Volvo Transmission Fluid Flush
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2020
- Here is a quick video explaining the process to complete a transmission flush on any Volvo with an Aisin TF80-SC transmission. This was an 2013 XC60 T6 with 65,000 miles.
The fluid used in this video can be found here....www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
What you failed to mention and do, is that the car needs to be sitting level not on ramps when you do the oil level. Good video though
Yes! Thank you for this, pinned it for others to see. I ended up adding another half quart afterwards on level ground, so it is important do check on a level surface.
Came here to ask about this. I figured it had to be level for that measurement.
What are the part numbers for drain bolt and washer? Thanks
Hey Man, HUGE thanks for this video and your trick of opening the hose closer to the transmission. The hose wouldn't come off at the cooler, I fought with it for hours and finally gave up. Thanks to you I was able to complete the job though. Great work!
I had the same issue. Glad this worked for ya!
Thanks! Ive got 300000km on my 08 and just added a trailer hitch. I'm going to flush the trans next week before I start towing my boat.
Awesome video. Thanks for posting this.
Great video! Thanks for the content. I have a 2011 Volvo xc60 that needs servicing.
Thanks for this video, gave me more confidence to do mine. All done. Note on XC60 D5 2010 the oil cooler pipes are slightly different in design, same effect. The return line is the lower pipe, don’t disconnect the upper of the two pipes! ( like I did ) haha what a mess.
For those watching this... the transmission actually holds about 7 qts in total from what I understand. Most people don't bother pulling the trans cooler line when doing this one but that will absolutely help get the maximum amount of old ATF out of the system for a given amount of "flushing" fluid available.
Are you pulling off a different line for the flush or have you come up with a different flush method? Genuinely curious what you're doing differently.
@@garrett_turbod For this particular transmission, most people just drain out whatever will come from the drain plug (I think ~3.5-4qts for this transmission), then add what came out plus about 1 qt extra, idle and shift through the gears for a couple minutes to mix up the fluid. Repeat that a few times, then bring temp to 50-60C then drain off the excess through the center screw of the drain. A "partial" fluid change can be done with as little as ~4qts with this method. A more thorough change that gets the fluid looking transparent pink again takes more like 15qts.
Pulling the cooler line and idling as you demonstrated is a way to get a couple "dirty" qts of fluid pumped out more directly, so that there's less dirty-used fluid in the system to try to "dilute" out using the process above. Your technique will achieve a higher ratio of "new" fluid for the number of qts used in total, however, one might argue that the hassle of doing it this way, including the possibility of needing new 0-rings for that seal, or new clip, and trying to figure out a way to connect hoses, and all the extra potential mess if a hose comes off or the collection bottle falls over, isn't worth the hassle compared to just mixing a few more qts through on the process described above using the drain and fill ports on the transmission.
@@mdocod Sure, a drain and fill is another acceptable way of changing fluid.
VERY NICE. THANK YOU
Thanks I just got vida but wasn't sure which menus to go through to set temp thanks
Thank you for the complete details! May I ask you the diameter of the draining tube you are using?
hi there.where do i get this software to reset the counter.?
Hello, thanks for this video, when you flush, did it come oil out of the hose from the cooler, or both?
Thanks from Norway
Same engine/trans. For me it came out of both.
Excellent video, many thanks. A quick question - why do you need to drain in just 2 litre increments?
I understand from a comment below the capacity is 7 litres in total so basically I'm asking if 5 litres is the minimum safe level at which the engine can be run? Or would 3 litres suffice? 2 litres? A single litre?
I don't fully understand the workings of a torque converter but I'd have to wonder if, without any fluid, it would simply spin freely and that the likely worry is a lack of lubrication for the converter and the pump itself. Surely both of these would have enough residual fluid to spin safely for a few seconds even if completely starved of a fluid supply?
Obviously the more dirty fluid that can be removed in a single cycle, the quicker and more thoroughly the oil can be cleaned. If you do 5 lots of 2l changes, you're still left with approximately 19% dirty fluid in the trans. Conversely using the same 10 litres of trans fluid, just 2 lots of 5l changes and you''re down to approximately 8% dirty fluid remaining. A third flush at 5 litres would leave almost 98% clean fluid.
Again, great video and a huge help for those of us planning to undertake the job soon, much appreciated.
I understand what you're saying, the logic makes sense.
This procedure is what the Volvo service manual suggests. I'm not certain as to why this is, maybe as a preventative measure to ensure no air is pulled into the pump?
