Complete List of Materials Used: homedepot.sjv.io/6eLLLE List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I just finished building my floor/base for my chicken coop. I followed your video perfectly. I'm going to tell you that was the most perfect build for me. Everything was perfect. I'm so proud of my floor and I'm thankful for your video.
I built a 12x16 shed. I doubled the rim with 2x8’s and 2x8’s 12” OC. Used blocks for the corners and the middle of the 8’ rim. Hasn’t moved or sagged in 20 years. 3/4” T&G plywood for flooring.
My concrete slab guy flaked out on me, and I decided to do the foundation exactly as you did it with Pressure treated wood frame, on a slight slope , and gravel. I finished that today. Shed starts next week. Love you plan and my shed will be the same only 8’x10’. Great video, and explained extremely well, yes there are a few things you can always tweak, it your build method is very solid and easy to follow along. I am building just like you show on the video. Thanks again Rich
A tip... don't hold the floor joists with your hand so close to the rim joist when using a nail gun. The nail can hit a knot or something and shoot out the side of the joist and go into your hand. Also, you didn't crown the joists. Might not think it's important on a shed this small, but it will help keep the floor from sagging in the future.
Good tip. I had to learn the hard way back in the day. After you put a 3 inch framer through your finger, you NEVER forget to hold your hand back far enough...
Are those 2x8, or 2x6, 8 foot joists and 12 foot ledger boards? I'm ready to use your method, but cant order lumber without knowing this. Thanks for the video
Hey there!! These are 2x6s floor joist and ledgers, this is very common among the shed builders around my area... By the way, the "walls" video is coming out in few days. Thanks for watching. 👍🛠
Nice video, thanks for posting. I plan to build the same shed, however it will seat on a concrete pad. Could I use 2x4s instead of 2x6 for the foundation? Thanks
@@carstx if it is sitting on the pad I would say 2x4 would work 16" on center spacing. The challenge would be moving it in the future as it is nice to have 4x4 under the floor serving as skids.
Nice video. I like the floor design. Looks solid for this shed. Still can't find a link to the pressure treatment product you use. It looked different on this video vs the first video type. Love to get a link to it on your Amazon or Home Depot links
Depends on your area but if you use the course gravel you should have good drainage to keep the water away from the pressure treated skids which will help ensure a long life. A lot of people use the concrete block to get the skids off the ground but that is more from an easy of leveling perspective as the rock will take more materials and work.
I live in arizona where we sometimes get strong monsoon storms. Micro burst in particular come down hard in some areas. Its no tornado or hurricane but sometimes they can do some damage. Would having a shed rest like this in such weather be a problem? Dont want my shed to be pushed around if i was to build it like this.
There are hurricane ties made specifically for sheds. And some counties requires them regardless of shed size. It is on my list to make a video educating people about hurricane ties for sheds. Thanks for watching.
5:52 Construction screws are not intended for ACQ (treated) lumber. Epoxy coated (deck), zinc plated/galvanized), or stainless steel screws should be used. ACQ is corrosive, think "rust accelerator".
Yes, and also the nails in the framing nailer should be galvanized if you are shooting into treated lumber. I’ve heard that even if not exposed to weather the preservative chemicals in the wood will eat away at the fasteners causing them to rust away prematurely.
I don't see a materials list in the description. What kind of 3" screws did you use for the joists? I would assume they need to be an exterior grade structural screw, but other than really expensive TimberLok or something like that I've not found an economical solution. Decking screws are too brittle, and I've not seen exterior construction screws, so I'm genuinely curious.
I'm still building the material list and plans... As far as which screws, all you need is exterior screws, something like these.. www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-9-x-3-in-Philips-Bugle-Head-Coarse-Thread-Sharp-Point-Polymer-Coated-Exterior-Screw-1-lb-Pack-PTN3S1/100115639
How much do you think the total cost of materials is for this shed? I’m trying to decide between building one like in this video or buying a kit, similar to what Scott assembled in another video.
We are still building this shed, however I presume the cost will be close to Scott’s shed, however this is a much stronger shed. Once we are done, I’ll make a cost comparison video on both… thanks for watching, stay tuned….
