Complete List of Materials Used: homedepot.sjv.io/anVVVq List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
@@jonathanbriggs8827 A bit late for your comment Jonathan but I was also wanting to know the list (VPN to the rescue!). For anyone UK based wanting to know what's in the Home Depot basket: 4" x 6" x 8ft - Ground contact pressure-treated timber (Qty 12 / $20.48 per item) 4" x 6" x 10ft - Ground contact pressure-treated timber (Qty 2 / $25.28 per item) 6" x 3/8" - flat headed wood screws (Box of 12 / $21.47) 0.25 cubic feet of 3/4 inch crushed gravel. (Qty 8 bags / $22.99 per item) 12.5 x 50ft - weed barrier fabric ($53.41) 10ft x 5/8" - rebar (Qty 4 / $14.97 per item) The basket total came to $615 at the time of this comment. Please forgive me for not doing any unit conversion!
It seems like every video I watch on building just about anything outside shows level land. Finally a video that tackles the problem of sloped land. Thank you!
Another option for building on a hill is to make a wooden platform, but you need to size the floor joists to handle the load. An advantage is that you can jack it up to level after each winter.
Great video, and series. I've watched them all as of 08-14-2024. I'm going back now and rewatching them again. I read the comments here and didn't see the link for the Pressure Treated treatment you used for the PT cuts on the 4x6s. I'd like to get some. Thanks
Thanks for this video and the subsequent series. Can we start a discussion of why one might prefer to do a gravel pad rather than post-in-concrete footers? Is it only because of the possibility of moving the shed down the road?
Yes! That is the primary reason, having the ability to move later on. Also, this video helps those interested in building a pad and having a shed delivered. Other alternatives are full concrete pad, but that is much more costly… I pretend to do a video on each option in the future to help on the decision making… thanks for watching!!
Question? Can you build the shed on top of the leveling pad 4x4’s or 6x6’s so the outside wall boards hangs over allowing rain water to drain away? Excellent video explaining everything well. Thanks
I see where you are going with this... however, having a "buffer" of gravel around the shed helps with drainage and stops the vegetation to grow near and underneath the shed.
This is a great video. I have an uneven back yard. I’m looking to build a border like this (but larger) to level the ground for a playground set. For inside of the border, is it imperative to dig out the center ground material? Mine would be sod/soil. I’m wondering if it’s worth it to also dig the center out or if I can just dig the perimeter square. I will be using the weed barrier material. Thanks again.
Inside you can add any material you want, expect compost(roots/leaves/etc) which will decay. Some people add rocks, pieces of concrete, sand, dirt.... The end goal is to have th 4-6" of level gravel on top. Good luck.
Sorry, but we are still working on the plans and material list… it should be available together with the last video of this series, so stay tuned!! Thanks for watching !!! 👍
Looks great. Can I concrete the floor instead? I'm aware that if I wanted concrete, the framing might instead be built on top of it, not surrounding it. Just want to know what my options might be. Thanks.
@@EverydayShed And it is not so much the cost of the concrete itself that is high. It is the cost of skilled labor to prep for it, place it, and finish it.
Good question! Although, it does help with drainage, using three smaller sections instead of one full board saves us money. That first section would be completely buried and these boards are pretty expensive nowadays. 🛠️👍
Why no gravel under the sides and top sections? And why no gravel behind the downhill side? Wouldn't these improve drainage and lead to a longer lasting result?
Gravel are great for drainage, the more you add the better it is... Great point, i'll keep that in mind for the next time I do another pad video... Thanks for watching. 👍👍
It will just be a challenge moving the shed to the new foundation location. You might be able to pay a shed mover a bit to stop by with his shed mover mule.
Question: you said something like when your pick " breaks 5.5 inches of the finish grade its time to step up to another level of digging." Do you have a rule of thumb for how much deeper to dig every time you step up to make it easier at the finish? Thank you for the video.
Not really a rule of thumb, but I prefer to have the lumber about an inch buried in the ground. My thoughts it that it will help stay in place after the backfill.
