to remove stickers, use hair dryer. glue melts in seconds. works on license plates and lots more. best use for that blower since I began buzz cutting 20 years back
I have a Tops Silent Hero, I stored it covered in mineral oil and kept in a tool box with a rubber seal with three large silica gel bags. Rust came through the coating in several spots. I tried removing the rust with vinegar and accidentally stripped all the coating off. I then used hot vinegar to force a patina and haven’t had rust issues since. I need to mention that Tops customer service was excellent and they offered to sort the coating for free. I was very impressed with them but decided not to send it back as posting from the UK was going to be a pain.
just for posterity purposes and general knowledge gathering, the secondary smaller edge leading to the point on a tanto is called the kissaki while the grindline separating the 2 different cutting edges is called the yokote
For me, to prevent rust on my blades, I use lip balm in the field and at home. Very small foot print in pocket or pack. Can use it on your lips too. Ha.
It's only 36 bucks so it's understandable, but the steel sucks. 7cr17mov is a very bad steel. Though the axis lock and the G10 kinda make up for it. Though the CJRB Feldspar (or any CJRB or Civivi) is d2 and micarta or g10, and it's about the same price. But you're missing out on the axis lock, which honestly isn't a super big deal.
I second the Sumo recommendation, true it isn't the greatest steel or greatest action, but you don't have any other lock bar style knifes it is a good starting point to see if you like them at all. Also it is big and the fidget factor is pretty good. Don't waste your time on the other Gerber offering, the highbrow. The action is sloppy and being an assisted opening is so so, and not fidget friendly.
Thank you for addressing my question. I will look into the mineral oil and beeswax candle food safe options in your store. I'm thinking about soaking cottonballs or something kept in an old pill bottle for wiping down the edge in the field. Which could also be used for easy fire tender in a pinch.
I like the scraper feature the tanto blade inherently has. I've used it many times in lieu of having a razor blade handy. Also gives you some extra reach to remove those DMV stickers from your windshield.
Another idea for the series is stropping basics. After a certain point of buying quality knives you don't need to reprofile them as often. Got a lansky and some tormek paste.. but freehanding on a strop?.. how far can you push it before you affect your bevel geometry with abrasive pastes.?
Depends on how much you are stropping, what steel the blade is, and any other factors. If performance starts to suffer, and only you will be able to determine when that happens, that is when I would lower my angle and start with sandpaper on the strop to thin the edge back out.
I've long been a fan of the Kabar Dozier-designed folders; I've handed out handfuls of them to people ("you don't have a knife? You must! here...") over the years. But now I'm all-in on the RAT-1. What an amazing knife (though I prefer the Dozier's lockback to the liner lock). The RAT's now king of inexpensive hard-use knives, in my eye.
I have a nice little collection....spyderco native full serration in my car, spyderco sage III (axis lock) is my main edc, an H1 benchmade in my trunk, a Sabenza that sits in my sock drawer, and....drum roll....a spyderco dragonfly with stainless handle....and man do I love that dragonfly....little vg-10 BEAST of a knife...
I love the Ontario RAT Model 1 , I have 2 of them and is my main edc knife, I also carry a old timer gunstock trapper as backup as well as a Gerber EAB
Same, have 3 RAT 1s. The black, green, & brown. Perfect size for my hands and just good balance and beater knives. The small crap some of these new companies are coming with suck. Looking at you Kizer Sheepdog.
Preventing rust on blades and cutting edges - my mind went to wax right away, but carnauba wax, not beeswax. The latter might work, but carnauba is also non-toxic and sets up much harder. Basically it's a significantly more durable temporary coating.
Mineral oil will prevent corrosion for a short time, but is not an effective long-term corrosion inhibitor. Never use olive oil, as it oxidizes into corrosive by-products over time. I use Fluid Film.
DCA I agree with you that the Gerber Sumo is the greatest knife of all time and that 7Cr17MoV is the greatest steel of all time. Well said. Almost as good as 3 Cr like Seth V said. Gerber Sumo for the win for cheap axis locks.
