I can personally vouch for this product , as i have used it myself . I'm not even close to being a professional , i'm a part time spanner whirler , a home mechanic . I researched this method , mainly using this video , but i did watch others . Located the exact same tool in this country , then put my money where my mouth was so to speak , and brought one . The biggest problem i could see , was identifying the plastic type , fibreflex removed that issue . The result , i repaired the bumper for my motorhome , that was basically scrap . Replacement cost would have been well over a £1000 GBP , yet i repaired mine for £180 . Yes it did take me three days , and no it is not painted yet , but it is in primer , and awaiting paint . I'm seriously chuffed . Repaired a front spat too , that had a hole in it , and several tabs had broken through . I would have needed two of those , at £350 each . Still got the other side to do . A previous owner had repaired one with body filler , and done the same with the bumper , but that had fallen off . I found the stain . I'm so pleased with the result , i'm currently in the final planning stage , to convert the dashboard to accept a double din multimedia player . The original is a standard single din radio slot . It's fairly major work as one part of the panel , needs rearrangement of the cigar lighter , and complete removal of the ashtray .
I'm not sure about a camper, but you can usually buy a new painted bumper online for about $500. Risk there being the paint might be a little newer, but this looks like a long job and then you still have to be able to paint it, which is by no means a given. Great option if you're already tooled up, but just another set of stuff you need and the paint equipment, and if you've not done auto painting it can really come out like crap with the wrong stuff. Proceed cautiously, but I would suggest buying a new bumper in many cases.
@@DoneWaitingActually my friend , the bumper is now painted and refitted . Despite the RV being 20 odd years old , the bumper is still available with a replacement cost of 1500 pounds (that British sterling) , around 2500 dollars at the last conversion rate i saw . Total repair costs came in at significantly less , around 480 pounds , including paint . It should be noted a professional repair would have bumped this up considerable , possible over a thousand , likely making replacement more economical . However a new product would also have involved importing from Germany , so this cost could well have been higher too , but would have been painted . The colour is basically the colour of the plastic it's moulded in , then lacquered . I will admit , i did cheat with paint , mainly due to size , i had this done by professionals . I've also repaired a total of three of the four spats , plus converted the dashboard from single din to double . This was quite an involved job , as the cigarette lighter had to be moved , and the ashtray removed completely . However i did paint the spats myself .
As a professional auto body shop owner this product is amazing as in the best i have used in my shop. This has saved my customers lots money by repairing and blending as necessary and has made me good money. Thanks for this great product.
I am curious how much such repair would cost, looks like a lot of work, something a body shop where I live would probably charge same price as cost of new bumper + painting
Thank you, Finally someone challenges the strength of their repair with a real good flexing demonstrating confidence in their product. Good job! There are many demonstration clips online that would not pass such a test.
For all of you saying it is unnecessary and to buy a new part, I am going to purchase this to repair a very rare front lip for my car which was discontinued years ago. it is a clean break but broken clean in 2 pieces. This seems to be the best route to join the pieces back into one.
Now that i've had a good chance to use this product many times in my shop i'm very satisfied with your product. It works great and is super strong and works as easy as your video. Thank You
I'm a new customer from Canada, I just received my order tried this out and i'm very impressed your product. Works as shown in this video. Well worth the money. Best plastic welding i've did so far with the FiberFlex and your Stainless Steel reinforcement. Thank You
Visit this video page on our website to see the full list of products used and other helpful tips: www.polyvance.com/video/fiberflex/fiberflex-bumper-repair
For the cost of the materials you can go to Ebay or Amazon as well as a junk yard and buy a new or replacement bumper. You are likely (from my experience of late) going to be over $200 into materials (weld product, primer, filler, sand paper, primer again, not to mention the special tack up spray, then the paint to cover and clear coat. To give an example of price I am restoring a Mercedes and it had a bad vent cover on the dash. the cost to JUST buy the primer was $18.00 from NAPA, the paint $18,00 for the rattle can, $20 for the cover/sealer finish PLUS TAX. As you can see to repaint just a 4" x 4" piece of plastic to match the rest of the dash $60 and that is the fraction of the materials he used. The part in case you are wondering cost $12.00 with shipping
Very good product, quick tip if you cant get this product what you can do is cut a piece from the bottom of the bumper and use that to fill the crack. Will work wonders 😄
Yes, using scrap material from a part made of the same type of plastic will work! However, that's a little bit of a different repair method. When repairing using filler material the same as the base material, you want to melt both plastics at the same time and blend them together. We've got several videos about fusion welding for anyone interested. But FiberFlex is designed to be a universal repair rod. It's made of a blend of different materials and used like a hot-melt adhesive. In the case of FiberFlex, you're not melting it together with the base material.
Man you like creating work for yourself. The original back side fix was good enough. No one would ever notice lol. Still your point is well taken... In the case of an accident and front damage, this seems to be a strong permanent fix. I will give it a try.
You mention at 2:20 that you're pressing down so that the heat can melt the bumper's plastic underneath the mesh. However, in another video, you say to avoid melting the component's plastic and to only melt the Fibreflex rod.
So, we are melting the base material to securely embed the mesh into it. The base material will cool before we add the FiberFlex. It's fine to melt the base material to embed mesh, but you don't want to melt the FiberFlex into the melted base material. FiberFlex is not a fusion weld; it's basically a hot melt adhesive. You want to roughen up the base material to create some scratches. You'll only melt the FiberFlex and smear it into those scratches. FiberFlex is made up of a blend of materials. We point out the fact that you don't melt the base material with FiberFlex because when you do a fusion weld, you do melt the base material. A fusion weld is created when you take a welding rod that matches the base material and blend them together (ex: for a polypropylene bumper cover, you would use a polypropylene welding rod). In that case, you would melt both the base material and the welding rod and fuse them together while you weld.
i find using plastic cable ties do just as well... they melt into the base plastic very well. you can melt staples or pins into the plastic to add strength....only tool needed isa soldering iron.
