Tom I have 2 Rifles that shared the same affliction as yours. One a Win, Feather Wt. in 6.5x55 & the other a Ruger early Mod tang safety in 257 Rob. Both wearing 22'' skinny barrels. Both would give hunting accy, out to around 100yds''''barely'''. I worked up loads in batches of 5 with every posible combo for both guns from light to the heavey weights to no avail. Silly as it may sound, Both rifles were very consistant with this grouping issue regardless of load used, such as 2or3 shots an inch or 2 apart with the usual flyer creeping in as the barrel warms up. Just for times sake here I would like to share with you my fix for this , because now both these rifles will shoot the lights out with a variety of bullit weights & powders'''''H-4831S.C. & Varget the preffered. Never being a fan of free floated barrels'''''still not''''' I had to go back to the school of Keith to cure this one. Not only fully bedding both barrels but both actions all the way to rear tang as well. Also installing pillars for the action. & for the final step to complete this time consuming process. A shim at the forend to provide a slight up,push for equal support between front & rear. The result'''' Both rifles will now do their job with cold or hot barrels with a slight edge going to the .257 Bob...You know many of todays younger shooters have much to learn about all the free floated barrel hype being pushed out there as if they just discovered what the real Masters all missed. Fact is focus was more about quality in the days of OcOnnor & Keith than stocking big box stores with budget friendly tupper ware stocked junk.. Closing I,ll just say Im totally aware that some rifles will benifit with a floated barrel, however my findings for wood stocked bolt rifles reject that notion.Some may ask, why do they not properly bed rifles today. Answer''' because its time consuming hands on skill,set work that adds to the cost of building the rifle. Great channel Tom,, thanks, will be back...Cheers from Mid Mo..
Been watching you for a few months love your channel. My dad gave me a new m77 in 02 when I graduated high school. Never carried it shot like crap. I got into reloading and I got several of my rifles to shoot great, but not that one. Dropped it off at a gunsmith Sunday for a shilen barrel
I got talking at the range one day with a fervent reloader. I said I was just trying to find a factory load that performs well on game and also shoots well, then buy a lot of that ammo. He said: "Where's the fun in that?" as he touched one off.
I was bit by the reloading bug about two years ago and I can totally relate. It's very fun/addicting and while the myth that you save money is false you get to shoot 3x as much and make amazing quality ammunition.
Hi Tom.. glad you were able to find some time to get to the range and relax. Not so happy you’re having such a time with your 257. I just watched a video from gunblue490. He has the exact same rifle in same caliber made about the same time 2012 I think he said and it is shooting less than 1/2” at a 100 yards. The one thing I heard that might be different was he said it need 5 business cards clearance in barrel channel that comes out to 50 thousand’s of an inch. I didn’t know if you had seen it. He made it about 4 year’s ago. Worth a look if you haven’t. Good luck with it Tom and thank you for the video’s. Live free and stay safe..
Gunblue cited his load was a 100gr Sierra Matchking for that range trip I think. Don't remember his powder. Not sure of his stock specs and clearance. MY factory trigger is maybe 3+ lbs. He has stated maybe 2.5 I think.
I would suggest trying different seating depths. 5 thousands of an inch plus or minus can make a big difference. It did for me. My 50 year old 30-06 BLD group changed from a 3.0 inch group to a 0.251 by experimenting with seating depth.
Nils that's a little tough to do with the 257 Roberts. I'm .022" off the lands now which is usually my sweet spot but even with the bullet that far out they are still really deep in the case. The crimp ring on the Interlock isn't even visable after I seat the bullet because it's so deep. My guess is the chambers are cut shallower on 257 Roberts than 25-06 and most 25 cal bullets now are probably designed for the 25-06? It's going to be tough for me to back off much more.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving I appreciate answering my comments. I'm not familiar with. 257 Robert's. It was a suggestion that worked wonders for me. Another procedure I did was neck turning the brass. I also had great accuracy with Barnes TTSX bullets. Good luck my friend.
Since just recently binge watching your videos after the first one i watched, no kidding at all, i was questioning the interesting accurate rifles. Great work, thank you.
I own a Remington Mod 700 Mountain Rifle in .257 Roberts and I've used factory ammo and my own handloads. I like using heavier bullets like the 120 gr. Nosler Partitions but I've used Partitions in 115 grainers and 110. My best accuracy?....it's hard to tell because it seems my Roberts will shoot them all well but I've never been able to get much under 1.25" groups at 100 yards with any of them. That kind of accuracy won't make anyone jump up with joy but last week I shot a doe at roughly 225 yards and hit her, from what I could tell exactly where my crosshairs were placed. Go fig? I live in the Deep South and my shots are normally taken in the woods at ranges under 80 yards, tops. Oddly enough my rifle loves Federal 120 grain loads; they're pricey but I usually only have to shoot once. The best part is I have only lost one animal I shot and I'm not completely certain that I hit her. After checking, I found where my bullet had slammed into a 2.5" vine and there was no blood or hair. But, I did kill a doe that was standing next to her with my second shot. I'm getting older now and I have some health issues so I don't get out as much as I would like but I have just loved my Roberts since it first appeared in the early-mid 1990s (I think). Properly loaded it's more than enough gun for any game animal except dangerous game like large bears. Like any other rifle of any power, shot placement is what kills and everyone knows that. I wish I could have another 25-30 years with my rifle. As an aside, I know a girl who is about 5' 2" and might weigh 100 lbs soaking wet. She loves to hunt and she has killed all manner of hogs and large deer with her 7x57. It too is one of the finest calibers for hunting in America.
i have that same model 70 featherweight in 257 roberts --every time the weather or humidity changed so would the point of impact,sometimes a lot--took it to a very good professional gun smith and had him glass bed the stock with aluminum pillars and free floated barrel--fixed the accuracy problem completely
I never shot good groups with a featherweight unless I held the fore end. I found them wanting to jump and holding the fore end tightened up my groups. Thanks for the video.
Musky Hunter if you get a chance to watch my video on "Learning to Drive a Rifle" it gets into what your're talking about here. And it is amazing the difference weight makes and the XTR in 257 Roberts in this video is 1/2 a pound lighter than any of my other Featherweights and jumps more than any of them.
Tom, Is there a screw in the front of the trigger guard? Also is there a floating magazine box in either of these rifles? If so, I believe I know what's going on here. Please let me know!
I own a 7x57 rifle and it is a great cartridge. I consider it one of my great oversights in life that I don't own a .257 Roberts chambered rifle. But I do own a .250 Savage rifle and it is outstanding! I consider it a better choice than the .243 (which I also own) for either deer or varmints/predators. The .257 Roberts is everything the .250 Savage is...and then some.
Dude sounds like " Huckleberry Hound", but so very learned. Spot on with the facts, as I try to be, with 51 years of hard shooting under my belt. Blessed are the ones to speak the truth.
Tom, I have the same 2012/3 Featherweight 7x57 that’s completely stock; it shoots a 3-leaf clover at 100yds that can be covered by a quarter. My secret is PPU 139g Rifle Line ammo in the blue box. It outshines any hand loads I’ve tried. The rifle shoots okay with Federal and Hornady but loves the PPU… I’m really pleased because it’s the cheapest of the three! Anyways, try the PPU!
Sounds like your luck with the 139 grain PPU loads has been better than mine. I usually get about 1-1.5 MOA out of my 7x57, which is a 1/2-3/4 MOA gun with handloads.
With the.257 , if you are unable to find best load , lap and crown the barrel . Lap the rings on the scope if you haven't already. You have nothing to loose. Might work.
I am working on improving my new Howa 1500 Walnut. Right out of the box the barrel touches the stock. Howa will replace the stock, but I am planning to bed the action anyway so I plan to fix it myself. What happens if you take too much material from the bore channel is there reproductions? I like your videos and your system for dialing a rifle and ammunition in. I have a friend that insist that I use 165 grain bulls for my 30-06, I like your approach to letting the accuracy of the rifle determine the bullet weight. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Odd, this video features my two favorite rifle calibers. The two runners up are 6.5x54mm Mannlicher-Schoenauer and 6.5x53.5sr mm. I'm old. I'm too fragile to be abused by larger rifles.
Ever think about adding small incremental pressure pads under the front of the barrel / stock? I always hear that those thin barrels do well with a small out of barrel pressure at the forend tip. Love your videos thanks for sharing
I have the same model of rifle in .257 that he has in the video and find your statement to be absolutely correct. Mine shoots well with a pressure point near the fore end tip , but is still sensitive to pressure on the fore end when shooting off a rest. For deer I shoot a Sierra 117 gr boat tail pushed by A charge of IMR-7828. I’ve also used the Sierra 100 gr and IMR-4064 on deer with good results.
