Indeed there are some good channels out there on the inter-web but nowhere comes close to just how engaging Stefan's uploads are, the super useful tips and good practice ooze from every sentence. Not a moment of these uploads is without some little gem that can help improve our workshop experience. Many, many thanks Stefan
You are one of the few people who holds the emery cloth in the correct manner! Most of the people use the sanding medium material from under the work not on top as you did.
Stephan, your "Fluxcapacitor" component videos are always very educational & interesting. Even if you demonstrate techniques that some of us will never be able to use (due to less capable and/or non-existent machinery), we can still learn useful techniques based on what you show us to use in our more basic workshops. I definitely look always forward to your videos!
The fact that you took the time to make a cutaway demonstration tool only to scrap it, demonstrates your capabilities as a machinist and teacher. You are passionate about passing your craft on. Thank you very much. Excellent video.
If it's not presumptuous I have a question for either or both of you. It has always struck me that one should not fiddle with the zero calibration of an on-machine measurement system (such as a DRO) if the part size is falling within the repeatability band of that system. It seems to me that would result in a sort of drunken walk, and in theory it further seems to me it would double the variation if an adjustment equal to the deviation from nominal (or target) size was made after every part. Am I off beam, and if not, is it something you think about in any formal way when needing to hold tight specs on a long run batch? (I suppose this would involve quantifying the repeatability with a given setup)
Ich benutze zum präzisen anbohren immer den 120° NC VHM Bohrer, das zentriert den 118er gut. Ansonsten klasse video mit erstklassigen Einsichten. TOP. Danke. Hab zum extrem steifen und präzisen anbohren noch ein Werkzeug gemacht bei dem der Anbohrer direkt im MK2 Kegel steckt. Da wackelt nix mehr. Hat sich bewährt.
Thanks for all the tips. I especially liked the cut-away internal boring demonstration. If you stick a piece of black electrical tape on your chuck, you can use a photodiode to detect when it goes past once a revolution, and then use that signal to trigger a strobe light illuminating the workpiece. That will make the workpiece look stationary regardless of how fast it is rotating. Useful for you, and for filming. Safety Warning: Remember that the work piece is still spinning and therefore dangerous, even though it looks stationary. It is very easy to get careless.
lets be clear now: these new plungers have never been seen before. so they must surely be a newer innovation which is an improvement upon the original design
The high-speed photography, cut away presentation was genius! After watching that I wondered if there is anything that couldn’t be made using techniques and tools like these. And, of course, a smart, experienced machinist! Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Thank you Stefan! I always enjoy your videos. They're both entertaining and very informative. I hope you want to, and are able to, continue doing these videos for a long time!!!!! :)
Fascinating and instructive - as always. The half-section grooving demonstration was very reminiscent of the old pHorn grooving demos which were, at the time, ground breaking, and I'm sure, were produced using very sophisticated video equipment. They certainly kept me mesmerised. Congratulations on such a professional and enlightening demonstration of all the required steps to make these demanding parts. This is what keeps me watching your videos. Thanks.
Another great video Stefan such precision, attention to detail and your explanation to all the different steps of the work. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Having watched your video on cross slide drilling I straight away ordered the parts do suit my lathe. Wish I had realised before how much easier it is, particularly with deep hole drilling. A good piece of information, thanks.
Nicely done. We use a spot drill for our milling operations, these have a 90 degree angle instead of a 60, so much better for the drills when they enter.
Hi Stefan, not sure if you know this but you can probably reverse the tip on your Edding markers. I do it with Pilot brad makers we have in NZ that look identical to the ones you have. The tip has the same shape on both ends and can be easily removed with a pair of small pliers.
Stefan….. WOW ‼️ The lengths you go to, in order to teach/demonstrate your techniques , is extraordinary. Make a dozen parts for a customer… and THEN…. section a facsimile to show otherwise invisible stuff 😳. Thanks mate… that was a pearler 👏👏 Regards Robert
Your tooling is amazing. Every time I watch one of your videos, I end up surfing the web to price Chinese D-bit grinders. I'm still not convinced regarding cross-slide drilling, but I imagine that no person's tailstock is as well aligned as they might think.