A lot of people try to use zip ties for plastic welding because they're similar to welding rod, but they can be made of any of dozens of types of plastic. There's no way of knowing for sure what their chemical makeup is. If they're made of something like polyethylene or nylon, they won't fuse with a bumper made of polypropylene.
muy bien , la idea del soldador en forma de paleta es muy buena , s0lo una cosa veo que no habeis realizado , al final de la raja es mejor hacer un taladro para darle un final si no por mucho que sueldes con la vibracion la raja seguira avanzando ,, un saludo
No es necesario perforar un agujero al final de la hendidura. Cuando suelda la pieza, el extremo de la hendidura se mezcla con la varilla de relleno, lo que la convierte en una pieza de plástico. Si se tratara de una reparación adhesiva, entonces está en lo correcto, sería prudente perforar un agujero al final de la grieta.
Temos que fazer um trabalho mais rustico para chegar a um bom acabamento, por não achar para comprar certos produtos. Foi a melhor restauração que já vi, parabéns.
I need to try it ps Try to add perma-grit tools to your shop they are the best tools to cut plastic , composites etc ....its like comparing cheap drill to strongest milwaukee u can get wayyyyy easier to grind , cut etc with them.
Its primed and ready to paint. The finished result is based on the paintjob and not the repair. Although i agree that an after shot would be nice, its not really necessary
yep i wanted an aftershot too man im so dissapointed im really picky and they woulda probably shown us a new bumper instead of the repaired one who knows so its prolly better not to be fooled
We showed the end result of what FIberFlex looks like when it is finished (and primed) which was the point of the video. There is a shot of this at the end. It gives a good idea of how it will look under the final coat of paint. We did not show how to finish painting the bumper because it wasn't necessary to show the FiberFlex repair, and we have other tutorials that go over how to refinish bumpers. Of course when you are actually repairing a bumper to be used on a car, you would properly sand the paint away before painting. We only needed to show this small spot job to show how the FiberFlex looks when it has primer over it. The end shot does a good job at giving the viewer an idea of what the repair will look like in the end. There won't be a big difference in the way the repair looks between the primer and the final coat of paint. With the primer on top, you can't even see the FiberFlex repair.
Maxym Jobin, we have been doing plastic repair since 1981. We pride ourselves in our knowledge of plastic repair. We have no reason to lie and show a new bumper instead of the repaired bumper. Feel free to look around our website and check out our other tutorials to see what our products can do!
This means fiber glass got lick out. I didn't like it anyway when i applied it, it scratches me weather i applied it on Boat are Car well i love ❤️ this new idea.
If you check out our website and other videos, you will see that we have several types of rod that can be used to match the plastic on bumpers and create a fusion weld. Fusion welding with a nitrogen welder provides an extremely strong repair. We do also have HDPE rods and LDPE rods for kayaks and other polyethylene repairs. This video showcases FiberFlex, our universal welding rod. We have a low-cost FiberFlex kit that is great for DIYers. FiberFlex does not provide a fusion weld, but it is a hot-melt adhesive that is applied with a plastic welder. So, it is similar to a brazing process. It sticks well to polypropylene and TPO. You can see in this video that FiberFlex can be used to create a very strong repair.
When you make the v-groove and you get to the end of the crack, you make a radius with the end of the crack as the center point. This is done on both sides, but the second side is done after the first and when the second side is v-grooved, the "V" creates an area so thin (in the original material, that it acts like a stop drill hole...The load is effectively transferred away from the crack and into the Fiberflex. Not only that, but few cracks in bumpers are stress or fatigue related, they are usually caused by an impact, which because a bumper isn't under a lot of stress anyway, doesn't tend to grow unless its flopping in the wind. Now, if this were an wingtip or aircraft canopy, I would stop drill it first, but those are hard plastics locked into place by rivets or screws, and because of this are under a lot of stress when they expand and contract with temperature and the force of air.
Lol, my man was working that hammer wasn’t he. Put air in his cheeks and everything. I know the camera crew was like, “Bill, Bill, dude, we just wanted to show some strength but not that this stuff makes the bumper indestructible now. Easy with the hammer.”Aww man, I was dying also cause it reminded me of those informercials with the cheesy products. Not saying this is cheesy by any means but yeah, it would be Fiberflex is so strong, you can even use a hammer on your bumper, 🤣🤣🤣.
my mom's 05 Lesabre front driver side marker light in the lower bumper is buster out. It seems the hole is fine but the plastic poles that the screws go in to draw the light to the bumper are broke.Is there a way to repair this? Also, the poles or tabs on the light housing are broke and need repair. The yellow cover and the white back or the rest of the assembly are good. Thank you, Don.
We've got a new video focusing on an "L" shaped tear in the corner of a bumper: th-cam.com/video/FO1_Y5jXnKo/w-d-xo.html This bumper has some cracks in the grille opening: th-cam.com/video/jxSCUptp118/w-d-xo.html This video shows a Dodge Challenger with a lot of damage: th-cam.com/video/2F2pK_GpIro/w-d-xo.html However, in all of those videos, we are making a fusion weld with a nitrogen plastic welder. But you could make the bonded repair using the airless plastic welder and FiberFlex welding rod by following the steps in this video.
