Great video, I have a military Trangia stove which I use with my Swedish M40 mess kit and an unbranded clone version I use with an x frame support, billy can and folding wind shield. Many thanks, regards Broadlander.
An ''old indian trick'' I learned on youtube, is to try washing the inside out with hot water and soap. Then rinsing copiously and letting it dry. Then chasing the holes with a sharp metal object. You might try vinegar on your verdigris in the #2 burner. You can get a near polish, or brightened patina using common fast food ketchup packets [or lemon jiuce] and q-tips. Don't use Brasso as it has ammonia, which can crack the brass when heated. Go light on the soap. After it's dried out you can test fire it with alcohol. The water should burn out with the spirits. They do get brighter. I'd toss #3 away -- maybe poking big holes in the bottom so it can't be used again. The lid may be usable as a spare, but without seeing it in-person, that's just a guess. It too may be AFU.
Thankful I see this comment. I did restore a Trangia burner with Autosol products but yesterday I bought Brasso to try out. When I took a proper smell I almost fainted, didn’t expect the Ammonia😅. Luckily I only polished the lit with Brasso before stumbling across this comment. Thanks!
@@tonnynijholt7090 I had to use Brasso on my belt buckles and some emblems when I was in the military. I remember those fumes on an empty stomach. It will make brass shine like gold. In a [GPA] Gas Pressure Appliance like a Svea 123, Primus 71, Optimus 80, etc -- where the tank or fount is sealed and under pressure to force liquid fuel into vapor for high pressure/ high temperature burning operation, a crack in the pressurized fount could be fatal. In an open burner, wick-fed device, the danger is lessened. If the base cracks, it can be discarded or patched with silver brazing. Before Snuffer/Flame Dampers, the Swedish Army taught their ski troopers to take the rubber O-Ring out of the cap and snuff it with that. I keep a small ex-baked bean can on my patio table for snuffing my Trangias. No worries, Glad to help.
Yes, darker burners has a tendency to basically run amok in a self amplifying loop: the reflected heat from flame and cookware on top will add heat to burner, a blackened heater will absorb heat and use it to accelerate fuel evaporation which will cast off more fierce flame and heat... that gets reflected! and so forth. Once the burner is sufficiently hot, it will push alcohol vapours out so hard it will easily slip by the lid and still add heat to burner case to continue alcohol vapours off gassing, thus sustaining fire. For a runaway burner I recommend putting the lid on, sprinkle a few drops of water on brass burner -it will cool it off much faster than alcohol fumes can sustain heat... I built a typical emergency radiant heater with alcohol burner and large flower/clay pot: the amount of reflected heat from pot would send burner crazy, and it puts out so much heat the clay pots will crack and crumble so burner is now being water cooled by standing on a sponge(carbon felt/fire blanket stuff). The burner will sort of never reach operating temp if it is standing in water, so havig it surrounded by water but partially isolated by sponge it will remain within a decent operating range (putting out about 550W heat / burning 1.23gr/minute). My burner is the M40 Swedish military mess kit burner... Now pushing about 30 yrs or so... Lid is full of cracks, inner brass "cup" also has cracks but still works good and I never leave fuel in it. Issue with leftover fuel is not so much the alcohol, its the water contents that is inseparable* from alcohol. Not only that, alcohol will also attract water from moisture. Water will corrode brass, giving that green varnish... That white crust tho!! Never seen anything like that before! * = Distilling alcohol can only get you to 96% + 4% water, of course you can get to near 100% pure alcohol but it's ridiculosly resource intensive and not viable for comsumer use.
If the holes get a bit clogged ,just use a toothpick. I have used my trangia since 1972 and have never had a problem with it. I now use bio ethanol which burns much cleaner then meths. Leaving unused fuel in the burner has never caused me any problems.