I am sure in heavy rains there will be some moisture around the skids but since the gravel base is course rock the water should drain down away from the skids to minimize the moisture exposure.
Having the stagger seams will help the overall floor structure and weight distribution across the joists. If you are using 16"on center joist, 3/4" plywood, and not storing anything heavy you could lay the 3 sheets without any cuts and be fine but what was shown in the video is best practice 👍
Minor item - shouldn't there technically be a 1/8" gap for expansion between the OSB sheets? Presumably not a significant issue for a small shed but a good building habit. Also if the goal is a "strong" shed, and you want it to be movable in the future, probably best to add joist hangers. Great video in any case.
@@zoso1123 See LP Topnotch installation instructions - the tongue-and-groove side has a built-in 1/16" space, but for the other orientation a 1/8" gap should be incorporated. Installation instructions also say to glue inside the groove. Fastest resource is "8 Common Sub-Floor Installation Mistakes" on LP's subflooring page.
@@EverydayShed I'm an amateur DYI. Do you think that you might consider doing a video on how to build an addition to an existing shed from the ground up to the roofline?
I would have added some sort of leg supports in the middle of the floor. Maybe even have a 3rd 4x4 right in the center. Especially for anyone considering storing a garden tractor in their shed.
Adding another skid and supports in the center would help for sure, specially if storing heavy equipments like you mentioned. Great point! thanks for sharing.!!!🛠👍
I use the 6x6 cribing to suspend my floor joist! A much smaller footprint, and lower to the ground! easier to get heavy things into the shed, when they are at ground level. and not so many rises! Whats with holding the speed square on the cut offs? looks dangerous! All the T and G plywood I use finishes to 48" wide where do you get yours? One last thought "NEVER" use O.S.B. plywood! Especially when water comes into play!!!!!!! Those that can do! Those that can"t Teach!!! I have 50 years experience as a carpenter! Can you imagine trying to roll a motorcycle into that shed????
The benefit of having a bed of gravel is that you have an larger area allowing for drainage, plus it blocks the growth of vegetation underneath the shed. There is nothing wrong, using blocks, actually it is in queue for a future video.
I built my 8x12 shed on a similar base, the four concrete estimates I got in my local area ranged from $750 -$1000 vs. the $590 I spent in gravel and pressure treated 2x6. Just over 20% (from the lowest bid) is a significant savings for a non-permanent structure. Also, I have the added advantage of being able to move or sell this shed, unlike one built on a concrete slab in a traditional manner.
Agree 100%... In the future, I will do a concrete pad video and we can see costs of each. I know concrete costs has gone up lately. Thanks all for watching! 👍
@@That_Stealth_Guy I got a price for concrete for 950, and told him I would pay him 1200. He came to frame up my pad and told me price would be 1500, so I passed on concrete and did wood and gravel like other neighbors have done and shed starts next week. I did the base and wood for 800, but I had rock delivered twice rather than go pick it up. Concrete is nice but I don’t like people playing games and just don’t do business that way. I also live in snow country, so I don’t want to bag mix a slab and it falls apart because of not proper air entrainment, which I have seen happen.
Nice Job,,,but only put on as much Plywood glue when putting down the plywood as you need,, then just before putting down the next piece put out some more adhesive on..The way you did it the stuff would be dry before you sit down those last pieces down..2. Rocks are good for drainage,,,but rocks move ,,it might be level when you started but by the time weather and the weight that you put in that shed could alter that to unlevel,,I like to go with concrete pads and get the wood off the ground,,,the pads won’t move at all,,and yr never in contact with any moisture or unstable rocks,,,
Complete List of Materials Used: homedepot.sjv.io/6eLLLE
List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I just finished building my floor/base for my chicken coop. I followed your video perfectly. I'm going to tell you that was the most perfect build for me. Everything was perfect. I'm so proud of my floor and I'm thankful for your video.
I built a 12x16 shed. I doubled the rim with 2x8’s and 2x8’s 12” OC. Used blocks for the corners and the middle of the 8’ rim. Hasn’t moved or sagged in 20 years. 3/4” T&G plywood for flooring.
