Good vid but you have the sensors reversed. The straight is the drivers side. The angled is passenger. I literally just pulled the OEM units out and thats how they were. And I seriously doubt they’re reversed since it just became an issue with 160k miles on the car
Hey Stephen, I have a 06 rev up 350z. Do you know if this applies to my motor too? I can't get rid of this code for nothing. My driver side is angled one. I bought 3 different sensors for the driver side. Three different brands. The last one I bought is from Delphi. I changed both cam solenoid sensors, changed the cam sprocket cover twice too. And I'm still getting that code.
Best video out there for a 350z.! I used the force instead of removing the air intake. Thanks for the vid man! I replaced both sides with your help.....
Great video. Thank you for showing to change camshaft sensor on my 350Z. It didn't start 2 different times. We checked the starter, battery and they were find.Keep up the good work.
easier to see on the HR, but no idea how to get at my second cps on drivers side, replacing the first did not fix the code, but no oil in the one I replaced so it should be the other one, if it's not the vvt cover needing replacing. HR has 4 which is sad, I'd be done if it was a DE
Didn't realize how much power and smoothness my Z had lost. New sensor and the car feels new again. It purrs so smooth now, damn it must have been failing but not giving a code for quite some time until finally it started to die on me then it threw a code finally.
Z33 Garage I know I have been fallowing you for some time, even before I bought my Z33. How are your window motors feeling? and the auto window rise up?
2006 Nissan 350Z . I have some issues with the rpms as well , but my rpm are high around 1200 rpm and is constant the don't move from there , gets annoying because is very loud inside the car. also some times when I rapidly accelerate the car to high speed the car in 5 gear lose power or don't accelerate , so I have to go 1 shift down and goes back to normal , but I keep doing it, so I have to wait until the engine cools off and everything goes to normal. I did change the crankshaft sensor the one under the car driver side , but did not fix the issue, do you have any idea ?? also I did clean the throttle body yesterday to see if that help some, but now is worst, the RPM now is at 2000 and jumping up and down . my car is all stock with manual trans. an of course check engine is on with some P codes I don't remember the #, also what the camshaft sensor position sensor regulate ?
First, post the codes. From what you are describing it sounds like you have a significant vaccum leak somewhere causing your idle to go high. Find the codes and post them and then I can go from there. Second check all your vaccume lines for leaks or old cracked lines.
+Z33 Garage UK would sort that out haha. dude, any chance of installing some goodridgee braided brake lines? all over Z33/G35 installs are pants and the braided lines read as a good upgrade. are you on facebook, friend me please david daffin - smart coloured lad with the HOT mrs :D
my 3.5 v6 has three sensors two up top and a third one underneath. I have changed one of them and my car still won't start so I'm going to replace the two up top and see if that works
yes there is but you need a volt meter and electrical knowhow. the FSM shows how to do it but I have not attempted it. I just swap them and call it a day.
What if they have oil outside not inside and can these cause the car not to start I change my crankshaft sensor already took the camshafts out they bouts have oil
The passenger side camshaft sensor on my son's car checkout bad with a multimeter and we changed it with a new one from Autozone. Power was still way down so also just tested the driver side sensor. IT checks out good. Does that guarantee the sensor is not bad/faulty? I've heard also that Autozone sensors don't always work with the 350Z. Is that true?
These cam sensors more than anything turn the car off when bad, not so much drop power. Try taking the batt off for 1 hour and see if it continues, also does the car have any engine codes?
Yes , 4 codes, P0010, P0021, P1273 and P1283. It is using test pipes (no cats) currently which may account for one or more of these. We also did have the battery disconnected and also followed the ECU reset process a couple times. We also found the oil was very dirty and changed it. Solenoids are clean but not sure if they are good.
rfjohns1 i would check up on those codes. I am also running test pipes and I have 1 o2 sensor code permanently there. Try using the my350z forums. Ill try to get some info on this.
I purchased OEM 96166 Camshaft Position Sensor (for left bank/passenger side) on Amazon for $36.95 and OEM 96146 Camshaft Position Sensor (for right bank/driver side) on Amazon for $40.36. One more note-- I neglected to do anything with the battery during my swap. I did not disconnect the negative cable. Not sure whether it made a difference or not or maybe I just got lucky.
How are the aftermarket sensors holding up? Am in the process of changing my sensors also and am trying to decide wether to go with the genuine OEM or aftermarket.to save quite a few dollars.
hey there i replaced driverside cam sensor after getting the slip light and abs along with the cam sensor on driverside code and reset by disconnecting the battery. started up but now im getting the p0300 multiple misfire code which is coming from the same side of that camshaft sensor. i checked coils for resistance and spark which tested good. put new sparkplugs gapped to specs. removed sparkplugs after letting it idle and 4 of them had a little brownish from combustion im guessing but 2 of them on same side of cam are very clean look almost new out the box. I also disconnected the two coils pertaining to those 2 cylinders and seems to run the same. My main question is do the cam sensor have to be calibrated after installing? or is it just coincidence that right after putting a brand new Hitachi cam sensor i am getting these misfires on same side of the cam for the sensor. i would appriate it if you gave me some feedback thanks
Ulises Medina that is very odd. Is the sensor clipped all the way in? I know these have the push on/off clips and those can be easly not clipped all the way in. As far as I have worked with the sensors I dont know if them needing to ne calibrated. Also make sure thr sensor itself is seated correctly, if not maybe ot can leak air causing vaccume leak? Doubtful but still check.
Z33 Garage i took a good look and i can push in the pigtail all the way in but it does not seem to clip on at all i will purchase a new connector and give it a try i guess to see if theres not good connection or something.
I just finished swapping out both sensors in my 2004 350Z. I thought that the passenger side would be easier than the driver side but it was just the opposite in my experience. The passenger side sensor has a fat wire harness loom blocking access to the 10 mm. bolt. It was a struggle holding that damn thing out of the way so that I could get a wrench down there. I found it easiest to just nudge loose the bolt a half turn or so with the wrench and then turn it the rest of the way out by hand. As for the driver side, I did NOT remove anything to access the sensor. After propping up the hood with a board, I crawled on top of the motor and accessed the passenger side sensor from directly above it. I was surprised how it easy it was from this position. Of course, I wouldn't try this if you are a lard ass. I'm fit so it was no trouble for me... but I highly recommend accessing the passenger side sensor from directly above it, if you can manage it. That means feet off the ground, lying prone across the top of the motor and looking straight down on it. (Of course, let the car sit overnight so it's not hot.) Once I had both sensors installed, I ran through the CES light/ECU reset procedure and all warning lights went off and have stayed off.