Great comparison/test.👌 I've had a Mini Trangia (the original non-stick frying pan/lid version) since 1989, which I bought for rock climbing days out, long distance trail backpacking and cycle touring. The mates I used to go climbing with used the larger Trangia 25s and 27s for camping trips, so I got a fair few tips from them and I've worked out a few more for myself. Maybe a little dented from being accidentally knocked/dropped and the odd roll down a scree slope in the Lakes, but otherwise all components still in working order. I use other vessels mostly now, but the burner has been in regular use constantly for 33 years, and it still has its original O ring seal in the screw top, which I take out when cleaning to wash off any residue in warm soapy water... not detergent as that can perish rubber). My tips... 1) After use back home, either burn off completely, or empty fuel out and leave the top off to dry out naturally as the wick, contained inside the inner and outer walls below the jets, will still be damp. 2) The green residue is called verdigris which forms on copper and brass (oxidisation like rust on ferrous metal/alloys). I have been guilty of that when I've forgotten to dry out the burner, but it can be cleaned off using an old toothbrush dipped in vinegar. I also use a brass wire suede shoe brush when carbon residue builds up around the jets, and I wash mine out with warm water, leaving to dry out overnight in cooler weather or so on a radiator, or outside in the sun on a hot day. Haven't tried it, but I reckon a steam cleaner might do a good job of shifting carbon build up around the jets. Before I wash out with warm water, I use a pin on the jet holes, and lightly chase them out with a needle file. 3) If you want a faster prime and bloom, put a few drops of fuel in the channel (between the screw thread and the seam of the outer wall) after fueling the centre. Light that, it heats up the jets and transfers to the centre, heating the inner wall and vapourising the fuel in the internal wick faster. 4) Add 10% water to meths to reduce sooting with negligible loss in performance. .... My burner is probably a little cleaner than your intermediate one and the only reason why I think they could be faster is that, over prolonged use, the wick may have been carbonised (like charcoal starved of oxygen) and carbon wicks well. Many use carbon felt for wicks in DIY burners. I would have had a do at rescuing the dangerous one, as the only thing that was dangerous about it was the dent in the jet ring, which is why the simmer ring/snuffer couldn't extinguish it (no problem blowing out when that's in place as you aren't going spill any fuel). I would have attempted to massage that dent out with a ball peen hammer, resting on a piece of softish wood so fuel vapour couldn't leak out, and fuel if you wanted to keep fuel in it in the future. 😀
That's brilliant that your ones are still in working order and thanks for the tips on prolonging the life of mine. I do still have the dented one, So i could have a go at mending it and giving it a good clean up. Thanks for watching and talking the time to comment.
@@TheSussexOutdoorsman No probs, I just remembered another tip. If you’re out in freezing conditions, a butane stove’s pressure drops and it’s harder to get a meths burner to light. You can warm a gas canister by keeping it close to your body, but as soon as it cools down in use, the pressure drops and it’s a low flame plus a canister is a lot bulkier than a Trangia burner which is easy to carry in a trouser or inside jacket pocket. The difference being the performance of the Trangia burner doesn’t drop off once it’s burning, plus they always work having no moving parts. All my stoves now have the ability to burn wood, solid fuel tablets or gel so I never get caught out if I can’t get meths on an excursion.
@@blackboardbloke we had that problem when i was out with the scouts once. Most wanted to take gas burners that just burned like a candle in the cold. but for the few who took meths it was happy days.
They can be cleaned. Plenty of videos on here illustrating the procedure. Obviously the damaged one was allowing to much air past the simmer ring to extinguish it. Glad to hear it will be withdrawn. Burning all the fuel can promote cracking. A problem that many users experience on here. My burner is still working and it’s 42 years old. Treat them correctly and they should last. I did change the rubber seal last year.
That's interesting to know it might be burning out the last of the fuel that can cause the cracking. Do you just pour excess fuel out and leave it? Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I bought two very badly used military Trangia’s .Years of buildup and dirt. I brought them back to their official glory. Shiny brass. I love the military burners . They hold more fuel and the flame doesn’t burn crazy high like the civilian burner does. I enjoy using both types.
I'll have to look out the the military ones. I didn't know they were a thing. Great to hear you got them working like new again. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
We heated our homes with fire and lit our rooms with candles for hundreds of years. I know some people get a bit funny about it, calling me irresponsible for 'playing with fire' indoors. But as you stated. Commonsense applies. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I've had 2 old genuine Trangia spirit burners develop hairline cracks above the join between top and bottom of the outer casing. They burned pretty uncontrollably from those cracks. From what I read, it's a common thing and short of trying to solder it up, means it's scrap time. There also doesn't seem to be any agreement on wether leaving fuel in or not causes it. I like to use bio-ethanol rather than meths as it smells better and doesn't soot any where near as badly. Although it's more expensive. Thanks for the vid :)
I like my trangia burner, you ca take it anywhere. Dont forget the old ones are lrimed the new one needs to be used to settle down a little first. Depends on the fuel you use, i would not use whitespirit indoors as it gives off fumes same applies to parafin. But methalated spirit or etholene should be ok as its cleaner fuel. Its okay indoors provided you dont do anything silly and take a few precautions.
