Wonderful to see someone use a spot drill for when a spot drill is suppose to be used. Most self proclaimed machinist tend to use a center drill for that.
Greetings from Austin Texas USA Crispin. Thanks for the mention and nice job on the adapter. Before I go, I have to say you must have a guardian angel to get so lucky to have the die head and tailstock be so close in diameter. Check that off the list. It will never happen again. Stay well.
Thanks Joe. That is a very handy technique you showed the the overcoming of chatter. Very handy for all those with bench top machines as well as chatter is a common issue. Cheers.
the phasing of the lathe chuck with the lights and/or the camera shutter is fantastically cool! the proof is not in the pudding, the proof OF the pudding is in THE EATING (i know this because i eat pudding!). excellent video - thank you!
I like this channel! Been having a binge. Quite a project getting the shop set up, all right. The background music is really good, although quite horrible - but my ears aren't broken half a second after it starts - 10 points!! When I found this vid my thought was how come this old coot hasn't got grey hair like me? Turns out he's not old like me. BUT! You've got the dust coat and the hat, do your top button up, get a tie, get a scribe and a ruler for your top pocket, and lastly a clipboard with the day's project on it. For such a young old coot you make nice stuff! I'm subbing.
Dear Mr Crispin, I'm working my way through your videos, and would like to say thank you for making such entertaining and educational content. Great job, very much appreciated. I found your interviews rather interesting.
As you started machining, my mind was going through the ops. Right after facing, I said, "now center drill, bore, and insert center". I always do those ops first and use a center. Especially, when the stick-out is 3x the diameter.
Very interesting, thanks Mr Crispin. I can see I am going to have to watch your entire back catalogue of videos. Loved the humourous bits as much as the informative bits. 😁👍
Many machining videos hide the audio of the work being done. I think is adds to the 'machining experience' we non-machinists can only imagine. For this reason, along with the musical accompaniments and seven years of videos I will watch to possibly see you smile/laugh, I'm now a subscriber.
Thank you Crispin for a very interesting video. The clamp looked to be well thought out and expertly made, despite the issue with your chuck. Hope it’s relatively easy to resolve. 👏👏👍😀
Time was in short supply so I apologize for rushing through this video. I just wanted to comment that I really liked your setup on the milling machine. Whenever I see a horizontal from a time not so close to this I think I kinda what one myself. My age is such that I remember when this is what was the most common type on the floor and they are too this day extremely versatile and very capable machine tools. I like your shop thank you for taking the time creating the content. Bravo
Morning Mr Crispin 🤠 from sunny Spain 🇪🇸 I do like watching your videos as they’re full of humour with some very good technical information and work thrown in 😆I’m no engineer but do like watching how things are made and problems solved 👍🏻
What a well thought out approach that yielded a result that did not require altering either the tooling or the tool. Well done and keep up the good work!
Great video, Crispin! I always like to see when my favorite TH-cam machinists show their errors (it’s WHY they’re my favorites). By all means, make sure to video how you fix the chuck issue, we’d love to see it. The mustache bit was great, but please: if you are at any time planning to undergo a circumcision, feel free to do that off-camera. 🤣
It is interesting that you have a lathe and milling machine to make parts for your lathe and milling machine. I just finished watching Rotary SMP's latest video, where he said he has a basement full of machine tools to make parts for his basement full of machine tools.
Isn't that why we're all in this hobby? "He who has the most unfinished projects when he died wins"! UFP's my wife called her needlework unfinished projects and boy did she leave a sewing room full. My shop will be just as bad.
Hello Mr. Crispin, Enjoyable viewing, thank you. On the video about correcting the jaws it would be great if you could also include a small section on how to establish if you have the problem, that way us viewers can perform the check. Thank you in advance and see you on the next one. Take care. Paul,,
Butting here, in my case i had trouble parting in the 3 jaw but not the same job in the 4 jaw. "Thinks" thought I. Turned out the 3 jaw had bell mouth, an easy fix to bore using titanium carbide boring bar. Ps the chuck is a good oldcfashioned Pratt Burnerd and yes you can turn them, you dont need to grind.