I dont want to convert anyone to the way I do things, just want to show what works for my line of work :-) D Bit grinders are beautiful machines for what they can do on a small footprint.
When showing the cutaway brass piece a strobe set to exactly the spindle speed we would have gotten a clearer picture. I used to rebuild centrifuges for dewatering sludge from waste treatment plants. One thing we had to do was balance the the complete machine in the frame. Part of the process required locking the internal screw conveyor in place at the high point of vibration. Almost impossible to repeat with out a strobe.
Nice one on the short Edding markers. I recently found out you can remover the tip and insert it the other way extending the life of the marker. Edding also sels spare tips. I have no affiliate links for you ;-)
Nice work as usual Stefan. From my woodworking side I added an air foot switch to my morticing machine.Just give it a press when you want to clean out the mortise of chips.You might find it useful for the through spindle air on small parts to be able to turn air on and off with a foot. I made the foot switch from an old air gun that had a flap paddle switch.Amazing how your left foot will adapt to flowing the air to suit the job or just a blast at the end before retracting the tool.
Great video! Is there a way to measure the grooves on the inside or is that not necessary? I hope that you do a video on polishing the inside of the parts. Thank you for doing the cut-away parts, they are very instructive.
It’s always interesting to watch you at work. Thanks for the video. Good thing you added the part about the center drill at the end. While watching I was thinking about making a comment. However, I did notice you only used the tip. I’ve found center drills are a lot cheaper than spotting drills too.
Nice work and hand drawings Stefan. I only wish my instructors were as good as you on how to train and learn by example! Thanks a million for sharing and take care!
Thanks Stefan, especially knowing the extra time it takes to film and edit these. Instructions for time travel at 1:19 unclear. Any chance of more detail? Guess I need to wait for more fluxcapacitor parts videos? ;)
I'm a cnc gal myself so they might not be applicable to what you do but do you have any thoughts on split point drills? I use them most of the time instead of standard/solid point drills. I feel like I couldn't go back to predrilling now that I can just drill as I please even on the od of round stock!
16:51 same, but i do it with a laser i fabricobbled from some random parts. It's specifically made for marking the ends of stock, using a junk pipe vise i had that could never be used for actual work because it snapped. I think i spent about 140 euros all in all, two years ago. Worth investing in making something like that because the ease of it defeats any bad habits of not marking stuff, which i used to have and bit me in the derriere a few times. There's commercial laser hand held engravers out there, but they cost a pretty penny, i think i choked a bit when i saw the price :))
Pressured air can have many atmospheres of pressure vs 'vacuum' can at best have one only. Also having compressed air around is more likely than a vacuum pump + hoses and whatnot. And you'd need to sieve out that stuff the vacuum sucks in so it doesn't get into the pump.
How do you stamp the ends of material with that long code number, say 1/2" and below? Back in the day, US steel mills used to color code the ends of their material, but each mill had a different color code!
Nice trick with the air through the spindle. I thought it was interesting that with the small diameter parts, you still ran at only 1800 rpm when cutting OD. When I look up the material cut speeds for carbide on steel they are invariably much higher than I can run my lathe (max 3600rpm) for such a small diameters. For machining ID with a boring bar, I just slow the thing down until it stops chattering. Also appreciate the discussionn about spotting drill angle - very useful for us noobs. Thanks!
Interesting subject, Stefan. These plungers appear to be from the Type E flux capacitor; if so, that 45° bevel would have to be held to a tight angular tolerance. Was that a challenge?
a cheap used fiber laser would be handy for marking drops. Great insight. If you have certs with the material, mark the cert # on the part, full trace.
Thats a degussit bench stone. Basicaly an extreme fine stone (also called ruby stone). Just went over the surface, because the tool left a bit of a fuzy surface that interfered with measurement.
In theory, if the drill bit is at an angle, the tip and some point further down on the drill are not concentric with the desired axis, and the result (in theory) will be a tapered hole. Is this a complete non-issue, or is it a minor issue compared to the basic problem of locating the drill on center, or... something? I LOVE seeing shiny brass chips flying off under bright lights. :) You almost got the synchronization perfect between the video frame rate and the rotation of the lathe on the open brass cuts! :) Hm. Stroboscopic... maybe an LED light switched on when the part turns open-side-front, with the camera on a slow frame rate to integrate frames?