@@davidzakrzewicz707 oh yea need tp learn remedies with limited resources in field...once,you rifle starts throwing rounds in radial dispersion there are things to try in field before going home
Tom, I subscribed to a channel called VA Meat Hunter and he has a great collection of deer rifles. One didn't shoot so well, so he put one of those round harmonics dampening devices on his barrel and that sucker automatically shot < 1 MOA. Just a thought.
love watching your journey. been there done that many many times. A crown problem can usually be seen with the naked eye. i have to agree with the other guy about the clearance being to close or not enough. start with 1 powder 1 bullet and work you way up. if no results go to a different bullet or powder but never both! remember when hunting your first shot is the one you want in the same place every time period. 2 touching and a flyer is always you or heat. good luck and thank you
Tom I know the feeling I have two cheap ar15s one in 223wielde the other in 7.62x39 that consistently shoot less than moa with almost any load with 4x magnification. Than I struggle to get my high dollar lightweight bolt gun to do as well.
Is that 257 a long action? If it were mine take to a gunsmith and check and see if action/barrel look ok. A rebarrel with fast twist would be interesting.
Interesting video, I enjoy target shooting maybe later deer hunting. I have a OLD MAUSER that is PRE WWII with some interesting features you may like. It has a KRUPP BARREL (hexagon shape at the receiver and FULL length raised rib with express sights), spoon bolt handle, twin set triggers. The serial numbers match (barrel to receiver to mag well to bolt to gas shield and trigger assembly. Oh it 7X57 Mauser and since you were working on a 7mm Mauser I thought you might be interested. Was yours a Winchester Model 70? Thats what it looked like. Unfortunately my Mauser has a BEAUTIFUL MODERN STOCK not the original one.😳😵💫😡😮💨. It's a NEAT RIFLE that would be VERY EXPENSIVE if to be built NOW especially because of the barrel how it was made, a LOT of MACHINING which would be expensive. Tell me what you think? 🤔😁👍
Tom, I enjoy your honest journey to get rifles to shoot better. I was watching your front rest rocking to the right when you fired the rifles. What do you think could causing a sideways movement? Could the boards under the rear rest be contacting something causing the sideways movement?
Kevin, what causes that is me. I have always had a tendency to have the rifle go to the right on recoil and if you look at some of my other videos when I'm shooting you will often see the rifle land on the right hand side of the rest when it comes down and I have to move it back to the left to put it back in the channel. On that specific group I changed my angle slightly behind the rifle so that I wasn't as square to the rifle and noticed that as soon as I made that change the rest kicked right. And what causes that is when my shoulder goes back it's not going straight back. It's more of an arc around my body like joints tend to do. So my shoulder is going behind me, that opens up my right arm and hand that's holding the rifle, and then my cheek acts like a fulcrum on the side of the stock and the barrel goes right. And then that gets into everything I talked about in learning to drive a rifle and why I need to keep everything connected. In that instance the rifle didn't jump as high but it definitely moved the rest. And the rest of the shots in that group were similar because once I opened up my body a little I had to stick with it to keep everything consistent with the rest of the shots. Good eye spotting that! And I was debating whether or not to mention that in the video but I was worried I might be getting into to many details for a lot of people? It's always a tough call for me to know when to get into something like that.
Also the two cartridges that I know of like it really hot and really fast is 270 + 257 Roberts me to push the powder charge up as fast as you can make it they don't like to go slow
I am tuning in a rifle I had built. I found a good Ruger m/77 action and had a shilen barrel installed. I had the barrel stamped .275 Rigby. My desire is to tune in 154 grain bullets for it. At my current load I have an average muzzle velocity of 2758 fps. I plan to stick with the same bullet and go to different loads until I find the "pet load" for that bullet. I believe the rifle is a much better shooter than I am. I had hoped for a control feed action like the Hawkeye but the original M77 was a push feed but works well. Actions are expensive. I did not know before acquiring the rifle that Ruger has torque specs for the stock screws. One of which is pretty high. Good luck with that .257. It should hold much better groups than I saw on this video. Of course I can say that while sitting here at my computer.
I too am working up a load with Hornady 154gr soft points in one of my 7x57's. My first test ladder will be 35-40 grains of IMR 4350, seated at 3.000". The last couple months in north Texas have been too hot to go out to the range, but Fall is arriving and we'll see how it goes.
Luvta Handload I've been playing with the screws a little bit but it's tricky with the older models like the XTR. It still has 3 screws in the bottom instead of 2 like the new ones and the middle and rear screw need to be on loose side. They actually left them so loose that everyone used to put lock tight on them to keep them from coming out and the reason for that is because of how the trigger guard is made. And the front one I only go so tight with it because it's a slotted screw. I could replace it with torque screw but I don't see any reason I can't get it to shoot with the original screws?
Regarding the tightness on the stock,I’ve seen it mentioned that the front screw should be set to 90”lbs (I find this difficult to believe) because of the angle the bolt enters the action and the rear bolt should be set around 40”lbs with the center simply snugged. I’d have no idea as to how or what could be used for 90”lbs, but I’d most certainly wouldn’t attempt it with the slotted bolt. I’m not recommending you do this,just letting you in on what I read. Btw, I’ve been fighting the same problem as you for quite some time now. Good luck.
Love the 257 Roberts! My Ruger Mark II did the exact same thing. I also had removed the fore end pressure and glass bedded my stock....no improvement. After hundreds of frustrating rounds, I did the very old trick of adding 2-4 wraps of electrical tape around my barrel about 2 inches from the end of the stock. Problem solved....most powder/bullet combos are well under an inch. Some barrels just need that upward pressure for barrel harmonics. Hope this helps.
It's funny how something like that can really change how a rifle shoots! I haven't tried that yet but I will at some point in the not to distant future. With that said I did finally get some good groups out of it but it was with 90gr bullets. The problem is I don't want to hunt with 90 grainers.
Mid charges of IMR 4350 and 100gr Speer BTSP has given me consistent 1/2 to 3/4" groups with my barrel bandaid. I've got a box of the 120 grainers that I've yet to try. I think I'll see what you come up with. Good luck! Also, have you tried adjusting the amount of torque pressure on your action screws? @@TomRiverSimpleLiving
I have the same 257 rifle as you do. I have had mine a long time and now it sits in my safe all the time. After trying to get it to shoot better than 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups for years i finally gave up
Gary, I have 2 different Featherweights in 257 Roberts. One is this one, a 1982 XTR and the other is 2012. The 2012 is the same as the one Gun Blue is shooting and my accuracy is horrible but I'm pretty sure I figured out why. The lands are uneven where they start in the chamber. As for the XTR, I have no clue why this one doesn't shoot great but I'm going to keep trying to figure it out! And I did un Blue's video on that and I have no doubt that his shoots great. And I also noticed the 2012 like his is a 1/2 pound heavier than the XTR and I think that little bit of extra weight helps?
Tom I don't know, but sometimes I think the ultra/feather lite rifles may have accuracy problems due to vibration/ harmonics in the barrel and receiver. What do you think?
@@edwardabrams4972 I have a 303 jungle carbine and accuracy problems was liked to removing to much metal from the receiver. But who knows ,Enfield's have many ways of losing accuracy.
Alexander that's a really great question and honestly I don't have answer. The 7x57 is also a Featherweight but it has a much heavier stock on it that adds about 1lb and for me the overall weight of the rifle seems to make more of a difference than the weight of the barrel and action? My pre 64 in 270 shoots great even without the barrel being free floated even though I think it would shoot even better if it were. But after a few other comments suggesting I try one of those rubber harmonic stabilizers on the barrel were going to see. If that causes this rifle to start shooting then the problem would seem to be the harmonics? It's going to be a while before I get back to it but that's the next step in this process.
I have a friend who built himself a 25-06 years ago. He has taken dozens of elk, moose, bear, dear, and antelope with it over the years. He told me that he could never get the heavier 117 and 120 gr bullets to group very well. His favorite bullet was the 100 gr partition. I've had a number of 257 Roberts rifles, still have two, a pre 64 model 70 and a new south Carolina model 70 featherweight. I have had problems with the heavier bullets too, and have much better luck with 100 and 110 gr bullets. My featherweight will do decent with the hornady superformance 117 gr load but sprayes 120 gr partitions over the target. 110 accubonds group tightly. My pre 64 groups the 110 accubonds very well and has always shot well with 100 gr bullets. The 100 gr Silvertip was my Dads favorite in the rifle when he owned it.
