How to Frame a Basement Wall
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- When you build a wall for your finished basement there's a lot going on. It's more challenging than framing one outside to, for instance, build a shed.
This video breaks down some tips I use to make the process fast, accurate and fun. There are some tips that I think are useful for pros, new carpenters and remodelers, or DIYers binge-watching videos like this for mining home improvement tips (don't worry, us pros do it too.)
I prefer to use wood when framing a wall. It's easier to cut, faster to move, way easier to fasten and 10-million times easier to customize around pipes, windows, doors, and the umpteen other obstructions in remodeling a house. For more ideas, visit: www.woodnaturally.com
The screws I love are www.SpaxUS.com and the insulation you see here (which I also love) is www.Roxul.com
To read more about tools, design, how-top or for our podcast, visit: www.MyFixitUpLife.com
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I am helping a buddy on a project today. I have never framed anything. Thanks for the simple showmanship to get the base understanding.
Hey, thank you. That's a day-maker right there. Good luck. Hope it turns out well.
Just something I like. I like to be told the instructions and watch the video instead of reading the instructions and then having to watch the video again
If I even remotely understood what that meant, I'd be happy to try and help out. In the absence of written instructions to compare anything to, I'll just be over here.
Agree and could do without the stupid MUSIC too.
Good video. I like the tools you showed. The viewers would benefit from step-by-step instructions. Keep making content!!
Step-by-step, yes. Thank you for the constructive criticism. It's appreciated. There's no road map for content creation so I did my best. The newer videos do follow more of a step-by-step model. The How to Build a Shed is almost 40-minutes long. Top-Down Deck Framing is three parts. Alas, no help to you if you're framing a basement.
Man I don't think I learned Anything from this.
I was thinking the same thing.... what a disappointment.
The guy is a total tool 😂
Literally nothing was explained...
no information.....total waste of time
What are you talking about? He showed you evreything you need to know in the proper order with the proper tools... A god damn moron could frame a basement with this video.
Love you dudes born with a full set of plans.
This man knows his wood
Shouldn't we all?
Umm. Were there instructions??? I must've missed them.
It's not a college course. These are just tips.
Best video I’ve seen
Appreciate it. We try.
Hi
Thanks for your great video, May
I ask one question
Should you removed the insulation first and then framing, then fill the insulation? Thanks
In this case, no. The insulation blanket installed by the builder adds a nice, continuous layer of insulation plus a vapor barrier.
So how do you start? What are the steps? What did you teach?
This video isn't a class in carpentry skills. It's tips for framing assuming you have a basic knowledge of what's going on. I didn't mean to be misleading.
“In this video I’m going to show you how to frame a basement wall…”
**
“…and that’s all there is to it folks!”
80s montage! Bring it. Stallone only needed to train to beat Apollo and Clubber, for 2-mins. Turn up the music! - I say at the outset there are a million steps. We do what we can.
That white tarp looking vapor barrier… is that R11 insulation underneath thats tied into the foundation wall with a rams set fastener nail and clip?
I don't know the R-rating, but yes, it's fiberglass on concrete with a vapor barrier to the conditioned side. - This was a new, big builder home so the HO got to purchase various infrastructure options so that if the basement was finished in the future, the gut stuff what there.
@@myfixituplife that’s exactly why I’m asking. I just purchased a new home and that insulation with vapor barrier was nailed into the concrete foundation wall. I removed all of it patched everything and the added a waterproof breathable mortar coating to the foundation wall. I was going to reinstall the insulation with vapor barrier before finishing the basement. Sounds like that is an acceptable way to install insulation and a vapor barrier.
This entire show is like a toy boat that floats aimlessly around a bathtub. It actually raises more questions than it answers. For real.
Like what? It is an overview for sure. They all are or they'd be 30-hours long. Whachugot? If I can help, I will.
@@myfixituplife Not trying to be harsh here, but this is labeled a "how to" video yet there aren't very many aspects of framing a basement that are really learned here and some of your tips are dangerous to framing newbs. A spattering of tips here and there yes. But will someone really know how to put up a moisture barrier for example? How many inches to frame from the wall? Why there needs to be a moisture barrier? What about plumbing and wiring considerations? Framing around the window? Etc... So here's what I got. Make several videos and get into some details on each aspect. Also, maybe be a little more careful wielding that circular saw on camera. You certainly don't want aspiring DIYers cutting boards on a stack of lumber that way. Get a table saw and show it the right way, not the quick and dirty way.
Dude - I love the toy boat metaphor. And thank you. Look, I go from zero here. While I've been telling stories for a long time, I don't always get it right. I appreciate your comments. Next basement (it's decks as far as the eye can see right now, thank god) I'll dig in harder.
@@dancnkc The short answer, sir, is that there is only one of me. Hell, I'd go on for a month producing all this content. But my mortgage company doesn't care. They want to be paid and I get paid when I fling in studs, not blab to the camera. I try to do both. Sometimes it aint perfect.
Plus he almost cuts his toes off HOLDING A 2x4 WITH HIS FOOT WHILE COTTING IT WITH A CIRCULAR SAW !!!! Not a great thing to SHOW people looking for advice ! As a PROFESSIONAL Carpenter , I almost puked watching this video.