If the drill was indefinitely stiff, youre absolutely correct (Youre also correct in practical terms to a degree). The bigger and shorter the drill gets, the more it would create a conical bore. Longer drills just bend/flex to center and are not stiff enough to "bore" the hole to a cone shape.
I think the 'Schwebung' was wandering and not stable during the cutting. So whatever solution you come up with might need to have some feedback built into it to make it stable enough to work for the camera (see PID control). If you can rule out the camera causing those wanderings itself due to whatever.
You need to sync the spindle to the camera, the frame rates available are fixed and can’t be adjusted to the spindle speed. Cameras here in the US use 24, 30, 60 are the most common, some can go higher. For 24 fps, it is taking 24 pictures per second, so you need to make sure the cutaway surface is facing the camera for all of those 24 pictures per second for it to actually appear stopped. For a cutaway like this, you need 60x your frame rate, so for 24 fps, you need an rpm of about 1440. The FPS in the camera is actually slightly lower than nominal setting so that it does not sync with a dark cycle of your lights running at utility frequency. Your shutter speed then needs to also be fast enough to stop the motion, otherwise it could appear blurred. You could pulse it with short duration flashes of light at the same fps of the camera to stop motion as well instead of having a high shutter speed. The bottom line, if the spindle speed is not correct for the selected frame rate, then the camera will not see the same point in rotation each picture it takes. If you are wanting to stop the motion of a 3 jaw chuck for example, you would multiply your fps times 60 and divide by 3 since there are three identical jaws and the jaws will appear to freeze in place.
Stefan, awesome video. I can't help but think of just the tip jokes about center drilling. I looked at the other comments and it seems your viewers are way more mature than me. Lovely work! :)
I love your videos Dude! When I watch them I feel like a Butcher compared to a Surgeon... I can cut metal with my lathe and mills but you Sir Sculpt with precision... I aspire to be half as good as you. ;-) And I have learned a few good points I will use next time I try inside grooves. Thank You for the good examples and useful information.
I generaly built tooling into the quote - If I buy or grind the tool is often a late decision, depending on what is availible and my motivation ;) Here I knew I need the ID grooving tool - Grinding the tool or purchasing one from pHorn would cost about the same. But pHorn didnt have anything suitable, so grinding it was.
You are going to have a whole time machine when you are done with these parts. Great video as always. Your thru-spindle air system was brilliant and something I will have to do myself. The following question is not intended to be a disparagement at all: Out of curiosity, why do customers come to you with your manual lathe for parts like this when it might be better done on a CNC? The setup cost would be expensive on a CNC, but a run of parts might end up cheaper at the end because you don't have someone manually doing everything for every part. I do a fair bit of machining for a couple of places at my home shop, but they are all one-off things for the most part. If someone asked for flux capacitor parts like what you have been showing over the year (more so for multiple runs of the same part) I would suggest they go with someone else.
as a cnc lathe setter, programmer 12 parts isn't really much of a run, given Stefans level of proficiency he could probably make 12 parts in a similar amount of time as i could on a 2 axis cnc, if you take into consideration the time to write the program, find and set the tools, run it through and then machine 12 parts (lets say 3 minutes each on the side with the int grooves). Then turn it around and do it all again (if i didn't just part it off and chamfer the back end by hand) so lets say two hours for programming and setting the first end, one hour for the second and a minute each plus time for loading to make, that's like 4 hours, maybe more if you run into any issues plus the added cost associated with cnc machining. now lets say we were making 100 parts it would be no contest the cnc would beat manual all day long and lets say instead of a 2 axis it was done on a 5 axis swiss lathe and they only take a minute each complete on both ends then that's 4 times faster than a the 2 axis cnc. Basic economy of scale really the more you make the cheaper and faster it becomes.
@@johnwinter9399 thanks for the reply. I have been doing some runs on my manual lathe (15 parts or so) where I would have killed for a CNC, but I suspect that's mainly due to only having a DRO on one axis.
