Awesome repair for high end restorations. For an easy, strong and quick fix that won't have to be repainted I liked to take a piece of stainless steel mesh and just lightly melt it into the back side of the repair. Let it cool and then reattach any missing smaller cosmetic pieces on my front side. Ready for reattachment no paint no hate.
So annoying that car manufacturers design these slots with 90* corners, which is where stress fractures will almost always occur, rather than rounded ends. Also, these are fun to watch! Always enjoy a watching someone skilled at their craft show their magic.
The plastic needs to be the same material as the bumper. PP, PP+EPDM, PE, etc. If you don't use the same plastic it won't take properly and will peel off once cooled. This repair is very similar to the way I was taught over 20 years ago. One of the better repairs on youtube. Only thing I will say is be aware that while the plastic is cooling it can shrink and will pull the bumper out of shape.
It shouldn't pull the bumper out of shape enough to be noticeable. If it was heated to that point, a little too much heat was probably applied. Distortion is less of a problem with nitrogen welding than with airless welding because the duration the part was heated is much shorter than an airless weld. Even then, its not as much of an issue as with metal welding.
My sons dodge avenger is RIDICULOUS! the rear bumper cover all the flanges broke and where you want to feel the back of the plastic clips are inaccessible. I fkin agree with you
We're using Polyvance's polypropylene welding rod. We used polypropylene welding rod because the bumper cover plastic was polypropylene. All of our R02 polypropylene welding rod can be found here: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
Useful information so thanks for posting. Sadly, I'm not the sort of person that would do well with this. The upside is that I now know that the damage I caused when I removed my bumper can be fixed.
The welder is one of our nitrogen plastic welders (meant for use in a collision repair shop) and this particular plastic welding rod was polypropylene.
This video is so well made, ive never seen this before and i am extremely fascinated, i would even be compelled to try this at home and be effective thanks to these comprehensive instructions! i know this is a few years old but thanks for making this video!
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! We've got other videos aimed more toward at-home DIYers versus these nitrogen plastic welding videos that are aimed more toward body shops. Have a look around :)
The tools are only uncommon if they are difficult to find or prohibitively expensive. None of the tools used are either of those. With the exception of the hot air welder/soldering gun there was nothing special or expensive about the tools. Most people have a dermel type tool, soldering iron, clamps of different sizes and sand paper. The hot air soldering gun can be picked up on amazon for $50. Even if you have to buy a dremel, again 30-40 on amazon for an off brand. Your local hardware store will also have tools you can buy for this project for less than the links provided. The cost of having this professionally repaired costs far more than those two thing combined. So, people’s choice. One time outlay to have a pro do it and have no tools or invest into some tools than can be used on this repair that you then own for the next project and save money in the process.
maybe a stupid question but is there a difference in the performance of the rod material and whats in your opinion the universal for the car bumpers I have 3 cars that really can use this
The main thing for fusion welding is that the rod needs to match the plastic type. However, the FiberFlex rod uses a different technique - it isn't a fusion weld. The FiberFlex work great on PP and TPO. What kind of equipment do you have and what kind of damage do you have? You can give us a call and speak with a tech for more detailed help if you would like.
The same repair can also be done for about $70 using the 5211 Polypro airless welder. Just weld over the entire area, then re-cut the slot with a dremel tool and sand to the original thickness It takes A LOT longer, but it will get the job done for the DIYer who doesn't want to replace and repaint the bumper.
We manufacture plastic welding rods. We currently have 22 different material types to match a wide variety of plastics! www.polyvance.com/Welding-Rod-List/
@@scottb7600 Hot air guns reach over 1000 F and all you need for plastic is a few hundred so a hot air gun with the proper tip should be just fine. No need for nitrogen.
@@Marcoosianism In theory yes, but most heat guns will overheat when the air is reduce to a small enough size to be able to control where youre putting the heat. Then the second issue is the volume of air is too high to effectively weld with a heat gun. It kind of like saying I only need one screwdriver for all screws. You don't, you need the right screwdriver for the right screw. You also need the right heat source for each repair.
The broken one has been repaired. Might be a good idea 💡 to strengthen the rest of the tabs in the same manner as the repaired one. That's what I did with my bumper. I did the same process with my back window 🪟 louvre
No. You must use polyurethane welding rod. PUR is thermoset polyurethane and cannot be fusion welded. Our R01 polyurethane rod can be melted. You must use the R01 welding rod to make an adhesive repair. You can view our thermoset polyurethane playlist for more information.
Hi. We used polypropylene welding rods for this repair (because the bumper cover was polypropylene). You can find all our polypropylene rods here: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
The filler rod we are using is our R02 polypropylene welding rod. We used polypropylene because the bumper cover we were working on was polypropylene. www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
What if you are missing half the slot tab and need more than just a tab repair? I would like to hot weld the same material but if I need to recreate over half the tab am I going to need to use epoxy instead?