Going towards the first guy with cross bar style locks. One thing I would consider is the omega springs. I have had issues with all of them (except hogue) but with benchmade I can buy after market ones that last much longer. My SOG omega spring went out but there isn’t anyone making after market ones. My favorite of this style is the Spyderco Manix 2. You can find the LW model for under $100. But it used an actual spring and ball betting. Takes longer to break in for a super smooth action. But much more durable IMO
Another excellent comparison video, DCA! I might add the Kizer Mini-Sheepdog as a very high-quality sub-3" EDC. 154CM steel, very sharp out-of-box, and a "velvety" aluminum indented scale handle. It's also the first knife I've seen that come with several extra T screws and a nice cleaning cloth! Thank you.
I just got into sub 2 in non locking folders because i am moving to Japan... i got the spyderco squeak in titanium and elmax and the benchmade Aller with cigar cutter! Both amazing! Made in Italy and US
Hi. Wanted to ask about three things. 1. What are your recommendations for heavy duty outdoor fixed blades in Nairobi? (Blade length not a problem outdoors in terms of the law) 2. What are your recommendations for heavy duty folders for an office enviornment where there are a lot of chemicals and fumes? Which multitools would you recommend for the above office enviornment? Other than that I like this series and best knives per week?
I'm a big fan of old school folders, like Case knives. Can you recommend updated versions that still retain their charm and class? I see Lionsteel has some that look pretty cool.
Brand new to the knife world and trying to learn as much as possible before buying a few started knives. I often hear this type of steel will hold an edge better or this steel will last longer but I am unsure what the exact pros/cons are and how the different types stack up against each other in performance/durability. I would even appreciate just a website or company that you think does a good job of thoroughly and correctly explaining the differences. THANKS!
Knifesteelnerds.com has all you need to know. if you just want edge retention numbers, look up "knifesteelnerds catra 48" which has the results from his testing of 48 different steels. Basically you have two main characteristics in a steel. Edge retention and toughness. Generally speaking, the more toughness, the less edge retention, and vice versa. Toughness is how likely the steel is to break or chip. The steel that scored highest on the catra test (rex 121) has very poor toughness. While 8670, which scores very low, has great toughness. The ideal steel is one that has a high amount of T at a high hardness. The higher the hardness then usually the higher the ER and therefore the lower the T. Also the higher the hardness, the thinner you can get the edge without it rolling. Thinner edges are better as they allow the knife to cut better. Hope this helped, and wasn't too rambly. If you have more questions, DM @triple.stripe.knives on instagram, and I'll answer them.
Your recommendations are thoughtful and I agree with your rationale. Blade shape is a controversial thing. Tanto=Tactical? I guess. Not sure what I’m supposed to be piercing with the reinforced tip. It’s mainly marketing when it comes down to it. Like does anyone need a harpoon style blade for anything?
13:16 Stabbing! 😅 (Very robust tip, very hard to get messed up from stabbing, spine thickness all the way through to the very tip. Very robust blade shape overall, less good for normal cutting tasks though.) I prefer reverse tanto for example, it's great for cutting with the point, and you don't have to deal with a less sharp tip (as you sometimes do, when the knive has a more curved tip. But that's me. 😁
I enjoy your presentations of the cutlery you review. I am always interested in new and different cutting tool designs. However, when I see or hear the word cheap when describing anything it sounds negative. There are plenty of excellent cutting tools made that are economical and cost little to use. A Microtech Exocet is an innovative design and built using quality materials. However, for $250 it seems a bit pricey when it provides limited usefulness. Basically it is no better than a Box cutter or retracting blade Utility knife. It does look like it is more fun to play with however, as for usefulness it is not any bargain.
Price doesn't go by usefulness. Price is by the difficulty in machining and in the materials. OTFs are more complicated, and CTS-204P (AKA M390 and 20CV) is a very expensive bladesteel.
@@Triple.Stripe.Knives Thank you for your reply and explanation for the high price of precision and material cost. I didn’t expect a reply. I respect you opinion a most of all you for the reply.
Rocking this series DCA. Solid recommends. Always learning something new when I tune in. Even if I have no interest in the blade I learn something new every time. Blade geometry uses or handle ergos... Had no idea there was food safe mineral oil. Another example of how I learned it here first. My job tasks are taking me towards having a fixed blade on my bush survey vest. Fast deployment, fixed and slicy, flexible carry options.. I think I'm in "neck knife" territory. Any recommendations? First thought went to CKRT Minimalist or SOGs version. Any upgraded offerings in terms of blade steel?
