This idea of yours seems to have had an effect! I see copies of your design (using a pusher) here on TH-cam as well as Lee's new presses (took em long enough). :D
Lot's of good ideas, but many times too advanced for a lot of people, especially those who don't 3D print. However several of your ideas have been genius for me, especially the collander fix with the penny! Still seems like, often times, the first shell will flip upside down, but there is a whole lot less of that using this fix.
Presses that use the vertical tube primer feed surround the tube with a fixed explosion shield. I've seen a tube filled with primers detonate and even with the explosion shield in place, which also ruptured, the press operator needed surgery to repair the damage to his hand. It damaged his ceiling as well.
Thank you for your comment, I will add a shield to mine. I have had a detonation using the standard lee priming tray, it was a chain reaction that detonated 7 primers. Thankfully the chain reaction died out before making it to the round primer tray which was full. I did find a video showing a full tube detonation th-cam.com/video/es1YgL3izWY/w-d-xo.html .
I had a pair of Pro1000s about 30 years ago - I used'ta tap the primer reservoir every few rounds I loaded to make sure it fed into the trough...hjadda sell them after my stroke in 2002...
No I do not have any plans for selling any type of kit or printed parts. The main reason for not wanting to sell this is the amount of hand fitting required to get it to work. You might want to contact a seller on eBay called "reloading3d" ; he prints a lot of plastic 3d parts for reloading equipment and sells them on eBay. You could ask him if he has any plans to print theses for people and sell them on eBay.
I have not been able to see a Lee Pro 4000 in person, so I do not know. I am a retired engineer so this was a fun project for me. In my honest opinion there is a not a huge time savings in do hand priming versus on the press priming. In general there is less frustration in doing hand priming versus on the press priming. Hope this helps.
What a great idea. I do have 2 questions. A - Have you tried using a spring like the one used for the shell pusher? B - Is there any way to get the original file so I would be able to ungroup everything? I would like to add a small hole in between the primer tube and the pusher for a IR sensor for a low primer warning, but would have to make that space a little bit bigger. I have made a IR set up similar to the one you made. BTW you have a great channel with a lot of great info, so thank you.
I originally started this design with a spring but I could not easily find or make one that was consistent over the range of travel that I needed. I made my design on Tinkercad and went back in and made a copy that is now public. If you go to www.tinkercad.com/search and search "prm sld" my design will come up and you should be able to do what you want. With my part that is in Thingiverse you should be able to import that one into Tinkercad or Fusion 360 and make the designs on it. Some of the other reloading designs that use a primer tube have a small rod that you place on top of the primers in the tube to help push them down as you reload and primers are used from the tube. One design I saw had a ball on the rod that pushes the primers down, when it got low enough the ball on the rod would touch a micro switch mounted on the side of the primer tube setting off the low primer alarm. This might be easier to do than an IR system.
I learned quite a bit as my primer pin is seating but primer protruding out the brass 1/16 to 3/16". Camera work was nauseating (I'll be better in 30 minutes or so). Q: So there is no real stock, up/down primer pin adjuster, on the Pro 1000? Hot load, now is 9mm 1.18 form 1.15 and wedged in carousel, and bullet exiting trough, resisting removal against the primer in the press.
There is no up primer depth seating adjustment on the lee 1000 that I know of. I have had the issue of the primers not fully seated. For me the solution was to for every cycle of the press I had to do 3 movements of the arm. The first part was to lower the arm all the way (of course put any components in the press you need for the cycle like brass and bullets first), the second step is to raise the arm all the way. The third step is that now that the arm is fully up you push it forward (parallel to the ground) and feel the vibration of the press, you should feel a slight vibration in the press when the primer becomes fully seated.
Genius design. Question: How much torque on the spring for the primer blocker When I pulled the shell carrier off and mounted your set up the primer blocker shoots back about half way back when released. Made the spring from piano wire (TH-camr Jack Houweling). Also found 1/4 inch brass tubes at Hobby Lobby that work really well for small primers, two for $5
After using mine for hours I found it was less hassle to not use a primer blocker. As long as you don't jerk the handle when indexing, the primer will lower back into the primer transfer bar with out a problem.