Just to be clear, forget epoxy on anything made of polypropylene for any structural repair, it will not work. Are you missing the flange the slot tab goes in? I mean, if you are missing the edge of the slot tab, just shape it out of melted PP and then trim it to shape like in the video. If you are missing a large piece of the flange itself, you can sometimes build one out of a thin sheet of PP, like those sold by polyvance and manually cut the slots in in the appropriate places. This would be a more difficult repair and if you are doing this in a shop (for profit), depending on the cost of a new bumper, may relegate it to the scrap pile unless you have another similar bumper you can scab the flange in from.
@@scottb7600 I'm missing a large piece of the flange itself. I have some scrap PP that I can make a template of and try to cut in the slots. This is personal - not for profit in a shop so I can take my time and try to salvage the bumper. If I was charging by the hour I would already be on to a new bumper by now
@@76rmyers Good deal. Check that piece to see if its about the same thickness as the original flange, if it is not, you may need to sand it down before trying to weld it in place in order to make it snap into the body clips. But doing what you describe will be worth the effort, I think and is definitely "doable."
Se utilizaron dos productos para la reparación y se pueden comprar contactando a info@Polyvance.com Polyvance puede realizar envíos a todo el mundo. Los números de pieza son: R02-01-03-NT y R02-04-03-NT
Our R02 polypropylene welding rod: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/ (We used polypropylene filler rod because the bumper cover was polypropylene. It's important that the filler rod matches the base material).
Can you use a heat gun instead of the nitrogen welder? It'll be harder to concentrate the heat to one area, but seems like you'd melt the rods just the same.
Search amazon for "hot air rework station". You can set the exact temperature, volume of air, and use one of the narrow tips that comes with it. I got one for 50$.
@@efrainsanchez1999 Depends on the plastic. Each type of plastic has its ideal melting temperature. Usually between 250 and 500 Farenheit is a good range to be able to heat to.
It's not an adhesive. It's a welding rod that matches the plastic we are repairing (we would use a polypropylene welding rod on a polypropylene bumper). That's why it is so strong. When you fusion weld, you are fusing the new plastic with the base plastic. It becomes one piece again.
Vid is helpful i agree that the average person not privy to tools in this vid…..I think about it like this….I watch and like survivalist shows,think how they improvise off the grid doing certain things,same can be said for this I have at home dremel plastic type stuff clamps and metal strap heatgun I believe it would do save thing MY OPINION
You can, but you would want to embed some 2045W stainless steel mesh into the repair to tie the FiberFlex to the base material. Because FiberFlex doesn't make a true weld, the mesh is needed to increase the sheer strength; it's definitely doable though.
@@scottb7600 Isn't FiberFlex supposed to have a good bond because it is somewhat like "hot glue" jbut supposedly even better than hot glue. so would it be a bit weaker if done with FiberFlex? how much bonding strength does the FiberFlex have (in PSI)? How does FiberFlex compare to a true fusion weld that is done with the correct and compatible plastic rods?
@@lethaldriver Since a true weld with the same material the bumper is made from is just that...a weld and fiberflex is a bond which relies on surface interaction, FiberFlex by nature is weaker. There is no mechanism for separating two things welded together without destroying both parts, but bonds tend to be strong in on direction and weaker in another...in this case peel strength is the weak link. FiberFlex is strong in sheer, strong in tension, but weak in peel. If you distribute the load over a larger area, FiberFlex is plenty strong for just about any bumper repair, the problem with a slot tab is there just isn't a whole lot of surface to work with, so that's where the mesh would make up for that.
the most important info was missing! what specification has the bumper material?? exactly! is it polyurethane?? what material sticks to polyurethane at what exact temp, in this demo? specs, please, the works! or is it a company secret? I have the hardware, just need to know the welding material, not even the specs, since it's all in the demo, practically demonstrated, when it's liquid it's ideal, when it boils and bubbles, it's too hot. thanx
This is polypropylene. About 95% of late model bumper covers are made of polypropylene. You cannot do a fusion weld with hot air or nitrogen on thermoset polyurethane because thermoset plastics do not melt. You have to use a special technique to repair it. Themoplastic urethanes can be fusion welded, but they aren't as common. If you need information about repairing thermoset polyurethane, you can view this playlist: th-cam.com/video/rUV1qpnKxlg/w-d-xo.html Repairing thermoset polyurethane is definitely not a company secret! The founder of our company created the first plastic welding kit designed to repair thermoset polyurethane in the early 1980s. Here's a video on common plastics and how to identify them: th-cam.com/video/NUYfC79r0A4/w-d-xo.html
@@polyvance wow, thank you, I didn't expect such a swift and substantial reply, it's a nice feeling to have a company be so receptive! I am really not just blowing smoke. ok, now to the facts, my specs.. I was shocked, very disappointed to find out that my bumper (2007 R-Class, lots of fond memories, I just love this car, I do all my repairs, coding, everything) is this thermoset goo, because I was all set to fuse, then I read the PUR-RIM designation on the inside of the skirt, central, next to the Mercedes part number, I thought what kind of primitive shit did I get here!! I was flipping! I knew your products for a while, I mean, you're legends out there in the business, but I wanted to stay away from gluing, because this is what it actually is, right, it's gluing, you create a concave, wide space with a very adherent surface, and then you fill it with the fused thermoplastic, those vids you linked are old already, I've known them for years, I really never thought I'd be applying the tech on my own damn bumper! question, is this solution, for PUR bumpers, really so durable, lasting and permanently elastic, what's the track record on these repairs? I couldn't find real testimonials from the other side, different perspectives, because now I'm stuck with this bumper material, I have to learn to live with it! 3M also has a solution similar to yours, well, not that similar, I think, but the basics go in the same direction. I was going to try everything out and test the living crap out of it, compare, you know.. on a sacrificial bumper or something. I don't think I have the time, I'd have to expose the repair surface to weather/temp differences, mechanical stresses, I don't think my curiosity will prevail here, because I lack the time and I'd have to buy everything for the sole purpose of this test. it would be epic though, I'm a depraved perfectionist, if I say I would, I really will test the crap out of it! the water molecule is an insidious little bastard, if you let it, it'll creep everywhere, in all its 3 states! I was looking for the 2k flex filler, it's sold out everywhere, has been for a while.. or can't be shipped abroad. I don't live in the States, I should mention that.. I have to repair several cracks in this bumper, I have a spare bumper as well, also in need for repair, same polyurethane crap! it's made in the US, practically the whole car is made in the US/MX, is PUR cheaper to manufacture? why did they have to do this to me?!?! I second what the guy below my comment noted! second the outrage, too! and then some! bastards! mercedes, for f's sake, they could have done better, in that generation, I mean, late 2000s, cmon!