The western spelling is Tonto. He was Ke-mo, Sah-bees trailmate. The trailmate was Tonto's EDC knife made by Marbles. Knife historian Mike Stewart @ BRK makes the trailmate II as an homage to Tonto. ... And now you know the rest of the story DCA ... LOL
Pull through sharpeners are definitely field expedient, but not the best thing to use long term as they remove a lot of metal and leave only a decent edge. I would start with this video: th-cam.com/video/2TycpVXEv00/w-d-xo.html And one of these sharpeners: kcoti.com/35TrRvg
I’ll comment this again because iv never seen it done on your channel, could you please do a top 10-15 or 20 best sellers/top sellers/ best edc!!! And what is your favorite bushcraft knife?! Mine is the bark river gunny in 3v steel!!
KnifeCenter just looked at the wright, it looks like a nice one might have to try it out!! What do you think of the o1 tool steel i have zero experience with it?
DCA = David C. Andersen O1 is great stuff. Modern super steels will hold an edge better, but O1 is nice and tough, easy to maintain, and importantly for a bushcraft knife, can strike a spark from naturally occurring flint, something higher alloy steels like 3V can not do.
KnifeCenter oh ok lol I’m so slow I was thinking it meant “don’t comment again” haha but sweet stuff man definitely interested in that knife now, yea my gunny is 3v gotta say tho it keeps an edge for days and not to bad to maintain!
If you want an axis lock.... Just pay the butterfly tax and buy a Benchmade. Buy once, cry once. After that, you will be glad you did. Expensive knives for edc purposes, but well worth it.
Hey DCA what do you think is a good alternative to KPL and Nano oil I've been using Marvel mystery oil air tool oil its a 10 weight like KPL but a 4oz is around $5
Tough cloth is a good product but I just use 1 of the many cleaning cloths that come with so many knives these these days & some home made sward oil. Every time I wipe down a blade with some sward oil the cloth absorbs some & you can just wipe a blade down with the oil cloth now. The lack of lefthand carry p**s me off as it’s blatant discrimination & a LOT of designers, Americans especially, only think they know what discrimination is.
The Boker looks like a nice little package opener, but $40 + for a sub 2" blade in AUS8 and nylon scales? Come on Boker, your brand doesn't carry THAT much weight.
What are your thoughts on some less widely used steels like Elmax, Sleipner, and Niolox? I know Fox, LionSteel, and DPX dabble in these steels but I don't know much else about them.
They are all good stuff. The only one I've used extensively on a personal level has been Elmax, and I found it to be very capable in the edge retention department. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a knife in any of those steels. -DCA
I put a thumbstud on my Knifecenter exclusive Archaeo double detent. So much more fidgety. Confession: I dont like the Knifecenter colors (sorry guys). So I dyed mine brown.
Just out of interest, what percentage of your business involves shipping to customers outside of the US? How do you keep across issues restrictions imposed by knife laws in those countries, or is it solely the responsibility of the buyer to comply with their local laws?
I really like these FAQ videos and have a question I haven't seen answered yet. Are there any knife manufacturers that still date their knives? I have a few Kershaws that have the date on the blade, but they have since stopped doing that. I thought it would be nice to have a knife with the date on it from the manufacturer from the year my son was born to give him as a gift later in life, but was unable to find any. I would appreciate any suggestions.
@@Triple.Stripe.Knives thank you for the suggestion. I'm not looking to spend almost a thousand dollars on a knife though. The thing I liked about when Kershaw did this is that they were readily available at a good price point. It doesn't necessarily need to be a budget knife, just affordable.
"in the field" means outside of your home, like taking the knife outdoors with you on your hikes and walks. Outdoors you don't have access to all the good cleaning, sharpening, oiling or other maintenance equipment that you have available at home, so for every conceivable issue some handy products are available that are lightweight and don't take up a lot of volume in your pack. Beating on a knife... I assume that's about batoning, Google that, It's about hitting your knife with a piece of wood to spilt another piece of wood. I don't want to watch the video again, no offence of course to DCA, love your vids please keep them coming!
I mention "in the field" because the question was specifically geared to outdoor use. As far as beating on the knife, batoning for one thing (although I don't recommend it with a folder), but I am mostly using it as a catch all term for the rough handling it might have to endure... in the field...
The BM is nice and has that AXIS Lock goodness, but the CRK has their famous precision build quality with more deliberate opening action. Both great knives in different ways.
