Skip to about 6 minutes if your needing to know about the canister oil filter and the oil bath air cleaner . Thanks for watching and I hope it helped .
Hi there, I've got one that has the steel wool looking filter inside the air filter. Does that air filter come apart so I can take that filter out? I've got the whole thing soaking in kerosene right now trying to see if I can get the top off, it was full up with acorns and dirt
@@zemandgmal. no it doesn't come apart unfortunately , soak it like you're doing and blow it out good with air . Might have to do that a few times , don't be tempted to pull out the mesh it'll mess it up .I think you can buy a new one from Tisco or A&I tractor parts
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thanks so much! Have you done a carburetor rebuild tutorial on here somewhere? As an experiment, we started without the air filter and she started with a squirt of ether and ran with the choke all the way out, which is how people I guess were running her until she just died and I decided to tear into things- so we took apart the carb and that was kind of cobbled together with some wire and stuff but it wasn't really all that clogged, but it did look like the guy might have actually MADE the gasket out of a piece of felt or something so I decided to get a gasket for it...so now here we are rebuilding the carb.
@@zemandgmal. kits less than 40.00 just a jet stoped up , screw them out clean and blow it out good . Try not to bend the float , should be good as new
0:160:20 I actually watched your video start to finish but I couldn't figure out how to do this new time set they added. You really helped me about the oil bath air filter and understanding it. I bought a Massey Ferguson 35 last week and it looks pretty much identical to yours. Thanks for sharing the knowledge
Great video Chris. The process for your Ferguson is basically the same as for my old 140. Mine has the cartridge type filter and I use the Wix 51172 filter. I also use 30 HD in mine. When properly cared for, these old tractors will still be running when the new ones have been recycled into something else.
Back then machines were built repairable everything now is built with a service life . Can't sell new stuff if everyone keeps what they have running forever
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay For me Chris, they'll have a hard time selling their stuff any way because now you have to drive an hour or more to a dealership. Daddy bought my 140 at our local IH dealer in Winston-Salem in 1976 and now the closest CaseIH dealer is in Union Grove. Probably the main reason why there's so many Kubotas out there is because you can't drive 20 miles on any direction without finding a dealer.
I can not thank you enough for making and posting this video! Now that my Dad’s memory has been taken away by dementia the maintenance on the farm and tractors has fallen on my shoulders. Most stuff isn’t too bad but this old yet wonderful Ferguson 35 has been a source of one headache after another for me. Your video was straight to the point and very easy to follow! Thank you!
Enjoyed, just did that service to my TO 35, I have a real problem getting the filter out of the canister, never thought about screwing it off and new one back on, Thanks for that tip, I also put a few drops of machine oil in my tachometer drive on generator and some graphite spray on the front axle pivot bolt,
Enjoyed the video. I’m quite a bit older than you so I’ve been there, done that butI still enjoy watching these videos. I’m not so arrogant that I don’t think I can learn something from anyone.
So Helpful. My husband has dementia so now I wanted to learn to run the tractor, you taught me a lot and now I still need to replace the gas sediment bowl that is leaking. Will look for videos that help me with that. Well done, even I could understand it.
There's a gasket and a screen under the bowl that's usually the problem if it's leaking around the thumb screw just replace the whole thing it's only 30.00 or so, not worth playing with all day
Well done. I've been working on the old Fords and Fergusons for 18 years and I wouldn't change a word of this video. I WOULD 'add' that it is always best to include cleaning the original fuel screens as well. There are 3. Also...., a note to 'newbies'....NEVER cut in a 'cannister' type fuel filter into a gravity fed system like this one. If you buy one of these old tractors that has one, GET RID OF IT. They are meant for a PRESSURIZED system. JMHO.~Eli.
The fuel screen in the tank and carb are usually long gone around here but good point , I clean the fuel bowl and screen every time I fuel up . Some inline filters will work depends if it screen or paper element on the inside if it's the wrong one your abasoulty right better off without it.thanks that's a good idea for a video
Great advice. My brother had put fuel filter on mine and my mechanic removed it! Also, just something as little as knowing I can remove oil bath filter without draining oil is helpful! I used a hose rubber washer after changing filter because I misplaced one that came with it. Been waiting to change oil to correct, but now know I can do it without draining oil. Thanks!!! Did you say there are 3 screens that should be cleaned???
I paid 2,000$ even for mine. Exact same tractor. Works great but I'm missing the tachometer. I'd say if you are in the market for an older tractor I'd go for the MF 35 before I went after a Ford n series. Same price, but the Massey Ferguson is a bit easier to work with. Two stage clutch and pto shaft is sized right. You don't need a pto clutch. Mine came with hydraulic remote.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!! I've had my 1972 MF135 several years and I need to do this. Have changed engine oil but had no idea about the air cleaner!! Thanks again for posting this video!!! If you get a chance I would love to know how to adjust the clutch...it has started letting out right at the top. THANKS!!!! Angel
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay That would be WONDERFUL!!!!! One of the loader hydraulic hoses busted today...I will try my hand at replacing it to. Any advice is much appreciated!!!
@@Angel283 spray it with penetrating oil , use a wrench to hold the side you're not taking off and sometimes a few taps with a hammer will help a lot to get it turning
Wow this is great video. I think it might be cool to get some more tractor maintenence videos or related tractor content. Or perhaps some lessons and stories from tractor mechanic. I don't know. Of course do what you want. I kinda wish there was online tractor mechanic school. It does not exist as far as I know. I drive truck for a living but do grow grain in my backyard and hope to farm/Homestead one day. I recently got a 2 cycle 20hp Massey Ferguson from 80s with some kinda Japanese name engine starting with letter Y. Only have a sub soiler for it so far but hope to get a disc harrow for it before to long.
I run into a couple of problems with tractor repair videos , first one is we're just too busy I'm the only shop left in five counties that can work on the old stuff the second one is my wife does the filming . I'm glad to help if you have any questions, just email me homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com
I had a to30 Ferguson. Great tractor. I slowly switched to all IH and farmall just to be able to cultivate and side dress everything all from 1 tractor. I wasn’t using the Ferguson no more so I sent on to someone to get some use put it. Hard to beat a offset farmall for gardens and deer plots lol
Most small farms around here in the old days ran a 35 or 135 Ferguson and a 100 to 140 farmall you could tend a hundred acres no problem with that combo
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I’m in southern va and some of the local tobacco farmers here used to keep 200 to 300 acres cultivated with the 140s running 2 or 3 at a time. We had 1 here planting 1000 acres of tobacco. He ran 3 8 row transplanters at a time and 4 of the 2440 Deere with 4 row cultivators and ran 6 of those red pullers. He had 50 or more men for the topping and sucker pulling lol look up r.hart Hudson farms
@@Moorefarmalls by the time you could move allotment off the farm every one here had gone to four row . We had thirty acres of tobacco we used a super A and a 140 for it all bedding/planting to trucking
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay yea I’m steady expanding my little garden thing every year. I tried selling some this year for the 1st time and everything sold that I wanted to sell without even advertising none of it. I just sold enough to pay for the seed and fertilizer and some gas and gave the rest away to family members of what I didn’t keep. I’m gone add a few new spots in for next year. I’m gone start breaking that shortly and let it sit for the winter
I just ready to have a good tractor to tune up.. we let a 90 something model kabota 4 wheel drive slip right through our fingers . We didn't buy it because we didn't have this land yet and two mths later we bought this property. But I believe the right one will come along again. Yours is a perfect size . Y'all take care don't work to hard.