@@darealpython Thanks for the kind words! Yeah, the thermoset PUR is used as a hot-melt adhesive. It's a similar process to brazing. But because the PUR is thermoset, it can't be melted and it has to be repaired with an adhesive process. Other companies make some two-part adhesives that are supposed to work on urethane, but we can't vouch for how well they work. Our FiberFlex welding rod also sticks to urethane. It's also applied as a hot-melt adhesive. I'd recommend using the thermoplastic PUR welding rod repair method. We've been doing these types of repairs for about 40 years, and we've always had good results. It sounds like you'll be doing your research on the best products and methods to repair this car you love. We wish you the best of luck!
@@darealpython They still use urethane because making a mold for a urethane bumper is far less expensive than making one for a PP bumper. So on lower production cars, the higher cost of the raw urethane material is more than offset by the low cost of the bumper mold. ITs still good stuff, its just not as easily repaired as a PP bumper. If I were you, I would look at Polyvance's 5210 230V Fiberflex Kit (if you are in Europe) or the 5210 (if you're in North America or where 120V power is used). While it won't make a true weld, it will make a good repair and has excellent flexibility when done. It will not be as strong as a weld in a PP bumper in terms of peel strength, but that is not a stress your repair will ever see unless you hit something. But it will flex with the bumper and not pop off like a lot of adhesives will. Be sure to use an adhesion promoter over the repair before filling and again before painting and paint adhesion will be great too.
Wish I had seen this before drilling my bumper with self tapping screw. So even if I do it now my bumper will have the holes and thats a whole other job.
Hoping @Scott B chimes in on this comment. Plastic welding is a very good repair and also a certified repair in the collision business. I have had my plastic welder for since first invented 30 years ago and used it with much success once the type of plastic has been identified. However with the advancement in adhesives this repair can be done faster, cheaper and has all most the same outcome. 3M has an adhesive that requires virtually no tools or the expense that accompanies the welding process. It is also a certified repair for the collision industry for exactly the type of repairs that are being demonstrating here. In the old days people use to use fiberglass repair patches and/or epoxy's. Those of course will ultimately fail down the road but it can have some limited success, especially the fiberglass technique if only needed for cosmetic and not structural repair. But what about a one part adhesive as in 3M's product? Polyvance or @Scott B what say you? Thanks.
61 - Most of what you say is accurate. You are right about the fiberglass repair of old, which worked OK on urethane, but not for all that long. However with newer polypropylene bumpers, as far as an adhesive repair being faster and cheaper, that is completely wrong. If you screw a mixing tip on an adhesive tube, you've already spent more than you would have on filler rod making a weld. With welding, the prep takes essentially the same amount of time or less than that for an adhesive repair because the area you need to prep is smaller for a weld. The time to apply adhesive compared to filler rod is generally faster, but the problem then lies with cure time. As soon as a weld hardens, you can sand it, adhesives take a minimum of 5 minutes, but most are 20 to 30 minutes before they are strong enough to handle and sand. Both require some filler after the repair, so that's a wash. Strength wise, welding is still a slam dunk. Even with the advances in adhesives, if you flex an an adhesive joint or try to bond a tab on with adhesive, it will only have a limited amount of strength. Its not that the adhesive is bad, it does have its uses, but polypropylene doesn't have much affinity for things being bonded to it, so like the fiberglass repairs of old on urethane, modern adhesive repairs have the same problems on polypropylene.
View this video on on our website for helpful information and product suggestions for this repair: www.polyvance.com/video/nitrogen-hot-air-fusion-welding/bumper-cover-repair-how-to-repair-broken-slot-tabs For a different method of repairing slot tabs, watch our video on our Bumper Pliers Kit: goo.gl/4DNFsQ The Bumper Pliers kit comes with 4 numbered pliers, 6 numbered dies, and 1 recessed hole die. The dies have different widths to fit a variety of slot tabs. The die helps prevent the welding rod from filling in the slot tab hole.
