The small cylinders where you have to put 40ish psi in them are flimsy and leak. If you forget to verify their pressure before using the jacks you can get into a lot of problem as the jack will not raise equally and the car will tilt to one side. Here is what happened to me: I raise the car, it clicked up equally on both sides, no issues, worked on the car and then when I tried raising the car to un-click the locking arms, only one side was lifting and I was on the side that was lifting so I did not realize that the other side wasn’t going up and I kept trying to raise the car until I realized the car was tilted badly and there was nothing I could do about it; very scary to see your 911 stuck in that position. I waited a while and then tried activated the up switch briefly and repeatedly and somehow it worked 😅 After the ordeal was over I verified everything I could think of and thought there was an hydraulic issue (either the pump or some dirt in the hydraulic line) and then I verified the air pressure in the small cylinders and one was at 20psi while the other was at zero… Fill them up again to 40psi and after a week the pressure was 20psi and the other 40psi, so I have a leaking cylinder. If I only knew how critical this was I would have checked before use (I thought those cylinders where to dampen the system to make the returning the vehicle to the floor a smooth transition which wasn’t something I really cared about) So yeah, check your cylinders pressure!
Oh wow… sorry to hear that. To be honest, I filled those cylinders up at the initial setup of the QuickJacks and have not checked them since. I did take my time bleeding the system as I did not want something to go wrong. If I remember correctly, I think I re-bled them and checked cylinder pressure one more time after raising a car with them. One cylinder was slow to come down completely when the weight of the car was off. It really does suck to hear people having issues with them and all was good with mine. Good luck with them. They are great to have in the garage.
Good, fair review. I bought a 5000TL for my 911 Turbo to help with swapping wheels for track events and brake pad and rotor work mostly. Still need to put them together, but it's been a busy month, but excited to get mine put together and learn all the quirks this system has.
In Australia, our local supplier only has the 5000 and 7000. I enquired about a 6000 for my model S but the supplier has never had orders for them so they will not be in stock here. I will purchase the 7000 with the extension kit, even with this, the 7000 is 200mm too short so I will cut the ext units and add 200mm to each one and re-weld them back together, Good info and 276 liked.
Love the video especially the pro’s and cons segment. Great track car btw. I have a E92 M3, F32 430I and a Honda CRV I was thinking the 7000 SLX is a good bet and the 5000 may be just a bit too short rocker to rocker any thoughts.
@@markflir4148 Thanks. I do like me some E92 M3 as well. Great engine. They’re normally 70” in length and then they have the extended ones which 76” in length. The 76” length Quickjacks lean towards trucks or longer base vehicles. You should be fine with the 70” ones.
Heavy is good for free exercise - who got time for girly man body 😊. I think these are great and pros far outweigh any cons. I do BMW track cars as well and it’s invaluable.
Nice little video, I’d be definitely up for these . More pro’s than cons. Me being me I’d be ordering some T45 tube have a couple of rams made and copying the design, correcting all the normal Chinese quality issues . Let’s face it us E36 owners would probably have to get the welder out to well the rotten jacking points anyway 😂. I would probably say with some additional bracing they could be individually used under the front crossmember and rear diff too . Nice colours, green and silver .👍😃
Thanks man. They have been great. I would like to make them where I can drive the car over them without damage. It’ll be nice not have to pull them out all the time. The car does stand out with the green.
@@larryalbany9527 Ah… the conundrum I was in when deciding what lift to get. I mainly got the Quickjacks for the race track and would use them at the shop when needed. But earlier this year I was looking at purchasing a Maxjack set for the garage as an addition to my signal post lift. If you’re looking to use it more in your garage, I would get the Maxjack or something similar.
Learned that although jacks are on the stops. You can disconnect the hoses. However, you must drain the pressure off the hose otherwise reconnection is a herculean effort. Pressure at the plunger end of connection is almost insurmountable.
Unfortunately for me I got another opportunity to remove the trans during a race weekend and had to use them. No, you don’t need anything under the wheels as it super stable. The car is rock solid on the jacks BUT I am using the rubber blocks which does help it from sliding if you are trying to break something loose. I was grabbing the front sway bar and pulling myself out from under the car when needed. I have had a lot of racers come by when using them saying they were going to buy set.
Thinking about buying one of these, probably the 6000 as my classic cars only weigh a little over 3200#. Being low to the ground, 8-9”, I thought the 6000 would be better than the 5000. ( I was a little unsure but your video helps.)What are your thoughts? Thanks.
