I don't know why, but 37 mph with a stock brushed motor seems more impressive to me. I guess if/when I get my old cars up and running, LiPo will be an option I will have to consider. Thanks for sharing this, Gavin!
I like brushed motors and when you run them on 2S its just lovely to drive. I only have a few brushless systems and the power you can achieve is bonkers. That's why I collect vintage kyosho motors, it just feels a bit more analog if that makes any sense at all.
@@PabloGonzalez-hv3td You have to consider that the cars are 4 wheel drive Tamiya TC-01 and the Kyosho which has a brushed motor would run a little slower???. A 4 wheel drive system requires a little more go power because of friction and the front wheel components. I asume that was the logic of the brushless motor installed in the TC-01. I am also going in that direction, but with a milder 10T 3,600Kv. The ESC also plays an important role in the system. Benifits: I intend to get longer run times, cooler running. AT least that is the plan.
On the Tamiya Japan live stream where the two Tamiya guys were dissecting the TC-01 build process, they specifically mentioned to replace the front dog bones with universal axles or double-cardan shafts because the acute turning angle will cause the dog bones to come out and bind. It did so for mine before I put in the XV-01 universals, but you can also dial the steering radius in so it doesn’t turn to the point it causes it to dislodge.
@@RCKickschannel That's great! I'm curious to know if you have other upgrade recommendations. How's the TC-01 running today? Stable? Did you surpass 60MPH? I really like this car. Thanks for your engagement.
How did you get foam tires to hook up like that on asphalt road I can't ever get a foam tire to do anything on asphalt All they are good for is carpet racing which I do every weekend that first car looked like it had foam tires on
Shame you didn't get footage. Would have boosted views I recon. Should always film everything, practice runs etc. You never know if you are gonna miss gold.
What was the front diff like? it may have also lost drive to the front spinning up the front diff. With speed runs it is not a matter of if but when you crash. with the arma infractions I saw they were blowing out tire around 110-120 mph.
Hi, can it run with a Tamiya Super Stock RZ 23T 540 Brushed Motor, is it too quick for this car, does it match with the gearing on this, I want it to be really quick around straight line track?
Back in '89 i learned that doing speed runs on a street with curbs can likely end in disaster. It was my first hobby grade RC, the Avante and i totally wrote it off and had to sell it back then because of lack of funds.. I stubbornly tried that again some fifteen years later with an E-Maxx with similar though less extreme results. Three times a charm, i test drove my Infraction on the street a month or so ago and that also miraculously discovered what curbs are. Luckily it was fine and i now am trying to be a good boy and take it to car parks instead. When they're empty.. Git gut? Perhaps. I'll try and play it safe now, a good thirty years after what should have been the only hard lesson. Cheers and GOOD LUCK getting that Formula E restored ;)
Can someone explain why some differentials skid out very easily one way, and not much the other way? I've seen this happen on every single mini z rwd i've driven/owned too, even if I locked the diff (planetary and ball diffs, probably 4 different expensive diffs I tried.). I've seen it happen on the original arrma limitless too.
I got the TC-01 and noticed something while testing the throttle and the steering. With steering at its maximum (left or right) and some throttle, I saw the drive shaft was hitting against the drive cup. I had to change the limits to my steering to prevent that. Could that have been the issue that caused your drive cup to fail?
No I was doing a power run so the car would never be at full lock. I always set my steering end points before I drive my cars as like you say, it’s common to be able to rattle the shafts off the cups at full lock
@@RCKickschannel Gotcha. Unfortunate that the one drive cup failure caused the crash. I hope it was just a rare manufacturing defect. If not, hopefully there's an upgraded version of this part that can be bought...
Hi there! First 2s pancar brushed vs 3s touring car brushless, no sense. Second, still like the Video! The Phantom looks as he runs very Smooth. Got to get one as well! And the Crash of the tc01 makes me Feeling sad for u. i am not into speedruns at all, no fun for me. But the Wall behind u.... , so jealus!
Yes the video was just a bit of fun to show the two new cars out driving. These are totally different cars running completely different electronics. All done for a bit of fun and entertainment. Well the crash wasn’t part of the plan, trashing a lovely new body after three days work sucked but we move one. New parts on order so the car will be back up running again soon.
And that's why we suckers keep coming back to the hobby shop to buy more parts! =) In all honesty, that sounds like an unfortunate event. Hope that is the worst thing to happen to you in all of 2020, which if it is, isn't all too bad as everything is replaceable. The Formula E body will become available separately soon, but I doubt you'll want to go through that process again so good on you for getting the Toyota body instead. And yes, definitely record practice runs. Great for out take clips at the end of your videos!
It’s a shame the body was damaged but things happen and like you say I can get another body in a month when it comes out. I will build another but I will pick a different colour next time. I will also pick up a driver body of some sort that easy to paint up.
I was surprised on the failure. Yeah RC would be a place to look for new parts. Thanks for sharing. I have had new 60 size planes go in first flight ouch. Escuse me for asking what type of esc are you using? and where did you install it? I know space is limited in that rc car. If you have gone over this information before, I'm sorry I missed it.