In this case yes, but for the DIYer the same thing can be done, albiet in about 10x the time using an airless welder like the MiniWeld Model 7 from Poloyvance. If you wanted to spend even less, the 5211 PolyPro welder will also do the trick.
@@Everything91111 As long as you use the correct filler rod, make the slot the original size, and the material around the slot is as thick as the original bumper then it will always snap in. This is type of repair is something body shops do routinely. The repair can be done even more quickly and easily with the use of the bumper pliers from Polyvance. www.polyvance.com/Hand-Seamer-1/6146/
Meanwhile, every body shop on planet earth will insist your bumper cover is destroyed and needs to be replaced (and, of course, painted) if a tab or slot is broken.
And the tools and equipment required to attach this will just magically appear at your front door or garage ! For you to do all this work for your repairs.........if you ask me you would be a lot better of just replacing the actual part altogether. It would be a hell of a lot cheaper and you wouldn't have to go through all that stress of the possibility of buggering it all up and having to replace the damn thing......add that to the tutorial !
This particular tutorial isn't for a DIYer. This machine is a professional plastic welder for an auto body shop to use. They would be more familiar with this type of process. However, we do have cheaper tools that DIYers can use.
I am more than impressed with the pull test. Unbelievable that it can be so strong! Great methods and great products.
Thank you!
Awesome repair for high end restorations. For an easy, strong and quick fix that won't have to be repainted I liked to take a piece of stainless steel mesh and just lightly melt it into the back side of the repair. Let it cool and then reattach any missing smaller cosmetic pieces on my front side. Ready for reattachment no paint no hate.
So annoying that car manufacturers design these slots with 90* corners, which is where stress fractures will almost always occur, rather than rounded ends. Also, these are fun to watch! Always enjoy a watching someone skilled at their craft show their magic.
The plastic needs to be the same material as the bumper. PP, PP+EPDM, PE, etc. If you don't use the same plastic it won't take properly and will peel off once cooled. This repair is very similar to the way I was taught over 20 years ago. One of the better repairs on youtube. Only thing I will say is be aware that while the plastic is cooling it can shrink and will pull the bumper out of shape.
It shouldn't pull the bumper out of shape enough to be noticeable. If it was heated to that point, a little too much heat was probably applied. Distortion is less of a problem with nitrogen welding than with airless welding because the duration the part was heated is much shorter than an airless weld. Even then, its not as much of an issue as with metal welding.
It should be criminal for car makers to design easily broken bumpers like this
@@epiphgd4302 Specially locks
it's cheap and convenient..
My sons dodge avenger is RIDICULOUS! the rear bumper cover all the flanges broke and where you want to feel the back of the plastic clips are inaccessible. I fkin agree with you
I would rather have a clip break than having a bumper crack.
@@ameralshaher6041 I wonder how much it is to repair / replace plastic bumper covers and chromed ones
Can you please what is this plastic rod that you use ? Like what is it called ? Where can i get it
We're using Polyvance's polypropylene welding rod. We used polypropylene welding rod because the bumper cover plastic was polypropylene. All of our R02 polypropylene welding rod can be found here: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
Useful information so thanks for posting. Sadly, I'm not the sort of person that would do well with this. The upside is that I now know that the damage I caused when I removed my bumper can be fixed.
I realized I have three bumpers that I need to repair this way. Definitely will be attempting it in the future as it's cheaper than three bumpers.
I'm from Philippines. Very good diy technique to repair bumper. May I know what type of plastic weld u use?
The welder is one of our nitrogen plastic welders (meant for use in a collision repair shop) and this particular plastic welding rod was polypropylene.
R02-01-03-NT Polypropylene
This video is so well made, ive never seen this before and i am extremely fascinated, i would even be compelled to try this at home and be effective thanks to these comprehensive instructions!
i know this is a few years old but thanks for making this video!
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! We've got other videos aimed more toward at-home DIYers versus these nitrogen plastic welding videos that are aimed more toward body shops. Have a look around :)
best way to repair bumper covers and headlight housings, hot air and polyvance strips
Lol I just jb welded it on the tab slots works really good and it was only 6 bucks not even messy
love the low volume metal in the background. sets the mood.
Excellent video straight to the point.
Thank you!
Who has all these uncommon tools to do a bumper fix... This is not for most people
You are correct. This not for most people. This video is targeted toward a collision repair professional at an auto body shop.
No clue why TH-cam would recommend this to me
I was thinking the same, on the other hand, this method will save money on a new paint job.
Use a heatgun with a narrow tube, soldering iron with a flat tip,
The tools are only uncommon if they are difficult to find or prohibitively expensive. None of the tools used are either of those.
With the exception of the hot air welder/soldering gun there was nothing special or expensive about the tools. Most people have a dermel type tool, soldering iron, clamps of different sizes and sand paper. The hot air soldering gun can be picked up on amazon for $50. Even if you have to buy a dremel, again 30-40 on amazon for an off brand. Your local hardware store will also have tools you can buy for this project for less than the links provided.
