Another good thing about the rustoleum is that its available in quart and gallon cans so you can spray it with a spray gun. You can add acrylic enamel hardener to give it some more durability, thin it with acetone and mix together the flat and gloss black to get whatever sheen you want.
From Australia and have a 70 Grabber Blue Mach 1. We painted the engine bay, black inserts on the Magnum 500s, grille, horns, suspension components and radiator with VHT Roll Bar Chassis satin black 13 years ago. Looks as good as the day we did it. I believe it’s a Ceramic paint and it is as tough as nails. Awesome paint for any touch ups, blends in well. Had many a car painter come and say can’t believe the finish out of a can!
I paid a bunch of money for Eastwood's ceramic satin black paint. After shooting the engine bay, it ended up looking way too gray. I scuffed it up and shot over it with the VHT Satin roll bar paint, it looks about perfect now. Love the VHT.
I’ve used them all and they all have a place in an automotive project. Ball joints drag links control arms all gets painted. Some parts you’ll never see all needs a little love.
Two people, makes a conspiracy, 4 people makes a gaggle!!! They all look good. I too, like the Krilon finish as well. My favorite, is Krylon rust tough, semi-flat, RTA9203. It's the regular semi flat equivalent, that used to be widely available, everywhere... Unfortunately, Rust-Oleum, has a stranglehold on just about every retailer. I have my local Napa store bring it in for me. Like 16 bucks a can!! But I love the sheen.. Just did my 65 FB engine compartment and outer aprons and shock towers.. Love the content, keep it coming!!!
Man couldn't have come at a better time. Repainting my 67 fastback engine compartment. That VHT looks good. Nice a flat. Thank you for that interior breakdown on the fastback. It makes my life do much easier trying to get everything back together. 👍
I have restored several Mustangs and have used all of the paint cans used on this video. Honestly, they are all very good, but my preferred Satin finish and paint can is the Rustoleum. Here, a month back, I went to Home Depot, and they were out of Rustoleum satin, so I bit the bullett and tried the Behr spray can, and It was very nice with a clean finish.
Hello Jeff. I still like the way Rustoleum Canyon Black looks and it's durability. I've used it for engine parts like pulleys, etc. , and find it looks great. George B
I used the Duplicolor Engine Enamel - Low Gloss and it's a near perfect match on the engine bay! Highly recommend checking that one out. It's super durable too, more so than the Krylon which I've also used a bunch but it scrapes off so easily.
I like the convenience of rattle cans but the quality is lacking over genuine automotive spray paints from a body shop supply retailer. About all i use are the trim paints anymore
hey Jeff! I now personally perfer the Satin finish myself. Used to always get the gloss but really like the satin finish look. The Ace Hardware satin is comparable to the Rustoleum. VHT I get the ceramic for Intakes etc.
You made a big thing. lol I have a Pontiac and the book I had bought that went into restoration for it, mentioned how GM had different percentages of gloss (30% semi gloss, 60% gloss, etc.) in their various engine bay blacks. The heater core cover was actually painted in a different level of gloss in comparison to the firewall. Is the same encountered in the Ford realm? I kind of eye balled it based on what I thought looked good, but in a concours resto might not be exact.
As far as Satin goes, I agree with you. I do some powder coating and have used some powders with the same issue, semi-gloss instead of the satin look used by car manufacturers. I think that the VHT is the better choice for durability although I have no proof by testing those 2 brands. Krylon used to have the best engine paints and trunk spatter paint and the colors were always spot on. VHT is known for header paint and I have a set of headers that were painted in late 1968 or early 1969 with orange VHT and they still have a lot of it on them. The engine was painted with krylon and it is still holding up. I would say if economics is the deciding factor, go for the Krylon. I an not pleased with Rustoleum due to dry times and I have had failures. If I had a large enough oven, everything would not be powder coated. I can prep, paint and cure faster than using paint and the part is much more durable. Using a good see through clear that doesn't yellow will add to that protection and UV protection. Thanks for posting this.
There are TH-camrs like ViceGrip and DD that people covet and because both those channels make mention of their favorite Black finishes, their followers adopt their opinions even when they don't have any experience with them. This isn't the first time I've noticed these preference trends that lead to response videos. It's kind of hilarious. I like to use SEM trim black 39143 when it's in the budget. A good factory appearance. It's a more modern color choice but it works for me.