Hi Crispin, nice design and well executed. Good detective work on the chuck grip, the joys of filming your own work, you get to retrospectively see stuff you would never notice in the heat of battle! Cheers, Jon
I like that Mr C. I mounted my Geometric head on a taper shank, then drilled and taped a hole for a grub screw underneath and through the tale stock quill (where you cannot see it!) to lock the whole assembly in the quill to keep it from pulling out of the taper. It works.
As always first class sir , also must comment on the most excellent musical soundtrack … seems to machine so much better with this particular accompaniment ! Awaiting your three jaw Chuck solution as I have one here doing the same as yours ! Regards Partsmade
I enjoyed the detective work. You can only check so many things when you are overhauling. The rest reveal themselves and you just sort them out. I guess the level of checking and testing depends on what you working with and what level of disaster follows failure or how expensive.
Hello there Mr. Crispin, greetings from Minnesota, USA. I just recently discovered your channel, I've been enjoying your videos. Nice and lighthearted, modest and informative. Particularly enjoyed watching this one and the rationales and process. All the best and stay well.
nice vid mrcrispin, 1 point to adress, i would made a key on the clamp for the tailstock, because the cuttingforces are very high and you would not want that clamp spinning on your tailstock spindel, that would be the end of your tailstock accuratie...
I thought the part moved before you locked the saddle, it appeared to jump a little giving the impression of loose headstock bearings. Nice to see the Myford getting some love... 👍👍👍
I guess we are all guilty of making tools for our tools so we can make tools, eventual outcome is a shop full of tools. Love it, can't have too many tools.
I had the same problem on my 10" p&b 3 jaw at work. I bought another as you know... its work. 🤣 Look forward to seeing your solution it might become more useful than a door stop!
Even your mistakes end up as masterpieces. The whole lathe being a machine to make parts for a mill and vice versa is something I hsve only recently realised.
I did like the stache and sorry to see it leave so abruptly. I have an Atlas 12 x 36 lathe with very little wear or use and it's chuck was terrible to use and material would tend to walk out of it. If you put in a longer shaft you could grab the end and move it back and forth a bit and I could slip a small feeler guage under one jaw. The slots the jaws went into were very tight and the jaws had matching numbers. The one jaw when you put a straight edge on it had a notable crown in the middle and would rock back and forth. Another jaw stuck out further than the other two as I put a boring bar inside and turned by hand it would touch with lots of space from the other jaws. The remaining jaw was sticking out more on one end than the other end. I made a holder for a dremel and opened the jaws and spun the chuck and ground the jaws. They were something to see after but made a world of difference. The chuck is made in England is very narrow and the material is held close to the spindle. I had taken the chuck apart and checked everything and all was good and seemed to have been built very well and everything was tight. I like the chuck and pleased with it now. The runout improved tremendously as well. Dale in Canada 🇨🇦
Great video Mr C, I will never be a machinist but love to watch how you make these things, your hands looked scarily close to that chuck when you were using the scotchbrite to my non trained eye, glad to see it was only your moustache that you lost, can't wait to see you sort out the chuck and carry on with the locomotive build thank you
The better finish with the heavier cut is to do with heat, you can improve the surface finish on lighter cuts by increasing the surface speed if you have higher gears available.
Nice part. I had a chuck like that with "bell mouth" jaws. It's an easy fix if you have a toolpost grinder. But as the saying goes, you can't teach your granny how to lay eggs. Or something like that. 👍
"A cosmetic and geometric cleanup operation" My math teacher hinted at those kind of operations, without really clearing them up. And you just show how its done. I'm flabbergasted.
Make a bed stop for the tailstock to come up against for repeat operations with a Coventry diehead... I have a lineshaft driven turret lathe amongst my collection of antique machine tools... Herbert No.4......an early one from around WW1 🇬🇧😐
Excellent, and very impressed by the choreography but why when you fed a sheet of Boccherini into the lathe did it play an Eric Coates composition? (I think it was Coates)
[06/18/22] Why are you not showing the placement of the magnetic base(s) with dial indicators for monitoring of longitudinal placement of cutting tool, as well as depth of cut on radius of the grooves?