This is like an SNL skit...........bravo!
YES! I get more people telling me I'm an a-hole because I didn't meet some secret criteria they have...wonderful. All I can say is I try to do good work. Thank you.
My basement has that blanket wrap insulation as well. I guess it's more of a moisture barrier. Will it cause a mold problem? And what type of insulation would you add between the blanket wrap and the drywall?
I have the same question . Do we even need another insulation between the insulation wrap and the drywall ???
I used 2” thick sheets styrofoam filler yes you have to cut it but it does collect moisture and you don’t loose 3 inch of wall space on all the walls they are placed in between the 2x4s best insulation.
Someone used this type of insulation in my basement I had to throw it all out it was wet and smelled.
That insulation is more vapor barrier than thermal. I'd add ROCKWOOL between the studs and as fire stop. The stuff is great. - th-cam.com/video/9QI03N-ldeY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/9QI03N-ldeY/w-d-xo.html
Foam board is a good insulation + vapor barrier system. Not cheap, but it works.
Some applications I agree with your method.... however it is much slower.... the gap you are referring to on the top plate does not matter as the wall non load bearing.
Thanks
Yup. It's not about the bearing, it's about getting the lumber on the line. I'm not sure what my way is much slower than, but it works for me. I appreciate you checking in.
Man folks are harsh. A good youtube video is concise, needs to be stopped and rewatched, packed with information i dont subscribe to much, but i did here. If the trolls are so good, why dont you all make one better. I bet he will link to yours, and I'll subscribe as well.
Much appreciated. We come from an editorial background and we’re not in this to be seen, rather to share what we’ve learned. - The trolls pretty much have no game.
Thanks for the quick and concise video, and appreciate the tip on the header hanger jig. I'm raising some walls in the basement but I might need to switch to the build-in-place method since the floor is tapering over an inch.
Thank you. I have yet to frame a basement where the floor is flat enough to tip walls. Or there aren't a million other obstructions like ducts, pipes, wires. Stud-by-stud is my preferred method. Let's see some pics at our FB or IG. Good luck and don't forget the vapor barrier. :)
Framing directly to the concrete seems like a bad idea. What happens when the house settles and or the concrete heaves. Everywhere I've lived you have to have a gap at the bottom of the wall and the floor plate. Here in my town now, it is 1 1/2" with pins (40D nails) every foot to hold it and to let the floor float. Strange that a city would let you do that, hopefully it doesnt push the house off the foundation eventually.
Hey Stacy - I've built different things all over the country. While I'm hardly a new home builder, the soil conditions you mention--it's not the concrete that moves, it's whatever's around it--do not exist anywhere I've built that I am aware of. If anything, it's the opposite where I work--lots of clay. - Where you CANNOT fasten to the floor is in the presence of a perimeter drain. That plate-to-floor connection jut be glued. - And your concrete must be 1/2 liquid to travel that distance. - Wow
@@myfixituplife Different areas have different requirements I guess, I'm not knocking you, it just surprised me because they are so crazy about it where I am in Colorado.
@@stacyglasgow444 soils are different in different parts of the country. I think "expansive" are more prevalent where you are, which is also a slab-build situation as far as I know???, You dig a hole around where I live and the layers of immutable clay are a real thing. These foundations don't stand a chance of moving.
Hey, Mark do you live close to P.A.? or do you know anyone that in the area of P.A?
PA
My top plate will be perpendicular to the joists. Do I need blocking between each joist?
Yessir. 24-inches on center should be plenty. Don't forget fireblocking and a vapor barrier.
@@myfixituplife Why can't I nail the top plate to the joist with a pneumatic nailer?
@@peterbergeris6510 I might've misunderstood you. You can totally gun nail the studs to the top pl8. I pop 'em in with toe nails. Two on one side, one on the other.
@@myfixituplife Thanks.On fire blocking it may depend on your township or city. Besides blocking , I can use roxul safe n sound which I have already used in rim joists with fire block caulk. There was never any fire block in my house so I doubt if required.
@@peterbergeris6510 You're on it. ROCKWOOL is essentially fireproof. I've been to the factory where they make it and the volcano they put it through is beyond description. -Different governing authorities require different systems, but for my money, if you've got it jammed as needed "rotten cotten" is good. - Some towns want a vertical break in the studs--ROCKWOOL works--every 10-feet, but that seems overkill. - However it shakes out, it seems you're on the right track. I appreciate you care about what you're doing.
Before you ever show framing a basement, you have to discuss what the situation is with the existing walls and slab.... what's under that slab?...what's on the other side of the walls? That goes a long way in deciding how the inside can be finished. For example, If you have a lot of gravel, then a vapor barrier, then hard foam under the slab, you won't need to create a subfloor on top the slab before putting the walls in the basement on it... but if you don't have that situation, you might consider it depending on the water table or how warm you expect the floor to be with whatever finished flooring you use. In this video a plastic vapor barrier is used on the walls, presumably because there is nothing but ground against the walls (and a little gravel by the footing). If the outside of the walls had a proper setup of a dimpled barrier followed by hard foam, then what's needed on the inside would be quite different. IF you are ever building a house from scratch, always put insulation under the slab and outside the walls. And that includes the 1st/2nd floor walls. As for the roof, if you are using trusses/don't plan on using it as a living space, then always use "raised-heel" trusses and you can load up the attic with insulation all the way to the edge where the top plate is.
