I just bought one of these. Came today actually 😜. Sounds ok to me right now but I’ll keep an ear out for any issues. You think they fixed this problem by now?
Mine didn't have C11 and C26 already. I replaced the worst of all op-amps: OPA2134 with a decent one: JRC2114, but sound was still compressed, so I decided to skip OP275 (gain 3.75) and the two blue capacitors, connecting output of JRC2114 with R60 and R68 (I soldered them with one end in the air to solder a cable to these loose ends). The loudness is still sufficient for most of the headphones and the sound is still not perfect, not 100% analogue, but now it's acceptable, maybe a little harsh. I tried a double LT1028 - it was OK too. The next step would be to replace TPA6120A2 with a double BUF634T and then to replace a op-amp in a differential stage with MUSE or Oracle II , or some simple analog stage on JFET. It isn't and never will be a R2R DAC, but now it can be used and my doughter is happy. It's an updated to SMSL M2 (also modded) in which SA9027 suddenly died.
What did I tell you about where to get your op amps. There is no such thing as a JRC2114 that is a fake Chinese made op amp. Leave everything alone and goto DIGIKEY and get a real OPA2134 and you will see what I'm talking about. Also wityh op amps you dont necessarily look at the gain but you look at the bandwidth, the slew rate is important (how fast it is) and signal to noise ratio but you are dealing with fake op amps and you are chasing your own tail here. Knock it the hell off and take advice from people that know what the hell they are talking about and get some real op amps.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 I meant NJM2114 from JRC - this is a very decent op-amp. Regarding OPA2134 I have (or rather had) several from different sources (also removed from some quite old, expensive audio equipment) - all sound the same bad, really bad. In fact all op-amps sounds bad in one way, or another - of course you can make it a little bit better, by example by making their output A-class (current sources at the out to +/Vdd or -/Vss), removing the load by using some buffers, by reducing the open-loop-gain, but in the end only few are semi-acceptable. OPA2132 was quite decent one, but not universal (low I-out) - maybe you mistook one for another? Statistically the best op-amps are from Analog Devices, but I didn't try MUSES from Nisshinbo (I'm afraid of fakes). The best op-amp is when there is no op-amp - just a discrete current-base voltage amplification without loopbacks and A-class buffers.
Any idea on how to fix the fade in issue with the volume when starting an audio file in windows on winamp, or watching TH-cam? (It's almost like it has a noise gate on the input. I have the 2020 pcb board). I found this: "There is a hack to get around this. You can set the "listen to this device" check box on either a line in device or a microphone that you aren't using, then set the device volume to 1/100. It won't be audible, but it will keep audio data streaming to you DAC and keep it fixed in to your chosen output sample rate."
I don't, but I do know they aren't needed so it's probably a design flaw. Those caps are tantalum capacitors and they are known to not sound very good on top of it all.
These capacitors are in PSU. Most probably the mass distribution / supply lines separation is not correct there and if the power lines are too good with these capacitors (low ESP type maybe?), there is a loop back propagated by the supply lines between the op-amps, or these caps just produce a noise on these lines.
Hello, I hope you can help me, I changed OPA2134 for muse02, I read that I have to omit/delete 0P275, what do you mean? Please explain to me. Thank you so much
Thanks for this. Your stuff is great. Watched your FX TUBE03 video and am waiting for my caps and OP amps to come in so I can trick that out. Now I'm thinking of getting the DAC-X6 as well. It looks like all these mods are exclusive to the headphone amp, correct? If I'm not going to use the headphone portion can I run this stock or are there still components I should upgrade?
I still have the DAC X6 first gen and see quite a bit of difference between mine and the MKII. You mentioned replacing the surface mount caps with standard PCB electrolytics on yours. Do you recommend I do the same with the bank of 6 surface mount caps I have on mine?
The DAC X6 power caps aren't surface mount, if you turn the board over you will see the solder joints. Yes, I replaced them on mine also and when I did I was able to turn the volume all the way up without distortion. Get Nichicon audio grade caps. Replace that op amp too!!!!!!
