Wow, I can't believe I found this video with the exact same issue. The hardest part is taking out the ice maker and drawers, what a PITA. Oddly, when I pulled the metal cover off the back of the freezer, the coil tray was full of tempered glass bits, I have no idea how broken bits of glass could even get in that area, it's totally sealed??? Anyway, the glass was blocking up the P-trap thingy, I cleaned it out, defrosted the coil and I could clearly see how/why it leaked. Job done in about 1.5 hours. Thank you so much for figuring this out, you saved me god knows how much time and frustration! I know this is an older video, but hopefully you still read these comments. Time to borrow my wife's hair dryer :)
You rock. Much better explanation than from the Kitchen Aid idiots! The heat gun idea was a lifesaver. I have the one with the single drawer and the ice maker, so the ice maker (in my case) also had to come out. Couldn't have done it without you! They should send the new part out as a "recall item". That duck bill is a piece of junk. Amazon has the part Part #W10619951 (new j-trap) The original "slide" was broken off and laying in the tray... probably been like that since it was delivered. It had been leaking for who knows how long, ruined the floor underneath the frig. Thanks for the video!
Great help. To bad some people don't understand you are just videoing a repair you are doing and not in a lab making a training video. Showed me all I needed to know. I didn't have the kit so I cleaned the "duck bill" and reinstalled it. Took 6 years to get this way so I figured it would last until I get the kit. The hardest part was unloading the freezer and taking the drawers out. You saved me much more than a service call, you saved me the cost of a new (non stainless steel) refrigerator. People that can't figure out what you are doing have no business attempting to do the repair IMHO.
@NOYDB You can see more detail on other videos of the same problem. Make sure you get all the ice out of the drain under the shelf that collects the water and dropes in the evaporator tray underneath. Thats the tube the duckbill attaches. That's the problem. The duck bill gets clogged, the water doesn't drain, it freezes in the drain, the collector pan overflows, the freezer bottom gets flooded, the wife sees it and wants a new refrigerator. I got the ice out of the drain the second time around.
I followed along while making the repair. Straight forward instruction which was clearer than any publicly available repair guide that I could identify. Thank you.
Great video. Amazon sells the replacement drain for $7. Replacing the drain was easy. Took about 30 min. Took about 3 hours to melt ice buildup. All the drawers had to come out food removed. And then they had to be put in again. My shop vac came in very handy. And so does a hair dryer to melt the ice.
Great video. Watched it last week. Ordered the part on Amazon and installed and de-iced everything this morning. Exactly as described even though ours was a different Kitchenaid model. Thanks.
Thanks for the instuctions. The fridge is fixed and back to working. Your help is greatly appreciated. Unfortunately now I gotta figure out what to do with the floor underneath that is completely ruined thanks to years of leaking!
Thanks Rob, this video helped a lot and my model looked exactly the same as yours. This is not a job for someone that isn't a skillful do-it-yourself person though. I've repaired cars in the 70's, and was an electronic tech in the 80's & 90's, and an electronic engineer until my retirement last year. Still this is a very time consuming job and took me about 3 hours total. I did not replace the original tube with the new P-Trap but I did modify the old rubber duck bill spout. I cut a v-notch in it to give it a better flow. And yes, it was plugged up just like your picture! That was indeed the cause of the problem. Still the part that was the most difficult was taking out the freezer pans. This model is not designed for easy repair. But I eventually figured how to remove the plastic trays. But was not able to get the entire sliding drawer out so I worked around that problem. That made it more difficult to get at the back plate out though in front of the cooling coils. But you MUST remove that plate in order to defrost the drip hole that is frozen solid closed. I used a hair dryer to unfreeze the ice on that drip hole while using a piece of heavy electrical wire to push up into the frozen ice inside the same hole but from the bottom in the back of the freezer. Let me say that it will take a lot time to melt the ice in the hole before it will begin to move the plug of ice, but this method works. Probably at least an hour of defrosting before it is unplugged. You know you have it unplugged when water starts to drip into the evaporating pan. My coils did not have any ice on them, just the drain canal and the drip hole were iced up but that still created about a quart of water when melted! Also you must get the coils and canal completely free of ice and as dry as possible before you put the back plate on so as not to freeze the hole up again. This is more of a precaution but I do not want to do this again any time soon!