I love the all-pro knowledge base Cougar Land. I'm not sure an exterior insulation makes a difference as it relates to an interior vapor barrier--other than you might not need one. If my thinking is correct, more insulation means that there is no (or minimized) intersection of warm and cold where condensation could occur. However, the homeowner in this case has no idea if their exterior stem walls are insulated. Probably not since this vapor barrier was fiberglass on the other side. I usually drape 6-mil plastic between stem wall and insulated framed wall. - This house is a 10-year old big builder house with 4-inch slab (I did a bathroom in here too, so I could see it in sump pits). Up to snuff with gravel and vapor barrier. - For older homes, the first question I ask is if the basement is musty. If so, I always encourage adding an interior perimeter drain system. That alone will take vast amounts of moisture out of a thin slab with near-zero drainage. - I'm an insulation nut too. Under and around the slab and stemwalls makes perfect sense in a new build and pays the house back forever. - Awesome insights.
Solid advice, love that top plate, one-man hanger!
Thanks brother. Necessity is mother of invention. High praise from a real-dealer like you too.
Thanks for the tips and your time!
Hey Ryan - This is a day-maker. Thank you. New video is up if you're interested.. Deck building: Guard posts - th-cam.com/video/ZRol1IQl8Fs/w-d-xo.html
If my basement has packed stone walls instead of concrete blocks or concrete walls, do I need to put the 6mil plastic?
Almost 100%. Check with your inspector. -- Stone "rubble" walls are designed to leak. It's possible--probable--a perimeter drain would be an advisable first step. -- A little info here -- th-cam.com/video/EAGeJ86rhrI/w-d-xo.html
We were told by the builder of our house to remove that outer layer of plastic from the insulation against the concrete before we installed any studs. Do you know why they would have tool us that?
Hey Honda Guy - It seems like the builder should know where the plastic goes and it shouldn't be your responsibility. However--and it depends on where you live; I'm in the Northeast--there should be a vapor barrier (plastic) between the concrete and the back of the insulation.
@@myfixituplife kinda what I figured. I'm in Utah. It's not nearly as wet here as it is there but I'm sure it should be between the concrete and anything against it.
@@hondaguy9153 Just call the local building department and ask what the detail is in your climate. Free. Easy. Local.
Where can I find that vapor barrier insulation you have on the wall
The home builder installed it. Call a pro lumber yard where you live and inquire. They'll surely know.
How would you frame a basement that has both concrete block exterior walls and wood framed exterior walls. The basement is only partially below grade at the front and then above grade at the back
Hey Jon - I'd probably hang a 6-mil plastic vapor barrier between whatever the basement wall assembly is. One was already installed here. Then I'd frame the walls about an inch out from the existing structure, insulated and clad. I think I have some more detail in this video - th-cam.com/video/huetTo3VWz0/w-d-xo.html - And this one - th-cam.com/video/9QI03N-ldeY/w-d-xo.html
what kind of insulation do you use in-between the studs & over the basement wrap insulation?
Hey Mark - I'm Mark too. The vapor barrier insulation you see on the wall now was there from the builder. It's a sheet of something. Fiberglass on the back side and some kind of semi-permeable something or other on the front. Between the studs I used my very favorite ROCKWOOL. It costs more to buy but that is made up for in like an hour because it is so much faster to install. For my vapor barrier, I use 6-mil plastic hung from the framing - See this video - th-cam.com/video/EAGeJ86rhrI/w-d-xo.html - Insulation tips here - th-cam.com/video/9QI03N-ldeY/w-d-xo.html
Hi new to your channel. I have two rooms to be completed in an unfinished basement. One home theater and one office. Both with doors. Can you guide me to your right videos.
Jack - Not sure we have anything on that. Glad you are here. - Your challenges are to make everything square and plumb. PT bottom plate. I do have some framing tips on that here - th-cam.com/video/EAGeJ86rhrI/w-d-xo.html
@@myfixituplife thank you. Will look into it
Unique video because you share good tips for specific situations you come across. This shows your experience nicely
Thank you. We appreciate that. Hope this video helped you!
It does show your experience...none.
Even I know this is incorrect. Wall should be built on floor, then raised up into place. Toenailing every stud makes for a weaker wall. Build wall on floor and you don't need to toenail.
Partition walls like this are not structural and stick framing is fine. Pre-nailed and raised is not always possible in existing rooms where there may not be room to tilt the wall up into place.
Wrong. Sorry.
Correct.
It's not much of a how-to video if you aren't giving any "how-to" along the way.
Room for improvement for sure. It's hard to get every single aspect of every single thing in there. It's hard to know what other people need to know. If you have questions, I can try an help out here in the comments. Point you to other videos, etc.
@@myfixituplife "It's hard to know what other people need to know" ......... Well for starters, how to frame a basement.
Hi there - I see you are framing over the blanket insulation wrap, which mirrors my current project. Do you use roxul to insulate the wall frame? If so, do you just leave the existing blanket wrap alone, or cut slits in it prior to wall cavity insulation installation? Thanks!