The benefit of a pad is that it helps on drainage around the shed, second the skids being laid directly on the gravel, helps distribute the weight of the shed. There is a smaller chance to sag over the years. However it does come with a much higher investment cost and labor…. I have done blocks and it works pretty well, just keep in mind over the years, the ground may shift and you may have to te-level your blocks and shed.
Anything touching the ground will accelerate the rot even with the ground contact pressure treated postes. We have used Flex Seal in the past to give a rubberized coating and I know others have using roofing tar.
Unless that is ground contact lumber, it is going to rot. It's a great frame, but unfortunately pressure treated lumber isn't as rot resistant as it used to be. You should have used railroad ties. it will last for a few years, but then you are going to have rot issues.
@@EverydayShed they are also heavy as boulders. I don't like to be that guy in the comments, but it's disappointing just how fast PT lumber rots with any soil contact. If you're in a dry climate (that was red clay, I'm thinking tennessee, or SC or GA...) it may last longer, but I made some raised flower boxes out of PT that lasted about 2 years and were totally rotted out.
Question. Going to build one of your sheds in my daughters yard. She has an enclosed area next to her house enclosed by a fence. About how much room do I need to leave around the foundation/structure to still be able to put up the walls?
Hey there.. there are 3 things to consider, One, you can build as close as you want, if you build the wall first and then just set it in. Just like i built this one th-cam.com/video/vJFawNjVA-w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cSbExeqGZQX3E79n Second, you need enough room for drainage around, it all depends on your back yard, i left one feet around this shed. Lastly, consider the county and city rules for set back, some requires 5-10 feet... Thanks for watching.
Why the weed barrier on the whole pad? Would weeds grow through the shed where there's no sunshine? I would think putting it around the perimeter would be enough.
Only a foot or so,... Look this way, the rebar is meant to hold all the boards together, we drive it in the ground just to keep in place. the weight of the gravel will keep the "box" in place.
I would only caution that if it's touching ground it should be pressure treated wood. Choosing the right wood is important. As an alternative to the wood, what about using cinder block with rebar and Quickcrete cement instead of the wood?
you need to tamp the dirt to compensate for the settling, Your rebar is not supposed to penetrate through the bottom timber into the dirt it rusts the rebar and promotes wood rot!
Complete List of Materials Used: homedepot.sjv.io/anVVVq
List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Are you able to put a list of the materials used, the link doesn't work for me in the UK🫣
@@jonathanbriggs8827 A bit late for your comment Jonathan but I was also wanting to know the list (VPN to the rescue!). For anyone UK based wanting to know what's in the Home Depot basket:
4" x 6" x 8ft - Ground contact pressure-treated timber (Qty 12 / $20.48 per item)
4" x 6" x 10ft - Ground contact pressure-treated timber (Qty 2 / $25.28 per item)
6" x 3/8" - flat headed wood screws (Box of 12 / $21.47)
0.25 cubic feet of 3/4 inch crushed gravel. (Qty 8 bags / $22.99 per item)
12.5 x 50ft - weed barrier fabric ($53.41)
10ft x 5/8" - rebar (Qty 4 / $14.97 per item)
The basket total came to $615 at the time of this comment. Please forgive me for not doing any unit conversion!
It seems like every video I watch on building just about anything outside shows level land. Finally a video that tackles the problem of sloped land. Thank you!
Heck yeah, having a little slope is the reality for most of us 👍.
Yess! Agreed! This is great. So so helpful
And all the yard videos too! 🙄
Great vid. Thx for sharing. Perfect for those of us with imperfect building sites, and who have more time than $$.
Outstanding video! Appreciate all you share. Walking backwards burns more calories than walking forward.
Thanks for the support and best of luck on your build 🙌
Another option for building on a hill is to make a wooden platform, but you need to size the floor joists to handle the load. An advantage is that you can jack it up to level after each winter.