@@polyvance Not really what I meant. I am talking about a 90 degree edge inside of a fog hole. Like the inside of an L. Not the outside if you know what I mean
@@johnkey1506 Inside corners are generally pretty easy if they are hidden. You basically create a fillet in the 90, then just do some cosmetic welding on the outside, reshape, sand, filler, and youre done. On Inside corners like in the bottom of a foglight bucket, but on the front side, you would just weld it from the back if something needed to fit inside the hole of the front. No need to weld the front if a light goes over it.
@@scottb7600 I am repairing a version 4 STi bumper cover with the big round fogs, the hole is square and they don't cover 100%. I want it as close to perfect as possible. Thanks for the tip!
@@johnkey1506 youre welcome. If you want to send photos, go to polyvance's website and send them to info and I can give you a better idea of exactly what you'll need to do to make the repair. Please make sure the pics are in focus and not so close I cant tall what I'm really looking at.
Noo, I dont think so. If you think about it, you dont need the expensive machine to get the job done. All you need are the plastic rod, steel mesh and a cheap heat gun.
Im actually surprised how well that worked. I have to say Im curious about one thing though. The Fiberflex is applied with what appears to be a large soldering iron with a spade tip? what kind of temperatures does this run at? Ive seen in the past, flexible bumper repair sticks for a hotmelt glue gun. Is this the same idea as that?
Similar idea, but with the Fiberflex kit you can apply the pressure needed to work the fiberflex into the sanding scratches plus you have the extra strength of the fiber reinforcement, but with hot-melt you really have nothing more than glue sticking to the surface. It may work, but my experience, fiberflex is much easier to use, it can be sanded and refinished just like a factory new bumper.
Would you recommend I use this for small cracks along the edges of the tail lights of my rear bumper? its brand new but when it came there were cracks along the edges of the brake lights. i figured i could pay a shop for this repair and went ahead and signed off the delivery receipt.
It would be a suitable repair, but I would recommend using some stainless mesh on the backside to help distribute the load away from the crack repair. A fusion weld would also be a good choice for this area.
@@Scalpelled its really not bad at all and there is enough material in that kit to do quite a few bumper repairs. When you run out of rod, you can order just that to replenish the kit. The same kit is also great on kayaks and canoes, although you would want to use R04 polyethylene rod instead. Down the road, if you did want to do a fusion weld with this kit, its perfectly capable, you would just need R02-04 polypropylene filler rod. One last thing if you are going to paint over the repair, be sure to get some 1060FP Filler Prep or 1050 Plastic Magic Adhesion Promoter so your paint will stick and so your filler won't have the tenancy to roll up. 2000 Flex filler works great. Its epoxy based and sands well, but remains flexible over time.
No, you would want to do a fusion weld on that material using either the airless plastic welder or nitrogen plastic welder. Our R07 welding rod is PC. You could also use a two-part adhesive. www.polyvance.com/identify.php
Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes, you can just paint the area and blend the color, but you would need to have a perfect match for the color and normally you would want to clear the entire bumper. Body shops have the paint, mixing system, and expertise to do this. I doubt that a DIY'er could pull it off unless you weren't expecting perfection in the first place.
Hey Jason. All of that is going to depend on what you already have/don't have/what you want. You can purchase FiberFlex in many ways, for example. You can purchase our Mini-Weld Model 7 (which has FiberFlex rods included), you could purchase the FiberFlex Repair Kit (which also has FiberFlex rods included), or you could use an existing welder or the airless side of our nitrogen welder along with FiberFlex rods (which come with some of the welders or can be purchased separately). If you would like to call us during the week and speak with a tech, you can do that. They can figure out what would be best for you. Thanks for watching!
I can't give you an accurate total cost, there are too many variables. Usually, the materials cost is typically in the range of $20. THIS does NOT include upfront costs such as the welder, the filler, etc...this is only for the materials used...most of it being the cost of filler.
@@scottb7600 Yes, I am doing a DIY project but i was just checking the price in comparison to buying a new bumper. But yes i am looking at your website so i am making a rough calculation on just the material. Not the instrument tools. But thanks again for the very quick response
Hi! No, the bumper would not be made of FiberFlex...FiberFlex is our registered trademark for the black welding rods you see in this video. About 95% of late model bumpers are made of polypropylene, TPO, or TEO, so it's probably one of those. It could also be urethane, but that is less likely. If you have the chance to look at the bumper, you can check for an identification symbol. Here's our Identification Chart: www.polyvance.com/identify.php
Yes, but only if you use adhesion promoter first. The reason it was done in adhesion promoter and primer first was so you can better see where the filler needed to go.
You might want to price that out. I think you'll find that in most cases its much cheaper to repair a bumper than it is to replace one. There are added benefits in addition to the typical cost savings; you'll have no fitment issues with a repaired bumper, you don't have to wait for parts, and you'll be keeping your 10 to 20lb bumper out of the land-fill. That's a lot of plastic!
Window screen is no where near heavy enough gauge to make much difference. The material in the kit is heavy stainless steel mesh. Most zip ties are nylon and won't weld a bumper. Even if you decide to use those things, you still need the tool. The tool comes as a kit with the right stuff, so why play around cobbing something together that may or may not work?
A bumper will not be made of FiberFlex...FiberFlex is our trademarked name for this welding rod blend. About 95% of late model bumper covers are made of polypropylene blends. FiberFlex works great on polypropylene and TPO. Alternatively, you can fusion weld a polypropylene bumper cover with a polypropylene welding rod. FiberFlex is just supposed to be a "universal" rod that you apply like a hot-melt adhesive.