There are printing services that will print them for you, I have no idea how much they charge. I went through all of the hassle of making this design because I enjoyed the challenge. From all of my research I feel that the fastest, simplest and in the long term cheapest way is to buy a hand primer and prime out of the press. I feel Lee came to the same conclusion because some of their newer press designs have gone this route. Hope this helps, good luck reloading!
Is there anyway to re-write your software were it will accept a piece of 1/4" stainless tubing? I found that 1/4" OD tubing will accept both small and large primers. Thanks , Mack Cook
Hi great info on your channel, Thank you. My issue is not relevant to this topic although you maybe able to help. New to the pro 1000 9mm & can't seem to get a consistent powder throw. Using w231 & sometimes only throwing 1.5gr. This is a problem when trying to throw 4gr, best I have managed is 3.7gr.
THIS IS AN EXCEANT IDEA, NOW CAN SOMEONE TAKE THE IDEA, AND CREATE A COMMERCIAL VIABLE, PROFESSIONAL DEVICE,,, AS A NON MECHANICAL PERSON, THE EXECUTION IS FAR TOO AMATEURISH,,, NO INSULT MEANT,,, YES I WILL BUY A KIT HARIE GODDEN.... STH EAST QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA
This is one of the biggest advance for fixing the primers feed problems on this press. I hope someone at Lee is thinking of buying you the idea.
This idea of yours seems to have had an effect! I see copies of your design (using a pusher) here on TH-cam as well as Lee's new presses (took em long enough). :D
Glad to see you are still making video content. always enjoyed your videos. -Dave
Lot's of good ideas, but many times too advanced for a lot of people, especially those who don't 3D print. However several of your ideas have been genius for me, especially the collander fix with the penny! Still seems like, often times, the first shell will flip upside down, but there is a whole lot less of that using this fix.
Where can I buy several sets of the already 3d printed parts ? I have no access to 3d printing
Presses that use the vertical tube primer feed surround the tube with a fixed explosion shield. I've seen a tube filled with primers detonate and even with the explosion shield in place, which also ruptured, the press operator needed surgery to repair the damage to his hand. It damaged his ceiling as well.
Thank you for your comment, I will add a shield to mine. I have had a detonation using the standard lee priming tray, it was a chain reaction that detonated 7 primers. Thankfully the chain reaction died out before making it to the round primer tray which was full. I did find a video showing a full tube detonation th-cam.com/video/es1YgL3izWY/w-d-xo.html .
Mad scientist stuff. Nice!
Nice work
thanks for a new video
Excellent stuff! I'll make it a point to upgrade my press to accept this system.
I had a pair of Pro1000s about 30 years ago - I used'ta tap the primer reservoir every few rounds I loaded to make sure it fed into the trough...hjadda sell them after my stroke in 2002...
Great work I have one problem I don't have a 3D printer could you sale it as a kit.
No I do not have any plans for selling any type of kit or printed parts. The main reason for not wanting to sell this is the amount of hand fitting required to get it to work. You might want to contact a seller on eBay called "reloading3d" ; he prints a lot of plastic 3d parts for reloading equipment and sells them on eBay. You could ask him if he has any plans to print theses for people and sell them on eBay.
Is there any way this priming system could work on the Lee Progressive Pro 4000 (ABLP) ??
I have not been able to see a Lee Pro 4000 in person, so I do not know. I am a retired engineer so this was a fun project for me. In my honest opinion there is a not a huge time savings in do hand priming versus on the press priming. In general there is less frustration in doing hand priming versus on the press priming. Hope this helps.
Great idea but what are the dimensions for the primer pusher, I looked on thingiverse for the 3d version but can't find it.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230627
What a great idea. I do have 2 questions. A - Have you tried using a spring like the one used for the shell pusher? B - Is there any way to get the original file so I would be able to ungroup everything? I would like to add a small hole in between the primer tube and the pusher for a IR sensor for a low primer warning, but would have to make that space a little bit bigger. I have made a IR set up similar to the one you made. BTW you have a great channel with a lot of great info, so thank you.