I have seen some of those which can be a nice option 👍
Can't wait to watch the video! 👍
We have a ton of exciting projects coming in the next 6 months. Excited to share the projects with you guys 👍
Great video, and series. I've watched them all as of 08-14-2024. I'm going back now and rewatching them again. I read the comments here and didn't see the link for the Pressure Treated treatment you used for the PT cuts on the 4x6s. I'd like to get some. Thanks
Something like this would do the job... amzn.to/3M7FxXt
@@EverydayShed Thank you. Added to my cart 🙂
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is exactly what i needed.
Happy to help!
Lov the video it made may sloped project much easier
Awesome, we are here to help 🙌
Thanks for this video and the subsequent series. Can we start a discussion of why one might prefer to do a gravel pad rather than post-in-concrete footers? Is it only because of the possibility of moving the shed down the road?
Yes! That is the primary reason, having the ability to move later on. Also, this video helps those interested in building a pad and having a shed delivered. Other alternatives are full concrete pad, but that is much more costly… I pretend to do a video on each option in the future to help on the decision making… thanks for watching!!
That looks really great... but all that work.. probably gonna hire it out.
Yeah, there is no shortage of hard labor in this one, especially in the summer 😅
Could you use this same concept and expand for a parking pad that you do with concrete?
yes, very similar.
Question? Can you build the shed on top of the leveling pad 4x4’s or 6x6’s so the outside wall boards hangs over allowing rain water to drain away? Excellent video explaining everything well. Thanks
I see where you are going with this... however, having a "buffer" of gravel around the shed helps with drainage and stops the vegetation to grow near and underneath the shed.
This is a great video. I have an uneven back yard. I’m looking to build a border like this (but larger) to level the ground for a playground set. For inside of the border, is it imperative to dig out the center ground material? Mine would be sod/soil. I’m wondering if it’s worth it to also dig the center out or if I can just dig the perimeter square. I will be using the weed barrier material. Thanks again.
Inside you can add any material you want, expect compost(roots/leaves/etc) which will decay. Some people add rocks, pieces of concrete, sand, dirt.... The end goal is to have th 4-6" of level gravel on top. Good luck.
I luv it!!! ❤🔥❤🔥❤🔥 Thanks for explaining!! I'll be hiring!
Awesome!
You bet, happy to help 🙌
you sound just like Borat. You gotta say "This is niiiiice" next video PLEASE!
😂
You mentioned links or plans etc that would be in the description but I dont see those. Maybe I missed them!
Sorry, but we are still working on the plans and material list… it should be available together with the last video of this series, so stay tuned!! Thanks for watching !!! 👍
Looks great. Can I concrete the floor instead? I'm aware that if I wanted concrete, the framing might instead be built on top of it, not surrounding it. Just want to know what my options might be. Thanks.
Yes you can concrete. Its just a higher cost for concrete. Thanks for watching!!
@@EverydayShed And it is not so much the cost of the concrete itself that is high. It is the cost of skilled labor to prep for it, place it, and finish it.
Why the three board sections at the bottom of the top of the slope instead of one full board?
Probably for drainage.
Good question! Although, it does help with drainage, using three smaller sections instead of one full board saves us money. That first section would be completely buried and these boards are pretty expensive nowadays. 🛠️👍
Why no gravel under the sides and top sections? And why no gravel behind the downhill side? Wouldn't these improve drainage and lead to a longer lasting result?
Gravel are great for drainage, the more you add the better it is... Great point, i'll keep that in mind for the next time I do another pad video... Thanks for watching. 👍👍
Can this be done after the shed is on site?
It will just be a challenge moving the shed to the new foundation location. You might be able to pay a shed mover a bit to stop by with his shed mover mule.
Question: you said something like when your pick " breaks 5.5 inches of the finish grade its time to step up to another level of digging." Do you have a rule of thumb for how much deeper to dig every time you step up to make it easier at the finish? Thank you for the video.
Not really a rule of thumb, but I prefer to have the lumber about an inch buried in the ground. My thoughts it that it will help stay in place after the backfill.