Great information! Do you switch the gears while you are flushing the fluid out? Do you have to be in Parking while flushing the fluid?
The vehicle was in park, yes.
Good day GPMFG, i recently bought an 2008 S40 2.5 T5 R design (automatic gearbox) but the previous owner was negligent to say the least. I had to service the car urgently but due to lockdown regulations i could not manage to do so on time.
To cut the long story short, it seems the gearbox is dead due to very low oil levels.
My question is, is the R design using the same gearbox as the normal 2.0 T5?
Likely yes, but I'm not familiar with the S40's
If I wanted to just do a quick drain and fill to just change part of the fluid, would it be ok to just measure what came out and replace it with the exact same amount?
You can but wait until everything is at room temperature, then measure the fluids. You want to account for thermal expansion
Hi. Thanks for this. Just querying the process...
You're draining from the drain plug and then filling again or draining from the oil cooler as well before topping up?
I wasn't sure whether you're filling up and then turning on the engine to pump out the atf in the cooler or whether you're draining at the drain plug and then at the cooler hose as well. Pls advise
It's been a while since I've done this process so I think the video is a better resource. Looks like drain the trans first, then fill back up and then flush it.
Aisin T-IV fluid is $5.99 on RockAuto
can you give more details about the hose, do you just stick the hose into the oil line, what its diameter, need any connectors? Thanks
1/2 OD tubing. No connectors. Watch what I did in the video. It's just a slip fit, not pressurized. Just slip it into the female connector.
Do you happen to know the whole capacity of the transmission ( as in how many liters of trans fluid)?
7 liters
Could you explain what the second hose was for? Not the one you connected on the thermostat hose. Thanks!
I believe it was connected to the oil cooler up top, though don't think any oil is going to come out from there since the thermostat hose is disconnected.
2nd hose goes on the transmission connection where you took off the hose from. Fluid will come out of that port too.
I don’t have vida but have a scan tool to check temp.
Do you think it’s terrible not to reset the counter?
Thanks.
I don't have VIDA also. I just reset the TCM with my OBD scanner after I'm done.
What website were you in explaining the plugs
Link in the description
Hi! I'm about to do this on my 2010 V70 this spring. What's the diameter on the hose your'e using?
Also wonder.
@@KarlssonnsKlister flushed my car 1.5months ago, think it's 12mm innerdiameter. I'll controlmeasure and post here again. Bought the hose on Bauhaus for about 50sek.
I was wondering as I don't have the tool for checking the engine temperature and would love to save some money to do the rear breaks and put new tyres on my V70 P3 with 83000 on the clock, could I drop the transmission oil and measure exactly what comes out when cold and put the exact same back amount of new oil back in and may be do this twice a year unit the oil looks clean.
Yes. A drain and fill works just fine as long as you're measuring the fluid quantity that came out.
@@garrett_turbod thanks very much for your reply I've wanted to know this for a long time now ,good video bud , I'm glad I found it now .
@@garrett_turbod thanks bud that's what I will be doing
I’m 58 years old if this the future of cars I’m walking 😢
You don't like inline 6 Volvos?
You're in luck, it isn't. The future of cars will be electric motors with exactly ONE rotating internal part, bolted directly to a compact, single-speed reduction gearbox. No complex Rube Goldbergesque multispeed transmission with half a dozen or more gears, and hundreds of precision parts, servos, sensors, actuators, or torque converters. Few hoses, no emissions sensors, and little generated heat in normal power installations. The entire "power unit" takes up about 1/5th the volume of space of a conventional engine and transmission - less compared with the gargantuan dinosaur V8 systems.
I really enjoy tinkering with my 2011 C70 T5, but I absolutely love the sublime simplicity and reliability of my 2019 Kona electric, and my 2024 Ioniq 5! No lag acceleration with "thrust" you can feel in your shoulders as the seat is driving you forward with full torque from 0 rpm.
At 9:24, I do not inderstand where that black colored hose came from. It suddenly appeared in your video. What is it?
The black hose is in the other side of the connection. So I put a hose in each side of the removed connection because I didn't know where the fluid would come from. The black hose wasn't necessary.
Very interesting video. I have Volvo S60 2.5L (T5) 2014 with 34,000 miles. Should I do transmission flush with this mileage? If not, when should I do this?
Transmission flushes are pretty widely debated thought the Volvo community, many will say it's unnecessary and that their car has 300,000 miles on it without an issue - others claiming they flush often... I believe in regular maintenance regardless of driving habits or mileage. With this being said, Volvo doesn't suggest an interval for fluid flushes while other manufacturers (such as GM) who use the same gearbox suggest 60,000 miles. I would stick to 50-60k for flushes and use the Volvo or Aisin brand fluid.