Stefan has just gone over the top on this one, he puts everyone (most) to shame. Can it get any better? If my flux capacitor breaks down I now know where to get replacement parts, but the only plunger I really need at this time is for my crapper.
Depends on the timeline were in. In one timeline i have made the parts, went back *with* the parts and already had them before the order for the parts came in.
I paused and noted a D60-3V model number, and found a Ditron branded unit on AliExpress. Not sure if this will be the same but I'm considering that DRO now.
Indeed there are some good channels out there on the inter-web but nowhere comes close to just how engaging Stefan's uploads are, the super useful tips and good practice ooze from every sentence. Not a moment of these uploads is without some little gem that can help improve our workshop experience. Many, many thanks Stefan
I would add Robin renzetti to this. Ox tools is great as well. Stefans engineer friend whose name I am sadly forgetting is also quite fantastic.
benrivenbark engineersfindings?
@@benrivenbark tacrafted ?
That cut away machining was an awesome way to visualize blind features in final parts 👌
That was hypnotic. It would have been neat if he could match the frame rate with the rotation.
I am not a machinist or anything, but I could watch you machine things all day, your precession and attention to detail is great.
@SMOKINRC
nennt sich Anbohrer, sieht aus wie 90°.
This is one of my favorite build series on youtube, can't wait to see the finished flux capacitor.
This should be Christmas....Rotary SMP and Gotteswinter video on the same day!
Thanks for pointing out that SMP putted out an other video aswell ☆
Surrely u got an exellent video taste . Lol
Grts from the netherlands
Johny Geerts
I thought the same! best contents
You are one of the few people who holds the emery cloth in the correct manner! Most of the people use the sanding medium material from under the work not on top as you did.
I like to keep my fingers :-)
What an ingenious way to show the internal cutting by cutting the workpiece in half! Compliments!
Stephan, your "Fluxcapacitor" component videos are always very educational & interesting. Even if you demonstrate techniques that some of us will never be able to use (due to less capable and/or non-existent machinery), we can still learn useful techniques based on what you show us to use in our more basic workshops. I definitely look always forward to your videos!
Thanks! I am glad for every customer that allows me to show parts in depth and detail :-)
Excellent job, Stefan! Those internal grooves are the very definition of "Pucker Factor". No room for error anywhere. The cutaway was perfectly done.
Absolutely amazing work. You really inspire the rest of us hacks to step up our game. Danke, Stephan.
Thank you for your time sharing/mentoring….great video production/discussion /demonstration/build….lots of lessons
The fact that you took the time to make a cutaway demonstration tool only to scrap it, demonstrates your capabilities as a machinist and teacher. You are passionate about passing your craft on. Thank you very much. Excellent video.
I think he said he scrapped it, so then he decided to section it
Awesome camera work at the 32 - minute+ mark. "Customers don't usually accept parts that are only partially there." Comic genius!
Very nice work Stefan!
ATB, Robin
If it's not presumptuous I have a question for either or both of you. It has always struck me that one should not fiddle with the zero calibration of an on-machine measurement system (such as a DRO) if the part size is falling within the repeatability band of that system. It seems to me that would result in a sort of drunken walk, and in theory it further seems to me it would double the variation if an adjustment equal to the deviation from nominal (or target) size was made after every part.
Am I off beam, and if not, is it something you think about in any formal way when needing to hold tight specs on a long run batch? (I suppose this would involve quantifying the repeatability with a given setup)
The cut-away cutting demo is awesome! Shows exactly what we didn't get see the first time.
Ich benutze zum präzisen anbohren immer den 120° NC VHM Bohrer, das zentriert den 118er gut. Ansonsten klasse video mit erstklassigen Einsichten. TOP. Danke. Hab zum extrem steifen und präzisen anbohren noch ein Werkzeug gemacht bei dem der Anbohrer direkt im MK2 Kegel steckt. Da wackelt nix mehr. Hat sich bewährt.
welcome back... you used to be on my feed and i missed a lot. glad yer living lets machine a part...
OHOHOHOOO NEW GTWR VIDEO ! Immer Löblich wenn der TH-cam Abend damit beginnt !
Sehr gut erklärt und sehr anschaulich vorgeführt! 👍👍👍😎
Thanks for all the tips.