(07:30) why would anyone be beating on a folder, it doesn't make sense why a tough carbon is used on a folder in that sense. Give me high RC supersteels on a folder anyday over toughness
Double question i bought a production civivi Damascus knife if i dip it again in acid would it ruin the blade or make the design darker? Also i have a coated carbon steel fixed blade but rust came through under the coated part how could i fix that or is it unfixable btw im in arizona so very dry here
If you want to darken the etch, you may want to use some cheap instant coffee for 5-10 minutes or as needed, not sure if it will work as well on stainless steels but it should increase the contrast.
Damascus is dipped in acid (usually Ferric chloride, available on amazon and radio shack), so you could just redip it if you want it darker. I'm not sure what to do about the rusted fixedblade, sorry
You can certainly try but you will need something like Ferric chloride like Jonathan Shaw mentioned since CIVIVI uses a stainless Damascus. Use at your own risk of course. As for the rust under the coating, the only thing you can do is strip the coating so you can get to the rust.
Question . I collect Spyderco my birthday is coming up and I'm stuck between the new canis model or changing things up and finally get a Benchmade (Osborne or similar) ?
Not sure how this really affects you. With either restrictions for a work environment or local laws, sometimes that's all one can carry. Having a small utility knife is often all you need.
3.5+ knives are too bulky & heavy. I love my 940 but that thin & light 3.3 is about my max for common carry, I’d like to grab a 945 (mini 940) as soon as they release one to match my 940.
to remove stickers, use hair dryer. glue melts in seconds. works on license plates and lots more. best use for that blower since I began buzz cutting 20 years back
I LOVE all the info and knowledge I get here; and all while I get to drool over blades. Love this channel !
I have a Tops Silent Hero, I stored it covered in mineral oil and kept in a tool box with a rubber seal with three large silica gel bags.
Rust came through the coating in several spots. I tried removing the rust with vinegar and accidentally stripped all the coating off. I then used hot vinegar to force a patina and haven’t had rust issues since. I need to mention that Tops customer service was excellent and they offered to sort the coating for free. I was very impressed with them but decided not to send it back as posting from the UK was going to be a pain.
just for posterity purposes and general knowledge gathering, the secondary smaller edge leading to the point on a tanto is called the kissaki while the grindline separating the 2 different cutting edges is called the yokote
For me, to prevent rust on my blades, I use lip balm in the field and at home. Very small foot print in pocket or pack. Can use it on your lips too. Ha.
Thank you.
Yup me too
I just use it on the sharpened edge.
For the first question, if u wanna go really cheap, I’d suggest the Gerber Sumo as well! Great cross bar lock for very inexpensive price! 🇺🇸🦅👍🏼
It's only 36 bucks so it's understandable, but the steel sucks. 7cr17mov is a very bad steel. Though the axis lock and the G10 kinda make up for it. Though the CJRB Feldspar (or any CJRB or Civivi) is d2 and micarta or g10, and it's about the same price. But you're missing out on the axis lock, which honestly isn't a super big deal.
I second the Sumo recommendation, true it isn't the greatest steel or greatest action, but you don't have any other lock bar style knifes it is a good starting point to see if you like them at all. Also it is big and the fidget factor is pretty good. Don't waste your time on the other Gerber offering, the highbrow. The action is sloppy and being an assisted opening is so so, and not fidget friendly.
yes it is mr and thx for the suggestion
i'll definetly consider the avispa
Thank you for addressing my question. I will look into the mineral oil and beeswax candle food safe options in your store. I'm thinking about soaking cottonballs or something kept in an old pill bottle for wiping down the edge in the field. Which could also be used for easy fire tender in a pinch.
I like that idea! -DCA
I like the scraper feature the tanto blade inherently has. I've used it many times in lieu of having a razor blade handy. Also gives you some extra reach to remove those DMV stickers from your windshield.
omg, thank You for answering my questions :D so cool, luvya guys ;]
A little different and very interesting. I gotta say David, you do an awesome presentation.
Thank you kindly!
It's easy: "tanto".
I hope I could help.
Another idea for the series is stropping basics. After a certain point of buying quality knives you don't need to reprofile them as often. Got a lansky and some tormek paste.. but freehanding on a strop?.. how far can you push it before you affect your bevel geometry with abrasive pastes.?
Depends on how much you are stropping, what steel the blade is, and any other factors. If performance starts to suffer, and only you will be able to determine when that happens, that is when I would lower my angle and start with sandpaper on the strop to thin the edge back out.