Good evening Mr Crispin, Delighted to see you back ! My Coventry die head floats in a socket with a No.2 morse taper shank to fit the lathe tailstock. A slot machined along the length of the socket, and a close fitting modified socket head screw fitted into the slot and a tapped hole in the shank of the die head allows it to float axially, whilst restrained from rotation. This allows you to lock the tailstock up solid and to do repetitive screw threads to a set length very quickly. I make no claim for originality - it was given to me by a retired tool maker nearly 40 years back, but I offer it as an alternative solution - I think that the die head has to float freely up to an axial stop to trip the die head, and open it up at the end of the thread, and I’m not sure how you will achieve that yet, with your arrangement. If you have a moment or two, can you elaborate please ? Kind regards, Steve A.
The tailstock will be pulled along by the threads and when it comes in to contact with the locked carriage it will cause the die head to open. Interesting to hear about your design
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Thank you for that - I’d forgotten the stop that you fitted to the base of the tailstock - it all makes sense now ! Kind regards, Steve A.
Thanks for showing this. I love Your videos. Apart from the causes already revealed, in my opinion the rpm for grooving and parting off was way too high. I always use my lowest gear.
A neat recovery from potential disaster Mr C. Having watched the subsequent video where you used the sleeve and Coventry head would it make sense, since both the tailstock ram and the arbour of the head have a groove in them, to cut a corresponding keyway in the sleeve to prevent it from rotating on either shaft? On second thoughts maybe not having them firmly locked might provide a "break point" incase something jammed, up even unintentionally. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🤔🇬🇧🍌🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦👍
You look younger without the caterpillar. Or as our American friends like to call it, the cookie duster! 😊 In the meantime can you not pack the chuck and wrap parts with paper until you get round to sorting it? Look forward as always to your future project MrCrispin.
Hello Crispin. I need to make a similar sleeve for the exact same reason. Now that you've used it a bit, do you have any recommendations for changes to your design? Thanks, pal.
I'd guess at the relationship between "filming" in a 50 Hertz neighbourhood and "viewing" in a 60 Hertz neighbourhood. Certainly something going in and out of synchronization between the two frame rates.
I wonder if your chuck issue is that the slots in either the chuck body or the jaws (or both) are worn so that you get an effect similar to jaw vice lift on clamping. I would be interested to find out what it was! Oddly, my first attempt to leave this comment disappeared!
The movement comes from wear in the slots ect which can't really be taken out. What I will have to do is adjust a few things to compensate for the errors.
When you showed the rerun of the last cut with the parting tool you stopped early .. you didn't show the withdrawal of the tool. It removed material on it way out on the headstock side of the groove. Was that also as a consequence of the workpiece moving towards the tailstock ?
Why do I have a lathe and a milling machine? My answer is that the lathe make parts for the milling and the mill makes parts for the lathe. 🤣 Drives the wife crazy!
Wonderful to see someone use a spot drill for when a spot drill is suppose to be used.
Most self proclaimed machinist tend to use a center drill for that.
“Why do I have a lathe and milling machine, so I can make parts for my lathe and milling machine”. Love it!
With a vice on the cross slide you would not need the mill.....
That's usually my asnwer to -particularlity to my wife - when she ask what do I do in my workshop.
Pretty much what I do, too.
Babies, pizza and deadpan ha-ha all pretty much depend on good delivery.
Greetings from Austin Texas USA Crispin. Thanks for the mention and nice job on the adapter. Before I go, I have to say you must have a guardian angel to get so lucky to have the die head and tailstock be so close in diameter. Check that off the list. It will never happen again. Stay well.
Thanks Joe. That is a very handy technique you showed the the overcoming of chatter. Very handy for all those with bench top machines as well as chatter is a common issue. Cheers.
Hey Joe.
Even you watch Mr Crispin!
Jealousy will get you in the end Joe. Third logical extension of Murphy's law don't you think.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇨🇦🕊️🇺🇦🍌🇬🇧🤔🇺🇲🤞
the phasing of the lathe chuck with the lights and/or the camera shutter is fantastically cool!
the proof is not in the pudding, the proof OF the pudding is in THE EATING (i know this because i eat pudding!).
excellent video - thank you!
Yes strange how the chuck has come out like that! It wasn't deliberate!