@@ranbymonkeys2384 @RanByMonkeys Yes right! I meant "through hole PCB" style. I think I'll probably scrap it tho. Forgot to mention I tried tapping into the S/PDIF signal on my mobo, but ended up downloading improperly labeled pinouts. Rather than the DAC going to Ground and S/PDIF signal, it received both the signal and +5V! I didn't notice it until suddenly it began sparking and smoking. Worst scent ever = burning PCB 🤮
@@ranbymonkeys2384 It was the PCB traces to the RCA outputs that are done for. The ground trace between the L & R completely burnt off, and damaged the other two since they are situated so damn close to it. There's a black streak running from the RCA outs all the way up the board to the volume knob where they terminate and run to the top side. It'll need wires soldered and jumped directly from that point to the RCA out. Not impossible, may tackle it someday, but I just picked up a Topping D50 and can't wait to try it out tonight.
Do you think replacing the op amp in this would be a noticeable improvement. I jus watched your video where you have those giant red things wired into the tube amp from FX Audio (kinda hilarious 😆) but you also mentioned replacing with something around $10 price would help. Same thing with this model?
I’m here in this game and really appreciate this channel . Could you recommend some Op Amps for a good upgrade on this model ? And perhaps for a more spacious soundstage? Thanks
The sound stage is mostly going to come from the capacitors but check out the tube-03 video there are a bunch of op amps listed there. I know one thing you got to get rid of the one that came with it.
JRC2114 is good enough, but you have to skip/remove OP275 - without removing/skipping OP275 the SOUND will not open not matter what op-amp you will place instead of OPA2134.
Can you provide the part numbers of all the caps you used to upgrade the FX-Audio DAC-X6 Mk2? I just received mine, it's a V3 (June 2020), and I'm having a hard time reading some of the original values on the capacitors. Thank you
I'm not sure what the version 3 has in it, well I'm not sure what version mine is. OK I have version 2, and there are several types and values on this board If i gave you a list of all of the caps there are probably 15 to 20 different ones.
First, thanks for this video! I started hearing a hiss no matter what power supply I use, or cable or whatever, and that was driving me crazy! If I understand correctly, I need to change the op amp for my issue, correct?
@@ranbymonkeys2384 no I don't think to remove those because I only have the hiss issue! But you were very helpful to finally discover what was my problem!
wait..let me make that clear..you talked to FX-audio and they told you to take out some caps from their product to make it sound better..did i understand that right?
Hey prick I dug up the email what's your email address. I'll send it as long as you get the fuck off of my channel and never return. EDIT: I'll give you 20 minutes I have stuff to do.
hello, about the OPA2134 part...can i just put in any 8-pin headphone amp from ali-express with 8 pins? Dont these things have specific resistance or voltages? Most of the time there are no specs on ali express.Id like to put in a nice part maybe for 10 dollars.
The PSU in this DAC supply +10.5V/-10.5V to both op-amps (OPA2134 and OP275). You can replace horrible OPA2134 with most of the dual op-amps that are designed for 24-36 V, but be aware of these that are designed for less, like 5V. Still some of the op-amps will not be working correctly in this application, like LT1358. I didn't test all of them I have - JRC2114 was just good enough after skipping OP275 too.
Well the X6 is very dated now and the MK2 is also on the borderline the MK2 only goes up to 192000 sample rate and there up to 384000 now I got the Topping E-30 in one of my videos and it sounds great without any mods, but it isn't Bluetooth. Is Bluetooth important to you or the higher sample rate. Also the Topping supports DSD and the FX Audio's don't.
Thanks for the tip! Can anyone advice me please if I can use muses02 or 03 for this DAC? and if 03 is better than 02 in terms on linearity of sound? Beginner for hifi here so would appreciate any tips.
Beginner for hifi and jumping right into the good stuff huh? You can use any "dual" op amp. I know the 02 is better than the 01. The MUSES03 is a single and WILL NOT work. Go with the MUSES02. If you aren't paying $50 for it, it is fake.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 Thanks for the reply! I was really looking into getting the 03 good thing I had the guts to ask here first. Now for the price, all the suppliers I can find here in PH sell 02's for around $25 - oh my.
Can you help me? While removing the power cap of the C83, all the PCB solders in the minus portion fell off and were damaged. Is there any other point in the condenser connection where I can connect the minus leg?
It goes to pin 4 of the op amp. Sorry I was looking at the wrong DAC before. EDIT : See if that leg of cap C81 hooks to pin 4 of the op amp if it does hook it to the pin on cap C81.
I hope I understand you correctly because that cap is a surface mount and really that is what you want to happen is the colder joint to fall of the cap then take that off of the board so, I don't know what your saying I guess.