That was exciting and very fun I liked ur narrating on point genius I like it how you talk to yourself and then you said back to the studio and was like a reporter reporting on the fight man that was cool dude Gavin you are creative that's awesome
Oh Man, that hurts. Seeing a super detailed Tamiya body dinged up. I started the Gazoo Racing Toyota LMP1 car like 2 years ago. Finished the chassis in a couple of hours. Body is still un painted! Lol.
awesome, this is what i want to see is speed runs and general bashing runs too. please do more.. sucks that beauty got wrecked, but crap happens. keep it up
I'm wondering if that was a hardening issue with your drive cup, it's pretty rare for one of those to break. I've broken two in ten years of silly brushless power in various Tamiya vehicles in the skate park, doing speed runs, general bashing etc. I am assuming its one of the standard drive cup axles they have been making for years? They hold up in Monster Trucks like the WR-01 and WT-01 where they are turning a ~125mm diameter tyre, so the torque moment is much higher than for a touring car tyre & wheel combo. I usually snap mine off at the drive pin when arguing with various concrete.
EDIT: Reading up on the fact it is a front drive cup and they have a known binding issue > a most likely cause of failure, that mechanical advantage will get you every time!
Yes from cornering under load it can add extra stress but the car has only been driven for 10-20 mins max from new and I was just doing speed runs that day and it was the second pull only. when it went the car was facing forward so it feels like just a bad part. Bearings are all perfect as is the dog bone. It shows no marks at all.
Geee you have good smooth public road there i cant even speed run my f103 gt here in the philippines due to so many imperfection on oir streets ,nice video
Well that was brutal, too bad you didn’t catch it on film . I guess now you can do some upgrades plus you have a running body now. Because I know your going to get a replacement body😂. Good video Gav .
I admire you cool my friend, i'd be having a meltdown if that happened to my cars haha! More speed runs please but definitely in a big car park next time.
Nice video. I've never liked dog bones they can easily move in the slot and jam in the cup, I guess the urethane bush came out in the crash?. Looks like you need a set of universals from the xv-01 with that much power. I really hate the lack of cable management on Tamiya cars, it's as if they spend all the time designing a great looking car (which the tc-01 is) and completely forget that batteries have wires.
i'm not at all familiar with the hobby but youtube take one weird places - in both cases it seems like the what im assuming is the thing you mount to the cars for telemetry data caused body damage & also the crash.... like it needs to be mounted under the shell
No that wasn’t it. I explained what part failed in the video. It was the front left out drive disintegrated and the front dog bone fell out loosing drive to the front wheel. The car roared to the left as the other three wheels still had drive. 👍🏻
I know in the instructions Tamiya says the TC-01 is made for brushless. But isn't three cell lipos way too much for any Tamiya? An overpowered brushless motor and three cell seems like you are asking to break the thing. Is the TC-01 made for three cell?
Love the channel, keep up the great work. Sorry for the crash but hopefully it can be repaired. Quick question; Is this the fastest production car Tamiya have ever produced? Have you tested/recorded anything faster?
Starting out many years ago with 1/12th scale RWD race cars and knowing how to set up and control them is a difficult skill to learn. A pity as most these days only run 4WD and have no idea what to do when only 2 wheels are driven. And no,you don't need gyros....
Lots of bits wrong at that time. Body mounts all snapped off, body came apart at the joints so it was all hanging on. I am amazed it was still running at all.
You may be able to improve the body dent with a hairdryer and something hard pushing from behind to help reform the original shape, you would have to take great care though. Unlikely you would get the scratches out though.
From this incident, clearly speak out a racing grade car, speed is not the key success factor; stability and in control at high-speed/pick-up are much more important ;-) Surely Kyosho is the winner in this comparison.
Tamiya were great producing nice replica bodies which is the main problem as with 1/10 scale they were utterly useless as there's no downforce grip at all, hence the kyosho with Lola body style has the overall advantage, even if you slap a low turn brushless motor. Hence the motors should switched between cars and see how kyosho destroyed the Tamiya junk...🤣🤣🤣
RC Kicks Kicking !! Like I had a feeling it would!How are you my friend, its been a while a Wow ! Maybe clean the rears Hold the car gas heat rears abit! I Think alot of difference on the rears only,two nice models The new crazy speeder Winner all the way around and I have a Favorite Tam Now!I bet u didn't need that paper, All you do now! Living the Dream! Lucky Butt Hole I new this Channel a while back would be fantastic and What else on Earth is there for you to do but be the RC Kick Tamiya Man!Congratulations U Deserve to Happy for you!Will I be back around Try and Keep me away!!! That is Unless you like Depriving a RC Lon Part of his Fix!
Ouch! That stinks. The TC looked good. I think that is too fast for that car. My Touring cars do 35 and that's clickin along pretty good. You'll fix it. The Phantom looks good.
@@RCKickschannel I've crashed a few in my day , and man I know it sucks . Just finished my monster beetle , first run broke both mirrors off and scratched the body .
Hi there, if I was you I’d be putting bearings over the outside of the drive cups on all the brushes systems, that tin pot metal is too soft. It stops them disintegrating.
I can't find replacements online. I will have a look at some other cars today and see if I can match up the part. Fingers crossed its a stock part from another model and not new for the TC-01
I don't see the relevance of racing 2S vs 3S battery power. It's not an even comparison; like comparing a Corvette to a Chevette. There will be a HUGE RPM increase going from 2S to 3S, it'll be 33% faster on 3S, all else being equal. Put a 3S in the Kyosho and re-run your comparison. I'll bet the Fantom would make a good challenge even with the brushed motor in there...and it'll probably hold up better than the Tamiya plastic-craptastic would.