Good Video. What Jedi tool do you use to remove cam sensor bank 2. Was it the ratchet with the short 10 mm socket or 10mm socket with extension? Or was it the open-end wrench or the closed-end 10 mm wrench. Did you have to use the mirror?
Many thanks for your 350z DIY video. I also changed both sensor today. But After I changed , the engine light slip and tcs light still on. I also restart the ECU, but the lights still on. Do you have any idea to fix this problem.
i have a misfire on my 2005 350z and I've changed spark plugs, coil packs,injectors, tried different fuel rail, added earth and still misfiring -.- if i change this could this solve it?
+Z33 Garage I am trying to do it on the right bolt for sure I just can't seem to fit my ratchet over the bolt . What took did you use on the bolt? A 10mm wrench? Did it have an angle or extension ?
thanks for the speedy replies i appreciate it man. So i was able to get the bolt off and replace the sensor with the exact same one you used in this video. Car ran fine for 30 mins before stalling problems and engine and traction light came on again. took the new sensor out and it was already pretty oily. any ideas??
hey is urs a 2006 rev up like mine? just double checking i bought it and the idiot before me put two sensors of the exact same type on both sides. There was no angled one lol. I assume this is wrong and i need to buy an angled one?
ahh well thanks for the response. From the research i have done i believe all 03-06 DE zs need to have one of each sensors. The HRs are different though. and i guess this makes sense because the 06 rev up motor has the same camshafts as the non rev up de. Plus the part was only 8 bucks free shipping on ebay so its definately worth the gamble to get my engine light off and have it not idle like crap
yes. ebay bro type in nissan 350z camshaft positioning sensor then sort lowest price first. I buy all my parts off ebay some people knock on them because they think they are cheap. when in reality they are all made in the same factory as the expensive ones
May i ask? How did the oil can get into the sensor? Is there any leak or it is just normal for a bad sensor... yesterday i replace those sensor, and mechanic told me there was an oil leaking at the new sensor, right after they replace it.. so, is it normal or there is leaking oil happened.
these sensors are always exposed to oil. the issue occurs when the oil gets inside the sensor (seals give out) and the sensor becomes prose to bad signals which in turn cause missfires. the other thing that can happen is that if your head cover gasket it leaking it may leak on top of the sensor and cause the same types of issues.
Sorry if i did not clear it for you.. the oil spotted inside the connector of the sensor... once it is replaced, mechanice test it for a few run... and they pull out the new sensor to see if there is any oil inside the connector of the new sensor... it is there.. the outside of the connector is dry... but there is oil inside the connector.. i wonder how does the oil get inside the connector of the new sensor while the outside surface of the connector is dry...
+halftrue sierra I see. yes that is deff not good. I would attempt to clean the conector with electrical cleaner. on a new sensor the oil should not go through the sensor and reach to the connector
Thanks for the video dude. Is there any difference between the straight and the bent sensor? I bought 2 online and they have arrived, but they are both bent. Can I still install them both or do you think I should buy a new straight one?
yes there is. it is located (in the manual cars) close to the transmission side under the car I believe. Google has reference images as to the exact location.
my car turned off in the highway then it took more longer to start up and then my slip and vdc came on will the vdc and slip go away after i change the camshaft sensor?
javisolfilomeno you should check your ses light code. that will tell you which sensor is faulty. 90% of the time it's crankshaft sensors, or bad plugs, or oil in spark plug tube.
Thanks for the video, helped a lot! However, upon replacing both sensors I have run into 2 issues I did not have before. The car doesn't start right away, it's like the fuel pump is not getting primed before turning the ignition key; it cranks for way too long before starting. Another issue is that the car feels kinda sluggish, not as responsive as it was before when pressing gas pedal (kind of hard to explain, it just doesn't feel right). After I have installed the sensors, I tried doing the ECU reset by pressing pedals but it wouldn't work; so I just took out the battery for a couple hours. Engine check light for camshaft position sensor would go away for 10-20 minutes then come back. Can anyone advice on what I should do next?
Do you hear the fuel pump priming? Did you have the fuel pump issue before AND after the cam sensor change? Are the sensor connectors 100000% percent plugging into the sensors? ECU codes?
No, I can't hear it priming. There was absolutely no issue with the fuel pump before new sensors. Everything plugged in and fit nicely. ECU is showing the same codes as before I replaced the sensors (camshaft position sensors code, P0340). I will double check that everything is plugged in properly (though I'm fairly certain that it is). Assuming that everything is connected properly, should I install old sensors and see if the car starts the way it should?
I would check the fuel pump fuse. And yes, like you said, I would change the sensors back to the old ones and try to hear the fuel pump. If the pump starts to prime with the old sensors, they might be bad ?? ( not sure what the cam sensors have to do with fuel priming).
Hello sir, so I have a problem with my 2006 350z. I installed a throttle body spacer and a plenum spacer. I've followed your instruction and did everything correctly. When I first install and putting it back together, the car start right after with no problem. Then about 3 days later it doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't start. So do you think that it could be my key immobilizing it or something wrong with the sensor and it wouldn't let me turn over my car. Please I need your help. Thank you.
Z33 Garage well I haven't check that out just yet. All I know right now is that, it crank but would not turn on. But the funny thing is that, I was literally driving it last night. Pull up my drive way. parked, and went back to the car in the morning and it wouldn't start.
So i find out the issues. My car has been set on immobilizer, so my car is lock dont know how it happens. Is there a way that you know how to bypass it or fix that or do i have to bring it in Nissan for them to reprogram my keys?
My car will idle cold and stay idle but once it warms up it stalls. Just dies as if I shut the key off and there’s no shaking, I checked for codes and the car isn’t throwing any codes and these sensors are the ones in question along with the crank sensor. Do you think that might be my problem?
Z33 Garage yes I am positive. And I have not put in new sensor yet I’m just trying to diagnose what’s going on. A vacuum leak is out of the picture and so is the fuel system.
@@narciso19G So were you having the cam sensor codes to start with or no? If it was fuel related the car probably would not idle for a bit and then die after it's warm. Do you have Nissan datascan 2 to check the fuel psi or a z1 gauge?