Nothing better than designing a tool , making it and then finding that it actualy works
I like this channel! Been having a binge. Quite a project getting the shop set up, all right. The background music is really good, although quite horrible - but my ears aren't broken half a second after it starts - 10 points!! When I found this vid my thought was how come this old coot hasn't got grey hair like me? Turns out he's not old like me. BUT! You've got the dust coat and the hat, do your top button up, get a tie, get a scribe and a ruler for your top pocket, and lastly a clipboard with the day's project on it. For such a young old coot you make nice stuff! I'm subbing.
Thanks
Blimey !
Love the music
- and the absence of some facial hair 🤣
Thanks Mr Crispin. Very enjoyable as usual. Please don’t keep us waiting too long for the next one!!
Interesting little tool build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Many thanks for your support!
Beast of a machine, love seeing someone use it with caution but…….with some INENT behind it too 👌🏼❣️
Noooo! 😭
Binged all the videos and now I have to wait for another one. 😢
Love the high level engineering mixed with the very dry, British, humor. 😃
Chatter and jokes whats not to like . All ways good to see you Mr Crispin.
Dear Mr Crispin, I'm working my way through your videos, and would like to say thank you for making such entertaining and educational content. Great job, very much appreciated. I found your interviews rather interesting.
Great to have you watching!
As you started machining, my mind was going through the ops. Right after facing, I said, "now center drill, bore, and insert center". I always do those ops first and use a center. Especially, when the stick-out is 3x the diameter.
Very interesting, thanks Mr Crispin. I can see I am going to have to watch your entire back catalogue of videos. Loved the humourous bits as much as the informative bits. 😁👍
Thanks
Looks like a prop shaft coupler we use on drag boats. Awesome
Many machining videos hide the audio of the work being done. I think is adds to the 'machining experience' we non-machinists can only imagine. For this reason, along with the musical accompaniments and seven years of videos I will watch to possibly see you smile/laugh, I'm now a subscriber.
Thanks
Thank you Crispin for a very interesting video. The clamp looked to be well thought out and expertly made, despite the issue with your chuck. Hope it’s relatively easy to resolve. 👏👏👍😀
I'm looking forward to seeing you use the die head. I've always had an interest in those devices. Well done on the clamping fixture.
Thanks
Time was in short supply so I apologize for rushing through this video. I just wanted to comment that I really liked your setup on the milling machine. Whenever I see a horizontal from a time not so close to this I think I kinda what one myself. My age is such that I remember when this is what was the most common type on the floor and they are too this day extremely versatile and very capable machine tools. I like your shop thank you for taking the time creating the content. Bravo
Thanks for your comment
Morning Mr Crispin 🤠 from sunny Spain 🇪🇸 I do like watching your videos as they’re full of humour with some very good technical information and work thrown in 😆I’m no engineer but do like watching how things are made and problems solved 👍🏻
Thanks.
Always a pleasure and always instructive. Thank you kindly, from Germany.
Thanks
Everything you make is wonderful Mr Crispin even something seemly simple you make look immaculate.
Thanks
Always something to learn in your vids. Thank you Mr Crispin!
Nice to see you back fella. 👍👍
What a well thought out approach that yielded a result that did not require altering either the tooling or the tool. Well done and keep up the good work!
Great video, Crispin! I always like to see when my favorite TH-cam machinists show their errors (it’s WHY they’re my favorites).
By all means, make sure to video how you fix the chuck issue, we’d love to see it.
The mustache bit was great, but please: if you are at any time planning to undergo a circumcision, feel free to do that off-camera. 🤣
Very funny!
It was a moustache? All the time I thought it was a hamster! ;-). Thank you Mr. Crispin for another good and informative video.
Nice job Mr Chrispin.👍👍
Loved the product placement on the bar stock!
It is interesting that you have a lathe and milling machine to make parts for your lathe and milling machine.
I just finished watching Rotary SMP's latest video, where he said he has a basement full of machine tools to make parts for his basement full of machine tools.
Yes I think it's a sentiment that is quote common. I think I saw that line on a forum about 5 years ago.
Isn't that why we're all in this hobby? "He who has the most unfinished projects when he died wins"!
UFP's my wife called her needlework unfinished projects and boy did she leave a sewing room full. My shop will be just as bad.