I wouldn't be too heartbroke about missing a Kubota I ran the dealership for a few years . Try to find one of the 3 F's Ford, Ferguson or Farmall or bad as I hate to say it a John Deere
I got lucky when I got that one ! An old farmer friend of mine had it setting under a shelter for ten years or so but before that it was very well kept . So I didn't have to do much to get it right
An old Z series Continental engine!! We know that manufacturer. We have our engine rebuilt now and are having trouble getting it started. Great video Chris. Thanks!
That's right , they are about as tough as it gets this ones been rebuilt once since 59 only got a couple off hundred hours on it since . I'd been wondering how the flat head build was going I've had a run of worn out distributors lately hook a dwell meter to it might help .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Brand new distributor, new wiring, new coil, timing set. Checked continuity in all wiring. Checked grounding. Sparks are not bright blue, but there. Rebuilt carb. Just cant get it to do more than pop a few times. Very frustrating! Gonna have a local tractor mechanic check it out next week.
@@contentment164 could be timing or point gap , not getting spark at the right time with all you've done to it would be easy to have something a little off ,those old motors can be aggravating especially flat heads . I worried with a cub farmall a whole 10 hour day to get it right this past week because it had the wrong NEW carburetor on it and the didn't bother to tell me they changed it and it hadn't run since ( jets to big ) converted it to 12 volt then it wouldn't crank
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I gapped the plugs and points. This engine is the easiest thing in the world to time...two dots on the cam gear with one dot between them on the crank gear to mesh the gears and time the engine. Flywheel goes on only one way. All double-checked. Been dinking with it for a week now and can't get it to do anything. It may be the carb. I noticed that the number on the Zenith carb may not be prescribed for this engine/governor combination. But it ran before we rebuilt it. Thanks, Chris.
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I also agree that it is important to drop a wrench in the old oil, I do it all the time and it seems to help... keep me humble!
Thanks for the engine service demonstration, I'll put it to good use. I have a TO35 gas. Question about the water pump. Mine is not leaking, but I have play in the fan shaft. Parts diagram shows a pulley assemble sliding over the water pump shaft, held on by a spring clip?
Most of the time the pulley is pressed on , depends on if a cast iron ( really thick) or stamped steel . If its pressed on it'll come on the new pump normally .
I know someone who had one of these since new. they never changed the oil, they'd just rebuild the engine when it wore out from lack of oil changes. When I serviced it the oil bath air cleaner was caked with mud. I had to scrape it out and soak the element in kerosene.
If the engine is in half way decent shape 10-20 psi at idle and 35-40 ish at throttle. Anything over 7 psi at idle is safe I like for them to come up to 20 at half throttle, weight of oil your running has a lot to do with it , it'll be higher with straight 40 wt than 30 . Diesels usually run a little higher pressure than gas
Great video, I just serviced my 35 deluxe with your help. I noticed my exhaust manifold is cracked, I believe it is cast. Any advice or tricks to fix it or do I need a new manifold?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have what looks to be the exact same tractor! MF 35 deluxe gas probably early 1960’s. Could you please do a video showing how to change the hydraulic fluid?
Hi Chris. Wondering if you have any videos on operating a 35 Ferguson. The same one you had in your video, 6 years ago, servicing the 35 Ferguson. I am new to this, we have an old 35, but never operated one before. Thankyou Steven
Chris I have a MF diesel A3.152 Perkins. What engine oil do you recommend? It's got under 1000 hours on it and I don't use it hard. Gets cold up here. People seem to think Shell Rotella 15W-40 is good to use. I also need to change out the transmission and hydraulic case one of these days. I know that used to be straight mineral oil.
My Uncle in India has this tractor and if I'm not mistaken its been running since my dad was a kid and still runs very well. It can also take a beating. The hose going from the air filter to the engine block was old and frayed and had a giant 2-inch gash in it. I was very worried so I rapped a thick plastic bag around it and tied it to seal it. Even without the covering, the engine was strong enough to basically run without a filter. It is probably my favorite tractor.
Great video. Since you repair Masseys, do you where I can get a replacement throttle lever ball joint assembly? I think the part number is 834042M1. It's for a MF135 with Perkins gas engine. Thanks.
You can match them up at any good parts supply . I think it's 1/4 fine thread on the shaft and 1/4 course on the ball . The replacement may be a little longer than the original but there's enough thread to make it work
Thanks for the great info Chris. I bought a MF 35 last weekend as my first tractor. The previous owner just recently put a new carb on it but I noticed shortly after I drove it home that the carb was leaking. I think it is a loose fitting, but haven't confirmed yet. I also checked the oil and there was quite a bit of gasoline in the crankcase. Any ideas why? Float need adjusted? Running too rich? Could it be related to the leak? Also, there is some oil that will drip from the valve cover breather tube when it is running. Is that normal? Thanks!
Needle valve in the carb is sticking partially open after you shut off the engine. Could be trash , bad seat, or float set to high . Carb is flooding and running into the crank case .changing the oil and cutting the fuel off at the tank when its not running might take care of it and yes the oil drip is because the oil is diluted with gas .its not an uncommon problem. Glad to help if you have anymore questions just ask oh and I should tell you these ( new ) carbs they sell usually don't work right , you might be better to find an old one and rebuild it
Thanks! I have a service manual ordered so once I get it I'll try adjusting the carb. In the meantime I will change the oil and turn off fuel like you mentioned. The seller actually gave me the old carb in a box when I bought it. He just put the new one on a few weeks ago. I think the new one actually says made in China...ugh. It would be great to see a video on how to tune one of these carbs (hint hint) :) Thanks again, sir.
@@cjf3838 lol those China carburetors are a thorn in my side ! Most people think it will cheaply fix the problem but it never does . Thanks for the video suggestion
Homesteading the Hard Way Hi Chris. I changed the oil, fixed fuel leak and changed the oil in the air filter. It was awful! There was so much debris in it (including a whole peanut - in the shell!). I’m guessing a mouse put it there at some point. I still have smoke coming out of the breather tube that dumps down from the valve cover. Is this something I need to be concerned about? Do I need the head reworked? Thanks again for your advice. C.J. from Illinois
Hi, I enjoyed your video even learned a few things. I have a 1956 TO-35 with the front loader. It also has power steering. However the hoses are missing. The pump has a hose from the pressure side to the return and the fittings at the steering column are caped off. I ran a pressure test on the pump and found it would only produce about 500 psi My book calls for 1100psi I tried to adjust the relief valve but found no change in the pressure up or down. The price of a new pump is out of reach. Is it possible to rebuild this pump?
I've never seen one rebuilt that worked I've tried taking 2 or 3 to make one good one several times with no luck. Most inexpensive thing would be to replace the gearbox with an aftermarket manual one . I think they are in the 500.00 dollar range and the pump is probably not the whole problem I assume that's why it was bypassed
When you had the wrong wrench to take out the oil plug I started to laugh because I immediately thought "It never fails, as soon as someone is watching you - something is going to go wrong". LOL.
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay It boggles the mind when you take out your toolbox and start working only to find you have to have 2 sets of tools to do a simple job; 1 Imperial and 1 Metric - twice the cost in tools. I think it's one way the makers of all machines try to discourage people from doing their own repairs and maintenance so their service departments can stay in business. I've heard the service departments for autos makes 3 times the income as the sales of the autos. But what do I know. LOL
@@sheilam4964 when I ran the shop at a dealership that was very true you only sold new tractors so you could work on them later , with the new computer systems you can't hardly work on them at all yourself that's why I preach getting older equipment
So just 4 quarts to fill it back up? I just bought a 1958 gas 35 deluxe and needs a new generator. Can I swap that out for a single wire alternator and are they standard 12v system? Thx.