Z33 Garage I didn’t have the code to begin with, I don’t have anything to check the fuel pressure but the fuel pump is brand new, replaced it when my fuel level sensor stopped reading good. Everyone I ask tells me it’s cam position sensors or crank position sensor.
@@narciso19G the crank and cam sensors will 100 percent throw a code and they will they not let the car crank. What fuel pump did you use? You might be having a fuel pressure issue once the car gets out of closed loop
My 350 keeps throwing the P0300 code. I've replaced the packs, plugs and even the crank sensor cause some people said that might work. They also said changing the camshaft sensor might work so what would you suggest?
Hey man, sorry to hear about your issues. Check and clean your MAF sensor, check for bad hoses causing a vacuum leak, perhaps add a fuel injector cleaner and or check your injectors. You also could be running very rich, or lean. Also could be a bad fuel pump/ old filter causing poor fuel pressure, as well as possible that you got bad fuel. If you have someone local with a cypher cable you can do some datalogging to find when the car begins to fail. Hope this helps!
i bought my 350z not too long but seems like this is a commun issue with them...does this sensor have something to do with the shaking and rpm losing power? btw thanks for sharing this video.
Caballero Dl I believe this IS the reason why. My CRANKshaft sensor was loose (under the car) and that fixed the problem for about a week. I simply tightened it back up. The problem is returning and the code now says the camshaft sensors are the problem so I am going to try cleaning these out and reinstalling them before buying new ones.
xgtownboy cleaning them did not fix it. I bought new sensors (both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor). I installed them and now the issues are gone. When driving with TCS engaged and I would speed off, the slip light would come up. I had to turn TCS off to drive fast without loss of power. This doesn't happen anymore. So it fixed a few issues I was having. I don't know which sensor was the one causing the trouble but I recommend changing all three out of you can afford it.
Usually both sensors wear equally so if one fails, the other is not that far behind. They each throw separate codes (bank 1 or bank 2) so you could swap the one that is coding but at that point you would have to do 2 separate installs and might be more of a PITA.
@@TZMoto ok, is your car manual? The other thing that can cause that is your starter solonoid is stuck closed. That is behind the battery. If you have a manual, and you can push start the car, it would indicate to me that the solonoid is bad. Also this happened to me.
@@Z33Garage isnt the solenoid on the starter itself? Or is there like a relay behind the battery? It is a 6 speed but push starting it where it sits now is impossible.
My Z will on warm startups sometimes have the rpm go very low or stall. This is intermittent and cold starts are perfect. I have no codes on or stored. Could this position sensor be my issue ?
The connector has a green tab in the middle ( BE CAREFUL TO NOT SNAP IT!) that you have to press and at the same time pull the connector back. I had to press the tab with a small screwdriver while I gently pulled the connector. DONT SNAP THE tab! if you do the connector wont stay and will come off while the engine is on.
Z33 Garage well i think it might have snapped. i pushed the green tab carefully until i heard the click and now the green tab wont come back up. do i have to get a new harness or can i just get a new connector?
If I am not mistaken, the tab snaps back out when you connect it back to the sensor. If you broke the tab you need to get a new tab and solder it to the old wires.
Z33 Garage alright, i was told that when i put it back on that i need to have a good grip. what is the cable /connector that is on the same harness, near the middle rear of the engine. i think its dark green
can someone help me, i have a 2007 350z hr and have the code p0345 which is the camshaft position sensor bank 2 sensor a its the driver side , the thing is that i already changed the sensor and nothing happens, keep on throwing the same code, what can i do , what else i can do beside changing the sensor.... thanks in advance. ....
Z33 Garage i did it with the scanner, and also disconnected the battery and keep throwing the same code, i am going to get another sensor, it could be a defective sensor that's what i been told. ..
sweeeet thx dude. i just got a project z with 214xxx miles (i knooooooooooooow whyyyyy?????!?!?!?!) but either a honda fit(lol) or my dream z lol so the other day i literally parked my car went up to ross came back into the lot and wasnt starting like it wanted to but it just wasnt starting. so eventually 5 mins later after trying it started got home got the service engine soon light turns out these sensors are one of the issues. plus i gotta get it checjed out soon one day it started running kinda with that less power now so it feels like i gotta give it that extra push to go faster? any ideas???
Yeah this same issue has happened to me. if your car is manual you can put the car in gear and push it to move the cams a bit and hopefully turn the car on again.
+Z33 Garage it happened again last night on hollywood blvd! lol it took me like 10 mins this time to try and get it running. and sadly its auto. never got the chance to learn stick so im getting a lil stick soon to learn then do a tranny swap hopefully! aside of that has your z ever felt sluggish?
+Jose Ramos lol yeah on autos you can clear the codes and hope it cranks or swap em. sluggish. ..eh only when my spark plugs were covered in oil. I fix this in another of my videos. anything without FI is sluggish to me ;)
+Z33 Garage ohhh yea because I did some research and it says either a cam sensor or the Solenoid so I wasn't sure. I didn't want to take it to a nissan dealer. Thank you very much and I love your videos!
Hi i have a 2003 350z and I have the same problem the car start well but when it running a few miles it show down and it have serious problem to start, and when it running 40 m/h and I push the gas don't accelerate just go up slowly, I the computer said the cam and crank sensor I replaced and still the same problem i change the fuel pump and nothing happens I check MAF sensor it'll me crazy please any ideas I need help thanks
Francisco Sardinas you need to perform the throttle relearn procedures. if you google it you will find the technosquare site that has the diy. hope it helps!!
Jose Perez Jr. this is the same for any Z or G that has the DE motor, so yes. And it's always good practice to disconnect the battery, as opposed to shorting something.
Guillermo Castillo I have a ebay? exhaust called SRS. I got it used and it had new welded tips and a Megan Y pipe. nothing spectacular but it sounds pretty good for eBay and it fit well. also I got it for 150 bucks! :)
Set Ryder well this isn't a power mod or anything, if your sensors are failing your car will ride like shit or stall so swapping them merely fixes the issue and makes the car run normal
Z33 Garage yeah my sensor on bank 2 was bad the expensive one of course and it was bad when I bought the car so never really felt how the car really engaged until I replaced it it was a night and day difference
+specialformula14 you'll get a service engine soon light and a code. for the passenger side (the straight one) the code is 0340. not sure about the driver side
+Isaiah Pisani Yep, Both sensors give codes as soon as they fail. Symptoms of issues are missfires, and or no crank no start. A way to test this, (if you have a 6 speed) is to put the car into gear and "rock" or move the car a bit by pushing. This changes the Cam position and thus "can" help temp start the car. However as these sensors wear ( and get oil inside) they are more prone to failure...usually at the worse times.