@@garrett_turbod Thank you very much for help!
Just to add something that might be useful: ZF recommends changing the fluid for the 8HP every 8 years or 80k km, so take that as a point of reference. Even though your car may not have 60k mi, the fluid should be changed after certain amount of time because its performance reduces over time. I know this is the TF80-SC but it is some useful info.
Aisin (tranny manufacturer) says flush after 60k km (40k miles)
I am numpty, can some one please explain that as you have to cycle through the gears to mix the old crap with the new fluid why does the car not drive off the ramp. Yes you put your foot on the break (mine is an auto) but is the transmission actually spinning and mixing the fluids if there is no forward momentum of the vehicle. Would you not have to drive it up the street, then bring it back and start all over again. I know this may show my mechanical prowess with a spotlight but there seems to be zero point going throw the gears if the car does not move. Can some one please teach me the error of my (mechanical) ways. Is it something to do with the clutch engagement. I can see that on a manual but not an auto.
Not a stupid question at all. First of all, the procedure is to warm up the fluid to check the level, not necessarily mix it (however it does happen). In an automatic transmission like this one, the torque converter is what couples the transmission and engine. So, while the wheels are not spinning, the torque converter within the transmission coupled to the engine side IS spinning and creating heat as a result of the fluid friction between the spinning and non spinning turbine. Having the vehicle in drive and brake torquing puts considerable load on the transmission thus creating heat.
@@garrett_turbod Thank you for your reply to my question. Most helpful. This is the next job on the list. My car is now at 70 k. You would not happen to know why i have to insert my key twice on every occasion would you. The fist attempt the car hardly ever starts. On the second attempt it starts every time. I have tried foot pedal combinations and battery changes, but nothing. It does make you panic for a second when you are far from home, but on the second insert it comes to life with zero concern. ( This is my last question I promise ;-) Thank you.
@@elmafudd9703 Mine does the same sometimes
Hello, i`m from Chile. What`s the webpage or URL for indications of Volvo cars in minute 2:44 aprox Thank
It's Vida.
Keeping running transmission to empty the fluid may let it spin without enough fluid or no fluid at all …kind of risky for the clutches inside the transmission and torque converter!!!the required method is exact same way you disconnect and connect the hoses the inner(connected to the trans)and outer(connected the cooler)ATF with a machine (or have someone pour the fluid while your draining the last two litters)that drains the fluid and in mean time fill it for replacement…this way we won’t have the GAPE time that let the clutches spins without enough lubricant…
Appreciate the feedback. It's been a while since I've looked at the procedure in VIDA; when I made the video I followed the process from VIDA. The process indicated to remove a specific amount of fluid at a time to prevent the starvation of fluid.
meh, there is no load on the trans. It should be fine for a few secs
I kept seeing everyone say to keep the car running when setting the level....I don't think this is required...can't you just bring it up to 55 C and turn the car off.??..what's the purpose of having it running?
The transmission has a pump in it which circulates the fluid. If the engine isn't running, the amount of fluid in the transmission will be much higher than if it's running. This means if you set the level with the car off, the fluid level will actually be too low.
It´s on ramps, that´s why oils coming out when removing first plug....
Thanks for the feedback.......
No Mikael: With the engine stopped the oil level increases as the Torque Converter drains.
The level plug gives the correct level with the engine running after the final fill.
But it should be off the ramps & level when doing the final fill, with oil above 50°C.
(Confirmed below by GP MFG....answering "Hey Sporto")
So as you're pumping out the transmission oil, the oil level drops while the transmission is running.
That's correct. No need to worry, it won't cause any damage. This is the Volvo service procedure, follow it and you won't cause damage.
@@garrett_turbod Thanks for this great video.
How you remove the upper plug?? Why you no show that 👎🏽
Can someone explain why it is necessary to reset the fluid counter?
The fluid counter is used in the transmissions on board diagnostics. It determines fluid degradation due to high temperatures, high loads, etc. If not reset, it's possible your transmission will have faults as it doesn't realize the fluid has been replaced.
@@garrett_turbod Thanks for the response! So this implies the physical operating characteristics of the transmission changes over time based on fluid viscosity or degradation? Geeze! Any idea how these changes are made? I guess the counter is not just informational for maintenance decisions?