I bought a new front spindle, bearing kit, and used the same hub. And i can not for the life of me get the hub to pull up snug on the collar of the spindle. It lacks about 1"-1 1/2". Any thoughts?
Try to put the bearings on without the hub see if they don't stop short if so use some sand paper to clean up the spindle , if not the race isn't driven far enough in the hub .or the seal is stopping it it drives on the spindle then put the hub on Assuming the spindle is made right bad parts are more common than you would think but its probably the seal they are a tight fit on that spindle I use a piece of pipe to drive them on
I suspect most folks don't have to be shown how to check coolant , this was a by request video pretty much on the air cleaner and canister oil filter . On a customer's tractor we do all that and adjust the carb and set the points if they request it
Make sure it has a Perkins engine and power steering , diesels are notorious for being hard to steer . The pivot pin in the front axial is normally worn out ( about a 500.00 fix ) it already being converted to an alternator would be good , and check the lift really well if you can , get it hot and make sure it is controllable the pumps give a little trouble as well as the draft control rod getting bent . Check for a lot of blow by from the engine it will have a hollow echoing sound when its running if its close to needing a rebuild . Hope that helps they are some of the toughest tractors ever built and the cheapest to fix
Great video. We needed to know how to do that. We also have a Ferguson TO35. Unfortunately it was caught in flood waters and we need to get it running. Yes the flood waters completely covered the tractor. I know we need to drain the oil and replace the oil. Have had people say to put diesel in first to help with the water and drain the diesel out. Is this what we need to do? And what about the distributor, plugs and such? Do we have to drain the hydraulics also? We are not mechanics in Any sense at all. Any help is deeply appreciated.
@@steviefr7870 as soon as you can drain the oil and hydrologic fluid and flush everything with diesel fuel including the gas tank . Let me warn you , might have to replace everything electrical , starter , alternator , etc it can be a total loss . Make sure the engine isn't stuck first and look for cracks, if the water froze in the engine or transmission . When you get started on it email me and I'll talk you through checking it
Nothing froze. We are in southern Kentucky cold weather but no freeze since flood. Where is the hydraulic stuff located? Dang sounds like a real job for someone, not sure I'm capable. No alternator, generator. I havent checked the battery yet. Plan to take battery out and see if it will hold a charge, brand new. Thank you so much for your time we appreciate you.
@@steviefr7870 two plugs under the tractor , it can be a big deal and a lot of money especially if not done quickly . But it's worth a shot , I've had some that a carb rebuild ,points, new battery and a good flushing took care of and some that were scrapped from rust and sediment in the engine and drive train . Take the drain plugs and the spark plugs out and turn the motor over by hand
Drawing a blank on a ( wear block ) but tell which cover and I can probably help . I've seen lift covers break bolts and seen a shift cover break once . Most common thing to break would be the four big bolts that hold the lift cyl under the cover that's usually because the lift arms froze in the bushings , Ya know somebody might call them wear blocks
Ok think I figured out what you are talking about , on power steering on top of the rack it pushed the housing up broke the bolts ? That was a over pressure situation
If you're saying the axil is locked I'd check the brakes first if the engines locked pull injectors/ plugs fill the cylinders with diesel fuel and transmission fluid let it soak a week then bar the crank back and forth
Thanks for your video. I have a MF 35 Utility Massey Ferguson model 100. I need to replace the battery & don't know how to remove the hood. I know how to get to the fuel tank but the battery Can not fit through opening.
@@Cholosmom you'll have to take the two pivot bolts out at the front or the hood and hopefully it'll slide far enough forward and turn enough to slip the battery out . Be careful of the radiator. Once you go forward the whole hood should rotate a little to one side
It's a little thin if the engines good and hot the oil pressure drops depending on how worn the engine is it can be enough to cause damage plus they do better with a high detergent oil . That and I'm doing it professionally and can't have it have less oil pressure after a service like I said we use some 40 HD in some really worn farmalls
Take the fill plug out of the shift cover . Then take a long thin pry bar on the shift rails one of the forward gears has gone past the detents and won't let it come out probably second . Be gentle you'll see the set screws that's the best place to put a little pressure once you get everything back in line it'll free up prying on reverse won't do any good one of the other rails moved out of place happens a lot if you don't stop completely before shifting to reverse. It's a five minute fix but it's hard to explain how to do it
I have a 1958 TO35 I need to know how to flush the hydraulics, can you do a video on maintenance and flushing? My 3 point hitch goes up but will not go down when I start the tractor. Shut the tractor off and then it slowly goes down.
Control valve on the hydraulic pump is stuck , might can go in the right hand plate and unstick it . If not going to have to pull the lift cover and possibly the pump . Flushing probably won't help
@@teresaledford3863 you can , but we usually change it twice once with super cheap hyd oil ( get it hot ) drain then add the 90 WT mineral oil ( not SAE 90 gear oil ) people get confused by the markings on the dip stick . Not really much to flush just a pump and cylinder, go in the pto shifter plate to change the filter and two plugs under the tractor
...then left the key on overnight. battery discharged but coil HOT. too old 4 this, still kinda fun though. Think now need new coil as won't start. 6v or 12V is the question. Glad not using 4 a living.
Lol i do make a living using Ferguson's and fixing John Deere's Check the points first they usually burn up before the coil . I have the best luck with a 12 volt coil and an RU11 external resistor but it calls for an internal resistor 12 volt
The seals on the transmission input shaft most likely , pretty common problem . Parts are not bad but a lot of labor, transmission has to come off the tractor so the lower shaft can go back to get the input shaft out
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thank ya Sir for the reply. I probably wouldn't be able to do that myself, don't even a good tree to pull a motor the way we use to do...haha. It leaks maybe a couple gallons a season, but the g1 90w is getting up $60-70 a 5 gallon bucket now. Is there any type of conditioner that might help with it?
@@the-papaw not that I know of , I would wait until it needed a clutch if it was mine honestly . I have to buy it in 2.5 gallon jugs but we don't use much of it now days ,only in the TO 20s and 30s most of the 35s have been changed to hydraulic oil ( not that I recommend that )
Hey Chris I have a 53 Ferguson 35. Have problem starting it. Turn key to start nothing happens. Have changed the ignition switch and key no change then the solenoid no change. Battery can jumpstart it with direct connection to the starter. Wondering now if there is a problem with the transmission ignition interlock. Range lever and gear shifter are both in neutral but failure to start with no sound same as when trying to start in gear. Any suggestions in possible Interlock or other explanation would be much appreciated.
First thing check the battery cable at the starter with a volt meter ( a 5 dollar one from harbor freight works fine )and make sure it's not a bad cable or connection them check the ignition wire with the key in start , neutral switches give trouble usually the shaft in the transmission . Most of them have been bypassed but that's " unsafe " so I legally can't recommend that but you can put a plumber type clutch switch on it instead
@@drifters_end glad to help , that's why we do this . If you have any questions just ask up here or send an email . I don't do that many tractor videos most are by request from viewers but it seems we have helped a bunch of people
No 3165?!?!?!?!?!?!?? :) just kidding my friend! Good info! Always amazes me how many people over-torque oil plugs... I have seen so many of those! Dang metric! :) C'mon Chris, you know they put that spring in that oil filter just for fun! There's no real reason for it... manufacturers put arbitrary parts in machines for no reason all the time! :) Seeing all that dirt come out of that air cleaner... imagine the scoring that would give a cylinder! Excellent run-through Chris!