I especially liked the cut-away internal boring demonstration.
If you stick a piece of black electrical tape on your chuck, you can use a photodiode to detect when it goes past once a revolution, and then use that signal to trigger a strobe light illuminating the workpiece. That will make the workpiece look stationary regardless of how fast it is rotating. Useful for you, and for filming.
Safety Warning: Remember that the work piece is still spinning and therefore dangerous, even though it looks stationary. It is very easy to get careless.
Thank you for taking the time to show the inside machining of the fluxcapacitor plungers.
lets be clear now: these new plungers have never been seen before. so they must surely be a newer innovation which is an improvement upon the original design
@@dreamcat4 requiring only 44mph? Just speculation. :)
Thankyou so much for the time you take to make these fantastic videos for us all. It’s a pleasure to see a master at work, thanks 🙏
The high-speed photography, cut away presentation was genius! After watching that I wondered if there is anything that couldn’t be made using techniques and tools like these. And, of course, a smart, experienced machinist! Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Lol how do you think everything is made?
Thank you Stefan!
I always enjoy your videos. They're both entertaining and very informative.
I hope you want to, and are able to, continue doing these videos for a long time!!!!! :)
Great planning on this video. The half cylinder in sync with the camera frame rate was fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to do that.
Fascinating and instructive - as always. The half-section grooving demonstration was very reminiscent of the old pHorn grooving demos which were, at the time, ground breaking, and I'm sure, were produced using very sophisticated video equipment. They certainly kept me mesmerised. Congratulations on such a professional and enlightening demonstration of all the required steps to make these demanding parts. This is what keeps me watching your videos. Thanks.
Strobe lighting properly tuned to the machine or process speed. Its been used in trouble shooting high speed machinery for years.
@@mpetersen6 I had not thought of that. I was assuming he was somehow syncing the shutter speed with the spindle. Regardless, an excellent result.
Great job young man .. you make it look way to easy !!! Greetings from down under !
Amazing how you were able to film the boring operations on the cut-sway. Super cool!👍👍🙂
Stephen, the cutaway undercut shots were great. It demonstrates what we should be thinking while it's happening. Thanks for taking the time to show us
Another great video Stefan such precision, attention to detail and your explanation to all the different steps of the work. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
The visualization with the cutaway was fantastic!
Super, it's nice to see you are making progress in the development of the fluxcapacitor, I have enjoyed watching as always. Thank you.
very good job stefan..thanks for your time
Having watched your video on cross slide drilling I straight away ordered the parts do suit my lathe. Wish I had realised before how much easier it is, particularly with deep hole drilling. A good piece of information, thanks.
what i noticed today is how all the cutting oil actually keeps staying on the tool. instead of immediately being flung off due to centrifugal forces
really like the part with the cutaway !
thanks stefan,
greetings from the netherlands, ben.
Always enjoy seeing what you’re up to.
Nicely done. We use a spot drill for our milling operations, these have a 90 degree angle instead of a 60, so much better for the drills when they enter.
Terrific video! Really enjoyed that cut away demo!!!
Hi Stefan, not sure if you know this but you can probably reverse the tip on your Edding markers. I do it with Pilot brad makers we have in NZ that look identical to the ones you have. The tip has the same shape on both ends and can be easily removed with a pair of small pliers.
Enjoyable viewing and nice cinematography, thank you.
Thank you for clearing up the spot/center drill issue! The internet would have never forgiven you otherwise :)
Stefan…..
WOW ‼️
The lengths you go to, in order to teach/demonstrate your techniques , is extraordinary.
Make a dozen parts for a customer… and THEN…. section a facsimile to show otherwise invisible stuff 😳.
Thanks mate… that was a pearler 👏👏
Regards
Robert
Marvelous demonstration with the brass halved part. Fun to watch.
Re centre drills, just shows that subtlety of conditions can change an argument! One condition doesnt always cover all circumstances.
Very true - Its not all black and white :-)
Very interesting part ! Thanks for taking us along !
stefan is another level of machinist.
Stefan: Your cut-away camera work on the brass piece removed aall the magic from your technique. Many rhanks!