Thank you for the help. It is hard to explain because I am not good at English. Now C83 has already been removed. But, The power cap (-) PCB pads came off while removing it (C83). So current CAP 100uf 35v (-) part cannot be attached on C83. Can I attach Cap leg (-) to another point?
@@pmchan387 There is a copper trace under the black coating that the pad was hooked to follow that to the next component I think it the cap next to it C81.
E30 is better than the MK2 but the new E30's have the new chip which isnt as good as the old one. You need to get one before a certaint serial number. I have one I'm selling it for $200, but if you can't find an old one then get the E50.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 yeah sure you're right.. yes i've replaced the opamp but the dac is still dead (the opamps work for sure they where used in a different amp). my x6 stopped working when i've accidentally switched of my plugbar.. but i can't find any fuses or faulty caps..
Hello there, so im in possesion of dax x-6, lately i was thinking about an upgrade, im using it only with my pc and my dt990 pro, is tube03 good choice? Will it make any difference? Or should i buy additional hedphone amp? What would you recommend? I would like to spend around 50-60 $, is it even worth it in this budget? Thanks
@@ranbymonkeys2384 how about muses01? I was just reading about this two opamps and people say that 01 is better, i really dont have any knowlage in this topic so i hope u know something
@@h2p_rome No it's not better, I don't think so anyway. I can tell you that the MUSES02 and the X6 pair very well, or I would have put MUSES01 and NOT MUSES02. Your on your own.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 okay, sure, one more question only, i think i would like to choose warmer one, beacuse sound of 990 is pretty analitic, which one would you say is warmer?
@@GeorgeWPush They pretty much all have that now days, just saying because the 196,000 sample rate is getting pretty old especially if you plan on having it for a while. How much did you pay for it?
Any idea on LPS. Would replacing the caps with higher ones mess with voltage?my LPS has 14 caps. 1800 uf and 3000 uf. But i plan to replace caps with 3300 uf. They fit but idk if it will mess with voltage or not.thank you
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2020 version also fine working.thank you
Did you end up taking those caps out?
Yes, I removed the c11 and c26 caps. I'm a beginner, so I don't know if the sound is better than before, but I feel cooler.
@@pmchan387 If there is still sound then you did good, hahah
I just bought one of these. Came today actually 😜. Sounds ok to me right now but I’ll keep an ear out for any issues. You think they fixed this problem by now?
It's hard to say, but if you don't notice anything weird with it, don't worry about it.
Mine didn't have C11 and C26 already. I replaced the worst of all op-amps: OPA2134 with a decent one: JRC2114, but sound was still compressed, so I decided to skip OP275 (gain 3.75) and the two blue capacitors, connecting output of JRC2114 with R60 and R68 (I soldered them with one end in the air to solder a cable to these loose ends). The loudness is still sufficient for most of the headphones and the sound is still not perfect, not 100% analogue, but now it's acceptable, maybe a little harsh. I tried a double LT1028 - it was OK too. The next step would be to replace TPA6120A2 with a double BUF634T and then to replace a op-amp in a differential stage with MUSE or Oracle II , or some simple analog stage on JFET. It isn't and never will be a R2R DAC, but now it can be used and my doughter is happy. It's an updated to SMSL M2 (also modded) in which SA9027 suddenly died.
opa2134 are excellent op amps where are you getting your op amps
What did I tell you about where to get your op amps. There is no such thing as a JRC2114 that is a fake Chinese made op amp. Leave everything alone and goto DIGIKEY and get a real OPA2134 and you will see what I'm talking about. Also wityh op amps you dont necessarily look at the gain but you look at the bandwidth, the slew rate is important (how fast it is) and signal to noise ratio but you are dealing with fake op amps and you are chasing your own tail here. Knock it the hell off and take advice from people that know what the hell they are talking about and get some real op amps.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 I meant NJM2114 from JRC - this is a very decent op-amp. Regarding OPA2134 I have (or rather had) several from different sources (also removed from some quite old, expensive audio equipment) - all sound the same bad, really bad. In fact all op-amps sounds bad in one way, or another - of course you can make it a little bit better, by example by making their output A-class (current sources at the out to +/Vdd or -/Vss), removing the load by using some buffers, by reducing the open-loop-gain, but in the end only few are semi-acceptable. OPA2132 was quite decent one, but not universal (low I-out) - maybe you mistook one for another? Statistically the best op-amps are from Analog Devices, but I didn't try MUSES from Nisshinbo (I'm afraid of fakes). The best op-amp is when there is no op-amp - just a discrete current-base voltage amplification without loopbacks and A-class buffers.