You have been a subscriber for a year Michael just so you would end up seeing me crash a car? Now that's dedication to my bad driving skills LOL! I respect that!
lol running two different power system to compare??? if switch the system kyosho Fantom tops out at 80mph and tc-01 will be 32mph. waste of time even compare.
Not worth replacing definitely see if they make some sort of universals for the front. All that work painting and detailing the body 🤦♂️ And that’s why my race bodies get the same care and attention to detail as a US Taxi cab’s paint job 🍺😂👍🏽
3s is too much power, and power is nothing without control. Looking at the car, the camber and rear toe doesn't look adjustable and the kit tamiya tyres are designed for slower speeds. All that adds up to a difficult to control car. Very telling on rear wheel drive as the car just spins. There's no grip there at all. Public road speed runs are dodgy to, if you hit someone you can be sued. BRCA membership would cover you against this.
Thank you for the reply. After going over severial reviews I decided to go with the same set up. LOOK OUT he's on the road!!! For set-up Ideas on the TC-01 chassis set up I saw this youtube segment th-cam.com/video/4QHMRFmnTJK/w-d-xo.html. The address should work if not the title of the segment is called "Tamiya TC-01 Tuning and hop-up tricks".The interesting thing is 0 chamber on the front wheels, 3 degrees toe IN on the rear tires. Also noted aluminum shocks. The springs on the schocks was also interesting in his logic. I have the 3PV-2.4G futabe 3 channel in which I have tried to access the program which does: the faster the rc car goes the steering is less sensitive. Thus one is able to control high speed just a bit better. Try as I might I can't seem to get it all together. Help here would be nice from someone.
As an old skool racer, what were you trying to accomplish bashing a pancar made for at least a prepped surface, “against” a new car clearly meant for the parking lot/basher?? It takes a clean area/track to run a pancar w/foams, even the compounds meant for asphalt. Rubber tires will do well almost anywhere. I used to parking lot race a trinity street spec, nitro touring, electric touring. This trend in basher cars going for speed runs kills me! No talent in big rpm brushless w/3-8s lips! That old Fantom would embarrass a modern touring running even a spec brushless n 2s lipo. Used to hate the buba that wanted to make his nitro monster truck faster than his buddy’s stadium truck or some other race orientated car. It’s made to do what it does, you don’t off-road an Indy car, and drag racing a 10+ pound beast should be against the same thing. On road car 35-40mph on an indoor carpet track is blazing “fast”, frankincar with 10s lipo and 50,000kv brushless wouldn’t make a lap in respectable time or crashing. Just my $0.02 If like to see that Fantom with vintage motor n 2s lipo on a carpet track!
I would love to show you the footage for any crash, be that a fault for crap driving or a part failure. I would have something to show for all the hours of work I put into that body and the £100 repair bill.
My 1991 Tamiya Top Force did 71Mph totally stock other than the motor and esc....lol (vid on my channel to prove). I was hoping the TC-01 would be a good speed run chassis. I guess not.
71, nice. It's too early to give a full conclusion on the TC-01 yet, it could have just been a single bad part. I will send it again for 60-70MPH as soon as I can get the replacement parts.
Not for me unfortunately. I spent days on that car and I like keeping them in good condition. This video won't cover 30% of the repair cost. I'm not a basher at heart thats for sure lol :)
Yep, you don’t expect an alloy outdrive to let go at that speed. I haven’t seen others having the same issue so it could have just been a defective part that I was unlucky to get.
@@RCKickschannel right I could see under initial load but. Not at speeds under 100. I know they won’t but they should at least send you a new free body and parts to fix up on the house.
@@RCKickschannel I wonder if the dog bones were flexing and getting near the end outdrive like what happens to the bbx where it’s at its thinnest and it couldn’t take it. Either way it’s a design flaw.
Agree 100%. I love Tamiya but the plastics are poor (still just like 40 years ago they haven’t improved their plastics at all - must be costing issue to keep prices lower). The overall designs are not as refined as competitors - they get squirily at moderate to high speed. The gear boxes are poor - just listen to them they sound terrible like a combo of plastic and pot metal gears slamming around. Even something like the Traxxas 4-Tec is vastly superior as far as performance.
@@bcastromusic Haven't improved their plastics? I'm pretty sure they have over the past 40 years. That doesn't seem like a factual statement to me. Also i just build my first kit and the gearbox actually feels buttery smooth tbh.
Chris Watson I love Tamiya but stand by it. I have or have had everything from TT01, TT01E, TT-02, TA-05, TRF419, TGS, TGM, all the way back to that F1 wizard thing back in ~1989 (forget the chassis name) and my very first ever car the grasshopper in 1986 and then wild one and others. The plastics and gearboxes are inferior to just about everything else I have. I’ve probably broke hundreds of Tamiya shocker towers, castor blocks & hubs, gear boxes and other parts over the years and they’re simply not as refined as others stuff. Tamiya are the only cars that you take a screw out twice and the plastic Is totally stripped. This is the case 40 years ago and still today. Most companies use better plastics or fiberglass or graphite reinforced plastics.
You gotta be kidding, that fantom costs 450 GBP-37mph. A wltoys 144001 which costs less than 100 will do that on 2s lipo. What a waste of money!! That money will get you over 100mph if you mod a 144001 or any other half way decent car!!