Yup.....fellas up here seem to be trending towards high quality 85 90 grain bullets,in .243 and 99 and 100 gainers in .250s......they back up their choices with greeeeat. Field reports on recent hunts
Heard story about this farmer.......way he sights in his hunting rifle........takes with him 9n tractor and fires one shot each morning, at target he set up at edge of field....he said that's about as clock as he can get to gunting,conditions........ one shot is all you need after,that you just shooting up landscape or ruining, meat
My 25-06 build (just a 24 inch barrel instead of the factory 22 in.) and timney trigger) shoots 100-115 gr great. 117s at 1.06in. 120s are just okay at maybe 1 1/2 MOA for factory Core Lokt
Tom ,,in the seventies I owned many different calibers of rifles and loaded for them all ,,one of the first things I learned about different calibers was that I was restricted in accuracy reports by the brass available for the caliber for instance, I had many different 308 Winchesters and with the same loads , brass , primer , powder and bullet , all of those rifles would shoot the same one inch groups and then I bought a thousand IMI match brass ,,those brass alone cut the group sizes in half on every rifle.
I just subscribed to your channel and apologize if this has been covered, is the twist too slow to stabilize the heavier bullets in the 257 Roberts? Maybe try some 100 grain bullets in it?
Really enjoy your videos Tom, you did great bedding those rifles. I really hope you get that 257 dialed in. Question on your 7x57, have you tried the heavier bullets in it? I had a 275 rigby which as you know is a 7x57 just the British name for it. It definitely showed a preference for heavy bullets. The 160 Speer hot-cor with H4350 was a very good load for me. I don’t know what load specs your using, but I loaded mine to modern pressures which it pretty easily outruns the 7mm08 with modern loads for modern rifles due to more case capacity. Just thought I’d see if you have tried the heavier bullets in yours yet. And I really hope you get that 257 dialed in. It’s hard to beat a model 70, just beautiful great feeling rifles. I have one in 416 Remington magnum that averages slightly less than 3/4” with multiple loads. Kicks like a mule on the bench but it’s worth it lol.
Can't speak for Tom but I loaded up some 175 gr Speer Grand Slams for my 2013 7X57 Featherweight. I have had sub MOA group with 145s but not consistent MOA or less. Always seems to put two close and a flyer.
Sir on the 80s Bob. Been around 2 n still am both Tach Drivers. 120gr Partitions with IMR 4831 110 AB with 6.5 Staball. Both also have the factory pressure point in front end of forearm. 1 was glass bedded as you mentioned. The other as it came. Ya might want to tray putting that pressure point back. About 3 inches long at front of forend. Just a thought .
instead of a full barrel channel bed you might try the Weatherby method and only put a pressure point at the tip of the fore end. I have several vanguards in their factory stocks that have one pressure point and all shoot well with handloads.
I have the same Winchester Model 70 Featherweight, .257 Roberts that you have. I shoot about 1½ inch groups, and the rifles been glassed and piller beded. It's been working well on game these past years, but it's definitely not a tack driver.
I have watched the one video on your pre 64 Model 70. I really enjoyed it and your honesty impressed me. I'm giving you a sub and I am glad to know you are continuing more videos. I will be a regular. I'm not going to tell you this or that you know what your doing , that's obvious. I would like to know what what your problems if and when are and your findings. I love talking , listening and learning anything gun / shooting related. I quit hunting years ago but enjoy target shooting and all evolved there. Good luck and great shooting. Wanted to add , you have got some really fine rifles. Some collect expensive art. Your shooting my Rembrandts. Love that 257 R . 7 x 57 Granddaddy of all. Great calibers both .
so Maybe when you get close play with seating depth, then adjust powders, you took on so many variables at once ... it made me nervous, but well done and keeping after it
Sometimes the rifle teaches us it's a mystery that we as shooter's have to figure out but when it all comes together the rewards are greatly appreciated by what we have accomplished that 257 is making u work for the best she can be.
That .257 is all over the place.... have you checked the crown? I found the 139gr Hornady a very accurate choice for the 7 x 57.... mine used to shoot sub MoA at about 2970fps with that 139gr load....
I bought one of the first model 70 XTR featherweight rifles, back around 1980 or so, in 7x57. At the time, to me, it was the ideal deer rifle and cartridge, except a 3 inch group was the best I could get it to do. My opinion of it soured quite a bit and it went down the road. Over the years, I have had a number of 7x57's, but none of them endeared themselves to me. I haven't had a 7x57 in awhile now, a 7mm-08 seems to make a lot more sense these days, but maybe if I find just the right rifle, I might one day again try another 7x57.
As a long time fan of the 7x57 it saddens me that you had bad luck with the Winchester. I have two .284 caliber rifles one 7x57 and one .275 Rigby. Both of mine are custom even though my old 7x57 is nothing fancy to look at. I have spent many years loading for those rifles and they both shoot quite well and are used for different things so I use different loadings in each. A 7mm08 would be a nice choice. I believe I would rather have it than the parent .308 but that's my opinion. The ballistics of the 7mm08 almost mirror the 7x57.
Thanks for taking us along. I was much more frustrated than you when my .257 ruger hawkeye had accuracy issues (kinda had a mind of its own), but finally found a load and torqued the dang stock to 90inLBS! (factory recommended that) and she shoot straight now. You are so correct about "inaccurate" rifles being more interesting, because they challenge us and mess with our emotions. Have you tried the 100 gr Hotcores with h4350. mine love em.
Good prior comments. I've noticed alot of rifleman have inaccuracy because they don't dial the parallax out of their scopes. Recently I help a friend with a sportorized 03 A3 with a beautiful Leopold 4-12 scope. He had the parallax set at 200 yrds. When I checked it it had probably 3-5" of parallax. We adjusted the parallax adjustment until we dialed it out. Boom, sub moa groups. On some scopes you have to do it with the eye piece. The problem is you may lose clarity in the reticle. Only solution then is change scopes out. Good luck Tom
I have a pushfeed mdl 70 in 7x57 that would shoot 1.5 with various loads. I had it rechambered to 7x57 AI and had Hornaday make some custom dies. I'm getting .6", 3 shot groups with 140gr. CX's. Seems like the chamber just needed to be cleaned up.
On your 257 Featherweight XTR - did you try putting some upward pressure at the tip of the stock? try putting two business cards just to test if it likes some upward pressure at the tip of the stock. I had that same gun in 7x57 and I kick myself for selling it
Bill I definitely need to make some improvements there but everything felt pretty solid on the bench. But I will have that fixed before the next range trip. I got measurement on that trip to see exactly what height I need to cut a block to or build a platform.
When a person does decide to give up on a rifle and 'move it along' should that person indicate to the prospective buyer the reasons you are getting rid of it? I've never sold a rifle but have bought one online with excellent results. I wouldn't feel right selling a rifle that I couldn't get to shoot without full disclosure.
Why is my 7mm 08 as nice as the "xtr" but is only a "SA" i always wondered what made the "xtr" actually extra? My feathweight xtr has a far less nice stock...seems odd
My Ruger 77 absolutely hates the heavy loads (117/120) but cloverleaf's are common with 100 gr. Nosler ballistic tips and 87gr. Gamekings. Please consider the lighter loading.
Tom change the trigger you know you want to. All that work you know you want to put a better trigger in it. I'm thinking the trigger is not breaking consistently. You can check it with a trigger gauge.
I had a 1980 ish 257 feather weight went through 5lbs of different powder and bullets changed stock bed it free float it finally ran across an article that said featherweight barrels needed up pressure on the forend bingo shot 1" groups was about to trade it in
I bought 280 REM featherweight in 2018 right before they stopped chambering the round. It’s been very accurate. I wonder if they finally corrected stock issues? Mine came glass bedded and free floated. I’m in CA and we have to shoot copper for hunting. Barnes bullets are always very accurate but it shoots well with federal blue box lead too. A recently added Timney trigger really helped overall accuracy too.
I feel for you mate. Have you "opened up" the bedding as shown at 3m 52s? Yours is in contact at the sides and the rear of the tang wheareas my M70 has had that sort of contact removed. Only the underside of the action makes contact with the epoxy at the tang. This involves a lot of "relieving" with a sharp tool. Ditto at the front of the action; no side contact and the bottom, front and sides of the recoil lug are also relieved. Good luck mate. My M70 is a 30/06😄😄
You might want to try some 175s, THE bullet the cartridge was built for. They've proven themselves over the years. You can hunt virtually anything on the planet with that, given your ability to " dot the eye" with them . Great good luck, mystro!
