I love how your videos always get straight to the point. Great explanation and listing out the general option as skaters tend to nitpick on how their setup is. The soap trick is something I never heard of and would definitely try it. Keep up the good work
Now I know what the funny looking end is on the other end of the Phillips bit for my skate tool. It's a bit to fit the other type screw head that I didn't even know about. I'm always learning something new by keeping up with this channel.
I had no idea something as simple as hardware could be that complex. And yet again you've delivered it in such a way that it was easy to understand. Good job !
the button style hardware is good for softer wood too, like bamboo or decks with lots of flexs, with inserted heads you run the risk of damaging and cracking the soft wood
Thanks for this video, helped me out a lot in creating a custom board mount and i needed to know screw threads and other info. Once i have a few working prototypes ill be happy to send you some fresh off my 3d printer! Thanks again!
Now I understand why Swelltech used the 7 bolt pattern; for strength. I have to do a minor tune up every 2 days on my surfskate using the Waterborne surf adapter, every bolt has to be tightened and every kingpin has to be adjusted( including the rail to rail adapter) no matter what. The bushings are starting to squeal now after a bit more than 3weeks. I'd love to see some video for maintenance of the Waterborne high performance surfskate conversion kit and rebuild tutorials and tutorials for aftermarket bushings for trucks for surfskate use. Are there aftermarket bushings for the Waterborne Rail to Rail adapter? I believe that there is a rebuild kit on the website for the front.
I missed Pitch dimension. I recently had bolts strip and lock up as the bolt thread didnt match the nut thread... really hate this. Was hoping M5 would be universal.
The nylock will present some resistance. That's ok. The function of that nylon ring is to prevent the nut from getting loose while riding (vibrations). You should tighten the nut and always have some bolt thread coming out from it
The measuring tape in the video shows the deck to be 1/4". I've never had a 1/2" thick deck in my life. That's almost 40 years of sk8ing. .. Except for one time me and my buddy made a deck out of plywood. Also Shortys hardware are about half the size of regular hardware nuts. So 1/8. That's 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/8 . So that's 1/2" hardware? Where done find that? I feel like shortys hardware back in the day (90's) had perfect hardware. I'm about to try them again after getting the wrong size like 4 times from the sk8 shop. They kept promising me it was 7/8 but it still sticks up.like it's 1". They're probably just ripping me off. What I really miss is bridge boltz - Grind King and if anyone has some, I'd pay coin for it! I'm trying to replicate my first set up. Not too sure about the gull wing trucks but maybe just for fun. Lol 😂
Can you make a video about trucks ? Is 50 degree always ok ? for Loaded icarus? I want to get following setu: LOADED ICARUS deck, PARIS TRUCKS V3 180MM 50°, ORANGATANG CAGUAMA 85MM 83A , BEAR SPACEBALLS BEARINGS. I don't know If I will feel a difference with eg. 40 degree trucks. It's my first longboard after 20 yrs of break ... Thanks in advance ;)
You shouldn't use difference materials for the bolt & nut. That means definitely not stainless steel and a zinc coating mix. It'll definitely cause corrosion and will lock things up. Use the same type of metal always.
Appreciate the insight. I'm in the process of cutting out the section in this video where I mention mixing stainless and zinc. I'm also going to add a disclaimer about mixing in our website article. Thank you
@@concrete-waves Since zinc plating makes it galvanised it makes it extra reactive too. Thanks for the reply by the way! I love your content and how in depth you go :)
Sometimes stainless can lock upa bit, but I have never had a problem with getting the nuts off, a micro blast of penetrating oil works wonders if there is a problem...Thank you love you :)
Son, you're wrong on the stainless steel being soft and galling. It's quite the opposite. Stainless is a very durable alloy and is, in many cases, harder than your truck's base plate material and that is where the problems starts. Bolts and Nylock nuts, no matter how much you reef on em to get em tight, they will invariably loosen up and when things get sloppy, those stainless, hard as Hell bolts will tend to start sawing through your truck's baseplate and your deck with the threads so stay on top a keepin your hardware tighter than a clam's ass at high tide! And my knowledge on the subject comes from riding skateboards since the late 60s and being a marine diesel engineer/mechanic who, after 40 years, recently retired from the trade but I'm still building skateboards. Them and BMX Pro Class Cruisers, I'll never give em up.