What's the benefit of the joists sitting right on the gravel versus putting them on 4x4 posts on concrete standoffs?
The benefit of a pad is that it helps on drainage around the shed, second the skids being laid directly on the gravel, helps distribute the weight of the shed. There is a smaller chance to sag over the years. However it does come with a much higher investment cost and labor…. I have done blocks and it works pretty well, just keep in mind over the years, the ground may shift and you may have to te-level your blocks and shed.
For a newbie I was wondering what type of drill bits needed for the rebar
Great question!!! I used a 5/8" drill bit...
What about wood rot for the wood that is below ground? Would there be a way to start with cinder blocks as the base below the dirt? 🤔
Anything touching the ground will accelerate the rot even with the ground contact pressure treated postes. We have used Flex Seal in the past to give a rubberized coating and I know others have using roofing tar.
@@EverydayShed cool - thanks. I had a thought of putting cinder blocks as the base level and then securing the wood on the top of them.
Great video. 👍
Thanks!!!
Unless that is ground contact lumber, it is going to rot. It's a great frame, but unfortunately pressure treated lumber isn't as rot resistant as it used to be. You should have used railroad ties. it will last for a few years, but then you are going to have rot issues.
💯 correct!!! It’s just though finding rail road ties around here.
@@EverydayShed they are also heavy as boulders. I don't like to be that guy in the comments, but it's disappointing just how fast PT lumber rots with any soil contact. If you're in a dry climate (that was red clay, I'm thinking tennessee, or SC or GA...) it may last longer, but I made some raised flower boxes out of PT that lasted about 2 years and were totally rotted out.
Question. Going to build one of your sheds in my daughters yard. She has an enclosed area next to her house enclosed by a fence. About how much room do I need to leave around the foundation/structure to still be able to put up the walls?
Hey there.. there are 3 things to consider,
One, you can build as close as you want, if you build the wall first and then just set it in. Just like i built this one th-cam.com/video/vJFawNjVA-w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cSbExeqGZQX3E79n
Second, you need enough room for drainage around, it all depends on your back yard, i left one feet around this shed.
Lastly, consider the county and city rules for set back, some requires 5-10 feet...
Thanks for watching.
Why the weed barrier on the whole pad? Would weeds grow through the shed where there's no sunshine? I would think putting it around the perimeter would be enough.
One of those things that doesn't cost too much more to just do the whole thing. 👍
I noticed that at the top starter row it wasn't solid all the way across. Any reason for this?
I was just trying to save on lumber, if you have enough lumber its the way to go.
@@EverydayShed That makes sense. I was trying to over-engineer things
Good evening, What dimensions are the beams used to make the platform?
Hey! It is 4x6 pressure treated lumber... 👍
How deep do you need the rebar into the ground to hold the weight?
Only a foot or so,... Look this way, the rebar is meant to hold all the boards together, we drive it in the ground just to keep in place. the weight of the gravel will keep the "box" in place.
I would only caution that if it's touching ground it should be pressure treated wood. Choosing the right wood is important.
As an alternative to the wood, what about using cinder block with rebar and Quickcrete cement instead of the wood?
For the cost and convenience we always just go with the pressure treated lumber 👍.
Brazuka!
Tamo Junto!
good
Thanks
Could have just kept digging out a flat area - no need for expensive timber then!
Agree... but digging is hard labor...
you need to tamp the dirt to compensate for the settling, Your rebar is not supposed to penetrate through the bottom timber into the dirt it rusts the rebar and promotes wood rot!
Thanks for the feedback!
those are fiberglass rebar, they won't rust.
Thanks. That's good to know.
It's not steel rebar, so your comment was silly and obviously from a place of trying to look like a big shot on TH-cam. What a sad existence man.
@@Hammer.J.Helmerof course there's no humility from the one who called him out incorrectly. after you let him know the facts.
Its all a joke anyway! A competant builder would know.
Thanks for wacthing.