Yeah… I sometimes wish I would have purchase a 5000lb one cause the main purpose was for race cars and they weigh around 3,200lbs. BUT…. then I thought about my X5 and wife’s CX9. So I got the 7k lb one. I do not at all regret the purchase. You should be fine with the 5000lb one.
@@tekmotorsports4052 good to know, thanks. I am just now waiting for a quote for either a 5000 or 7000 shipped to me. The 7000 in case anybody else in the car club needs one to use.
I did not want to limit the use of the lift so that’s why I went with the 7k jacks. I have lifted a CX9 and SQ5 with them. All others have been race cars.
I had the MaxJax back in 2011-2012. At the time they cost about 2K. I moved a couple of times and sold them during one of the moves. Now I'm in need of another lift solution for low ceilings and am surprised by the fact they near double in price. The maxjax were worth it at 2K but not at 3600 and realistically no one is going to be screwing and unscrewing the post into the ground because they're a pain to line up. I'm going to try the quickjack this time around. From the video they seem like a easier to use product.
Oh yes, I’m having an issue paying that for a set of MaxJax cause I started looking for another lift option. The QuickJack’s are good and the biggest job I’ve done with them has been R&R a transmission. Great to have at the track as well.
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the car vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it.
REally appreciate the long term and also track perspective on this. Thanks for making this!
The small cylinders where you have to put 40ish psi in them are flimsy and leak. If you forget to verify their pressure before using the jacks you can get into a lot of problem as the jack will not raise equally and the car will tilt to one side. Here is what happened to me: I raise the car, it clicked up equally on both sides, no issues, worked on the car and then when I tried raising the car to un-click the locking arms, only one side was lifting and I was on the side that was lifting so I did not realize that the other side wasn’t going up and I kept trying to raise the car until I realized the car was tilted badly and there was nothing I could do about it; very scary to see your 911 stuck in that position. I waited a while and then tried activated the up switch briefly and repeatedly and somehow it worked 😅 After the ordeal was over I verified everything I could think of and thought there was an hydraulic issue (either the pump or some dirt in the hydraulic line) and then I verified the air pressure in the small cylinders and one was at 20psi while the other was at zero… Fill them up again to 40psi and after a week the pressure was 20psi and the other 40psi, so I have a leaking cylinder. If I only knew how critical this was I would have checked before use (I thought those cylinders where to dampen the system to make the returning the vehicle to the floor a smooth transition which wasn’t something I really cared about) So yeah, check your cylinders pressure!
Oh wow… sorry to hear that. To be honest, I filled those cylinders up at the initial setup of the QuickJacks and have not checked them since. I did take my time bleeding the system as I did not want something to go wrong. If I remember correctly, I think I re-bled them and checked cylinder pressure one more time after raising a car with them. One cylinder was slow to come down completely when the weight of the car was off. It really does suck to hear people having issues with them and all was good with mine. Good luck with them. They are great to have in the garage.
Good, fair review. I bought a 5000TL for my 911 Turbo to help with swapping wheels for track events and brake pad and rotor work mostly. Still need to put them together, but it's been a busy month, but excited to get mine put together and learn all the quirks this system has.
@@NoLimitHonky That’s awesome. Great system for what you’re looking to do.
Thanks for sharing.
In Australia, our local supplier only has the 5000 and 7000. I enquired about a 6000 for my model S but the supplier has never had orders for them so they will not be in stock here. I will purchase the 7000 with the extension kit, even with this, the 7000 is 200mm too short so I will cut the ext units and add 200mm to each one and re-weld them back together, Good info and 276 liked.
Love the video especially the pro’s and cons segment. Great track car btw.
I have a E92 M3, F32 430I and a Honda CRV I was thinking the 7000 SLX is a good bet and the 5000 may be just a bit too short rocker to rocker any thoughts.
@@markflir4148 Thanks. I do like me some E92 M3 as well. Great engine. They’re normally 70” in length and then they have the extended ones which 76” in length. The 76” length Quickjacks lean towards trucks or longer base vehicles. You should be fine with the 70” ones.
They make a pinch weld block that they sell. It's a little expensive but solves the problem you saw.
Nice to know. Thanks.
Just use the jack stand pinch weld circles they'd work just the same
Heavy is good for free exercise - who got time for girly man body 😊. I think these are great and pros far outweigh any cons. I do BMW track cars as well and it’s invaluable.
Agreed… it’s been a great purchase for me. Great at the track.
Nice little video, I’d be definitely up for these .
More pro’s than cons.