The cost of having this professionally repaired costs far more than those two thing combined. So, people’s choice. One time outlay to have a pro do it and have no tools or invest into some tools than can be used on this repair that you then own for the next project and save money in the process.
All I can say is Wow and thank you 🤣
My Ducati fairing needs this process but the tabs are very small in comparison to the car bumper.
Good video thanks.
do you have a video to install the slot clips?
No, we do not.
Excellent, just what I was looking for.
Thanks for watching!
Oddly satisfying.. Such great need to know info 😊👍
Thanks for watching!
I really needed this
really satisfying to watch. I bet if I tried it I'd blow holes in the plastic. :)
Great ❤
Can you put a link to buy this tools please
Greatings from Bosnia
Here is a link to the products used. www.polyvance.com/video/nitrogen-hot-air-fusion-welding/bumper-cover-repair-how-to-repair-broken-slot-tabs
maybe a stupid question but is there a difference in the performance of the rod material and whats in your opinion the universal for the car bumpers I have 3 cars that really can use this
The main thing for fusion welding is that the rod needs to match the plastic type. However, the FiberFlex rod uses a different technique - it isn't a fusion weld. The FiberFlex work great on PP and TPO.
What kind of equipment do you have and what kind of damage do you have?
You can give us a call and speak with a tech for more detailed help if you would like.
Great video on repairs .Sure its tricky but its compensating in the finish and low cost outlay for the tools
Great way to fix a tab ,but this is definitely not for a home type of repair due to cost of the equpiment needed alone sadly.
The same repair can also be done for about $70 using the 5211 Polypro airless welder. Just weld over the entire area, then re-cut the slot with a dremel tool and sand to the original thickness It takes A LOT longer, but it will get the job done for the DIYer who doesn't want to replace and repaint the bumper.
Where do you get the material to weld this and have it match the bumper?
We manufacture plastic welding rods. We currently have 22 different material types to match a wide variety of plastics!
www.polyvance.com/Welding-Rod-List/
Thanks a lot!!!! Simple think that help TOOOOOO MUCHH!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Great instructions Thank you so much you are my angel!
Thanks for watching!
Great repair/technique! Is that a hot air welder? Or just a hot end, Melting the rod to the bumper?
We're using one of our nitrogen plastic welders to melt the rod down. We use the integrated airless plastic welder to smooth the welding rod.
Its a nitrogen welder. Hot air could also be used, but is not quite as strong.
@@scottb7600 Hot air guns reach over 1000 F and all you need for plastic is a few hundred so a hot air gun with the proper tip should be just fine. No need for nitrogen.
@@Marcoosianism In theory yes, but most heat guns will overheat when the air is reduce to a small enough size to be able to control where youre putting the heat. Then the second issue is the volume of air is too high to effectively weld with a heat gun. It kind of like saying I only need one screwdriver for all screws. You don't, you need the right screwdriver for the right screw. You also need the right heat source for each repair.
Muy bueno todo! Me sirvieron demasiado todos tus videos! !!
Thank you!
❤❤❤🎉🎉 Gracias excelente video 👍👍
The broken one has been repaired. Might be a good idea 💡 to strengthen the rest of the tabs in the same manner as the repaired one.
That's what I did with my bumper.
I did the same process with my back window 🪟 louvre
Would the second method shown in this video be about the same to repair a circular screw tab like the one next to the tab being repaired?
yes, that should also work on a round tab. I sometimes weld completely over the area being repaired, then simply redrill the hole in the right spot.
@@scottb7600 Right on, thank you for the feedback. I'm going to try this 🤞
Impressive. Thanks.
Can you do one for the GMC Denali tow hitch cover? The tabs the extend up and into the bumper broke on mine.
I need this.. im too lazy, you’ve got a shop nearby?
Can you make a video for circular flanges?
So you can weld PP to Polyurethane?
No. You must use polyurethane welding rod.
PUR is thermoset polyurethane and cannot be fusion welded. Our R01 polyurethane rod can be melted. You must use the R01 welding rod to make an adhesive repair. You can view our thermoset polyurethane playlist for more information.
Do the tabs go on car or panel first ? Anyone??
hello
in which countries in europe do you have your distributors?
It depends on the product. email polyvance directly, with the product you are looking for and they will be able to help you.
Which rod is this i can’t find on y’all’s web site
Hi. We used polypropylene welding rods for this repair (because the bumper cover was polypropylene).
You can find all our polypropylene rods here: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
Nice job
Some of those repairs I just melt a metal screen strip into the plastic for quicker repair.
Comment appelle t on le plastique que vous utilisez?
The filler rod we are using is our R02 polypropylene welding rod. We used polypropylene because the bumper cover we were working on was polypropylene. www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
What if you are missing half the slot tab and need more than just a tab repair? I would like to hot weld the same material but if I need to recreate over half the tab am I going to need to use epoxy instead?