Hello Crispin, how very helpful it is that the FP1 vertical head can be lifted off by arm power alone. Looking forward to the next.
Yes milling machines are normally a case of the bigger the better but the FP1 is very handy
A beautiful job Mr C!
A much improved finish after the grinding operation and great to see some proper machines being used.
Hello Mr. Crispin,
Enjoyable viewing, thank you. On the video about correcting the jaws it would be great if you could also include a small section on how to establish if you have the problem, that way us viewers can perform the check. Thank you in advance and see you on the next one.
Take care.
Paul,,
Butting here, in my case i had trouble parting in the 3 jaw but not the same job in the 4 jaw. "Thinks" thought I. Turned out the 3 jaw had bell mouth, an easy fix to bore using titanium carbide boring bar. Ps the chuck is a good oldcfashioned Pratt Burnerd and yes you can turn them, you dont need to grind.
Ok good point
Hi Crispin, nice design and well executed. Good detective work on the chuck grip, the joys of filming your own work, you get to retrospectively see stuff you would never notice in the heat of battle! Cheers, Jon
Yes indeed. If there was no camera you would be left wondering! Cheers.
I like that Mr C. I mounted my Geometric head on a taper shank, then drilled and taped a hole for a grub screw underneath and through the tale stock quill (where you cannot see it!) to lock the whole assembly in the quill to keep it from pulling out of the taper. It works.
As always first class sir , also must comment on the most excellent musical soundtrack … seems to machine so much better with this particular accompaniment ! Awaiting your three jaw Chuck solution as I have one here doing the same as yours !
Regards
Partsmade
Agreed, the music is a nice touch.
I enjoyed the detective work. You can only check so many things when you are overhauling. The rest reveal themselves and you just sort them out. I guess the level of checking and testing depends on what you working with and what level of disaster follows failure or how expensive.
Hi Mr Crispin Nice work, I await the repair of the chuck.
Thanks.
Lovely beast of a lathe Mr. Crispin. Your surface grinder does a better job of shaving than I can do for myself. Take care and thanks for the video.
Very nice job, parting inserts can be neutral, left-hand or right-hand for those who weren't aware.
thanks for sharing.
Good point. This one looks like a neutral
Well done Monsieur C. enjoyed the video and looking forward to the chuck repair, cheers!
Nice bit of plunge cutting there Mr Chrispin, surprise you didn't use a center.
I certainly would have done on the Myford!
Hello there Mr. Crispin, greetings from Minnesota, USA. I just recently discovered your channel, I've been enjoying your videos. Nice and lighthearted, modest and informative. Particularly enjoyed watching this one and the rationales and process. All the best and stay well.
Thanks for your comment
nice vid mrcrispin,
1 point to adress, i would made a key on the clamp for the tailstock, because the cuttingforces are very high and you would not want that clamp spinning on your tailstock spindel, that would be the end of your tailstock accuratie...
I regret to only give it 2 thumbs up an I am short 1 thumb. Great video as usual!
Thanks!
That's a great little milling machine love it
Well done, Mr Crispin.
Get a ceramic or CBN insert for your boring bar, and get those jaws back to like-new condition!
Great design on the coupler.
I thought the part moved before you locked the saddle, it appeared to jump a little giving the impression of loose headstock bearings.
Nice to see the Myford getting some love... 👍👍👍
Sid, that wasn't the Myford but his newly acquired Colchester student I believe. Same as Joe pie and TOT use if I'm not mistaken.
@@ronwilken5219 I know, he made the sleeve for the Myford tailstock.
Mr CRISPIN
Once again a great video....👍👍
Thanks
I guess we are all guilty of making tools for our tools so we can make tools, eventual outcome is a shop full of tools. Love it, can't have too many tools.
Fact of engineering life - the need to make the tool to make the fixture to hold the tool to make the part. We love it.
You are entering the relm of This Old Tony, entertainmentwise. My compliments. By the way: the proof is in the eating.
Thanks
That's exactly why we have a lathe and a mill, and very occasionally we make something for the bike. :o)
Blimey! I think you just took Doubleboost’s parting off crown 😮
I had the same problem on my 10" p&b 3 jaw at work. I bought another as you know... its work. 🤣 Look forward to seeing your solution it might become more useful than a door stop!