Buying a new bumper may not be that easy or cheap. More expensive cars have new OEM bumpers that cost a lot. Additionally, some older cars might have hard to find bumpers (which makes them more expensive). You can find aftermarket parts cheaper, but you also run the risk of them not fitting your car properly (which you would have to pay to fix). Of course, all cases are different, and the amount of damage will need to be evaluated to see if it is worth repairing the part (or having it repaired). But many times, it is cheaper to repair cracks, tears, tabs, etc. than to replace the whole part. Especially on something like a small broken tab that is easily repaired and not visible (which means you don't have to do any refinishing work on them).
FiberFlex is not recommended for use on motorcycle plastic. Most street bikes are made from ABS. We recommend using our PlastiFix kit (www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/ ) on rigid plastics like ABS. We have a TH-cam playlist where we repair tabs and cracks in motorcycle fairings using PlastiFix: th-cam.com/video/cD-w0nYp-A0/w-d-xo.html
On street bikes, most are ABS and its better to weld them with (R03) ABS welding rod or use PlastiFix. PlastiFix is my go-to on street bike fairings made of ABS because its easy to use, its incredibly strong and its easily finished. On Harleys, they use GTX a lot, so the (R15) GTX rod would be the welding rod of choice. Plastifis also works on this type of plastic, but not as well as it does on ABS, so on Harley's my first choice would be welding. On dirt bikes, virtually every dirt bike is made of polyethylene. This plastic can only be welded. Even though they are HDPE, I prefer the (R04) LDPE rods as it seems to blend easier for whatever reason.
I can personally vouch for this product , as i have used it myself . I'm not even close to being a professional , i'm a part time spanner whirler , a home mechanic . I researched this method , mainly using this video , but i did watch others . Located the exact same tool in this country , then put my money where my mouth was so to speak , and brought one . The biggest problem i could see , was identifying the plastic type , fibreflex removed that issue . The result , i repaired the bumper for my motorhome , that was basically scrap . Replacement cost would have been well over a £1000 GBP , yet i repaired mine for £180 . Yes it did take me three days , and no it is not painted yet , but it is in primer , and awaiting paint . I'm seriously chuffed . Repaired a front spat too , that had a hole in it , and several tabs had broken through . I would have needed two of those , at £350 each . Still got the other side to do . A previous owner had repaired one with body filler , and done the same with the bumper , but that had fallen off . I found the stain .
I'm so pleased with the result , i'm currently in the final planning stage , to convert the dashboard to accept a double din multimedia player . The original is a standard single din radio slot . It's fairly major work as one part of the panel , needs rearrangement of the cigar lighter , and complete removal of the ashtray .
Mickey, thanks for sharing your story! We love hearing how people use our products! :)
I'm not sure about a camper, but you can usually buy a new painted bumper online for about $500. Risk there being the paint might be a little newer, but this looks like a long job and then you still have to be able to paint it, which is by no means a given. Great option if you're already tooled up, but just another set of stuff you need and the paint equipment, and if you've not done auto painting it can really come out like crap with the wrong stuff. Proceed cautiously, but I would suggest buying a new bumper in many cases.
@@DoneWaitingActually my friend , the bumper is now painted and refitted . Despite the RV being 20 odd years old , the bumper is still available with a replacement cost of 1500 pounds (that British sterling) , around 2500 dollars at the last conversion rate i saw . Total repair costs came in at significantly less , around 480 pounds , including paint . It should be noted a professional repair would have bumped this up considerable , possible over a thousand , likely making replacement more economical . However a new product would also have involved importing from Germany , so this cost could well have been higher too , but would have been painted . The colour is basically the colour of the plastic it's moulded in , then lacquered . I will admit , i did cheat with paint , mainly due to size , i had this done by professionals .
I've also repaired a total of three of the four spats , plus converted the dashboard from single din to double . This was quite an involved job , as the cigarette lighter had to be moved , and the ashtray removed completely . However i did paint the spats myself .
@@mickey1299 Hello Mickey, may I know which garage you did the repair. I live in East London and required this repair. Thanks.
Wow, I have seen many videos as plastic welding. This is the nicest and quietest and professional made video I have ever seen. I am a subscriber!
Thank you!
Great!! Appreciate the professional, thorough but simple to understand but VO and video demos. This stuff looks amazing
Thanks for watching!
As a professional auto body shop owner this product is amazing as in the best i have used in my shop. This has saved my customers lots money by repairing and blending as necessary and has made me good money. Thanks for this great product.
We're glad you like it!
I am curious how much such repair would cost, looks like a lot of work, something a body shop where I live would probably charge same price as cost of new bumper + painting
My expectations weren't that high before watching this but I'm actually impressed and would try this out.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, Finally someone challenges the strength of their repair with a real good flexing demonstrating confidence in their product. Good job! There are many demonstration clips online that would not pass such a test.
Thank you so much!
For all of you saying it is unnecessary and to buy a new part, I am going to purchase this to repair a very rare front lip for my car which was discontinued years ago. it is a clean break but broken clean in 2 pieces. This seems to be the best route to join the pieces back into one.
Good luck! Feel free to call us if you have any questions about the repair!
No luck needed. You can do it for sure!
Now that i've had a good chance to use this product many times in my shop i'm very satisfied with your product. It works great and is super strong and works as easy as your video. Thank You
That's great to hear!
I'm a new customer from Canada, I just received my order tried this out and i'm very impressed your product. Works as shown in this video. Well worth the money. Best plastic welding i've did so far with the FiberFlex and your Stainless Steel reinforcement. Thank You
As a DIYer I can say this was definitely over-kill
Agreed
Lebanese?
Amjad Ghanem that’s why you’re a DIYer and not a pro
Ben Birchman I straight up just watch it for the satisfaction.
What does a DIYer even mean?
Visit this video page on our website to see the full list of products used and other helpful tips: www.polyvance.com/video/fiberflex/fiberflex-bumper-repair
This is factory work bro. Good Job.