Thanks for the video. We are about to paint (rattle can) our 1968 Cougar XR7 engine bay. It’s a daily driver. I think we will go with the most cost effective. 💥
that krylon looks way better and glossier if you spray it on a little closer and heavier, it's a very forgiving paint and is hard to make mistakes with, that "no runs, no drips, no errors" is no joke
@AutoRestoMod I didn't say it was better than rustoleum I'm just saying if you follow the can directions it looks alright, but if you experiment it'll look like a piano black paint job and look super glossy black, if you send me an email address I can send you some photos of what the krylon looks like when sprayed wetter and closer
At the risk of starting a firestorm - If you can't afford the extra 8-10 dollars for the two cans of paint needed to do an engine compartment (an example just because Jeff mentioned the Ranchero) you really shouldn't be messing with cars. If, in your experience, one brand holds up better than the others buy it.
You forgot one that the pro's use: SEMS. It gives a near perfect factory sheen for black interior panels and engine bays but in my initial testing, does not dry hard enough and scratches and nicks too easily. I'm also not impressed with the spray tip/nozzle. It's at your body shop paint supply stores and runs $13-$14/can.
I love SEM. And I use them a lot. These are the "usual suspects" paints that you can find at the box stores and the auto parts stores. SEM is a little harder to get. You have to go to an actual auto paint store to get it.
Yes just realized that rattle campaign is not going to hold up as well as a spray gun paint because of how they have to set it up for atomization. I also don't think that a lot of the battle campaigns have quite the UV inhibitors that you get from high quality enamel paints from the paint store.
Eastwood is not part of my "usual suspects". Though that is a really great paint . You have to order the paint from Eastwood. Every one of the blacks that I chose was one that you can get locally at the auto parts store or at a box store like Lowe's or Home Depot
It is what it is, and it's gone be what it's gone be!😂. I think the bottom line on this personal preference. No right or wrong. Just whatever and whichever a person likes. Durability and how the finish holds up over time? That would be the only real difference. This is IMHO anyways, from one broken down old fat man.
Rattle can paint is good for a car or truck your gonna flip.....if your painting your baby spend a lil money and buy some ppg or dupont. Your paint store can add some flattener if you want a matte or flat color.
I agree to a point. However a lot of us out here in the hobby don't have access to good quality pain equipment to do what you're talking about. Good quality rattle cans will hold up pretty well too A lot of that falls into prep.
Krylon is good, duplicolor is garbage, VHT i wasnt impressed with, rustoleum always impresses... covers well, sticks to anything and is cheap. Not speaking to black per sey, just the brands in general and how they perform, thats just my experience. Duplicolor nozzle is worse than the paint, rustoleum has a nice nozzle.
Worrying about a couple bucks different per can? Detail a Mopar engine bay. Factory color single stage at $25-30 a can. 😂 Then a can of one of these cheapie to overspray the front behind the grille - over the $$ stuff you just put on.
Another good thing about the rustoleum is that its available in quart and gallon cans so you can spray it with a spray gun. You can add acrylic enamel hardener to give it some more durability, thin it with acetone and mix together the flat and gloss black to get whatever sheen you want.
From Australia and have a 70 Grabber Blue Mach 1. We painted the engine bay, black inserts on the Magnum 500s, grille, horns, suspension components and radiator with VHT Roll Bar Chassis satin black 13 years ago. Looks as good as the day we did it. I believe it’s a Ceramic paint and it is as tough as nails. Awesome paint for any touch ups, blends in well. Had many a car painter come and say can’t believe the finish out of a can!
That is a really good vht paint to use and it is pretty hard after it dries. It's just expensive LOL
You should live here ,hell expensive but you pay for what you get. Love your videos!
My go-to has always been Ace Hardware Black Satin. Great match, and it comes in a larger container than your examples.
Jeff, put some gas on them and see how well they hold up. If your brave try some carb clean. Them are good selections of paint to test.
I paid a bunch of money for Eastwood's ceramic satin black paint. After shooting the engine bay, it ended up looking way too gray. I scuffed it up and shot over it with the VHT Satin roll bar paint, it looks about perfect now. Love the VHT.
