I hope this was a little more detailed than whatever instructions came with your machine/air assist kit. Did I forget to mention anything? Let me know =)
Thanks, I have the two white tape markings exactly as suggested and the same for the support brackets, I have removed and replaced the tubing a few times and I hope it will not catch on itself next test, cheers.
Best of luck! The first time I did it I thought I had the white marks in the right spot but I was off by one. There should be this sort of slack loop between the bracket on the laser head and where the nozzle clicks onto the laser head.
Thanks for watching! That's a great question. I've done some investigating on those and confirmed that my installation manual does not even mention them apart from listing them under the included parts as spares. It seems like they are meant to go on the lens cover that we install at 5:05 before it threads on. They are sized correctly to fit there and it does feel better threading in that piece when the O-ring is there behind the threads. It seems like it would make a better seal there between the lens cover and the lens so that is what I'm left to believe. Sorry that you have to take my answer with a grain of salt! The poor instructions were what motivated me to make this video...=)
When you run the Air Assist, do you run it on full or High? I am confused why the air assist came with a high, med, low settings and where it should be set?
Hi there! Thanks for watching. My air assist only has a toggle switch similar to what one would see on a computer tower. I'll have a look at the website, maybe they sell a different model now? I got mine at the same time I ordered the xTool M1, about a year ago.
Please always feel free to throw questions like that at me! Sometimes I will have the answer off hand and other times it's a great reason to learn or someone else with knowledge will chime in =)
I have it fitted as per your video but the air assist tube keep catching on itself and also stopping the head moving just juddering on the rails, it also rubs at times on the M1lid, any solutions?
If the brackets are all where they should be and the tube is positioned within them correctly, the laser head should be able to freely move to all four corners when the machine is powered off. So that is a good test that things are positioned correctly. The tube needs to be positioned within the brackets so that there is some slack toward the laser module. On one end of the tubing there should be some white markers that show you where the tube should rest. As far as the tube rubbing against the lid, mine does slightly and it does not cause any problems. I hope this helps, best of luck!
The bracket that attaches to the laser module at 6:58 should direct the hose away from the fan. From there, the hose goes into the long bracket attached to the lip of the top of the laser (attached at 7:42). If these brackets are in the correct positions, the hose should not be able to contact the fan. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks for that. I left my hose inside the printer too long and lasered right through it.! Yikes! He he he. Fixed now. My Xtool doesn't seem to like MDF is that something you all have a problem with?
Yikes! Glad it's all fixed now. So MDF and plywood both have significant amounts of glue and will not cut as easily as hardwood if the same thickness. Be careful with the fumes coming off of either but particularly MDF. I've read that the MDF fumes are bad to breathe in due to all of glue within it. We typically prepare material with the band saw/planer and cut pieces of hardwood. Cherry is a favorite for sure.
@@ArtisansAndArthropodsHey there! You mentioned you liked cutting cherry wood the most. I recently bought some pre-cut wood through Etsy…it was Birch and (being that I don’t know my wood densities obviously but was just looking for 1/8 inch at a good price for a large amount😉) I find it very difficult to cut. The best settings I’ve found are speed of 5 and 2 passes, but when you have small items to cut and it takes 2 passes…yikes. I’ll use the wood up for larger things that can take 2 passes…but what settings do you cut the cherry wood on and is there other would that you have used that easily cuts through with 1 pass? Thanks so much for your help. I’ve looked online trying to find some knowledge but hoping you might have some. Also, thanks for you help with the air assist process. ~Linda
Hey! Thanks for watching and we are glad to have helped! That's interesting that people are selling materials meant for lasers on Etsy..maybe we should get into that game. I also find that for my 10w xTool, I typically cut at a speed of 5 for 2-3 passes. That's for a thickness of 6-8 mm. I think how tight the grain is can be a factor when it comes to punching through something with the laser. I'm often surprised how easily I can get through maple. That said, some woods that I find easy to cut will require more power for a nice dark engraving, again thinking of maple here. To answer your question about getting through in one pass, I've managed to get through cedar in one pass at greater thicknesses than I would expect. The problem is that the wood is relatively weak and it may not be a good choice for smaller cutouts.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods well, I think you should get in the game! There’s lots of sellers on Etsy with wood for our lasers! 😀 Thanks for your info on the wood. It helps a lot! I thought maybe it was just because of the type of wood I got. Overall, I’m pleased with the M1…a little slower than I’d like, but I just put something in to cut while filming for another diy. P.S. I did hit that subscribe button…gotta keep helping us YT diy’ers out…plus, being very helpful to me, deserves the ‘ol press of a finger! 😄 Many blessings!
I hope this was a little more detailed than whatever instructions came with your machine/air assist kit. Did I forget to mention anything? Let me know =)
Thanks, I have the two white tape markings exactly as suggested and the same for the support brackets, I have removed and replaced the tubing a few times and I hope it will not catch on itself next test, cheers.