I was thinking the same thing about the crown on the 257 bob. Also try putting some business cards under the forearm to create a pressure point before full length bedding. Also maybe have the lugs lapped and the face of the bolt trued up. my 2¢ is worth exactly what you paid for them. Good luck I enjoy watching the progression.
I had to laugh when you said that the in-accurate rifles are more interesting…. I do the same thing! when i have them shooting great they get put away in the safe and i start looking for a new project.. Kinda like you …. my newest project is a Winchester model 70 featherweight but mine is chambered in .264 winchester magnum.. I have bedded it and crowned the barrel with a recessed target crown …. changed the scope out.. and i’ve tried several bullets.. but all the bullets have all been non lead since i want to hunt with it in california .. i’m just wanting it to shoot 3/4 minute groups at a respectable velocity but haven’t got there yet.. I have another 4 test loads for it to hopefully shoot for group this weekend…. if it fails me again i’m gonna seriously consider a new barrel.. primers are too hard to come by to waste on a rifle that won’t shoot… just a note on skinny barrels…. i have 2 remington mountain rifles right now which barrels are much thinner that the featherweight barrel and both of those remington’s shoot great! they will both easily shoot 3/4 moa or better any given day and sub 1/2” on occasion.. both free floated and bedded.. one is a .270 and the other one is a 7-08 … love your channel! keep up the good work!
Try some Sierra prohunters in both guns. They are extremely forgiving bullets in every gun I’ve tried. If a rifle won’t shoot a prohunter or a gameking it won’t shoot.
Sometimes rifles can really create problems! I have 5 in the shop right now for barrels and stocks on some old Husqvarna rifles and Interarms rifles and they all shot good I just wanted different calibers that I don’t already own! I am restocking some of them too and rebluing and putting limbsaver pads on some. I found it’s best to never take more then 2 to the range at a time. I have 3 Sako’s that all shoot 1/2” inch with factory loads even though I reload. I have some pre64’s that all shoot an inch MOA or less but they required handloading to get them there. Great video my friend and hang in there! It reminds me of a book called the “The good earth” which says “Thee ox is slow but the earth is patient” looking forward to seeing more next week!
Hmmm. I’m watching the videos you’ve produced I’m not sure I would be hanging on to these. In my experience with Featherweights it’s kinda of a hit n miss thing. Some are okay and others just don’t seem to like anything. They are beautiful rifles though.
Couldn't hurt to put a temporary pressure pad in that stock and see if it calms down to whip in the barrel. If it doesn't work, you didn't waste alot of time. JMOYMMV
I've had good luck bedding under the chamber area, another few inches in front of the receiver. 3-4".. Also, as you mentioned, have a close look at the muzzle.
Before you bed the entire barrel lenght only bed the chamber area. All my hunting rifles with light weight barrels and thin fore ends is bedded in such a manner. I've never seen a muzzle crown effect accuracy much.
Try a bullet lighter than 100 grains. I'll bet a 90 grain bullet will show you some improved groups. It's been my experience with the .257 Roberts. Thanks for sharing. God Bless.
Don't have a .257, but after I try some 175 gr with IMR-4350 in the 7X57 I have I'll let you know what it does I may try one or two more things to see what's causing it to throw flyers. Hopefully just the increased torque on the actions crews has helped. That hump of bedding right in front of my recoil lug bugs me, even if it is right at the chamber area. Right now I just need to get to the range. For the life of me I can't see why your .257s aren't shooting into one hole. They should be sub in inch all day with anything under 115 grain, I would think.
Still enjoying watching you work to figure it out. I can't wait to see it when it all comes together, but then you'll have a boring rifle. 😉 Thanks for sharing as always.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Don't let it do to you what Moby did to Ahab. You win this battle and show that Whale who's boss. LOL. I'm just hoping my little 30-06 project doesn't turn into an Albatross.
I would hate to see you bed the entire channel of that rifle. I had accuracy issues with my .257 Roberts shooting heavy bullets to. I would try lighter bullets (87gr-100gr) and see what happens.
I had a 270 Win. that would shoot only flat base bullets, not sure if any of those were, also, my 25-06 only likes max loads at least for breaking paper.
I'd be curious to see what a lightweight barnes would do going fast out of that 257. It seems like everything you have tried has been on the heavy conservative end
I have a winchester 70 super grade that shoots just over 1/2 moa with the barnes 80 gr. ttsx @ over 3500 fps and it shoots sub moa with 101 LRX but only at about 3100 fps.. . it opens up when i speed it up with the 101…. I use the 80 gr. load.. i’ll kill anything that i’d shoot with that rifle..
I agree, I have the same '81 year model 70 xtr in 257 Roberts and I wouldn't shoot anything under 3" right at 3" with everything I tried. Bought the 80gr Barnes ttsx and worked up a load and now the holes are touching each other, when I'm on my A game but 3/4" is what she will do all the time now. Took me awhile as my grandpa had given me the rifle I couldn't believe this beautiful rifle at first wouldn't shoot but with a little work, free float and glass bed and the right bullet it's a laser. Should have years of pure enjoyment out of it now
@@nickp941 i also have a friend that has a kimber 84m in .257 roberts that also shoots great with that 80 gr ttsx.. the last time i saw him checking zero with it he had 3 shots touching right above the bullseye….at 3550 fps if i remember correctly.. i don’t think he’s tried any other bullet in his.. it shot great and he stuck with it!
That great! I'm glad I tried a lighter bullet. And you are right I would have no problem shooting at anything I want to kill. The deer I shot with that bullet combo this last hunting season dropped where it was standing. The only problem I'm having is finding more 80gr Barnes bullets... Fairy dust
I have a 1981 Ruger #1B in 257 Robert’s that absolutely loves to shoot 1/2” groups with Barnes 100 gr TSX and 101 gr LRX’s. I’ve yet to find a rifle that won’t shoot great with Barnes Bullets.
I can't remember if you checked for copper fouling or not. I have worked on 3 rifles that have had similar problems. After hoppes 9 and a lot of jb bore paste, all shoot sub moa.
I didn't mention it in the video but I did check Travis. And I did a pretty good cleaning on the XTR. It wasn't bad but I wanted to start with a clean bore. And I was surprised at just how good the bore looks on the XTR. It almost looks new.
Tom I have 2 Rifles that shared the same affliction as yours. One a Win, Feather Wt. in 6.5x55 & the other a Ruger early Mod tang safety in 257 Rob. Both wearing 22'' skinny barrels. Both would give hunting accy, out to around 100yds''''barely'''. I worked up loads in batches of 5 with every posible combo for both guns from light to the heavey weights to no avail. Silly as it may sound, Both rifles were very consistant with this grouping issue regardless of load used, such as 2or3 shots an inch or 2 apart with the usual flyer creeping in as the barrel warms up. Just for times sake here I would like to share with you my fix for this , because now both these rifles will shoot the lights out with a variety of bullit weights & powders'''''H-4831S.C. & Varget the preffered. Never being a fan of free floated barrels'''''still not''''' I had to go back to the school of Keith to cure this one. Not only fully bedding both barrels but both actions all the way to rear tang as well. Also installing pillars for the action. & for the final step to complete this time consuming process. A shim at the forend to provide a slight up,push for equal support between front & rear. The result'''' Both rifles will now do their job with cold or hot barrels with a slight edge going to the .257 Bob...You know many of todays younger shooters have much to learn about all the free floated barrel hype being pushed out there as if they just discovered what the real Masters all missed. Fact is focus was more about quality in the days of OcOnnor & Keith than stocking big box stores with budget friendly tupper ware stocked junk.. Closing I,ll just say Im totally aware that some rifles will benifit with a floated barrel, however my findings for wood stocked bolt rifles reject that notion.Some may ask, why do they not properly bed rifles today. Answer''' because its time consuming hands on skill,set work that adds to the cost of building the rifle. Great channel Tom,, thanks, will be back...Cheers from Mid Mo..
Give me a 7mm Mauser any time.
They've proven themselves.
Light recoil, crazy accurate, and just an all round cowboy.
The 7 Mauser for me!
Been watching you for a few months love your channel. My dad gave me a new m77 in 02 when I graduated high school. Never carried it shot like crap. I got into reloading and I got several of my rifles to shoot great, but not that one. Dropped it off at a gunsmith Sunday for a shilen barrel
We learn as you learn. Thank you for taking us along. Great video's.