Before next burner performance / efficiency testing pre-weigh each burner dry and just deduct burner weight to assess leftover alcyhol when you just put entire burner on scale. If you have an insulated pad on scale you can weigh it even when still hot.
Weighting the burners would have probably been a more accurate way to do it. But it worked out okay i think and have a realistic answer. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I have 3 trangias but also the home made "fancee feest" which also acts as a pot stand which I think is what your looking for. Costs around £1 to make. Search for it on YT
Have you ever had your trangia burner cracked? Really like the design and performance, but since I watched a video of a burner being cracked by itself not sure anymore. Thanks
I've not had one crack. But i don't let them burn themselves out. I think this is what can make them crack. When i finished with it, i empty any left over fuel (not meant to reuse this but everyone dose) then just leave the cap off to dry out for a day or so. Hope that helps and puts your mind at ease. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching, glad you found the video helpful. The main reason not to blow the burner out is if you accidentally blow into the burner and splash burning fuel everywhere. As i had already covered the fuel and it had still not gone out it was a bit of a last resort to extinguish it.
I think Meths is one of the most common fuels used here. But we have bio-ethanol that it much better in my opinion. This was just want i had to hand. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@theirishoutdoorcook1207 I use denatured alcohol here in the states. It's very clean burning with zero soot. The sweet spot will change depending on the ambient temp as well as how hot the stove gets. I think many if not most of the stands puts the pot too low.
Yeah i get your meaning. The wodding in the older ones will still have meths residue left in it, where as the new one is dry. So will take more fuel to soak in.
Your results can not be comparable as the size of the openings surrounding the kettle in 3 different sizes of Trangia models are different! Just to name 1 point of objection. I would like to see a valid comparison.
That is indeed true in there are a few variables within the experiment. Unfortunately i don't have 3 sets exactly the same. The boiling times may be slightly different but all the burners where alight for the same amount of time, giving a pretty clear result on the amount of fuel used. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I've never used one mate. But they seem very popular with the hiking guys. I think it's not as versatile as a Trangia, more for just 'Get water hot quick.' instead of being able to cook with it.
Oh come on. I blow mine out all the time when it overheats. No big deal. It’s too bad you guys can’t get alcohol in Europe without all that crap in it.
I bought a new Esbit clone of the Trangia civilian burner a couple years ago. I thought it would be German-made from Esbit. But no -- it was made in China. The next year, Chinese copies of the Esbit clone flooded the market. Esbit's only improvement was to add a 2'' steel clip handle onto the simmer ring, so you don't need welders gloves to snuff it out. A Chinese clone I bought [2 for $10 USD] had a slip of gauze sticking out from under the sidewalls. It works OK. I was alarmed that the brochure suggested using white gasoline and kerosene as alternative fuels. I wrote back to ebay about the unsafe instructions. Real Trangia burners are Swedish, unlike Optimus' new Svea 123s which are of Asian origin.
Great video, I have a military Trangia stove which I use with my Swedish M40 mess kit and an unbranded clone version I use with an x frame support, billy can and folding wind shield. Many thanks, regards Broadlander.
An ''old indian trick'' I learned on youtube, is to try washing the inside out with hot water and soap. Then rinsing copiously and letting it dry. Then chasing the holes with a sharp metal object. You might try vinegar on your verdigris in the #2 burner. You can get a near polish, or brightened patina using common fast food ketchup packets [or lemon jiuce] and q-tips. Don't use Brasso as it has ammonia, which can crack the brass when heated. Go light on the soap. After it's dried out you can test fire it with alcohol. The water should burn out with the spirits. They do get brighter.
I'd toss #3 away -- maybe poking big holes in the bottom so it can't be used again. The lid may be usable as a spare, but without seeing it in-person, that's just a guess. It too may be AFU.
Maybe this is way people have complained about the burners cracking. Didn't know that about brasso. Thanks for watching.
Thankful I see this comment. I did restore a Trangia burner with Autosol products but yesterday I bought Brasso to try out. When I took a proper smell I almost fainted, didn’t expect the Ammonia😅. Luckily I only polished the lit with Brasso before stumbling across this comment. Thanks!