Just to be clear, forget epoxy on anything made of polypropylene for any structural repair, it will not work. Are you missing the flange the slot tab goes in? I mean, if you are missing the edge of the slot tab, just shape it out of melted PP and then trim it to shape like in the video. If you are missing a large piece of the flange itself, you can sometimes build one out of a thin sheet of PP, like those sold by polyvance and manually cut the slots in in the appropriate places. This would be a more difficult repair and if you are doing this in a shop (for profit), depending on the cost of a new bumper, may relegate it to the scrap pile unless you have another similar bumper you can scab the flange in from.
@@scottb7600 I'm missing a large piece of the flange itself. I have some scrap PP that I can make a template of and try to cut in the slots. This is personal - not for profit in a shop so I can take my time and try to salvage the bumper. If I was charging by the hour I would already be on to a new bumper by now
@@76rmyers Good deal. Check that piece to see if its about the same thickness as the original flange, if it is not, you may need to sand it down before trying to weld it in place in order to make it snap into the body clips. But doing what you describe will be worth the effort, I think and is definitely "doable."
Alguien sabe cómo se llama esa barra que utiliza para hacer las piezas y dónde se consigue en Colombia????
Se utilizaron dos productos para la reparación y se pueden comprar contactando a info@Polyvance.com Polyvance puede realizar envíos a todo el mundo. Los números de pieza son: R02-01-03-NT y R02-04-03-NT
What rod u use??
Because the bumper cover was made of polypropylene, we used polypropylene welding rod. www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
so what exact welding rods were used here? thanks
R02 polypropylene welding rod (www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/). We used the round rod and a ribbon that we cut to make more narrow.
Amazing!
Thanks for watching!
What is the white strip?
Our R02 polypropylene welding rod: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
(We used polypropylene filler rod because the bumper cover was polypropylene. It's important that the filler rod matches the base material).
Can you use a heat gun instead of the nitrogen welder? It'll be harder to concentrate the heat to one area, but seems like you'd melt the rods just the same.
They will melt, but so will the surrounding area and you'll end up with a distorted mess if you don't end up with a big hole.
Search amazon for "hot air rework station". You can set the exact temperature, volume of air, and use one of the narrow tips that comes with it. I got one for 50$.
@@aromaticpillow what temperature is best??
@@efrainsanchez1999 Depends on the plastic. Each type of plastic has its ideal melting temperature. Usually between 250 and 500 Farenheit is a good range to be able to heat to.
What is the strong adhesive your using that will be strong enough to hold it up without snapping ?
It's not an adhesive. It's a welding rod that matches the plastic we are repairing (we would use a polypropylene welding rod on a polypropylene bumper). That's why it is so strong. When you fusion weld, you are fusing the new plastic with the base plastic. It becomes one piece again.
Great video thanks
Thanks for watching!
Whats the name of the material you use?
Polypropylene welding rod: www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
anyways to fix the tabs without welding?
No.
Thank you
what should we do in case of whole grip broken - make a video
Muito bom seus vídeos parabéns pelo seu trabalho
Thank you!
Cool, inspiratif for me. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Very good, but I dont have that tools
Ugh.. yeah, I need to hire you to do mine, please!
Thanks mate very helpful
No problem!
what kind of welding plastic rod
This bumper was made of polypropylene, so we used our R02 welding rod.
www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
What is the brand of ribbon used?
Hi Leair! We used our brand of Polypropylene welding ribbon. You can find it at the link below:
www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/R02-04-03-NT/
Thanks for saving me $500
I wonder how many ppl carry all these tools?
Body shops
What is the material of this bumper?
Polypropylene
@@polyvance Thanks
@@Sam-to1zg You're welcome!
What is name for bumper fitting plastic at corner
A "tab" or "flange".
Thats how it's done! Good job!!
Thanks for watching!
why remove that aluminum bar? wouldn't it be stronger if you welded it directly on the bumper?
That "bar" is just foil tape to give it some support while welding. The plastic weld is plenty strong, there is no need for additional reinforcement.
plz. what the name of the white plastic you use it??
In this video, we used our R02 polypropylene welding rod. www.polyvance.com/Polypropylene-1/
@@polyvance Nice, Lots of material for little money. I already have the mini heat gun and welding spoon. The aluminum duct tape too!
Vid is helpful i agree that the average person not privy to tools in this vid…..I think about it like this….I watch and like survivalist shows,think how they improvise off the grid doing certain things,same can be said for this
I have at home
dremel
plastic type stuff
clamps and metal strap
heatgun
I believe it would do save thing
MY OPINION
Can I use the FiberFlex rods instead?
You can, but you would want to embed some 2045W stainless steel mesh into the repair to tie the FiberFlex to the base material. Because FiberFlex doesn't make a true weld, the mesh is needed to increase the sheer strength; it's definitely doable though.
@@scottb7600 Isn't FiberFlex supposed to have a good bond because it is somewhat like "hot glue" jbut supposedly even better than hot glue.
so would it be a bit weaker if done with FiberFlex? how much bonding strength does the FiberFlex have (in PSI)?
How does FiberFlex compare to a true fusion weld that is done with the correct and compatible plastic rods?