I originally started this design with a spring but I could not easily find or make one that was consistent over the range of travel that I needed. I made my design on Tinkercad and went back in and made a copy that is now public. If you go to www.tinkercad.com/search and search "prm sld" my design will come up and you should be able to do what you want. With my part that is in Thingiverse you should be able to import that one into Tinkercad or Fusion 360 and make the designs on it. Some of the other reloading designs that use a primer tube have a small rod that you place on top of the primers in the tube to help push them down as you reload and primers are used from the tube. One design I saw had a ball on the rod that pushes the primers down, when it got low enough the ball on the rod would touch a micro switch mounted on the side of the primer tube setting off the low primer alarm. This might be easier to do than an IR system.
Thanks am printing it now👍
I learned quite a bit as my primer pin is seating but primer protruding out the brass 1/16 to 3/16". Camera work was nauseating (I'll be better in 30 minutes or so). Q: So there is no real stock, up/down primer pin adjuster, on the Pro 1000? Hot load, now is 9mm 1.18 form 1.15 and wedged in carousel, and bullet exiting trough, resisting removal against the primer in the press.
There is no up primer depth seating adjustment on the lee 1000 that I know of. I have had the issue of the primers not fully seated. For me the solution was to for every cycle of the press I had to do 3 movements of the arm. The first part was to lower the arm all the way (of course put any components in the press you need for the cycle like brass and bullets first), the second step is to raise the arm all the way. The third step is that now that the arm is fully up you push it forward (parallel to the ground) and feel the vibration of the press, you should feel a slight vibration in the press when the primer becomes fully seated.
Genius design. Question: How much torque on the spring for the primer blocker When I pulled the shell carrier off and mounted your set up the primer blocker shoots back about half way back when released. Made the spring from piano wire (TH-camr Jack Houweling). Also found 1/4 inch brass tubes at Hobby Lobby that work really well for small primers, two for $5
After using mine for hours I found it was less hassle to not use a primer blocker. As long as you don't jerk the handle when indexing, the primer will lower back into the primer transfer bar with out a problem.
How do people get these parts. I don't own a 3d printer
There are printing services that will print them for you, I have no idea how much they charge. I went through all of the hassle of making this design because I enjoyed the challenge. From all of my research I feel that the fastest, simplest and in the long term cheapest way is to buy a hand primer and prime out of the press. I feel Lee came to the same conclusion because some of their newer press designs have gone this route. Hope this helps, good luck reloading!
Is there anyway to re-write your software were it will accept a piece of 1/4" stainless tubing? I found that 1/4" OD tubing will accept both small and large primers. Thanks , Mack Cook
All you have to do is drill the hole out larger. I tested drilling out an early prototype I had to 1/4" and it still had plenty of strength.
Hi great info on your channel, Thank you. My issue is not relevant to this topic although you maybe able to help. New to the pro 1000 9mm & can't seem to get a consistent powder throw. Using w231 & sometimes only throwing 1.5gr. This is a problem when trying to throw 4gr, best I have managed is 3.7gr.
Sorry I have no experience with W231. Go onto one of the reloading groups and ask, they will be happy to help you.
Get the Lee Auto drum powder measure
Salve sono Sergio come posso contattare x notizie ed eventuali acquisto della slitta primer pro1000 grazie se possibile risposta in italiano grazie
WOW!!
THIS IS AN EXCEANT IDEA, NOW CAN SOMEONE TAKE THE IDEA, AND CREATE A COMMERCIAL VIABLE, PROFESSIONAL DEVICE,,, AS A NON MECHANICAL PERSON, THE EXECUTION IS FAR TOO AMATEURISH,,, NO INSULT MEANT,,, YES I WILL BUY A KIT
HARIE GODDEN.... STH EAST QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA
WOW!!