@@tonnynijholt7090 I had to use Brasso on my belt buckles and some emblems when I was in the military. I remember those fumes on an empty stomach. It will make brass shine like gold. In a [GPA] Gas Pressure Appliance like a Svea 123, Primus 71, Optimus 80, etc -- where the tank or fount is sealed and under pressure to force liquid fuel into vapor for high pressure/ high temperature burning operation, a crack in the pressurized fount could be fatal. In an open burner, wick-fed device, the danger is lessened. If the base cracks, it can be discarded or patched with silver brazing. Before Snuffer/Flame Dampers, the Swedish Army taught their ski troopers to take the rubber O-Ring out of the cap and snuff it with that. I keep a small ex-baked bean can on my patio table for snuffing my Trangias. No worries,
Glad to help.
Yes, darker burners has a tendency to basically run amok in a self amplifying loop: the reflected heat from flame and cookware on top will add heat to burner, a blackened heater will absorb heat and use it to accelerate fuel evaporation which will cast off more fierce flame and heat... that gets reflected! and so forth. Once the burner is sufficiently hot, it will push alcohol vapours out so hard it will easily slip by the lid and still add heat to burner case to continue alcohol vapours off gassing, thus sustaining fire.
For a runaway burner I recommend putting the lid on, sprinkle a few drops of water on brass burner -it will cool it off much faster than alcohol fumes can sustain heat...
I built a typical emergency radiant heater with alcohol burner and large flower/clay pot: the amount of reflected heat from pot would send burner crazy, and it puts out so much heat the clay pots will crack and crumble so burner is now being water cooled by standing on a sponge(carbon felt/fire blanket stuff). The burner will sort of never reach operating temp if it is standing in water, so havig it surrounded by water but partially isolated by sponge it will remain within a decent operating range (putting out about 550W heat / burning 1.23gr/minute).
My burner is the M40 Swedish military mess kit burner... Now pushing about 30 yrs or so... Lid is full of cracks, inner brass "cup" also has cracks but still works good and I never leave fuel in it. Issue with leftover fuel is not so much the alcohol, its the water contents that is inseparable* from alcohol. Not only that, alcohol will also attract water from moisture.
Water will corrode brass, giving that green varnish... That white crust tho!! Never seen anything like that before!
* = Distilling alcohol can only get you to 96% + 4% water, of course you can get to near 100% pure alcohol but it's ridiculosly resource intensive and not viable for comsumer use.
If the holes get a bit clogged ,just use a toothpick. I have used my trangia since 1972 and have never had a problem with it. I now use bio ethanol which burns much cleaner then meths. Leaving unused fuel in the burner has never caused me any problems.
I'm totally with you on the bio ethanol.. Just used meths for the test as it was what i had to hand. Thanks for watch.
Great comparison/test.👌
I've had a Mini Trangia (the original non-stick frying pan/lid version) since 1989, which I bought for rock climbing days out, long distance trail backpacking and cycle touring. The mates I used to go climbing with used the larger Trangia 25s and 27s for camping trips, so I got a fair few tips from them and I've worked out a few more for myself. Maybe a little dented from being accidentally knocked/dropped and the odd roll down a scree slope in the Lakes, but otherwise all components still in working order. I use other vessels mostly now, but the burner has been in regular use constantly for 33 years, and it still has its original O ring seal in the screw top, which I take out when cleaning to wash off any residue in warm soapy water... not detergent as that can perish rubber).
My tips...
1) After use back home, either burn off completely, or empty fuel out and leave the top off to dry out naturally as the wick, contained inside the inner and outer walls below the jets, will still be damp.
2) The green residue is called verdigris which forms on copper and brass (oxidisation like rust on ferrous metal/alloys). I have been guilty of that when I've forgotten to dry out the burner, but it can be cleaned off using an old toothbrush dipped in vinegar. I also use a brass wire suede shoe brush when carbon residue builds up around the jets, and I wash mine out with warm water, leaving to dry out overnight in cooler weather or so on a radiator, or outside in the sun on a hot day. Haven't tried it, but I reckon a steam cleaner might do a good job of shifting carbon build up around the jets. Before I wash out with warm water, I use a pin on the jet holes, and lightly chase them out with a needle file.
3) If you want a faster prime and bloom, put a few drops of fuel in the channel (between the screw thread and the seam of the outer wall) after fueling the centre. Light that, it heats up the jets and transfers to the centre, heating the inner wall and vapourising the fuel in the internal wick faster.
