Well Brian, this was a very quite a job. You really took some time to give very good detailed information. I appreciate that you showed the parts on and off the vehicle. Very helpful. Thank you, very much appreciated!👍👍👍
Thank you for the video, the return cooling line sprung a leak on our 2008 Volvo XC90-v8 model. the hardlines section that sit's on the sub-frame started seeping where the line is clipped into a plastic line bracket, the plastic bracket actually wore hole through the aluminum line.
rhd over here so would try to pull it out from right, but awkward metal lines pipes in the way, may be easier to lower the front subframe and support the engine
@@InvictaHorizonJFM83 sort of. It should pull straight out, but a well machined fit and the possibility of corrosion may keep it bound until leverage is applied. Lube it up real good and keep an eye on it as you work to separate it
How to re-connect the Rack pinion connector to have a communication with the steering angle sensor, My 2008 xc90 rack pinion, was replaced but the mechanic, doesn't connect the cable back..now i have the signal all the timeon.?
Thanks for watching! I don't recall a wire transmitting signal from the rack itself to the steering angle sensor. I think the sensor is measuring where the steering wheel is, understanding that the rack and column are in a fixed relationship (unlike splined steering shafts). So you may actually have a problem with the steering angle sensor (gotta take apart the steering wheel/airbag to replace it... sounds awful but it's not a bad job). Sometimes an alignment cures it. Is your wheel at 12 o'clock when going straight down the highway?
Right, that front clip cradles the engine. If you pulled those four 18mm bolts out completely, you could (after disconnecting a few more things) remove the engine from below. As the engine comes down with the front clip, the exhaust comes with it (if you disconnect the mid pipe, then just the manifold comes down with the engine and the rest of the exhaust could stay in the car)
Oooh i get what you're saying. Thanks. How low did you need to go. its fairly tight. I am doing this exact job but on the ground. I wish i had a lift like yours!
@@pleb2dev605 you only need to drop the clip 1-2 inches. That will earn you enough clearance to get tools in and twist the rack out. If you pull the bolts all the way out, I'd suggest threading it back in a couple turns to keep the front clip/subframe suspended and lined up. Might be a trick to line up the bolt holes if you remove the bolts and support the clip on stands (though that could get you a lot more wiggle room). It'll take some time and patience, but it'll come out. Be careful under the car!
@@RosyWrench I finally got the rack on. The way i gained a ton of space that made things really easy what to remove the 2 18mm bolts on the back near the exhaust manifold. and let the bracket hang and jack up the engine. That gave me so much space it was like butter removing the rack and reinstalling everything. Not fully complete but i really appreciate your video and your support. as an electrician i tend to get myself into sticky situations. This video was great to act as a guide. Thanks!
Well Brian, this was a very quite a job. You really took some time to give very good detailed information. I appreciate that you showed the parts on and off the vehicle. Very helpful. Thank you, very much appreciated!👍👍👍
Thank you for the video, the return cooling line sprung a leak on our 2008 Volvo XC90-v8 model. the hardlines section that sit's on the sub-frame started seeping where the line is clipped into a plastic line bracket, the plastic bracket actually wore hole through the aluminum line.
Thank you for this video! You helped me save my car! and a ton of $$!
Finally, a realistic video. Have clunking noise on my xc70 D5 P3. Have to mentally prepare foe this job
rhd over here so would try to pull it out from right, but awkward metal lines pipes in the way, may be easier to lower the front subframe and support the engine
@@InvictaHorizonJFM83 I forgot to follow up with you, how did it go?
Thanks for the description of how to remove this rack. Looks very daunting until I saw your video.
Even with this video "Which is great"! - This looks daunting
nearly there , just took the lower yoke bolt out, only the top one to do, will the yoke then come out with the rack?
If you get a long bar you can tap the steering yoke back on from the top a lot easier 👍
Great work 👍🏼
bolts out of yoke , so it should just disengage when rack pulled away?
@@InvictaHorizonJFM83 sort of. It should pull straight out, but a well machined fit and the possibility of corrosion may keep it bound until leverage is applied. Lube it up real good and keep an eye on it as you work to separate it
hi did you just loosen up the sway bar bolts or remove them?
@@InvictaHorizonJFM83 I removed the bolts so the bar could float around
How to re-connect the Rack pinion connector to have a communication with the steering angle sensor, My 2008 xc90 rack pinion, was replaced but the mechanic, doesn't connect the cable back..now i have the signal all the timeon.?
Thanks for watching! I don't recall a wire transmitting signal from the rack itself to the steering angle sensor. I think the sensor is measuring where the steering wheel is, understanding that the rack and column are in a fixed relationship (unlike splined steering shafts). So you may actually have a problem with the steering angle sensor (gotta take apart the steering wheel/airbag to replace it... sounds awful but it's not a bad job). Sometimes an alignment cures it. Is your wheel at 12 o'clock when going straight down the highway?
Why does he keep saying the exhaust will come down with the engine? Dropping the bracket alittle bit lowers the engine?
Right, that front clip cradles the engine. If you pulled those four 18mm bolts out completely, you could (after disconnecting a few more things) remove the engine from below. As the engine comes down with the front clip, the exhaust comes with it (if you disconnect the mid pipe, then just the manifold comes down with the engine and the rest of the exhaust could stay in the car)
Oooh i get what you're saying. Thanks. How low did you need to go. its fairly tight. I am doing this exact job but on the ground. I wish i had a lift like yours!
@@pleb2dev605 you only need to drop the clip 1-2 inches. That will earn you enough clearance to get tools in and twist the rack out. If you pull the bolts all the way out, I'd suggest threading it back in a couple turns to keep the front clip/subframe suspended and lined up. Might be a trick to line up the bolt holes if you remove the bolts and support the clip on stands (though that could get you a lot more wiggle room).
It'll take some time and patience, but it'll come out. Be careful under the car!
@@RosyWrench I finally got the rack on. The way i gained a ton of space that made things really easy what to remove the 2 18mm bolts on the back near the exhaust manifold. and let the bracket hang and jack up the engine. That gave me so much space it was like butter removing the rack and reinstalling everything. Not fully complete but i really appreciate your video and your support. as an electrician i tend to get myself into sticky situations. This video was great to act as a guide.
Thanks!
@@pleb2dev605 thanks for commenting! Your tips will undoubtedly help others. Cheers