Never understand and I will not understand why you drive cars on a public road, these cars are made to run on a track independently are on or off road car. What type of fun you have on a public road, all rc cars are made to run on a track to see what they are capable of and have fun even if you are not a race guy. Waste of times only no interesting boring and rubbish comments if you drive a car on the straight on a public road. If manufacturers paying to talk about their cars but if they want to promote the brand and cars better they move to another channel, the same happen for Tamiya channel. Never purchase a car if these manufacturers intend to sponsor your channel or any other channel based on this criteria .
Why bother watching if you feel like that? Let's be honest most people buy these cars to sit on a shelf and admire or have a blast around a carpark. If Tamiya/Kyosho relied on people buying their cars for race purposes only they would have gone bankrupt years ago. Racing has its place in the hobby but its the casual drivers that are the manufacturers main income.
If you live in the UK you will that clubs/venues for minority hobbies are vertually nil !!!!!! If there is a venue/club it is probably at the other end of the country. You have to use what you can and what good would a track probably be for a flat out speed run?? Just my opinion.
Aside from your comment making very little sense, its a model car that can be run on a smooth surface and it's his to do what he wants with it. Next time you dont have much to say, try not using as many words to not say it.
Craig Garrett VC you did not understand the point, the point is if it’s an RC car model should be used on a track to see how enjoyable used these RC cars on a track and not on a straight line on a public road. Racing it’s a another story and never say that. Also if you used any RC cars on a track you will help and support any RC track owners that spend time effort and money to let playing rc fans. If I would Tamiya or Kyosho or any other rc brands I ask these channels to used their cars , I presume they give them for free, on a local rc tracks to support the hobby in general.
That roll bar did its job. Not a scratch on the driver’s helmet. 😉
I don't know why, but 37 mph with a stock brushed motor seems more impressive to me. I guess if/when I get my old cars up and running, LiPo will be an option I will have to consider.
Thanks for sharing this, Gavin!
I like brushed motors and when you run them on 2S its just lovely to drive. I only have a few brushless systems and the power you can achieve is bonkers. That's why I collect vintage kyosho motors, it just feels a bit more analog if that makes any sense at all.
Brushed, LiPo capable escs are super cheap these days too. $30 Canadian shipped for my Powerhobby escs than can handle down to 12T and they're tiny.
@@PabloGonzalez-hv3td You have to consider that the cars are 4 wheel drive Tamiya TC-01 and the Kyosho which has a brushed motor would run a little slower???. A 4 wheel drive system requires a little more go power because of friction and the front wheel components. I asume that was the logic of the brushless motor installed in the TC-01. I am also going in that direction, but with a milder 10T 3,600Kv. The ESC also plays an important role in the system. Benifits: I intend to get longer run times, cooler running. AT least that is the plan.
You had one job to do.....Record the damn crash!!!
I Know, I know.
at least he did a nice explanation about it, nice story . but footage is nicer
On the Tamiya Japan live stream where the two Tamiya guys were dissecting the TC-01 build process, they specifically mentioned to replace the front dog bones with universal axles or double-cardan shafts because the acute turning angle will cause the dog bones to come out and bind. It did so for mine before I put in the XV-01 universals, but you can also dial the steering radius in so it doesn’t turn to the point it causes it to dislodge.
I just placed an order for some Tamiya 54515 XV-01 Assembly Universal Shafts. This is a better way to go.
@@RCKickschannel Did the replacement parts work?
@@BennyRivera Yep UDS now on the front.
@@RCKickschannel That's great! I'm curious to know if you have other upgrade recommendations. How's the TC-01 running today? Stable? Did you surpass 60MPH? I really like this car. Thanks for your engagement.
I put in universals pretty much from the start on any new RC.
How did you get foam tires to hook up like that on asphalt road I can't ever get a foam tire to do anything on asphalt All they are good for is carpet racing which I do every weekend that first car looked like it had foam tires on
Shame you didn't get footage. Would have boosted views I recon. Should always film everything, practice runs etc. You never know if you are gonna miss gold.
Yep, gutted. It was impressive and really loud. My Son just turned and looked at me with his mouth wide open. lol
What you use to hold your SkyRC GPS?? Hot glue the Magnet back of the GPS??
Hi, have a look in your spares box to see if you have any older model shafts as a replacement?. Steve.
Yep was thinking about trying out a few others to see if I can find a match 👍🏻
I was considering buying this car. Were you able to find replacement front drive wheels cups that are made of more durable material, say aluminium?
What was the front diff like? it may have also lost drive to the front spinning up the front diff.
With speed runs it is not a matter of if but when you crash. with the arma infractions I saw they were blowing out tire around 110-120 mph.
Ugh! You need to find a big carpark..... curbs make me nervous....
Curbstones are where Radio Cars go te die
Truly enjoyed that. Thank you for sharing it with all of us. Speed runs often end in tragedy. Great video 👍🏻🍻
Hi, can it run with a Tamiya Super Stock RZ 23T 540 Brushed Motor, is it too quick for this car, does it match with the gearing on this, I want it to be really quick around straight line track?
23t is no problem for this chassis. You could run a 13T
Back in '89 i learned that doing speed runs on a street with curbs can likely end in disaster. It was my first hobby grade RC, the Avante and i totally wrote it off and had to sell it back then because of lack of funds.. I stubbornly tried that again some fifteen years later with an E-Maxx with similar though less extreme results. Three times a charm, i test drove my Infraction on the street a month or so ago and that also miraculously discovered what curbs are. Luckily it was fine and i now am trying to be a good boy and take it to car parks instead. When they're empty.. Git gut? Perhaps. I'll try and play it safe now, a good thirty years after what should have been the only hard lesson. Cheers and GOOD LUCK getting that Formula E restored ;)
Maybe I missed it but what motor where you running that it went so fast.