I've long been a fan of the Kabar Dozier-designed folders; I've handed out handfuls of them to people ("you don't have a knife? You must! here...") over the years. But now I'm all-in on the RAT-1. What an amazing knife (though I prefer the Dozier's lockback to the liner lock). The RAT's now king of inexpensive hard-use knives, in my eye.
I wish Kabar would make some upscale versions of the Mini Dozier.
@@sheltermonkey6065 I have a couple of the larger ones (4" blade) and they are BEEFY. Excellent heavy-duty knives, very hard to find now, though.
@@gyffesme There's only 3" and 2.38" versions as far as I know.
@@sheltermonkey6065 Nah. I have the thumb-hole version, but look:
www.knifecenter.com/item/KA4070/ka-bar-large-dozier-folding-hunter-with
I have a nice little collection....spyderco native full serration in my car, spyderco sage III (axis lock) is my main edc, an H1 benchmade in my trunk, a Sabenza that sits in my sock drawer, and....drum roll....a spyderco dragonfly with stainless handle....and man do I love that dragonfly....little vg-10 BEAST of a knife...
I love the Ontario RAT Model 1 , I have 2 of them and is my main edc knife, I also carry a old timer gunstock trapper as backup as well as a Gerber EAB
Same, have 3 RAT 1s. The black, green, & brown. Perfect size for my hands and just good balance and beater knives. The small crap some of these new companies are coming with suck. Looking at you Kizer Sheepdog.
Preventing rust on blades and cutting edges - my mind went to wax right away, but carnauba wax, not beeswax. The latter might work, but carnauba is also non-toxic and sets up much harder. Basically it's a significantly more durable temporary coating.
Mineral oil will prevent corrosion for a short time, but is not an effective long-term corrosion inhibitor. Never use olive oil, as it oxidizes into corrosive by-products over time. I use Fluid Film.
DCA I agree with you that the Gerber Sumo is the greatest knife of all time and that 7Cr17MoV is the greatest steel of all time. Well said. Almost as good as 3 Cr like Seth V said. Gerber Sumo for the win for cheap axis locks.
You're pronouncing it right, DC. Pronounced like the other traditional Japanese blades; wakizashi and katana.
That s35vn terminus was such a bargain on labor day,60 something bucks for a nice steel
Going towards the first guy with cross bar style locks. One thing I would consider is the omega springs. I have had issues with all of them (except hogue) but with benchmade I can buy after market ones that last much longer. My SOG omega spring went out but there isn’t anyone making after market ones. My favorite of this style is the Spyderco Manix 2. You can find the LW model for under $100. But it used an actual spring and ball betting. Takes longer to break in for a super smooth action. But much more durable IMO
The best thing about tanto blades is that they look cool
Easy to sharpen?
Not all, you have to sharpen the tip separatly
@@FullyAdamatic separate sharpenin from test of blade some say easy some say its harder. I think its more work personally. But u love tanto
Best budget folder for outdoor use is in my opinion definitely Cold Steel finnwolf. Lightweight, durable and scandi grind.
Another excellent comparison video, DCA! I might add the Kizer Mini-Sheepdog as a very high-quality sub-3" EDC. 154CM steel, very sharp out-of-box, and a "velvety" aluminum indented scale handle. It's also the first knife I've seen that come with several extra T screws and a nice cleaning cloth! Thank you.
I just got into sub 2 in non locking folders because i am moving to Japan... i got the spyderco squeak in titanium and elmax and the benchmade Aller with cigar cutter! Both amazing! Made in Italy and US
Hi. Wanted to ask about three things. 1. What are your recommendations for heavy duty outdoor fixed blades in Nairobi? (Blade length not a problem outdoors in terms of the law) 2. What are your recommendations for heavy duty folders for an office enviornment where there are a lot of chemicals and fumes? Which multitools would you recommend for the above office enviornment?
Other than that I like this series and best knives per week?
Kershaw Ember is a great little small knife
I'm a big fan of old school folders, like Case knives. Can you recommend updated versions that still retain their charm and class? I see Lionsteel has some that look pretty cool.
Look at Pena front flippers, they look traditional, but are super modern. They're expensive and hard to fins though.
Brand new to the knife world and trying to learn as much as possible before buying a few started knives. I often hear this type of steel will hold an edge better or this steel will last longer but I am unsure what the exact pros/cons are and how the different types stack up against each other in performance/durability. I would even appreciate just a website or company that you think does a good job of thoroughly and correctly explaining the differences. THANKS!