Your tooling is amazing. Every time I watch one of your videos, I end up surfing the web to price Chinese D-bit grinders. I'm still not convinced regarding cross-slide drilling, but I imagine that no person's tailstock is as well aligned as they might think.
I dont want to convert anyone to the way I do things, just want to show what works for my line of work :-)
D Bit grinders are beautiful machines for what they can do on a small footprint.
Thank you for turning one of you machining mistakes into a cross-section teacher.
Brilliant!
When showing the cutaway brass piece a strobe set to exactly the spindle speed we would have gotten a clearer picture. I used to rebuild centrifuges for dewatering sludge from waste treatment plants. One thing we had to do was balance the the complete machine in the frame. Part of the process required locking the internal screw conveyor in place at the high point of vibration. Almost impossible to repeat with out a strobe.
Nice one on the short Edding markers. I recently found out you can remover the tip and insert it the other way extending the life of the marker. Edding also sels spare tips. I have no affiliate links for you ;-)
Nice work as usual Stefan.
From my woodworking side I added an air foot switch to my morticing machine.Just give it a press when you want to clean out the mortise of chips.You might find it useful for the through spindle air on small parts to be able to turn air on and off with a foot.
I made the foot switch from an old air gun that had a flap paddle switch.Amazing how your left foot will adapt to flowing the air to suit the job or just a blast at the end before retracting the tool.
The cut-a-way demonstration was excellent!!
Awesome video, really interesting.
Great video! Is there a way to measure the grooves on the inside or is that not necessary? I hope that you do a video on polishing the inside of the parts. Thank you for doing the cut-away parts, they are very instructive.
I think I do a seperate short video on how I measured them - That was a bit tricky. Unfortunately I do not have footage of that, only pictures :-\
@@StefanGotteswinter Thank you for the response. I am looking forward to seeing that.
Thanks for taking the time to show us the "how to" with the cut away part.
It’s always interesting to watch you at work. Thanks for the video. Good thing you added the part about the center drill at the end. While watching I was thinking about making a comment. However, I did notice you only used the tip. I’ve found center drills are a lot cheaper than spotting drills too.
Another wonderfully made video Stefan. How would you actualy go about inspecting the internal features of the customer parts?
Excellent and useful as always. Thank you Stefan.
Always learn something when I watch your videos, nice job
Nice work and hand drawings Stefan. I only wish my instructors were as good as you on how to train and learn by example! Thanks a million for sharing and take care!
Thanks Stefan, especially knowing the extra time it takes to film and edit these. Instructions for time travel at 1:19 unclear. Any chance of more detail? Guess I need to wait for more fluxcapacitor parts videos? ;)
Better not, the Department of Temporal Investigations is already up my heels. I might have caused some troubles in 1990.
@@StefanGotteswinter
Between you, This Old Tony and Clickspring I think the three of you have already broken the continuum. 😱
I'm a cnc gal myself so they might not be applicable to what you do but do you have any thoughts on split point drills? I use them most of the time instead of standard/solid point drills. I feel like I couldn't go back to predrilling now that I can just drill as I please even on the od of round stock!
Hi, very interesting thanks for sharing your project video
Great video Stefan, thanks also for the demo with the half-part bronze piece. Cheers from Buenos Aires ;)
Yess my sunday is getting a bit better by seeying your notification ☆☆☆☆☆
Always very enjoyable to watch
Grts johny geerts
16:51 same, but i do it with a laser i fabricobbled from some random parts. It's specifically made for marking the ends of stock, using a junk pipe vise i had that could never be used for actual work because it snapped. I think i spent about 140 euros all in all, two years ago. Worth investing in making something like that because the ease of it defeats any bad habits of not marking stuff, which i used to have and bit me in the derriere a few times. There's commercial laser hand held engravers out there, but they cost a pretty penny, i think i choked a bit when i saw the price :))
I like the through spindle air . I wonder if a vacuum would also work and solve your clearance issue?
Pressured air can have many atmospheres of pressure vs 'vacuum' can at best have one only.
Also having compressed air around is more likely than a vacuum pump + hoses and whatnot.
And you'd need to sieve out that stuff the vacuum sucks in so it doesn't get into the pump.