"Looks like the carbon fiber monocoque saved the driver's life" - Martin Brundle
Ouchhh ! Ahh well that’s part of Speed Runs! I gave up on my TA05 project at around 95kms/hr I had stability problems & crashed afew bodies!
Can someone explain why some differentials skid out very easily one way, and not much the other way? I've seen this happen on every single mini z rwd i've driven/owned too, even if I locked the diff (planetary and ball diffs, probably 4 different expensive diffs I tried.). I've seen it happen on the original arrma limitless too.
I got the TC-01 and noticed something while testing the throttle and the steering. With steering at its maximum (left or right) and some throttle, I saw the drive shaft was hitting against the drive cup. I had to change the limits to my steering to prevent that. Could that have been the issue that caused your drive cup to fail?
No I was doing a power run so the car would never be at full lock. I always set my steering end points before I drive my cars as like you say, it’s common to be able to rattle the shafts off the cups at full lock
@@RCKickschannel Gotcha. Unfortunate that the one drive cup failure caused the crash. I hope it was just a rare manufacturing defect. If not, hopefully there's an upgraded version of this part that can be bought...
Just started the video. I gonna guess the photo is clickbait like Kevin Talbot sometimes uses. Lol
Nope. Wrong. Hate to see it.
@@pinfarmer i can't watch him any more as tumble wumble really gets on my nerves.
Enjoyed the video.
Hi there! First 2s pancar brushed vs 3s touring car brushless, no sense. Second, still like the Video! The Phantom looks as he runs very Smooth. Got to get one as well! And the Crash of the tc01 makes me Feeling sad for u. i am not into speedruns at all, no fun for me. But the Wall behind u.... , so jealus!
Yes the video was just a bit of fun to show the two new cars out driving. These are totally different cars running completely different electronics. All done for a bit of fun and entertainment. Well the crash wasn’t part of the plan, trashing a lovely new body after three days work sucked but we move one. New parts on order so the car will be back up running again soon.
And that's why we suckers keep coming back to the hobby shop to buy more parts! =)
In all honesty, that sounds like an unfortunate event. Hope that is the worst thing to happen to you in all of 2020, which if it is, isn't all too bad as everything is replaceable. The Formula E body will become available separately soon, but I doubt you'll want to go through that process again so good on you for getting the Toyota body instead. And yes, definitely record practice runs. Great for out take clips at the end of your videos!
It’s a shame the body was damaged but things happen and like you say I can get another body in a month when it comes out. I will build another but I will pick a different colour next time. I will also pick up a driver body of some sort that easy to paint up.
I was surprised on the failure. Yeah RC would be a place to look for new parts. Thanks for sharing. I have had new 60 size planes go in first flight ouch. Escuse me for asking what type of esc are you using? and where did you install it? I know space is limited in that rc car. If you have gone over this information before, I'm sorry I missed it.
Hi, I think it was a Hobbywing Max10S with the fan removed.
That was exciting and very fun I liked ur narrating on point genius I like it how you talk to yourself and then you said back to the studio and was like a reporter reporting on the fight man that was cool dude Gavin you are creative that's awesome
Glad you enjoyed
Great report back! UJ’s? Any from a touring car fit?
Found these. Tamiya 54515 XV-01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Front/2 Pcs.) (XV01/XV-01T/TC01)
My greatest fear lol. Just cutting out my body and when it’s done, I’ll be terrified to crack it up lol.
Cutting out is the hard part on the FE body, painting box art isn't too bad. Hope it goes OK for you?
Oh Man, that hurts. Seeing a super detailed Tamiya body dinged up. I started the Gazoo Racing Toyota LMP1 car like 2 years ago. Finished the chassis in a couple of hours. Body is still un painted! Lol.
Wich Motor/ESC combo did you run on the "kyosho fantom"? I want to bu one.
Vintage Mega Formula Motor & HobbyWing Quickrun 1060 ESC
So does Tamiya warranty the vehicle?
TC = Terrible Car
awesome, this is what i want to see is speed runs and general bashing runs too. please do more.. sucks that beauty got wrecked, but crap happens. keep it up
I'm wondering if that was a hardening issue with your drive cup, it's pretty rare for one of those to break. I've broken two in ten years of silly brushless power in various Tamiya vehicles in the skate park, doing speed runs, general bashing etc.
I am assuming its one of the standard drive cup axles they have been making for years? They hold up in Monster Trucks like the WR-01 and WT-01 where they are turning a ~125mm diameter tyre, so the torque moment is much higher than for a touring car tyre & wheel combo. I usually snap mine off at the drive pin when arguing with various concrete.
EDIT: Reading up on the fact it is a front drive cup and they have a known binding issue > a most likely cause of failure, that mechanical advantage will get you every time!
Yes from cornering under load it can add extra stress but the car has only been driven for 10-20 mins max from new and I was just doing speed runs that day and it was the second pull only. when it went the car was facing forward so it feels like just a bad part. Bearings are all perfect as is the dog bone. It shows no marks at all.
This is why 380 motors were invented 😄
Awesome video 💯
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your kind words.