I have a 04 Nissan 350Z auto The car would drive for 30mins then the engine check goes on, the slip and traction also go on, if the car is parked for over an hour, the slip and traction would go off and car would start fine and drive fine, after around 30mins they go back on again, car would take long to start, also when the SLIP and traction is on, I can feel a bit of power loss, thought the car would still accelerate to 7000rpm
I have the same issue at the moment with my 03 350z, I also ran the scanner and got bank 1. which one is bank 1 and did the camshaft position sensor fix your issue?
Smoki501 I bit the bullet and bought them at my local auto parts store and used coupons. the store offers lifetime warranty If the sensor fails, and they will fail again so I bought them once and I'm good to go.
Good vid but you have the sensors reversed. The straight is the drivers side. The angled is passenger. I literally just pulled the OEM units out and thats how they were. And I seriously doubt they’re reversed since it just became an issue with 160k miles on the car
LOL yeah I was off when I did my diagram as many times its a afterthought. Good catch man!
stephen shaddox not in my car (2004). I just repacked Bank 1 on the passenger side. Straight.
Hey Stephen, I have a 06 rev up 350z. Do you know if this applies to my motor too? I can't get rid of this code for nothing. My driver side is angled one. I bought 3 different sensors for the driver side. Three different brands. The last one I bought is from Delphi. I changed both cam solenoid sensors, changed the cam sprocket cover twice too. And I'm still getting that code.
I agree with Bill, in my 2003, straight is on the passenger side, just finished replacing it.
Hideaki Sakakibara HR is different, has 4 sensors I think.. hence your code staying, check out "Motordyne G35" channel for more info.
Best video out there for a 350z.! I used the force instead of removing the air intake. Thanks for the vid man! I replaced both sides with your help.....
Awesome Man! Glad you got it working, and yeah not everyone is a force user so had to do it the hard way lol
brandon nemeth hey after you replaced them. Does you car stall or does the engine light ever turn on anymore?
Great video. Thank you for showing to change camshaft sensor on my 350Z. It didn't start 2 different times. We checked the starter, battery and they were find.Keep up the good work.
+Ruby Ann Rosellon Thank you!
easier to see on the HR, but no idea how to get at my second cps on drivers side, replacing the first did not fix the code, but no oil in the one I replaced so it should be the other one, if it's not the vvt cover needing replacing. HR has 4 which is sad, I'd be done if it was a DE
THANKS A TON BROTHER WORKED LIKE A CHARM COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT THIS VID!!
Rahul Chauhan youre welcome!!! glad to be able to help!!!
Didn't realize how much power and smoothness my Z had lost. New sensor and the car feels new again. It purrs so smooth now, damn it must have been failing but not giving a code for quite some time until finally it started to die on me then it threw a code finally.
No kidding. I feel like I have my old car back, and I didn't even notice how it had declined. Whatever this thing does, it's important!
Thx for the DIY video bro! My z just hit 10 years so its about that time to start replacing parts.
Yeah mines 10 as well. :)
Z33 Garage I know I have been fallowing you for some time, even before I bought my Z33. How are your window motors feeling? and the auto window rise up?
+marcus rosser So far the motors are fine man, 1 needed replacement and the other 2 are still good. Auto up is still good too.
I just save a bunch of money by doing it myself, thanks for the video!
glad I was able to help!!
Good video thanks for posting. For the life of me I couldn't figure out where the sensor was (passenger side) til I saw this.
glad to help!
I replaced mine about 10 mins ago, because I had code p0345 but it wont go away, how long do it give for it to go away? (I erased the codes)
I think code PO345 is for the sensor on the drivers side bank 2
2006 Nissan 350Z . I have some issues with the rpms as well , but my rpm are high around 1200 rpm and is constant the don't move from there , gets annoying because is very loud inside the car. also some times when I rapidly accelerate the car to high speed the car in 5 gear lose power or don't accelerate , so I have to go 1 shift down and goes back to normal , but I keep doing it, so I have to wait until the engine cools off and everything goes to normal. I did change the crankshaft sensor the one under the car driver side , but did not fix the issue, do you have any idea ?? also I did clean the throttle body yesterday to see if that help some, but now is worst, the RPM now is at 2000 and jumping up and down . my car is all stock with manual trans. an of course check engine is on with some P codes I don't remember the #, also what the camshaft sensor position sensor regulate ?
First, post the codes. From what you are describing it sounds like you have a significant vaccum leak somewhere causing your idle to go high. Find the codes and post them and then I can go from there. Second check all your vaccume lines for leaks or old cracked lines.
Ok will do thanks!!
will do !!
okay finally I got the codes those are P1078 and P1084
Dude you're a 350z legend, watch all your tip vids - cheers david
Lol I am, I have yet to meet someone who watches my channel at a car meet lol
+Z33 Garage UK would sort that out haha. dude, any chance of installing some goodridgee braided brake lines? all over Z33/G35 installs are pants and the braided lines read as a good upgrade. are you on facebook, friend me please david daffin - smart coloured lad with the HOT mrs :D
my 3.5 v6 has three sensors two up top and a third one underneath. I have changed one of them and my car still won't start so I'm going to replace the two up top and see if that works
the two top ones are for the camshafts. the third in the bottom is for the crank. all 3 give different codes.
Thanks for the reply because I was wondering why the two plugs on top where green and the one on bottom black
+John Smith no prob!!! :)
Ok so I change my camshaft position sensors and on the driver side camshaft sensor there was oil inside of it what should I do next?
Alex Hernandez it had oil on the sensor head or on the electronic pins? If tou swapped it just clear the ECU codes and you are golden.
Is there any way of knowing which one is faulty? or should I replace both?
yes there is but you need a volt meter and electrical knowhow. the FSM shows how to do it but I have not attempted it. I just swap them and call it a day.
+Z33 Garage sweet thanks man. great video. my 350 just recently got the code error
What if they have oil outside not inside and can these cause the car not to start I change my crankshaft sensor already took the camshafts out they bouts have oil
Victor Hugo if there is oil around em, it usually means they are leaking and will get bad signals.