Best fix i have seen yet
Thanks for watching!
It's amazing how, with this kit, you can do the job in under 8 minutes and 39 seconds!!!
friedchicken looks like you didn't read the disclaimer at the beginning of the video...don't worry; I won't tell
@@darkonniodonascimento6810 TY lol you must be Italia. come stai fra :D
For the cost of the materials you can go to Ebay or Amazon as well as a junk yard and buy a new or replacement bumper. You are likely (from my experience of late) going to be over $200 into materials (weld product, primer, filler, sand paper, primer again, not to mention the special tack up spray, then the paint to cover and clear coat. To give an example of price I am restoring a Mercedes and it had a bad vent cover on the dash. the cost to JUST buy the primer was $18.00 from NAPA, the paint $18,00 for the rattle can, $20 for the cover/sealer finish PLUS TAX. As you can see to repaint just a 4" x 4" piece of plastic to match the rest of the dash $60 and that is the fraction of the materials he used. The part in case you are wondering cost $12.00 with shipping
Very good product, quick tip if you cant get this product what you can do is cut a piece from the bottom of the bumper and use that to fill the crack. Will work wonders 😄
Yes, using scrap material from a part made of the same type of plastic will work! However, that's a little bit of a different repair method. When repairing using filler material the same as the base material, you want to melt both plastics at the same time and blend them together. We've got several videos about fusion welding for anyone interested.
But FiberFlex is designed to be a universal repair rod. It's made of a blend of different materials and used like a hot-melt adhesive. In the case of FiberFlex, you're not melting it together with the base material.
YOU ARE THE BEST IN THIS WORK .GREETINGS FORM LIMA PERU!
Thank you!
OMG i didnt know this even Existed and NEEDED this SO MANY TIMES! Thanks!!
We're glad you like it! Thanks for watching!
that's a quality repair. looks a great product.
Thank you!
@@polyvance credit where credits due.
Can we appreciate the author for his hard work? let's do it
Thank you!
Man you like creating work for yourself. The original back side fix was good enough. No one would ever notice lol. Still your point is well taken... In the case of an accident and front damage, this seems to be a strong permanent fix. I will give it a try.
Another great video without really annoying background music.
I dont care that this is a ad, I like it
We're happy you enjoyed our video! Thanks for watching our FiberFlex tutorial!
You mention at 2:20 that you're pressing down so that the heat can melt the bumper's plastic underneath the mesh. However, in another video, you say to avoid melting the component's plastic and to only melt the Fibreflex rod.
So, we are melting the base material to securely embed the mesh into it. The base material will cool before we add the FiberFlex. It's fine to melt the base material to embed mesh, but you don't want to melt the FiberFlex into the melted base material.
FiberFlex is not a fusion weld; it's basically a hot melt adhesive. You want to roughen up the base material to create some scratches. You'll only melt the FiberFlex and smear it into those scratches. FiberFlex is made up of a blend of materials.
We point out the fact that you don't melt the base material with FiberFlex because when you do a fusion weld, you do melt the base material. A fusion weld is created when you take a welding rod that matches the base material and blend them together (ex: for a polypropylene bumper cover, you would use a polypropylene welding rod). In that case, you would melt both the base material and the welding rod and fuse them together while you weld.
i find using plastic cable ties do just as well... they melt into the base plastic very well. you can melt staples or pins into the plastic to add strength....only tool needed isa soldering iron.
A lot of people try to use zip ties for plastic welding because they're similar to welding rod, but they can be made of any of dozens of types of plastic. There's no way of knowing for sure what their chemical makeup is. If they're made of something like polyethylene or nylon, they won't fuse with a bumper made of polypropylene.
Nice work
Thank you!
Best work do I see in mi live. 100%
This looks like it could fill and smooth the number plate holes in my front bumper :)
Those holes drive me nuts too and yes it could be used for that!
muy bien , la idea del soldador en forma de paleta es muy buena , s0lo una cosa veo que no habeis realizado , al final de la raja es mejor hacer un taladro para darle un final si no por mucho que sueldes con la vibracion la raja seguira avanzando ,, un saludo
No es necesario perforar un agujero al final de la hendidura. Cuando suelda la pieza, el extremo de la hendidura se mezcla con la varilla de relleno, lo que la convierte en una pieza de plástico. Si se tratara de una reparación adhesiva, entonces está en lo correcto, sería prudente perforar un agujero al final de la grieta.
Great products and a professional quality finish. Are they available in Australia 🇦🇺? Thanks in advance
Hi! We can ship lots of products to Australia, but we can't ship any liquids (cleaners, paints, etc.)
Nice kit for diy. Impressive 👍🏻
Thank you!
It is a good work. I like it.
Thanks for watching!
WoW, really nice. Great products.
Thank you! Feel free to call us if you have any questions about our products!
Temos que fazer um trabalho mais rustico para chegar a um bom acabamento,
por não achar para comprar certos produtos.
Foi a melhor restauração que já vi, parabéns.
Obrigado!
I need to try it
ps
Try to add perma-grit tools to your shop
they are the best tools to cut plastic , composites etc ....its like comparing cheap drill to strongest milwaukee u can get
wayyyyy easier to grind , cut etc with them.
Why no after shot? That is simply the last thing you'd leave out of ANY product instructional video!
Its primed and ready to paint. The finished result is based on the paintjob and not the repair. Although i agree that an after shot would be nice, its not really necessary
yep i wanted an aftershot too man im so dissapointed im really picky and they woulda probably shown us a new bumper instead of the repaired one who knows so its prolly better not to be fooled
We showed the end result of what FIberFlex looks like when it is finished (and primed) which was the point of the video. There is a shot of this at the end. It gives a good idea of how it will look under the final coat of paint.