Thanks for commenting this. I'm in the process of cutting out the section where I mention mixing stainless steel bolt with zinc plated nut. I'll make sure to add a disclaimer to our website article as well.
I read the article already lol. Wish you were bigger so I wouldn't have to tell everybody who you are lol. Also there's weird bridge bolt clones on Amazon I use that you should try. If I find them again I'll drop a link.
So if I bought these bolts and nuts🔩 from a hardware store it would be just as good as from a skateshop? Just not brandname skateware or fancy looking.
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how your videos always get straight to the point. Great explanation and listing out the general option as skaters tend to nitpick on how their setup is. The soap trick is something I never heard of and would definitely try it. Keep up the good work
haha, I aready read the article before the vid came out! nice job man, I love your work!
Appreciate that bro! Thanks for all the support
Now I know what the funny looking end is on the other end of the Phillips bit for my skate tool. It's a bit to fit the other type screw head that I didn't even know about. I'm always learning something new by keeping up with this channel.
Yup exactly! Stoked to hear that. Thanks for watching man
I had no idea something as simple as hardware could be that complex. And yet again you've delivered it in such a way that it was easy to understand. Good job !
the button style hardware is good for softer wood too, like bamboo or decks with lots of flexs, with inserted heads you run the risk of damaging and cracking the soft wood
These are the kind of vids that will continue to rack up views over the years. Good job
im definitely buying the merch
Appreciate that!
Killer video dawg
Appreciate that mannnn
I literally just got a longboard so this was helpful!!!
Nice! What board you get?
@@concrete-waves I can’t recall what the name was but it was a sector 9 bamboo complete.
@@jukic7555 Gotcha. That's awesome. Have fun!
Thanks for this video, helped me out a lot in creating a custom board mount and i needed to know screw threads and other info. Once i have a few working prototypes ill be happy to send you some fresh off my 3d printer! Thanks again!
This video in a nutshell for me:
"1inch plus risers".
That will stick in my head forever.
Thx
Top tier quality video as always!
I have griptek bolts with no screw holes how would I put them in??
Now I understand why Swelltech used the 7 bolt pattern; for strength. I have to do a minor tune up every 2 days on my surfskate using the Waterborne surf adapter, every bolt has to be tightened and every kingpin has to be adjusted( including the rail to rail adapter) no matter what. The bushings are starting to squeal now after a bit more than 3weeks.
I'd love to see some video for maintenance of the Waterborne high performance surfskate conversion kit and rebuild tutorials and tutorials for aftermarket bushings for trucks for surfskate use. Are there aftermarket bushings for the Waterborne Rail to Rail adapter? I believe that there is a rebuild kit on the website for the front.
I missed Pitch dimension. I recently had bolts strip and lock up as the bolt thread didnt match the nut thread... really hate this. Was hoping M5 would be universal.
also no problem with button heads for
ollies and all of the freestyle tricks
Can u make like the same video, but about kingpins sizes?
My brother and I would ALWAYS strip our Phillips head hardware as kids 🤣
Haha right there with ya. I used to do it all the time 😂
So the nylon ring is guess its called. It stops me from tightening it all the way. Is it meant to be be broken.
The nylock will present some resistance. That's ok. The function of that nylon ring is to prevent the nut from getting loose while riding (vibrations). You should tighten the nut and always have some bolt thread coming out from it
When's the Tan Tien video coming out. I'm really interested to hear your take on it. Also, are surf skate trucks any good on a drop thru deck?
Damn, this video was very helpful and the hoodies are lit.
How about a guide on skateboard/longboard trucks
The measuring tape in the video shows the deck to be 1/4". I've never had a 1/2" thick deck in my life. That's almost 40 years of sk8ing. .. Except for one time me and my buddy made a deck out of plywood.