@@lethaldriver Since a true weld with the same material the bumper is made from is just that...a weld and fiberflex is a bond which relies on surface interaction, FiberFlex by nature is weaker. There is no mechanism for separating two things welded together without destroying both parts, but bonds tend to be strong in on direction and weaker in another...in this case peel strength is the weak link. FiberFlex is strong in sheer, strong in tension, but weak in peel. If you distribute the load over a larger area, FiberFlex is plenty strong for just about any bumper repair, the problem with a slot tab is there just isn't a whole lot of surface to work with, so that's where the mesh would make up for that.
Wow! Amazing repair.
Thanks for watching!
Mine the full tabs rail went off, theres a repair for that?
Yes, polyvance makes a welding rod specifically for repairing that.
Good info. Tq
Thanks for watching!
the most important info was missing! what specification has the bumper material?? exactly! is it polyurethane?? what material sticks to polyurethane at what exact temp, in this demo? specs, please, the works! or is it a company secret? I have the hardware, just need to know the welding material, not even the specs, since it's all in the demo, practically demonstrated, when it's liquid it's ideal, when it boils and bubbles, it's too hot. thanx
This is polypropylene. About 95% of late model bumper covers are made of polypropylene.
You cannot do a fusion weld with hot air or nitrogen on thermoset polyurethane because thermoset plastics do not melt. You have to use a special technique to repair it. Themoplastic urethanes can be fusion welded, but they aren't as common. If you need information about repairing thermoset polyurethane, you can view this playlist: th-cam.com/video/rUV1qpnKxlg/w-d-xo.html
Repairing thermoset polyurethane is definitely not a company secret! The founder of our company created the first plastic welding kit designed to repair thermoset polyurethane in the early 1980s.
Here's a video on common plastics and how to identify them: th-cam.com/video/NUYfC79r0A4/w-d-xo.html
@@polyvance wow, thank you, I didn't expect such a swift and substantial reply, it's a nice feeling to have a company be so receptive! I am really not just blowing smoke. ok, now to the facts, my specs.. I was shocked, very disappointed to find out that my bumper (2007 R-Class, lots of fond memories, I just love this car, I do all my repairs, coding, everything) is this thermoset goo, because I was all set to fuse, then I read the PUR-RIM designation on the inside of the skirt, central, next to the Mercedes part number, I thought what kind of primitive shit did I get here!! I was flipping! I knew your products for a while, I mean, you're legends out there in the business, but I wanted to stay away from gluing, because this is what it actually is, right, it's gluing, you create a concave, wide space with a very adherent surface, and then you fill it with the fused thermoplastic, those vids you linked are old already, I've known them for years, I really never thought I'd be applying the tech on my own damn bumper! question, is this solution, for PUR bumpers, really so durable, lasting and permanently elastic, what's the track record on these repairs? I couldn't find real testimonials from the other side, different perspectives, because now I'm stuck with this bumper material, I have to learn to live with it! 3M also has a solution similar to yours, well, not that similar, I think, but the basics go in the same direction. I was going to try everything out and test the living crap out of it, compare, you know.. on a sacrificial bumper or something. I don't think I have the time, I'd have to expose the repair surface to weather/temp differences, mechanical stresses, I don't think my curiosity will prevail here, because I lack the time and I'd have to buy everything for the sole purpose of this test. it would be epic though, I'm a depraved perfectionist, if I say I would, I really will test the crap out of it! the water molecule is an insidious little bastard, if you let it, it'll creep everywhere, in all its 3 states! I was looking for the 2k flex filler, it's sold out everywhere, has been for a while.. or can't be shipped abroad. I don't live in the States, I should mention that.. I have to repair several cracks in this bumper, I have a spare bumper as well, also in need for repair, same polyurethane crap! it's made in the US, practically the whole car is made in the US/MX, is PUR cheaper to manufacture? why did they have to do this to me?!?! I second what the guy below my comment noted! second the outrage, too! and then some! bastards! mercedes, for f's sake, they could have done better, in that generation, I mean, late 2000s, cmon!
@@darealpython Thanks for the kind words!
Yeah, the thermoset PUR is used as a hot-melt adhesive. It's a similar process to brazing. But because the PUR is thermoset, it can't be melted and it has to be repaired with an adhesive process. Other companies make some two-part adhesives that are supposed to work on urethane, but we can't vouch for how well they work. Our FiberFlex welding rod also sticks to urethane. It's also applied as a hot-melt adhesive. I'd recommend using the thermoplastic PUR welding rod repair method. We've been doing these types of repairs for about 40 years, and we've always had good results. It sounds like you'll be doing your research on the best products and methods to repair this car you love. We wish you the best of luck!
@@darealpython They still use urethane because making a mold for a urethane bumper is far less expensive than making one for a PP bumper. So on lower production cars, the higher cost of the raw urethane material is more than offset by the low cost of the bumper mold. ITs still good stuff, its just not as easily repaired as a PP bumper. If I were you, I would look at Polyvance's 5210 230V Fiberflex Kit (if you are in Europe) or the 5210 (if you're in North America or where 120V power is used). While it won't make a true weld, it will make a good repair and has excellent flexibility when done. It will not be as strong as a weld in a PP bumper in terms of peel strength, but that is not a stress your repair will ever see unless you hit something. But it will flex with the bumper and not pop off like a lot of adhesives will. Be sure to use an adhesion promoter over the repair before filling and again before painting and paint adhesion will be great too.
