I have a DC43 with a DC66 head on it. I had to replace the cyclone assembly on mine as it was suffering from smelly vacuum syndrome even after I washed it, and I decided to upgrade the head to one without the lines in the sole plate at the same time. I was later able to fix the smell issue of the old cyclone by using it to vacuum up some fragrance infused baking soda.
Can you please make a video showing how to disassemble & deep clean the DC41 Animal cyclonic canister upper portion (apart from the dust bin which is easy to disconnect)? You washed it in the tub but how do you open up the cyclonic portion? They have plastic 5 tabs around the top. I've tried to push them in with a screwdriver but they don't seem to want to move and I am hesitant to exert too much force with a steel screwdriver on a plastic canister tab.
My Dyson did clean my friends very high traffic thrift store before it was brought up to the "lab" and yes the pre motor filter was washed before hand as well. By the way the seal that seals the cyclones off from the actual dirt bin at the bottom (hope that makes sense) was messed up when I got it and I had to put it back in place so just a cautionary note if they come off easily.
Yup, completely false info. Even paid repair techs submerge the bins to remove pesky odors. The key is to dry them properly. Feel free to peruse my refurb playlist and you'll even see various electrical parts get cleaned in the tub. You have to watch out for people who don't understand Physics and Chemistry.
Fantom licensed the design from james dyson, so it was james dysons cyclone system and hose setup that was on the fantoms, it was when the license expired fantom started to make even more crappy vacuums but with a single cyclone system, I believe this helped contribute to the bankruptcy of fantom, don’t get me wrong I don’t like at dysons at all, I think they are the worst piece of crap out there in the vacuum market
@@VacLab I have a DC65. Got home yesterday and my daughter looks sheepish and tells a story of vacuuming up some coins, and then the vac running hot. It seems fine, but I don't recall it running this hot previously so I'm looking for some baseline info.
Thanks for this current video, and the lessons learned here. My DC40, after opening and carefully cleaning much of the internals as described in many videos, now has a problem that I'm not able to resolve myself. The upright position does not stay 'locked', so the handle will drop to the floor, hence making it very difficult to use the floor/brush head and it's suction power. Have you got another video that I might find helpful, or have any other suggestions?
Any chance you can help me with a part number? I inherited a DC41, and it seems to be missing the elbow that connects between triangular opening in the canister and the duct on the handle assembly. doesn't show up on any parts diagrams I've looked at. It apparently also is the part with the serial number on it. Dyson wants me to bring it in for service, but I'm not driving 75 miles roundtrip to fix a vacuum.
Yeah... Not a good idea to wash the cyclone without removing the foam gasket seals first (if they are rubber then it's ok). Water breaks them down and you will have to replace it if you dont want clumps of dust and hair making it to the filters. Torn seals degrade airflow as well, and just make suction worse over time. I've made the same mistake before.
There is a difference between dirty and damaged. A damaged seal can be easily heard and measured. If you have a suction and/or airflow meter leaks can be verified. The vast majority of Dyson seals are not damaged and that makes it unnecessary to fully disassemble them. If you know how to clean and dry them properly (without complete disassembly), there will be zero issues. My curb find Dyson's have been completely caked/clogged with everything imaginable and submerging them along with a quick dry process works every single time.
Very helpful, thank you so much!
I have a DC43 with a DC66 head on it. I had to replace the cyclone assembly on mine as it was suffering from smelly vacuum syndrome even after I washed it, and I decided to upgrade the head to one without the lines in the sole plate at the same time. I was later able to fix the smell issue of the old cyclone by using it to vacuum up some fragrance infused baking soda.
Imagine Karma that'll work!
I love my Dyson but hate their seriously unhelpful manuals. THANK YOU!
Can you please make a video showing how to disassemble & deep clean the DC41 Animal cyclonic canister upper portion (apart from the dust bin which is easy to disconnect)? You washed it in the tub but how do you open up the cyclonic portion? They have plastic 5 tabs around the top. I've tried to push them in with a screwdriver but they don't seem to want to move and I am hesitant to exert too much force with a steel screwdriver on a plastic canister tab.
There's already a handful of videos that show how to disassemble various DC4X bins on TH-cam. Just search for them and good luck.