Also Shortys hardware are about half the size of regular hardware nuts. So 1/8.
That's 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/8 . So that's 1/2" hardware? Where done find that?
I feel like shortys hardware back in the day (90's) had perfect hardware. I'm about to try them again after getting the wrong size like 4 times from the sk8 shop. They kept promising me it was 7/8 but it still sticks up.like it's 1". They're probably just ripping me off.
What I really miss is bridge boltz - Grind King and if anyone has some, I'd pay coin for it! I'm trying to replicate my first set up. Not too sure about the gull wing trucks but maybe just for fun. Lol 😂
Can you make a video about trucks ? Is 50 degree always ok ? for Loaded icarus? I want to get following setu:
LOADED ICARUS deck,
PARIS TRUCKS V3 180MM 50°,
ORANGATANG CAGUAMA 85MM 83A ,
BEAR SPACEBALLS BEARINGS.
I don't know If I will feel a difference with eg. 40 degree trucks. It's my first longboard after 20 yrs of break ...
Thanks in advance ;)
ok I think I've found it ! th-cam.com/video/c-pbTjxqGUY/w-d-xo.html :D - correct me if I'm wrong
Is the screw 3m or 4m?
*Nice to see a video about skate hardware!*
⚡🤙🏼⚡
Thanks for watching and dropping a comment man. I appreciate it!
@@concrete-waves Would love to see an esk8 focussed version of this. esk8 trucks, bushings, etc
You shouldn't use difference materials for the bolt & nut. That means definitely not stainless steel and a zinc coating mix. It'll definitely cause corrosion and will lock things up. Use the same type of metal always.
Appreciate the insight. I'm in the process of cutting out the section in this video where I mention mixing stainless and zinc. I'm also going to add a disclaimer about mixing in our website article. Thank you
@@concrete-waves Since zinc plating makes it galvanised it makes it extra reactive too. Thanks for the reply by the way! I love your content and how in depth you go :)
Sometimes stainless can lock upa bit, but I have never had a problem with getting the nuts off, a micro blast of penetrating oil works wonders if there is a problem...Thank you love you :)
Thanks for the insight! I appreciate that
Son, you're wrong on the stainless steel being soft and galling. It's quite the opposite. Stainless is a very durable alloy and is, in many cases, harder than your truck's base plate material and that is where the problems starts. Bolts and Nylock nuts, no matter how much you reef on em to get em tight, they will invariably loosen up and when things get sloppy, those stainless, hard as Hell bolts will tend to start sawing through your truck's baseplate and your deck with the threads so stay on top a keepin your hardware tighter than a clam's ass at high tide! And my knowledge on the subject comes from riding skateboards since the late 60s and being a marine diesel engineer/mechanic who, after 40 years, recently retired from the trade but I'm still building skateboards. Them and BMX Pro Class Cruisers, I'll never give em up.
You should always pick the same metal for your nuts and bolts. Otherwise there will be an electrochemical process causing corrosion.
Thanks for commenting this. I'm in the process of cutting out the section where I mention mixing stainless steel bolt with zinc plated nut. I'll make sure to add a disclaimer to our website article as well.
Awesome :)
I read the article already lol. Wish you were bigger so I wouldn't have to tell everybody who you are lol.
Also there's weird bridge bolt clones on Amazon I use that you should try. If I find them again I'll drop a link.
ayyy appreciate that bro!
nah dont get amazon stuff. go to a shop like muir and get the real deal such as roger bros bolts
So if I bought these bolts and nuts🔩 from a hardware store it would be just as good as from a skateshop?
Just not brandname skateware or fancy looking.
Use soap and have it wear off after a month. OR do the big boy thing and buy stainless anti seize for $5.
All the CARVER hardware on their completes is stainless steel...
Imperial system is the most annoying thing ever. 10/32 of an inch. 7/8 of an inch. 1/4 of an inch.... just use fucking millimeter 🤦🏻♂️
Early
Appreciate you showing up early and dropping a comment. Thanks for watching!
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