A list of a number of different rappel extensions that you can use for rappelling off of technical climbing routes. Also with my preferences for when and how to use them.
On the PAS you could still clip the first link in the chain with your preferred attachment point to make it redundant..... but in reality, it's just rappelling lol
Awesome video, I might drop the petzl connect for the link system you have. Much lighter. But I would like to see you do a vid in the petzl connect /duo
Hey Ryan - dope channel bud you’re the best on TH-cam!. I have a question : for a rappel extension/personal tether, is it okay to use dynamic climbing rope with two figure 8s on a bite and a butterfly knot in the middle?
Hey man, ya you could use that as a rappel extension. I would maybe use an overhand knot instead of the butterfly only because when you weight the butterfly with the device it will only be loaded on one side. The butterfly is still plenty strong though so you can use it if you want.
out of curiosity, if you're rapping down pretty fast, heating up your atc and biner, on a dyneema sling, do you have to worry about melting through the dyneema?
I'm thinking of using the 2nd technique you showed with the Overhand as it allows the sling to be longer but I'm worried about how much the sling is weakened due to the carabiner jamming into the Overhand knot. What are your thoughts and experiences with it?
Thanks for the question, I’ve used that particular extension tons of times and a lot of my friends use it as their “go- to” extension. You’re right that a knot in the sling does weaken it a little bit, but the sling is still more than strong enough to be used as a rappel tether. Most slings are around 24kN, so you have a huge margin of safety.
@@ryantilley9063 good to hear, I've seen other guides on TH-cam also use this technique. I'm not really concerned about the Overhand itself but more so that the carabiner would jam directly into the knot which may cause further strength losses. Would it be ok if I use this on a sling made of 8mm cord with ends joined using double fisherman?
It would probably be fine, since you just need the cord to support your weight, but if you are worried about how the material is weekend by knots then you should know that usually the tensile strength of slings are higher than cord (it does depend on the material and brand though) 8mm cord is somewhere around the 15kN range, while a sling is usually in the 24kN range. They would both work for your rappel tether but most people go to slings for this reason. Sorry for the late reply!
Where do you live in Washington ? I want a climbing rappel partner as I’m without anyone that I know who wants to do it . I’m at a loss as I’m very much not liking the idea of being alone . Do you have any ideas to find people who are interested in doing it.
Marco Silva the idea is your using another sling set up in any sort of two bolt anchor configuration (like a quad sling or a classic pre equalized) and you clip that into both bolts then you clip yourself into that with your rappel tether. So you have the redundancy with your anchor and the point of the tether is just to attach yourself to the anchor.
Ya for sure, it is possible for the knot to roll and undo itself, but as long as you keep a carabiner on the loop it'll stop from coming completely undone. If it actually manages to come undone fully you'll still be clipped in to the anchor it'll just really scare you is all. I've used this extension a lot and know plenty of people that use it and I've never heard of anyone having the knot come undone on them.
Ya I use that one all the time, usually it’s when I have one with me which is kind of off and on. I tend to always have a locker draw when I’m ice climbing so I’ll definitely go to that extension then!
just rap on an assisted braking device and ditch the third hand, keep it simple and less steps to manage and there are less things to potentially fail. far too many antiquated methods still in use when more practical and safer systems exist
You really deserve more subscribers homie.
I really like the clove hitch method of this. 👍
The best explanation on the youtube. Thank you!
I like the clove hitch extension. I'll definitely try it out.
8:30 time stamp is how I set up my set up. I like how the Knott keeps everything in line nice and neat.
Thanks Ryan
I really like the chain linked PAS since you can easily fifi into any of the loops to bounce test a piece if your doing some makeshift aid.
Waited for a video on exactly this topic!
nice video. very clear information. thanks
On the PAS you could still clip the first link in the chain with your preferred attachment point to make it redundant..... but in reality, it's just rappelling lol
Awesome video, I might drop the petzl connect for the link system you have. Much lighter. But I would like to see you do a vid in the petzl connect /duo
Can you do a video on correct way to repel with a petzl connect? Love your content.
Hey Ryan - dope channel bud you’re the best on TH-cam!. I have a question : for a rappel extension/personal tether, is it okay to use dynamic climbing rope with two figure 8s on a bite and a butterfly knot in the middle?
Hey man, ya you could use that as a rappel extension. I would maybe use an overhand knot instead of the butterfly only because when you weight the butterfly with the device it will only be loaded on one side. The butterfly is still plenty strong though so you can use it if you want.
out of curiosity, if you're rapping down pretty fast, heating up your atc and biner, on a dyneema sling, do you have to worry about melting through the dyneema?
I'm thinking of using the 2nd technique you showed with the Overhand as it allows the sling to be longer but I'm worried about how much the sling is weakened due to the carabiner jamming into the Overhand knot. What are your thoughts and experiences with it?
Thanks for the question, I’ve used that particular extension tons of times and a lot of my friends use it as their “go- to” extension. You’re right that a knot in the sling does weaken it a little bit, but the sling is still more than strong enough to be used as a rappel tether. Most slings are around 24kN, so you have a huge margin of safety.
@@ryantilley9063 good to hear, I've seen other guides on TH-cam also use this technique. I'm not really concerned about the Overhand itself but more so that the carabiner would jam directly into the knot which may cause further strength losses. Would it be ok if I use this on a sling made of 8mm cord with ends joined using double fisherman?
It would probably be fine, since you just need the cord to support your weight, but if you are worried about how the material is weekend by knots then you should know that usually the tensile strength of slings are higher than cord (it does depend on the material and brand though) 8mm cord is somewhere around the 15kN range, while a sling is usually in the 24kN range. They would both work for your rappel tether but most people go to slings for this reason.
Sorry for the late reply!
Where do you live in Washington ? I want a climbing rappel partner as I’m without anyone that I know who wants to do it . I’m at a loss as I’m very much not liking the idea of being alone . Do you have any ideas to find people who are interested in doing it.
what is the redundancy with the runner method if you only have one loop, so you can only attach to one bolt of the anchor?
Marco Silva the idea is your using another sling set up in any sort of two bolt anchor configuration (like a quad sling or a classic pre equalized) and you clip that into both bolts then you clip yourself into that with your rappel tether. So you have the redundancy with your anchor and the point of the tether is just to attach yourself to the anchor.
@@ryantilley9063 can you attach the sling directly in to both carabiners of the anchor? or should I attach directly to the quad?
Marco Silva you would clip directly to the master point of the quad
6:13 Is it ok for the overhand to be loaded like that
Ya for sure, it is possible for the knot to roll and undo itself, but as long as you keep a carabiner on the loop it'll stop from coming completely undone. If it actually manages to come undone fully you'll still be clipped in to the anchor it'll just really scare you is all. I've used this extension a lot and know plenty of people that use it and I've never heard of anyone having the knot come undone on them.
@@ryantilley9063 thanks man!
What part of Washington do you live in? East, Central or Western?
I’m from the Seattle area, I still live and work here throughout the summer
Thoughts on a locking quickdraw extension?
Ya I use that one all the time, usually it’s when I have one with me which is kind of off and on. I tend to always have a locker draw when I’m ice climbing so I’ll definitely go to that extension then!
just rap on an assisted braking device and ditch the third hand, keep it simple and less steps to manage and there are less things to potentially fail. far too many antiquated methods still in use when more practical and safer systems exist