That is a BEAST 💪
My concrete slab guy flaked out on me, and I decided to do the foundation exactly as you did it with Pressure treated wood frame, on a slight slope , and gravel. I finished that today. Shed starts next week. Love you plan and my shed will be the same only 8’x10’. Great video, and explained extremely well, yes there are a few things you can always tweak, it your build method is very solid and easy to follow along. I am building just like you show on the video.
Thanks again
Rich
Awesome, thanks for the feedback and best of luck on the project 👍
I'm obsessed with shed vids.
Join the club 😂
Thanks for watching! We have a lot shed videos coming up... 😀
There is help out there.
I'm 3 days into a Shed bender. (Or "Shender" if you're a dad).
@@Sardy540 😂 that's awesome! We need shirts 💯
A tip... don't hold the floor joists with your hand so close to the rim joist when using a nail gun. The nail can hit a knot or something and shoot out the side of the joist and go into your hand. Also, you didn't crown the joists. Might not think it's important on a shed this small, but it will help keep the floor from sagging in the future.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the help!
Good tip. I had to learn the hard way back in the day. After you put a 3 inch framer through your finger, you NEVER forget to hold your hand back far enough...
For sure, we have to be safe!!! Thanks all for the comments
Beautifully done, sir. Clearly explained. Excellent!
Thanks!
Very clear, and appreciate the tip for those without a nail gun. Excited to see the rest of the series!
Thanks for watching! It's going to look great!
Excellent videos, keep up the great work.
Starting today on my shed love your build Thank you
Let’s Go!!! Best of luck on the build 👊
Nice job, I learned so much. Video is informative and makes the job look easy and clean.
Glad it was helpful! Lets build it!
That was so cool and easy to follow, thanks.
Great, thanks for the feedback 👍
Thank you for your expertise and experience and for the material list it’s so helpful
You are so welcome!
Very nice pad, foundation, and floor. The gravel is a good way to keep water drained away.. What do you do about animals living underneath?
Great question! You can use chicken wire or make a “shed skirt” … I’ll add this idea to our video list.. thank you! 🙏 😊
Excellent Instructions.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Are those 2x8, or 2x6, 8 foot joists and 12 foot ledger boards? I'm ready to use your method, but cant order lumber without knowing this. Thanks for the video
Hey there!! These are 2x6s floor joist and ledgers, this is very common among the shed builders around my area... By the way, the "walls" video is coming out in few days. Thanks for watching. 👍🛠
Very useful information here. Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
I have a barn with gravel flooring. Would I be wrong for not using treated lumber?
Nice video, thanks for posting. I plan to build the same shed, however it will seat on a concrete pad. Could I use 2x4s instead of 2x6 for the foundation? Thanks
If you have a concrete pad I would just use that as the floor and start constructing the walls. Is the pad in good shape?
@EverydayShed thanks for the feedback. The pad is new concrete, but I might move the shed in the future. Would a 2x4 foundation be sufficient?
@@carstx if it is sitting on the pad I would say 2x4 would work 16" on center spacing. The challenge would be moving it in the future as it is nice to have 4x4 under the floor serving as skids.
@@EverydayShed thank you, 16" OC, is what I was planning and with all treaded lumber.
Nice video. I like the floor design. Looks solid for this shed. Still can't find a link to the pressure treatment product you use. It looked different on this video vs the first video type. Love to get a link to it on your Amazon or Home Depot links
This link will provide the complete list of products used in this video at Home Depot homedepot.sjv.io/6eLLLE
@@EverydayShed Only shows 7 items, not PT liquid you used.
is it better to put that skid board on the rock or put foundation pear blocks? how long will those skids last compared to piers?
Depends on your area but if you use the course gravel you should have good drainage to keep the water away from the pressure treated skids which will help ensure a long life. A lot of people use the concrete block to get the skids off the ground but that is more from an easy of leveling perspective as the rock will take more materials and work.
Great Video. We have been trying to decide how to build our shed floor and this is it!
How would you suggest securing it for strong winds?