Geee you have good smooth public road there i cant even speed run my f103 gt here in the philippines due to so many imperfection on oir streets ,nice video
Thanks 👍
Well that was brutal, too bad you didn’t catch it on film . I guess now you can do some upgrades plus you have a running body now. Because I know your going to get a replacement body😂. Good video Gav .
All runs will be filmed from now on lol. It was an epic crash and such a shame I didn't get it. What a loud bang!
What's that music playing at 2m?
I get all my music from: www.epidemicsound.com/
@@RCKickschannel Thank you. What track specifically is this though?
I admire you cool my friend, i'd be having a meltdown if that happened to my cars haha! More speed runs please but definitely in a big car park next time.
Nice video. I've never liked dog bones they can easily move in the slot and jam in the cup, I guess the urethane bush came out in the crash?. Looks like you need a set of universals from the xv-01 with that much power. I really hate the lack of cable management on Tamiya cars, it's as if they spend all the time designing a great looking car (which the tc-01 is) and completely forget that batteries have wires.
Yep 100% agree, the Tamiya 54515 XV-01 Assembly Universal Shafts are now on order.
i'm not at all familiar with the hobby but youtube take one weird places - in both cases it seems like the what im assuming is the thing you mount to the cars for telemetry data caused body damage & also the crash.... like it needs to be mounted under the shell
No that wasn’t it. I explained what part failed in the video. It was the front left out drive disintegrated and the front dog bone fell out loosing drive to the front wheel. The car roared to the left as the other three wheels still had drive. 👍🏻
Very entertaining, well done on the Video 👍🏻
Hopefully, there is a Hop-Up for it, or a lower “KV” motor on 2s lipo, so that won’t happen again. 😎
Unlucky, crash rebuild run repeat 😂
The good news is, the driver came away unscathed! All thanks to the roll bar and halo.😁
I know in the instructions Tamiya says the TC-01 is made for brushless. But isn't three cell lipos way too much for any Tamiya? An overpowered brushless motor and three cell seems like you are asking to break the thing. Is the TC-01 made for three cell?
Yes 3S fits perfectly into the TC-01. Should you run it, well 2S would work just as well.
Sounded pretty spectacular Stephanie worth contacting him about the parts not that good if that happens but pretty quick
Love the channel, keep up the great work. Sorry for the crash but hopefully it can be repaired. Quick question; Is this the fastest production car Tamiya have ever produced? Have you tested/recorded anything faster?
Someone pushed a Tamiya TT02 chassis to almost 110MPH
RCKicks wow🔥
2 great cars, to bad for the crash. Stay safe.
Stop saying "stay safe"!
@@ptaylor5014 Not your way this offend you but why is it badd?
@@ptaylor5014 Paul it’s been over a year, hope you’re still safe. Stay safe!
Starting out many years ago with 1/12th scale RWD race cars and knowing how to set up and control them is a difficult skill to learn. A pity as most these days only run 4WD and have no idea what to do when only 2 wheels are driven. And no,you don't need gyros....
Battery lead hanging, another fail...........lol
Lots of bits wrong at that time. Body mounts all snapped off, body came apart at the joints so it was all hanging on. I am amazed it was still running at all.
At the least the driver is protected under the roll cage 😅
He's fine but a little shaken ;)
You may be able to improve the body dent with a hairdryer and something hard pushing from behind to help reform the original shape, you would have to take great care though. Unlikely you would get the scratches out though.
From this incident, clearly speak out a racing grade car, speed is not the key success factor; stability and in control at high-speed/pick-up are much more important ;-)
Surely Kyosho is the winner in this comparison.
Tamiya were great producing nice replica bodies which is the main problem as with 1/10 scale they were utterly useless as there's no downforce grip at all, hence the kyosho with Lola body style has the overall advantage, even if you slap a low turn brushless motor.
Hence the motors should switched between cars and see how kyosho destroyed the Tamiya junk...🤣🤣🤣
RC Kicks Kicking !! Like I had a feeling it would!How are you my friend, its been a while a Wow !
Maybe clean the rears Hold the car gas heat rears abit! I Think alot of difference on the rears only,two nice models The new crazy speeder Winner all the way around and I have a Favorite Tam Now!I bet u didn't need that paper, All you do now! Living the Dream! Lucky Butt Hole
I new this Channel a while back would be fantastic and What else on Earth is there for you to do but be the RC Kick Tamiya Man!Congratulations U Deserve to Happy for you!Will I be back around Try and Keep me away!!!
That is Unless you like Depriving a RC Lon Part of his Fix!
Mighty Nokkey’s RC channel has all parts on his upgrade videos.
Ouch! That stinks. The TC looked good. I think that is too fast for that car. My Touring cars do 35 and that's clickin along pretty good. You'll fix it. The Phantom looks good.
Great vid , sorry about the crash .
Thats most kind of you to say David.
@@RCKickschannel I've crashed a few in my day , and man I know it sucks . Just finished my monster beetle , first run broke both mirrors off and scratched the body .
How many people are going to get the looney tunes reference are know where thats from. I miss the 80's.
Hi there, if I was you I’d be putting bearings over the outside of the drive cups on all the brushes systems, that tin pot metal is too soft. It stops them disintegrating.
I'm scraping the stock design and going with Tamiya 54515 XV-01 Assembly Universal Shafts. This should help.
Sorry to see your hard work get damaged like that. At least it’s not a total loss as you now have a runner body
I'm giving away the TC-01 crashed body on my Patreon site signed by the crap driver ;)
I’m just glad it was the tamiya and not the Kyosho 😄 glad there was no major damage though we all know what a PITA doing that body was!