Any idea on how to fix the fade in issue with the volume when starting an audio file in windows on winamp, or watching TH-cam?
(It's almost like it has a noise gate on the input. I have the 2020 pcb board).
I found this:
"There is a hack to get around this. You can set the "listen to this device" check box on either a line in device or a microphone that you aren't using, then set the device volume to 1/100. It won't be audible, but it will keep audio data streaming to you DAC and keep it fixed in to your chosen output sample rate."
I don’t use windiws
@@ranbymonkeys2384 OK so you no sound drop offs for you on Linux or Mac I take it?
Hi, do you know what these C11 and C26 capacitors are responsible for? Why FX Audio used them? Thanks
I don't, but I do know they aren't needed so it's probably a design flaw. Those caps are tantalum capacitors and they are known to not sound very good on top of it all.
These capacitors are in PSU. Most probably the mass distribution / supply lines separation is not correct there and if the power lines are too good with these capacitors (low ESP type maybe?), there is a loop back propagated by the supply lines between the op-amps, or these caps just produce a noise on these lines.
Hello, I hope you can help me, I changed OPA2134 for muse02, I read that I have to omit/delete 0P275, what do you mean? Please explain to me. Thank you so much
What OP275? Never heard that one
Thanks for this. Your stuff is great. Watched your FX TUBE03 video and am waiting for my caps and OP amps to come in so I can trick that out. Now I'm thinking of getting the DAC-X6 as well. It looks like all these mods are exclusive to the headphone amp, correct? If I'm not going to use the headphone portion can I run this stock or are there still components I should upgrade?
The DAC-X6 is a little dated. It only has a sample rate of 96000. There are superior dac's out not with better dac chips (Topping E30).
@@ranbymonkeys2384 Sorry, I meant the X6 MkII. Same question, though. Are all the hardware shortcomings you cited just on the headphone output side?
@@ryanredmond9195 I don't remember, I also don't remember how many memory slots there were to my Tandy 1000.
@@ryanredmond9195 I don't know
I still have the DAC X6 first gen and see quite a bit of difference between mine and the MKII. You mentioned replacing the surface mount caps with standard PCB electrolytics on yours. Do you recommend I do the same with the bank of 6 surface mount caps I have on mine?
The DAC X6 power caps aren't surface mount, if you turn the board over you will see the solder joints. Yes, I replaced them on mine also and when I did I was able to turn the volume all the way up without distortion. Get Nichicon audio grade caps. Replace that op amp too!!!!!!
th-cam.com/video/ZsfH6nJdi9g/w-d-xo.html
@@ranbymonkeys2384 @RanByMonkeys Yes right! I meant "through hole PCB" style. I think I'll probably scrap it tho. Forgot to mention I tried tapping into the S/PDIF signal on my mobo, but ended up downloading improperly labeled pinouts. Rather than the DAC going to Ground and S/PDIF signal, it received both the signal and +5V! I didn't notice it until suddenly it began sparking and smoking. Worst scent ever = burning PCB 🤮
@@GS-HIFI-AUDIO Shit happens, check and see if maybe it just fried the S/PDIF portion and can still use the RCA output.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 It was the PCB traces to the RCA outputs that are done for. The ground trace between the L & R completely burnt off, and damaged the other two since they are situated so damn close to it. There's a black streak running from the RCA outs all the way up the board to the volume knob where they terminate and run to the top side. It'll need wires soldered and jumped directly from that point to the RCA out. Not impossible, may tackle it someday, but I just picked up a Topping D50 and can't wait to try it out tonight.
Do you think replacing the op amp in this would be a noticeable improvement. I jus watched your video where you have those giant red things wired into the tube amp from FX Audio (kinda hilarious 😆) but you also mentioned replacing with something around $10 price would help. Same thing with this model?
Absolutely
Replace it! But make sure you get the real one
hello, the muses 02 Does it go in the 0pa 2134 socket? and which one replaces OP 275? thank you so much
the muses02 replaces any dual op amp and the op 275 can be replaced with any single op amp but I dont know why you are asking that
How do you open the case? What exact screw drivers to use?
