. For the accessory tensioner, you need to use a mirror from under the car in order to find it. It's better for you to invest the time in finding this than using the time struggling to put the belt on with one hand and the other hand removing tension from the tensioner.
@@K24-SRT yes
I cannot for the life on me get this belt on
Is it possible to do without loosening the idler pulley
no
My q7 is at 60k miles do the belt replacement now? It seems in a good condition
Audi advise the Poly V belt at 60k yeah
Honestly its up to you. It probably doesn't need to be changed, but its pretty cheap and easy to do.
Vacuum pump looks like it’s leaking a tad bit
Around $7 later from here www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-92-x-3mm-price-for-1-pc/ saved me several hundreds with better rubber seal. No need to replace that unit. On European cars, plastic and rubber are first to go. As far as that small seal, us only A/C rubber - the green one and you'll be golden waaay better than the original.
Honestly I'm not familiar where or what that is, can you put a time stamp of what you are talking about. I'd really appreciate it, thanks!
@@ActionSlateFilms Get a clean paper towel and tap it underneath that vacuum pump. If you see clean oil, that means the seal inside the vacuum pump begins to fail to seal engine oil. There are basically 3 seals, one small one for that rubber hose on the left (green A/C seal works great there ), one big one inside the vacuum pump ( this one www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-92-x-3mm-price-for-1-pc/
), and one between vacuum pump and engine, that's normally an audi seal. The leak can be either from that rubber hose (left side of the vacuum pump), the big seal (inside the vacuum pump), or behind the vacuum pump. All which must be checked by cleaning everything and checking every couple days which side of the paper towel gets soaked in engine oil. In my case i just took the whole think out, i went to autozone got a set of green A/C seals, the big seal www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-92-x-3mm-price-for-1-pc/
and reused the original seal between vacuum pump and engine. Regardless, do not use this kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KNTKGT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the large rubber is not THICK enough to properly seal, the www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-92-x-3mm-price-for-1-pc/
is excellent. SO $7 for a/c seal from AutoZone and couple bucks from that big seal and for ~$11 sealed my issue from two years ago.
I mean I guess that is one way to do it. Wouldn’t it be easier to put it in service mode first?
Sure, or you could also take it to the Stealorship.