@@dragonrider837 That's a great question, I doubt these transmissions are THAT sophisticated but you never know
I wonder if observing temperature is really that important to do this oil service. Why? -because of this natural case; - the oil constracts when cold and expands when hot. So, after driving prior to flush, the oil expands. Flush it while hot, oil would be more pliable or flows easy. Let it cool down to room temperature and measure oil level with graduated container. That measurement is the required new transmission oil you need on the car. New oil has to be on the same room temperature as the old oil. There you go, -science deduction always win!
Yes you are correct. No need to observe trans temps if oils are measured correctly taking thermal expansion into account
This is great stuff. Looking to do mine here. Where to purchase the VIDA setup from?
I purchased the DICE module from eBay. It's a knockoff but it works fine. VIDA can be found on swedespeed. There's a few write-ups which also contain the software.
I use the VIDA VM from volvodiag.com/. They also have downloads that you can do a full local installation, which is a huge PITA as he mentions in the video. Using the VM was simpler for me. I converted it to run inside VMWare Workstation, but Virtualbox (what the image is designed for) should work fine too.
@@garrett_turbod I was lucky enough to get a genuine volvo VIDA for pretty cheap off of a SwedeSpeed member, so I can use Bluetooth with it :)
Did car need to be level, i see you have only front end on the ramps ??
Indeed, the level should be set with the car level.
Hi just confirming this is not the AW55 50 Aisin transmission? Or is it? thanks for the vid!
TF-80SC
@@garrett_turbod Thank you Garrett. Do you know if these trannies, ie TF-80SC and AW55 50, follow same procedure and specs?
@@alexmessina3383 sorry I do not know that. Look up "Mathews Volvo site" on TH-cam. They have a video about your transmission
Appreciate that/ thanks!
Always remember level your car,
Did you change the filter?
There's no filter
@@garrett_turbod there is but inside gearbox. To change it u have to disassembly whole gearbox :(
Life is so much easier with a manual gearbox.
Meh, trade off is having to replace the clutch. And realistically, 90% of people don't change their fluid and don't have any issues.
Kinda agree...been a manual shifter all my life... for various reasons just gone for a used Xc90 V8 Volvo automatic... and the ATF is a bad colour!
The stuff I am seeing and reading here on YT is doing my head in!
"Must do this" "Must do that" "Must use Genuine Volvo/Aisin" " Spec JWS3309"
Give me (And everyone else) a break.
The same boxes are used in Mercs & BMW's to name but two alternatives.
When is someone going to have the guts to stand up and say: 99% of ATF's on the market are compatible with every gearbox.... Or...If not: Explain?
I just spent over $150 on an ATF "Synthetic" to do a flush on my recently acquired Xc90 V8...Aisin Box.... Needs 7lts.... I buy 12....
It's made by Petro-Canada... "Volvo Approved" ...up to a point....
"May not give the same MPG as that specified by Volvo"..... Oh.... FFS!
It is going in!
@@garrett_turbod Replacing the clutch is simple compared with this nightmare!
Interestingly: "90% DON'T change the fluid and have no issues"?
Can you qualify that...with any references/links?
@@patagualianmostly7437 Replacing the clutch is easy? Sure mate...
Does it has a filter?
As far as I know, no.
@@garrett_turbod tks
@@naboleiausa273it does and it is hidden behind the differential, so even if you take off the valve body you won’t be able to replace the filter… that’s a boomer
Should the car be leveled before draining the excess fluid from the transmission?
When the car in up in the front, the fluid is angled in the gearbox. So, either pull the plug out on level ground OR lift the rear of the car as well.
Hose diameter ?
1/2" OD
What is an h17 hex ?
Good question. I assume an Allen head.
So it is it seems
at 20:40 your car is not leveled to complete the procedure!
Yep. This has been mentioned by many. The top comment has been pinned with my response outlining this mistake.
7 L in total .. 3 to 4 L is coming out by normal plug drain and refill ... and you didn't clean up plugs and change gaskets/seals??? I would do .. they have to sit there for the next close to 40.000 miles.
ДЗЯКУЙ
What an ASININE way for trans oil to be checked & filled!
Why don't they use a dipstick like American cars?
Most modern cars no longer use dipsticks. Any new American car that I've seen uses a "sealed" transmission, meaning the manufacturer believes it never needs to be serviced....
chaos
The only way I do.
Its VIDA not Vaida
is time for electric cars
Still gotta maintain what's on the road guy.
Also... Electric cars are not maintenance free
Waist of money
Not sure how my waist has anything to do with your money.
In all seriousness though.. many people including myself disagree. It's your opinion and I respect that.