We did not show how to finish painting the bumper because it wasn't necessary to show the FiberFlex repair, and we have other tutorials that go over how to refinish bumpers.
Of course when you are actually repairing a bumper to be used on a car, you would properly sand the paint away before painting. We only needed to show this small spot job to show how the FiberFlex looks when it has primer over it.
The end shot does a good job at giving the viewer an idea of what the repair will look like in the end. There won't be a big difference in the way the repair looks between the primer and the final coat of paint. With the primer on top, you can't even see the FiberFlex repair.
Maxym Jobin, we have been doing plastic repair since 1981. We pride ourselves in our knowledge of plastic repair. We have no reason to lie and show a new bumper instead of the repaired bumper. Feel free to look around our website and check out our other tutorials to see what our products can do!
I am no plastic welder, but this vids are so cool! I would love to try it!
Thanks for watching our videos! Maybe you will get a chance to experience plastic welding one day!
long time ago I use wire, bend in U shape, then melt it in with solder welder. it was time consuming but worked fine.
Just a few days ago i did the same with big staples and finish nails
This means fiber glass got lick out. I didn't like it anyway when i applied it, it scratches me weather i applied it on Boat are Car well i love ❤️ this new idea.
Looks easy enough to use for me, let's hope I never hit anything and end up needing this.
This is an insane amount of work and money for a tiny crack wow
It is a lot, but depending on the value of the bumper, it can be well worth the time and effort.
Bumpers for Lambo or Ferrari could cost 2-5-10k USD. If it is cracked, why not? :)
Good job 👍
Thank you!
These type repairs are not just for bumpers. Im sure they have filler rods for HDPE and other plastics for Kayak repairs as well.
If you check out our website and other videos, you will see that we have several types of rod that can be used to match the plastic on bumpers and create a fusion weld. Fusion welding with a nitrogen welder provides an extremely strong repair. We do also have HDPE rods and LDPE rods for kayaks and other polyethylene repairs.
This video showcases FiberFlex, our universal welding rod. We have a low-cost FiberFlex kit that is great for DIYers. FiberFlex does not provide a fusion weld, but it is a hot-melt adhesive that is applied with a plastic welder. So, it is similar to a brazing process. It sticks well to polypropylene and TPO.
You can see in this video that FiberFlex can be used to create a very strong repair.
I will try this, if it is the last bumper in the world
That happens more than you think! Example... Chevrolet SSR
nice job ... very useful
Thank you!
Do you know if the FiberFlex will adhere to fiberglass?
Nice job brother
Thank you!
this can be top if that would weld old 92 honda bumper BP-T or something
Yes, it can be used on the bumper you describe.
Out of curiosity Why didn't you drill a hole at end of crack to prevent it from spreading? I have always been taught drill at end of crack
When you make the v-groove and you get to the end of the crack, you make a radius with the end of the crack as the center point. This is done on both sides, but the second side is done after the first and when the second side is v-grooved, the "V" creates an area so thin (in the original material, that it acts like a stop drill hole...The load is effectively transferred away from the crack and into the Fiberflex. Not only that, but few cracks in bumpers are stress or fatigue related, they are usually caused by an impact, which because a bumper isn't under a lot of stress anyway, doesn't tend to grow unless its flopping in the wind. Now, if this were an wingtip or aircraft canopy, I would stop drill it first, but those are hard plastics locked into place by rivets or screws, and because of this are under a lot of stress when they expand and contract with temperature and the force of air.
@@scottb7600 I always make v also but I was just curious
@@xxjusxstarxx It was a completely legitimate question. I guess the simple answer would have been, "You just don't need it." :-)
Excelente, gracias!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Lol, my man was working that hammer wasn’t he. Put air in his cheeks and everything. I know the camera crew was like, “Bill, Bill, dude, we just wanted to show some strength but not that this stuff makes the bumper indestructible now. Easy with the hammer.”Aww man, I was dying also cause it reminded me of those informercials with the cheesy products. Not saying this is cheesy by any means but yeah, it would be Fiberflex is so strong, you can even use a hammer on your bumper, 🤣🤣🤣.
All good 👌👍
Thanks for watching!
my mom's 05 Lesabre front driver side marker light in the lower bumper is buster out. It seems the hole is fine but the plastic poles that the screws go in to draw the light to the bumper are broke.Is there a way to repair this? Also, the poles or tabs on the light housing are broke and need repair. The yellow cover and the white back or the rest of the assembly are good. Thank you, Don.
Send some pictures of the part to info@polyvance.com and someone will let you know if it can be repaired. Most likely, the answer is yes.
if I owned a Ferarri and had a lot of time... looks like a fun project though
A repair like this really doesn't take that long!
Thanks for watching!
AMAZING!!!....GOOD PRODUCT..... NO FOR SALE IN SPAIN. : (
I think it is. Contact Polyvance through their website. I know there is a CE approved version of the tool.
@@scottb7600 Thank you very much for the information
Amazing system, looks like a great cost saving alternative to a new bumper. Some covers are serious $ for German cars.
Thanks for watching!
@Chris Farley My 328xi bumper cover is like $40.
@@shannonp4037 you mean 400?
Check my Lightning McQueen project 😊
Very helpful video, this will be super helpful with I have to fix my rear bumber!!
Feel free to call us if you have any questions!
Amazing 😳
Thanks for watching!
This is an easy repair though. What about if you are in a corner? Like a crack in the 90 degree edge of a fog hole?