You can use "shed anchors", this is actually a good idea for a future video. Thanks
I live in arizona where we sometimes get strong monsoon storms. Micro burst in particular come down hard in some areas. Its no tornado or hurricane but sometimes they can do some damage. Would having a shed rest like this in such weather be a problem? Dont want my shed to be pushed around if i was to build it like this.
There are hurricane ties made specifically for sheds. And some counties requires them regardless of shed size. It is on my list to make a video educating people about hurricane ties for sheds. Thanks for watching.
5:52
Construction screws are not intended for ACQ (treated) lumber. Epoxy coated (deck), zinc plated/galvanized), or stainless steel screws should be used.
ACQ is corrosive, think "rust accelerator".
Great point, I should look more into this.... i've use construction screws on areas not exposed weather... Good point though. Thanks!
Yes, and also the nails in the framing nailer should be galvanized if you are shooting into treated lumber. I’ve heard that even if not exposed to weather the preservative chemicals in the wood will eat away at the fasteners causing them to rust away prematurely.
If i dont plan on moving the shed, are the skids still necessary? My floor frame is all treated and level on gravel pad. Thanks!
You could probably get by without it but I do like how it keeps the floor structure off the grounds which will extend the floor life.
I don't see a materials list in the description. What kind of 3" screws did you use for the joists?
I would assume they need to be an exterior grade structural screw, but other than really expensive TimberLok or something like that I've not found an economical solution.
Decking screws are too brittle, and I've not seen exterior construction screws, so I'm genuinely curious.
I'm still building the material list and plans... As far as which screws, all you need is exterior screws, something like these.. www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-9-x-3-in-Philips-Bugle-Head-Coarse-Thread-Sharp-Point-Polymer-Coated-Exterior-Screw-1-lb-Pack-PTN3S1/100115639
@@EverydayShedThank you.
How much do you think the total cost of materials is for this shed? I’m trying to decide between building one like in this video or buying a kit, similar to what Scott assembled in another video.
We are still building this shed, however I presume the cost will be close to Scott’s shed, however this is a much stronger shed. Once we are done, I’ll make a cost comparison video on both… thanks for watching, stay tuned….
what about the wood in contact with the gravel with no damp course between? the wood will draw moisture from the gravel
I am sure in heavy rains there will be some moisture around the skids but since the gravel base is course rock the water should drain down away from the skids to minimize the moisture exposure.
Why did you cut the boards and stagger like that? I would have thought laying the 3 side by side would have worked. Thanks!
Having the stagger seams will help the overall floor structure and weight distribution across the joists. If you are using 16"on center joist, 3/4" plywood, and not storing anything heavy you could lay the 3 sheets without any cuts and be fine but what was shown in the video is best practice 👍
Thank you
Minor item - shouldn't there technically be a 1/8" gap for expansion between the OSB sheets? Presumably not a significant issue for a small shed but a good building habit. Also if the goal is a "strong" shed, and you want it to be movable in the future, probably best to add joist hangers. Great video in any case.
Opsy! Great catch... You are right, we should always keep an 1/8" Gap. Thanks for watching.
No osb sub floor does not require a gap
@@zoso1123 See LP Topnotch installation instructions - the tongue-and-groove side has a built-in 1/16" space, but for the other orientation a 1/8" gap should be incorporated. Installation instructions also say to glue inside the groove. Fastest resource is "8 Common Sub-Floor Installation Mistakes" on LP's subflooring page.
if it is out of square, how is it possible to tap it into square when everything is already fastened together?
You want to make sure you square it first before adding all the center joists.
Excellent!!
Many thanks!
Thank you
Happy to help!
Nice!
Thanks! Keep an eye out for the next videos. 🛠👍
@@EverydayShed I'm an amateur DYI. Do you think that you might consider doing a video on how to build an addition to an existing shed from the ground up to the roofline?
I would have added some sort of leg supports in the middle of the floor. Maybe even have a 3rd 4x4 right in the center. Especially for anyone considering storing a garden tractor in their shed.
Adding another skid and supports in the center would help for sure, specially if storing heavy equipments like you mentioned. Great point! thanks for sharing.!!!🛠👍
Thanks
Welcome!!!