My Dyson did clean my friends very high traffic thrift store before it was brought up to the "lab" and yes the pre motor filter was washed before hand as well. By the way the seal that seals the cyclones off from the actual dirt bin at the bottom (hope that makes sense) was messed up when I got it and I had to put it back in place so just a cautionary note if they come off easily.
Thank you for this!
I saw another video/different person/channel that said the canister should not get wet.
Yup, completely false info. Even paid repair techs submerge the bins to remove pesky odors. The key is to dry them properly. Feel free to peruse my refurb playlist and you'll even see various electrical parts get cleaned in the tub.
You have to watch out for people who don't understand Physics and Chemistry.
by the way. before Dyson Cleaner Machines it is a Fantom Cleaner Machines.
Fantom licensed the design from james dyson, so it was james dysons cyclone system and hose setup that was on the fantoms, it was when the license expired fantom started to make even more crappy vacuums but with a single cyclone system, I believe this helped contribute to the bankruptcy of fantom, don’t get me wrong I don’t like at dysons at all, I think they are the worst piece of crap out there in the vacuum market
@@davedebang-bang6168 James Dyson said to Alan Millman the president of Fantom Technologies.
Thank you. Is there a way to turn down a Dyson dc41? The suction is so powerful I can't use it on my mats as it sucks them up.
Nope. Not unless you cut a hole in the hose.
What temperature is expected for the exhaust air? My unit is clean, no blockages, but is blowing 120 to 130F with all filters removed.
As this is Thomas' machine, I don't have it around to specifically test, but newer Dyson exhaust temperatures are hot to be sure. At least 110-115 F.
@@VacLab I have a DC65. Got home yesterday and my daughter looks sheepish and tells a story of vacuuming up some coins, and then the vac running hot. It seems fine, but I don't recall it running this hot previously so I'm looking for some baseline info.
@@dave_manley I would make sure that all filters are clean and wash the cyclones as well. How you seen my bathtub cyclone videos? 😄
@@VacLab yup, thanks. 👍 I usually blow it out with compressed air to avoid the 24 hour dry time, but will try the tub.
Note, i was measuring the temp with all filters, canister, etc removed.
Thanks for this current video, and the lessons learned here.
My DC40, after opening and carefully cleaning much of the internals as described in many videos, now has a problem that I'm not able to resolve myself. The upright position does not stay 'locked', so the handle will drop to the floor, hence making it very difficult to use the floor/brush head and it's suction power. Have you got another video that I might find helpful, or have any other suggestions?
Take it in for service as it appears a part may need to be replaced.
Any chance you can help me with a part number? I inherited a DC41, and it seems to be missing the elbow that connects between triangular opening in the canister and the duct on the handle assembly. doesn't show up on any parts diagrams I've looked at. It apparently also is the part with the serial number on it. Dyson wants me to bring it in for service, but I'm not driving 75 miles roundtrip to fix a vacuum.
I assume you've looked here:
www.partswarehouse.com/Dyson-DC41-Animal-Upright-s/5871.htm
Are the cyclones between models interchangeable?
Not that I know of.
@@VacLab thank you for responding
I have no suction to the head
clogg
How do u take out the bowl dusk
Do you mean the ball dust?
Blown out with your G4? What is a G4?
Kirby G4.
Could that make the motor run hot?
Anything that clogs a vacuum and/or limits airflow can make a motor gradually run hotter.
Thank you
Can you wash your Dyson cyclon
CapetCleaning servicea With rug Doctor look around the 8 and a half minute mark where I wash the cyclone assembly.
Yeah... Not a good idea to wash the cyclone without removing the foam gasket seals first (if they are rubber then it's ok). Water breaks them down and you will have to replace it if you dont want clumps of dust and hair making it to the filters. Torn seals degrade airflow as well, and just make suction worse over time. I've made the same mistake before.
There is a difference between dirty and damaged. A damaged seal can be easily heard and measured. If you have a suction and/or airflow meter leaks can be verified. The vast majority of Dyson seals are not damaged and that makes it unnecessary to fully disassemble them. If you know how to clean and dry them properly (without complete disassembly), there will be zero issues. My curb find Dyson's have been completely caked/clogged with everything imaginable and submerging them along with a quick dry process works every single time.