My bank one is leaking.the sensor is good but the oring leaks..im replacing the whole sensor as I found one oem Nissan for 14.$on line
The passenger side camshaft sensor on my son's car checkout bad with a multimeter and we changed it with a new one from Autozone. Power was still way down so also just tested the driver side sensor. IT checks out good. Does that guarantee the sensor is not bad/faulty? I've heard also that Autozone sensors don't always work with the 350Z. Is that true?
These cam sensors more than anything turn the car off when bad, not so much drop power. Try taking the batt off for 1 hour and see if it continues, also does the car have any engine codes?
Yes , 4 codes, P0010, P0021, P1273 and P1283. It is using test pipes (no cats) currently which may account for one or more of these. We also did have the battery disconnected and also followed the ECU reset process a couple times. We also found the oil was very dirty and changed it. Solenoids are clean but not sure if they are good.
rfjohns1 i would check up on those codes. I am also running test pipes and I have 1 o2 sensor code permanently there. Try using the my350z forums. Ill try to get some info on this.
good, no bullshit, just the facts and a bit of swearing to colour it up a bit. thanks man
Don Finch thanks man!
I purchased OEM 96166 Camshaft Position Sensor (for left bank/passenger side) on Amazon for $36.95 and OEM 96146 Camshaft Position Sensor (for right bank/driver side) on Amazon for $40.36. One more note-- I neglected to do anything with the battery during my swap. I did not disconnect the negative cable. Not sure whether it made a difference or not or maybe I just got lucky.
How are the aftermarket sensors holding up? Am in the process of changing my sensors also and am trying to decide wether to go with the genuine OEM or aftermarket.to save quite a few dollars.
hey there i replaced driverside cam sensor after getting the slip light and abs along with the cam sensor on driverside code and reset by disconnecting the battery. started up but now im getting the p0300 multiple misfire code which is coming from the same side of that camshaft sensor. i checked coils for resistance and spark which tested good. put new sparkplugs gapped to specs. removed sparkplugs after letting it idle and 4 of them had a little brownish from combustion im guessing but 2 of them on same side of cam are very clean look almost new out the box. I also disconnected the two coils pertaining to those 2 cylinders and seems to run the same. My main question is do the cam sensor have to be calibrated after installing? or is it just coincidence that right after putting a brand new Hitachi cam sensor i am getting these misfires on same side of the cam for the sensor. i would appriate it if you gave me some feedback thanks
Ulises Medina that is very odd. Is the sensor clipped all the way in? I know these have the push on/off clips and those can be easly not clipped all the way in. As far as I have worked with the sensors I dont know if them needing to ne calibrated. Also make sure thr sensor itself is seated correctly, if not maybe ot can leak air causing vaccume leak? Doubtful but still check.
Z33 Garage i took a good look and i can push in the pigtail all the way in but it does not seem to clip on at all i will purchase a new connector and give it a try i guess to see if theres not good connection or something.
I just finished swapping out both sensors in my 2004 350Z. I thought that the passenger side would be easier than the driver side but it was just the opposite in my experience. The passenger side sensor has a fat wire harness loom blocking access to the 10 mm. bolt. It was a struggle holding that damn thing out of the way so that I could get a wrench down there. I found it easiest to just nudge loose the bolt a half turn or so with the wrench and then turn it the rest of the way out by hand. As for the driver side, I did NOT remove anything to access the sensor. After propping up the hood with a board, I crawled on top of the motor and accessed the passenger side sensor from directly above it. I was surprised how it easy it was from this position. Of course, I wouldn't try this if you are a lard ass. I'm fit so it was no trouble for me... but I highly recommend accessing the passenger side sensor from directly above it, if you can manage it. That means feet off the ground, lying prone across the top of the motor and looking straight down on it. (Of course, let the car sit overnight so it's not hot.) Once I had both sensors installed, I ran through the CES light/ECU reset procedure and all warning lights went off and have stayed off.
thanks man...will do some gymnastics in preparation for the install
Good Video. What Jedi tool do you use to remove cam sensor bank 2. Was it the ratchet with the short 10 mm socket or 10mm socket with extension? Or was it the open-end wrench or the closed-end 10 mm wrench. Did you have to use the mirror?
lmfao I used a 10mm socket and a small extension and my jedi mind tricks to make the bolt come out.
Many thanks for your 350z DIY video. I also changed both sensor today.
But After I changed , the engine light slip and tcs light still on.
I also restart the ECU, but the lights still on. Do you have any idea to fix this problem.
check for ecu codes first.
Yes the OBD2 checked is P0345, its mean bank 2. But I changed the new one already.
Is that because I didnt disconnect the battery before I install?
If I disconnect the battery now, will the engine light turn off?
+Cheng Yu Wang I have no idea. You can seriously mess up the car if you don't disconnect the battery.
You also might have other issues.
+Cheng Yu Wang make sure you have no oil or moisture in the connector.
i have a misfire on my 2005 350z and I've changed spark plugs, coil packs,injectors, tried different fuel rail, added earth and still misfiring -.- if i change this could this solve it?
Check your fuel pressure / pump. check For codes.
Also check for a vacuum leak.
Z33 Garage how do i check fuel pressure? and i don't have any leaks im aware of, cheers
Zion! Ghosts Commentator! you have to get an adapter. or take it to nissan.
great video can does anyone know what code goes with what sensor or is it best just to swap out both sensors when one fails?
I swap both. I'll check for the banks when I get home
IIRC P0345 is driver side (bank 2) and P0340 is passenger side (bank 1)
HOWWW how did you remove the passenger side sensor?? i cant fit my 3/8 wrench and 10 mm dep socket over the bolt? what did you use??
The factory bolt is a 10mm. make sure you are removing the correct bolt. You might have tried removing the wrong one.
+Z33 Garage I am trying to do it on the right bolt for sure I just can't seem to fit my ratchet over the bolt . What took did you use on the bolt? A 10mm wrench? Did it have an angle or extension ?
+Cody Rodrigues I used a small extension.
thanks for the speedy replies i appreciate it man. So i was able to get the bolt off and replace the sensor with the exact same one you used in this video. Car ran fine for 30 mins before stalling problems and engine and traction light came on again. took the new sensor out and it was already pretty oily. any ideas??
+Cody Rodrigues was the outside oily, the actual electrical plug?
the inside is fine for it to be oily, as it sits in the valve cover.