How do you stamp the ends of material with that long code number, say 1/2" and below?
Back in the day, US steel mills used to color code the ends of their material, but each mill had a different color code!
Nice trick with the air through the spindle. I thought it was interesting that with the small diameter parts, you still ran at only 1800 rpm when cutting OD. When I look up the material cut speeds for carbide on steel they are invariably much higher than I can run my lathe (max 3600rpm) for such a small diameters. For machining ID with a boring bar, I just slow the thing down until it stops chattering. Also appreciate the discussionn about spotting drill angle - very useful for us noobs. Thanks!
AWESOME FOOTAGE OF THE BRASS UNDERCUT SCENE !!!!
Thanks for the upload stephan
Could you pls tell me the actual model number of your Mitutoyo micrometer shown at 4:17. I can't see that info on your site.. Thanks.
Thats a 293-145-30 Quantumike
Next level Stefan, nice work
Making small precision parts is a world of its own.
Great video as always Stefan, keep em’ coming if you can👏
Interesting subject, Stefan. These plungers appear to be from the Type E flux capacitor; if so, that 45° bevel would have to be held to a tight angular tolerance. Was that a challenge?
a cheap used fiber laser would be handy for marking drops. Great insight. If you have certs with the material, mark the cert # on the part, full trace.
Before your final pass you use a red block on the surface. What is that ?
Thats a degussit bench stone. Basicaly an extreme fine stone (also called ruby stone). Just went over the surface, because the tool left a bit of a fuzy surface that interfered with measurement.
Does the customer do an inspection on these to be sure that the internal groove is the right diameter?
So.... how DO you inspect the inner features?
HaHA! That will be subject of a seperate video - Or better slideshow. I dont have any recorded video, but I have a ton of pictures.
Beautiful! Love your videos. (So are these Flux Capacitor parts for TOT's time machine? or do you have a Delorian in your garage.)
Love the cutaway view
Also what lathe are you operating
Thats an Emco Super11 - I did a video on it, years ago
In theory, if the drill bit is at an angle, the tip and some point further down on the drill are not concentric with the desired axis, and the result (in theory) will be a tapered hole. Is this a complete non-issue, or is it a minor issue compared to the basic problem of locating the drill on center, or... something?
I LOVE seeing shiny brass chips flying off under bright lights. :)
You almost got the synchronization perfect between the video frame rate and the rotation of the lathe on the open brass cuts! :) Hm. Stroboscopic... maybe an LED light switched on when the part turns open-side-front, with the camera on a slow frame rate to integrate frames?
If the drill was indefinitely stiff, youre absolutely correct (Youre also correct in practical terms to a degree). The bigger and shorter the drill gets, the more it would create a conical bore.
Longer drills just bend/flex to center and are not stiff enough to "bore" the hole to a cone shape.
Ref: camera shot of inside. I wonder if a synchronous strobe (bright LED) would be enough to convince your camera to sync to the spindle?
i think it would work in a dark room. I have seen woodworkers do that, to freezeframe woodturning.
The easiest way to do it would be to tweak the VFD to slightly change the spindle speed. It would only need a few RPM one way or the other to sync up.
I think the 'Schwebung' was wandering and not stable during the cutting.
So whatever solution you come up with might need to have some feedback built into it to make it stable enough to work for the camera (see PID control).
If you can rule out the camera causing those wanderings itself due to whatever.
You need to sync the spindle to the camera, the frame rates available are fixed and can’t be adjusted to the spindle speed. Cameras here in the US use 24, 30, 60 are the most common, some can go higher. For 24 fps, it is taking 24 pictures per second, so you need to make sure the cutaway surface is facing the camera for all of those 24 pictures per second for it to actually appear stopped. For a cutaway like this, you need 60x your frame rate, so for 24 fps, you need an rpm of about 1440. The FPS in the camera is actually slightly lower than nominal setting so that it does not sync with a dark cycle of your lights running at utility frequency. Your shutter speed then needs to also be fast enough to stop the motion, otherwise it could appear blurred. You could pulse it with short duration flashes of light at the same fps of the camera to stop motion as well instead of having a high shutter speed. The bottom line, if the spindle speed is not correct for the selected frame rate, then the camera will not see the same point in rotation each picture it takes.