We've got a new video focusing on an "L" shaped tear in the corner of a bumper: th-cam.com/video/FO1_Y5jXnKo/w-d-xo.html
This bumper has some cracks in the grille opening: th-cam.com/video/jxSCUptp118/w-d-xo.html
This video shows a Dodge Challenger with a lot of damage: th-cam.com/video/2F2pK_GpIro/w-d-xo.html
However, in all of those videos, we are making a fusion weld with a nitrogen plastic welder. But you could make the bonded repair using the airless plastic welder and FiberFlex welding rod by following the steps in this video.
@@polyvance Not really what I meant. I am talking about a 90 degree edge inside of a fog hole. Like the inside of an L. Not the outside if you know what I mean
@@johnkey1506 Inside corners are generally pretty easy if they are hidden. You basically create a fillet in the 90, then just do some cosmetic welding on the outside, reshape, sand, filler, and youre done. On Inside corners like in the bottom of a foglight bucket, but on the front side, you would just weld it from the back if something needed to fit inside the hole of the front. No need to weld the front if a light goes over it.
@@scottb7600 I am repairing a version 4 STi bumper cover with the big round fogs, the hole is square and they don't cover 100%. I want it as close to perfect as possible. Thanks for the tip!
@@johnkey1506 youre welcome. If you want to send photos, go to polyvance's website and send them to info and I can give you a better idea of exactly what you'll need to do to make the repair. Please make sure the pics are in focus and not so close I cant tall what I'm really looking at.
i wonder how propriet this method on fiber glass surface..
Its not appropriate for fiberglass repair. Fiber glass will require the use of glass cloth and epoxy or polyester resin to make a repair.
good work
Thank you!
If I don’t have a grinder what number sand paper can I use to sand it with?
You can use 50 or 80 grit to rough up the plastic.
Excelente 👍
Thanks for watching!
Hello. Why not put filler down first & then primer surfacer?
in this case, the primer was used as a guide coat to see if and where filler would be needed.
Oh ok.
After buying 8 products I could buy a new bumper
Noo, I dont think so. If you think about it, you dont need the expensive machine to get the job done. All you need are the plastic rod, steel mesh and a cheap heat gun.
I think the $70 kit is good enough plus you can just order more of the mesh and rods on the site separately
Im actually surprised how well that worked. I have to say Im curious about one thing though. The Fiberflex is applied with what appears to be a large soldering iron with a spade tip? what kind of temperatures does this run at? Ive seen in the past, flexible bumper repair sticks for a hotmelt glue gun. Is this the same idea as that?
Similar idea, but with the Fiberflex kit you can apply the pressure needed to work the fiberflex into the sanding scratches plus you have the extra strength of the fiber reinforcement, but with hot-melt you really have nothing more than glue sticking to the surface. It may work, but my experience, fiberflex is much easier to use, it can be sanded and refinished just like a factory new bumper.
Would you recommend I use this for small cracks along the edges of the tail lights of my rear bumper? its brand new but when it came there were cracks along the edges of the brake lights. i figured i could pay a shop for this repair and went ahead and signed off the delivery receipt.
It would be a suitable repair, but I would recommend using some stainless mesh on the backside to help distribute the load away from the crack repair. A fusion weld would also be a good choice for this area.
Scott B Are you employed by Polyvance?
@@Scalpelled Affirmative
Scott B Good. I am not listening to anyone else. Thank you, I appreciate it. I was looking for the kit. $70 is not bad at all. 🙃
@@Scalpelled its really not bad at all and there is enough material in that kit to do quite a few bumper repairs. When you run out of rod, you can order just that to replenish the kit. The same kit is also great on kayaks and canoes, although you would want to use R04 polyethylene rod instead. Down the road, if you did want to do a fusion weld with this kit, its perfectly capable, you would just need R02-04 polypropylene filler rod.
One last thing if you are going to paint over the repair, be sure to get some 1060FP Filler Prep or 1050 Plastic Magic Adhesion Promoter so your paint will stick and so your filler won't have the tenancy to roll up. 2000 Flex filler works great. Its epoxy based and sands well, but remains flexible over time.
o melhor de todos que j[a tenho visto até hoje...
Thank you!
Will this work Popup camper plastic storage box cover?
The repair method will depend on the type of plastic. Look for an ID symbol somewhere on it.
4:45 hand drill/ grinder purchase link
Moinsen, klasse Video. Aber woher hast du diese Lötspitze?
Hello. This is our 6031 tip for our newer airless plastic welders: www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welder-Parts-1/6031/
Would it work with bumpers made of PC/PBT, the worst material ever?
No, you would want to do a fusion weld on that material using either the airless plastic welder or nitrogen plastic welder. Our R07 welding rod is PC. You could also use a two-part adhesive.
www.polyvance.com/identify.php
I think that weld is stronger than the original factory bumper. I feel sorry for the car crusher that this weld will meet someday.
Any toxic fumes from the melting plastic?
Amazing my 25 year old Volvo T-5R rare bumper is NOT replaceable
fixing the bumper in ideal conditions, 😂, must be very difficult..
my granny can do same job with these tools...
Silly question but do you need to paint the entire piece or there is a way to paint only the damaged area?
Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes, you can just paint the area and blend the color, but you would need to have a perfect match for the color and normally you would want to clear the entire bumper. Body shops have the paint, mixing system, and expertise to do this. I doubt that a DIY'er could pull it off unless you weren't expecting perfection in the first place.
You can always do a spot paint repair to feather it in the with original paint...most just choose to repaint the whole bumper if its off the car.
Excellent work from where I can get that welding machine
FiberFlex Repair Kit: www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welders-1/5210/
or
Mini-Weld Model 7: www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welders-1/5700HT/
Where you can buy plastic welding tools?