I am going to love to have it! :) So looking forward to that thing being fixed... especially since you told me they were real nice in function according to your friend. When are we going to buy common land somewhere between us so we can be neighbors? :) I'll meet ya halfway south.. :)
Yes they have tappets like most older engines . Only problem we have running 15w40 or 10w30 in the gas burners is sometimes the oil pressure will drop when the engine is good and warm . 30 HD usually has the same additives as 15/40
I recently bought a massey.... tried tracking down exact year with serial number... I cannot find out anything about my massey... I do know it's a mf35 3cyl. Perkins diesel 5 gauges on the dash... but would love to learn more if any of y'all could help me. Thanks
there's a plate on the dash with patent numbers and dates the last one will at least be close to the year or the year of manufacture . That's a 152 Perkins a really good and dependable engine and probably means you have a TO 35 deluxe with a 2 stage clutch the only option you could be missing is power steering . They are Tough machines That have stood the test of time
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay thank you so much bro for the reply and the feed back. The last 2 digits Are 47.. but that's not even close to the year that the guy told me it was...
@@reneuriartejr5764 it's not a 47 for certain , the plates beside the gauges if it's still there . It will have a list of patent numbers with a date beside each , the bottom one is the year of manufacture or close
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay OK cool. Plate says. Mf35 snm 251647 gives a list of 11 u.s patents.canada 1948-59. Detroit Michigan made in the USA. I really appreciate the help bro. Thank you. I want to find a forum and join.
Drains on the bottom of most 152 Perkins and the filter housing hangs down and the filter is a little smaller , most around here have been changed to a spin on like a 135
Dip sticks on the right side at the back of the step . Uses 90 wt mineral oil , usually sold as Ford hydraulic oil . It doesn't use 90 wt gear oil , it says 90 SAE on the dipstick causes a lot of confusion
That works if the canister isn't in the groove , won't help a bit if the o ring is bad or to thick to fit or a half inch to big like some of the new ones
@@HoodHandyman oh ! I would check on a spin on filter adapter , if you have room you can do away with that remote filter and put it on the block or buy a filter base ( hydraulic shops or farm stores have them ) and make some new lines, high temp rubber hydraulic lines will work fine . I've had to do that before
It's inside the rear end housing , not part of a normal service . It's more of a stainer than a filter . If your asking about the fluid the dip stick will be by your right heel sitting on the tractor
Not much , a couple of grease fittings on the steering behind the grill and one on the clutch pedal . It's probably got a paper air filter but that's about it
Lol I had someone leave a very long comment about how stupid I was for getting those " chemicals " all over me . I assumed he had never worked on anything
Skip to about 6 minutes if your needing to know about the canister oil filter and the oil bath air cleaner . Thanks for watching and I hope it helped .
Hi there, I've got one that has the steel wool looking filter inside the air filter. Does that air filter come apart so I can take that filter out? I've got the whole thing soaking in kerosene right now trying to see if I can get the top off, it was full up with acorns and dirt
@@zemandgmal. no it doesn't come apart unfortunately , soak it like you're doing and blow it out good with air . Might have to do that a few times , don't be tempted to pull out the mesh it'll mess it up .I think you can buy a new one from Tisco or A&I tractor parts
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thanks so much! Have you done a carburetor rebuild tutorial on here somewhere? As an experiment, we started without the air filter and she started with a squirt of ether and ran with the choke all the way out, which is how people I guess were running her until she just died and I decided to tear into things- so we took apart the carb and that was kind of cobbled together with some wire and stuff but it wasn't really all that clogged, but it did look like the guy might have actually MADE the gasket out of a piece of felt or something so I decided to get a gasket for it...so now here we are rebuilding the carb.
@@zemandgmal. kits less than 40.00 just a jet stoped up , screw them out clean and blow it out good . Try not to bend the float , should be good as new
@@zemandgmal. been meaning to do one on it but haven't gotten the chance
0:16 0:20 I actually watched your video start to finish but I couldn't figure out how to do this new time set they added. You really helped me about the oil bath air filter and understanding it. I bought a Massey Ferguson 35 last week and it looks pretty much identical to yours. Thanks for sharing the knowledge
Glad to help
Great video Chris. The process for your Ferguson is basically the same as for my old 140. Mine has the cartridge type filter and I use the Wix 51172 filter. I also use 30 HD in mine. When properly cared for, these old tractors will still be running when the new ones have been recycled into something else.
Back then machines were built repairable everything now is built with a service life . Can't sell new stuff if everyone keeps what they have running forever
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay For me Chris, they'll have a hard time selling their stuff any way because now you have to drive an hour or more to a dealership. Daddy bought my 140 at our local IH dealer in Winston-Salem in 1976 and now the closest CaseIH dealer is in Union Grove. Probably the main reason why there's so many Kubotas out there is because you can't drive 20 miles on any direction without finding a dealer.
I can not thank you enough for making and posting this video! Now that my Dad’s memory has been taken away by dementia the maintenance on the farm and tractors has fallen on my shoulders. Most stuff isn’t too bad but this old yet wonderful Ferguson 35 has been a source of one headache after another for me. Your video was straight to the point and very easy to follow! Thank you!
Glad to help . If you hit a real snag our email is on the home page
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I really do appreciate that! Thank you. 😊
Enjoyed, just did that service to my TO 35, I have a real problem getting the filter out of the canister, never thought about screwing it off and new one back on,
Thanks for that tip, I also put a few drops of machine oil in my tachometer drive on generator and some graphite spray on the front axle pivot bolt,
thanks for keeping it simple, great video.
this is a great instructional video. Missed yall on the live. Always enjoy them.
Don't know why Travis but your comments are going to spam , think we got it fixed
Enjoyed the video. I’m quite a bit older than you so I’ve been there, done that butI still enjoy watching these videos. I’m not so arrogant that I don’t think I can learn something from anyone.
Thank you . I'm the same way I learn something new everyday
Thank you for the video! I just picked up a vintage Massey Ferguson 204. I can't wait to start getting it fixed up!
Glad to help
Thanks ! My 1953 MF 35 still runs great !!! Love my tractor !
I use a 53 TO 30 and a 59 and a 62 Ferguson 35 daily tending produce wouldn't trade them for a new one
Looks easier than changing the oil on a car.
Good video Chris! Maintenance on your equipment is incredibly important.
It is ! People have trouble with the filters because they're different
Fantastic video. Great help! I was on the right track but your confirmation will make it easy. Thanks!
Glad to help , that's why we do this !
I just bought the same tractor, 1963 MF35, thanks for the help!!
Glad too . I think you'll be happy with it they're handy and tough
So Helpful. My husband has dementia so now I wanted to learn to run the tractor, you taught me a lot and now I still need to replace the gas sediment bowl that is leaking. Will look for videos that help me with that. Well done, even I could understand it.