I know spyderco has a chart on their website giving steel comparisons and rough compositions to help people know the differences
@@janjimpson240 oh nice, thank you!
Knifesteelnerds.com has all you need to know. if you just want edge retention numbers, look up "knifesteelnerds catra 48" which has the results from his testing of 48 different steels.
Basically you have two main characteristics in a steel. Edge retention and toughness. Generally speaking, the more toughness, the less edge retention, and vice versa. Toughness is how likely the steel is to break or chip. The steel that scored highest on the catra test (rex 121) has very poor toughness. While 8670, which scores very low, has great toughness. The ideal steel is one that has a high amount of T at a high hardness. The higher the hardness then usually the higher the ER and therefore the lower the T. Also the higher the hardness, the thinner you can get the edge without it rolling. Thinner edges are better as they allow the knife to cut better. Hope this helped, and wasn't too rambly. If you have more questions, DM @triple.stripe.knives on instagram, and I'll answer them.
@@Triple.Stripe.Knives Thanks a lot for the great info!
Thank you, David. 😊🤗❤️👋
I would have to agree with David the SOG Terminex
Excellent presentation thank you!!
Here’s a question for you David what Case pocket knives do you recommend?
You could also just filter the website for all the cross-bar-locks and then sort by price. 🙂
Your recommendations are thoughtful and I agree with your rationale. Blade shape is a controversial thing. Tanto=Tactical? I guess. Not sure what I’m supposed to be piercing with the reinforced tip. It’s mainly marketing when it comes down to it. Like does anyone need a harpoon style blade for anything?
Ok I get paid on the 25 and I’m going to order the Archaeo so pls don’t be sold out by then
Thanks.
Thanks Dave; these are really helpful. :-)
13:16 Stabbing! 😅 (Very robust tip, very hard to get messed up from stabbing, spine thickness all the way through to the very tip. Very robust blade shape overall, less good for normal cutting tasks though.)
I prefer reverse tanto for example, it's great for cutting with the point, and you don't have to deal with a less sharp tip (as you sometimes do, when the knive has a more curved tip. But that's me. 😁
Very nice! Liking these videos
The Rat 2 as mentioned has
Try fidgeting with a cjrb recoil lock it's nearly impossible unless you pull out one of the springs
I love tanto blades for some reason... just something about it...
I enjoy your presentations of the cutlery you review. I am always interested in new and different cutting tool designs. However, when I see or hear the word cheap when describing anything it sounds negative. There are plenty of excellent cutting tools made that are economical and cost little to use. A Microtech Exocet is an innovative design and built using quality materials. However, for $250 it seems a bit pricey when it provides limited usefulness. Basically it is no better than a Box cutter or retracting blade Utility knife. It does look like it is more fun to play with however, as for usefulness it is not any bargain.
Price doesn't go by usefulness. Price is by the difficulty in machining and in the materials. OTFs are more complicated, and CTS-204P (AKA M390 and 20CV) is a very expensive bladesteel.
@@Triple.Stripe.Knives Thank you for your reply and explanation for the high price of precision and material cost. I didn’t expect a reply. I respect you opinion a most of all you for the reply.
@@gizmocarr3093 👍
The newer models of Spydercos are figid friendly however
@14:08 put that in riiiiiight before “that’s all folks”
This may be better for a dedicated video but, what are some weird/uncommon knifes that look uncomfortable but are actually really good?
Rocking this series DCA. Solid recommends. Always learning something new when I tune in. Even if I have no interest in the blade I learn something new every time. Blade geometry uses or handle ergos... Had no idea there was food safe mineral oil. Another example of how I learned it here first.
My job tasks are taking me towards having a fixed blade on my bush survey vest. Fast deployment, fixed and slicy, flexible carry options.. I think I'm in "neck knife" territory. Any recommendations? First thought went to CKRT Minimalist or SOGs version. Any upgraded offerings in terms of blade steel?
QUESTION: should I get the crkt squid or the pilar? really don't know which one to buy.
the pilar is a great choice , looks wise it'ss not for everyone but I like me.
Pilar has my vote
Pilar fits great in hand, has some material choices, customization options but price of entry is really reasonable. Comfy ergos.
Pilar for ergos
The crowd has spoken.