Wish I had seen this before drilling my bumper with self tapping screw. So even if I do it now my bumper will have the holes and thats a whole other job.
Filling screw holes is very, very easy.
undoubtedly....cool work
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Awesome intro!
I just use cheap Harbor Freight epoxy, paper and baking soda to strengthen broken tabs. It’ll be solid as a rock
hey bro can you explain more?
Hoping @Scott B chimes in on this comment. Plastic welding is a very good repair and also a certified repair in the collision business. I have had my plastic welder for since first invented 30 years ago and used it with much success once the type of plastic has been identified. However with the advancement in adhesives this repair can be done faster, cheaper and has all most the same outcome. 3M has an adhesive that requires virtually no tools or the expense that accompanies the welding process. It is also a certified repair for the collision industry for exactly the type of repairs that are being demonstrating here. In the old days people use to use fiberglass repair patches and/or epoxy's. Those of course will ultimately fail down the road but it can have some limited success, especially the fiberglass technique if only needed for cosmetic and not structural repair. But what about a one part adhesive as in 3M's product? Polyvance or @Scott B what say you? Thanks.
61 - Most of what you say is accurate. You are right about the fiberglass repair of old, which worked OK on urethane, but not for all that long. However with newer polypropylene bumpers, as far as an adhesive repair being faster and cheaper, that is completely wrong. If you screw a mixing tip on an adhesive tube, you've already spent more than you would have on filler rod making a weld. With welding, the prep takes essentially the same amount of time or less than that for an adhesive repair because the area you need to prep is smaller for a weld. The time to apply adhesive compared to filler rod is generally faster, but the problem then lies with cure time. As soon as a weld hardens, you can sand it, adhesives take a minimum of 5 minutes, but most are 20 to 30 minutes before they are strong enough to handle and sand. Both require some filler after the repair, so that's a wash. Strength wise, welding is still a slam dunk. Even with the advances in adhesives, if you flex an an adhesive joint or try to bond a tab on with adhesive, it will only have a limited amount of strength. Its not that the adhesive is bad, it does have its uses, but polypropylene doesn't have much affinity for things being bonded to it, so like the fiberglass repairs of old on urethane, modern adhesive repairs have the same problems on polypropylene.
View this video on on our website for helpful information and product suggestions for this repair: www.polyvance.com/video/nitrogen-hot-air-fusion-welding/bumper-cover-repair-how-to-repair-broken-slot-tabs
For a different method of repairing slot tabs, watch our video on our Bumper Pliers Kit: goo.gl/4DNFsQ
The Bumper Pliers kit comes with 4 numbered pliers, 6 numbered dies, and 1 recessed hole die. The dies have different widths to fit a variety of slot tabs. The die helps prevent the welding rod from filling in the slot tab hole.
The first look better i think!
this is for a shop to do, not the regular joe at home.
In this case yes, but for the DIYer the same thing can be done, albiet in about 10x the time using an airless welder like the MiniWeld Model 7 from Poloyvance. If you wanted to spend even less, the 5211 PolyPro welder will also do the trick.
انا من المغرب انا في نفس الحرفة لحام بلاستيك
Thanks for watching!
this is too awesome ,im gonna let it pass
You can repair with iron sheet and epoxy or heat
It must be reinstalled, will it work ?!
Yes!
@@scottb7600
Video should reinstall after repair, to ensure that it is working properly
@@Everything91111 As long as you use the correct filler rod, make the slot the original size, and the material around the slot is as thick as the original bumper then it will always snap in. This is type of repair is something body shops do routinely. The repair can be done even more quickly and easily with the use of the bumper pliers from Polyvance. www.polyvance.com/Hand-Seamer-1/6146/
great
nice
Thank you!
Nice
Thanks for watching!
En español x favor
Hell JB weld putty would’ve fixed that without doing all that.
Meanwhile, every body shop on planet earth will insist your bumper cover is destroyed and needs to be replaced (and, of course, painted) if a tab or slot is broken.
This was true 5 years ago, but this is rapidly changing and just about any body shop with a plastic welder will happily weld the tab for you.
recently my bumper has had some damage and I hope they are able to fix it , in the way shown in the video@@scottb7600
I just used jb weld 🤷♀️
This has been brought up at least a dozen times... JB weld does not stick to polypropylene....
He said slot, rod and stiffer with emphasis. I guess I need to buy a hot iron rod
A screw and a washer takes about a minute.
And the tools and equipment required to attach this will just magically appear at your front door or garage !
For you to do all this work for your repairs.........if you ask me you would be a lot better of just replacing the actual part altogether.
It would be a hell of a lot cheaper and you wouldn't have to go through all that stress of the possibility of buggering it all up and having to replace the damn thing......add that to the tutorial !
This particular tutorial isn't for a DIYer. This machine is a professional plastic welder for an auto body shop to use. They would be more familiar with this type of process.
However, we do have cheaper tools that DIYers can use.
Dam I thought I had invented this