Lucas - Good to hear from you. Yes, I use the Roxul to insulate the stud bays (wall frame). The insulation blanket provides some R-value but it's main purpose---and it was already installed by the home builder on this project---is a vapor barrier. So, I don't advise cutting slits in it. Just leave it as is. If there is condensation between the back of the wall frame and the vapor barrier, you want the vapor barrier in tact to keep it from contacting the concrete. -- Here's a video with some tips to speed up the Roxul install. Let me know what you think. And, a new basement reno video is coming soon - th-cam.com/video/9QI03N-ldeY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the reply - much appreciated. So you are saying it is ok to place roxul in the wall cavity against the existing vapor barrier (blanket insulation)? Is that mainly due to roxul not being faced? There is not any evidence of moisture now, but i want to make sure I don't create any! I viewed an older video on youtube with conflicting info - they say to cut slits in the existing barrier (blanket wrap), and insulate the wall cavity with faced fiberglass. I believe that's only because he is using faced? What do you think? Thanks for the link and info - very helpful!
@@rottenL you should be using unfaced fiberglass insulation. Otherwise you will end up trapping moisture in the stud bay
I thought I was watching a video about how to frame walls... Instead it was a porn intro
We do our best to serve all our viewers. :)
We watched your video in hopes it would help us understand framing a basement better. One suggestion, which after reading the comments it seems like what everyone was hoping for is, could you slow down just a bit and have clearer shots and explanations of what you are doing. We had to rewind SO many times to read what your wrote. We like a little more fast paced videos, but you went a little too fast. Some guys go painfully slow. Most of the instructional videos that seem to work best are ones that the host explains what they are doing with minimal text as backup information. Example... you tell us and show us what you are doing and the product you are using... and the screen text might pop up what product(s) you feel are important for us to remember. Like the type of insulation. If you do have to have a longer sentence, make sure we have enough time to read it. Trying to watch you and read a few long sentences one right after the other is difficult. We are both fast readers but again because we are trying to absorb what you are doing, saying and typing is not easy to do at a really fast pace.
Hope this helps. Not trying to be sarcastic as many other comments seem to be. Just suggestions. One example of really good "how to" instructional videos is "I Like to Make Stuff" on TH-cam. Bob is fast paced but super informative.
Hi Shae - Thank you. You are very kind and generous with your time. I've tried to adopt the slower, more detailed mojo in more recent videos like this one on bunk beds - myfixituplife.com/DIY/diy-woodworking-project-video-kids-room-bunk-beds/#sthash.KAKdDtTs.dpbs -- And this one on deck building. I'd love to know what you think - myfixituplife.com/DIY/video-building-a-deck-top-down-framing-part-1/
How much did the tool in the blue v-neck cost?
I'm not the cheapest game in town. That's for sure.
what size bolts are using on the bottom? I got all of the tool that you use on the video but I dont know about the size on bolts and drill bite and I am about to start doing the job.
Hey Sean - I'm using a #10 x 3 Spax HCRX screw. Best screws ever. 5/32 bit I think.
Thanks you for this video. Everything was to the point and explained. I will use this advice on my next project 👍
George! You made my day. Thank you.
Lacked info.
Lacked questions.
Hi how much does it cost to finish 1000 sq basement? Bedroom,bath, living room and laundry. Thank you in advance
It's impossible to give accurate square foot pricing Debora. There are too many variables, everything from how the materials are loaded into the basement to what finishes you select. If you live in my area, I can give you a quote. A painted floor versus tile, for example, can swing a price thousands of dollars in either direction.
Can I place the 2x4 closer to the wall? I see that you have a big gap between them. Thank you.
My thoughts on how I did this…. He’s loosing about a good 3” of wall space everywhere, better idea is seal the walls with good basement paint, 2x4 up against the wall and use 2” thick sheets of styrofoam right in between the boards
Nice and snug. No loss of space sealed good from cold barrier.
I hold the studs 1-inch away from the wall to accommodate for lumps and bumps in the concrete. I also like the air gap between the studs and the vapor barrier. No need to cram the wall tight to the concrete.
This is rough carpentry. When you start cramming things too tightly together things go wrong. As for your wall section, I wouldn't use it and it's way expensive. If it work for you, go to town.
This is not a teaching video, but a video to revisit what has already been learned. An initial step-by-step teaching video(s) please!
Next basement I do, I'll take a deeper dive. I was trying to get as much into a short space as possible.
Hello did you seal the concrete wall this is a great video very helpful thank you
Thank you. The white product you see behind the studs is a vapor barrier. That stops moisture migration from conditioned to unconditioned spaces.
@@myfixituplife shouldnt the vapior barrier be on the others side (warm side)so the wall can breed?
@@janerikfjellvard9713 in this climate they want it between the backs of the studs and the concrete foundation wall to keep warm air from meeting cold and condensing. In colder climates, they want it on the warm side, but double check for your climate condition. This is about as deep as my building science goes.
@@janerikfjellvard9713 If you want to create a mold sandwich and get mold smell in your basement. Moisture can only come in frron underground concrete. I can not go out.
Why the vapor barrier in back of the wall?
