I wish I had this in grad school. We worked with homebuilt ignition and fuel injection control systems. We were just mechanical engineers dealing with electrical noise issues.
I didn't even realize this was a new vid. I was actually putting my G540 kit together tonight. I was searching for the easiest and most fool proof method. This popped up and I ordered the material right then. Talk about great timing. I do wish you would get a camera with a few more pixels. Kinda grainy on my end. Sorry. Thanks, again kirk
Kirk, thank you as always for your support. I'm looking into a better camera for these tutorial videos as your right finding one with the correct clarity is a little tedious. Thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
There is tool called a fid used in sailing to pull line cores through jackets to make eyes and splices, Maybe one would shave some time off and assembly.
My bad this is about the glass rod you use to open up your braided shielding, A fid is a pretty basic tool. A rod with a blunted conical end on one side and recess that you can affix your lines to and pull them through as you expand your braiding. It would save a little bit of time. It disturbs the braid only as much as needed. @@corvetteguy50
Steven, Thank you for your support. I really appreciate the kind words. The tip cleaner is excellent when you deal with lots of connections. Thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
Great video! I learned a lot! And the shielding will be connected directly to the protected earth, right? There are other guys that connect it to V- on ac dc PSU or GND pin on the breakout board and it does confuse me The thing is that it seems to work
Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. There's only one ground to use, and that's the earth ground going to your power supply. I suggest using a ground buss bar splitter to allow for multiple terminations as you'll require them. Here's a video of a clients build reflecting the proper "star grounding" solution th-cam.com/video/kW7-cs-4cgw/w-d-xo.html. All V- terminals on any power supply are not a ground source. The breakout board's ground if its built properly will be going to the same ground as your power supply as well. Thank you, Vince
I'm just curious. Why wouldn't you just crimp the connector and then add solder to the joint? You think that solder wouldn't wick through whole joint or there is it something else?
Radoslaw, thank you for your support. That's a very good question. I find its easier to see if you have proper penetration of solder, but you could very well do as you said, and crimp, an then solder. thank you, Vince
Thank you for your support. I wouldn't recommend it as your to close to the cables maximum voltage rating. This is serious, and I would get the required cable Here's what you require www.ebay.com/itm/131899174942 Thank you, Vince
Not with double shielded cable that's properly grounded. The outer diameter of my cable is 10.5mm, so you should be fine, but I would measure to be sure. Thank you, Vince
Hallo Vince, again a nice video! You know, I am assembling a new controller for my 6040, so my question is, if I do everything as you recommend, but I only want to use heatshrink for fixation of the cables and the shielding, and use cable fixations in the housing to prevent unwanted movement of the assembled cable, will there be any problem, the housing is anyway grounded….? I want to prevent the stiffness of the assembled cable! Thanks in advice and stay healthy, Gernot
I have a question in regards to shielded cable grounding at the bulkhead. I know some practices I've read online state you can ground at the bulkhead for the cables. What effects or issues is there doing that vs grounding at the driver then solder the shield drain to a terminal pin?
Aaron thank you for your support. In best practice the grounding of the system should be done as seen in this portion of the video. th-cam.com/video/Hik7SlkX5Is/w-d-xo.html Thank you, Vince
You say that no current flows through the estop cable but surely if there is no current flowing there is no change to detect if the switch is opened or closed?
Brian, Thank you for your support. The E-stop switch acts as a ground break on the G-540. It simply breaks the circuit when depressed. There's no voltage/current that flows though its leads as the one lead from the switch is installed in pin 10 of the G540, and the second lead from the switch is installed in a V- terminal on your power supply. Thank you, Vince
Hello,.. ive been a sub for a while and like your vids ; they're very informative ..I have a question: i have a Gecko G540 hooked up to an ESS and a Sherline mill; for the cables that run from the Gecko to the machines steppers-- will i need that much copper to full length shielded cables? Thanks in Advance
Hey Robert, Thank you for your support. The motor cables from the G540 should in best practice be double shielded from the drive to your stepper motors. Thank you, have a great weekend, and Happy Easter! Vince
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you sound like you're from eastern PA. good explanation on the video
Thank you for your support. I'm originally from Long Island New York. :) Thank you,
Vince
I wish I had this in grad school. We worked with homebuilt ignition and fuel injection control systems. We were just mechanical engineers dealing with electrical noise issues.
Yea, double shielded cable makes it very easy to eliminate noise when used properly. Have a great weekend! Vince
I didn't even realize this was a new vid. I was actually putting my G540 kit together tonight. I was searching for the easiest and most fool proof method. This popped up and I ordered the material right then. Talk about great timing.
I do wish you would get a camera with a few more pixels. Kinda grainy on my end. Sorry.
Thanks, again
kirk
Kirk, thank you as always for your support. I'm looking into a better camera for these tutorial videos as your right finding one with the correct clarity is a little tedious. Thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
Nice video Vince, thanks for the tips I try to incorporate all of them in my build
Chris, thank you for your support. I really appreciate it . I'm glad to have helped :) Have a great weekend!