There's a gasket and a screen under the bowl that's usually the problem if it's leaking around the thumb screw just replace the whole thing it's only 30.00 or so, not worth playing with all day
@@HomesteadingtheHardWaywant diesel filters part no
@@user-ov7kq6he8g BF 825 is the most common
Love these tractors
I make a living farming with three of them
I’ve got a 1955 Ferguson so easy to work on love working on them oldies I got a 1979 for f150 easy to work on Thanks for video
I like the older stuff myself , back when things were made repairable instead of replaceable
The look you had at 7:25 when you dropped that wrench🤣🤣🤣🤣 in the oil!!!
I was half way expecting it to happen , might as well show folks how it's really going to go lol
Well done. I've been working on the old Fords and Fergusons for 18 years and I wouldn't change a word of this video. I WOULD 'add' that it is always best to include cleaning the original fuel screens as well. There are 3. Also...., a note to 'newbies'....NEVER cut in a 'cannister' type fuel filter into a gravity fed system like this one. If you buy one of these old tractors that has one, GET RID OF IT. They are meant for a PRESSURIZED system. JMHO.~Eli.
The fuel screen in the tank and carb are usually long gone around here but good point , I clean the fuel bowl and screen every time I fuel up . Some inline filters will work depends if it screen or paper element on the inside if it's the wrong one your abasoulty right better off without it.thanks that's a good idea for a video
Great advice. My brother had put fuel filter on mine and my mechanic removed it! Also, just something as little as knowing I can remove oil bath filter without draining oil is helpful! I used a hose rubber washer after changing filter because I misplaced one that came with it. Been waiting to change oil to correct, but now know I can do it without draining oil. Thanks!!! Did you say there are 3 screens that should be cleaned???
When I heard the wrench hit the oils I started laughing just by the sound I knew what happened.
Lol that's why we left it in , might as well show what really happens
Me too, I can't believe he didn't cuss...I sure would have haha.
I'd love to have an old tractor like that!
They're still pretty common and not expensive
I paid 2,000$ even for mine. Exact same tractor. Works great but I'm missing the tachometer. I'd say if you are in the market for an older tractor I'd go for the MF 35 before I went after a Ford n series. Same price, but the Massey Ferguson is a bit easier to work with. Two stage clutch and pto shaft is sized right. You don't need a pto clutch. Mine came with hydraulic remote.
@@andyd2960 I like the Ferguson over the Ford myself.
Straight foward. I appreciate that.
Glad to help
bhahhahahahha....dude ya kept it cool when the wrench hit...been there done that! Great video the longer I watch!
Glad you liked it , lol if we knew how to edit probably would have cut that part out .
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!! I've had my 1972 MF135 several years and I need to do this. Have changed engine oil but had no idea about the air cleaner!! Thanks again for posting this video!!! If you get a chance I would love to know how to adjust the clutch...it has started letting out right at the top. THANKS!!!! Angel
I've got too service and adjust the clutch a 135 Monday morning , I'll try to do a video on it
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay That would be WONDERFUL!!!!! One of the loader hydraulic hoses busted today...I will try my hand at replacing it to. Any advice is much appreciated!!!
@@Angel283 spray it with penetrating oil , use a wrench to hold the side you're not taking off and sometimes a few taps with a hammer will help a lot to get it turning
Enjoyed the video brotha!
Been watching y'all over there for a while great channel! We're down in Lenoir co.
We got a 62 diesel 35 Ferguson that my grandpa bought new and we still use it quite a bit during hay season
I use this almost every day , it might be a 62 or a 60 I can't remember , they are tough no doubt and will last as long as you keep fixing it !
Wow this is great video. I think it might be cool to get some more tractor maintenence videos or related tractor content. Or perhaps some lessons and stories from tractor mechanic. I don't know. Of course do what you want. I kinda wish there was online tractor mechanic school. It does not exist as far as I know. I drive truck for a living but do grow grain in my backyard and hope to farm/Homestead one day. I recently got a 2 cycle 20hp Massey Ferguson from 80s with some kinda Japanese name engine starting with letter Y. Only have a sub soiler for it so far but hope to get a disc harrow for it before to long.
I run into a couple of problems with tractor repair videos , first one is we're just too busy I'm the only shop left in five counties that can work on the old stuff the second one is my wife does the filming . I'm glad to help if you have any questions, just email me homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com
Excellent video--I have a TO 35--I really needed to see this. Thanks so much.
Glad to help
I had a to30 Ferguson. Great tractor. I slowly switched to all IH and farmall just to be able to cultivate and side dress everything all from 1 tractor. I wasn’t using the Ferguson no more so I sent on to someone to get some use put it. Hard to beat a offset farmall for gardens and deer plots lol
Most small farms around here in the old days ran a 35 or 135 Ferguson and a 100 to 140 farmall you could tend a hundred acres no problem with that combo
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I’m in southern va and some of the local tobacco farmers here used to keep 200 to 300 acres cultivated with the 140s running 2 or 3 at a time. We had 1 here planting 1000 acres of tobacco. He ran 3 8 row transplanters at a time and 4 of the 2440 Deere with 4 row cultivators and ran 6 of those red pullers. He had 50 or more men for the topping and sucker pulling lol look up r.hart Hudson farms
@@Moorefarmalls by the time you could move allotment off the farm every one here had gone to four row . We had thirty acres of tobacco we used a super A and a 140 for it all bedding/planting to trucking
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay yea I’m steady expanding my little garden thing every year. I tried selling some this year for the 1st time and everything sold that I wanted to sell without even advertising none of it. I just sold enough to pay for the seed and fertilizer and some gas and gave the rest away to family members of what I didn’t keep. I’m gone add a few new spots in for next year. I’m gone start breaking that shortly and let it sit for the winter
I just ready to have a good tractor to tune up.. we let a 90 something model kabota 4 wheel drive slip right through our fingers . We didn't buy it because we didn't have this land yet and two mths later we bought this property. But I believe the right one will come along again. Yours is a perfect size . Y'all take care don't work to hard.
I wouldn't be too heartbroke about missing a Kubota I ran the dealership for a few years . Try to find one of the 3 F's Ford, Ferguson or Farmall or bad as I hate to say it a John Deere
Thanks I purchased my wife fatherss 35 gold belly 1958 model and need this video. Regards from Finland Europe West coast.
Glad to meet you , I checked out your videos . That's a nice old machine
Good information! Gotta keep the old girl ticking 👍
I got lucky when I got that one ! An old farmer friend of mine had it setting under a shelter for ten years or so but before that it was very well kept . So I didn't have to do much to get it right
An old Z series Continental engine!! We know that manufacturer. We have our engine rebuilt now and are having trouble getting it started. Great video Chris. Thanks!
That's right , they are about as tough as it gets this ones been rebuilt once since 59 only got a couple off hundred hours on it since . I'd been wondering how the flat head build was going I've had a run of worn out distributors lately hook a dwell meter to it might help .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Brand new distributor, new wiring, new coil, timing set. Checked continuity in all wiring. Checked grounding. Sparks are not bright blue, but there. Rebuilt carb. Just cant get it to do more than pop a few times. Very frustrating! Gonna have a local tractor mechanic check it out next week.
@@contentment164 could be timing or point gap , not getting spark at the right time with all you've done to it would be easy to have something a little off ,those old motors can be aggravating especially flat heads . I worried with a cub farmall a whole 10 hour day to get it right this past week because it had the wrong NEW carburetor on it and the didn't bother to tell me they changed it and it hadn't run since ( jets to big ) converted it to 12 volt then it wouldn't crank
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I gapped the plugs and points. This engine is the easiest thing in the world to time...two dots on the cam gear with one dot between them on the crank gear to mesh the gears and time the engine. Flywheel goes on only one way. All double-checked. Been dinking with it for a week now and can't get it to do anything. It may be the carb. I noticed that the number on the Zenith carb may not be prescribed for this engine/governor combination. But it ran before we rebuilt it. Thanks, Chris.