Crazy expensive retailer ...I don't buy anything from them anymore it's ridiculous
I’ve used them all and they all have a place in an automotive project. Ball joints drag links control arms all gets painted. Some parts you’ll never see all needs a little love.
Two people, makes a conspiracy, 4 people makes a gaggle!!! They all look good. I too, like the Krilon finish as well. My favorite, is Krylon rust tough, semi-flat, RTA9203. It's the regular semi flat equivalent, that used to be widely available, everywhere... Unfortunately, Rust-Oleum, has a stranglehold on just about every retailer. I have my local Napa store bring it in for me. Like 16 bucks a can!! But I love the sheen.. Just did my 65 FB engine compartment and outer aprons and shock towers.. Love the content, keep it coming!!!
great review Jeff!
VHT is my go to paint.
I sprayed a roll cage continuous with six cans and not a single run.
Love this stuff.
Good to know. Thanks
Man couldn't have come at a better time. Repainting my 67 fastback engine compartment.
That VHT looks good. Nice a flat.
Thank you for that interior breakdown on the fastback. It makes my life do much easier trying to get everything back together. 👍
I used that on the sub-frame of my '65 Galaxie recently when I did a 390 swap. Really lays down nice!
Duplicolor and VHT. I especially like the VHT High Temperature Chassis Roll Bar paint in satin and gloss black.
I have restored several Mustangs and have used all of the paint cans used on this video. Honestly, they are all very good, but my preferred Satin finish and paint can is the Rustoleum. Here, a month back, I went to Home Depot, and they were out of Rustoleum satin, so I bit the bullett and tried the Behr spray can, and It was very nice with a clean finish.
I didn't even know Behr had a spray can that's interesting.
Yes, Sir, I bought my Behr spray can at Home Depot. Very nice satin finish.
Hello Jeff. I still like the way Rustoleum Canyon Black looks and it's durability. I've used it for engine parts like pulleys, etc. , and find it looks great.
George B
Krylon makes a semi flat enamel that I think matches factory chassis paint the best. It's hard to find, Summit sells it and a few other places.
I used the Duplicolor Engine Enamel - Low Gloss and it's a near perfect match on the engine bay! Highly recommend checking that one out. It's super durable too, more so than the Krylon which I've also used a bunch but it scrapes off so easily.
Great review. Working on a refurbish of an 06 HD and the owner wanted satin black on certain parts. Had no idea where to begin until this. Thnk u
You are welcome!
I like the convenience of rattle cans but the quality is lacking over genuine automotive spray paints from a body shop supply retailer. About all i use are the trim paints anymore
hey Jeff! I now personally perfer the Satin finish myself. Used to always get the gloss but really like the satin finish look. The Ace Hardware satin is comparable to the Rustoleum. VHT I get the ceramic for Intakes etc.
amazing video //side note : for production a cooler bulb in that shop video over is very warm/yellow in Temp
You made a big thing. lol I have a Pontiac and the book I had bought that went into restoration for it, mentioned how GM had different percentages of gloss (30% semi gloss, 60% gloss, etc.) in their various engine bay blacks. The heater core cover was actually painted in a different level of gloss in comparison to the firewall. Is the same encountered in the Ford realm? I kind of eye balled it based on what I thought looked good, but in a concours resto might not be exact.
As far as Satin goes, I agree with you. I do some powder coating and have used some powders with the same issue, semi-gloss instead of the satin look used by car manufacturers. I think that the VHT is the better choice for durability although I have no proof by testing those 2 brands. Krylon used to have the best engine paints and trunk spatter paint and the colors were always spot on. VHT is known for header paint and I have a set of headers that were painted in late 1968 or early 1969 with orange VHT and they still have a lot of it on them. The engine was painted with krylon and it is still holding up. I would say if economics is the deciding factor, go for the Krylon. I an not pleased with Rustoleum due to dry times and I have had failures. If I had a large enough oven, everything would not be powder coated. I can prep, paint and cure faster than using paint and the part is much more durable. Using a good see through clear that doesn't yellow will add to that protection and UV protection. Thanks for posting this.
You're welcome great tips there
There are TH-camrs like ViceGrip and DD that people covet and because both those channels make mention of their favorite Black finishes, their followers adopt their opinions even when they don't have any experience with them. This isn't the first time I've noticed these preference trends that lead to response videos. It's kind of hilarious. I like to use SEM trim black 39143 when it's in the budget. A good factory appearance. It's a more modern color choice but it works for me.