Vince
Thanks, nice presentation
Jim, thank you for your support as always I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend!
Vince
There is tool called a fid used in sailing to pull line cores through jackets to make eyes and splices, Maybe one would shave some time off and assembly.
Thank you for your support. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what you're discussing. Thank you,
Vince
My bad this is about the glass rod you use to open up your braided shielding, A fid is a pretty basic tool. A rod with a blunted conical end on one side and recess that you can affix your lines to and pull them through as you expand your braiding. It would save a little bit of time. It disturbs the braid only as much as needed. @@corvetteguy50
I love your videos nice and neat great information that cleaning tip looks great
Steven, Thank you for your support. I really appreciate the kind words. The tip cleaner is excellent when you deal with lots of connections. Thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
Great video! I learned a lot!
And the shielding will be connected directly to the protected earth, right?
There are other guys that connect it to V- on ac dc PSU or GND pin on the breakout board and it does confuse me
The thing is that it seems to work
Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. There's only one ground to use, and that's the earth ground going to your power supply. I suggest using a ground buss bar splitter to allow for multiple terminations as you'll require them. Here's a video of a clients build reflecting the proper "star grounding" solution th-cam.com/video/kW7-cs-4cgw/w-d-xo.html. All V- terminals on any power supply are not a ground source. The breakout board's ground if its built properly will be going to the same ground as your power supply as well. Thank you,
Vince
I'm just curious. Why wouldn't you just crimp the connector and then add solder to the joint? You think that solder wouldn't wick through whole joint or there is it something else?
Radoslaw, thank you for your support. That's a very good question. I find its easier to see if you have proper penetration of solder, but you could very well do as you said, and crimp, an then solder. thank you,
Vince
Learn it. nice course.
Thank you for the kind words, and support. Vince
Hi, great video! Can I use 300v cable for my 2.2kw spindle? because the seller didn't send me the 600v as I requested.... Here is 220v not 110v.
Thank you for your support. I wouldn't recommend it as your to close to the cables maximum voltage rating. This is serious, and I would get the required cable Here's what you require www.ebay.com/itm/131899174942 Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 my machine is 3* spindle set up and the cables for them will be in same chain will I have some problems even with the 600v cable?
Not with double shielded cable that's properly grounded. The outer diameter of my cable is 10.5mm, so you should be fine, but I would measure to be sure. Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 thank you Vince! :)
@@ecocraftings-tips You bet...:)
Vince
Hallo Vince, again a nice video!
You know, I am assembling a new controller for my 6040, so my question is, if I do everything as you recommend, but I only want to use heatshrink for fixation of the cables and the shielding, and use cable fixations in the housing to prevent unwanted movement of the assembled cable, will there be any problem, the housing is anyway grounded….? I want to prevent the stiffness of the assembled cable!
Thanks in advice and stay healthy, Gernot
I have a question in regards to shielded cable grounding at the bulkhead. I know some practices I've read online state you can ground at the bulkhead for the cables. What effects or issues is there doing that vs grounding at the driver then solder the shield drain to a terminal pin?
Aaron thank you for your support. In best practice the grounding of the system should be done as seen in this portion of the video. th-cam.com/video/Hik7SlkX5Is/w-d-xo.html Thank you,
Vince
You say that no current flows through the estop cable but surely if there is no current flowing there is no change to detect if the switch is opened or closed?
Brian,
Thank you for your support. The E-stop switch acts as a ground break on the G-540. It simply breaks the circuit when depressed. There's no voltage/current that flows though its leads as the one lead from the switch is installed in pin 10 of the G540, and the second lead from the switch is installed in a V- terminal on your power supply. Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 So what you are saying is that breaking a wire in which no current is flowing can be detected at one end (ie pin 10)?
@@tangoterrier This would be correct as current isn't flowing in a lead connected to the V- terminal on the G540's power supply. Thank you,
Vince
Hello,.. ive been a sub for a while and like your vids ; they're very informative ..I have a question: i have a Gecko G540 hooked up to an ESS and a Sherline mill; for the cables that run from the Gecko to the machines steppers-- will i need that much copper to full length shielded cables? Thanks in Advance
Hey Robert, Thank you for your support.
The motor cables from the G540 should in best practice be double shielded from the drive to your stepper motors. Thank you, have a great weekend, and Happy Easter! Vince
@@corvetteguy50 thank you for the wishes!! So that means i have to use shielding along the entire length of each cable??
You're correct. Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 ok,,where can i lay my hands on that much copper ?
I do offer double shielded cables if you need them. Thank you,
Vince
Hi Vince. What is the brand and model of your soldering station? Are you pleased with it? I'm thinking about replacing mine and yours looks nice.
Meticulous. So many tips and tricks.
Thank you for the kind words, and support. I really appreciate it! Vince