Good to see you in the shop. I’m going to check my chucks now I’ve seen the consequences.
My first thought was that you would replace the tailstock quill with the stub of the die head!
Good idea, never thought of that!
Got to agree there, i wondered if he would but we would have missed the masterclass. 😀
Excellent as usual Mr C.
Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire.
Thanks
Even your mistakes end up as masterpieces. The whole lathe being a machine to make parts for a mill and vice versa is something I hsve only recently realised.
Is that the music played in the factory workshop of RR? Great!
That music is a bit too speedy for the RR factory!
I generally touch off with a feeler gauge. You should try it.
Thanks for sharing, you look ten years younger without the soup strainer,
I love the way your chuck looks on camera!,,even if it’s bell mouthed!
I did like the stache and sorry to see it leave so abruptly. I have an Atlas 12 x 36 lathe with very little wear or use and it's chuck was terrible to use and material would tend to walk out of it. If you put in a longer shaft you could grab the end and move it back and forth a bit and I could slip a small feeler guage under one jaw. The slots the jaws went into were very tight and the jaws had matching numbers. The one jaw when you put a straight edge on it had a notable crown in the middle and would rock back and forth. Another jaw stuck out further than the other two as I put a boring bar inside and turned by hand it would touch with lots of space from the other jaws. The remaining jaw was sticking out more on one end than the other end. I made a holder for a dremel and opened the jaws and spun the chuck and ground the jaws. They were something to see after but made a world of difference. The chuck is made in England is very narrow and the material is held close to the spindle. I had taken the chuck apart and checked everything and all was good and seemed to have been built very well and everything was tight. I like the chuck and pleased with it now. The runout improved tremendously as well.
Dale in Canada 🇨🇦
Good story.
Great video Mr C, I will never be a machinist but love to watch how you make these things, your hands looked scarily close to that chuck when you were using the scotchbrite to my non trained eye, glad to see it was only your moustache that you lost, can't wait to see you sort out the chuck and carry on with the locomotive build thank you
It's all about knowing what hand operations lead to disaster!
Sweet! For a rookie you did a good job!
The better finish with the heavier cut is to do with heat, you can improve the surface finish on lighter cuts by increasing the surface speed if you have higher gears available.
Didn't know that! I'll have to do an experiment!
That music just made me laugh, its so funny with that phonograph sound, excellent choice!😆
You're laughing at my favorite song? :)
@@ydonlSuch cheerful music
puts a smile on my face!
Workpiece movement in chuck, I'll just mention tailstock and say no more. Always enjoy yur vids Mr C, keep em coming.
I agree the tailstock could help but the part shouldn't move in the jaws in the way it did. Cheers!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I can see a chuck rebuild coming.......
I'm looking forward to you fixing the 3 jaw.
Love the moustache bit😂😂
I've been telling everyone that I lost it in a grinding accident and now they can can see how!
Nice part.
I had a chuck like that with "bell mouth" jaws. It's an easy fix if you have a toolpost grinder. But as the saying goes, you can't teach your granny how to lay eggs. Or something like that. 👍
"A cosmetic and geometric cleanup operation"
My math teacher hinted at those kind of operations, without really clearing them up.
And you just show how its done.
I'm flabbergasted.
Make a bed stop for the tailstock to come up against for repeat operations with a Coventry diehead...
I have a lineshaft driven turret lathe amongst my collection of antique machine tools...
Herbert No.4......an early one from around WW1
🇬🇧😐
Excellent, and very impressed by the choreography but why when you fed a sheet of Boccherini into the lathe did it play an Eric Coates composition? (I think it was Coates)
Nice work crispin.
I sure hope to see more content soon. It's been too long.
Another great video 👍
Lol , i have a Taylor chuck with the same shape jaws ! 👍
[06/18/22] Why are you not showing the placement of the magnetic base(s) with dial indicators for monitoring of longitudinal placement of cutting tool, as well as depth of cut on radius of the grooves?
Because I'm using a digital readout
I am curious as to why you chose to use a collar as apposed to putting a taper onto the tapping head and mounting it into the taper of the tailstock?
The idea I think is that you leave the centre clear so that you don't limit the length of thread you can produce.
Thanks for sharing !