@@contentment164 you'll get it figured out ! I timed one wrong one time lol
Crescent got lubed up good !
Don't have to worry about it rusting that's for certain
Love your farm!
Thank you
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I also agree that it is important to drop a wrench in the old oil, I do it all the time and it seems to help... keep me humble!
@@pseudopetrus yep , what always gets me is it can fall off a front tire , hood , seat don't matter it goes in the drain pan
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Like magic!
Good looking tractor I like it
Thanks I got lucky finding it , it's old but not worn out
Thanks for the engine service demonstration, I'll put it to good use. I have a TO35 gas. Question about the water pump. Mine is not leaking, but I have play in the fan shaft. Parts diagram shows a pulley assemble sliding over the water pump shaft, held on by a spring clip?
Most of the time the pulley is pressed on , depends on if a cast iron ( really thick) or stamped steel . If its pressed on it'll come on the new pump normally .
I know someone who had one of these since new. they never changed the oil, they'd just rebuild the engine when it wore out from lack of oil changes. When I serviced it the oil bath air cleaner was caked with mud. I had to scrape it out and soak the element in kerosene.
That's more common than you would think . I've had people tell me they don't have an air cleaner because there's not one listed in the parts book
Great video and great information! Thank you. How many quarts of oil? I have a 56 TO35 and it still runs strong!
Depends on which engine 6 or 8 quarts
Great Video, i have one of these 35's and I was just wondering what kind of oil pressure you should expect to see when running it?
If the engine is in half way decent shape 10-20 psi at idle and 35-40 ish at throttle. Anything over 7 psi at idle is safe I like for them to come up to 20 at half throttle, weight of oil your running has a lot to do with it , it'll be higher with straight 40 wt than 30 . Diesels usually run a little higher pressure than gas
Nar’thn hello... nice information. Good video 👍🏻
Many thanks figured you would like an English tractor
Good little old tractors.
Yes they are ! Wouldn't trade them for a brand new one
I got one with a dodgy clutch - you have a video on trying to adjust ? Cheers man from australia
I do it's not very good though but it'll give you an idea of what to do
Ole country boy like me !
Great video, I just serviced my 35 deluxe with your help. I noticed my exhaust manifold is cracked, I believe it is cast. Any advice or tricks to fix it or do I need a new manifold?
A new manifold would be the easiest they're hard to weld or braise usually just crack worse . You can get an aftermarket one fairly cheap
Thanks for the video... Can you create a video on how to change the fuel filter in an old MF 65?
I can , have a 165 to service this week it's the same style . Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have what looks to be the exact same tractor! MF 35 deluxe gas probably early 1960’s. Could you please do a video showing how to change the hydraulic fluid?
It's on the to do list , hopefully we can get one out soon
Id second that request. Great video by the way.
@@ericcartmill4615 thank you , I am intending to do a video next time I have one to do at the shop
Hi Chris. Wondering if you have any videos on operating a 35 Ferguson. The same one you had in your video, 6 years ago, servicing the 35 Ferguson. I am new to this, we have an old 35, but never operated one before.
Thankyou
Steven
I don't but I can try to answer any questions you have
Do a video on hydraulic filter and oil change
Chris I have a MF diesel A3.152 Perkins. What engine oil do you recommend? It's got under 1000 hours on it and I don't use it hard. Gets cold up here. People seem to think Shell Rotella 15W-40 is good to use.
I also need to change out the transmission and hydraulic case one of these days. I know that used to be straight mineral oil.
Rotella is fine or a good quality 30 HD
Thank you
Would like to see a tune up points and no spark troubleshooting
Its definitely on the to do list . Thanks for watching
My Uncle in India has this tractor and if I'm not mistaken its been running since my dad was a kid and still runs very well. It can also take a beating. The hose going from the air filter to the engine block was old and frayed and had a giant 2-inch gash in it. I was very worried so I rapped a thick plastic bag around it and tied it to seal it. Even without the covering, the engine was strong enough to basically run without a filter. It is probably my favorite tractor.
They are very tough !
Great video. Since you repair Masseys, do you where I can get a replacement throttle lever ball joint assembly? I think the part number is 834042M1. It's for a MF135 with Perkins gas engine. Thanks.
You can match them up at any good parts supply . I think it's 1/4 fine thread on the shaft and 1/4 course on the ball . The replacement may be a little longer than the original but there's enough thread to make it work
Thanks for the great info Chris. I bought a MF 35 last weekend as my first tractor. The previous owner just recently put a new carb on it but I noticed shortly after I drove it home that the carb was leaking. I think it is a loose fitting, but haven't confirmed yet. I also checked the oil and there was quite a bit of gasoline in the crankcase. Any ideas why? Float need adjusted? Running too rich? Could it be related to the leak? Also, there is some oil that will drip from the valve cover breather tube when it is running. Is that normal? Thanks!
Needle valve in the carb is sticking partially open after you shut off the engine. Could be trash , bad seat, or float set to high . Carb is flooding and running into the crank case .changing the oil and cutting the fuel off at the tank when its not running might take care of it and yes the oil drip is because the oil is diluted with gas .its not an uncommon problem. Glad to help if you have anymore questions just ask oh and I should tell you these ( new ) carbs they sell usually don't work right , you might be better to find an old one and rebuild it
Thanks! I have a service manual ordered so once I get it I'll try adjusting the carb. In the meantime I will change the oil and turn off fuel like you mentioned. The seller actually gave me the old carb in a box when I bought it. He just put the new one on a few weeks ago. I think the new one actually says made in China...ugh. It would be great to see a video on how to tune one of these carbs (hint hint) :) Thanks again, sir.
@@cjf3838 lol those China carburetors are a thorn in my side ! Most people think it will cheaply fix the problem but it never does . Thanks for the video suggestion
Homesteading the Hard Way
Hi Chris. I changed the oil, fixed fuel leak and changed the oil in the air filter. It was awful! There was so much debris in it (including a whole peanut - in the shell!). I’m guessing a mouse put it there at some point. I still have smoke coming out of the breather tube that dumps down from the valve cover. Is this something I need to be concerned about? Do I need the head reworked?
Thanks again for your advice.
C.J. from Illinois
Do you have a video on cleaning or changing the points, condenser, etc for a TO-35 ? Thanks
No but I can probably talk you through it .
I have a 35 , The air Cannister come apart for cleaning.Just take a straight screw driver and pop the inside out for cleaning .
It's not supposed to , if the metal packing is loose it's pulling outside air and dirt directly into the engine.
I just found this video, I have the same tractor but it has the perkins diesel in it
Hi, I enjoyed your video even learned a few things. I have a 1956 TO-35 with the front loader. It also has power steering. However the hoses are missing. The pump has a hose from the pressure side to the return and the fittings at the steering column are caped off. I ran a pressure test on the pump and found it would only produce about 500 psi My book calls for 1100psi I tried to adjust the relief valve but found no change in the pressure up or down.
The price of a new pump is out of reach. Is it possible to rebuild this pump?
