40Yr Old Yacht Restoration Continued....
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
- Allow me to share some of the new things I've learned from the team of expert boat builders that I've had the privilege to work alongside for the best part of the last year and they've helped me understand why most of the deck hardware that I had re-installed over the last 5 years had begun to leak again and then showed me how to fix it.... for good?
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Quite the learning curve you're on. Hope the light Isn't a train. Thanks for another video.
Hi Dom. Instaed of using Sikaflex which goes off although stays rubbery I would recommend butyl tape. Butyl is incredibly forgiving. It never sets and seals really well but doesn't stick so you can take it apart. It much less messy than sikaflex as it's like blu tack. My Hallberg Rassy which is over 25 years old has many fittings fitted with butyl in the factory and they don't leak. The countersink is really important and some butyl down the thread is a help but as George says below you don't want it where the nut goes underneath.
Completely agree, I refitted some hardware today, with butyl tape underneath. Butyl tape is easy to use. Last year I used it on some fittings attached to a varnished board, although the Butyl tape had stuck very well to both surfaces I was able to roll it over the remaining pieces so that it stuck to itself and left the surface ready to sand.
Well done on all that Dom. That deck looks amazing.
On recommendation of my neighbor who had recently replaced his deck, I used butyl tape to seal 2 stantion bases, did similar countersink, then a bit of silicone on top of butyl tape and base of stantion, Also worked well.
Fantastic, thanks for sharing.
Nice tutorial Dom! I tend to use the Sikaflex primer now before the 291 - not sure if it is that important. Also put the screws in first, apply the 291 around the screw/cleat interface in generous amounts, and go down the shaft but not all the way. This way you still end up with the 291 in the same place, but avoid 291 on the end of the screw which otherwise gets really messy. You can also apply 291 to the cleat to increase the bedding surface which might help with shear loads? (not restrict it to just the area around the screws). The 291 should find its way up under the head when screwed in. Applying it to the screws/cleat interface is a bit more fiddlly obviously. Great advice not to tighten to 100% initially, but just a mention that then doing the final bit, you need to have someone on top with the screwdriver to make sure the screw doesn't move a mm - tighten the nut only; else potential to break the seal.
Great vid. Deck looks great, and a bit of self deprecation goes a long way😁. Winch is a beaut. Well done. Cant wait to see you all back on the water.
Drill-Fill-Drill (the Mads way) ensures absolutely no balsa core moisture in the future for deck fittings, but your method is the next best thing 👍
Followed Mads way it is bomb proof but this way is serviceable (for a while) but as other comments with butyl tape (here at Bunnings in Aussie get Gorillla tape its the same thing but cheaper )
Pretty sure that ‘cleaning’ the deck holes with acetone, you were just damaging the deck caulk and picking up the dissolved caulk on the cloth. Just a heads up for next time! Nice work :)
In any long project it's the landmark successes that keep you going. On the bedding down, I would do no more, no less.
What a relief to see that winch moving again! As a matter of fact I’m just today going to exchange the old Lewmar to a spiffy self tailing Andersen for my mainsail. 🛠️
in regards to the cleats…i think the way you’re repairing it is probably adequate, but if you really want to insure that it has a good seal over time is to use a broader plate under the cleat to distribute the torque that will be placed on it…that teak will move either by shrinkage or the narrow edge digging in…i guess we’ll see…she’s really looking good buddy…love this yacht!
That is a seriues job man. Nicely done.
The one question is up keep on teak, it looks minted. But in heat it gets very hot on the feet. If around the UK no probs. HAHAHA
Another fantastic video. I noticed in the background as you paned around just before the winch assembly on your boat. There was a beautiful old fishing boat maybe. If you have time would it be possible to have a few shots of this boat and maybe some history. Love your videos . Thanks again Rob from Tasmania
Nice goin! When I’m disassembling mechanical things I like to put each piece on the table in the order I removed it w fasteners in their respective holes of possible. Less to remember is always better 😎.
when restoring a 80 year old steel ship I found that all area's under the cleats were in a real good shape. reason was a thin (1.5mm) layer of flexible rubber. since then I use this method in combination with the sika 291i it, so far has helt great!
Butyl tape would be the best choice, for deck hardware that you have good clamping force on…winches, cleats, etc…and use the counter sink as you did.
For the cleat, I would have put a bed of SK291i across the whole base footprint rather than circles around the bolt holes. Good job though.
Are you going to rename the boat Cadohuha ??? 🤣🤣🤣
Did you get that expensive winch for free?
People are thinking epoxy because you said never leak again.
The natural oils on your fingers is the worst contaminate.
Love your 3:12 shows but not sure the orange edge protection would save you🤣🤣.
Just wondering why no lube??? Or did I miss something. Watched the assembly of the winch twice.
8:32 Dodgy deals in the car park. I've been there.🤑