4) Add 10% water to meths to reduce sooting with negligible loss in performance.
.... My burner is probably a little cleaner than your intermediate one and the only reason why I think they could be faster is that, over prolonged use, the wick may have been carbonised (like charcoal starved of oxygen) and carbon wicks well. Many use carbon felt for wicks in DIY burners.
I would have had a do at rescuing the dangerous one, as the only thing that was dangerous about it was the dent in the jet ring, which is why the simmer ring/snuffer couldn't extinguish it (no problem blowing out when that's in place as you aren't going spill any fuel). I would have attempted to massage that dent out with a ball peen hammer, resting on a piece of softish wood so fuel vapour couldn't leak out, and fuel if you wanted to keep fuel in it in the future. 😀
That's brilliant that your ones are still in working order and thanks for the tips on prolonging the life of mine. I do still have the dented one, So i could have a go at mending it and giving it a good clean up. Thanks for watching and talking the time to comment.
@@TheSussexOutdoorsman No probs, I just remembered another tip. If you’re out in freezing conditions, a butane stove’s pressure drops and it’s harder to get a meths burner to light. You can warm a gas canister by keeping it close to your body, but as soon as it cools down in use, the pressure drops and it’s a low flame plus a canister is a lot bulkier than a Trangia burner which is easy to carry in a trouser or inside jacket pocket. The difference being the performance of the Trangia burner doesn’t drop off once it’s burning, plus they always work having no moving parts. All my stoves now have the ability to burn wood, solid fuel tablets or gel so I never get caught out if I can’t get meths on an excursion.
@@blackboardbloke we had that problem when i was out with the scouts once. Most wanted to take gas burners that just burned like a candle in the cold. but for the few who took meths it was happy days.
Good vid 👍. My trangia is going strong after 28 years of use ...
They are cracking stoves, and should last a lifetime.
To reuse the fuel of the spirit burner with floating carbon bits. Pour the fuel in a paper coffee filter and cone. Bits can plug up the jets.
That's a good idea. I got a load left over after my coffee machine packed up. Thanks for watching and talking time to comment.
They can be cleaned. Plenty of videos on here illustrating the procedure.
Obviously the damaged one was allowing to much air past the simmer ring to extinguish it. Glad to hear it will be withdrawn.
Burning all the fuel can promote cracking. A problem that many users experience on here.
My burner is still working and it’s 42 years old. Treat them correctly and they should last. I did change the rubber seal last year.
That's interesting to know it might be burning out the last of the fuel that can cause the cracking. Do you just pour excess fuel out and leave it? Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I used the pink stuff only to clean both my military Trangia’s. They’re like bran new. Shiny brass. I absolutely love them.
I bought two very badly used military Trangia’s .Years of buildup and dirt. I brought them back to their official glory.
Shiny brass. I love the military burners . They hold more fuel and the flame doesn’t burn crazy high like the civilian burner does.
I enjoy using both types.
I'll have to look out the the military ones. I didn't know they were a thing. Great to hear you got them working like new again. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
@@TheSussexOutdoorsman You can still purchase them. Same price as the civilian. There’s no simmer ring though.
Regarding never use a fire/naked flame indoors, well we all did and still do without issue.
Commonsense applies, but never had water on standby.
We heated our homes with fire and lit our rooms with candles for hundreds of years. I know some people get a bit funny about it, calling me irresponsible for 'playing with fire' indoors. But as you stated. Commonsense applies.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I've had 2 old genuine Trangia spirit burners develop hairline cracks above the join between top and bottom of the outer casing. They burned pretty uncontrollably from those cracks. From what I read, it's a common thing and short of trying to solder it up, means it's scrap time. There also doesn't seem to be any agreement on wether leaving fuel in or not causes it.
I like to use bio-ethanol rather than meths as it smells better and doesn't soot any where near as badly. Although it's more expensive.
Thanks for the vid :)
I'm in agreement with you i prefer bio-ethanol. Shame you have to scrap your old burners. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
I like my trangia burner, you ca take it anywhere. Dont forget the old ones are lrimed the new one needs to be used to settle down a little first.
Depends on the fuel you use, i would not use whitespirit indoors as it gives off fumes same applies to parafin. But methalated spirit or etholene should be ok as its cleaner fuel.
Its okay indoors provided you dont do anything silly and take a few precautions.