The western spelling is Tonto. He was Ke-mo, Sah-bees trailmate. The trailmate was Tonto's EDC knife made by Marbles. Knife historian Mike Stewart @ BRK makes the trailmate II as an homage to Tonto. ... And now you know the rest of the story DCA ... LOL
Damn, that Artisan Cutlery logo kind of looks like a swastika (the metal one on the pivot). I bet I will get weird looks with that here in Germany. 😅
Heck yeah
Any suggestions for field sharpening for beginners? What are your thoughts on pull through sharpeners?
Pull through sharpeners are definitely field expedient, but not the best thing to use long term as they remove a lot of metal and leave only a decent edge. I would start with this video: th-cam.com/video/2TycpVXEv00/w-d-xo.html
And one of these sharpeners: kcoti.com/35TrRvg
Thank you so much!
You are wrong.
Waiting for the thumbs up! Lol
Ask and ye shall receive!
David C. What about the Spyderco Manix 2 ? It come in at 98.00 on your site and its pretty fidgety:))
Indeed it is, and a very nice design.
I’ll comment this again because iv never seen it done on your channel, could you please do a top 10-15 or 20 best sellers/top sellers/ best edc!!! And what is your favorite bushcraft knife?! Mine is the bark river gunny in 3v steel!!
LT Wright GNS :) -DCA
Dca? Sorry but what’s that mean
KnifeCenter just looked at the wright, it looks like a nice one might have to try it out!!
What do you think of the o1 tool steel i have zero experience with it?
DCA = David C. Andersen
O1 is great stuff. Modern super steels will hold an edge better, but O1 is nice and tough, easy to maintain, and importantly for a bushcraft knife, can strike a spark from naturally occurring flint, something higher alloy steels like 3V can not do.
KnifeCenter oh ok lol I’m so slow I was thinking it meant “don’t comment again” haha but sweet stuff man definitely interested in that knife now, yea my gunny is 3v gotta say tho it keeps an edge for days and not to bad to maintain!
there any quality 2" blade axis lock knives?
One thing that TH-cam doesn't show much is blade play in OTF knives. What is the play like in this one?
There is some but not a ton, which is inherent to every OTF out there (other than the G&G Hawk Deadlock).
If you want an axis lock.... Just pay the butterfly tax and buy a Benchmade. Buy once, cry once. After that, you will be glad you did. Expensive knives for edc purposes, but well worth it.
Hey DCA what do you think is a good alternative to KPL and Nano oil I've been using Marvel mystery oil air tool oil its a 10 weight like KPL but a 4oz is around $5
Tough cloth is a good product but I just use 1 of the many cleaning cloths that come with so many knives these these days & some home made sward oil. Every time I wipe down a blade with some sward oil the cloth absorbs some & you can just wipe a blade down with the oil cloth now.
The lack of lefthand carry p**s me off as it’s blatant discrimination & a LOT of designers, Americans especially, only think they know what discrimination is.
The Boker looks like a nice little package opener, but $40 + for a sub 2" blade in AUS8 and nylon scales? Come on Boker, your brand doesn't carry THAT much weight.
"It is a nice tin for some other things..." LOL
What are your thoughts on some less widely used steels like Elmax, Sleipner, and Niolox? I know Fox, LionSteel, and DPX dabble in these steels but I don't know much else about them.
They are all good stuff. The only one I've used extensively on a personal level has been Elmax, and I found it to be very capable in the edge retention department. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a knife in any of those steels. -DCA
I put a thumbstud on my Knifecenter exclusive Archaeo double detent. So much more fidgety. Confession: I dont like the Knifecenter colors (sorry guys). So I dyed mine brown.
"Larger than average hands" t-shirts?
I wonder what “other things” could be put in that tin. Hmm...
Just out of interest, what percentage of your business involves shipping to customers outside of the US? How do you keep across issues restrictions imposed by knife laws in those countries, or is it solely the responsibility of the buyer to comply with their local laws?
There are certain countries we can not ship certain items to, but ultimately the buyer must be responsible for knowing what they can and can't carry.
I really like these FAQ videos and have a question I haven't seen answered yet. Are there any knife manufacturers that still date their knives? I have a few Kershaws that have the date on the blade, but they have since stopped doing that. I thought it would be nice to have a knife with the date on it from the manufacturer from the year my son was born to give him as a gift later in life, but was unable to find any. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Grimsmo date their knives, and I'm sure a lot of custom makers would do it for you.