If you are wanting to stop the motion of a 3 jaw chuck for example, you would multiply your fps times 60 and divide by 3 since there are three identical jaws and the jaws will appear to freeze in place.
Stefan, awesome video. I can't help but think of just the tip jokes about center drilling. I looked at the other comments and it seems your viewers are way more mature than me. Lovely work! :)
I'd love to see the effect of the kratex before and after under the microscope!
good idea, hmm. I'll see if I can visualize that in a good way.
Very cool demonstration.
Stefan, thanks for a nice presentation.
Just for curiosity, how old is that multifix holder with the internal grooving tool in it ?
Those look like valve guides, but are they ?
Nope, no automotive application :)
Are those plungers for a left handed fluxcapacitor or a right handed one😁
Left hand. But they identify as Right
I love your videos Dude! When I watch them I feel like a Butcher compared to a Surgeon... I can cut metal with my lathe and mills but you Sir Sculpt with precision... I aspire to be half as good as you. ;-) And I have learned a few good points I will use next time I try inside grooves. Thank You for the good examples and useful information.
Hi Stefan, do you charge for customizing tooling when pricing a job? Thank you for your great videos.
I generaly built tooling into the quote - If I buy or grind the tool is often a late decision, depending on what is availible and my motivation ;)
Here I knew I need the ID grooving tool - Grinding the tool or purchasing one from pHorn would cost about the same. But pHorn didnt have anything suitable, so grinding it was.
You are going to have a whole time machine when you are done with these parts. Great video as always. Your thru-spindle air system was brilliant and something I will have to do myself.
The following question is not intended to be a disparagement at all: Out of curiosity, why do customers come to you with your manual lathe for parts like this when it might be better done on a CNC? The setup cost would be expensive on a CNC, but a run of parts might end up cheaper at the end because you don't have someone manually doing everything for every part. I do a fair bit of machining for a couple of places at my home shop, but they are all one-off things for the most part. If someone asked for flux capacitor parts like what you have been showing over the year (more so for multiple runs of the same part) I would suggest they go with someone else.
as a cnc lathe setter, programmer 12 parts isn't really much of a run, given Stefans level of proficiency he could probably make 12 parts in a similar amount of time as i could on a 2 axis cnc, if you take into consideration the time to write the program, find and set the tools, run it through and then machine 12 parts (lets say 3 minutes each on the side with the int grooves). Then turn it around and do it all again (if i didn't just part it off and chamfer the back end by hand) so lets say two hours for programming and setting the first end, one hour for the second and a minute each plus time for loading to make, that's like 4 hours, maybe more if you run into any issues plus the added cost associated with cnc machining.
now lets say we were making 100 parts it would be no contest the cnc would beat manual all day long and lets say instead of a 2 axis it was done on a 5 axis swiss lathe and they only take a minute each complete on both ends then that's 4 times faster than a the 2 axis cnc. Basic economy of scale really the more you make the cheaper and faster it becomes.
@@johnwinter9399 thanks for the reply. I have been doing some runs on my manual lathe (15 parts or so) where I would have killed for a CNC, but I suspect that's mainly due to only having a DRO on one axis.
Nicely done. You make it look so easy. Maybe add a second camera angle to show how you manipulate the controls and DRO?
Lots of usefull tips in this episode. Danke
Thank you for another great video.
How about a vacuum on the back of the spindle? The boring bar would not be in the way?
Stefan has just gone over the top on this one, he puts everyone (most) to shame. Can it get any better? If my flux capacitor breaks down I now know where to get replacement parts, but the only plunger I really need at this time is for my crapper.
But don't you need the completed flux capacitor to go back in time (before you machined these)?
Depends on the timeline were in. In one timeline i have made the parts, went back *with* the parts and already had them before the order for the parts came in.
@@StefanGotteswinter Have you seen my sports almanac?
Hi Stefan, what would you recommend for a decent priced, accurate dro
I paused and noted a D60-3V model number, and found a Ditron branded unit on AliExpress. Not sure if this will be the same but I'm considering that DRO now.