I got talking at the range one day with a fervent reloader. I said I was just trying to find a factory load that performs well on game and also shoots well, then buy a lot of that ammo. He said: "Where's the fun in that?" as he touched one off.
I was bit by the reloading bug about two years ago and I can totally relate. It's very fun/addicting and while the myth that you save money is false you get to shoot 3x as much and make amazing quality ammunition.
i like your "inaccurate rifle" philosophy , i dont like giving up on things just because its hard or difficult to sort out. nice rifles both of them
Hi Tom.. glad you were able to find some time to get to the range and relax. Not so happy you’re having such a time with your 257. I just watched a video from gunblue490. He has the exact same rifle in same caliber made about the same time 2012 I think he said and it is shooting less than 1/2” at a 100 yards. The one thing I heard that might be different was he said it need 5 business cards clearance in barrel channel that comes out to 50 thousand’s of an inch. I didn’t know if you had seen it. He made it about 4 year’s ago. Worth a look if you haven’t. Good luck with it Tom and thank you for the video’s. Live free and stay safe..
Gunblue cited his load was a 100gr Sierra Matchking for that range trip I think. Don't remember his powder. Not sure of his stock specs and clearance. MY factory trigger is maybe 3+ lbs. He has stated maybe 2.5 I think.
I would suggest trying different seating depths. 5 thousands of an inch plus or minus can make a big difference. It did for me. My 50 year old 30-06 BLD group changed from a 3.0 inch group to a 0.251 by experimenting with seating depth.
Nils that's a little tough to do with the 257 Roberts. I'm .022" off the lands now which is usually my sweet spot but even with the bullet that far out they are still really deep in the case. The crimp ring on the Interlock isn't even visable after I seat the bullet because it's so deep. My guess is the chambers are cut shallower on 257 Roberts than 25-06 and most 25 cal bullets now are probably designed for the 25-06? It's going to be tough for me to back off much more.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving I appreciate answering my comments. I'm not familiar with. 257 Robert's. It was a suggestion that worked wonders for me. Another procedure I did was neck turning the brass. I also had great accuracy with Barnes TTSX bullets. Good luck my friend.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving try varget powder
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving I'm getting into reloading got everything I need but how do I set the seating die to crimp on the cannelure
Since just recently binge watching your videos after the first one i watched, no kidding at all, i was questioning the interesting accurate rifles. Great work, thank you.
I own a Remington Mod 700 Mountain Rifle in .257 Roberts and I've used factory ammo and my own handloads. I like using heavier bullets like the 120 gr. Nosler Partitions but I've used Partitions in 115 grainers and 110. My best accuracy?....it's hard to tell because it seems my Roberts will shoot them all well but I've never been able to get much under 1.25" groups at 100 yards with any of them. That kind of accuracy won't make anyone jump up with joy but last week I shot a doe at roughly 225 yards and hit her, from what I could tell exactly where my crosshairs were placed. Go fig?
I live in the Deep South and my shots are normally taken in the woods at ranges under 80 yards, tops. Oddly enough my rifle loves Federal 120 grain loads; they're pricey but I usually only have to shoot once. The best part is I have only lost one animal I shot and I'm not completely certain that I hit her. After checking, I found where my bullet had slammed into a 2.5" vine and there was no blood or hair. But, I did kill a doe that was standing next to her with my second shot.
I'm getting older now and I have some health issues so I don't get out as much as I would like but I have just loved my Roberts since it first appeared in the early-mid 1990s (I think). Properly loaded it's more than enough gun for any game animal except dangerous game like large bears. Like any other rifle of any power, shot placement is what kills and everyone knows that. I wish I could have another 25-30 years with my rifle.
As an aside, I know a girl who is about 5' 2" and might weigh 100 lbs soaking wet. She loves to hunt and she has killed all manner of hogs and large deer with her 7x57. It too is one of the finest calibers for hunting in America.
i have that same model 70 featherweight in 257 roberts --every time the weather or humidity changed so would the point of impact,sometimes a lot--took it to a very good professional gun smith and had him glass bed the stock with aluminum pillars and free floated barrel--fixed the accuracy problem completely
I never shot good groups with a featherweight unless I held the fore end. I found them wanting to jump and holding the fore end tightened up my groups. Thanks for the video.
Musky Hunter if you get a chance to watch my video on "Learning to Drive a Rifle" it gets into what your're talking about here. And it is amazing the difference weight makes and the XTR in 257 Roberts in this video is 1/2 a pound lighter than any of my other Featherweights and jumps more than any of them.
What's wrong with Husqvarna vapenfabrik?? I have one in 8mm and it's a tack driver???
Tom, Is there a screw in the front of the trigger guard? Also is there a floating magazine box in either of these rifles? If so, I believe I know what's going on here. Please let me know!
I own a 7x57 rifle and it is a great cartridge.
I consider it one of my great oversights in life that I don't own a .257 Roberts chambered rifle. But I do own a .250 Savage rifle and it is outstanding! I consider it a better choice than the .243 (which I also own) for either deer or varmints/predators.
The .257 Roberts is everything the .250 Savage is...and then some.
The wonderful world of reloading always exciting and interesting don’t ever give up
Dude sounds like " Huckleberry Hound", but so very learned.
Spot on with the facts, as I try to be, with
51 years of hard shooting under my belt.
Blessed are the ones to speak the truth.
Tom, I have the same 2012/3 Featherweight 7x57 that’s completely stock; it shoots a 3-leaf clover at 100yds that can be covered by a quarter. My secret is PPU 139g Rifle Line ammo in the blue box. It outshines any hand loads I’ve tried. The rifle shoots okay with Federal and Hornady but loves the PPU… I’m really pleased because it’s the cheapest of the three! Anyways, try the PPU!
PPU is good stuff.
Sounds like your luck with the 139 grain PPU loads has been better than mine. I usually get about 1-1.5 MOA out of my 7x57, which is a 1/2-3/4 MOA gun with handloads.
With the.257 , if you are unable to find best load , lap and crown the barrel . Lap the rings on the scope if you haven't already. You have nothing to loose. Might work.
I am working on improving my new Howa 1500 Walnut. Right out of the box the barrel touches the stock. Howa will replace the stock, but I am planning to bed the action anyway so I plan to fix it myself.
What happens if you take too much material from the bore channel is there reproductions?
I like your videos and your system for dialing a rifle and ammunition in. I have a friend that insist that I use 165 grain bulls for my 30-06, I like your approach to letting the accuracy of the rifle determine the bullet weight.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Odd, this video features my two favorite rifle calibers. The two runners up are 6.5x54mm Mannlicher-Schoenauer and 6.5x53.5sr mm.
I'm old. I'm too fragile to be abused by larger rifles.
I admire your optimism!
Ever think about adding small incremental pressure pads under the front of the barrel / stock? I always hear that those thin barrels do well with a small out of barrel pressure at the forend tip. Love your videos thanks for sharing
I have the same model of rifle in .257 that he has in the video and find your statement to be absolutely correct. Mine shoots well with a pressure point near the fore end tip , but is still sensitive to pressure on the fore end when shooting off a rest. For deer I shoot a Sierra 117 gr boat tail pushed by A charge of IMR-7828. I’ve also used the Sierra 100 gr and IMR-4064 on deer with good results.
@@davidzakrzewicz707 oh yea need tp learn remedies with limited resources in field...once,you rifle starts throwing rounds in radial dispersion there are things to try in field before going home
Would love to see a turkey hunt and all the ins and out of that! 🤞🏻
Tom, I subscribed to a channel called VA Meat Hunter and he has a great collection of deer rifles. One didn't shoot so well, so he put one of those round harmonics dampening devices on his barrel and that sucker automatically shot < 1 MOA. Just a thought.
East Texan I'm going to try that when I get back to this rifle just to see? If that makes it shoot good then that tells me the problems are harmonics?
love watching your journey. been there done that many many times. A crown problem can usually be seen with the naked eye. i have to agree with the other guy about the clearance being to close or not enough. start with 1 powder 1 bullet and work you way up. if no results go to a different bullet or powder but never both! remember when hunting your first shot is the one you want in the same place every time period. 2 touching and a flyer is always you or heat. good luck and thank you
Tom I know the feeling I have two cheap ar15s one in 223wielde the other in 7.62x39 that consistently shoot less than moa with almost any load with 4x magnification. Than I struggle to get my high dollar lightweight bolt gun to do as well.