Very helpful video. The whole process with the R&R on the duckbill, defrosting the freezer drain and coils was about 2 hours. It took me longer to figure out how to take the top freezer drawers out. I left the bottom drawers and worked around them. I avoided the heat gun and used a hair dryer because my heat gun is dangerous around plastic - it will melt thin plastic in 30 seconds. The new "S" trap was $16 on Amazon and Whirlpool/Kitchenaid should supply it for free because this a product defect. Of course my 5 year extended warranty expired 13 days before this problem occurred. One favor - turn off Bauerle next time - he's a real tool.
I made the mistake of tearing mine apart on a Sunday without parts in hand. What I did find out is you can unplug the drain with a stiff zip tie or something similar. My model had a s_shaped tube instead of a slide. Otherwise things went well! Thanks
This fridge was in my house when I moved in. It was leaking water EXACTLY how this one is.. into the freezer bottom then the floor. I took it apart and did the repairs.. only I just cut the duckbill rubber open a bit and cleaned the hole. I left the slide in because the new part was unavailable when I was repairing it. Fast forward a couple years and it's leaking again.. only every 6 weeks or so. The difference is there's NO water/ ice under the drawer and I cannot seem to find the source. I take the drawer out and find ice behind the panel inside the fridge. I thaw it out and put it back together. 5 or 6 weeks later...water on floor. Is that slide piece the issue? Even tho it's not leaking inside the freezer.. just out the right side underneath somewhere? Sorry for the lengthy comment but this has me baffled.
Does this apply to the KRMF706ESS model? There are numerous complaints about it leaking water. Love the fridge and the style is perfect, but it appears to be severely defective...
Z K ours is too. did you repair yours? if so by any chance were you able to do it from the inside/front of the unit. ours is crammed in a custom cabinet and is a several-person job to get it out.
Same. My old Whirlpool refrigerator broke, and now I'm eyeing the Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS so very hard. It's very pretty, but all the reviews for it paint a nightmare. I'm conflicted.
Thank you very much for that TH-cam tutorial. I have the same exact model of that refrigerator and mine does the exact same thing. My Icemaker also stopped working. Did you get that part to fix it with the refrigerator or is that part you just picked up at the repair shop. I need to do that.
DId you even look at this video before you posted it? It so confusing. I have no idea where you got the part from or why. When you defrost the refrigerator I have no idea where the radiator is from and where you are looking from. Did I learn something, yes that there is a new part for these refrigerators, but why this part works and for what models is beyond the information you have included in the video.
OMG, who shot the video, your son on a pogo stick?? It's like filming birds while riding on a wooden rollercoaster! Though the intent of the video was good, watching it made me nauseated. And the little "duckbill" thing that clogs... where did you remove it from? Confusing video in some areas.
Wow, I can't believe I found this video with the exact same issue. The hardest part is taking out the ice maker and drawers, what a PITA. Oddly, when I pulled the metal cover off the back of the freezer, the coil tray was full of tempered glass bits, I have no idea how broken bits of glass could even get in that area, it's totally sealed??? Anyway, the glass was blocking up the P-trap thingy, I cleaned it out, defrosted the coil and I could clearly see how/why it leaked. Job done in about 1.5 hours. Thank you so much for figuring this out, you saved me god knows how much time and frustration! I know this is an older video, but hopefully you still read these comments. Time to borrow my wife's hair dryer :)
The video was a little rough but the instructions were spot on!! Thank you!!