The vapor barrier is intended to stop moisture from being created where warm air (anything that gets through the studs and insulation) meets cool temperatures (the foundation wall is always going to be cool, year round...about 54-degrees). And if it is created, it can't drive though the wall system. 6-mil plastic stapled to the joists above and draped like a curtain to the floor is sufficient where I live. Good question.
@@myfixituplife Basement walls with 95 degree temps in the summer I doubt are 56 degrees . If so why do I need a fan. Lol
@@peterbergeris6510 Solid observation. However, the earth below three feet (give or take, depends where you live) below grade is *always* about 56-degrees. That's why your basement feels cool in the summer. So, air temp and earth temp are two different things. And where warm meets cold: Moisture. Moisture=bad. Ergo, as they say, vapor barrier.
Hi MyFixitUpLife. My friends are telling me to use steel studs in the basement and pressure treated wood for the base. Do you agree?
Hey Neil - A steel stud and PT bottom plate doesn't make sense to me. Maybe I'm missing something. You'd have a connection that would require cutting a nailing flange on every single stud (top and bottom). I'm not sure how your friends do it, but it looks like that'd be about six cuts and two bends per stud. -- I prefer wood all the way through. It's faster to cut. Easier to fasten and quieter than metal studs. Personally, I'd rather user a circular saw than snips any day too. -- And you can make all the oddball window boxes and frame around bump outs faster in my opinion. From time to time you'll get a warped stud, but its easily replaced and re-used as blocking or other shorter pieces. -- I hope this helps. Let me know. I hope your project goes well.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My friends just heard it too. I was also confused when they told that to me. I'll use wood instead.
oh, I'm kinda confused on what to do with my joist/pipe situation. I see tons of conduit pipe, copper pipe and fire sprinkler pipe below the joist. I'm not sure how to put a drywall. Do I put a 2"x4"x6" so I can extend the joist, just a little below the fattest pipe? It's going to act like furring strips?
What you're talking about 'furring strips' is what some of us carps call 'packing out' or 'packing down'. I'm literally doing that on my current basement project. Technically there's surely a minimum ceiling height your inspector will want to see but usually there is plenty of room to pack down the entire ceiling. - Sorry it took me a while to respond. I'm sure you've figured it out by now. :) Also, I recommend this ceiling if you have the room. - th-cam.com/video/l9IwMyUQWgA/w-d-xo.html
What centers did you use 16 or 24 inch?
Hey Mike - 16-centers. One of the reasons (besides habit) is so that the studs line up with the existing floor framing above. There's no structural reason for it. If you switch over to 24 oc studs end up breaking in the middle of joist bays and that can cause headaches with wiring, ducting, venting and so on. Not always, but sometimes once is enough. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. If you're framing a basement, this is the ceiling I used on that same project. Might be worth thinking about. #NotAnAd :) - th-cam.com/video/l9IwMyUQWgA/w-d-xo.html
Wont the vapor barrier cause moisture/mold issues?
Hey OceanState - The vapor barrier will actually prevent moisture/mold issues by isolating areas of potential moisture creation, namely moisture in the foundation wall coming in and conditioned air going out. To get dweeby, where warm air meets cold air, condensation can occur. By adding the vapor barrier (and there is a little insulation behind this one in addition to the ROCKWOOL we used in the studs it minimizes this action. Plus, it's building code in our area so I really didn't have a choice. We also need to add vertical fireblocking every 10-feet so there is a good deal of insulation in this wall system.
@@myfixituplife So the mold you get behind that vapor barrier doesn't matter because you won't smell it for a while?
@@oldarkie3880 Well, it's been there for 5-years and its the approved detail for my building zone. So, not sure where this mold you've invented comes from.
a plate on top is ok?
Yessir. It's necessary along the walls that run parallel to the floor joist above, too.
@@myfixituplife thank you
One thing that is missing, i think is important factor is making sure adjacent walls are right angle. Simple vertical level and framing isn't going to make it right angle walls. I pretty sure you have done that but could be missing in this video.
Hi Ramesh - Yes, square corners are important when it comes to installing trim. Because a high level of precision is near impossible considering the many factors of basement remodeling, close is good. I do use a right angle laser to lay out the corners. To make up for the inevitable outness, I cope most of the moldings. No walls are truly square. Good call-out on this.
Yes, Pythagoras gets it done. :)
Where were the instructions?
Mick - I don't have written instructions. Is there a certain aspect I can help you with?
It's a hundred easy steps, or maybe two hundred and 10,000 dollars worth of tools. All you need is 50 dollars worth of materials and you can frame up 6000sq feet. Make sure you put the stuff where it goes and your all set!
Waste
Is it wrong to press your frame against the vapor barrier?
I prefer an air gap, yes. Trapping air is almost never a good idea.
Thanks! My dilemma is that the room isn't very big and by coming away from the 2-3", it will give me even less area space.
I deal with that all the time. Building right up to the wall will--almost with 100% certitude create another problem. Those few square feet aren't worth the headaches, IMO
Muy bueno amigo, linda explicación
!Muchas gracias!
Your video is not for a beginner. You got to show step by step, cut the music and give instructions on every steps.