Best of luck! The first time I did it I thought I had the white marks in the right spot but I was off by one. There should be this sort of slack loop between the bracket on the laser head and where the nozzle clicks onto the laser head.
Best demonstration seen, thanks!
I'm glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
Great video! What are the black o-rings used for? thanks!
Thanks for watching! That's a great question. I've done some investigating on those and confirmed that my installation manual does not even mention them apart from listing them under the included parts as spares. It seems like they are meant to go on the lens cover that we install at 5:05 before it threads on. They are sized correctly to fit there and it does feel better threading in that piece when the O-ring is there behind the threads. It seems like it would make a better seal there between the lens cover and the lens so that is what I'm left to believe. Sorry that you have to take my answer with a grain of salt! The poor instructions were what motivated me to make this video...=)
When you run the Air Assist, do you run it on full or High? I am confused why the air assist came with a high, med, low settings and where it should be set?
Hi there! Thanks for watching. My air assist only has a toggle switch similar to what one would see on a computer tower. I'll have a look at the website, maybe they sell a different model now? I got mine at the same time I ordered the xTool M1, about a year ago.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods That is OK, I will look it up. I was trying to take a shortcut by asking you LOL. Thanks for the very helpful video.
Please always feel free to throw questions like that at me! Sometimes I will have the answer off hand and other times it's a great reason to learn or someone else with knowledge will chime in =)
I have it fitted as per your video but the air assist tube keep catching on itself and also stopping the head moving just juddering on the rails, it also rubs at times on the M1lid, any solutions?
If the brackets are all where they should be and the tube is positioned within them correctly, the laser head should be able to freely move to all four corners when the machine is powered off. So that is a good test that things are positioned correctly. The tube needs to be positioned within the brackets so that there is some slack toward the laser module. On one end of the tubing there should be some white markers that show you where the tube should rest. As far as the tube rubbing against the lid, mine does slightly and it does not cause any problems. I hope this helps, best of luck!
How do keep the hose from hitting the fan when it the head goes home?
The bracket that attaches to the laser module at 6:58 should direct the hose away from the fan. From there, the hose goes into the long bracket attached to the lip of the top of the laser (attached at 7:42). If these brackets are in the correct positions, the hose should not be able to contact the fan. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@ArtisansAndArthropods I have reset my brackets. It has helped! Thank you!
Woop! Glad it was an easy fix!
Thanks for that. I left my hose inside the printer too long and lasered right through it.! Yikes! He he he. Fixed now. My Xtool doesn't seem to like MDF is that something you all have a problem with?
Yikes! Glad it's all fixed now. So MDF and plywood both have significant amounts of glue and will not cut as easily as hardwood if the same thickness. Be careful with the fumes coming off of either but particularly MDF. I've read that the MDF fumes are bad to breathe in due to all of glue within it. We typically prepare material with the band saw/planer and cut pieces of hardwood. Cherry is a favorite for sure.
@@ArtisansAndArthropodsHey there! You mentioned you liked cutting cherry wood the most. I recently bought some pre-cut wood through Etsy…it was Birch and (being that I don’t know my wood densities obviously but was just looking for 1/8 inch at a good price for a large amount😉) I find it very difficult to cut. The best settings I’ve found are speed of 5 and 2 passes, but when you have small items to cut and it takes 2 passes…yikes. I’ll use the wood up for larger things that can take 2 passes…but what settings do you cut the cherry wood on and is there other would that you have used that easily cuts through with 1 pass? Thanks so much for your help. I’ve looked online trying to find some knowledge but hoping you might have some. Also, thanks for you help with the air assist process. ~Linda
Hey! Thanks for watching and we are glad to have helped! That's interesting that people are selling materials meant for lasers on Etsy..maybe we should get into that game. I also find that for my 10w xTool, I typically cut at a speed of 5 for 2-3 passes. That's for a thickness of 6-8 mm. I think how tight the grain is can be a factor when it comes to punching through something with the laser. I'm often surprised how easily I can get through maple. That said, some woods that I find easy to cut will require more power for a nice dark engraving, again thinking of maple here. To answer your question about getting through in one pass, I've managed to get through cedar in one pass at greater thicknesses than I would expect. The problem is that the wood is relatively weak and it may not be a good choice for smaller cutouts.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods well, I think you should get in the game! There’s lots of sellers on Etsy with wood for our lasers! 😀 Thanks for your info on the wood. It helps a lot! I thought maybe it was just because of the type of wood I got. Overall, I’m pleased with the M1…a little slower than I’d like, but I just put something in to cut while filming for another diy. P.S. I did hit that subscribe button…gotta keep helping us YT diy’ers out…plus, being very helpful to me, deserves the ‘ol press of a finger! 😄 Many blessings!