You can go to our website (www.polyvance.com/) or give us a call at 800-633-3047
Excelente 👏👏👏🇧🇷
Thanks for watching!
Muito bom,,, parabéns pelo trabalho
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!! Okay so what was the total cost of all that material use for the repair? including the sanding paper?
Hey Jason. All of that is going to depend on what you already have/don't have/what you want. You can purchase FiberFlex in many ways, for example. You can purchase our Mini-Weld Model 7 (which has FiberFlex rods included), you could purchase the FiberFlex Repair Kit (which also has FiberFlex rods included), or you could use an existing welder or the airless side of our nitrogen welder along with FiberFlex rods (which come with some of the welders or can be purchased separately).
If you would like to call us during the week and speak with a tech, you can do that. They can figure out what would be best for you.
Thanks for watching!
I can't give you an accurate total cost, there are too many variables. Usually, the materials cost is typically in the range of $20. THIS does NOT include upfront costs such as the welder, the filler, etc...this is only for the materials used...most of it being the cost of filler.
@@scottb7600 Yes, I am doing a DIY project but i was just checking the price in comparison to buying a new bumper. But yes i am looking at your website so i am making a rough calculation on just the material. Not the instrument tools. But thanks again for the very quick response
Hi I’m thinking of buying a bumper, the guy says it’s made of fiberflex? Is that a real thing? Bc I’m not sure, thanks!!!
Hi! No, the bumper would not be made of FiberFlex...FiberFlex is our registered trademark for the black welding rods you see in this video. About 95% of late model bumpers are made of polypropylene, TPO, or TEO, so it's probably one of those. It could also be urethane, but that is less likely.
If you have the chance to look at the bumper, you can check for an identification symbol. Here's our Identification Chart: www.polyvance.com/identify.php
@@polyvance thank you so much! 🤝
@@Leeeebronski You're welcome!
So nice
Thank you!
You added glaze over primer? Can I just use a flex glaze and then prime over it?
Yes, but only if you use adhesion promoter first. The reason it was done in adhesion promoter and primer first was so you can better see where the filler needed to go.
Looks like buying a new part might be more cost effective
Can this be used to repair a quarter size hole?
Проще и быстрее будет новый кусок приварить.
with this all cost and time you can order all front parts new with fitting free
You might want to price that out. I think you'll find that in most cases its much cheaper to repair a bumper than it is to replace one. There are added benefits in addition to the typical cost savings; you'll have no fitment issues with a repaired bumper, you don't have to wait for parts, and you'll be keeping your 10 to 20lb bumper out of the land-fill. That's a lot of plastic!
how can I get those tool's
You can give us a call or order on our website (www.polyvance.com/)
Awesome
Thanks for watching!
that's a great tip with the steel mesh
Thank you!
Or use a piece of screen and the cut off end of a zip tie/ Panduit.
Window screen is no where near heavy enough gauge to make much difference. The material in the kit is heavy stainless steel mesh. Most zip ties are nylon and won't weld a bumper. Even if you decide to use those things, you still need the tool. The tool comes as a kit with the right stuff, so why play around cobbing something together that may or may not work?
@@scottb7600 Soldering iron but I'll consider what you said, consider the product.
matur suwun bos kuh
what if those bumpers made out of fiberflex?
A bumper will not be made of FiberFlex...FiberFlex is our trademarked name for this welding rod blend. About 95% of late model bumper covers are made of polypropylene blends. FiberFlex works great on polypropylene and TPO.
Alternatively, you can fusion weld a polypropylene bumper cover with a polypropylene welding rod.
FiberFlex is just supposed to be a "universal" rod that you apply like a hot-melt adhesive.
parabéns você sabe das coisas
What's the name of that soldering tip
It's the 6031 Flat Tear Drop Tip: www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welder-Parts-1/6031/
It comes with the FiberFlex kit and the Mini-Weld Model 7.
So much products to buy it seems cheaper to buy a new bumper
Buying a new bumper may not be that easy or cheap. More expensive cars have new OEM bumpers that cost a lot. Additionally, some older cars might have hard to find bumpers (which makes them more expensive).
You can find aftermarket parts cheaper, but you also run the risk of them not fitting your car properly (which you would have to pay to fix).
Of course, all cases are different, and the amount of damage will need to be evaluated to see if it is worth repairing the part (or having it repaired). But many times, it is cheaper to repair cracks, tears, tabs, etc. than to replace the whole part. Especially on something like a small broken tab that is easily repaired and not visible (which means you don't have to do any refinishing work on them).
How many watts is the tip that heats the fabric?
Our airless plastic welders are 200 watts.
nice repair
Thank you!
The88katana600 6
Does this work on motorcycle plastic?
FiberFlex is not recommended for use on motorcycle plastic.
Most street bikes are made from ABS. We recommend using our PlastiFix kit (www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/ ) on rigid plastics like ABS. We have a TH-cam playlist where we repair tabs and cracks in motorcycle fairings using PlastiFix: th-cam.com/video/cD-w0nYp-A0/w-d-xo.html
On street bikes, most are ABS and its better to weld them with (R03) ABS welding rod or use PlastiFix. PlastiFix is my go-to on street bike fairings made of ABS because its easy to use, its incredibly strong and its easily finished.
On Harleys, they use GTX a lot, so the (R15) GTX rod would be the welding rod of choice. Plastifis also works on this type of plastic, but not as well as it does on ABS, so on Harley's my first choice would be welding.
On dirt bikes, virtually every dirt bike is made of polyethylene. This plastic can only be welded. Even though they are HDPE, I prefer the (R04) LDPE rods as it seems to blend easier for whatever reason.