Did you have any problems with the aftermarket one not being the exact same as in the plug in a different location ???
if I rememeber it's under the car close to the clutch.
hey is urs a 2006 rev up like mine? just double checking i bought it and the idiot before me put two sensors of the exact same type on both sides. There was no angled one lol. I assume this is wrong and i need to buy an angled one?
mine is a 05 de non revup. I'm not sure if yours are angled or not :/ I would check courtesy parts to make sure
ahh well thanks for the response. From the research i have done i believe all 03-06 DE zs need to have one of each sensors. The HRs are different though. and i guess this makes sense because the 06 rev up motor has the same camshafts as the non rev up de. Plus the part was only 8 bucks free shipping on ebay so its definately worth the gamble to get my engine light off and have it not idle like crap
+sharpshooternick wait your sesnor was only 8 bucks???
yes. ebay bro type in nissan 350z camshaft positioning sensor then sort lowest price first. I buy all my parts off ebay some people knock on them because they think they are cheap. when in reality they are all made in the same factory as the expensive ones
+sharpshooternick what's their warranty like? I got lifetime on mine from advance auto. no hassle too
sensors on my 03 are giving out . which sensor goes to which bank ?
what do you mean? each bank has its own sensor. the video explains it
What exactly do the camshaft sensors do?
@speeedaholics they give the ecu the exhaust cam sprocket position.
also i herd u should get the new sensor from the dealer because the autozone ones are cheap what do u think?
May i ask? How did the oil can get into the sensor? Is there any leak or it is just normal for a bad sensor... yesterday i replace those sensor, and mechanic told me there was an oil leaking at the new sensor, right after they replace it.. so, is it normal or there is leaking oil happened.
these sensors are always exposed to oil. the issue occurs when the oil gets inside the sensor (seals give out) and the sensor becomes prose to bad signals which in turn cause missfires. the other thing that can happen is that if your head cover gasket it leaking it may leak on top of the sensor and cause the same types of issues.
Sorry if i did not clear it for you.. the oil spotted inside the connector of the sensor... once it is replaced, mechanice test it for a few run... and they pull out the new sensor to see if there is any oil inside the connector of the new sensor... it is there.. the outside of the connector is dry... but there is oil inside the connector.. i wonder how does the oil get inside the connector of the new sensor while the outside surface of the connector is dry...
+halftrue sierra I see. yes that is deff not good. I would attempt to clean the conector with electrical cleaner. on a new sensor the oil should not go through the sensor and reach to the connector
Thanks G, helped me out a lot!
y2k 4ever you're very welcome!!
Thanks for the video dude. Is there any difference between the straight and the bent sensor? I bought 2 online and they have arrived, but they are both bent. Can I still install them both or do you think I should buy a new straight one?
My code says bank 2 is that the one on the drivers side ?
Bank 2 should be the drivers side in a US Z/G.
Is there a crankshaft position sensor in this particular vehicle? If so, where is it located?
yes there is. it is located (in the manual cars) close to the transmission side under the car I believe. Google has reference images as to the exact location.
+Z33 Garage thanks for the quick response! You're awesome!
+ritchie gi no prob! always glad to help
my car turned off in the highway then it took more longer to start up and then my slip and vdc came on will the vdc and slip go away after i change the camshaft sensor?
javisolfilomeno are you still getting the same codes? perhaps you are getting the crank sensor code?
i havent changed my camshaft yet but i was wondering if a bad camshaft causes the vdc and slip to turn on. the camshaft that is bad is in bank 2
javisolfilomeno yes that would cause it
alright good to know thank i appriciate your help got yourself a sub cause right now i cant take turn the light off
javisolfilomeno you should check your ses light code. that will tell you which sensor is faulty. 90% of the time it's crankshaft sensors, or bad plugs, or oil in spark plug tube.
Thanks for the video, helped a lot! However, upon replacing both sensors I have run into 2 issues I did not have before. The car doesn't start right away, it's like the fuel pump is not getting primed before turning the ignition key; it cranks for way too long before starting. Another issue is that the car feels kinda sluggish, not as responsive as it was before when pressing gas pedal (kind of hard to explain, it just doesn't feel right).
After I have installed the sensors, I tried doing the ECU reset by pressing pedals but it wouldn't work; so I just took out the battery for a couple hours. Engine check light for camshaft position sensor would go away for 10-20 minutes then come back.
Can anyone advice on what I should do next?
Do you hear the fuel pump priming?
Did you have the fuel pump issue before AND after the cam sensor change?
Are the sensor connectors 100000% percent plugging into the sensors?
ECU codes?
No, I can't hear it priming.
There was absolutely no issue with the fuel pump before new sensors.
Everything plugged in and fit nicely.
ECU is showing the same codes as before I replaced the sensors (camshaft position sensors code, P0340).
I will double check that everything is plugged in properly (though I'm fairly certain that it is). Assuming that everything is connected properly, should I install old sensors and see if the car starts the way it should?
I would check the fuel pump fuse. And yes, like you said, I would change the sensors back to the old ones and try to hear the fuel pump. If the pump starts to prime with the old sensors, they might be bad ?? ( not sure what the cam sensors have to do with fuel priming).
Hello sir, so I have a problem with my 2006 350z. I installed a throttle body spacer and a plenum spacer. I've followed your instruction and did everything correctly. When I first install and putting it back together, the car start right after with no problem. Then about 3 days later it doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't start. So do you think that it could be my key immobilizing it or something wrong with the sensor and it wouldn't let me turn over my car. Please I need your help. Thank you.
Marcus Mai any engine codes?
Z33 Garage well I haven't check that out just yet. All I know right now is that, it crank but would not turn on. But the funny thing is that, I was literally driving it last night. Pull up my drive way. parked, and went back to the car in the morning and it wouldn't start.
Marcus Mai make sure ur sensors are plugged in amd didnt wiggle out. Mine did that
So i find out the issues. My car has been set on immobilizer, so my car is lock dont know how it happens. Is there a way that you know how to bypass it or fix that or do i have to bring it in Nissan for them to reprogram my keys?
Marcus Marcus How did you exactly find that out ?
So I'll be doing the Bank 1 sensor soon. So is it just plug and play, or did you have to do anything with the cam timing?
RoadTripsAndSkateTips plug and play bro. you might have to reset the ecu but that would be it.
Alright thank you man!
My car will idle cold and stay idle but once it warms up it stalls. Just dies as if I shut the key off and there’s no shaking, I checked for codes and the car isn’t throwing any codes and these sensors are the ones in question along with the crank sensor. Do you think that might be my problem?