You rock. Much better explanation than from the Kitchen Aid idiots! The heat gun idea was a lifesaver. I have the one with the single drawer and the ice maker, so the ice maker (in my case) also had to come out. Couldn't have done it without you! They should send the new part out as a "recall item". That duck bill is a piece of junk. Amazon has the part Part #W10619951 (new j-trap) The original "slide" was broken off and laying in the tray... probably been like that since it was delivered. It had been leaking for who knows how long, ruined the floor underneath the frig. Thanks for the video!
Great help. To bad some people don't understand you are just videoing a repair you are doing and not in a lab making a training video. Showed me all I needed to know. I didn't have the kit so I cleaned the "duck bill" and reinstalled it. Took 6 years to get this way so I figured it would last until I get the kit. The hardest part was unloading the freezer and taking the drawers out. You saved me much more than a service call, you saved me the cost of a new (non stainless steel) refrigerator. People that can't figure out what you are doing have no business attempting to do the repair IMHO.
@NOYDB You can see more detail on other videos of the same problem. Make sure you get all the ice out of the drain under the shelf that collects the water and dropes in the evaporator tray underneath. Thats the tube the duckbill attaches. That's the problem. The duck bill gets clogged, the water doesn't drain, it freezes in the drain, the collector pan overflows, the freezer bottom gets flooded, the wife sees it and wants a new refrigerator. I got the ice out of the drain the second time around.
Thank you for the video. Saved me 200 - 300 bucks for a repair man to come out and do it.
I followed along while making the repair. Straight forward instruction which was clearer than any publicly available repair guide that I could identify. Thank you.
Great video. Amazon sells the replacement drain for $7. Replacing the drain was easy. Took about 30 min. Took about 3 hours to melt ice buildup. All the drawers had to come out food removed. And then they had to be put in again. My shop vac came in very handy. And so does a hair dryer to melt the ice.
Larry Peterson what’s was the name of the part to purchase on Amazon?
Great video. Watched it last week. Ordered the part on Amazon and installed and de-iced everything this morning. Exactly as described even though ours was a different Kitchenaid model. Thanks.
I do appreciate this. I am, however quite dizzy now.
Thank you. I have the same issue and now I can fix it.
Thanks for the instuctions. The fridge is fixed and back to working. Your help is greatly appreciated. Unfortunately now I gotta figure out what to do with the floor underneath that is completely ruined thanks to years of leaking!
My man! Saved me a lot of time. Thank you for posting this video.
Great tutorial. Turned a $200 repair into $14 and some cussing. Thanks!
Thanks Rob, this video helped a lot and my model looked exactly the same as yours. This is not a job for someone that isn't a skillful do-it-yourself person though. I've repaired cars in the 70's, and was an electronic tech in the 80's & 90's, and an electronic engineer until my retirement last year. Still this is a very time consuming job and took me about 3 hours total. I did not replace the original tube with the new P-Trap but I did modify the old rubber duck bill spout. I cut a v-notch in it to give it a better flow. And yes, it was plugged up just like your picture! That was indeed the cause of the problem. Still the part that was the most difficult was taking out the freezer pans. This model is not designed for easy repair. But I eventually figured how to remove the plastic trays. But was not able to get the entire sliding drawer out so I worked around that problem. That made it more difficult to get at the back plate out though in front of the cooling coils. But you MUST remove that plate in order to defrost the drip hole that is frozen solid closed. I used a hair dryer to unfreeze the ice on that drip hole while using a piece of heavy electrical wire to push up into the frozen ice inside the same hole but from the bottom in the back of the freezer. Let me say that it will take a lot time to melt the ice in the hole before it will begin to move the plug of ice, but this method works. Probably at least an hour of defrosting before it is unplugged. You know you have it unplugged when water starts to drip into the evaporating pan. My coils did not have any ice on them, just the drain canal and the drip hole were iced up but that still created about a quart of water when melted! Also you must get the coils and canal completely free of ice and as dry as possible before you put the back plate on so as not to freeze the hole up again. This is more of a precaution but I do not want to do this again any time soon!