Hey Jack - Yeah, these are some advanced tips. But they're just tips. My new videos, which will start posting soon, go waaaaay deeper on the detail. I'm a carpenter, not a TV producer. :)
@@myfixituplife that would be great. Please go step by step, dont miss anything. That is what gets you a lot of views. Once it becomes too long or confusing, people walk a way. Put your self in my shoe, keep less music and more talking and giving instructions.
I want to know how much gap of drywall i have to give for the bottom and top when doing side wall.
Same for roof, which one to start first and later one?
Hope that helps and clarify
@@jackryder6732 It does. But, I also kinda need to make a living while I produce these. You're asking for a master class. That said, I hear you and you'll see in forthcoming videos that the content map is different. I shoot as I go now - Here's an example - th-cam.com/video/xtuL_6-zzlc/w-d-xo.html
@@myfixituplife really appreciate. Just make very good video which covers everything. In that case you dont have to disturb your day to day work. Or make for different scenarios. Just being creative and easy to understand.
One guy on TH-cam who is big, but he missed few crucial info.
Thank you for your understanding. God bless
@@myfixituplife i have subscribed your channel
****** Try save some of you a costly mistake. Check your building code in your area, most areas don't allow the bottom to be fixed to the bottom with zero gap. If the basement floor heaves/shifts up or down from the ground below it, you have a serious problem and won't pass code during inspection. :)
News to me. Not required for this permit. Thank you, though. I'd guess you live where it's not just cold, but really cold.
Yeah, here in Colorado we have to float all our walls when framing out a basement on slab
Need to tell your viewers how to measure for your stud locations. Basement finishing man has a detailed video. He explains two ways of measuring.
That's a whole video in itself. I appreciate the input. You're totally right.
It would've been helpful if there were any measurements given, but this is just another "look at what I do" instead of a how to, like the tittle said.
Every basement is different. This isn't "look what I did"; it's guidelines.
I liked the way you (A) laid out the tools necessary . (B) Told us specifically what screws to use to fasten the bottom plates to the concrete . ( C) Used staging , which would make it easier than working off a ladder . (D) Showed us your little device for dealing with top plates . ( I do wish that you had spent a few more seconds dealing with the vapor barrier .)
Bill! Thank you. I really appreciate this. The vapor barrier--already installed on this house--is important. I like this one. It's plastic-wrapped fiberglass insulation which forms a complete barrier over the foundation wall. When such a product is no installed, I use 6-mil sheet plastic between the framing and the foundation. I get into vapor barrier and fireblocking in this video - th-cam.com/video/huetTo3VWz0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you . Bill Eddy
What make model is that laser level?
Ben - That is an ancient LeveLite laser. During the job I upgraded to DeWalt's new green-beam lasers. Can I say awesome!!! -- Here's a quick look at one from a video on our Facebook page. - facebook.com/MyFixitUpLife/videos/10154512444277160/
lmao wtf was he smiling at in the beginning?
Not sure really. Probably just trying to remember what to say. Thanks for watching.
Not going to lie thought I was going to learn just a bit more from video but it ended up kinda being a waste of time.. next video you make try explaining things and show how and what u are doing.
I do my best Theo. This may comes as a shock to you, but it's not exactly easy to write, shoot, produce, and present a video about a complicated topic while doing the complicated topic. That said, I have changed my style since I produced this some years ago and I tend to take deeper dives into the why and how and other details. Check out my deck-building series. It's over 30-minutes of detailed content. -- th-cam.com/video/G3QEyUBR4PM/w-d-xo.html
Putting up the studs one by one? Umm, how about framing on a flat surface then lifting the wall up instead...
Hey XL - Some guys do it that way. The problem with it in the basements I've framed has a few layers. First, lumpy floors--especially in old houses--can effect individual stud lengths by a lot. Second, there is invariably some obstruction which makes either spreading studs or tipping the wall an issue, for example a drain stack in the wall or HVAC duct on the ceiling. Or, which often happens: Both. Third, there's a gap between the top plate and the joists or blocking. Because a rectangle or square is longer across it's diagonal than its length, tipping the wall means there needs to be a gap so the plate can pass. Once the wall is standing up straight, there's a gap that needs to be shimmed or have something done to it. So, short story long, I find it easier and faster to get my plates locked in and laid out, then toe nail the studs in one-by-one. I hope this helps. Let me know.
I GOT WOOOD!!!
This is somehow a thing for you?
sounds like he could use some help with his wood.@@myfixituplife
Why wouldn't you build the wall and lift it into place?
Some carpenters do it that way but I find it ends up being more work--and more risk for wasted time the older the house is. First thing is that you have to frame the wall about an inch short so it'll tip. That then means you need to somehow shim or block or do something else to get proper fastening. The reason for this is the distance across a square from edge-to-edge is shorter than it is from corner-to-corner. So an 8-foot wall, for example, is 8-feet from edge-to-edge. But when you're rotating it into place, there's a point where the corners hit the floor and the ceiling and you're trapped. -- Add to that pipes, ducts, and lumpy concrete and I find it's just easier for me to whammer slammer studs in one-by-one. I hope that helps.
Mummer move?
We live near Philadelphia, but no Mummer moves intended here.
wow the first 10 seconds is creepy as hell
Imagine getting to know me in rea life!