You are sure you have the correct sensor in correctly, and same with the connectors?
Z33 Garage yes I am positive. And I have not put in new sensor yet I’m just trying to diagnose what’s going on. A vacuum leak is out of the picture and so is the fuel system.
@@narciso19G So were you having the cam sensor codes to start with or no? If it was fuel related the car probably would not idle for a bit and then die after it's warm. Do you have Nissan datascan 2 to check the fuel psi or a z1 gauge?
Z33 Garage I didn’t have the code to begin with, I don’t have anything to check the fuel pressure but the fuel pump is brand new, replaced it when my fuel level sensor stopped reading good. Everyone I ask tells me it’s cam position sensors or crank position sensor.
@@narciso19G the crank and cam sensors will 100 percent throw a code and they will they not let the car crank. What fuel pump did you use? You might be having a fuel pressure issue once the car gets out of closed loop
My 350 keeps throwing the P0300 code. I've replaced the packs, plugs and even the crank sensor cause some people said that might work. They also said changing the camshaft sensor might work so what would you suggest?
I had p0300/p0302 codes and it turned out to be more than just one coil pack burned out because of a loose ground wire.
TC350Z I replaced all the coil packs
Hey man, sorry to hear about your issues.
Check and clean your MAF sensor, check for bad hoses causing a vacuum leak, perhaps add a fuel injector cleaner and or check your injectors. You also could be running very rich, or lean. Also could be a bad fuel pump/ old filter causing poor fuel pressure, as well as possible that you got bad fuel. If you have someone local with a cypher cable you can do some datalogging to find when the car begins to fail. Hope this helps!
Z33 Garage I appreciate the suggestions! I'll try them and see if I can figure it out
i bought my 350z not too long but seems like this is a commun issue with them...does this sensor have something to do with the shaking and rpm losing power? btw thanks for sharing this video.
Caballero Dl it basically tells the engine ecu at what position the cams are at. it's crucial to the engine running. congrats on the Z :)
Caballero Dl I believe this IS the reason why. My CRANKshaft sensor was loose (under the car) and that fixed the problem for about a week. I simply tightened it back up.
The problem is returning and the code now says the camshaft sensors are the problem so I am going to try cleaning these out and reinstalling them before buying new ones.
Z33 Garage thank you!
xgtownboy cleaning them did not fix it. I bought new sensors (both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor). I installed them and now the issues are gone.
When driving with TCS engaged and I would speed off, the slip light would come up. I had to turn TCS off to drive fast without loss of power. This doesn't happen anymore.
So it fixed a few issues I was having.
I don't know which sensor was the one causing the trouble but I recommend changing all three out of you can afford it.
Usually both sensors wear equally so if one fails, the other is not that far behind. They each throw separate codes (bank 1 or bank 2) so you could swap the one that is coding but at that point you would have to do 2 separate installs and might be more of a PITA.
Can I have the part number on both those sensors that you replaced? Thanks!
sorry I don't have the boxes. just search for them on advance autoparts website. it's really easy to find.
do you remember the webpage for both sensors?tnxs
+Juan Santamaria I got it from advance autoparts.com
Can these being bad cause the car to on click when turning over?
If it's clicking its prob a low battery or starter isn't good.
These will throw a code when they go bad.
@@Z33Garage I replaced the starter and had the battery checked and I still get the same click/clunk sound when I turn it over
@@TZMoto ok, is your car manual?
The other thing that can cause that is your starter solonoid is stuck closed. That is behind the battery.
If you have a manual, and you can push start the car, it would indicate to me that the solonoid is bad. Also this happened to me.
@@Z33Garage isnt the solenoid on the starter itself? Or is there like a relay behind the battery? It is a 6 speed but push starting it where it sits now is impossible.
My Z will on warm startups sometimes have the rpm go very low or stall. This is intermittent and cold starts are perfect. I have no codes on or stored. Could this position sensor be my issue ?
it could be, you can also check your spark plugs, coil packs and make sure you are getting correct fuel psi
hi will this keep u from revving past 6k? thanks
how the heck did you get the connector off on driver side sensor. im in thr process of it
The connector has a green tab in the middle ( BE CAREFUL TO NOT SNAP IT!)
that you have to press and at the same time pull the connector back. I had to press the tab with a small screwdriver while I gently pulled the connector.
DONT SNAP THE tab! if you do the connector wont stay and will come off while the engine is on.
Z33 Garage well i think it might have snapped. i pushed the green tab carefully until i heard the click and now the green tab wont come back up. do i have to get a new harness or can i just get a new connector?
If I am not mistaken, the tab snaps back out when you connect it back to the sensor.
If you broke the tab you need to get a new tab and solder it to the old wires.
Z33 Garage. it didnt snap off. it wont come back up. and wont stay on the sensor.
Z33 Garage alright, i was told that when i put it back on that i need to have a good grip. what is the cable /connector that is on the same harness, near the middle rear of the engine. i think its dark green
which one is the bank 1? mine says position sensor p0340 bank 1
aaron chan bank 2 is driver, bank 1 is passanger
can someone help me, i have a 2007 350z hr and have the code p0345 which is the camshaft position sensor bank 2 sensor a its the driver side , the thing is that i already changed the sensor and nothing happens, keep on throwing the same code, what can i do , what else i can do beside changing the sensor.... thanks in advance. ....
Did you remember to clear the code after the install?
Codes wont clear simply by changing the part.
Z33 Garage
i did it with the scanner, and also disconnected the battery and keep throwing the same code, i am going to get another sensor, it could be a defective sensor that's what i been told. ..
AlexyLaGorda Chavez it could be it. let me know how it goes with the new sensor.
Alexy, how's your car now? I'm gonna have my sensor replaced soon.
Mr Mann
I am goin to change it tomorrow but what year its your car because if its a 2007 or up its different from the older models
1.what useful when i use cam sensor ? 2. sensor cam come with steel or plastic Chain .
sweeeet thx dude. i just got a project z with 214xxx miles (i knooooooooooooow whyyyyy?????!?!?!?!) but either a honda fit(lol) or my dream z lol so the other day i literally parked my car went up to ross came back into the lot and wasnt starting like it wanted to but it just wasnt starting. so eventually 5 mins later after trying it started got home got the service engine soon light turns out these sensors are one of the issues. plus i gotta get it checjed out soon one day it started running kinda with that less power now so it feels like i gotta give it that extra push to go faster? any ideas???