I’m here in this game and really appreciate this channel . Could you recommend some Op Amps for a good upgrade on this model ? And perhaps for a more spacious soundstage? Thanks
The sound stage is mostly going to come from the capacitors but check out the tube-03 video there are a bunch of op amps listed there. I know one thing you got to get rid of the one that came with it.
Thank you so much!
JRC2114 is good enough, but you have to skip/remove OP275 - without removing/skipping OP275 the SOUND will not open not matter what op-amp you will place instead of OPA2134.
Can you provide the part numbers of all the caps you used to upgrade the FX-Audio DAC-X6 Mk2?
I just received mine, it's a V3 (June 2020), and I'm having a hard time reading some of the original values on the capacitors.
Thank you
I'm not sure what the version 3 has in it, well I'm not sure what version mine is. OK I have version 2, and there are several types and values on this board If i gave you a list of all of the caps there are probably 15 to 20 different ones.
First, thanks for this video!
I started hearing a hiss no matter what power supply I use, or cable or whatever, and that was driving me crazy! If I understand correctly, I need to change the op amp for my issue, correct?
yes, you do! Did you remove those capacitors also?
@@ranbymonkeys2384 no I don't think to remove those because I only have the hiss issue! But you were very helpful to finally discover what was my problem!
@@daniv1987I recommend the Muses01 or Muses02 op amp.
wait..let me make that clear..you talked to FX-audio and they told you to take out some caps from their product to make it sound better..did i understand that right?
Let me be clear... go fuck yourself. Don't ever be condescending with me.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 why isnt that exactly what youre saying?
@@melangkoh4184 Yes so why do I have to reiterate, it was actually through emails.
@@melangkoh4184 Are you implying i'm a liar now?
Hey prick I dug up the email what's your email address. I'll send it as long as you get the fuck off of my channel and never return. EDIT: I'll give you 20 minutes I have stuff to do.
hello, about the OPA2134 part...can i just put in any 8-pin headphone amp from ali-express with 8 pins? Dont these things have specific resistance or voltages? Most of the time there are no specs on ali express.Id like to put in a nice part maybe for 10 dollars.
The PSU in this DAC supply +10.5V/-10.5V to both op-amps (OPA2134 and OP275). You can replace horrible OPA2134 with most of the dual op-amps that are designed for 24-36
V, but be aware of these that are designed for less, like 5V. Still some of the op-amps will not be working correctly in this application, like LT1358. I didn't test all of them I have - JRC2114 was just good enough after skipping OP275 too.
Do you recommend getting the X6 for 66$ or go get the MK2? Nice video btw
Well the X6 is very dated now and the MK2 is also on the borderline the MK2 only goes up to 192000 sample rate and there up to 384000 now I got the Topping E-30 in one of my videos and it sounds great without any mods, but it isn't Bluetooth. Is Bluetooth important to you or the higher sample rate. Also the Topping supports DSD and the FX Audio's don't.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 wow 384k cool it will sound twice as good as 192k thank you. 192k always sounded "not enough" for my brain.
@@melangkoh4184 it's never enough
Thanks for the tip! Can anyone advice me please if I can use muses02 or 03 for this DAC? and if 03 is better than 02 in terms on linearity of sound? Beginner for hifi here so would appreciate any tips.
Beginner for hifi and jumping right into the good stuff huh? You can use any "dual" op amp. I know the 02 is better than the 01. The MUSES03 is a single and WILL NOT work. Go with the MUSES02. If you aren't paying $50 for it, it is fake.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 Thanks for the reply! I was really looking into getting the 03 good thing I had the guts to ask here first. Now for the price, all the suppliers I can find here in PH sell 02's for around $25 - oh my.
@@edwardkenemorales PH? What suppliers are you looking at getting it from?
03.
Anyone experiencing using usb input where the beginning ½ second of audio is not heard? Sort of like a fade in.
Have you tried a different USB cable and slot?
Yeah I do, and also I tried using a different cable but the fade in issue is still there and that makes me not use this DAC at all.
I adjusted the output/playback stop start settings in “foobar” my main media player of choice. I still have that problem with my CD player.
Can you help me?
While removing the power cap of the C83, all the PCB solders in the minus portion fell off and were damaged. Is there any other point in the condenser connection where I can connect the minus leg?