Vapor barrier directly agains concrete is a no no. Plastic will not mold up but concrete will, and guess what, concrete is not water impervious.
Paul - The house is 10-years old and no mold in sight. And, I get what you're saying. Concrete is certainly not impervious to moisture penetration, however there is none here and the detail is required. What I typically do is drape a curtain of 6-mil sheet plastic between the foundation wall and the framing. Then I hold the framing off the wall an inch so there is a channel for air to move. Because, you're right. locking water--in all its forms--in is a potential mistake. -- I appreciate your expertise.
use all pressure treated wood spend a few extra bucks for a damp area .
Hey Billy - Bottom pl8 is PT.
When you said the Egyptians used the laser! Man that’s when I hit the stop button!!!!
Um, it's a joke. In other news, I'm fascinated by the ancient Egyptians layout precision. Brain-breaking stuff.
Great video. Would be even better without the loud music.
Great. Let's go back in time so you can be our audio engineer.
Kinda like this dude.
Well, holy hell. My day is made. Thank you.
Tom cruise wannabe and he doesnt explain anything for a first timer here.
I can't help the way I look and this isn't a first timer video.
You're in a basement and I noticed osb above you.. Which means you used osb for a subfloor? Do you Americans have any building codes or do you just slap shit together with the cheapest shit around?
Well, I didn't build the house, so I'm not sure what you're taking me to task for.
@@myfixituplife I didnt mean to. sorry. As a conractor do you find that odd though? Osb for a subfloor? Did they put some kind of 1/4 inch plywood over top of it?
@@tjl8884 You, sir, are a gentleman. And, if I misread it, I too apologize. -- This is what we call (maybe you do too; not mansplaining anything to you) a big builder house--massive subdivision, hundreds of houses, all speed-framed so they're not in the weather long. Kept dry, I'm not sure there's much to complain about re: OSB (I'm not really a framer by the way) other than it's awful to work with and hellaciously heavy. If it stays flat and doesn't get squishy, why not? It's 20% the cost of plywood, give or take. While higher end builders use a composite called Advantec--that crap can stay exposed for a year; it's amazing--all the pennies are pinched on these houses, by the builder. -- Again, thank you.
02:40 heard of a workbench / sawhorse?
Totally huge fan of a work table. I made this one for this job - th-cam.com/video/Qf8WoxoYdqY/w-d-xo.html - What do you like?
So, no vapour barrier under the bottom plate on a concrete floor.
Wouldn't pass any building inspection.
And plastic on the walls invites moisture condensation, use Tyvek. Lets vapour escape, but stops water.
Funny, it passed the inspection where it was inspected by the building inspector after the plan reviewer reviewed the plans, so not sure hat you mean there. As for plastic on the walls, the vapor barrier here is an insulative blanket applied by the home builder. It acts both as a thermal break and a vapor barrier between the conditioned air in the room and the colder air around the concrete walls.
Wow the guy was flying through the video 🤣🤣 all I got was showing off the tools and don't bang on it slow it down so we can learn something
There are these buttons on the screen where you can go back and re-watch stuff. :)
Egyptians used a laser level my ass!
😂😂😂
Ha! It's a joke of course. Nobody really knows what they used. Best guess is water.
1 or 200 easy steps? wtf?
Yup. :)
save some time and start at 2:00
No argument here. The intro was a bit long and hosty.
I thought he was having a stroke in the first few seconds there. Weird intro. Helpful though!
I might have been. I'm not a natural on camera. I get nervous every time. Glad it was helpful for you.
Lmao wtf.. no it didn't bruh.
I was hoping it would be as easy as "slapping sticks up". You ruined that fantasy in the first minute of your video. Now to get real....thanks for the video
Ha! Yes, there's a little more to it than "slapping sticks up" though I sometimes wish that weren't the case. Good luck. Go slow until you get the feel for it.
Damn I didn't know the Egyptians had lazer levels. I spent the 70s and 80s using water levels for nothing.
Facts is facts. What can I say? - :) - The Egyptians probably used water as their levels. At least that's one theory
@@myfixituplife Great video Mark, I love the Egyptian comment. I miss being on the tools and the banter with the lads. I had a good few decades shopfitting here in the England. Now I'm retired from joinery for a living, I'm a DIY guy. But I do miss the laughs we use to have. We never laughed at one another, we laughed with one another. It was hard work but satisfying.
@@d.beaumont9157 This is awesome. What a great story. I primarily work alone, but I've done some TV work with crews ranging in size from a few to a few hundred people and it was great. Keep hammerin'
@@d.beaumont9157 Thank you sir. By "on the tools" I'm guessing somewhere in England? And glad you got my Egypt joke. I think there are people who think I am serious. Stop by the channel any time. Always good to have a bloke about.
@@myfixituplife Hi Mark, yep I'm from Yorkshire in the North of England. Over here anyone who still working manually is classed as on the tools. I worked with Americans and Canadians for two years in Scotland. I got on great with them. I was always know as the bloke. It's good to be called a bloke again. In the early 80s we had two mc Donald's in the whole of the UK. We paid some friends who were going to London to bring several big mac's all the way up to Scotland. I think the lads were missing home. I've stacks of good memories working with those guys.