Yeah this same issue has happened to me. if your car is manual you can put the car in gear and push it to move the cams a bit and hopefully turn the car on again.
+Z33 Garage it happened again last night on hollywood blvd! lol it took me like 10 mins this time to try and get it running. and sadly its auto. never got the chance to learn stick so im getting a lil stick soon to learn then do a tranny swap hopefully! aside of that has your z ever felt sluggish?
+Jose Ramos lol yeah on autos you can clear the codes and hope it cranks or swap em. sluggish. ..eh only when my spark plugs were covered in oil. I fix this in another of my videos. anything without FI is sluggish to me ;)
Hi I received a P0011 code. Will replacing my camshaft position sensor fix this problem?
what is that code? I don't know them all by memory.
+Z33 Garage P0011 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1
+Carlos Nunez no it wont. I think that is your throttle body
+Z33 Garage error I mean the vvt solenoids
+Z33 Garage ohhh yea because I did some research and it says either a cam sensor or the Solenoid so I wasn't sure. I didn't want to take it to a nissan dealer. Thank you very much and I love your videos!
Hi i have a 2003 350z and I have the same problem the car start well but when it running a few miles it show down and it have serious problem to start, and when it running 40 m/h and I push the gas don't accelerate just go up slowly, I the computer said the cam and crank sensor I replaced and still the same problem i change the fuel pump and nothing happens I check MAF sensor it'll me crazy please any ideas I need help thanks
Francisco Sardinas did you do the relearns for all the sensors you replaced?
Francisco Sardinas the 40mph is the limp mode. Once you do an ecu reset it should clear.
No I do not reset the ecu when I take off the battery the light disappear but the light came again I'll reset the ecu and let you know thanks
Francisco Sardinas you need to perform the throttle relearn procedures. if you google it you will find the technosquare site that has the diy. hope it helps!!
Ok thanks I'll do
Cam Position Sensor and Cam Angle Sensor are synonymous ?
Yep the measure the angle, or position of the cam sprocket.
Thank you very much. Massive help!
theres actually 4 sensors back there 1 of each of those sensors on each head one for intake and one for exhaust
malakai takai that is only for the HR engines since they have variable valve timing on both exhaust and intake
malakai takai de engine has only 1 on each bank
geez didnt realize my engine was an hr i thought it was de cheers for that
malakai takai lol yeah what year is it?
05 i dont think its a hr cause its only got 1 intake i think maybe its a revup engine
what were your engine codes and did they get cleared after ?
I don't remember the actual codes, but my obd2 scanner said cam position sensor bank 1. So knowing these sensors tend to go bad I swapped them.
How can I get lifetime warranty on these parts!
obojarah95 advanced auto has lifetime warranty on the sensors ,window motors and starters. I am in Florida and you can just buy em in a store.
Thank you for reply I appreciated
Nissan pulsar n 16 po335
Is this the same for an '03 350z? Do you really have to disconnect the battery?
Jose Perez Jr. this is the same for any Z or G that has the DE motor, so yes. And it's always good practice to disconnect the battery, as opposed to shorting something.
Nice job , what did you mean Re teach the maf sensor ?
thanks. I mean performs the idle air relearn. it was late and I was tired haha
what exhaust do you have master
Guillermo Castillo I have a ebay? exhaust called SRS. I got it used and it had new welded tips and a Megan Y pipe. nothing spectacular but it sounds pretty good for eBay and it fit well. also I got it for 150 bucks! :)
did you notice any difference on how hard the car pulled after doing doing this
Set Ryder well this isn't a power mod or anything, if your sensors are failing your car will ride like shit or stall so swapping them merely fixes the issue and makes the car run normal
Z33 Garage yeah my sensor on bank 2 was bad the expensive one of course and it was bad when I bought the car so never really felt how the car really engaged until I replaced it it was a night and day difference
how do you know if its malfunctioning
+specialformula14 you'll get a service engine soon light and a code. for the passenger side (the straight one) the code is 0340. not sure about the driver side
+Isaiah Pisani
Yep, Both sensors give codes as soon as they fail.
Symptoms of issues are missfires, and or no crank no start.
A way to test this, (if you have a 6 speed) is to put the car into gear and "rock" or move the car a bit by pushing. This changes the Cam position and thus "can" help temp start the car. However as these sensors wear ( and get oil inside) they are more prone to failure...usually at the worse times.
I have a 04 Nissan 350Z auto
The car would drive for 30mins then the engine check goes on, the slip and traction also go on, if the car is parked for over an hour, the slip and traction would go off and car would start fine and drive fine, after around 30mins they go back on again, car would take long to start, also when the SLIP and traction is on, I can feel a bit of power loss, thought the car would still accelerate to 7000rpm
John Muthlave sounds like you have more issues than the cam sensors... run a obd2 scan first for all codes.
Z33 Garage thanks alot for the quick reply. tomorrow Im having it scanned then will drop the codes
John Muthlave ok good luck!
Hi there, just came back from the garage, I got P0340 - CMP SEN/CIRC-B1
which is bank 1 my car being a right hand drive
I have the same issue at the moment with my 03 350z, I also ran the scanner and got bank 1. which one is bank 1 and did the camshaft position sensor fix your issue?
Did it make the Z run better ?
Yeah it did, the Z stopped missfiring
@1:07 ideal timing
My car keeps giving me the code p1084
my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/611679-p1084-fixed.html
I haven't run into this code but I believe it's explained in the thread. Good luck man!
once you put fresh cam sensors in, how long do they usually last you? until the next. z surgery. haha
these lasted me about 1.5 years before they began to fail again.
Remember kiddies, these are in reverse if you have a RHD Z
holy shit i checked online on auto zone to see how much the sensor is and its 70$ to 100$ wtf ?? should i get them online and hope they'll last ?
Smoki501 I bit the bullet and bought them at my local auto parts store and used coupons. the store offers lifetime warranty If the sensor fails, and they will fail again so I bought them once and I'm good to go.
Z33 Garage Dam man jst wen I was about to get uprev tuned this happens! Hopefully I still have som leftover refund $$ to do it lmfao
Smoki501 you will need to man, the car is going to tank if they continue to fail. good luck with the car man!
After swapping both my car started whining at idle and rpm started twitching
pfunk heli do an ecu relearn procedure see if it goes away.
@1:07 ideal timing