Good evening Mr Crispin,
Delighted to see you back !
My Coventry die head floats in a socket with a No.2 morse taper shank to fit the lathe tailstock. A slot machined along the length of the socket, and a close fitting modified socket head screw fitted into the slot and a tapped hole in the shank of the die head allows it to float axially, whilst restrained from rotation. This allows you to lock the tailstock up solid and to do repetitive screw threads to a set length very quickly.
I make no claim for originality - it was given to me by a retired tool maker nearly 40 years back, but I offer it as an alternative solution - I think that the die head has to float freely up to an axial stop to trip the die head, and open it up at the end of the thread, and I’m not sure how you will achieve that yet, with your arrangement. If you have a moment or two, can you elaborate please ?
Kind regards,
Steve A.
The tailstock will be pulled along by the threads and when it comes in to contact with the locked carriage it will cause the die head to open.
Interesting to hear about your design
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Thank you for that - I’d forgotten the stop that you fitted to the base of the tailstock - it all makes sense now !
Kind regards,
Steve A.
Thanks for showing this. I love Your videos.
Apart from the causes already revealed, in my opinion the rpm for grooving and parting off was way too high. I always use my lowest gear.
You can be standing there for a long time in the lowest gear!
Yes verily interesting indeed. Thank you very much sir.
Another great video, thanks!!!
A neat recovery from potential disaster Mr C.
Having watched the subsequent video where you used the sleeve and Coventry head would it make sense, since both the tailstock ram and the arbour of the head have a groove in them, to cut a corresponding keyway in the sleeve to prevent it from rotating on either shaft?
On second thoughts maybe not having them firmly locked might provide a "break point" incase something jammed, up even unintentionally.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🤔🇬🇧🍌🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦👍
Yes good idea, I just thought that if the forces got that high that I needed a keyway I'm probably overloading the Myford!
Always interesting.
Thank you for the video 🇦🇺
You look younger without the caterpillar. Or as our American friends like to call it, the cookie duster! 😊
In the meantime can you not pack the chuck and wrap parts with paper until you get round to sorting it?
Look forward as always to your future project MrCrispin.
Yes that might help
you wouldn't happen to know were to get a Arbor Support for a fp1 like yours?
I think eBay is about the best bet. Buying one in Germany and having it sent over is also an option as they have allot of Deckel stuff over there.
Hello Crispin. I need to make a similar sleeve for the exact same reason. Now that you've used it a bit, do you have any recommendations for changes to your design? Thanks, pal.
No I think it was ok as is although the amount of length it takes up and clearance over the cross slide is worth considering for smaller machines.
Did you notice the revs while chamfering grooves somewhat matched the camera whatever and would produce effects like Stephan's last.
Yes, strange effect!
I'd guess at the relationship between "filming" in a 50 Hertz neighbourhood and "viewing" in a 60 Hertz neighbourhood. Certainly something going in and out of synchronization between the two frame rates.
Love your videos!
Thanks
I wonder if your chuck issue is that the slots in either the chuck body or the jaws (or both) are worn so that you get an effect similar to jaw vice lift on clamping. I would be interested to find out what it was!
Oddly, my first attempt to leave this comment disappeared!
I think what you have suggested is exactly right.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Well, that would be a bit of a shame, I am not sure if you could rectify that. Prove me wrong!
The movement comes from wear in the slots ect which can't really be taken out. What I will have to do is adjust a few things to compensate for the errors.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I will watch with interest.
At last! Where have you been hiding ?
BTW, that's one serious toolpost!
When you showed the rerun of the last cut with the parting tool you stopped early .. you didn't show the withdrawal of the tool.
It removed material on it way out on the headstock side of the groove.
Was that also as a consequence of the workpiece moving towards the tailstock ?
Can you tell me which point in the video you are referring to?
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I will watch again and find the actual swarf and then you will see you stopped your rerun just prior.
Back in a min.
8 mins in.
It is possible you undercut the edge of the groove and then cleaned up the face as you withdrew. ?
Why do I have a lathe and a milling machine? My answer is that the lathe make parts for the milling and the mill makes parts for the lathe.
🤣
Drives the wife crazy!
I think I preferred the 1970's Michael Palin/Monty Python look?
nice work