I've never seen one rebuilt that worked I've tried taking 2 or 3 to make one good one several times with no luck. Most inexpensive thing would be to replace the gearbox with an aftermarket manual one . I think they are in the 500.00 dollar range and the pump is probably not the whole problem I assume that's why it was bypassed
Do you recommend SAE 30HD for the Perkins diesel 3.152? Thanks for the video!
You can run 30 HD in the diesel but most people use 15w40
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thank you. I enjoy your videos.
When you had the wrong wrench to take out the oil plug I started to laugh because I immediately thought "It never fails, as soon as someone is watching you - something is going to go wrong". LOL.
Lol miss Sheila that's right , who would have thought it would be metric all the rest are 3/4
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay It boggles the mind when you take out your toolbox and start working only to find you have to have 2 sets of tools to do a simple job; 1 Imperial and 1 Metric - twice the cost in tools. I think it's one way the makers of all machines try to discourage people from doing their own repairs and maintenance so their service departments can stay in business. I've heard the service departments for autos makes 3 times the income as the sales of the autos. But what do I know. LOL
@@sheilam4964 when I ran the shop at a dealership that was very true you only sold new tractors so you could work on them later , with the new computer systems you can't hardly work on them at all yourself that's why I preach getting older equipment
@@sheilam4964 I can remember when a tractor mechanic didn't need any metric tools lol
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Me too. And that means you didn't need as many tools either back in those days.
How many quarters took ?
So just 4 quarts to fill it back up? I just bought a 1958 gas 35 deluxe and needs a new generator. Can I swap that out for a single wire alternator and are they standard 12v system? Thx.
It holds six same as a Perkins , yes it's 12 volt but I don't recommend a one wire . Use the Delco with the flat two wire plug and a diode .
I bought a new front spindle, bearing kit, and used the same hub. And i can not for the life of me get the hub to pull up snug on the collar of the spindle. It lacks about 1"-1 1/2". Any thoughts?
Try to put the bearings on without the hub see if they don't stop short if so use some sand paper to clean up the spindle , if not the race isn't driven far enough in the hub .or the seal is stopping it it drives on the spindle then put the hub on Assuming the spindle is made right bad parts are more common than you would think but its probably the seal they are a tight fit on that spindle I use a piece of pipe to drive them on
What about checking the coolant, brakes, and clutch pedal for travel?
I suspect most folks don't have to be shown how to check coolant , this was a by request video pretty much on the air cleaner and canister oil filter . On a customer's tractor we do all that and adjust the carb and set the points if they request it
I’m thinking about purchasing a Massey Ferguson 135 diesel, is there anything I should look out for?
Make sure it has a Perkins engine and power steering , diesels are notorious for being hard to steer . The pivot pin in the front axial is normally worn out ( about a 500.00 fix ) it already being converted to an alternator would be good , and check the lift really well if you can , get it hot and make sure it is controllable the pumps give a little trouble as well as the draft control rod getting bent . Check for a lot of blow by from the engine it will have a hollow echoing sound when its running if its close to needing a rebuild . Hope that helps they are some of the toughest tractors ever built and the cheapest to fix
Great video. We needed to know how to do that. We also have a Ferguson TO35. Unfortunately it was caught in flood waters and we need to get it running. Yes the flood waters completely covered the tractor. I know we need to drain the oil and replace the oil. Have had people say to put diesel in first to help with the water and drain the diesel out. Is this what we need to do?
And what about the distributor, plugs and such?
Do we have to drain the hydraulics also?
We are not mechanics in Any sense at all. Any help is deeply appreciated.
It could be a real problem , we have floods like that here . How long ago was it flooded and was it fresh water ?
The flood was February this year. Cumberland River flooded 30 year high.
@@steviefr7870 as soon as you can drain the oil and hydrologic fluid and flush everything with diesel fuel including the gas tank . Let me warn you , might have to replace everything electrical , starter , alternator , etc it can be a total loss . Make sure the engine isn't stuck first and look for cracks, if the water froze in the engine or transmission . When you get started on it email me and I'll talk you through checking it
Nothing froze. We are in southern Kentucky cold weather but no freeze since flood.
Where is the hydraulic stuff located? Dang sounds like a real job for someone, not sure I'm capable. No alternator, generator.
I havent checked the battery yet. Plan to take battery out and see if it will hold a charge, brand new.
Thank you so much for your time we appreciate you.
@@steviefr7870 two plugs under the tractor , it can be a big deal and a lot of money especially if not done quickly . But it's worth a shot , I've had some that a carb rebuild ,points, new battery and a good flushing took care of and some that were scrapped from rust and sediment in the engine and drive train . Take the drain plugs and the spark plugs out and turn the motor over by hand
How to service engine coolant system...Proper drain, flush, refill radiator on this model
can you tell me what a wear block is and what it does on a 1958 to35 massey and why the cover would have broken the blots off please
Drawing a blank on a ( wear block ) but tell which cover and I can probably help . I've seen lift covers break bolts and seen a shift cover break once . Most common thing to break would be the four big bolts that hold the lift cyl under the cover that's usually because the lift arms froze in the bushings , Ya know somebody might call them wear blocks
Ok think I figured out what you are talking about , on power steering on top of the rack it pushed the housing up broke the bolts ? That was a over pressure situation
I just bought A770 Oliver And the actual locked up what should I do
If you're saying the axil is locked I'd check the brakes first if the engines locked pull injectors/ plugs fill the cylinders with diesel fuel and transmission fluid let it soak a week then bar the crank back and forth
Thanks for your video. I have a MF 35 Utility Massey Ferguson model 100. I need to replace the battery & don't know how to remove the hood. I know how to get to the fuel tank but the battery Can not fit through opening.
If it has a brush guard you might have to remove or loosen it for clearance but the hood lifts from the back .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ours has a hydronic pump in front. The hood hits & we can't lift it all the way.
@@Cholosmom you'll have to take the two pivot bolts out at the front or the hood and hopefully it'll slide far enough forward and turn enough to slip the battery out . Be careful of the radiator. Once you go forward the whole hood should rotate a little to one side
Thank you so much, we'll try that.
I see online that a lot of people run Rotella 15w40 in these. Why do not recommend it? Is it really that bad for the motor?
It's a little thin if the engines good and hot the oil pressure drops depending on how worn the engine is it can be enough to cause damage plus they do better with a high detergent oil . That and I'm doing it professionally and can't have it have less oil pressure after a service like I said we use some 40 HD in some really worn farmalls
1960 MF T35 stuck in reverse. How did I fix it
Take the fill plug out of the shift cover . Then take a long thin pry bar on the shift rails one of the forward gears has gone past the detents and won't let it come out probably second . Be gentle you'll see the set screws that's the best place to put a little pressure once you get everything back in line it'll free up prying on reverse won't do any good one of the other rails moved out of place happens a lot if you don't stop completely before shifting to reverse. It's a five minute fix but it's hard to explain how to do it
I have a 1958 TO35 I need to know how to flush the hydraulics, can you do a video on maintenance and flushing? My 3 point hitch goes up but will not go down when I start the tractor. Shut the tractor off and then it slowly goes down.
Control valve on the hydraulic pump is stuck , might can go in the right hand plate and unstick it . If not going to have to pull the lift cover and possibly the pump . Flushing probably won't help
Homesteading the Hard Way should I flush with desiel fuel?
@@teresaledford3863 you can , but we usually change it twice once with super cheap hyd oil ( get it hot ) drain then add the 90 WT mineral oil ( not SAE 90 gear oil ) people get confused by the markings on the dip stick . Not really much to flush just a pump and cylinder, go in the pto shifter plate to change the filter and two plugs under the tractor
Do you use the spent oil to heat your shop?