Glad you enjoyed the film. Don't burn much fuel indoors just when tinkering with lamps and stoves. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment. X
Before next burner performance / efficiency testing pre-weigh each burner dry and just deduct burner weight to assess leftover alcyhol when you just put entire burner on scale. If you have an insulated pad on scale you can weigh it even when still hot.
Weighting the burners would have probably been a more accurate way to do it. But it worked out okay i think and have a realistic answer. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
@@TheSussexOutdoorsman yeah, yes yes, 'twas fine! Absolutely. I was just thinking you went for the scale n all so next time it'll be easier.
I have 3 trangias but also the home made "fancee feest" which also acts as a pot stand which I think is what your looking for. Costs around £1 to make. Search for it on YT
I did get the little laser cut metal ones. But always up for making stuff. So I'll check it out. Thanks
Have you ever had your trangia burner cracked?
Really like the design and performance, but since I watched a video of a burner being cracked by itself not sure anymore.
Thanks
I've not had one crack. But i don't let them burn themselves out. I think this is what can make them crack. When i finished with it, i empty any left over fuel (not meant to reuse this but everyone dose) then just leave the cap off to dry out for a day or so. Hope that helps and puts your mind at ease. Thanks for watching.
@@TheSussexOutdoorsman
Thank you for the answer!
Thanks for teaching me how to hold a lighter while lighting the trangia burner. Could you tell me why I should never blow out a trangia burner?
Thanks for watching, glad you found the video helpful. The main reason not to blow the burner out is if you accidentally blow into the burner and splash burning fuel everywhere. As i had already covered the fuel and it had still not gone out it was a bit of a last resort to extinguish it.
Clean them up and use a proper fuel. Here in the states we have denatured alcohol which is very clean burning.
I think Meths is one of the most common fuels used here. But we have bio-ethanol that it much better in my opinion. This was just want i had to hand. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Methylated spirit IS the recommended fuel
@@shaunmorrissey7313 I've only used denaturaed alcohol and it doesn't soot up like meths. It burns hot and clean.
The higher the pots or kettles are from the burner it cause’s soot. That’s why there’s a sweet spot from the burner and pots that does not cause soot.
@@theirishoutdoorcook1207 I use denatured alcohol here in the states. It's very clean burning with zero soot. The sweet spot will change depending on the ambient temp as well as how hot the stove gets. I think many if not most of the stands puts the pot too low.
The new one will take longer - the others have the materiel pre soaked so much through use that you are just topping it up....if that makes sense.
Yeah i get your meaning. The wodding in the older ones will still have meths residue left in it, where as the new one is dry. So will take more fuel to soak in.
Your results can not be comparable as the size of the openings surrounding the kettle in 3 different sizes of Trangia models are different! Just to name 1 point of objection. I would like to see a valid comparison.
That is indeed true in there are a few variables within the experiment. Unfortunately i don't have 3 sets exactly the same. The boiling times may be slightly different but all the burners where alight for the same amount of time, giving a pretty clear result on the amount of fuel used.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
Any opinion on Jet boils? What's the burn time like in comparison??
I've never used one mate. But they seem very popular with the hiking guys. I think it's not as versatile as a Trangia, more for just 'Get water hot quick.' instead of being able to cook with it.
Bra ❤❤❤
if you can't find used just buy a new one from one of the better quality rivals
I know there are other spirit burners on the market. But surely trangia is the best.
Oh come on. I blow mine out all the time when it overheats. No big deal. It’s too bad you guys can’t get alcohol in Europe without all that crap in it.
Do you think the newer ones are made in china?
There branding does state 'made in Sweden'. And i hope that is true.
I bought a new Esbit clone of the Trangia civilian burner a couple years ago. I thought it would be German-made from Esbit. But no -- it was made in China. The next year, Chinese copies of the Esbit clone flooded the market. Esbit's only improvement was to add a 2'' steel clip handle onto the simmer ring, so you don't need welders gloves to snuff it out.
A Chinese clone I bought [2 for $10 USD] had a slip of gauze sticking out from under the sidewalls. It works OK. I was alarmed that the brochure suggested using white gasoline and kerosene as alternative fuels. I wrote back to ebay about the unsafe instructions.
Real Trangia burners are Swedish, unlike Optimus' new Svea 123s which are of Asian origin.
The green residue is not unused fuel it's merely verdigris from the natural oxidizing of the brass.
oh thats alright then. ive seen some that are really bad, but they may have been off brand burners, so the brass may not have been so good