Plastic sheathing on the walls??? Come on we all know that method is old and not good practice...
What do you do instead Johnny?
You seem like a great guy lol
Well, hell. Thank you. There are some people who apparently don't hate me. I think.
Could you have possibly gone through this any faster?
Not sure what you mean? Are you impatient or looking for more detail? Let me know. Happy to help if I can.
Dude. I made it 60sec. Sorry.
Can't please all the people all the time. Thanks for taking a crack at it.
Let me show you how........ Oh wait butterflies.......... and we are done!
Wish I knew what you meant.
I think this should be titled "watch me frame a basement wall" since there is not a whole lot of detailed instruction happening.
We try to keep a balance of visuals and talking. I'm not magic. I don't know what the balance is, but feedback like this is helpful. More videos coming with a lot deeper dives. I'll be interested to hear what you think. Thanks - Mark
Like this one - th-cam.com/video/3uDPv7qsHts/w-d-xo.html
"How to frame a basement wall"
ME: OK? When do i learn how to frame it?
I get a lot of heat for this one. But I'm up for learning new tricks. How do you do it?
I think for myself and others we would like a tutorial on how to do this from the perspective that we have never done this before. I have looked at alot of videos and no one seems to break it down step by step.
@@dhibbard0824 I hear you. I'd love to do a whole video--or video series--that gets into all the nuances. However, I shoot these on real jobs with real timelines and customers, so squeezing in lots of media production just isn't in the cards all the time. I appreciate your message.
@@myfixituplife It would be great if you could do a small project in your own home so you could have a larger time line. I know it would help alot of people.
@@dhibbard0824 we have lots of different ones on the channel. Been doing a number of decks lately. More on social, though much less detail. More diary than anything - @myfixituplife IG/FB- Are you looking for anything in particular?
Teach step by step without music
Hey, we try. OK? It's not nothing to be a carpenter, business owner, and media producer.
why stick frame such an easy wall? build it on the ground lift it up. been way faster
Hey Zakary - I find tilting walls inside to be more trouble than its worth. Obviously, outdoors on a flat deck with nothing above me to mess with installation, tilt away. But there's just too much crap inside to deal with on my jobs. Lumpy floors, wires, pipes, vents...You know. And, when you tilt up a wall inside, you have to shim the crap out of it because it has to be framed short. -- If you can go fast tilting, more power to ya. I appreciate you checking in.
Just out of curiosity, why would you have to shim it? It's typically ideal to have a 1/4" gap or so at the top of these non-bearing basement walls to allow any future expansion of the concrete slab below the bottom plate.
This guy probably doesn't know about the Hilti gun to shot in concrete or at least Ramset, he knows a bit about framing (slow way and unnecessary time consuming) still green (rookie)
It's not really called a "Hilti gun". It's a "powder actuated tool", PAT, and Hilti makes one of the several brands out there. And I've had so many of those pins just shatter the concrete beneath the plate they're hardly worth the time. Plus, the .22 going off ever few seconds, constant reloads, an extra tool I need to buy crap for, carry onto and off the job and then store...forget it. Drilling and screwing also enables me to edit a mistake if I make one. -- As for green? I could argue but nah. I try to always be learning though.
You explain nothing.
What do you need help with?
Then first 4 seconds are creepy, thumbs down
Thanks Vince. I guess there's always room for improvement.
CHRIST I DIDN'T LEARN ANYTHING !!
Ok chuck
Chuck: "We're going to show a real framing video today Chris." Chris: "Sounds great, Chuck. Lets get started!"
Tsk tsk.
Who's Chris and Chuck?
No measurements. No protocal. Just random b.s. 10-4 buddy
I have no idea what you're talking about. Sounds keyboard warrior-y but it's hard to tell bro.
What’s your question? Just finished three new construction projects this week. And tought plenty of journeyman in this industry. I am simply letting you know that myself, and the majority..are completely missing And any valuable information in this video
Really can't follow what you're saying. Sounds like a criticism, but I can't tell. Glad you finished some jobs.
This is not a professional
Really?
didn't really show you anything
We try.
looks like a Dexter kill room.
Never seen an episode. But, we try to be versatile.
That was probably the least efficient way to put a wall up I’ve ever seen
It may well be--for you. For me, and I work alone, it's pure speed on the track.
@@myfixituplife No. Much faster to cut all the studs at once, build the wall on the ground, and stand it up. Like 100x faster.
@@ShopTherapy623 Yeah, I've tried this. Between blocking around the approximately 1-million obstructions in the ceiling, lumpy floors, shims and blocking needed for fastening in the ceiling because you have to frame the wall an inch or so short to tip it up (I bet you thought I didn't know that), lumps in the floor...I'd rather just plod along. It may seem slow, but it works for me. I also don't need to move material to clear out floor space to flake out my studs.
@@myfixituplife you do not need to frame the wall an inch short, unless you have tile upstairs. You do you man.
@@ShopTherapy623 If you've got a n 8-foot opening (and you don't, concrete is fluid after all...it's several different size openings) and frame an 8-foot tall wall geometry says it can't be tipped into place. Also my real life experience matches the math. It's a 1,000% certainty the wall needs to be framed short to tip it up.