It goes to pin 4 of the op amp. Sorry I was looking at the wrong DAC before. EDIT : See if that leg of cap C81 hooks to pin 4 of the op amp if it does hook it to the pin on cap C81.
I hope I understand you correctly because that cap is a surface mount and really that is what you want to happen is the colder joint to fall of the cap then take that off of the board so, I don't know what your saying I guess.
Thank you for the help.
It is hard to explain because I am not good at English.
Now C83 has already been removed.
But, The power cap (-) PCB pads came off while removing it (C83). So current CAP 100uf 35v (-) part cannot be attached on C83.
Can I attach Cap leg (-) to another point?
@@pmchan387 So the pad came off of the board not the cap?
@@pmchan387 There is a copper trace under the black coating that the pad was hooked to follow that to the next component I think it the cap next to it C81.
Hi, would you recommend the X6 MKII or the E30?
you would? Well I have a E30 for sale and I would recommend the E50 (the one I'm currently using).
E30 is better than the MK2 but the new E30's have the new chip which isnt as good as the old one. You need to get one before a certaint serial number. I have one I'm selling it for $200, but if you can't find an old one then get the E50.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 I would luv to but i dont live in the US.
my x6 mk2 broke a month ago, any idea which components might be faulty? 12V supply is working...
open it up and make sure that op amp is seated (chip that has 8 legs) and see if you see any burnt stuff
Hey Dali lama what's your deal?
@@ranbymonkeys2384 isn't the opamp just a preamp for the analog rca input? well i've replacd it with an ad823/ad627 but that didn't help
@@user-hw2tn3uc5n The op amp is the amp. That is the amplifier. That DAC has 1 op amp so are you sating you tried both of them?
@@ranbymonkeys2384 yeah sure you're right.. yes i've replaced the opamp but the dac is still dead (the opamps work for sure they where used in a different amp).
my x6 stopped working when i've accidentally switched of my plugbar.. but i can't find any fuses or faulty caps..
Hello there, so im in possesion of dax x-6, lately i was thinking about an upgrade, im using it only with my pc and my dt990 pro, is tube03 good choice? Will it make any difference? Or should i buy additional hedphone amp? What would you recommend? I would like to spend around 50-60 $, is it even worth it in this budget? Thanks
Ya if that is all your budget it get the MUSES02 op amp.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 how about muses01? I was just reading about this two opamps and people say that 01 is better, i really dont have any knowlage in this topic so i hope u know something
@@h2p_rome No it's not better, I don't think so anyway. I can tell you that the MUSES02 and the X6 pair very well, or I would have put MUSES01 and NOT MUSES02. Your on your own.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 okay, sure, one more question only, i think i would like to choose warmer one, beacuse sound of 990 is pretty analitic, which one would you say is warmer?
@@h2p_rome 990?
If I have the V3, do I still need to replace the opamp for the headphone hiss? My dac is on the way here..
I think this was about deleting the caps but hell I dont know listen to it.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 its for a xmas gift but thanks
@@GeorgeWPush I've never had the v3, why did you pick this DAC?
@@ranbymonkeys2384 The features.. I need opt/bt/usb inputs, preamp out, and headphone amp.. Why?
@@GeorgeWPush They pretty much all have that now days, just saying because the 196,000 sample rate is getting pretty old especially if you plan on having it for a while. How much did you pay for it?
My dac has 1000 uf 25 v and i plan to replace with 3300 uf 25v anyone has any input on this
I do, You can but they probably won't fit.
Thank you so much. I think they fit as i checked the diameter spacing and they were the same i think
@@jupitalynho2303 Make sure you check the height. I don't think I've ever seen a 3300uF less than .5 diameter.
Any idea on LPS. Would replacing the caps with higher ones mess with voltage?my LPS has 14 caps. 1800 uf and 3000 uf. But i plan to replace caps with 3300 uf. They fit but idk if it will mess with voltage or not.thank you
@@jupitalynho2303 As long as the voltage is the same with the replacement caps, also the smallest I found was 1/2 x 1 1/8'' for 3300uF.
I'm selling mine if anybody is interested.
wow im about to get this and im like what I have to do a mod now?
Newer version is probably not like this one I would imagine.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 i found another one that says v3 on the pic
@@jedunboxing4127 see if you can find out the difference between version 1 and 3
You cant fool with that kind of comment,you just commented on your self