No honestly can't stand the smell
...then left the key on overnight. battery discharged but coil HOT. too old 4 this, still kinda fun though. Think now need new coil as won't start. 6v or 12V is the question. Glad not using 4 a living.
Lol i do make a living using Ferguson's and fixing John Deere's Check the points first they usually burn up before the coil . I have the best luck with a 12 volt coil and an RU11 external resistor but it calls for an internal resistor 12 volt
On a TO35, what would cause it to leak the mineral oil alot out of the seap hole on the bottom of the transmission?
The seals on the transmission input shaft most likely , pretty common problem . Parts are not bad but a lot of labor, transmission has to come off the tractor so the lower shaft can go back to get the input shaft out
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thank ya Sir for the reply. I probably wouldn't be able to do that myself, don't even a good tree to pull a motor the way we use to do...haha. It leaks maybe a couple gallons a season, but the g1 90w is getting up $60-70 a 5 gallon bucket now. Is there any type of conditioner that might help with it?
@@the-papaw not that I know of , I would wait until it needed a clutch if it was mine honestly . I have to buy it in 2.5 gallon jugs but we don't use much of it now days ,only in the TO 20s and 30s most of the 35s have been changed to hydraulic oil ( not that I recommend that )
Hey Chris
I have a 53 Ferguson 35. Have problem starting it. Turn key to start nothing happens. Have changed the ignition switch and key no change then the solenoid no change. Battery can jumpstart it with direct connection to the starter. Wondering now if there is a problem with the transmission ignition interlock. Range lever and gear shifter are both in neutral but failure to start with no sound same as when trying to start in gear. Any suggestions in possible Interlock or other explanation would be much appreciated.
First thing check the battery cable at the starter with a volt meter ( a 5 dollar one from harbor freight works fine )and make sure it's not a bad cable or connection them check the ignition wire with the key in start , neutral switches give trouble usually the shaft in the transmission . Most of them have been bypassed but that's " unsafe " so I legally can't recommend that but you can put a plumber type clutch switch on it instead
Thanks for the information and speedy reply. Have subscribed to channel to see what other 35 info you might offer.
@@drifters_end glad to help , that's why we do this . If you have any questions just ask up here or send an email . I don't do that many tractor videos most are by request from viewers but it seems we have helped a bunch of people
No 3165?!?!?!?!?!?!?? :) just kidding my friend! Good info! Always amazes me how many people over-torque oil plugs... I have seen so many of those! Dang metric! :) C'mon Chris, you know they put that spring in that oil filter just for fun! There's no real reason for it... manufacturers put arbitrary parts in machines for no reason all the time! :) Seeing all that dirt come out of that air cleaner... imagine the scoring that would give a cylinder! Excellent run-through Chris!
I would love to have a backhoe like yours no doubt , I might get a chance at one sooner or later
I am going to love to have it! :) So looking forward to that thing being fixed... especially since you told me they were real nice in function according to your friend. When are we going to buy common land somewhere between us so we can be neighbors? :) I'll meet ya halfway south.. :)
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork lol I was thinking south America ! I liked the 65 I had was a good machine just didn't like 4 stick controls
I like it even better! I wouldn't mind a beautiful latina "southern girl"... that's more southern than southern! :) and warm climates are so nice!
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Brazil brother Brazil
I wonder if the to-35 has flat tapped cam followers and likes zinc in the oil
Yes they have tappets like most older engines . Only problem we have running 15w40 or 10w30 in the gas burners is sometimes the oil pressure will drop when the engine is good and warm . 30 HD usually has the same additives as 15/40
It worked
You didn't have the canister in the groove, happens a lot
What kind oil did you use and how many quarts
30 HD 6 qts
Everything applies for the diesel version?
Diesel usually has a paper element air filter and a couple of fuel filters . Oil and filter are very similar
Diesel usually has a paper element air filter and a couple of fuel filters . Oil and filter are very similar
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay thanks!!!
What year is the tractor
That one's a 59 I think , I have three a 59 , 61 and 62 they all look identical
I recently bought a massey.... tried tracking down exact year with serial number... I cannot find out anything about my massey... I do know it's a mf35 3cyl. Perkins diesel 5 gauges on the dash... but would love to learn more if any of y'all could help me. Thanks
there's a plate on the dash with patent numbers and dates the last one will at least be close to the year or the year of manufacture . That's a 152 Perkins a really good and dependable engine and probably means you have a TO 35 deluxe with a 2 stage clutch the only option you could be missing is power steering . They are Tough machines That have stood the test of time
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay thank you so much bro for the reply and the feed back. The last 2 digits Are 47.. but that's not even close to the year that the guy told me it was...
@@reneuriartejr5764 it's not a 47 for certain , the plates beside the gauges if it's still there . It will have a list of patent numbers with a date beside each , the bottom one is the year of manufacture or close
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay OK cool. Plate says. Mf35 snm 251647 gives a list of 11 u.s patents.canada 1948-59. Detroit Michigan made in the USA. I really appreciate the help bro. Thank you. I want to find a forum and join.
@@reneuriartejr5764 that means it's a 59 or 60
I do it every time lol
Fuel filter ?
It doesn't have one. All it has is the bowl under the tank just take it off and dump it out. Unless the tanks rusty they don't need much attention
Would my 1951 to 30 b the same
Really similar ,oil filter is turned to the back and oil plug is on the back of the oil pan .
The oildrain and oilfill its the same of 3 syl diesel , but not the oilfilter
Drains on the bottom of most 152 Perkins and the filter housing hangs down and the filter is a little smaller , most around here have been changed to a spin on like a 135
No hydraulics?
Dip sticks on the right side at the back of the step . Uses 90 wt mineral oil , usually sold as Ford hydraulic oil . It doesn't use 90 wt gear oil , it says 90 SAE on the dipstick causes a lot of confusion
if the oil filter leaks after service, loosen until it will just rotate. only takes 1/8 turn or so. retighten. Guess how I know this works?
That works if the canister isn't in the groove , won't help a bit if the o ring is bad or to thick to fit or a half inch to big like some of the new ones
Everything worthwhile I've learned in my life, was told to me by a man with a hillbilly accent.
Lol hope I helped some
who sells the filters ?
forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1411973&highlight=
i dropped the link to mine below
Napa ,Auto value, Carquest etc . Just about anywhere besides Oriley's or auto zone
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay i need the whole canister the piece inside broke off when i tightened the nut too tight
@@HoodHandyman oh ! I would check on a spin on filter adapter , if you have room you can do away with that remote filter and put it on the block or buy a filter base ( hydraulic shops or farm stores have them ) and make some new lines, high temp rubber hydraulic lines will work fine . I've had to do that before
What about the hydraulic
It's inside the rear end housing , not part of a normal service . It's more of a stainer than a filter . If your asking about the fluid the dip stick will be by your right heel sitting on the tractor
anything different with a mf 175
Not much , a couple of grease fittings on the steering behind the grill and one on the clutch pedal . It's probably got a paper air filter but that's about it
After you change the oil, warm it up and take a sample of the oil and it will be black.😮😂
Not normally on a gas engine unless it's sludged up .
I can’t count how many times I spilled oil all over me when cleaning those old oil bath air cleaners z
Lol I had someone leave a very long comment about how stupid I was for getting those " chemicals " all over me . I assumed he had never worked on anything