Thanks for the video. We are about to paint (rattle can) our 1968 Cougar XR7 engine bay. It’s a daily driver. I think we will go with the most cost effective. 💥
Right on!
Paint prices are crazy now 😮
Big rustoleum fan, but I use a no sand primer first. My jobs are usually farm equipment.
I always check Walmart too... typically save a few $ over Home Depot
Fantastic comparison video. Are any of the four products available for use in a lvp paint gun?
Great info Jeff 👍
They all look great to me, I’d probably go with the rust oleum, it’ll dull down after a while
Awesome video 👍
Duplicolor also makes a low gloss black, that is lower sheen than the semi-gloss but more than the flat black. Still, the duplicolor is a bit pricey.
You get what you pay for.
that krylon looks way better and glossier if you spray it on a little closer and heavier, it's a very forgiving paint and is hard to make mistakes with, that "no runs, no drips, no errors" is no joke
How do you know that the Krylon seemed to spray out better than the Rust-Oleum
@AutoRestoMod I didn't say it was better than rustoleum I'm just saying if you follow the can directions it looks alright, but if you experiment it'll look like a piano black paint job and look super glossy black, if you send me an email address I can send you some photos of what the krylon looks like when sprayed wetter and closer
At the risk of starting a firestorm - If you can't afford the extra 8-10 dollars for the two cans of paint needed to do an engine compartment (an example just because Jeff mentioned the Ranchero) you really shouldn't be messing with cars. If, in your experience, one brand holds up better than the others buy it.
You forgot one that the pro's use: SEMS. It gives a near perfect factory sheen for black interior panels and engine bays but in my initial testing, does not dry hard enough and scratches and nicks too easily. I'm also not impressed with the spray tip/nozzle. It's at your body shop paint supply stores and runs $13-$14/can.
I love SEM. And I use them a lot. These are the "usual suspects" paints that you can find at the box stores and the auto parts stores. SEM is a little harder to get. You have to go to an actual auto paint store to get it.
The next test is to see what holds up to brakeclean. I have had it wash off all the piant near the master cylinder.
That does sound like fun. I might do brake clean and brake fluid.
I'm a Krylon guy when it comes to general purpose black
Sem trim black
Can i use this for my car wheels? They're like glossy black, I mean the dupli color engine paint idk what
Yes just realized that rattle campaign is not going to hold up as well as a spray gun paint because of how they have to set it up for atomization. I also don't think that a lot of the battle campaigns have quite the UV inhibitors that you get from high quality enamel paints from the paint store.
East wood satin chassis black
Eastwood is not part of my "usual suspects". Though that is a really great paint . You have to order the paint from Eastwood. Every one of the blacks that I chose was one that you can get locally at the auto parts store or at a box store like Lowe's or Home Depot
John Deere "Blitz Black", thank me later...
You did not mention primer and you should have
@ 6:25 he said it was sprayed on top of EDP
My bad thank you
It is what it is, and it's gone be what it's gone be!😂. I think the bottom line on this personal preference. No right or wrong. Just whatever and whichever a person likes. Durability and how the finish holds up over time? That would be the only real difference. This is IMHO anyways, from one broken down old fat man.
Rattle can paint is good for a car or truck your gonna flip.....if your painting your baby spend a lil money and buy some ppg or dupont. Your paint store can add some flattener if you want a matte or flat color.
I agree to a point. However a lot of us out here in the hobby don't have access to good quality pain equipment to do what you're talking about. Good quality rattle cans will hold up pretty well too A lot of that falls into prep.
Krylon is good, duplicolor is garbage, VHT i wasnt impressed with, rustoleum always impresses... covers well, sticks to anything and is cheap. Not speaking to black per sey, just the brands in general and how they perform, thats just my experience. Duplicolor nozzle is worse than the paint, rustoleum has a nice nozzle.
Interesting thoughts!
Worrying about a couple bucks different per can? Detail a Mopar engine bay. Factory color single stage at $25-30 a can. 😂 Then a can of one of these cheapie to overspray the front behind the grille - over the $$ stuff you just put on.