I use the 6x6 cribing to suspend my floor joist! A much smaller footprint, and lower to the ground! easier to get heavy things into the shed, when they are at ground level. and not so many rises! Whats with holding the speed square on the cut offs? looks dangerous! All the T and G plywood I use finishes to 48" wide where do you get yours? One last thought "NEVER" use O.S.B. plywood! Especially when water comes into play!!!!!!! Those that can do! Those that can"t Teach!!! I have 50 years experience as a carpenter! Can you imagine trying to roll a motorcycle into that shed????
Thanks for the feedback and I appreciate you sharing your experience.
I've read putting a shed on a bed of gravel is a good idea, but this almost seems like as much if not more work as putting in some post footings.
The benefit of having a bed of gravel is that you have an larger area allowing for drainage, plus it blocks the growth of vegetation underneath the shed. There is nothing wrong, using blocks, actually it is in queue for a future video.
@@EverydayShed I understand drainage, but it's built on a hill
What happened to the info promised the “…the description below…”?
We are still building this shed, the material list and plans will be available along the last video of this series… stay tuned! Thanks for watching😊
2 points. OSB will not hold up as subfloor over time and those screws are not rated for pressure treated lumber
Cool! we will keep updating our recommendations moving forward. Thanks for watching.
I'm not a mathematician but if the floor is 8 x 12, wouldn't you just lay down 3 uncut 4 x 8 sheets?
Yeah, few other folks mentioned the same thing. Next build I'll try just that. Thanks for watching.
if you had put the sheets on the other way all the seams would be over joists...stronger...and there would be no need to cut any sheets...faster
I do see sheds being built that way, i've always staggered them like this... next time i'm going to try what you said, and we can see the difference.
You could also use a hammer and nails....
True, many different ways. Although the nail gun is a bit of an investment for a DIYer it is hard to go back once you get one.
And now that we’re done framing our flooring, it’s time to put the… WHAT?
Walls next!!! lol 😂… thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
concrete slab would not have cost much more than that foundation and last much longer.
I built my 8x12 shed on a similar base, the four concrete estimates I got in my local area ranged from $750 -$1000 vs. the $590 I spent in gravel and pressure treated 2x6. Just over 20% (from the lowest bid) is a significant savings for a non-permanent structure. Also, I have the added advantage of being able to move or sell this shed, unlike one built on a concrete slab in a traditional manner.
Agree 100%... In the future, I will do a concrete pad video and we can see costs of each. I know concrete costs has gone up lately. Thanks all for watching! 👍
@@That_Stealth_Guy I got a price for concrete for 950, and told him I would pay him 1200. He came to frame up my pad and told me price would be 1500, so I passed on concrete and did wood and gravel like other neighbors have done and shed starts next week. I did the base and wood for 800, but I had rock delivered twice rather than go pick it up. Concrete is nice but I don’t like people playing games and just don’t do business that way. I also live in snow country, so I don’t want to bag mix a slab and it falls apart because of not proper air entrainment, which I have seen happen.
That is a chunky chunky pad
Oh yes!... you can drive a riding lawnmower in this setup.
Consumer applied treatment can be as poor as no treatment, better not to cut the wood if it is avoidable to maintain pressure treatment.
Yeah, just hard to avoid on most builds. Thanks for the feedback.
Standard framing methods for years....is this TikTok ????
Yes! It's funny how many things around us change, and yet, some of the basic concepts we take it for life. Thanks for watching!!!
Nice Job,,,but only put on as much Plywood glue when putting down the plywood as you need,, then just before putting down the next piece put out some more adhesive on..The way you did it the stuff would be dry before you sit down those last pieces down..2. Rocks are good for drainage,,,but rocks move ,,it might be level when you started but by the time weather and the weight that you put in that shed could alter that to unlevel,,I like to go with concrete pads and get the wood off the ground,,,the pads won’t move at all,,and yr never in contact with any moisture or unstable rocks,,,
Thanks for the feedback!
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
Damn dude, it's a shed not a garage.
Just a little over kill.
Total waste of time and money.
Oh yeah! It's going to be pretty rock solid... Anyhow, this is the spec that shed builders around me are going for. Thanks for watching!!🛠🎬