A part of me just died....
so your crash test proves the halo saves the driver
He's fine, not a scratch lol. Halo has some scratches but it didn't take a full on hit by the looks of it. I'm amazed how well it held up actually.
at least you are still smiling :) the metal used in that drive cup looks of poor quality so lets hope the new ones are better
I can't find replacements online. I will have a look at some other cars today and see if I can match up the part. Fingers crossed its a stock part from another model and not new for the TC-01
I would not be surprised if it a part from another Tamiya will fit at all
I love tamiya I do have some old ones and ta04 f1'ns
Run it without the body next time 😂
100% hehhee
Compare your Kyosho with Tamiya F103, and i think the issue will not be the same ...
I’ve been trying to get an F103 as it goes.
I don't see the relevance of racing 2S vs 3S battery power. It's not an even comparison; like comparing a Corvette to a Chevette. There will be a HUGE RPM increase going from 2S to 3S, it'll be 33% faster on 3S, all else being equal. Put a 3S in the Kyosho and re-run your comparison. I'll bet the Fantom would make a good challenge even with the brushed motor in there...and it'll probably hold up better than the Tamiya plastic-craptastic would.
It was just a bit of fun and entertainment to see what the cars will do in stock form.
@@RCKickschannel It might've been a better comparison if you ran the Tamiya with a 2S LiPo. :)
I hope the Tamiya TC-01 will be back soon
Thanks, I hope so 👍🏻 I just need a replacement front axel cup.
You need to replace with all TRF parts and upgrades.
well now u know the feeling of me tryi
ng to hit 60mph on F103 witch its RWD too.no so easy ha`?
I came here for the crash Gavin !
You have been a subscriber for a year Michael just so you would end up seeing me crash a car? Now that's dedication to my bad driving skills LOL! I respect that!
RCKicks It was inevitable, just took longer than I anticipated...
Going fast is not everything. As racers say: Every man can drive straight and father a child.
lol running two different power system to compare??? if switch the system kyosho Fantom tops out at 80mph and tc-01 will be 32mph. waste of time even compare.
Completely! one is a 1/12th pan car and the other is 1/10th. It's just a bit of "fun" to see what top speeds the two cars are running in stock form.
Not worth replacing definitely see if they make some sort of universals for the front.
All that work painting and detailing the body 🤦♂️
And that’s why my race bodies get the same care and attention to detail as a US Taxi cab’s paint job 🍺😂👍🏽
Yep gutted. I have a replacement but I can’t face it yet lol
This isnt a comparison of how they both crash at 53MPH?
Don’t get stock replacements, get the XV-01 double jointed shafts.
Do you know if these fit the TC01?
3s is too much power, and power is nothing without control.
Looking at the car, the camber and rear toe doesn't look adjustable and the kit tamiya tyres are designed for slower speeds.
All that adds up to a difficult to control car. Very telling on rear wheel drive as the car just spins. There's no grip there at all.
Public road speed runs are dodgy to, if you hit someone you can be sued. BRCA membership would cover you against this.
SO in other words.. if you want a speedster rc.. get a Arrma Felony type chassis.. Those are doing well over 100mph atm.
I would love one! Just super $$$$$ :(
if your not crashing your not trying
Your Not supposed To Play With The R/C Car's On The Road 🤦♂️
Thank you for the reply. After going over severial reviews I decided to go with the same set up. LOOK OUT he's on the road!!! For set-up Ideas on the TC-01 chassis set up I saw this youtube segment th-cam.com/video/4QHMRFmnTJK/w-d-xo.html. The address should work if not the title of the segment is called "Tamiya TC-01 Tuning and hop-up tricks".The interesting thing is 0 chamber on the front wheels, 3 degrees toe IN on the rear tires. Also noted aluminum shocks. The springs on the schocks was also interesting in his logic.
I have the 3PV-2.4G futabe 3 channel in which I have tried to access the program which does: the faster the rc car goes the steering is less sensitive. Thus one is able to control high speed just a bit better. Try as I might I can't seem to get it all together. Help here would be nice from someone.
As an old skool racer, what were you trying to accomplish bashing a pancar made for at least a prepped surface, “against” a new car clearly meant for the parking lot/basher??
It takes a clean area/track to run a pancar w/foams, even the compounds meant for asphalt.
Rubber tires will do well almost anywhere.
I used to parking lot race a trinity street spec, nitro touring, electric touring.
This trend in basher cars going for speed runs kills me!
No talent in big rpm brushless w/3-8s lips!
That old Fantom would embarrass a modern touring running even a spec brushless n 2s lipo.
Used to hate the buba that wanted to make his nitro monster truck faster than his buddy’s stadium truck or some other race orientated car. It’s made to do what it does, you don’t off-road an Indy car, and drag racing a 10+ pound beast should be against the same thing.
On road car 35-40mph on an indoor carpet track is blazing “fast”, frankincar with 10s lipo and 50,000kv brushless wouldn’t make a lap in respectable time or crashing.
Just my $0.02
If like to see that Fantom with vintage motor n 2s lipo on a carpet track!
Christ it was just a fun little video
You won't show the actual footage because maybe it shows you made a mistake and crashed it yourself 🤣🤣, only joking 😁
I would love to show you the footage for any crash, be that a fault for crap driving or a part failure. I would have something to show for all the hours of work I put into that body and the £100 repair bill.