Is that 257 a long action? If it were mine take to a gunsmith and check and see if action/barrel look ok. A rebarrel with fast twist would be interesting.
Interesting video, I enjoy target shooting maybe later deer hunting. I have a OLD MAUSER that is PRE WWII with some interesting features you may like. It has a KRUPP BARREL (hexagon shape at the receiver and FULL length raised rib with express sights), spoon bolt handle, twin set triggers. The serial numbers match (barrel to receiver to mag well to bolt to gas shield and trigger assembly. Oh it 7X57 Mauser and since you were working on a 7mm Mauser I thought you might be interested. Was yours a Winchester Model 70? Thats what it looked like. Unfortunately my Mauser has a BEAUTIFUL MODERN STOCK not the original one.😳😵💫😡😮💨. It's a NEAT RIFLE that would be VERY EXPENSIVE if to be built NOW especially because of the barrel how it was made, a LOT of MACHINING which would be expensive. Tell me what you think? 🤔😁👍
Tom, I enjoy your honest journey to get rifles to shoot better. I was watching your front rest rocking to the right when you fired the rifles. What do you think could causing a sideways movement? Could the boards under the rear rest be contacting something causing the sideways movement?
Kevin, what causes that is me. I have always had a tendency to have the rifle go to the right on recoil and if you look at some of my other videos when I'm shooting you will often see the rifle land on the right hand side of the rest when it comes down and I have to move it back to the left to put it back in the channel. On that specific group I changed my angle slightly behind the rifle so that I wasn't as square to the rifle and noticed that as soon as I made that change the rest kicked right. And what causes that is when my shoulder goes back it's not going straight back. It's more of an arc around my body like joints tend to do. So my shoulder is going behind me, that opens up my right arm and hand that's holding the rifle, and then my cheek acts like a fulcrum on the side of the stock and the barrel goes right. And then that gets into everything I talked about in learning to drive a rifle and why I need to keep everything connected. In that instance the rifle didn't jump as high but it definitely moved the rest. And the rest of the shots in that group were similar because once I opened up my body a little I had to stick with it to keep everything consistent with the rest of the shots. Good eye spotting that! And I was debating whether or not to mention that in the video but I was worried I might be getting into to many details for a lot of people? It's always a tough call for me to know when to get into something like that.
Tom, did you ever send the 257 roberts back to Winchester like you mentioned about doing in an earlier video?
Also the two cartridges that I know of like it really hot and really fast is 270 + 257 Roberts me to push the powder charge up as fast as you can make it they don't like to go slow
I am tuning in a rifle I had built. I found a good Ruger m/77 action and had a shilen barrel installed. I had the barrel stamped .275 Rigby. My desire is to tune in 154 grain bullets for it. At my current load I have an average muzzle velocity of 2758 fps. I plan to stick with the same bullet and go to different loads until I find the "pet load" for that bullet. I believe the rifle is a much better shooter than I am. I had hoped for a control feed action like the Hawkeye but the original M77 was a push feed but works well. Actions are expensive. I did not know before acquiring the rifle that Ruger has torque specs for the stock screws. One of which is pretty high. Good luck with that .257. It should hold much better groups than I saw on this video. Of course I can say that while sitting here at my computer.
I too am working up a load with Hornady 154gr soft points in one of my 7x57's. My first test ladder will be 35-40 grains of IMR 4350, seated at 3.000". The last couple months in north Texas have been too hot to go out to the range, but Fall is arriving and we'll see how it goes.
Hi Tom
I would fiddle with the stock screws. 60 in/lbs in the front and 25 in the back to start and then go from there.
Luvta Handload I've been playing with the screws a little bit but it's tricky with the older models like the XTR. It still has 3 screws in the bottom instead of 2 like the new ones and the middle and rear screw need to be on loose side. They actually left them so loose that everyone used to put lock tight on them to keep them from coming out and the reason for that is because of how the trigger guard is made. And the front one I only go so tight with it because it's a slotted screw. I could replace it with torque screw but I don't see any reason I can't get it to shoot with the original screws?
Regarding the tightness on the stock,I’ve seen it mentioned that the front screw should be set to 90”lbs (I find this difficult to believe) because of the angle the bolt enters the action and the rear bolt should be set around 40”lbs with the center simply snugged. I’d have no idea as to how or what could be used for 90”lbs, but I’d most certainly wouldn’t attempt it with the slotted bolt. I’m not recommending you do this,just letting you in on what I read. Btw, I’ve been fighting the same problem as you for quite some time now. Good luck.
Love the 257 Roberts! My Ruger Mark II did the exact same thing. I also had removed the fore end pressure and glass bedded my stock....no improvement. After hundreds of frustrating rounds, I did the very old trick of adding 2-4 wraps of electrical tape around my barrel about 2 inches from the end of the stock. Problem solved....most powder/bullet combos are well under an inch. Some barrels just need that upward pressure for barrel harmonics. Hope this helps.
It's funny how something like that can really change how a rifle shoots! I haven't tried that yet but I will at some point in the not to distant future. With that said I did finally get some good groups out of it but it was with 90gr bullets. The problem is I don't want to hunt with 90 grainers.
Mid charges of IMR 4350 and 100gr Speer BTSP has given me consistent 1/2 to 3/4" groups with my barrel bandaid. I've got a box of the 120 grainers that I've yet to try. I think I'll see what you come up with. Good luck! Also, have you tried adjusting the amount of torque pressure on your action screws? @@TomRiverSimpleLiving
I have the same 257 rifle as you do. I have had mine a long time and now it sits in my safe all the time. After trying to get it to shoot better than 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups for years i finally gave up
Gary, I have 2 different Featherweights in 257 Roberts. One is this one, a 1982 XTR and the other is 2012. The 2012 is the same as the one Gun Blue is shooting and my accuracy is horrible but I'm pretty sure I figured out why. The lands are uneven where they start in the chamber. As for the XTR, I have no clue why this one doesn't shoot great but I'm going to keep trying to figure it out! And I did un Blue's video on that and I have no doubt that his shoots great. And I also noticed the 2012 like his is a 1/2 pound heavier than the XTR and I think that little bit of extra weight helps?
Tom I don't know, but sometimes I think the ultra/feather lite rifles may have accuracy problems due to vibration/ harmonics in the barrel and receiver. What do you think?
I have seen this to be the case time and again! More in wood sticks to over plastic stocks!
My 06 featherweight is a tack driver and it’s not bedded or floated. 1963 30-06.
@@apriliaguy4life198 You have an old rifle from the time when quality was job one.
@@edwardabrams4972 I have a 303 jungle carbine and accuracy problems was liked to removing to much metal from the receiver.
But who knows ,Enfield's have many ways
of losing accuracy.
Alexander that's a really great question and honestly I don't have answer. The 7x57 is also a Featherweight but it has a much heavier stock on it that adds about 1lb and for me the overall weight of the rifle seems to make more of a difference than the weight of the barrel and action? My pre 64 in 270 shoots great even without the barrel being free floated even though I think it would shoot even better if it were. But after a few other comments suggesting I try one of those rubber harmonic stabilizers on the barrel were going to see. If that causes this rifle to start shooting then the problem would seem to be the harmonics? It's going to be a while before I get back to it but that's the next step in this process.
I have a friend who built himself a 25-06 years ago. He has taken dozens of elk, moose, bear, dear, and antelope with it over the years. He told me that he could never get the heavier 117 and 120 gr bullets to group very well. His favorite bullet was the 100 gr partition. I've had a number of 257 Roberts rifles, still have two, a pre 64 model 70 and a new south Carolina model 70 featherweight. I have had problems with the heavier bullets too, and have much better luck with 100 and 110 gr bullets. My featherweight will do decent with the hornady superformance 117 gr load but sprayes 120 gr partitions over the target. 110 accubonds group tightly. My pre 64 groups the 110 accubonds very well and has always shot well with 100 gr bullets. The 100 gr Silvertip was my Dads favorite in the rifle when he owned it.