@@Triple.Stripe.Knives thank you for the suggestion. I'm not looking to spend almost a thousand dollars on a knife though. The thing I liked about when Kershaw did this is that they were readily available at a good price point. It doesn't necessarily need to be a budget knife, just affordable.
@@091580PAL Yeah they're pretty spendy, really nice though.
Yeah, most affordable production companies don't. Not budget, but Chris Reeve Knives always have a "birthdate" card enclosed.
Pardon my ignorance, but I thought mineral oil is also used a form of laxative so wouldn't it cause u to shit yourself if u use it for food prep?
Only if you are guzzling the stuff... so don't do that :P
How does someone beat on a knife in a feild? And why do you presume everybody hangs out in a feild ? You mentioned it multiple times.
"in the field" means outside of your home, like taking the knife outdoors with you on your hikes and walks. Outdoors you don't have access to all the good cleaning, sharpening, oiling or other maintenance equipment that you have available at home, so for every conceivable issue some handy products are available that are lightweight and don't take up a lot of volume in your pack.
Beating on a knife... I assume that's about batoning, Google that, It's about hitting your knife with a piece of wood to spilt another piece of wood. I don't want to watch the video again, no offence of course to DCA, love your vids please keep them coming!
I mention "in the field" because the question was specifically geared to outdoor use. As far as beating on the knife, batoning for one thing (although I don't recommend it with a folder), but I am mostly using it as a catch all term for the rough handling it might have to endure... in the field...
Chris Reeve inkose large or BENCHMADE 781? Congratulations on the lives.
I dislike CRK (no basis for this, I just don't like the designs), so I vote the Anthem.
Thank you
The BM is nice and has that AXIS Lock goodness, but the CRK has their famous precision build quality with more deliberate opening action. Both great knives in different ways.
(07:30) why would anyone be beating on a folder, it doesn't make sense why a tough carbon is used on a folder in that sense. Give me high RC supersteels on a folder anyday over toughness
👍
You are wrong❤️ they look cool 😂
Double question i bought a production civivi Damascus knife if i dip it again in acid would it ruin the blade or make the design darker? Also i have a coated carbon steel fixed blade but rust came through under the coated part how could i fix that or is it unfixable btw im in arizona so very dry here
If you want to darken the etch, you may want to use some cheap instant coffee for 5-10 minutes or as needed, not sure if it will work as well on stainless steels but it should increase the contrast.
What kind of acid? Vinegar is not going to do anything to stainless steels.
Damascus is dipped in acid (usually Ferric chloride, available on amazon and radio shack), so you could just redip it if you want it darker. I'm not sure what to do about the rusted fixedblade, sorry
You can certainly try but you will need something like Ferric chloride like Jonathan Shaw mentioned since CIVIVI uses a stainless Damascus. Use at your own risk of course.
As for the rust under the coating, the only thing you can do is strip the coating so you can get to the rust.
Question . I collect Spyderco my birthday is coming up and I'm stuck between the new canis model or changing things up and finally get a Benchmade (Osborne or similar) ?
You pronounce tanto wrong. I like your vids anyway.
Mr. Hoog Vaals..... Mr. Huge Balls
It's TEN-to ....................................................................... (just kidding I have no idea)
I hate the mini knife crazy. 3.5 inches is as small as it needs to go.
Sometimes small knives are all you need.
Not sure how this really affects you. With either restrictions for a work environment or local laws, sometimes that's all one can carry. Having a small utility knife is often all you need.
3.5+ knives are too bulky & heavy. I love my 940 but that thin & light 3.3 is about my max for common carry, I’d like to grab a 945 (mini 940) as soon as they release one to match my 940.
Seems dangerous to my fingers
Good video. Just too much uh, um.
Your Wrong. Now give me your thumbs
Fix your spelling and ask nicely :P
It's pronounced tanto 😜
Yes it is!
You're wrong lol!
Thumbs up lol!
First!)
Any recommendations on a non-assisted EDC knife with a button lock?
Tangram Vector is one that get lots of good reviews.
Also the ProTech Malibu is well regarded
Johnathan Shaw I picked up the vector, thanks. The Malibu looks nice too, but at $200 maybe next paycheck lol
Hogue X1 Microflip - kcoti.com/3hPchDi
or CRKT BT Fighter for a budget option: kcoti.com/35V9PZR
KnifeCenter nice thanks