Me being me I’d be ordering some T45 tube have a couple of rams made and copying the design, correcting all the normal Chinese quality issues .
Let’s face it us E36 owners would probably have to get the welder out to well the rotten jacking points anyway 😂.
I would probably say with some additional bracing they could be individually used under the front crossmember and rear diff too .
Nice colours, green and silver .👍😃
Thanks man. They have been great. I would like to make them where I can drive the car over them without damage. It’ll be nice not have to pull them out all the time.
The car does stand out with the green.
Hi, if you didn’t need a solution for the track, would you buy these again for garage or would you get maxjack? Or something else?
@@larryalbany9527 Ah… the conundrum I was in when deciding what lift to get. I mainly got the Quickjacks for the race track and would use them at the shop when needed. But earlier this year I was looking at purchasing a Maxjack set for the garage as an addition to my signal post lift. If you’re looking to use it more in your garage, I would get the Maxjack or something similar.
Can you disconnect hoses from jack once car is set on safety locks? Working outside and don't want to leave pump and hoses out overnight.
Yes, as long as it’s on the locks you are good to go. I usually leave the race car on the jackets overnight for the next morning.
Learned that although jacks are on the stops. You can disconnect the hoses. However, you must drain the pressure off the hose otherwise reconnection is a herculean effort. Pressure at the plunger end of connection is almost insurmountable.
@@dennissanders9891 Yeah, I alway release the pressure from the system before discounting them. Sorry that I didn’t mention it previously.
How "stable" are the jacks when fully extended? Do you need to put cribbing under the wheels when the car is fully raised to help stabilize the car?
Unfortunately for me I got another opportunity to remove the trans during a race weekend and had to use them. No, you don’t need anything under the wheels as it super stable. The car is rock solid on the jacks BUT I am using the rubber blocks which does help it from sliding if you are trying to break something loose. I was grabbing the front sway bar and pulling myself out from under the car when needed. I have had a lot of racers come by when using them saying they were going to buy set.
Thanks for sharing the experience on this product. I decided to pass it on😂will stick my roaddawg super duty jack.
When you removed the transmission, did you feel it was stable side to side? Im debating between this or scissor lift.
Yes, she’s stable. But I always use the rubber blocks which in my opinion helps.
@@tekmotorsports4052 thanks for the reply
Thinking about buying one of these, probably the 6000 as my classic cars only weigh a little over 3200#. Being low to the ground, 8-9”, I thought the 6000 would be better than the 5000. ( I was a little unsure but your video helps.)What are your thoughts? Thanks.
Yeah… I sometimes wish I would have purchase a 5000lb one cause the main purpose was for race cars and they weigh around 3,200lbs. BUT…. then I thought about my X5 and wife’s CX9. So I got the 7k lb one. I do not at all regret the purchase. You should be fine with the 5000lb one.
@@tekmotorsports4052 good to know, thanks. I am just now waiting for a quote for either a 5000 or 7000 shipped to me. The 7000 in case anybody else in the car club needs one to use.
Another question. My car is lower in the front end than the back. Is that why you used 2 different sized blocks?
@@doncompardo7166Yep, trying to lift the car evenly. It’s not really a big deal but that’s how I do it.
@@tekmotorsports4052 if I get one I should do that also as there is about 2” difference from the 2 points on the frame where the pucks would go.
What made you decide to go with 7k jacks? Do you lift larger vehicles as well?
I did not want to limit the use of the lift so that’s why I went with the 7k jacks. I have lifted a CX9 and SQ5 with them. All others have been race cars.
I had the MaxJax back in 2011-2012. At the time they cost about 2K. I moved a couple of times and sold them during one of the moves. Now I'm in need of another lift solution for low ceilings and am surprised by the fact they near double in price. The maxjax were worth it at 2K but not at 3600 and realistically no one is going to be screwing and unscrewing the post into the ground because they're a pain to line up. I'm going to try the quickjack this time around. From the video they seem like a easier to use product.
Oh yes, I’m having an issue paying that for a set of MaxJax cause I started looking for another lift option. The QuickJack’s are good and the biggest job I’ve done with them has been R&R a transmission. Great to have at the track as well.
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the car vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it.
Ah man… really sorry to hear that. I know sometime things don’t go to plan and disappointed that they didn’t work with you better on a fix.
Pros and Cons. NOT Pro's and Con's. ...No apostrophes needed
Because Pro and Con is this case are used as nouns, it's gramatically correct to use apostrophes to denote multiples of each.
Who asked
Are you trigered? it bother's you this much?