Yup.....fellas up here seem to be trending towards high quality 85 90 grain bullets,in .243 and 99 and 100 gainers in .250s......they back up their choices with greeeeat. Field reports on recent hunts
Heard story about this farmer.......way he sights in his hunting rifle........takes with him 9n tractor and fires one shot each morning, at target he set up at edge of field....he said that's about as clock as he can get to gunting,conditions........ one shot is all you need after,that you just shooting up landscape or ruining, meat
My 25-06 build (just a 24 inch barrel instead of the factory 22 in.) and timney trigger) shoots 100-115 gr great. 117s at 1.06in. 120s are just okay at maybe 1 1/2 MOA for factory Core Lokt
Tom ,,in the seventies I owned many different calibers of rifles and loaded for them all ,,one of the first things I learned about different calibers was that I was restricted in accuracy reports by the brass available for the caliber for instance, I had many different 308 Winchesters and with the same loads , brass , primer , powder and bullet , all of those rifles would shoot the same one inch groups and then I bought a thousand IMI match brass ,,those brass alone cut the group sizes in half on every rifle.
I just subscribed to your channel and apologize if this has been covered, is the twist too slow to stabilize the heavier bullets in the 257 Roberts? Maybe try some 100 grain bullets in it?
Really enjoy your videos Tom, you did great bedding those rifles. I really hope you get that 257 dialed in. Question on your 7x57, have you tried the heavier bullets in it? I had a 275 rigby which as you know is a 7x57 just the British name for it. It definitely showed a preference for heavy bullets. The 160 Speer hot-cor with H4350 was a very good load for me. I don’t know what load specs your using, but I loaded mine to modern pressures which it pretty easily outruns the 7mm08 with modern loads for modern rifles due to more case capacity. Just thought I’d see if you have tried the heavier bullets in yours yet. And I really hope you get that 257 dialed in. It’s hard to beat a model 70, just beautiful great feeling rifles. I have one in 416 Remington magnum that averages slightly less than 3/4” with multiple loads. Kicks like a mule on the bench but it’s worth it lol.
Can't speak for Tom but I loaded up some 175 gr Speer Grand Slams for my 2013 7X57 Featherweight. I have had sub MOA group with 145s but not consistent MOA or less. Always seems to put two close and a flyer.
Sir on the 80s Bob. Been around 2 n still am both Tach Drivers. 120gr Partitions with IMR 4831 110 AB with 6.5 Staball. Both also have the factory pressure point in front end of forearm. 1 was glass bedded as you mentioned. The other as it came.
Ya might want to tray putting that pressure point back. About 3 inches long at front of forend.
Just a thought .
Bear of luck with it btw. N keep us updated. .Love them M 70s n those calibers..
instead of a full barrel channel bed you might try the Weatherby method and only put a pressure point at the tip of the fore end. I have several vanguards in their factory stocks that have one pressure point and all shoot well with handloads.
Great rifles, great marksmanship work Tom!
Thanks Dan, I do appreciate that.
A few years ago, some of the police snipers nearby were cryogenically freezing their rifles to de-stress the barrels. Would that help your .257?
I have the same Winchester Model 70 Featherweight, .257 Roberts that you have.
I shoot about 1½ inch groups, and the rifles been glassed and piller beded.
It's been working well on game these past years, but it's definitely not a tack driver.
I have watched the one video on your pre 64 Model 70. I really enjoyed it and your honesty impressed me. I'm giving you a sub and I am glad to know you are continuing more videos. I will be a regular. I'm not going to tell you this or that you know what your doing , that's obvious. I would like to know what what your problems if and when are and your findings. I love talking , listening and learning anything gun / shooting related. I quit hunting years ago but enjoy target shooting and all evolved there. Good luck and great shooting.
Wanted to add , you have got some really fine rifles. Some collect expensive art. Your shooting my Rembrandts. Love that 257 R . 7 x 57 Granddaddy of all. Great calibers both .
interestingly, thats two rounds i am very interested in. great stuff... but I don't know if it makes you feel real confident in the featherwights!
so Maybe when you get close play with seating depth, then adjust powders, you took on so many variables at once ... it made me nervous, but well done and keeping after it
You may want to try a vibration dampener on the barrel I think limbsaver makes one
Sometimes the rifle teaches us it's a mystery that we as shooter's have to figure out but when it all comes together the rewards are greatly appreciated by what we have accomplished that 257 is making u work for the best she can be.
kinda like a darn good woman LOL
@@warrenporter302 yes sir
And Wayne, I have to say i do love a good mystery. And I really have learned a lot from this 257R even if I haven't quite figured it all out yet.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving I'm learning right along with u on this one
That .257 is all over the place.... have you checked the crown? I found the 139gr Hornady a very accurate choice for the 7 x 57.... mine used to shoot sub MoA at about 2970fps with that 139gr load....
Thanks for the video ,see you on the next one
I thought you said the lands in the throat are uneven. Did you fix that
I'd be checking the barrel crown on the 257 Roberts.
I bought one of the first model 70 XTR featherweight rifles, back around 1980 or so, in 7x57. At the time, to me, it was the ideal deer rifle and cartridge, except a 3 inch group was the best I could get it to do. My opinion of it soured quite a bit and it went down the road. Over the years, I have had a number of 7x57's, but none of them endeared themselves to me. I haven't had a 7x57 in awhile now, a 7mm-08 seems to make a lot more sense these days, but maybe if I find just the right rifle, I might one day again try another 7x57.
As a long time fan of the 7x57 it saddens me that you had bad luck with the Winchester. I have two .284 caliber rifles one 7x57 and one .275 Rigby. Both of mine are custom even though my old 7x57 is nothing fancy to look at. I have spent many years loading for those rifles and they both shoot quite well and are used for different things so I use different loadings in each. A 7mm08 would be a nice choice. I believe I would rather have it than the parent .308 but that's my opinion. The ballistics of the 7mm08 almost mirror the 7x57.
Thanks for taking us along. I was much more frustrated than you when my .257 ruger hawkeye had accuracy issues (kinda had a mind of its own), but finally found a load and torqued the dang stock to 90inLBS! (factory recommended that) and she shoot straight now.
You are so correct about "inaccurate" rifles being more interesting, because they challenge us and mess with our emotions. Have you tried the 100 gr Hotcores with h4350. mine love em.
Good prior comments. I've noticed alot of rifleman have inaccuracy because they don't dial the parallax out of their scopes. Recently I help a friend with a sportorized 03 A3 with a beautiful Leopold 4-12 scope. He had the parallax set at 200 yrds. When I checked it it had probably 3-5" of parallax. We adjusted the parallax adjustment until we dialed it out. Boom, sub moa groups. On some scopes you have to do it with the eye piece. The problem is you may lose clarity in the reticle. Only solution then is change scopes out. Good luck Tom
I've Got The The 7 X 57 Mauser , the .275 Rigby It's Spot On With A 4X Leupold Fixed Scope Winchester 70 Model Featherweight . Sweet Little Combo
I have a pushfeed mdl 70 in 7x57 that would shoot 1.5 with various loads. I had it rechambered to 7x57 AI and had Hornaday make some custom dies. I'm getting .6", 3 shot groups with 140gr. CX's.
Seems like the chamber just needed to be cleaned up.
On your 257 Featherweight XTR - did you try putting some upward pressure at the tip of the stock? try putting two business cards just to test if it likes some upward pressure at the tip of the stock. I had that same gun in 7x57 and I kick myself for selling it
Just a thought, but those boards your rear bag is resting on could be a little rickety, enough to sling a shot. It happens to me, sometimes.
Bill I definitely need to make some improvements there but everything felt pretty solid on the bench. But I will have that fixed before the next range trip. I got measurement on that trip to see exactly what height I need to cut a block to or build a platform.
Totally agree. That made me cringe. For the sake of science invest in a lead sled or similar rest please.
that set up you have may be giving some movement. that board doesn't look secured down. thanks for the video.
When a person does decide to give up on a rifle and 'move it along' should that person indicate to the prospective buyer the reasons you are getting rid of it? I've never sold a rifle but have bought one online with excellent results. I wouldn't feel right selling a rifle that I couldn't get to shoot without full disclosure.
Why is my 7mm 08 as nice as the "xtr" but is only a "SA" i always wondered what made the "xtr" actually extra? My feathweight xtr has a far less nice stock...seems odd
My Ruger 77 absolutely hates the heavy loads (117/120) but cloverleaf's are common with 100 gr. Nosler ballistic tips and 87gr. Gamekings. Please consider the lighter loading.
Tom change the trigger you know you want to. All that work you know you want to put a better trigger in it. I'm thinking the trigger is not breaking consistently. You can check it with a trigger gauge.
I approve this message… That gun gives me a headache let’s trade it in…
Boy, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one having grouping issues with the roberts. My Ruger 77 MKII is testing my patience.