My 1991 Tamiya Top Force did 71Mph totally stock other than the motor and esc....lol (vid on my channel to prove). I was hoping the TC-01 would be a good speed run chassis. I guess not.
71, nice. It's too early to give a full conclusion on the TC-01 yet, it could have just been a single bad part. I will send it again for 60-70MPH as soon as I can get the replacement parts.
Ouch but worth it
Not for me unfortunately. I spent days on that car and I like keeping them in good condition. This video won't cover 30% of the repair cost. I'm not a basher at heart thats for sure lol :)
@@RCKickschannel I have to agree I'm not a basher either. I usually make concious decision before the build whether to run or self it.
Replace them with #Tamiya/54961. Much stronger !
Snapped parts at 58 is disgusting Tamiya should be ashamed. It’s not like they were plastic.
Yep, you don’t expect an alloy outdrive to let go at that speed. I haven’t seen others having the same issue so it could have just been a defective part that I was unlucky to get.
@@RCKickschannel right I could see under initial load but. Not at speeds under 100. I know they won’t but they should at least send you a new free body and parts to fix up on the house.
@@RCKickschannel I wonder if the dog bones were flexing and getting near the end outdrive like what happens to the bbx where it’s at its thinnest and it couldn’t take it. Either way it’s a design flaw.
Tamiya!
Tamiya and Speed runs do not go together. they are just too fragile.
Too fragile???
The F1 cars are strong enough.
Agree 100%. I love Tamiya but the plastics are poor (still just like 40 years ago they haven’t improved their plastics at all - must be costing issue to keep prices lower). The overall designs are not as refined as competitors - they get squirily at moderate to high speed. The gear boxes are poor - just listen to them they sound terrible like a combo of plastic and pot metal gears slamming around. Even something like the Traxxas 4-Tec is vastly superior as far as performance.
@@bcastromusic Haven't improved their plastics? I'm pretty sure they have over the past 40 years. That doesn't seem like a factual statement to me. Also i just build my first kit and the gearbox actually feels buttery smooth tbh.
Chris Watson I love Tamiya but stand by it. I have or have had everything from TT01, TT01E, TT-02, TA-05, TRF419, TGS, TGM, all the way back to that F1 wizard thing back in ~1989 (forget the chassis name) and my very first ever car the grasshopper in 1986 and then wild one and others. The plastics and gearboxes are inferior to just about everything else I have. I’ve probably broke hundreds of Tamiya shocker towers, castor blocks & hubs, gear boxes and other parts over the years and they’re simply not as refined as others stuff. Tamiya are the only cars that you take a screw out twice and the plastic Is totally stripped. This is the case 40 years ago and still today. Most companies use better plastics or fiberglass or graphite reinforced plastics.
Proves Tamiya's new frame and car is not worth the money. I feel for you mate.
You gotta be kidding, that fantom costs 450 GBP-37mph. A wltoys 144001 which costs less than 100 will do that on 2s lipo. What a waste of money!! That money will get you over 100mph if you mod a 144001 or any other half way decent car!!
Running a vintage motor so you can't expect mega MPH. Chassis can take more no problem.
Tamiya don’t make these fast, because Japan drives really slow, motorways 80 kph, I’ve done 111 kph with a rc car👍🏻
What you need is a circuit¡¡
One day I will build an RCKicks track. I will open it up for people to use, now that would be great fun.
@@RCKickschannel Eager to see it. That day I'll visit your country just for that.
gav buy a caravan demolish the house build a race track sorted .
One day we will see an RCKicks track. 🙏🏻
No sense Comparation
get a new one then film hehe
Parts are coming and I will film everything from now on.
Its a Tamiya so no more....
Never understand and I will not understand why you drive cars on a public road, these cars are made to run on a track independently are on or off road car. What type of fun you have on a public road, all rc cars are made to run on a track to see what they are capable of and have fun even if you are not a race guy. Waste of times only no interesting boring and rubbish comments if you drive a car on the straight on a public road. If manufacturers paying to talk about their cars but if they want to promote the brand and cars better they move to another channel, the same happen for Tamiya channel. Never purchase a car if these manufacturers intend to sponsor your channel or any other channel based on this criteria .
Why bother watching if you feel like that?
Let's be honest most people buy these cars to sit on a shelf and admire or have a blast around a carpark. If Tamiya/Kyosho relied on people buying their cars for race purposes only they would have gone bankrupt years ago.
Racing has its place in the hobby but its the casual drivers that are the manufacturers main income.
I second that.
If you live in the UK you will that clubs/venues for minority hobbies are vertually nil !!!!!! If there is a venue/club it is probably at the other end of the country.
You have to use what you can and what good would a track probably be for a flat out speed run?? Just my opinion.
Aside from your comment making very little sense, its a model car that can be run on a smooth surface and it's his to do what he wants with it. Next time you dont have much to say, try not using as many words to not say it.
Craig Garrett VC you did not understand the point, the point is if it’s an RC car model should be used on a track to see how enjoyable used these RC cars on a track and not on a straight line on a public road. Racing it’s a another story and never say that. Also if you used any RC cars on a track you will help and support any RC track owners that spend time effort and money to let playing rc fans. If I would Tamiya or Kyosho or any other rc brands I ask these channels to used their cars , I presume they give them for free, on a local rc tracks to support the hobby in general.
$265 and they cheap out by using dogbones instead of CVD's. Yikes Tamiya. Even WLtoys doesn't cheap out like that.