FREE Filament for 3D Printers made from Recycled PET Plastic Bottles!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ส.ค. 2023
- Let's talk about recycling plastic bottles into usable filament for 3D printers. This process is called 'pultruding' or 'pultrusion' and involves cutting empty bottles into long narrow strips, and then 'pulling' them through a specially designed hot-end and nozzle (like from a 3D printer).
This process will NOT work for recycling filament scraps and failed 3D prints. That is an entirely different process called 'extrusion'.
Pultrusion is about recycling, and taking something that would likely end up in a landfill (or worse yet the ocean), and instead, turning it into something wonderful with our 3D printers! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Sounds cool! I look forward to seeing what you have come up with. Who knows, maybe one of us will see what you've done and then figure out a way to speed it up. You never can tell.
I’m not going to be covering how to build a Pultruder. There’s just so many options and different pre designed systems out there. But as far as speeding up the printing, I will cover that to some degree. In order to print faster, the hot-end needs to be hotter. But most printers have a limit of 250c or 260c, which is not quite enough to print PET other than doing it very, very slowly. There’s also the design of the hot-end. Really need to have an all metal heat break so you can keep the Bowden tube well away from the nozzle. PTFE begins breaking down at those temps. Direct Drive is a good option too, so long as there is no PTFE in contact with the nozzle and the heat sink fan is capable of keeping the upper portion of the hot-end cool. Know what I mean? 😂
@@KevinGroninga3D oh yeah I 100% understand what you're saying. You're preaching to the choir, bro, preaching to the choir. 😉 But I really wanted to see how the pultruder was made (if that's even a real word)
@@micahisyourfriend I will probably show how I made mine, but wouldn’t recommend this approach for building a new one. And I’ll cover basic stuff like knowing exactly how wide the ribbons should be based on the average thickness of the plastic in the bottle. That’s real important when it comes to making filament that’s consistent and as solid as possible. There are just so many factors involved when it comes to making and printing with this stuff. Which is why we just generally buy commercially made filament! 😂
@@KevinGroninga3D I get that. But doing things the hard way is sometimes so valuable. The process of making a solution (even an inefficient one) for a problem can be super inspiring. Maybe your journey is what it's about, rather than the solution.
This is a pep talk that's probably more for me my own project I'm working on. How's it working for you? Feeling inspired?
@@micahisyourfriend Whoo hoo! Oh yeah! I’m always inspired! Maybe because I’m retired. And being retired is like a second childhood without adult supervision!
I really like your videos, what temperature do you use on your printer?
Edit: I see that you said 258-260c but I would still like to hear more about your printer settings, I tried with my ender 3 s1, and it didn't reach those temperature
I’ll be doing later videos talking about the mods I’ve made to my printers, all of the various setting for speed, flow rate, fan speeds and more importantly the bed and nozzle temps. There’s a lot to cover..
At 260° you're only going to be printing this really slow. It's barely melted, which you can feel by how hard it is to push by hand thru the hotend, and you're going to have a really bad day if it crystallizes from heat creep. 280 is about the lowest I'd recommend trying, and 325-350 is my usual high speed temperature for PET.
@@daliasprints9798 that’s true. But many machines max out at 260C with the limits set in the firmware. If those limits are raised, then yeah, printing hotter can print faster.
But I’m not going down a rabbit hole here and telling people how to update their firmware. I’m also not against printing slower if it means that my final result is super clean.
@@KevinGroninga3D I think you have to go all metal for PET printing to be safe at all. Despite some ppl doing it, 260 will deteriorate PTFE quickly, and will offgas and kill animals sensitive to it (like pet birds).
Once you're all-metal, you're good to go up to 300, which is a very comfortable temp for normal speeds and strong layer bonding.
@@daliasprints9798 I’m well aware of that and have upgraded my PET machines with all metal heat breaks to keep the nozzle well away from any PTFE tubing.