I had a 1980 ish 257 feather weight went through 5lbs of different powder and bullets changed stock bed it free float it finally ran across an article that said featherweight barrels needed up pressure on the forend bingo shot 1" groups was about to trade it in
I bought 280 REM featherweight in 2018 right before they stopped chambering the round. It’s been very accurate. I wonder if they finally corrected stock issues? Mine came glass bedded and free floated. I’m in CA and we have to shoot copper for hunting. Barnes bullets are always very accurate but it shoots well with federal blue box lead too. A recently added Timney trigger really helped overall accuracy too.
I feel for you mate. Have you "opened up" the bedding as shown at 3m 52s? Yours is in contact at the sides and the rear of the tang wheareas my M70 has had that sort of contact removed. Only the underside of the action makes contact with the epoxy at the tang. This involves a lot of "relieving" with a sharp tool. Ditto at the front of the action; no side contact and the bottom, front and sides of the recoil lug are also relieved. Good luck mate. My M70 is a 30/06😄😄
Just out of curiosity what is the twist rate on the barrel of each rifle? Try nosler accubond and partition.
You might want to try some 175s, THE bullet the cartridge was built for.
They've proven themselves over the years.
You can hunt virtually anything on the planet with that, given your ability to " dot the eye" with them .
Great good luck, mystro!
I was thinking the same thing about the crown on the 257 bob. Also try putting some business cards under the forearm to create a pressure point before full length bedding. Also maybe have the lugs lapped and the face of the bolt trued up. my 2¢ is worth exactly what you paid for them. Good luck I enjoy watching the progression.
I had to laugh when you said that the in-accurate rifles are more interesting…. I do the same thing! when i have them shooting great they get put away in the safe and i start looking for a new project..
Kinda like you …. my newest project is a Winchester model 70 featherweight but mine is chambered in .264 winchester magnum..
I have bedded it and crowned the barrel with a recessed target crown …. changed the scope out.. and i’ve tried several bullets.. but all the bullets have all been non lead since i want to hunt with it in california .. i’m just wanting it to shoot 3/4 minute groups at a respectable velocity but haven’t got there yet.. I have another 4 test loads for it to hopefully shoot for group this weekend…. if it fails me again i’m gonna seriously consider a new barrel.. primers are too hard to come by to waste on a rifle that won’t shoot…
just a note on skinny barrels…. i have 2 remington mountain rifles right now which barrels are much thinner that the featherweight barrel and both of those remington’s shoot great! they will both easily shoot 3/4 moa or better any given day and sub 1/2” on occasion.. both free floated and bedded.. one is a .270 and the other one is a 7-08 …
love your channel!
keep up the good work!
I have seen scope bases have a raised spot in the center of the base and when the screws are tightened it still allowed for scope movement.
Try some Sierra prohunters in both guns. They are extremely forgiving bullets in every gun I’ve tried. If a rifle won’t shoot a prohunter or a gameking it won’t shoot.
Sometimes rifles can really create problems! I have 5 in the shop right now for barrels and stocks on some old Husqvarna rifles and Interarms rifles and they all shot good I just wanted different calibers that I don’t already own! I am restocking some of them too and rebluing and putting limbsaver pads on some. I found it’s best to never take more then 2 to the range at a time. I have 3 Sako’s that all shoot 1/2” inch with factory loads even though I reload. I have some pre64’s that all shoot an inch MOA or less but they required handloading to get them there. Great video my friend and hang in there! It reminds me of a book called the “The good earth” which says “Thee ox is slow but the earth is patient” looking forward to seeing more next week!
Are you sure you don't have a scope or mount issue?
I'm right there with you on this. It's the inaccurate machine/rifle that is interesting...
Hmmm. I’m watching the videos you’ve produced I’m not sure I would be hanging on to these. In my experience with Featherweights it’s kinda of a hit n miss thing. Some are okay and others just don’t seem to like anything. They are beautiful rifles though.
It's a good slow burn powder for the 30-06 and 270 it might work out in a 257 Roberts
Couldn't hurt to put a temporary pressure pad in that stock and see if it calms down to whip in the barrel. If it doesn't work, you didn't waste alot of time. JMOYMMV
I've had good luck bedding under the chamber area, another few inches in front of the receiver. 3-4".. Also, as you mentioned, have a close look at the muzzle.
Before you bed the entire barrel lenght only bed the chamber area. All my hunting rifles with light weight barrels and thin fore ends is bedded in such a manner. I've never seen a muzzle crown effect accuracy much.
i'm thinking a change in powder would do the trick. H4895?
Try a bullet lighter than 100 grains. I'll bet a 90 grain bullet will show you some improved groups. It's been my experience with the .257 Roberts. Thanks for sharing. God Bless.
Don't have a .257, but after I try some 175 gr with IMR-4350 in the 7X57 I have I'll let you know what it does I may try one or two more things to see what's causing it to throw flyers. Hopefully just the increased torque on the actions crews has helped. That hump of bedding right in front of my recoil lug bugs me, even if it is right at the chamber area. Right now I just need to get to the range. For the life of me I can't see why your .257s aren't shooting into one hole. They should be sub in inch all day with anything under 115 grain, I would think.
.257 Roberts with the new 130gr and 135gr 25cal bullets could be a serious fun gun. Will need a faster twist barrel of course.
Still enjoying watching you work to figure it out. I can't wait to see it when it all comes together, but then you'll have a boring rifle. 😉 Thanks for sharing as always.
Thanks Cervus, we all have to have our white whale and I guess this one is mine! LOL
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Don't let it do to you what Moby did to Ahab. You win this battle and show that Whale who's boss. LOL. I'm just hoping my little 30-06 project doesn't turn into an Albatross.
@@cervus-venator LOL
E o problema com o free bore, conseguiu resolver?
Can it be center screw torque on the 257?
Hey Mr Tom, sorry you're having issues with the 257. I'm not sure what might help may have to think about this for a bit
I appreciate that 308 guy but there's nothing to feel bad about. I love a good mystery!
That 257R would be finding a new home if it were mine!
I would hate to see you bed the entire channel of that rifle. I had accuracy issues with my .257 Roberts shooting heavy bullets to. I would try lighter bullets (87gr-100gr) and see what happens.
I had a 270 Win. that would shoot only flat base bullets, not sure if any of those were, also, my 25-06 only likes max loads at least for breaking paper.
Im just getting into reloading got everything I need but how do I set the seating die to crimp on the cannelure
Imr also makes a 4895 powder to
The 7x57, 257 Roberts and 244 or 6mm Remington all share the parent case of the 7x57 Mauser.
I'd be curious to see what a lightweight barnes would do going fast out of that 257. It seems like everything you have tried has been on the heavy conservative end
I have a winchester 70 super grade that shoots just over 1/2 moa with the barnes 80 gr. ttsx @ over 3500 fps and it shoots sub moa with 101 LRX but only at about 3100 fps.. . it opens up when i speed it up with the 101…. I use the 80 gr. load.. i’ll kill anything that i’d shoot with that rifle..
I agree, I have the same '81 year model 70 xtr in 257 Roberts and I wouldn't shoot anything under 3" right at 3" with everything I tried. Bought the 80gr Barnes ttsx and worked up a load and now the holes are touching each other, when I'm on my A game but 3/4" is what she will do all the time now. Took me awhile as my grandpa had given me the rifle I couldn't believe this beautiful rifle at first wouldn't shoot but with a little work, free float and glass bed and the right bullet it's a laser. Should have years of pure enjoyment out of it now
@@nickp941 i also have a friend that has a kimber 84m in .257 roberts that also shoots great with that 80 gr ttsx.. the last time i saw him checking zero with it he had 3 shots touching right above the bullseye….at 3550 fps if i remember correctly.. i don’t think he’s tried any other bullet in his.. it shot great and he stuck with it!
That great! I'm glad I tried a lighter bullet. And you are right I would have no problem shooting at anything I want to kill. The deer I shot with that bullet combo this last hunting season dropped where it was standing. The only problem I'm having is finding more 80gr Barnes bullets... Fairy dust
I have a 1981 Ruger #1B in 257 Robert’s that absolutely loves to shoot 1/2” groups with Barnes 100 gr TSX and 101 gr LRX’s. I’ve yet to find a rifle that won’t shoot great with Barnes Bullets.
I can't remember if you checked for copper fouling or not. I have worked on 3 rifles that have had similar problems. After hoppes 9 and a lot of jb bore paste, all shoot sub moa.
I didn't mention it in the video but I did check Travis. And I did a pretty good cleaning on the XTR. It wasn't bad but I wanted to start with a clean bore. And I was surprised at just how good the bore looks on the XTR. It almost looks new.