Thanks for the video - huge help on a kitchenaid I had to fix.
Very well done and very helpful - thank you.
Thanks a million. You made me look like a genius in my wife's eye . LOL
does it work for kitchenaid krfc302ESS lower freezer water buildup leaking
Very helpful video. The whole process with the R&R on the duckbill, defrosting the freezer drain and coils was about 2 hours. It took me longer to figure out how to take the top freezer drawers out. I left the bottom drawers and worked around them. I avoided the heat gun and used a hair dryer because my heat gun is dangerous around plastic - it will melt thin plastic in 30 seconds. The new "S" trap was $16 on Amazon and Whirlpool/Kitchenaid should supply it for free because this a product defect. Of course my 5 year extended warranty expired 13 days before this problem occurred. One favor - turn off Bauerle next time - he's a real tool.
My kitchen aid is doing this too. My water line for the ice maker is not hooked up. Does that make a difference?
Good one Rob.
Thanks
I made the mistake of tearing mine apart on a Sunday without parts in hand. What I did find out is you can unplug the drain with a stiff zip tie or something similar. My model had a s_shaped tube instead of a slide. Otherwise things went well! Thanks
Thank you but the video moving around makes me dizzy and hard to watch.
Clarifying question: what parts do I need to order to perform this fix?
This fridge was in my house when I moved in. It was leaking water EXACTLY how this one is.. into the freezer bottom then the floor.
I took it apart and did the repairs.. only I just cut the duckbill rubber open a bit and cleaned the hole. I left the slide in because the new part was unavailable when I was repairing it.
Fast forward a couple years and it's leaking again.. only every 6 weeks or so. The difference is there's NO water/ ice under the drawer and I cannot seem to find the source. I take the drawer out and find ice behind the panel inside the fridge. I thaw it out and put it back together. 5 or 6 weeks later...water on floor.
Is that slide piece the issue? Even tho it's not leaking inside the freezer.. just out the right side underneath somewhere?
Sorry for the lengthy comment but this has me baffled.
Does this apply to the KRMF706ESS model? There are numerous complaints about it leaking water. Love the fridge and the style is perfect, but it appears to be severely defective...
Z K ours is too. did you repair yours? if so by any chance were you able to do it from the inside/front of the unit. ours is crammed in a custom cabinet and is a several-person job to get it out.
Same. My old Whirlpool refrigerator broke, and now I'm eyeing the Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS so very hard. It's very pretty, but all the reviews for it paint a nightmare. I'm conflicted.
Anyone have a part number?
Great video. Thank you, you saved me a tech call 😁
Where u order replacement drain?
You can order off of amazon. Kitchen Aids and Whirlpool use the same model. Just search p trap whirlpool.
What is the part # & name
Nice inverter
Thank you very much for that TH-cam tutorial. I have the same exact model of that refrigerator and mine does the exact same thing. My Icemaker also stopped working. Did you get that part to fix it with the refrigerator or is that part you just picked up at the repair shop. I need to do that.
Thank you
DId you even look at this video before you posted it? It so confusing. I have no idea where you got the part from or why. When you defrost the refrigerator I have no idea where the radiator is from and where you are looking from. Did I learn something, yes that there is a new part for these refrigerators, but why this part works and for what models is beyond the information you have included in the video.
OMG, who shot the video, your son on a pogo stick?? It's like filming birds while riding on a wooden rollercoaster! Though the intent of the video was good, watching it made me nauseated. And the little "duckbill" thing that clogs... where did you remove it from? Confusing video in some areas.
This is my same thought- 3 years later lol
I have another question- if the “duck bill” is dirty, why not just clean it?
@@onlyawesomewoman Because it continues to overflow, regardless of if it’s clean, dirty, or even installed. Bad design.
Look somewhere else then!